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[ILoveBish]

Without even getting into specifics as to what you want to run, if you are almost completely happy with your current set up and can wait for the new stuff, you should just wait.

If you're 99.9% content, why bother upgrading? Save the money. Don't upgrade for the sake of upgrading if you don't actually need the higher performance.

Alright, i'll go ahead and put the breaks on the upgrade. Thanks.

Is there word yet on Skylake performance?

 

[Femmeworth]

Not as good as the 212 Evo, according to Frostytech. The 212 Evo got a delta-T of 15.9 degrees on high fan speeds, while the CNPS9700 did worse at 19 degrees. There's nothing I can think of that will strongly outperform the 212 Evo at $50.

If you could spend a bit more, there's the excellent Phanteks PH-TC14PE for about $60 after rebate, a 140mm air cooler that performs in between the more expensive Noctua NH-D14 and NH-D15 coolers.

Thanks. I might compromise if I can get one that will be easier to install.

 

[RyuHei]

Okay, I think it's time to stop ignoring my CPU cooling situation. Not looking to spend more than $50 and I need one that is more foolproof than the Hyper 212 Evo. Any recommendations?

How's this one?

How about cryorig h5? Seems great especially with a second fan.

 

[Muffin Awesome]

In that case, go with this EVGA 750 watt model, it's actually good quality (manufactured by Super Flower) and has a very good review by Jonny Guru. It'll bring the parts list up to 225 Euros, though.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Motherboard: ASRock H97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (€79.85 @ Amazon Italia)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (€72.38 @ Amazon Italia)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (€73.62 @ Amazon Italia)
Total: €225.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-08 03:07 CET+0100



Not as good as the 212 Evo, according to Frostytech. The 212 Evo got a delta-T of 15.9 degrees on high fan speeds, while the CNPS9700 did worse at 19 degrees. There's nothing I can think of that will strongly outperform the 212 Evo at $50.

If you could spend a bit more, there's the excellent Phanteks PH-TC14PE for about $60 after rebate, a 140mm air cooler that performs in between the more expensive Noctua NH-D14 and NH-D15 coolers.



The NH-L9i is woefully inadequate for overclocking. Tom's Hardware's review actually had it perform 0.3 degrees better than the stock intel cooler at maximum speed, and worse when the NH-L9i and stock intel cooler were both set at 1500RPM. It did better when OverclockersClub tested it, but it's still not worth considering for overclocking.

The best you can hope for is the Cooler Master TX3 for around $20, it may be able to handle an overclock in the lower 4GHz range.



If you're 99.9% content, why bother upgrading? Save the money. Don't upgrade for the sake of upgrading if you don't actually need the higher performance.

Sorry for the huge quote I am on my mobile.

I guess I am looking for the best aftermarket cooler that will allow for a safe small overclock that won't require me to move the mobo for installation. This may be a fallacy and that's okay, just don't knownif this exists. Thanks again.

 

[RGM79]

Alright, i'll go ahead and put the breaks on the upgrade. Thanks.

Is there word yet on Skylake performance?

Nothing yet about the actual performance.

Thanks. I might compromise if I can get one that will be easier to install.

How about cryorig h5? Seems great especially with a second fan.

Oh, the H5 and H7 look very interesting. Definitely looks easier to install. I might just start recommending those to people.

Edit: Made some wrong assumptions about the fan clips. Nevermind.

Sorry for the huge quote I am on my mobile.

I guess I am looking for the best aftermarket cooler that will allow for a safe small overclock that won't require me to move the mobo for installation. This may be a fallacy and that's okay, just don't knownif this exists. Thanks again.

The Cooler Master TX3 has push pins just like the stock Intel cooler. It should handle light to moderate overclocking, just be wary of load temperatures with games, not CPU stress testing programs.

 

[Muffin Awesome]

The Cooler Master TX3 has push pins just like the stock Intel cooler. It should handle light to moderate overclocking, just be wary of load temperatures with games, not CPU stress testing programs.[/QUOTE]

Have you had any experience with Zalman?

I was researching this one:

ZALMAN CNPS7X

Take or leave the LEDs, but the performance tests I read in a review seemed to perform slightly better than the tx3.

 

[CreepingFear]

So I got my first high-end GPU today. An XFX R9 270X. And boy, is it niiiiiiice.

Congratulations! Hopefully the first of many to come for you.

