I edited, thanks for point that out. I think I copied it from the wrong column.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I edited, thanks for point that out. I think I copied it from the wrong column.
SHADES
Member
I have the itch to build again & was considering the 6700k (Skylake) but all the literature I've read so far regarding 6700k specs vs that of the 4790k (4% single core & 8-9% multicore performance increase) added with the extra expense of DDR4 & new socket (1151) I dunno? Skylake just doesn't seem worth waiting for at this point.
Am I missing something PC GAF?
Tunned
Member
Hi guys, for my new build I bought a multi card reader with integrated USB 3.0 USB, I have a question on how to connect it. My motherboard is an ASRock Z97 Extreme4, and the only USB 3.0 header connector it has is this one:
The multi card connector looks like this:
The bottom right pin is marked as +
Is there any way to make the multi card USD 3.0 work? Or is the only way around it to plug it into the UBS 2.0 headers and live with slow transfer rates?
The multi card connector looks like this:
The bottom right pin is marked as +
Is there any way to make the multi card USD 3.0 work? Or is the only way around it to plug it into the UBS 2.0 headers and live with slow transfer rates?
Zeyphersan is right, you cannot use DDR4 with the i7 4790K and the Z97 motherboard. DDR4 is only compatible with Intel's X99 enthusiast platform or the upcoming Skylake/Z170 consumer platform. You can reuse your existing DDR3 RAM with the Z97 motherboard to save money, what model is it and how many sticks of what capacity? I think you have triple-channel kits of RAM which means you have matching sticks in threes, Z97 is dual channel so you'll only be using even numbers of matching sticks.
Edit: Sorry, didn't see you edit your post while I was typing my reply.
As for the cooler, the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo (~$30) comes well recommended as the budget cooling king. It'll handle moderate overclocking (up to and around 4.5GHz) just fine, although there are other options like higher end air coolers such as Noctua models which are known for great design, performance, and low noise. Water cooler is an option if you want a more open looking interior and even higher performance, although it usually costs more than air cooling if you're looking at it from a price-to-performance point of view. What cooler you'll want will depend on how much you want to spend and if you prefer greater silence and/or looks.
I usually recommend not going for the more expensive higher end motherboards, especially if you won't be using their extra features very often.
I think the ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac ($122 after $20 rebate) is a good fit for what you want. Comes with AC wifi, bluetooth, and ALC1150 audio. Your current Gigabyte UD3H motherboard already comes with the ALC1150 audio chipset, though. If you have problems with the ALC1150 or you just want even better audio, you'll have to look into getting a dedicated sound card.. an internal sound card is out of the question when it comes to mITX since it'll take up the only PCI-E slot available for the graphics card, but you could look into getting a USB sound card. Audio isn't really my thing, so I have no idea what to recommend you when it comes to USB audio.
What are you using with the PC, audio-wise? Surround speakers? High end headset?
Don't worry about the power supply, it's compatible. It's not the motherboard, you're thinking of mITX cases that come in sizes too small to house a regular ATX power supply, so those cases require special compact power supplies.
Oh, that makes sense.Don't have any other games to test it on.
Seem to have fixed it by changing the power saving setting to "high performance" on Windows...? I might have changed it as I was researching ways to save power after a recent electricity bill.
The "high performance" prevents your PC from scaling down performance and using less power when not playing games or doing other similarly stressing tasks, it keeps the PC running at maximum performance all of the time. The "balanced" plan allows your PC to run at maximum performance when needed, but will lower performance to reduce power consumption when not doing anything stressing. The "power saver" plan keeps your PC in low performance states all the time.
You should leave it on "balanced" unless you feel there's something wrong with your PC.
King Gilga
Member
Crazy, around how much are those?
Back when I was 13, I was playing yugioh on my family PC, lightning storm, fried computer, like green/gray smoke and funny smell fried.
Didn't help that I tried to turn it on again right afterwards to.
Luckily it was only the cheapo video card that got fried we replaced with another cheapo video card, and diagnosing/replacing it was a good fun experience for my and my first time really opening a computer.
This reminds me, I should really buy a surge protected strip.
