• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

Status
Not open for further replies.
Guys, with the recent 980ti announcement and my want to get into high end gaming, I'm going to build a PC. Only reason I took this Kong is because I didn't have the money to build the computer I wanted. So what would be the ideal set up for a PC that includes a 980ti? I'll be building it in the fall once my preparations are complete.
 

Stolen Sheep

Neo Member
Guys, with the recent 980ti announcement and my want to get into high end gaming, I'm going to build a PC. Only reason I took this Kong is because I didn't have the money to build the computer I wanted. So what would be the ideal set up for a PC that includes a 980ti? I'll be building it in the fall once my preparations are complete.

Not to piggyback too much on your comment but I'm in a similar boat. Looking at a new build late summer/early autumn based around a 980ti.

I know it won't be cheap but my first inkling is to wait for a Skylake i7 and double down with DDR4. I build from scratch once in a blue moon so I'd be a little reluctant to go for a Haswell and DDR3 even if it would be cheaper. It'd just be good to hear what others are thinking right now.
 

spannicus

Member
Not to piggyback too much on your comment but I'm in a similar boat. Looking at a new build late summer/early autumn based around a 980ti.

I know it won't be cheap but my first inkling is to wait for a Skylake i7 and double down with DDR4. I build from scratch once in a blue moon so I'd be a little reluctant to go for a Haswell and DDR3 even if it would be cheaper. It'd just be good to hear what others are thinking right now.

I'm in the same boat, I need to know what I will need to build around this card.
 
Not to piggyback too much on your comment but I'm in a similar boat. Looking at a new build late summer/early autumn based around a 980ti.

I know it won't be cheap but my first inkling is to wait for a Skylake i7 and double down with DDR4. I build from scratch once in a blue moon so I'd be a little reluctant to go for a Haswell and DDR3 even if it would be cheaper. It'd just be good to hear what others are thinking right now.

I'm in the same boat, I need to know what I will need to build around this card.
We're all in this together. First step into a new future. Dat financial aid money.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
I admit that I haven't really been keeping up with pc news lately, but today I noticed an icon in my task bar with the new windows logo and when I mouse over it, it says "Get Windows 10". Is this the full version of WIndows 10, or a beta, or a trial? I didn't realize windows 10 would be out so soon. (I'm currently on Windows 7 64-bit)
 
I admit that I haven't really been keeping up with pc news lately, but today I noticed an icon in my task bar with the new windows logo and when I mouse over it, it says "Get Windows 10". Is this the full version of WIndows 10, or a beta, or a trial? I didn't realize windows 10 would be out so soon. (I'm currently on Windows 7 64-bit)

Full Windows. It's a free upgrade for Windows 7/8 users. But right now it's in a preload sort of state (I think).
 

SRG01

Member
Anyone know an alternative way to test stable voltages aside from running things like SuperPi or Prime95? My machine is stable on those, but occasionally I'll get an OC failure every two/three weeks or so.
 
How significant of a disadvantage will I be in for VR if I continue to decide to not use SLI? I'd really prefer to keep my rigs to a single GPU...
 

Flandy

Member
Could someone explain to me what's up with my frame rate increase in Assassins Creed 3. Upgraded from a 7950 3GB to a GTX 970.
Didn't upgrade my CPU so I used a i7 2600k with both cards

On my 7950 I seemed to get average about 35-40fps in the first town you step into upon getting off the ship (Boston?). I changed the resolution from 1080p to the lowest the game offered (800x600 or something similar) and my frame rate stayed the same. After I saw my horrible performance I OC'd the 2600k to 4.1 GHz and that increased my frame rate a bit.
I'm getting 60fps on my GTX 970 in the first town without an overclock.

I was under the impression that my 2600k bottle necked me in AC3 so it wouldn't matter if I upgraded my GPU. Not that I'm complaining, but i'd like to know what's up.
 
The 980ti seems pretty amazing for the price.

Now I'm questioning my decision to wait for Skylake.

I have the money to build and I'm off for the summer and have nothing to do.

Would it be stupid for me to build in the next couple of weeks instead of waiting?
 
The 980ti seems pretty amazing for the price.