 

[RGM79]

How are EVGA psus? I See the EVGA New Version SuperNOVA 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified 750W on newegg for 45 after rebate, is it worth getting to go modular?

I usually recommend the newer B2 version, which currently costs $60 after rebate. The older B1 model seems decent, but there are no professional reviews except for the HiTechLegion review.

As far as I know, the B1 model was made by FSP group and their reputation for anything less than silver rated efficiency seems to be sorta so-so, going by this review chart. The Newegg reviews seem to indicate that there's poor quality control with the power supply fan which keeps failing.

If you're on a budget and you need high wattage, it's alright I guess, but there are better choices if you're willing to spend more.

Have you had any experience with Zalman?

I was researching this one: ZALMAN CNPS7X

Take or leave the LEDs, but the performance tests I read in a review seemed to perform slightly better than the tx3.

As far as I know, Zalman has a good reputation for heatsink coolers, but I'm not really familiar with any specific models. If it looks good to you, go for it. It's a little more involved than the TX3 because it requires a frame to be installed, but you still don't need a backplate, at least.

 

[Muffin Awesome]

As far as I know, Zalman has a good reputation for heatsink coolers, but I'm not really familiar with any specific models. If it looks good to you, go for it. It's a little more involved than the TX3 because it requires a frame to be installed, but you still don't need a backplate, at least.

Sorry I know it may seem silly to avoid the better quality, but I just don't trust myself disassembling the mobo to install this, I am hoping I will be able to install this by laying my case on its side and performing it. Thanks again.

 

[REMAINSILLY]

Congratulations! Hopefully the first of many to come for you.

>mfw my FPS went above 80

 

[Cimarron]

This monitor is in sale at Pax East fir $450. Is this a good deal? http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=12156

 

[drotahorror]

Can someone recommend me a (crappy rubber dome) keyboard? Need one with multimedia keys. $50-$80.

Thanks.

 

[RGM79]

Can someone recommend me a (crappy rubber dome) keyboard? Need one with multimedia keys. $50-$80.

Thanks.

Well, $50~80 is a lot to spend on a rubber dome keyboard. Is there anything else specific you wanted or will anything do?

Here's a Cooler Master keyboard and mouse set for $18 after $10 discount code. Cheap as hell, comes with media keys (includes forward and backward keys), LED backlight keys, and a mouse as well.

For something a bit more reserved, there's this plain-looking Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse combo for $21. The media keys don't include forward and backward, but it has some extra shortcut keys for web browser, power, etc. As far as I can tell, the Logitech keyboard isn't sold separately.

 

[Femmeworth]

How about cryorig h5? Seems great especially with a second fan.

Interesting. The lack of customer reviews makes me hesitant though. Not sure I want to be a guinea pig.

 

[veloxStrix]

How is the 970? Is one good enough to keep most games in 60fps range at 1080p? Or should I go SLI?

 

[Deleted member 17706]

970 is definitely good enough for 1080p gaming, I'd say.

My advice would also be to never go SLI unless you've got money to burn and already bought the best single card available. It's not worth the headaches of which there will be many.

 

[longdi]

Interesting. The lack of customer reviews makes me hesitant though. Not sure I want to be a guinea pig.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYEEOMO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Or the TR True Spirit Power.
I was using this on my 3930K at 4.5Ghz. Good and quiet, competitive/beats the more expensive Noctua U14S
But it is 171mm tall, so make sure your casing have enough space to close the side panel.

There is a "smaller" version at 165mm tall, 6mm heatpipes, and comes at an offset angle so you can clear your first PCIE slot
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O6AEQNW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Btw these come with screw on installation, a piece of cake...well except having to deal with their fan clips...my advice is to attached the fan clips to the heatsink without the fan, mount heatsink to the moherboard than clip on the fan.

 

[RedSwirl]

I can't get surround sound in any games.

The only thing I can tell you about whatever sound card I might have is that my motherboard is an Asus Z87. I don't know if that comes with any kind of sound card or whatever, but it does have an optical output.

I've been able to get 5.1 and DTS to work for movies (specifically Media Player Classic) but not any games that supposedly have it. All the games I've been able to try are supposedly games that automatically detect what sound Windows is set to, and in the control panel I have it set to "Digital Audio (S/PDIF) through the optical jack. I can't configure it.

 

[longdi]

I can't get surround sound in any games.

