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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I would figure these would work?Double sided sticky tape?
Not trying to be a smartass.. it's an option
These things are awesome since they come off easy and you can remount if needed.
http://www.amazon.com/Command-Mounting-Refill-Strips-6-Strip/dp/B000FCGS5Y
Xplatformer
Member
So I've got the Node 304.
I'm thinking about skipping the eVGA 960 and going straight to a 970 for $100 more.
For the life of me, I'm worried about noise and heat in the 304. I've got an after market CPU cooler, and I plan on using all the fans that come with the 304.
Anyone think I should steer away from a 970 in such a small case since I'm not doing watercooling or anything?
Mind..I'm only going to play Star Citizen, Witcher 3, Star Wars Battlefront at 1080p. I'm also using this as my HTPC that will sit under my living room table. Noise and heat are important.
$340 for the 970 or $240 for the 4GB 960?
I'm thinking about skipping the eVGA 960 and going straight to a 970 for $100 more.
For the life of me, I'm worried about noise and heat in the 304. I've got an after market CPU cooler, and I plan on using all the fans that come with the 304.
Anyone think I should steer away from a 970 in such a small case since I'm not doing watercooling or anything?
Mind..I'm only going to play Star Citizen, Witcher 3, Star Wars Battlefront at 1080p. I'm also using this as my HTPC that will sit under my living room table. Noise and heat are important.
$340 for the 970 or $240 for the 4GB 960?
ArkkAngel007
Member
I remember someone suggesting one of the Samsung Galaxy models a year or so back. Can't find the thread though.
That looks like a good option thank you!
Is SuperBiiz a reliable shop? The price of the processor I was going to use in my build went up like 30 bucks in most places. :/
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i74790k
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i74790k
correct, there is no fees but I like for everyone to be secure and such, if a person does not mind sending it gift, I wont stop them.
I'm very reputable anyways
Had a potential problem with my build. The posts above are what I was going off of. Here's the build I had going on the PC parts list. Help please! D:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/wVwZdC
kutthoat5150
Member
dumb question but you don't have to buy from EVGA site to use step up program correct? I was planning on buying through Amazon instead. Also it is likely the TI will come out in the next 3 months?
The GTX 970 shouldn't be a problem at all. It's relatively efficient for its graphical power and some models also feature zero fan speed modes when at low temperature like some GTX 960 cards.
That EVGA GTX 970 SC isn't $340, it's $310 after rebate. Or are you including tax to the cost?
What are your system specs? How small of a case are you looking for, do you have specific dimensions in mind? You are also changing motherboards?
It should be possible to salvage your current installation and move it over to a new motherboard using a tool like Windows sysprep. However, I'm not sure what kind of prebuilt PC you have. When you say "shop-bought", you mean you bought a custom-built-to-order PC, or a prebuilt from the likes of HP/Dell/etc? The latter might be trickier to work with, you might have to buy a new Windows license instead of reusing the old one and calling Microsoft to reactivate with a new motherboard.
Twin GTX 970 would require about 750 watts for the whole system. Future cards may require more wattage, it's hard to say. I imagine 850 watts should be enough for future SLI setups.
You can read the terms of the step up program here. You have to buy from the EVGA website. You pay the difference remaining as calculated from the MSRP of the newer graphics card priced by the EVGA store. Not sure if they do sales or rebates, but I doubt they do.
What's the problem? The build you linked is missing some parts?
No. You can download Windows 7/8/8.1 and create an install disc or USB drive. What version of Windows do you have?
You can run them together, but you might have issues with micro-stutter or instability. Ideally, both cards should be the same model and running at the same speed. You could manually set both cards to the same clock and memory speed, but I can't say for certain that such a setup would be trouble-free as I have no experience with that.
"The G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory operating voltage of 1.65V exceeds the Intel Haswell Refresh CPU recommended maximum of 1.5V+5% (1.575V). This memory module may run at a reduced clock rate to meet the 1.5V voltage recommendation, or may require running at a voltage greater than the Intel recommended maximum."
Is this an issue?
kutthoat5150
Member
That's a bummer, didn't want to wait for the TI to play witcher 3 because this 680 isn't going to cut it. Guess I'll hold off so I can use my amazon credit, thanks.
More interested in the TI since it's suppose to come with 6gb which should help when I also upgrade to 1440p
Nope, it's still compatible. Normally RAM operates at 1.5V, all RAM above 1333/1600MHz is technically overclocked and most above 1866MHz require higher voltages to reach higher speeds. While technically out of spec, it is safe to run, it just means the RAM temperature will be a few degrees higher. See this Puget Systems test for specific details. They test 1.65V RAM against low voltage 1.25V and 1.35V RAM.
