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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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RGM79

Member
Hi guys! I'm thinking about building a computer for my girlfriend. She will be using it for Photoshop, web browsing, and some gaming. Mainly Bethesda titles, and Dragon Age Inquisition. She said she would like to run PCSX2 as well, but I'm not sure that will be doable? It will be going in the living room, because she will be using the big-screen TV as her monitor. How is this build? We're on a pretty strict budget. Any tweaks you would make?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/FrFqJx

I'd go for different parts. You didn't say what your budget was, so I stuck to the same $550 after rebate cost as your build. Here's what I recommend:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($177.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H81M-HD3 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($48.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series:DT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280 3GB Dual-X Video Card ($151.00 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($43.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $557.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-12 00:46 EDT-0400

1. I removed the cooler. As you won't be overclocking, the stock cooler should be alright, although maybe loud. Besides, a better CPU cooler is always something you can add in the future, but being able to take the cost of that and spend it on a slightly better graphics card/PSU now will matter more in the longer run when it comes to the longevity of the PC
2. The motherboard I chose supports frontal USB 3.0, which is nice to have. Otherwise there's not a lot of differences between the Gigabyte and ASRock motherboard.
3. Non-overclocking socket 1150 motherboards don't really support high speed RAM, it will be forced to run at lower speeds. You might as well save some money and just get decent 1600MHz RAM instead.
4. The Toshiba hard drive is just a few dollars less and is virtually the same as the WD Blue. You could go with the WD Blue instead if it's more available.
5. I was able to find a cheap yet decent R9 280 which is stronger than the R9 270. It should perform better for games.
6. I changed the Thermaltake cube case for the cheaper tower style Cooler Master N200. If you prefer the Thermaltake case for the looks and form factor, then it's fine to add it back.
7. Spending a bit more on the power supply will benefit you more in the long run. In the future, 450 watts will limit what kinds of upgrades you may be able to do for this PC. For $13 more, getting a 550 watt power supply is better idea. Rosewill's Capstone power supplies are rebadged Super Flower models, and are fairly high quality.
 

Vitor711

Member
So here's what I'm looking at:

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/tvrnqs
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/tvrnqs/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($113.29 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($108.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Video Card ($559.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($86.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1261.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-12 01:03 EDT-0400


Anything I can do to get that price down? I mean, outside of getting a free copy of The Witcher and Batman which I was going to buy anyway. Also, how reliable is SuperBlitz? I've heard of Newegg, Amazon (duh) but haven't come across these guys before.For the most expensive items (i.e. the 980/CPU), I'd rather go with someone who's reliable and fast in terms of returns, just in case.

Also, I may need to move to the EU this year, I'm guessing this would all work fine there as long as the power supply can handle a different voltage, right?
 
Hi guys! I'm thinking about building a computer for my girlfriend. She will be using it for Photoshop, web browsing, and some gaming. Mainly Bethesda titles, and Dragon Age Inquisition. She said she would like to run PCSX2 as well, but I'm not sure that will be doable? It will be going in the living room, because she will be using the big-screen TV as her monitor. How is this build? We're on a pretty strict budget. Any tweaks you would make?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/FrFqJx

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H81M-HD3 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team Elite Plus 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($47.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series:DT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280 3GB Dual-X Video Card ($151.00 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H21 ATX Mid Tower Case ($32.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($38.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $556.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-12 01:11 EDT-0400

I sacrificed the CPU cooler for a better CPU, which is also not overclockable so you don't need the cooler anyway.
The toshiba drive is cheaper, but with same same quality.
I go with a 1 stick RAM, so you can upgrade later if you want, the diff is not that significant.
The 280 3GB should be much better, and longer life.
PSU is more powerful with decent reviews.
I just try to pick a cheaper case to offset the cost of other more expensive parts.