The only thing I can tell you about whatever sound card I might have is that my motherboard is an Asus Z87. I don't know if that comes with any kind of sound card or whatever, but it does have an optical output.

I've been able to get 5.1 and DTS to work for movies (specifically Media Player Classic) but not any games that supposedly have it. All the games I've been able to try are supposedly games that automatically detect what sound Windows is set to, and in the control panel I have it set to "Digital Audio (S/PDIF) through the optical jack. I can't configure it.

If you use optical cable, then you need to manually turn on DTS connect in Asus audio panel (your board does not seem to have DTS connect). You can try this thread to see if the hacked driver will work http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/t...olby-digital-live-and-dts-interactive.193148/


Else you need to go old fashion and connect multiple RCA cables. Optical out dont have enough bandwidth to transport 5.1 audio via single cable, hence DTS connect compression is needed.

Alternatively you can use HDMI out from your graphics card. Though i understanding you be sending audio and video to your receiver this way.

 

[drotahorror]

Well, $50~80 is a lot to spend on a rubber dome keyboard. Is there anything else specific you wanted or will anything do?

Here's a Cooler Master keyboard and mouse set for $18 after $10 discount code. Cheap as hell, comes with media keys (includes forward and backward keys), LED backlight keys, and a mouse as well.

Thanks, gonna nab that cooler master. I'm on an original G15 logitech keyboard atm.

 

[RedSwirl]

If you use optical cable, then you need to manually turn on DTS connect in Asus audio panel (your board does not seem to have DTS connect). You can try this thread to see if the hacked driver will work http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/t...olby-digital-live-and-dts-interactive.193148/


Else you need to go old fashion and connect multiple RCA cables. Optical out dont have enough bandwidth to transport 5.1 audio via single cable, hence DTS connect compression is needed.

Alternatively you can use HDMI out from your graphics card. Though i understanding you be sending audio and video to your receiver this way.

How is it that I can still get DTS to work for videos, but not games?

Also, I had to download and install Realtek HD Audio separately. The system didn't come with it and it still doesn't even show up in the control panel. Also, when I use the Realtek audio manager, I can't hear any of the test sounds it has.

Edit: It says "DTS Connect" and "DTS UltraPC II" on the box for the motherboard. It's a Z87-Plus to be precise.

Actually, looking at the box now, there's a lot of shit on here I've never bothered to check out at all. I'm guessing a lot of it is in the BIOS?

 

[no maam]

My 212 is coming in HOPEFULLY by weds. What overclock should I do? 2500k.

 

[longdi]

How is it that I can still get DTS to work for videos, but not games?

Also, I had to download and install Realtek HD Audio separately. The system didn't come with it and it still doesn't even show up in the control panel. Also, when I use the Realtek audio manager, I can't hear any of the test sounds it has.

Edit: It says "DTS Connect" and "DTS UltraPC II" on the box for the motherboard.

Then you are good to go! There should be a DTS connect tab. You should have selected Digtal out as the default device, and under the default format tab, select DTS Interactive.

Try downloading the drivers from Asus website for your model if the generic Realtek drivers dont show these tabs.

Most modern sound solution is not auto switching sadly, unlike my old Omega soundcard. So you need to manually select digtal out, which still plays audio through your analog speaker/headphones. Not sure if that is due to hardware or Win7/8 limitation.

DTS work for video because it is already recorded as compressed data on the disc. With DTS Interactive, it compresses your multi channel source in realtime and send to your reciever.

 

[RedSwirl]

Then you are good to go! There should be a DTS connect tab. You should have selected Digtal out as the default device, and under the default format tab, select DTS Interactive.

Try downloading the drivers from Asus website for your model if the generic Realtek drivers dont show these tabs.

Most modern sound solution is not auto switching sadly, unlike my old Omega soundcard. So you need to manually select digtal out, which still plays audio through your analog speaker/headphones. Not sure if that is due to hardware or Win7/8 limitation.

DTS work for video because it is already recorded as compressed data on the disc. With DTS Interactive, it compresses your multi channel source in realtime and send to your reciever.

I tried a couple different games after separately installing the Realtek software, and I think what it's doing now is pushing the 5.1 (or 7.1) sound all through two speakers. It sounds distinctly different, like all the sound is supposed to be in a large room or something, but it's still only coming through two speakers.