Performance-wise, I kinda doubt you'll miss out on much if you go with Z97 now. I'm only waiting for Skylake because I'm thinking about the next build after that might benefit from future compatibility, being able to drop a new processor into the same Z170 motherboard or reuse the DDR4 RAM with any new motherboards I might buy in the future.
I was thinking that way when I bought into P55 and socket 1156 about six years ago. I ended up not being able to reuse the motherboard for anything because socket 1156 was discontinued and replaced somewhat quickly, but I was able to reuse the DDR3 RAM with later tech, I have two Haswell-based PCs in my house and both of them are running with 5~6 year old RAM.
Hi guys, for my new build I bought a multi card reader with integrated USB 3.0 USB, I have a question on how to connect it. My motherboard is an ASRock Z97 Extreme4, and the only USB 3.0 header connector it has is this one:
The multi card connector looks like this:
The bottom right pin is marked as +
Is there any way to make the multi card USD 3.0 work? Or is the only way around it to plug it into the UBS 2.0 headers and live with slow transfer rates?
What card reader did you buy that was advertised as being USB 3.0 compatible but only came with a USB 2.0 connector? There's no way to get USB 3.0 speeds from a USB 2.0 connection. The extra pins are there to provide the USB 3.0 functionality.
Nostremitus
Member
Sometimes I miss North Alabama, then I see things like this and I remember what it's really like in the ass end of tornado alley.
I've only had to unplug anything once this year... ..and probably didn't really have to.
Hey guys, was wondering if someone could offer a little help with SSD data/OS migration. I'm a bit of a noob with these things, and because I rely on my computer for music production work I can't afford any mishaps.
I built a PC in 2011, using a Corsair F60 SSD for Windows 7. I have 3 other SSDs + 1 HDD connected for various software/data/sound banks, although the C: does have a few bits of software installed to it.
After years of windows updates etc, I'm down to ~2.7GB of space on the C:, and decided I need to upgrade asap. I've purchased a Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD to use as my new OS drive.
What's the best way to migrate/clone the data from the F60 to the 850? I've been reading various forums on how to do it, but I've read conflicting opinions; some are saying it's best to just do a fresh install of windows on a new drive because migrating can cause various issues. Is this true? But how would a fresh install affect the compatibility with my various software programs on the other drives? Would it affect software/plugin registries etc? (again, bit of a noob with these things!) But would a fresh install give me better performance overall?
If I were to clone the F60 onto the 850, how does one go about it? I think I've run out of SATA ports to connect drives to..is it ok to temporarily disconnect one of the other drives and connect the new drive for the migration process?
As it's a Samsung drive that I have, would it best to use their own migration software, or is there some better free software to use?
I also have Microsoft Office 2010 suite on the original C: drive... will migrating/cloning have any affect on the license? (it's a student license which I got whilst I was a uni student back in 2011).
Sorry for the bombardment of questions! If anyone could offer a bit of advice, or point me in the direction of a step-by-step guide or something, that would be great Cheers!
I built a PC in 2011, using a Corsair F60 SSD for Windows 7. I have 3 other SSDs + 1 HDD connected for various software/data/sound banks, although the C: does have a few bits of software installed to it.
After years of windows updates etc, I'm down to ~2.7GB of space on the C:, and decided I need to upgrade asap. I've purchased a Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD to use as my new OS drive.
What's the best way to migrate/clone the data from the F60 to the 850? I've been reading various forums on how to do it, but I've read conflicting opinions; some are saying it's best to just do a fresh install of windows on a new drive because migrating can cause various issues. Is this true? But how would a fresh install affect the compatibility with my various software programs on the other drives? Would it affect software/plugin registries etc? (again, bit of a noob with these things!) But would a fresh install give me better performance overall?
If I were to clone the F60 onto the 850, how does one go about it? I think I've run out of SATA ports to connect drives to..is it ok to temporarily disconnect one of the other drives and connect the new drive for the migration process?
As it's a Samsung drive that I have, would it best to use their own migration software, or is there some better free software to use?
I also have Microsoft Office 2010 suite on the original C: drive... will migrating/cloning have any affect on the license? (it's a student license which I got whilst I was a uni student back in 2011).