Edit: beaten by RGM by a mile. Should have refreshed. But this is another build you can consider nonetheless.
 

lem0n

Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H81M-HD3 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team Elite Plus 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($47.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series:DT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280 3GB Dual-X Video Card ($151.00 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H21 ATX Mid Tower Case ($32.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($38.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $556.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-12 01:11 EDT-0400

I sacrificed the CPU cooler for a better CPU, which is also not overclockable so you don't need the cooler anyway.
The toshiba drive is cheaper, but with same same quality.
I go with a 1 stick RAM, so you can upgrade later if you want, the diff is not that significant.
The 280 3GB should be much better, and longer life.
PSU is more powerful with decent reviews.
I just try to pick a cheaper case to offset the cost of other more expensive parts.

Edit: beaten by RGM by a mile. Should have refreshed. But this is another build you can consider nonetheless.

I'd go for different parts. You didn't say what your budget was, so I stuck to the same $550 after rebate cost as your build. Here's what I recommend:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($177.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H81M-HD3 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($48.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series:DT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280 3GB Dual-X Video Card ($151.00 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($43.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $557.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-12 00:46 EDT-0400

1. I removed the cooler. As you won't be overclocking, the stock cooler should be alright, although maybe loud. Besides, a better CPU cooler is always something you can add in the future, but being able to take the cost of that and spend it on a slightly better graphics card/PSU now will matter more in the longer run when it comes to the longevity of the PC
2. The motherboard I chose supports frontal USB 3.0, which is nice to have. Otherwise there's not a lot of differences between the Gigabyte and ASRock motherboard.
3. Non-overclocking socket 1150 motherboards don't really support high speed RAM, it will be forced to run at lower speeds. You might as well save some money and just get decent 1600MHz RAM instead.
4. The Toshiba hard drive is just a few dollars less and is virtually the same as the WD Blue. You could go with the WD Blue instead if it's more available.
5. I was able to find a cheap yet decent R9 280 which is stronger than the R9 270. It should perform better for games.
6. I changed the Thermaltake cube case for the cheaper tower style Cooler Master N200. If you prefer the Thermaltake case for the looks and form factor, then it's fine to add it back.
7. Spending a bit more on the power supply will benefit you more in the long run. In the future, 450 watts will limit what kinds of upgrades you may be able to do for this PC. For $13 more, getting a 550 watt power supply is better idea. Rosewill's Capstone power supplies are rebadged Super Flower models, and are fairly high quality.

Man, you guys rock! Thanks for the input, and taking time to put together a build for me. I will definitely make those changes on my build sheet.
 

RGM79

Member
So here's what I'm looking at:

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/tvrnqs
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/tvrnqs/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($113.29 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($108.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Video Card ($559.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($86.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1261.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-12 01:03 EDT-0400


Anything I can do to get that price down? I mean, outside of getting a free copy of The Witcher and Batman which I was going to buy anyway. Also, how reliable is SuperBlitz? I've heard of Newegg, Amazon (duh) but haven't come across these guys before.For the most expensive items (i.e. the 980/CPU), I'd rather go with someone who's reliable and fast in terms of returns, just in case.

Also, I may need to move to the EU this year, I'm guessing this would all work fine there as long as the power supply can handle a different voltage, right?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series:DT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($516.49 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1224.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-12 01:24 EDT-0400

There, that build saves you money and includes a case. Unless you already have a case, in which case you can lower costs by another $48. If you do take it to Europe, all you need is a replacement power cord to fit the outlet or a plug adaptor. That power supply as well as almost every model accepts 115-240 VAC, so no need for voltage converters. I also made a bunch of other changes like the graphics card, RAM, and SSD. There were newer/better models available at lower prices.

Superbiiz should be alright, but I haven't personally ordered from them there. If that's an issue, then you can order from any of the alternatives listed on the product page. For example, Microcenter offers the processor for $200 if you can purchase it in-store, and Best Buy offers the processor with free shipping for about $233. I believe both retailers will allow you to return online orders at any physical retail branch. It's worth saying that if you are able to buy from a local Microcenter branch, they offer the i5 4690K and the ASRock Z97 Pro4 motherboard for $250.

Edit: beaten by RGM by a mile. Should have refreshed. But this is another build you can consider nonetheless.
Our builds are actually pretty similar. If nothing else, it's nice to see we had the same ideas in mind for trying to maximize performance under the same budget.
 