At most, there is a 5 degree difference between the 1.65V RAM and the 1.25/1.35V RAM. Normal RAM operates at 1.5V, and should be somewhere in between in terms of temperatures. Therefore, I think it's safe to say that 1.65V RAM compared to 1.5V RAM is maybe 2~3 degrees warmer at the most and isn't a big deal as long as your case has adequate airflow.
A while back there were reports that the GTX 980 was able to max out the Witcher 3. Or were you just more interested in the 980 Ti?
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
For UK Gaf: Aria PC have a limited deal on the XFX Double Dissipation R9 290X for £215 that arrived in my inbox tonight. Absolutely cracking.
Below is my final build- any comments before I start ordering stuff tonight?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Toshiba Product SeriesT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($516.49 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1224.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-12 01:24 EDT-0400
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
I would say so. If your PSU was a quality one (EVGA G2, Seasonic and Gold rated) it would probably be fine, but in all honesty you should have a better PSU anyway if you have a Titan X and 5820K.
BTW I have the same processor and an 850W EVGA G2. Haswell-E overclocks like a treat, 4.5Ghz on air but I have a weak GPU as that isn't my priority just yet
Awesome. Thanks for the help! I was going to place an order for the rest of the parts tonight. Sad my processor went up in price though. =(
I run my 970 overclocked with all case fans set to medium (7volts) including the CPU fan (Hyper 212, now Venomous X). I can run most games at 60fps at below 65*c and GTA V runs 50% passively (59-64c). You must take care with cable management. See my rig on pg150 of this thread.
I think if neither my CPU or GPU were overclocked i could run the case fans at 5v.
The case has a 5/7/12v fan controller at the rear.
Its about 400W peak power consumption for the system at stock settings. So you have 150W to play with atleast with overclocks. Shouldnt be an issue. TX650 was a solid PSU.
Enter the Dragon Punch
Banned
My friend gave me a budget of $800 (Canadian), and I built this for him. How did I do?
Note: The RAM is running in dual channel, Speccy is being weird. The GPU is a 290.
I'VE NOW OFFICIALLY BOUGHT EVERYTHING. NOW TO JUST WAIT FOR IT TO ARRIVE. ...and for me to send back my case and get my new one. -.-
HERE IS MY BUILD. HOW DOES IT LOOK GAF?!?!?!
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yB9pnQ
HERE IS MY BUILD. HOW DOES IT LOOK GAF?!?!?!
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yB9pnQ
My friend gave me a budget of $800 (Canadian), and I built this for him. How did I do?
Note: The RAM is running in dual channel, Speccy is being weird. The GPU is a 290.
What GPU? Z series board, non-K CPU? CAS 10 1600MHz Ram?
You are looking to SLI a GTX 970 with 3.5GB VRAM issue?
At that price for a PSU, i would have bought a Gold certified PSU. Otherwise its fine.
You have bought 1.65v RAM, you may want to run slower than 2400Mhz and use 1.5v maximum. Itll probably do 1866Mhz CL10 1.5v.
Enter the Dragon Punch
Banned
Like I said in my post, it's a 290. Non-K because he didn't want to wait for shipping so we picked that one up locally, last part he needed.
This makes me want to cry a little bit.
What 970 issues are you experiencing?
Thats pretty good with a R9 290, would like to see the full specs and prices if you can.
If the 980 Ti is a full GM200 chip and priced @ $699 like the 780 Ti then definitely
My guess is it'll drop to $400-450, if that happens.
Enter the Dragon Punch
Banned
I'll try to get the receipts from him since it was ultimately his debit card
He grew up really, really poor and finally has a stable full time job and can afford some luxuries. He's been talking about building a PC for years. He just couldn't wait!
I'm not planning on going SLI anytime soon. Also, a few posts above me said that using this RAM should be fine. The link that they provided seem to support that. Is that incorrect?
There will never be any justification from Intel to state that its safe as the chips are rated for 1.5v memory. So there could be some degradation over many years, my guess is that it would be a long time 5-10 years if used normally and not a 24/7 100% load machine. But generally its advised to buy 1.5v Ram for that uncertainty to be ruled out. The kit is very cheap so it makes sense to purcahse. I would just run it at 1.5v and slower speeds. 2400Mhz will make no difference over 1866Mhz when gaming.