Sorry for the bombardment of questions! If anyone could offer a bit of advice, or point me in the direction of a step-by-step guide or something, that would be great
Cheers!
SHADES
Member
The difference for me would mean either GTX 980 TI ( 4790k) or staying with my GTX 970 (6700k) in terms of budget.
But weighing up the the 2 processors in performance at least of what's known currently there seems very little in them at all, for which I'm kind of disappointed tbh.
I bought my PC prebuilt (sorry) - I don't think I have a windows key, was probably OEM. Does that mean I'll have to buy a copy of windows if I switch motherboards?
Was looking to go from mATX to something that supports SLI but is still small - recommendations would be good there too.
Is there any big difference between the Asrock and a Gigabyte GA z97n wifi, apart from the lesser sound chip on the gigabyte one?
I'm trying to group my purchase from one shop, and I've only found one that sells the h80i gt, shipping in Australia can get a bit ridiculous.
I live somewhat close to a shop that would sell the Asrock board but refuse to shop there as they've got the worst customer service.
I'm using mid range headphones - philips fidelio x2,they do what I want them do to,which are currently running through a separate dac/amp which works fine. I would just be looking at clearing up some desk space is all.
What would be a good alternative to EVGA 980TI cards? I love their customer service since their RMA service is the best I've ever dealt with.
Gigabyte cards are out of the question because they will not fit in my case (at least the Gigabyte 980s didn't). So that would mean I'm left with MSI and Asus, of which I had bad customer experiences with - MSI was one of the worst experiences I've ever had. Trying to convince them that there was a problem was a complete chore.
I guess I answered my own question, it's either EVGA or Asus.
Gigabyte cards are out of the question because they will not fit in my case (at least the Gigabyte 980s didn't). So that would mean I'm left with MSI and Asus, of which I had bad customer experiences with - MSI was one of the worst experiences I've ever had. Trying to convince them that there was a problem was a complete chore.
I guess I answered my own question, it's either EVGA or Asus.
We know for sure 980 --> 960 are not fully DX12 compliant nvidia recently updated the titanx page with the launch of 980ti - http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-970/specifications
Hey guys, was wondering if someone could offer a little help with SSD data/OS migration. I'm a bit of a noob with these things, and because I rely on my computer for music production work I can't afford any mishaps.
I built a PC in 2011, using a Corsair F60 SSD for Windows 7. I have 3 other SSDs + 1 HDD connected for various software/data/sound banks, although the C: does have a few bits of software installed to it.
After years of windows updates etc, I'm down to ~2.7GB of space on the C:, and decided I need to upgrade asap. I've purchased a Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD to use as my new OS drive.
What's the best way to migrate/clone the data from the F60 to the 850? I've been reading various forums on how to do it, but I've read conflicting opinions; some are saying it's best to just do a fresh install of windows on a new drive because migrating can cause various issues. Is this true? But how would a fresh install affect the compatibility with my various software programs on the other drives? Would it affect software/plugin registries etc? (again, bit of a noob with these things!) But would a fresh install give me better performance overall?
If I were to clone the F60 onto the 850, how does one go about it? I think I've run out of SATA ports to connect drives to..is it ok to temporarily disconnect one of the other drives and connect the new drive for the migration process?
As it's a Samsung drive that I have, would it best to use their own migration software, or is there some better free software to use?
I also have Microsoft Office 2010 suite on the original C: drive... will migrating/cloning have any affect on the license? (it's a student license which I got whilst I was a uni student back in 2011).
Sorry for the bombardment of questions! If anyone could offer a bit of advice, or point me in the direction of a step-by-step guide or something, that would be great
What issues did they say would come from migrating the SSD? I can't really think of any (unless you have a weird partition setup?), the point of cloning the SSD is that it's meant to be hassle-free, you can replace the drive without needing to reinstall Windows or any programs. The one point that I can think of would be that a clean installation of Windows would remove any potential issues you currently have, there is nothing wrong with a fresh Windows install (as in there's literally nothing installed that could cause conflicts or problems).