Engell

Member
Samsung Magician, with the 840 evo I had faster speeds or speeds closer to the up to part.

The speed test in Samsung Magician is not that super reliable, as mentioned use crystal diskmark or something like that, if you have 8-16Gb+ RAM you could also try enabling RAPID mode where it uses the RAM as Cache for the SSD. When this is enabled you can forget about benchmarking as you will just get your RAM speed, you have to get out a stopwatch and time different programs to see if this helps you.
(It makes my computer alot faster)

btw they fixed the 840 EVO with new firmware(maybe, time will tell, looks like its working so far)
 
Our builds are actually pretty similar. If nothing else, it's nice to see we had the same ideas in mind for trying to maximize performance under the same budget.

Yes, indeed. The reason I said another build in my post is that I was confused due to having so many tabs, which made me think I picked the 960 4GBs instead of the 280 3GBs.

Early morning is not really my thing.
 
Man, you guys rock! Thanks for the input, and taking time to put together a build for me. I will definitely make those changes on my build sheet.

Both your build and the two suggested didn't include an SSD. An SSD is the single most important component to a modern PC and will give you a bigger benefit in day to say computing than any other component upgrade. You'll have to either rework your build our budget to include one or reconfigure some parts. You could always start with a small SSD and then add a large HDD for game installations later.
 
Both your build and the two suggested didn't include an SSD. An SSD is the single most important component to a modern PC and will give you a bigger benefit in day to say computing than any other component upgrade. You'll have to either rework your build our budget to include one or reconfigure some parts. You could always start with a small SSD and then add a large HDD for game installations later.

Well, an SSD will significantly reduce load times for various things from the OS to games.
But that is about it, shorter load times and maybe less pop-in in open world games and snappier feeling.

I assume your use of the word "computing" means using the computer, because if you mean compute as in calculating, compiling, rendering, etc. then I have to strongly disagree. All the SSD does is loading the assets and that is it.

Is it important? Sure. Is it the single most important component? Absolutely not. It is more of a luxury rather than a necessity.
 

RGM79

Member
Both your build and the two suggested didn't include an SSD. An SSD is the single most important component to a modern PC and will give you a bigger benefit in day to say computing than any other component upgrade. You'll have to either rework your build our budget to include one or reconfigure some parts. You could always start with a small SSD and then add a large HDD for game installations later.

I've always seen solid state drives as more of a quality of life thing than something absolutely needed. It offers faster loading and improved feeling of responsiveness, but does not actually improve processing power or game framerate unlike spending the money on a better graphics card, for example. I felt the budget was too thin to consider recommending an SSD.

It does have its benefits and would make the living room PC feel snappier, so if they could go without the 1TB hard drive, for a few dollars more he could substitute in a 128GB SSD.
 

lem0n

Member
Both your build and the two suggested didn't include an SSD. An SSD is the single most important component to a modern PC and will give you a bigger benefit in day to say computing than any other component upgrade. You'll have to either rework your build our budget to include one or reconfigure some parts. You could always start with a small SSD and then add a large HDD for game installations later.
For what my girl is going to be doing with this PC, it doesn't really make much of a difference. She couldn't care less about boot times or pop-in. She just wants a machine that can run DA:I and Photoshop.
 

danthefan

Member
I use this guide whenever i reinstall windows 7 on my SSD.

Sean's Windows 7 Install & Optimization Guide for SSDs & HDDs
http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds

windows 8
http://www.overclock.net/t/1240779/seans-windows-8-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds


very useful, shrinking pagefiles, removing hibernation files, shrinking windows restore, etc. i never use hibernation so i removed it using that guide and it gave me a couple GBs no problem.

Great, thanks.
 
Putting together a bootable USB for Windows 8.1 via my Macbook was a complete nightmare. No matter what I did with the script via Terminal, I could only get as far as to let me create one for Windows 7.

Ended up having to dig out a Asus Notebook that can't charge its battery so I could go through a Windows OS device.