Now I'm questioning my decision to wait for Skylake.

I have the money to build and I'm off for the summer and have nothing to do.

Would it be stupid for me to build in the next couple of weeks instead of waiting?

Not stupid. Expect Skylake to be maybe 10-15% faster. What's your current system and how much were you thinking of spending?
 

SRG01

Member
The 980ti seems pretty amazing for the price.

Now I'm questioning my decision to wait for Skylake.

I have the money to build and I'm off for the summer and have nothing to do.

Would it be stupid for me to build in the next couple of weeks instead of waiting?

If it was a couple of months ago, I'd tell you to build. But Skylake would most likely be at the end of the summer and AMD should be announcing something soon.

I suggest saving up money over the summer and enjoy the weather while it's warm, so you can hibernate with your new machine once the cold weather comes in :D

... can you tell that I'm from Canada? :(
 
Is Skylake supposed to be here that soon? I've heard it might not even be out until early next year.

My current pc is the first one I ever built. I've had it since 2010 and upgraded parts over the years.

i5 750@stock
8GB RAM
HD 7970 Ghz 3GB
256GB SSD
1TB HDD

I'm wanting to spend between 1600-2000 dollars. Just on the case and parts. I plan on using my old monitors.
 
Anyone know what the dealio is with NVIDIA and their 900 series GPUs? I've had mine since November and I just sent it off for an RMA last week. I was getting driver crashes in Witcher 3 and SWTOR until I underclocked my GPU from their factory OC settings. That told me it was definitely a bad GPU. Google the problem and it seems to be highly widespread since these cards came out. Some even saying getting new cards never seem to fix the issue.

Anyone in here have TW3 and never crash on a GTX 980? I see a plethora of complaints pointing to that game being specifically terrible for NVIDIA drivers. Seems NVIDIA screwed the pooch on this new architecture. That or their driver support is going the way of AMD.

Maybe it's just EVGA line of 900s series GPUs because it seems their line specifically has all the problems. If anyone in here is looking to get one I highly advise against it and just go Google the problems yourself. Might have more luck with different brands. I'm going to be pissed if I get another defective GPU by them.
 

Key2001

Member
Anyone know what the dealio is with NVIDIA and their 900 series GPUs? I've had mine since November and I just sent it off for an RMA last week. I was getting driver crashes in Witcher 3 and SWTOR until I underclocked my GPU from their factory OC settings. That told me it was definitely a bad GPU. Google the problem and it seems to be highly widespread since these cards came out. Some even saying getting new cards never seem to fix the issue.

Anyone in here have TW3 and never crash on a GTX 980? I see a plethora of complaints pointing to that game being specifically terrible for NVIDIA drivers. Seems NVIDIA screwed the pooch on this new architecture. That or their driver support is going the way of AMD.

Maybe it's just EVGA line of 900s series GPUs because it seems their line specifically has all the problems. If anyone in here is looking to get one I highly advise against it and just go Google the problems yourself. Might have more luck with different brands. I'm going to be pissed if I get another defective GPU by them.

I could be wrong but I think there was a problem with some EVGA 900 series cards and their first ACX heatsink not having proper contact with the GPU or something,
 
I could be wrong but I think there was a problem with some EVGA 900 series cards and their first ACX heatsink not having proper contact with the GPU or something,

Yes, that was definitely an issue. I think now for instance the EVGA cards now go something like ACX 2.0(which I have) to ACX 2.0+. I'm not sure what was changed in the + but the heatsinks were a problem I know that.

My card never overheated or anything like that. They never went past 70c under full loads. I would get black screens like no display and then Windows would recover after the driver crash. Sometimes I had to reboot to fully recover. Did a lot of troubleshooting and what gave it away as a bad GPU for me was when I underclocked from their factory OC settings the games were stable again. So it was definitely a factory OC that was unstable. I've seen somewhere that EVGA even tweaked how high their OCs were on some of their GPUs. I would highly recommend against getting an EVGA GPU for the 900 series if anyone is interested in them.

It's disappointing to me because this is my second EVGA GPU over the past few years that went to poop. I don't think they have the brand reputation they use to have...at least for me anymore. I just wanted to bring this to light in this thread and advise people to look up the problem I'm talking about before they purchase.
 