There are guides you can follow for drive cloning, I recommend these two.
http://www.howtogeek.com/199068/how-to-upgrade-your-existing-hard-drive-in-under-an-hour/
http://www.howtogeek.com/97242/how-to-migrate-windows-7-to-a-solid-state-drive/
A fresh install of Windows would require you to reinstall all programs. Programs that have been installed to other drives might still work (it depends more on the program than Windows), but they won't be registered with a clean install of Windows, you'll have to manually add shortcuts and associate them with files.
Software-wise I like Macrium Reflect, but that's just me. It doesn't really matter what drive migration software you use, as long as it works. I'm not familiar with Samsung's software, I would imagine Samsung's software tries to make it as painless as possible for the average user. Macrium Reflect, Clonezilla, etc usually offers more features but can be somewhat overwhelming or even scary for people who aren't sure what to do exactly, so I'd stick to a guide for the other programs or use Samsung's software.
Cloning the OS drive means everything will be identical to the old drive, it should be a seamless switch, barring any weird complications. Nothing will happen to disassociate or deactivate any software licenses when cloning drives.
Staying with the 4790K seems like the better bet, my guess is that the GTX 980 Ti with the 4790K should perform better than a 6700K with a GTX 970.
All of Intel's recent processors have been like this. Each new generation brings only a slightly moderate performance increase (~10%?) at best. That's why "old" processors like the i5 2500K and i7 2600K are still competitive (and within spitting range when overclocked) with the current generation i5 4690K and i7 4790K.
You can use a program like Speccy to find and display your Windows license key, but there's a good chance that the Windows key is tied to the motherboard. Today's prebuilt PCs use Windows license data embedded into the motherboard BIOS to quickly and automatically handle Windows activation.
Performance-wise, not really? They'll have different numbers of ports and connectors available, that's mostly it. Each motherboard manufacturer also uses different drivers and software utilities for each motherboard.
Sorry, I assumed you were in the US, didn't know you were in Australia. PCPartPicker's Australian database isn't as large or well-maintained as the US price database, so you may still find better prices if you shop around. The ASRock motherboard doesn't even have any Australian prices listed. I'm not sure how much the ASRock motherboard is selling for in that shop or how much you want to pay, but there is the Gigabyte Z97N-Gaming 5 for $190 AUD, it has good specs and comes with the ALC1150 audio chipset as well. There's also a chance that you might not have to reinstall Windows if you change to a Gigabyte mITX motherboard.
Wow, tons of good info here. Thanks a lot for this. I was just sort of picking what looked good, had no idea about some of it being outdated.
Regular hard drive I think I got confused and put an external drive instead. What do you recommend there? I'll also probably pick up a (much smaller) external drive because I need to get in the habit of actually having back ups...
For mice, as I put in my post I have one of these that I got hand-me-down a while back. I'll probably replace it later on, after I get everything else up and running.
I do end up with discs from time to time still, mostly for burning. I might be able to find an old external DVD drive somewhere in the basement if my sister hasn't tossed it yet.
Thanks for the response. Honestly you've kinda convinved me to hold onto the idea of SLI'ing lol. Most old games run like an absolute dream on my 770 so i'd only be looking at new releases and you're suggesting they're becoming better optimised. Whens this whole DX12 thing coming out, it sounds epic.
SpacePirate Ridley
Member
Guys, I think im going finally buy my new pc after nearly a year of fiddling with making builds. Found the gtx 970 at good price (for europe lol) and I think im going to bite.
So this is the build I want with the pcpartpicker link:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nsnrsY
And here is the spanish version, costing more money, of course (didnt put the powersupply on this list becuase its the real buying basket and I already have that at home).
Anything that I need to change from there? I dont know if that case is any good (even of it says its compatible on pcpartpicker) but I didnt want to spend a lot of money on it. Also didnt add a heatsink. Do I really need that?
I dont want to go more than 1200 euros.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Want to buy it as soon as possible.
So this is the build I want with the pcpartpicker link:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nsnrsY
And here is the spanish version, costing more money, of course (didnt put the powersupply on this list becuase its the real buying basket and I already have that at home).
Anything that I need to change from there? I dont know if that case is any good (even of it says its compatible on pcpartpicker) but I didnt want to spend a lot of money on it. Also didnt add a heatsink. Do I really need that?