With the OS and drivers set up, I'm clear to get this thing up today after I finally get some sleep.
 

T.O.P

Banned
Hey, as i'm about to install the new GPU, i'm reading that people suggest to use CC cleaner togher with DDU since AMD drivers can still be in the system, is this correct?
 

Valravn

Member
I have a maximus hero vi mb. But when i try to boot with an usb drive, the bios freezes. It happens with all the other usb ports except once usb 2.0 port. The port at the right of the cmos reset button.
21.jpg


Its not a problem but i always wondered; why does the bios freeze? A chipset bug? Bios bug (i have the latest version)? I have usb 3.0 but cant use it for installing an OS. :(
I tried different usb initialization settings, but nothing works.
 
N

Noray

Unconfirmed Member
I don't need a new PC, but I am looking for an affordable tablet with a screen (this is key) that is usable outdoors, in direct sunlight. Mainly for reading comic books. Anyone have any suggestions?
 

LilJoka

Member
I have a maximus hero vi mb. But when i try to boot with an usb drive, the bios freezes. It happens with all the other usb ports except once usb 2.0 port. The port at the right of the cmos reset button.
21.jpg


Its not a problem but i always wondered; why is this? A chipset bug? Bios bug (i have the latest version)? I have usb 3.0 but cant use it for installing an OS. :(

You cant use USB 3.0 to install an OS afaik, it doesnt have native drivers.
 

Valravn

Member
You cant use USB 3.0 to install an OS afaik, it doesnt have native drivers.

Ah that explains it a bit. Its also happens with usb 2.0 drives though, booting will only work with that one port. Edt: its the usb flashback port. Just looked it up in the manual.
 

BeEatNU

WORLDSTAAAAAAR
Selling one of my Titan X for $825 shipped via FedEx next day. I'll split PayPal fees. Works perfectly and comes complete with its fancy box. Lol. Only selling it for a part for my raptor. Lol. Message me if interested
 

T.O.P

Banned
My PC is DEAD yayyyyyyyyy

Erased the drivers, changed the gpu

PC won't start

I takef off the new card, tried to boot it, nothing

Just brought the pc to the assistance where i went last time, dude tries to start the power supply with a metal thingy and it starts...now he thinks the motherboard is gone


I'm at a loss for words


FML
 

LilJoka

Member
On that motherboard specifically or in general?

My UP7 only has 3.0 and that's how I installed Windows... and Ubuntu on my secondary drive.

Seems im bit out of date lol. Windows 8 onwards has the drivers and likely Ubuntu.

My PC is DEAD yayyyyyyyyy

Erased the drivers, changed the gpu

PC won't start

I takef off the new card, tried to boot it, nothing

Just brought the pc to the assistance where i went last time, dude tries to start the power supply with a metal thingy and it starts...now he thinks the motherboard is gone


I'm at a loss for words

FML

Check the power switch header.
You can always short out the power switch pins with a screwdriver to bypass the case switch too.
 

Godan

Member
So going to get rid of my 780 and buy this 980.

With this if a 980 Ti comes out in the next 3 months then I can use the EVGA step up program on my 980 and get the Ti.

Anyone on here used the EVGA step up thing before? Is it a long procedure?
 

harz-marz

Member
Quick question, I have just received my new SSD and GTX 970... Can I install them both at the same time or have I to do them separate?

Hope it's straightforward I've never done this before!
 

Sky Chief

Member
How do I stop the fucking fucking fucking Java installer from always popping up and why will it never fucking install properly the fucking piece of shit? I was absolutely killing it in Project Cars in VR and the fucking installer pops up and totally crashes my game. Fuck Java!!!
 

scogoth

Member
How do I stop the fucking fucking fucking Java installer from always popping up and why will it never fucking install properly the fucking piece of shit? I was absolutely killing it in Project Cars in VR and the fucking installer pops up and totally crashes my game. Fuck Java!!!

Uninstall Java and then it will never ask for updates. If you come across something that requires Java, don't use it and move on with your life.

On that motherboard specifically or in general?