RGM79

Member
Could someone explain to me what's up with my frame rate increase in Assassins Creed 3. Upgraded from a 7950 3GB to a GTX 970.
Didn't upgrade my CPU so I used a i7 2600k with both cards

On my 7950 I seemed to get average about 35-40fps in the first town you step into upon getting off the ship (Boston?). I changed the resolution from 1080p to the lowest the game offered (800x600 or something similar) and my frame rate stayed the same. After I saw my horrible performance I OC'd the 2600k to 4.1 GHz and that increased my frame rate a bit.
I'm getting 60fps on my GTX 970 in the first town without an overclock.

I was under the impression that my 2600k bottle necked me in AC3 so it wouldn't matter if I upgraded my GPU. Not that I'm complaining, but i'd like to know what's up.
That's perfectly normal. The 2600K isn't a bottleneck at all. A new graphics card will always allow for better framerate and graphical quality given a good enough processor.

The 2600K is a few generations old, but AMD's lack of competition and Intel's current plans for the desktop segment of computing mean that the last couple of generations haven't been really groundbreaking when it comes to processor performance, it's been more like a steady 10~20% performance improvement or less from the 2600K to 3770K to 4790K. Ocaholic did some testing and the venerable 2500K is only slightly behind the 4670K, I assume there would be similar gains if you were to compare your 2600K to the current 4790K. Overclocking would only narrow the gap even further.

Also, performance can depend on the game's coding. Some games aren't heavy on things like processor-specific things like math and computation or large number of objects, so they naturally depend more on the graphics card for overall performance.
 

RGM79

Member
I could be wrong but I think there was a problem with some EVGA 900 series cards and their first ACX heatsink not having proper contact with the GPU or something,

Yes, that was definitely an issue. I think now for instance the EVGA cards now go something like ACX 2.0(which I have) to ACX 2.0+. I'm not sure what was changed in the + but the heatsinks were a problem I know that.

My card never overheated or anything like that. They never went past 70c under full loads. I would get black screens like no display and then Windows would recover after the driver crash. Sometimes I had to reboot to fully recover. Did a lot of troubleshooting and what gave it away as a bad GPU for me was when I underclocked from their factory OC settings the games were stable again. So it was definitely a factory OC that was unstable. I've seen somewhere that EVGA even tweaked how high their OCs were on some of their GPUs. I would highly recommend against getting an EVGA GPU for the 900 series if anyone is interested in them.

It's disappointing to me because this is my second EVGA GPU over the past few years that went to poop. I don't think they have the brand reputation they use to have...at least for me anymore. I just wanted to bring this to light in this thread and advise people to look up the problem I'm talking about before they purchase.

The faulty cooler was an issue with their ACX 1.0 cooler design.
Poor heatpipe design and placement.

Unfortunately, factory OC isn't always guaranteed stable, and this goes for every brand. Overclocking is highly dependant on not just good cooling, but proper settings and "silicon lottery" (actual luck) where your GPU might just be able to handle higher overclocking more easily, because manufacturing processes don't mean every piece coming off the assembly line is guaranteed to have the same level of performance or capability.
 

hitoman

Member
Hi all, I've been looking all over the internet and can't seem to find a good answer. My motherboard died on my alienware aurora r3. I'm not too smart on compatible motherboards and am looking for one. I think I've found one but looking for some confirmation or another one if anyone can suggest anything. Here's the one I found:

Gigabyte Motherboard

Thanks for any help or suggestions. I've been a week without playing my PC games and it's killing me.
 

RGM79

Member
Hello! So I'm finally getting around to trying to build a desktop. Will be my first time foraying into the world of hardware beyond running cables and such. Been using an Asus G73 laptop for the past 5 years, and minor problems keep building on top of each other. Biggest thing is I think my graphics card is partially fried, since sometimes while playing games the screen will just go blank (white or black) or the whole thing will be covered in vertical lines. Usually takes a couple reboots and shutting it down for several hours before it's back.