I dont want to go more than 1200 euros.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Want to buy it as soon as possible.
Tunned
Member
I did not mention that the card reader has a PCI-E connector, does everything work through that then? Either that, or I have be scammed
Prophet Steve
Member
Guys, I think im going finally buy my new pc after nearly a year of fiddling with making builds. Found the gtx 970 at good price (for europe lol) and I think im going to bite.
So this is the build I want with the pcpartpicker link:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nsnrsY
And here is the spanish version, costing more money, of course (didnt put the powersupply on this list becuase its the real buying basket and I already have that at home).
Anything that I need to change from there? I dont know if that case is any good (even of it says its compatible on pcpartpicker) but I didnt want to spend a lot of money on it. Also didnt add a heatsink. Do I really need that?
I dont want to go more than 1200 euros.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Want to buy it as soon as possible.
You are gonna need a heatsink if you want to overclock. But it can wait until you are actually planning to overclock, if you'll ever be. Build seems fine to me.
Not sure where else to ask, but since people here are knowledgeable on where to find parts, i thought i might give it a shot.
Does anyone know where to find the EVGA 980/Titan X hybrid coolers for sale? EVGA, in an astonishing lack of preparation, announced something they cant provide and of course asshats on ebay are charging tons of markup on a simple item.
Does anyone know where to find the EVGA 980/Titan X hybrid coolers for sale? EVGA, in an astonishing lack of preparation, announced something they cant provide and of course asshats on ebay are charging tons of markup on a simple item.
DoctorPayne
Banned
Am I playing with fire by pairing a R9 290X with a 500W Bronze PSU? Calculated the max power draw of all the components in my build and I should have ~40W of headroom between that and 500W, but input from others would be nice. I also won't be OCing, for what that's worth. Would my PC even approach that maximum draw while playing games, generally speaking?
ndawgdrake
Member
PC GAF, any chance of a price drop for the 970 now that the 980ti is out?
opticalmace
Member
980 got a $50 MSRP drop, nothing announced for the 970. AMD's revealing their new cards in a couple weeks. If they're very competitive the 970 might see a small drop. Dunno though.
Hey lads, could use a quick hand 'ere; I'm in need of a good dust-remover for my PC, preferably none-static and all that jazz. Any good recommendations? I'm in Denmark, and most of the ones I've seen on UK Amazon don't ship to DK :/
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Alsoooo, I'm really considering getting rid of the good ole Hockey Puck and getting an aftermarket cooler. What's a good option without going too far up in price? Don't mind whether it's liquid or air, as long as it's... Well, good. Mind you, my motherboard isn't all that large, and the stock cooler is riiiight next to the RAM, so nothing too huge. I've got Corsair Vengeance RAM, incase you're wondering regarding height of the RAM.
Thanks in advance!
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Alsoooo, I'm really considering getting rid of the good ole Hockey Puck and getting an aftermarket cooler. What's a good option without going too far up in price? Don't mind whether it's liquid or air, as long as it's... Well, good. Mind you, my motherboard isn't all that large, and the stock cooler is riiiight next to the RAM, so nothing too huge. I've got Corsair Vengeance RAM, incase you're wondering regarding height of the RAM.
Thanks in advance!
Can't answer without a model number or more info on what it is. Do you have any links?I did not mention that the card reader has a PCI-E connector, does everything work through that then? Either that, or I have be scammed
iSurvivedTheOutage
Member
Does anyone have any recommendations for a nice (affordable) desk? Looking for something sturdy though. I don't need pull out drawers or storage compartments. Something simple. I have two 24" monitors so it has to be large enough to compensate for those and a full size keyboard.
Ikea Galant is the standard favorite.
IMO, just find a nice huge big sturdy wooden flat thing. Maybe at Goodwill, maybe a garage sale. Refinish it, put whatever kind of legs you want on it. Set you out $100 or less. Will take some elbow grease though.
Availability on newly released cards has always been a situation where you need to either buy it within the first minute or two of release, F5'ing various online stores, or just hold out until availability increases.
Or, you know, just put your own hybrid cooler on it.
If it's a high quality 500w with stable single 12v rail you should be alright. But you are cutting it real close. If you start having random BSOD's then you pretty much know why.