 

[RGM79]

My 212 is coming in HOPEFULLY by weds. What overclock should I do? 2500k.

Using the information here, and going by these results, try for 4.5GHz.

 

[longdi]

You should be getting something like this in your audio control panel.

If not, need to install the driver from Asus website because DTS connect is licensed software, so generic realtek drivers may not enable this function.

 

[no maam]

Using the information here, and going by these results, try for 4.5GHz.

Thanks buddy! I appreciate all your info! I'm pissed though. BF4 runs AMAZING in ultra with my newly purchased 980. Yet........ Borderlands 2 (the reason why I upgraded my card) still has the same stutters, and does not run how I feel it should. Least I know it's not my card.

 

[RedSwirl]

You should be getting something like this in your audio control panel.

If not, need to install the driver from Asus website because DTS connect is licensed software, so generic realtek drivers may not enable this function.

I just installed the driver from Asus and I still get nothing like that. It looks like this:

And that's just on the taskbar. What's in the control panel is the standard Windows sound configuration.

 

[longdi]

You need to click digital output and click set default device. The DTS options should appear now. Then go to default format tab and select DTS Interactive from the drop down menu.

I wont bother about windows control panel.

 

[Frankfurter]

Thanks buddy! I appreciate all your info! I'm pissed though. BF4 runs AMAZING in ultra with my newly purchased 980. Yet........ Borderlands 2 (the reason why I upgraded my card) still has the same stutters, and does not run how I feel it should. Least I know it's not my card.

Are you running any special settings in Borderlands 2? I haven't played it in quite a while, but I remember running it on some old Core 2 Duo and a HD7870 just fine.

 

[MedIC86]

So im contemplating to upgrade my pc, but i have two questions that i hope someone can help me with:

- Is there any indication around when nvidia will come with new cards this year?
- Around what time will Windows 10 be released?

Thanks

 

[asdad123]

So Im switching to an ITX case. I have my new motherboard (EVGA Stinger z87) and CPU coming in this week (4770k). What is the smallest case/CPU cooler combo to get? I currently have a Hyper 212 in my current 200R, but I don't mind buying a different CPU cooler if it means a smaller case.

No graphics card at the moment, but I will get one when the next gen of cards comes out.


Also, anyone in NJ interested in a G3258/MSI PC Mate z97/Corsair 200R combo for cheap?

 

[LeeRoyBrown]

How is the 970? Is one good enough to keep most games in 60fps range at 1080p? Or should I go SLI?

What the fuck?

LMAO...

Just about any card over $400AU is enough for gaming @1080p max settings at 60fps.

You'll hit 2k even. And in some games 4k max.

 

[LiquidMetal14]

I could buy 17 of my current keyboards for that price!

I'd love a good mechanical keyboard, but god damn that's expensive.

I got that for 130 ;p

It's definitely "all that".

Thanks buddy! I appreciate all your info! I'm pissed though. BF4 runs AMAZING in ultra with my newly purchased 980. Yet........ Borderlands 2 (the reason why I upgraded my card) still has the same stutters, and does not run how I feel it should. Least I know it's not my card.

Physx tears up the frame rate for me even with SLI and heavily OC'd G1 970's. I'm talking in the realm of dips into the upper forties whereas the frame rate is normally incredibly high.

 

[kennah]

So Im switching to an ITX case. I have my new motherboard (EVGA Stinger z87) and CPU coming in this week (4770k). What is the smallest case/CPU cooler combo to get? I currently have a Hyper 212 in my current 200R, but I don't mind buying a different CPU cooler if it means a smaller case.

No graphics card at the moment, but I will get one when the next gen of cards comes out.


Also, anyone in NJ interested in a G3258/MSI PC Mate z97/Corsair 200R combo for cheap?

What case did you have in mind? Your 212 would fit in a Node. They're wonderful cases, but smaller options exist.

 

[NEO0MJ]

Just helped a friend pick parts for his new PC. Did I do good?

Chassis: Corsair Graphite Series 380T
Motherboard: MSI Z97I GAMING ACK
CPU: Intel i7 4970k
GPU: Gigabyte Nvidia GTX 970 4GB
Ram: 16GB (forgot the brand)
Storage: Crucial SSD 128 GB and WD Black 2TB

 

[Aztechnology]

So im contemplating to upgrade my pc, but i have two questions that i hope someone can help me with:

- Is there any indication around when nvidia will come with new cards this year?
- Around what time will Windows 10 be released?