I tried making a PC Part Picker build here: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/N2fCP6
But I think it's probably more powerful than I need. Options are very welcome. Looking for something where if there's a multiplat game, my PC would be the obvious choice over PS4.

Another thing, I don't know if it affects the choices, but I tend to use my computer laying down, propped up with elbows and pillows. Sitting at a desk has never been comfortable for me. I prefer slim keyboards since the keys are easier to press, but I don't know if there's any ergonomic effect I should consider with that and the monitor and such for my position.

Your build is ok, but some parts are outdated and no longer recommended. Here's my version of your build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-E ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($86.71 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($96.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($97.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card ($309.30 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) ($87.98 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($38.84 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VS238H-P 23.0" Monitor ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech K740 Wired Slim Keyboard ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Speakers: Genius SW-G2.1 1250 38W 2.1ch Speakers ($54.99 @ SuperBiiz)
External Storage: Western Digital Elements 1TB External Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1415.62
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-01 01:20 EDT-0400

About $95 was saved while managing to include higher end parts in the list. I didn't make any changes to the monitor, speakers, keyboard, etc as those are more personal preference and I don't have alternative suggestions. I did make a lot of changes elsewhere, though. I'll list the reasons why.

1. If you want a more capable PC to last you a few years, I recommend a K model processor like the i5 4690K. The K means it is can be overclocked and will have a longer useful like than the non-overclocking i5 4590.
2. Z87 motherboards are not recommended as they are older generation parts that may not be compatible with the 4590 or 4690K processors out of the box, usually a BIOS update is needed for Z87 motherboards to work with those processors. I chose the low-priced but decent Asus Z97-E motherboard, it is definitely compatible with the i5 4690K processor and should be more than adequate for you needs, including overclocking.
3. I found cheaper and faster RAM.
4. The 840 Evo is discontinued and has a performance-reducing problem that has not been fully resolved. I recommend newer SSDs like the Samsung 850 Evo or Crucial's BX100/MX100/MX200 models.
5. The GTX 770 is discontinued and no longer worth buying at such a high price. Your budget can afford the newer and better GTX 970, so I've included that in the parts list.
6. Nothing wrong with the older Define R4, but the newer and cheaper Define S is made for better interior airflow while retaining noise-dampening features. Cases are a subjective choice though, if you prefer the R4 for other reasons, feel free to add it back. There is also the Define R5 which is improved in many ways over the R4, but carries a higher price tag.
7. 850 watts is overkill when it comes to the parts list. A 750 watt power supply is already enough for twin GTX 980 in SLI, so I've chosen the very cost-effective and well built EVGA Supernova B2 model. If you have no plans for SLI, you could look for a slightly higher end ~650 watt power supply with fully modular cables and maybe fan noise control like the EVGA Supernova GS 650 watt model ($60 after discounts and rebates).
8. Do you really need the DVD drive? Those things don't get a lot of use these days, so you could cut that out and save the money. If you only need it to install Windows, then I should tell you that official tools from Microsoft exist to help you install Windows from a USB drive.

If you want to save more money, you could buy a Windows license from reddit. Windows 7/8.1 licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for $20 USD or less. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months.

If you live in the US near a Microcenter store, they sell the i5 4690K and ASRock Z97 Pro4 motherboard together as a bundle for $250 plus tax. Quite cheap when you consider the processor alone costs $230 elsewhere.

Now, I just wanted to ask you a few things about the build. Are you OK going without a regular hard drive? You didn't list one in the parts list. You didn't list a mouse either, I assume you already have one?
 

RGM79

Member
Separate post because the last one was getting too long.

Hi all, I've been looking all over the internet and can't seem to find a good answer. My motherboard died on my alienware aurora r3. I'm not too smart on compatible motherboards and am looking for one. I think I've found one but looking for some confirmation or another one if anyone can suggest anything. Here's the one I found:

Gigabyte Motherboard

Thanks for any help or suggestions. I've been a week without playing my PC games and it's killing me.

Any idea what your system specs are? We should figure out if it's compatible. From what I can find from searching, the Aurora R3 is from around the time of socket 1155 motherboards, so the B75 motherboard is a decent bet. However, some Aurora R3 models were sold with twin graphics cards, and the B75 motherboard won't be compatible with that.