Just run it a bit slower at a lower voltage. This means do not use XMP for the memory in the BIOS settings.
Also, Go Timbers.
That was me. Liljoka and Mkenyon are expressing long term concerns about system longevity and heat, which is a valid point. High speed RAM rated at 1.65V can always be scaled back down to run at slightly lower speeds and 1.5V as a way to keep the system running slightly cooler and for a couple years longer, but by the time it becomes a concern, you might be looking at a new PC anyway and DDR4 will be standard. I just like to recommend high speed RAM if it's at a good price. It's easier to set high speed RAM to run at lower speeds than the opposite.
I also recommended a 650 watt gold power supply, I wonder why you went with the expensive $115 bronze power supply? I mean, it's your choice, but quality bronze modular 850 watt power supplies can be had for around $30~40 cheaper. The build won't use anywhere near 850 watts if you don't plan to go for SLI, though.
Good to know. Thanks guys. Also, HECK YEAH GO TIMBERS. I don't suppose you go to the games, do you? I live in Portland and had the ridiculous luck of somehow managing to get a season ticket this year.
I went with the more "expensive" one because I bought it a week ago for $90 as opposed to the $115 that is currently displayed, plus there was a mail in rebate for 10 bucks. It was a good deal. I also wanted to future proof myself a bit with it.
Oh, I see, I hadn't realized you already bought it, I must have missed that.
I only go to one or two games a year unfortunately. My wife and I are originally from Vancouver/Portland, but now am in Olympia. She used to practice at what was then PGE Park though, and we even used to go to the USL Timbers games.
When I first moved to Portland in 2006 I lived across the street from PGE park in those giant peach colored apartments. Went to a few USL games as well. Crazy how big soccer has gotten in this city. Anyway.
Oh, I'm just totally turned off to it because of the 3.5 crap. I've done some research and I know that it's mostly fine but I'm the type who holds onto cards for a really long time and the 3.5 deal just sounds like a longevity killer IMO.
I hope you are right, $400 sounds great for that card.
Are you sure you didn't misplace the accessories?
I don't see any reason why you should go for the slower one.
Thanks, I had assumed that maybe the former would potentially allow for higher overclocking or something.
EDIT: Guessing this isn't a problem either?
"The G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory operating voltage of 1.65V exceeds the Intel Haswell Refresh CPU recommended maximum of 1.5V+5% (1.575V). This memory module may run at a reduced clock rate to meet the 1.5V voltage recommendation, or may require running at a voltage greater than the Intel recommended maximum."
Wait, I just looked and apparently the Superclocked model you're talking about is the blower cooler model. I thought both of the cards you were talking about were the twin fan cooler models. Hmm, it's up to you to decide, then.
The open style twin fan ACX2.0 cooler is quieter than the blower cooler and should do a better job of lower the GPU's temperatures. On the other hand, while the blower cooler is somewhat less effective at cooling the card itself, it does not contribute to the inside temperature of the case because the blower takes in air from the case and exhausts it out of the end of the card that faces outside.
You're right, I also think the twin fan ACX2.0 cooler would be more acceptable for overclocking. If you don't mind tweaking it yourself, you should be able to overclock it to match or even outdo the blower type SC's factory overclock speed. There are higher overclocked models that use the same or similar twin fan cooler such as the FTW and SC twin fan models.
We just had a small discussion about that on the last page (268), actually. Refer to the posts by Liljoka, Mkenyon, and myself about RAM voltage. Not an issue unless you prefer slightly lower case temperatures and want your parts to last longer than 5 years.
I literally asked the same question a few posts ago.
So I was right. Appreciate the help! Now I see why the ACX 2.0 is in higher demand. Guess I'll go for that.
Also, your Google-fu is clearly better than mine. I couldn't get any solid info despite trying for about 15 minutes.
I literally asked the same question a few posts ago.
Totally missed that! Get an answer already or still waiting?
OriginofHysteria
Banned
Did you check the drive bays? There's usually a box in it containing the screws
HarryDemeanor
Member
I wish I could find a place that has the Define R5 white up for sale. It's either been delisted or on backorder on the usual sites.
thanks! the box of screws was inside one of the drive cages.
Im now at my wits end with another issue... its gotta be the simplest thing and its driving me insane. I cannot get the I/O shield of my z97-a to stick... its got lots of jagged pieces too and is easy to get cut on. I push from the inside out... iv tried pushing with a screwdriver... it just will not fit into it, it just goes out the other side.......
yep! i just found that
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