I'd try the Guru3D cleaner and a fresh install.
iSurvivedTheOutage
Member
Ikea Galant is the standard favorite.
IMO, just find a nice huge big sturdy wooden flat thing. Maybe at Goodwill, maybe a garage sale. Refinish it, put whatever kind of legs you want on it. Set you out $100 or less. Will take some elbow grease though.
Availability on newly released cards has always been a situation where you need to either buy it within the first minute or two of release, F5'ing various online stores, or just hold out until availability increases.
Or, you know, just put your own hybrid cooler on it.
Thanks! I really like the second idea!
WhiskerFrisker
Member
Any recommendations? My budget is $2,000.
Come back in the fall, to be honest. There will be new parts and price changes by then. Perhaps even Skylake Consumer stuff.
WhiskerFrisker
Member
Hmm, alright then. For Skylake products, does this include CPUs? I was thinking of getting an i7-4790k cpu, but after you mentioned it, I don't know if a better one will come out.
Chance Hale
Member
How many issues does three way sli scaling run into compared to 2? Wondering whether I might want a 3rd 980ti down the line if Pascal takes too long to come out. 4K, 60 is the dream!
This will be the first card I use sli with at all.
This will be the first card I use sli with at all.
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
Don't buy anything until you see what AMD have to offer with their new line of cards later this month, and what effect this will have on the GPU market prices in general.
Skylake is due mid August, so you can either wait for that or go for a six-core/eight-core Haswell-E CPU.
Lots. It's generally a major PITA. You'd want to be on an enthusaist socket platform and/or have a consumer socket motherboard with a PLX chip ($$$$$$) as well.
You can make it work, but there will be times where things just don't work right and you'll need to disable one of the cards. Others you'll just need to spend some time figuring out what profile you might need to be using.
It sure does look rad though, my old 3x670 setup:
Yeah, there may be the Skylake CPUs and motherboards out by then. DDR4 plus some other neat features. DDR4 is already available on the enthusiast socket (2011-3/X99), but comes at a bit of a premium on the processor. However, the baseline 5820K is a 6C/12T part, which is nice.
WhiskerFrisker
Member
I don't really want an and card, but I do hope they shake up the prices a tad bit! It'll make things cheaper for me. So these Haswell cu should be good right?
Links for the ram? I want to go with 16GB of ram. I'll look into Skylake technology since this sounds interesting.
StarlordDial
Member
ty !
DoctorPayne
Banned
Thanks for the response, much appreciated. This is what I'm using: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-B1-0500-KR
According to the specs it has 40A/480W on the 12V rail, which I'm assuming is pretty close to the best case scenario for a 500W PSU?
Yeah, it only requires 32A on the 12V rail. You'll be fine, that's a good unit. What 290X are you going to be using, out of curiosity?
DoctorPayne
Banned
Thanks. It's this one right here: https://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/R9290XDC24GD5/
Honestly would have preferred to go with a 970 due to the power considerations, but the price/performance ratio just seemed much better on this one (at least with UK prices).
Are there any Danish retailers that you prefer to shop with? I don't mind looking through there for recommendations to give you.
As for the cooler, what case do you have and how much would you feel like spending? Thinking of overclocking and/or want something silent? That will determine overall compatibility and what you should get. Corsair Vengeance RAM comes in a couple of different sizes, do you have a model number or link for us to look at?
How large of a drive do you want? A 1TB 7200RPM Toshiba drive goes for $45, while the 2TB version goes for $69.
If you do deal with discs every now and then you might as well just get a new DVD drive, better than dealing with external drives at least in my experience. This LG DVD drive is only $10, or you can go with the trusty Samsung model for $15.
Word of warning though, the Fractal Define S case doesn't have any optical drive bays. In that case you may want to go back to the Define R4.
SpacePirate Ridley
Member
Thanks. Dont know if im going to overclock.
Im still afraid of the case as the 970 seems massive and I already had problems with my old case and the GTX570.
opticalmace
Member
Do they suffer in frame pacing compared to nvidia though? I'll look it up when I get home but if you know the answer that saves a little time, on mobile ATM.
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