So I decided to not wait and try to get the 980ti on release so I made a build around it. I'm new to this so are any of these parts gonna cause issues and if so what would be recommended?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($238.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($103.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX200 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($198.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Phantom (White) ATX Full Tower Case ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $867.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-31 20:53 EDT-0400

Parts look solid to me and there's no compatibility issues at all, but there's money to be saved if you don't mind alternative parts. For example, the EVGA Supernova G2 750 watt model is a great power supply, but $100 is kinda expensive, it drops to $80~85 every couple of weeks according to the price tracker.

I'd go with the parts below, it'd cost about $95 cheaper with virtually no drop in performance. You could spring for a higher end CPU cooler or something else.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-E ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($86.71 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($96.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($177.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: NZXT Phantom (White) ATX Full Tower Case ($104.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $774.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-01 01:54 EDT-0400
 

MoonGred

Member
Any recommendations for a mini itx or micro atx board? There's so many options and I've got no clue if a ROG board is that much better than a basic gigabyte one? My biggest gripe with the ROG maximus gene is the look of it, but I do like the improved sound chip.

Will windows 8.1 continue to work as per usual after I move everything to a smaller case/new motherboard or will it think it's a brand new pc?
 

MetalDeer

Member
Any recommendations for a mini itx or micro atx board? There's so many options and I've got no clue if a ROG board is that much better than a basic gigabyte one? My biggest gripe with the ROG maximus gene is the look of it, but I do like the improved sound chip.

Will windows 8.1 continue to work as per usual after I move everything to a smaller case/new motherboard or will it think it's a brand new pc?

Normally, you'll have to reinstall Windows if you change motherboards, unfortunately.
 

MoonGred

Member
Normally, you'll have to reinstall Windows if you change motherboards, unfortunately.

Thanks for that, didn't know that was the case.
So if I just connect my OS ssd and do a clean install on that could I connect my storage hdd after without losing all of its data? Or will that have to formatted as well?
 

MetalDeer

Member
Thanks for that, didn't know that was the case.
So if I just connect my OS ssd and do a clean install on that could I connect my storage hdd after without losing all of its data? Or will that have to formatted as well?

Yes, all of your stuff on your HDD will be fine. You may have to reinstall some programs, but it's better than losing everything. Just make sure you back up everything you need from your SSD.
 

RGM79

Member
Any recommendations for a mini itx or micro atx board? There's so many options and I've got no clue if a ROG board is that much better than a basic gigabyte one? My biggest gripe with the ROG maximus gene is the look of it, but I do like the improved sound chip.

Will windows 8.1 continue to work as per usual after I move everything to a smaller case/new motherboard or will it think it's a brand new pc?

Ideally you would have to reinstall Windows, but if you have things backed up and you don't want to go through the reinstallation process, you can try using the Microsoft sysprep tool. What sysprep does is remove all the hardware drivers in your Windows installation and allows it to work with different hardware. If done properly, all you'll need to do is swap motherboards and then install new drivers.

Refer to these links for more information:
Technet article on sysprep
Three-part guide on using Sysprep with Windows 8.1
 

MoonGred

Member
Yes, all of your stuff on your HDD will be fine. You may have to reinstall some programs, but it's better than losing everything. Just make sure you back up everything you need from your SSD.

Sweet, that saves me a whole bunch of downloading as I didn't have a big enough external drive to back up my storage disk. The SSD won't be an issue, it just has the OS on it.

Won't it ask for the cd key when installing windows again? Years ago I changed a bunch of parts in my computer and had to do a fresh windows install when I put in the key it said it was already in use, had to call Microsoft to fix it, which isn't the end of the world, just took a while. Is this still the same?
 

MetalDeer

Member
Sweet, that saves me a whole bunch of downloading as I didn't have a big enough external drive to back up my storage disk. The SSD won't be an issue, it just has the OS on it.

Won't it ask for the cd key when installing windows again? Years ago I changed a bunch of parts in my computer and had to do a fresh windows install when I put in the key it said it was already in use, had to call Microsoft to fix it, which isn't the end of the world, just took a while. Is this still the same?