Thanks

Nvidia already announced their next card, the Titan X (don't be stupid and buy this if you're gaming in 1080p... actually it's not even a card for gamers, it's for devs). As for the TI models of the 970/980 it's possible, but honestly don't wait around. The cards keep their value fairly well, a few months before the 900 series came out I bought two 770's. Later I decided I wanted a single card solution due to various issues I was having, I actually managed to get about 90% of my money back for the two cards by selling them on Amazon. So it was like renting at that point. Also consider I have a 970 that easily runs everything I throw at it at in the 60fps range, many games I'm even able to downsampling at higher resolution and keep a great framerate. What I'm saying is unless you're planning to play in 4k@60fps this year, you'll be just fine with any of nvidia 900 series offerings.

 

[JMTHEFOX]

I bought the parts RGM79 suggested to me.

Crossing fingers for NCIX US to be decent.

 

[The Teachinator]

So Im switching to an ITX case. I have my new motherboard (EVGA Stinger z87) and CPU coming in this week (4770k). What is the smallest case/CPU cooler combo to get? I currently have a Hyper 212 in my current 200R, but I don't mind buying a different CPU cooler if it means a smaller case.

No graphics card at the moment, but I will get one when the next gen of cards comes out.


Also, anyone in NJ interested in a G3258/MSI PC Mate z97/Corsair 200R combo for cheap?

Having converted to a smaller case I'd suggest the Hadron Air. Keep in mind you'll want a video card with a stock cooler to blow air out of the case. Your 212 will fit.

If you want it as silent as possible you'll also want to replace the top case fans but you don't have to.

It also includes a PSU so keep that in mind when looking at its price.

 

[LilJoka]

So Im switching to an ITX case. I have my new motherboard (EVGA Stinger z87) and CPU coming in this week (4770k). What is the smallest case/CPU cooler combo to get? I currently have a Hyper 212 in my current 200R, but I don't mind buying a different CPU cooler if it means a smaller case.

No graphics card at the moment, but I will get one when the next gen of cards comes out.


Also, anyone in NJ interested in a G3258/MSI PC Mate z97/Corsair 200R combo for cheap?

See my Node 304 on the previous page for ideas.

Silverstone RVZ01 can also be considered but needs an SFX PSU and low profile CPU cooler.

 

[abracadaver]

What kind of RAM do you need to buy for an i5 4690K if you plan to overclock?

1866 or faster?

 

[LilJoka]

What kind of RAM do you need to buy for an i5 4690K if you plan to overclock?

1866 or faster?

Its not really relevant as the RAM speed is not tied to the overclock of the CPU due to having an unclocked multiplier. Just buy what ram is best value, 1600 CAS 9 or 1866 CAS 10.

 

[no maam]

Are you running any special settings in Borderlands 2? I haven't played it in quite a while, but I remember running it on some old Core 2 Duo and a HD7870 just fine.

When I use the GeForce optimization it sets everything on the highest settings and even enables dsr(I don't think it works and just have it set to 1080). Yet when I play the game, even with vsync, I'll get drops, or stutters, not sure the term. It's just not a completely smooth experience. I played around with capped 60 and unlimited, it's all the same though. I used to think it was my Gpu, now I think it's my cpu. I mean the game doesn't run horribly, but it's not a solid steady framerate I'm expecting. I tried lowering, and even shutting off phys x and it's pretty much all the same. However, I can say I have got rid of the nasty screen tears I was having with that game. I almost returned my Gpu because of it, then I saw how bf4 ran. Long rant, but I'm gonna try overclocking my CPU when the new cooler comes in, if that doesn't do the job I'm just gonna give up with that game.

 

[AngmarsKing701]

Not sure where to put this question, because it involves a dilemma that really spans three different threads. But I'll start here.

The situation: I have an Asus N53S laptop, which is about to hit 3 years old (April 2012 purchase). It's a decent laptop, 1080p 15.6in screen, nVidia GT 630M (2GB), an i7 processor and 6GB of RAM.

For the most part, it is doing what I want/need it to do.

What I use it for: mostly writing, bill paying, a bit of surfing (a do a ton of my surfing on my N7) and of course playing games. The game playing has tailed off a bit over the past year or so, but I'd really like to get back into it. I also have an Xbox One, a 360 and a PS3. My gaming backlog is ... large. I haven't done any specific measurements in terms of FPS, but i use Can I Run It? to check whether new games coming out can run on this thing, and in many cases i at least meet the minimum requirements.