My UP7 only has 3.0 and that's how I installed Windows... and Ubuntu on my secondary drive.

If it's USB3 native from the Intel controller it should be no problem. If the USB3 from another controller there may be issues. Can't remember if that mobo uses addon controllers or not for USB3
 

Vitor711

Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series:DT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($516.49 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1224.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-12 01:24 EDT-0400

There, that build saves you money and includes a case. Unless you already have a case, in which case you can lower costs by another $48. If you do take it to Europe, all you need is a replacement power cord to fit the outlet or a plug adaptor. That power supply as well as almost every model accepts 115-240 VAC, so no need for voltage converters. I also made a bunch of other changes like the graphics card, RAM, and SSD. There were newer/better models available at lower prices.

Superbiiz should be alright, but I haven't personally ordered from them there. If that's an issue, then you can order from any of the alternatives listed on the product page. For example, Microcenter offers the processor for $200 if you can purchase it in-store, and Best Buy offers the processor with free shipping for about $233. I believe both retailers will allow you to return online orders at any physical retail branch. It's worth saying that if you are able to buy from a local Microcenter branch, they offer the i5 4690K and the ASRock Z97 Pro4 motherboard for $250.


Our builds are actually pretty similar. If nothing else, it's nice to see we had the same ideas in mind for trying to maximize performance under the same budget.

Oh, thanks so much - totally forgot about the case! I have a keyboard, mouse and monitor but that's it. My Father also works at a university that gets copies of Windows for like $10 so I'm taken care of there as well.

I live in New York so will look into finding a microcenter branch. If not, that build seems perfect.

EDIT: There's a store in Brooklyn. It's like 40 minutes from my work. I guess I can take an extended lunch break and try that - saves me $60 so why not. I'll call ahead and double check that those offers are still valid.
EDIT 2: Damn, NY tax screws me over. The bundle is $285 now. Shame. Might not be worth the extra effort just to save $20. Especially if it'll take me like 2 hours total to grab it and get back to the office.
 

jtkauff

Member
Quick question - I'm looking at getting an SSD for my poor, cobbled-together machine - anyone have any experience/feedback on this Sandisk 128gb SSD ?

Currently MicroCenter has it on sale for $50, and there's a $5 off in-store coupon that I have as well. Money is tight (thanks to my 9-month-old), and I don't get a ton of time to game currently (see aforementioned 9-month-old), but it seems that $45 for a 128gb SSD is a good enough price to fiddle around with and see how it improves things for me. I know that brands like Crucial are preferred, but for a budget-minded, time-limited gamer, would this be acceptable?

For reference, I've lately been playing SWTOR, Elder Scrolls Online, and Shadow of Mordor, and have a rather poor, Frankenstein's monster of a machine with cast-off parts from my brother - AMD Athlon II X4 630, ASUSTeK M4A88TD-V, nVidia GeForce GTX 460 v2, 2x4gb Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600, and a couple of WD Caviar Green drives (5400rpm). Just looking to give it a little bit of a bump to tide me over while I save for a completely new system.
 
Hey, as i'm about to install the new GPU, i'm reading that people suggest to use CC cleaner togher with DDU since AMD drivers can still be in the system, is this correct?

Well, I've uninstalled AMD cards / drivers before and DDU was enough for me, should be good enough with DDU
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
what is a good smallish case that I can use for SLI? Currently have a bitfenix prodigy and with my desk I would prefer something a little slimmer and there is space to go taller. I'd like to be able to transplant as much as possible from my current system too - so the new motherboard would need to support an i5-3470k.

Will my current windows install be screwed? it was a shop-bought PC prebuilt so it would be windows 8 OEM with no key.

also what PSU would I need to give me capacity to add another GTX970 for SLI, or even to provide headroom for future higher end cards in SLI (eg HBM based cards)

Want this to be a one-time sidegrade to allow for future expansion.
 
So I'm looking at upgrading my GPU...well not really upgrading but revamping my situation. I currently have a Gigabyte Windforce G1 GTX 970. Would it be better for me to grab another one or perhaps even upgrade to a Titan X?