I think it depends, though I'm not sure on what. When I reinstalled with a new motherboard last year, I just put in the key and it worked, no calls or anything. I think it might be how much you change hardware-wise.

You could also consider the option RGM posted above, though personally I'd prefer a clean install.
 

MoonGred

Member
I had actually never heard of the sysrep way, I'd probably use it if I had other things on the SSD that I cared about, but seeing as it only has the OS and 5gb of downloaded stuff I don't really mind doing a clean install.

Now I just need to figure out what motherboard to get.
 

Antti

Member
Ok, so my computer worked just fine a few days back, but now I can't even play The Witcher 3 because it stutters so badly. It'll be fine for 5-10sec but then hang for like half a second. The loading times must have tripled in length as well. Even Windows feels slower than before. What the hell happened, GAF!
 
just seen that the new 980 ti has been announced. i've been considering getting a 980 recently. would it be a stupid idea to use a 980 ti when only looking for 1080p 60fps? the power of the card would go towards making sure games run at the highest settings possible instead of trying to play at higher resolutions/frame rates.

my current pc:

i5-4590,
8GB
R9 290 4GB
750W PSU

would my cpu bottleneck a 980 ti and would my psu be able to power it?
 

RGM79

Member
I had actually never heard of the sysrep way, I'd probably use it if I had other things on the SSD that I cared about, but seeing as it only has the OS and 5gb of downloaded stuff I don't really mind doing a clean install.

Now I just need to figure out what motherboard to get.

Right, forgot to ask.. What are you looking for in an mITX motherboard, in terms of features and capabilities? Even the entry level mITX motherboards are quite good from what I hear. MSI's mITX models tend to have unique layouts that concentrate connectors along the top edge of the motherboard and the CPU power connector at the middle left side, which can make it difficult to plug in some cables.

What are your specs and new case?

Ok, so my computer worked just fine a few days back, but now I can't even play The Witcher 3 because it stutters so badly. It'll be fine for 5-10sec but then hang for like half a second. The loading times must have tripled in length as well. Even Windows feels slower than before. What the hell happened, GAF!

Do other games do this, or is it just the Witcher 3?
 

Jube3

Member
This thread is really awesome, I do my best with my PC but I don’t know a lot about it. I've wanted to upgrade my current rig for a few years now and decided to finally jump in. I've read through the thread and used the OP as a starting point but I'm not sure if what I have listed could be better for my current budget. I don't need hard drives at the moment and I currently have a 750W power supply.

Here is what I pieced together so far through friend recommendations and the list in the OP.
CPU: i7 4790k 4c/8T
CPU Cooler: not sure which one to get.
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-GAMING 5
Graphics Card: GTX 980ti
Case: Corsair Air 540

[Basic Desktop Questions]
Your Current Specs:
Core i7 920, 24gb DDR3, MSI X58 PRro, Geforce GTX 570, 750w, antec 800

Budget: 1500

Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest:
Gaming [5], Video Editing[4], Streaming games in HD[5], Photoshop/Illustrator/after effects[5] General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)[5}

Monitor Resolution: Currently playing at 1080 but will most likely upgrade in a few months not sure to what yet.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?
I would like to be able to run most things that are out max with no problems. I am currently playing Heroes of the Storm, racing games, Marvel Heroes but all I can play okay. I would love to be ready for VR when those devices hit.

Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 520HX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900)
Keeping my current drives (256mb SSD, 2 1tb drives), Keyboard and Mouse (blackwidow + Naga) and the 750W power supply unless I have to upgrade it. I also have the DDR3 I can carry over.

When will you build?: looking to build right now.

Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)
Maybe
 
Any recommendations for someone that lives from outside the mainland US ? I'm from Hawaii and i plan to order my parts through amazon and newegg .. What i'm more worried about really is the monitor i'll be buying soon which is an acer predator xb270hu ...what's the option for me though if i buy monitors ? Buy them of the acer's site ? Amazon ? Pr Newegg ?