I will say that I do not make much use of the mobility of the laptop. It essentially stays in my office and I use the tablet or my phone when I go mobile.

So you might say, what's the problem?

The dilemma: I fully anticipate needing to upgrade in the next year or so. However, I see three paths before me.

1. Go with something like the Alienware Alpha (i5 version), add a decent 24" monitor and some speakers. I like that the Alpha runs Windows and the small form factor is attractive. I could also, in a pinch, connect it to my 55" HDTV to really blow things away (if my kids weren't always on there playing games). Something like this would collectively cost me in the $800-$900 range.

2. Step up to a full-fledged gaming laptop, something like the MSI or the Sager that are so frequently recommended. I *might* make use of the mobility a little more, but probably not. (I am also considering a Shield Tablet, so the laptop notion doesn't necessarily fit.) This would also be a pricier option, as I would want to push the limits a bit and go in the $1500 range for something that blow me out of the water.

3. Go with building my own PC (yes I know what thread I chose to put this in). I have a friend who basically builds PCs for a living, and he's offered to help me pick out what I would need and to put it together. Which is excellent, because regardless of the number of people who say it's easy, I'm all thumbs at stuff like this. In this instance, I would need the PC build parts, the monitor, the speakers. Again I'd be looking to build in a way that keeps me in the game for a couple years. The great thing about this is the upgradeability option of it. I'd maybe look to start around $1,000 max.


So what say you, GAF? I have about $400 saved up now and really can put close to $100 away per month, and like I said I think the laptop I have can handle most of what I want for maybe another year (or maybe by Christmas I'll be looking for the upgrade). I could see myself having the $1,000 by the holidays.

Well, I didn't get an answer to this, and I guess I'm not surprised, because it's super long.

So let's assume that by the end of the year I work with my friend to build a new PC.

Should I go ahead and buy a monitor and keyboard now, and just drive them from my existing laptop? Or just wait and buy everything at the same time?

 

[opticalmace]

Well, I didn't get an answer to this, and I guess I'm not surprised, because it's super long.

So let's assume that by the end of the year I work with my friend to build a new PC.

Should I go ahead and buy a monitor and keyboard now, and just drive them from my existing laptop? Or just wait and buy everything at the same time?

I would just wait and buy it all at once later.

 

[no maam]

Build your own pc. Have your friend help you. I wouldn't bother with a monitor yet, or anything until you have enough money to buy the whole thing. New CPUs will be out hopefully this year, windows 10, maybe ddr4 will get cheaper. Just keep waiting till you have enough and then buy everything at once. Well that's what I would do.

 

[Servbot24]

My current computer is getting really slow and unreliable, I need to look into an overhaul. Haven't upgraded in 5 years. However I don't know much about specs and what would be required. Here's what I do:

Photoshop (multiple 2GB+ files open at once)
Maya
ZBrush
Unity
Ableton
Reason
General stuff (iTunes, Safari, Notepad etc)
I don't do a ton of PC gaming but it would be nice to have that option

I don't usually have this all open at once, but if I'm going to invest in an upgrade I want something that has that capability.

Any ideas of the specs I should shoot for?

 

[ricki42]

Sorry I know it may seem silly to avoid the better quality, but I just don't trust myself disassembling the mobo to install this, I am hoping I will be able to install this by laying my case on its side and performing it. Thanks again.

What case do you have? Some cases have a cutout in the motherboard tray so you can mount a cooler backplate without removing the motherboard.

 

[AngmarsKing701]

I would just wait and buy it all at once later.

Build your own pc. Have your friend help you. I wouldn't bother with a monitor yet, or anything until you have enough money to buy the whole thing. New CPUs will be out hopefully this year, windows 10, maybe ddr4 will get cheaper. Just keep waiting till you have enough and then buy everything at once. Well that's what I would do.

Thanks! A little bit painful, as I like shiny new things, but I'll hold off and keep saving.

 

[no maam]

Thanks! A little bit painful, as I like shiny new things, but I'll hold off and keep saving.

Maybe a case, power supply, fans, hard drives, cd drive. I mean if you find great deals on those while saving up, I would get them.. Cpu,gpu,mobo,ram.. Get those at the same time.