If I did get a second GTX 970, I currently have an EVGA Super Nova 650W PSU, would that be enough to run 2?

I should also mention that is is going to be in conjunction with playing at 1440p.
 

Engell

Member
So I'm looking at upgrading my GPU...well not really upgrading but revamping my situation. I currently have a Gigabyte Windforce G1 GTX 970. Would it be better for me to grab another one or perhaps even upgrade to a Titan X?

If I did get a second GTX 970, I currently have an EVGA Super Nova 650W PSU, would that be enough to run 2?

I should also mention that is is going to be in conjunction with playing at 1440p.

sell your 970 and get the 390 or 980ti ;-)

here is a video for you, in the end it differs from game to game... but usually in smaller titles SLI performance will not be optimized(but all titles in the video is AAA)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtlBDKDLOVU
 

Engell

Member
Uh, so should I just get SLI 970 instead of a 980? Because wow at those framerates. It also seems like an SLI 970 is only barely outperformed by SLI 980.

I would always get the most powerful single card instead of SLI, often SLI doesn't even work correctly right when a game comes out. you get extra stuttering, you have to fiddle with the driver settings more often, if its not an optimized title you can risk getting little to no extra performance from an extra card. There will be extra heat output, extra noise, extra risk of failure.
Also i feel like the 3.5/4 GB RAM on the 970/980 is to little, there is already problems with GTA5.

But this is just my personal opinion.
 

Vitor711

Member
I would always get the most powerful single card instead of SLI, often SLI doesn't even work correctly right when a game comes out. you get extra stuttering, you have to fiddle with the driver settings more often, if its not an optimized title you can risk getting little to no extra performance from an extra card. There will be extra heat output, extra noise, extra risk of failure.
Also i feel like the 3.5/4 GB RAM on the 970/980 is to little, there is already problems with GTA5.

But this is just my personal opinion.

Those are my concerns too. I hate stutter and hear that this hasn't been solved yet.

The 980 is actually 4GB though, right? So at least it's better in that sense.
 

HooYaH

Member
Selling one of my Titan X for $825 shipped via FedEx next day. I'll split PayPal fees. Works perfectly and comes complete with its fancy box. Lol. Only selling it for a part for my raptor. Lol. Message me if interested

I thought if you gift for family/friends that there aren't any paypal fees.
 

Engell

Member
Those are my concerns too. I hate stutter and hear that this hasn't been solved yet.

The 980 is actually 4GB though, right? So at least it's better in that sense.

If you can wait a month that would be the best, the 980TI should be somewhat same gpu as titan x with 6GB ram.
And maybe AMDs new card will be even faster.. who knows
 

Vitor711

Member
If you can wait a month that would be the best, the 980TI should be somewhat same gpu as titan x with 6GB ram.
And maybe AMDs new card will be even faster.. who knows

Yeah, but the 980TI would still be a few hundred dollars more expensive I bet. It has to be priced between the 980 and Titan X (if we assume the 980 will have a $100 price drop too).

I may just get the 980 and, if I really get buyer's remorse, sell it on to get the TI. EVGA has a return program for 90 days, right? I could always spend a bit more on one of their models instead of the Gigabyte I have in my build and try that.
 

HooYaH

Member
Yeah, but the 980TI would still be a few hundred dollars more expensive I bet. It has to be priced between the 980 and Titan X (if we assume the 980 will have a $100 price drop too).

I may just get the 980 and, if I really get buyer's remorse, sell it on to get the TI. EVGA has a return program for 90 days, right? I could always spend a bit more on one of their models instead of the Gigabyte I have in my build and try that.

Step up to a newer model, not a return policy of 90 days.
 

kennah

Member
I guess there is no way to do it without a mount then.

Do you know if there are any adapters do make connecting the power to them easier? I have one cable going out from my power supply to connect all three and you have to twist and turn it for each ssd.

There's no built in way, but you could drill new holes if you really wanted to I guess.

There are power splitters that might work the way you want.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...68&cm_re=sata_splitter-_-12-200-468-_-Product
 
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