I'm just scared my parts are gonna get fucked up when it comes to me
 

MoonGred

Member
Right, forgot to ask.. What are you looking for in an mITX motherboard, in terms of features and capabilities? Even the entry level mITX motherboards are quite good from what I hear. MSI's mITX models tend to have unique layouts that concentrate connectors along the top edge of the motherboard and the CPU power connector at the middle left side, which can make it difficult to plug in some cables.

What are your specs and new case?

At the moment I've got a Gigabyte z97 ud3h which serves me fine, if there's anything more I wanted it would be a better sound chip and on board wifi/Bluetooth.
The extra software that comes with those ROG boards looks nice, I just don't know if it's worth that extra money.

My other worry is if my psu - rm650 will actually be compatible with the motherboard, I seem to recall some itx boards requiring a different psu.

I'll be moving my 4690k and gigabyte 970 over to a corsair air240,which I'll most likely add a h80i gt to due to space constrains.
 

Antti

Member
Do other games do this, or is it just the Witcher 3?

Don't have any other games to test it on.

Seem to have fixed it by changing the power saving setting to "high performance" on Windows...? I might have changed it as I was researching ways to save power after a recent electricity bill. :p
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
COMPUTEX SOON
OP UPDATES SOON
NEW GPUS WOO


Any recommendations for someone that lives from outside the mainland US ? I'm from Hawaii and i plan to order my parts through amazon and newegg .. What i'm more worried about really is the monitor i'll be buying soon which is an acer predator xb270hu ...what's the option for me though if i buy monitors ? Buy them of the acer's site ? Amazon ? Pr Newegg ?

I'm just scared my parts are gonna get fucked up when it comes to me
If shipping is the same price just go through Amazon since they have a great return policy. I've ditched Newegg.
 
We've been having bad lightning storms in my area for the past week, so I always unplug all of my electronics when it starts. Unfortunately, I forgot to unplug the coax cable to the modem last night, so guess where an electrical surge decides to run in at.

It killed the modem, router, Ethernet switch, and the Ethernet port on my PC, as expected, but it also somehow managed to destroy the six USB 3.0 ports and the motherboard's built-in Wi-Fi adapter. Fun times. Having to make do with two USB 2 ports now: one for my mouse/keyboard receiver, and the other for a USB Ethernet adapter.

A very similar occurrence happened last July where it killed my GTX 770. I'm so lucky. You'd think I would remember to unplug the modem after the first time it happened, yet here we are.


TL;DR - I am looking for recommendations on where to find a Z77 board similar to my now crippled one. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131820

I'll probably switch it out and do a fresh Windows install for Windows 10 in a couple of months.
 
Here is what I pieced together so far through friend recommendations and the list in the OP.
CPU: i7 4790k 4c/8T
CPU Cooler: not sure which one to get.
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-GAMING 5
Memory: 4x4GB 2666Mhz DDR4 (I was looking at this as an option but I don’t know if its worth it since I have 24gb DDR3 (Cpu-z says at 2888.3)
Graphics Card: GTX 980ti
Case: Corsair Air 540

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think neither the processor nor the motherboard support DDR4
 
We've been having bad lightning storms in my area for the past week, so I always unplug all of my electronics when it starts. Unfortunately, I forgot to unplug the coax cable to the modem last night, so guess where an electrical surge decides to run in at.

It killed the modem, router, Ethernet switch, and the Ethernet port on my PC, as expected, but it also somehow managed to destroy the six USB 3.0 ports and the motherboard's built-in Wi-Fi adapter. Fun times. Having to make do with two USB 2 ports now: one for my mouse/keyboard receiver, and the other for a USB Ethernet adapter.

A very similar occurrence happened last July where it killed my GTX 770. I'm so lucky. You'd think I would remember to unplug the modem after the first time it happened, yet here we are.


TL;DR - I am looking for recommendations on where to find a Z77 board similar to my now crippled one. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131820

I'll probably switch it out and do a fresh Windows install for Windows 10 in a couple of months.

Where do you live that's so Stormy you fry your comp once a year?
 
Alabama.

We had lightning strike and kill two trees near our house in the past three years, so now with a lack of lightning rod like objects, it just strikes the house instead.


Currently looking at quotes for actual lighting rod installations. And probably contacting the cable company to ask them to send someone to inspect the ground on their line.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom