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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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NeOak

Member
Oh god Fury X was just put on sale here

700€ for the Sapphire version

I feel so tempted, but the pump noise hardware problems are making me anxious

I really believe the drivers will improve the performance greatly on the card, and Watercooling is a huge plus for me.

The AIO pump noise?

All have that AFAIK. My Corsair H75 does too, but I have to be like, next to it with the case open.
 

M.D

Member
I'm looking for a new monitor but I have no idea what to look for in a monitor.. does anyone have any suggestions? It's pretty much for gaming

Looking for something in the $250-400 range
Thanks!
 

Arex

Member
Has there been any news on how skylake cpu is compared to haswell? I've only seen 1 article saying it's 4-8% faster..

I'm thinking the early cost of skylake cpu, mobo, and DDR4 ram aren't going to be as cheap as haswell and DDR3, so I may just stick with the latter.. is this stupid? really itching to get my pc this weekend haha

M.D said:
I'm looking for a new monitor but I have no idea what to look for in a monitor.. does anyone have any suggestions? It's pretty much for gaming

Looking for something in the $250-400 range
Thanks!

I'm looking at DELL U2515H right now.. It's the only 25" 1440p monitor that I can find. Not sure how good it is for gaming though!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SPWPF1O/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
Do you guys unplug your PC from power if there is a thunderstorm getting ready to hit you? I've
Been doing that lately for some reason. These summer storms brah.

Yes because this summer has been horrible here. It storms almost everyday and we're getting odd violent thunderstorms. 4 trees in my yard have been struck in the past month and a router got fried in my house so now I just unplug everything. It's not worth losing a $2k PC all because I got lazy and decided to rely on a surge protector to do their work. Nothing is going to protect against a direct strike.
 
I would like to know which AMD and NVidia cards best work for 1080p 144Hz at Ultra settings? Would like a recommendation from both companies please. Also max budget is $450 in the USA.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I'm casually mulling over my options leading up to Skylake. The build will be close to the "smokey" build from Hazaro (thanks for maintaining this, btw), only with a comparable Skylake CPU & mobo. Def going with a 980 Ti or very close equivalent, and 16GB-24GB DDR4 (32 is probably more than I need)

One thing I am still on the fence about is rather I should invest in a 4K monitor or stick to something like 1440p.

My main goals with this system is to have something powerful enough to do VR gaming for the first few years and be able to play all upcoming games at 60fps minimum and on max (or again, very nearly so) settings. I don't have a lot of experience with 4K to know if it's too early to consider 4K AAA gaming viable at decent framerates or if it's still too early to aim for that unless i'm willing to go to extremes such as buying TWO 980 Ti cards.

or let's say that I do buy a 4K monitor, mainly for photo editing/browsing/general computing and plan on running SOME games at 4K and play the others at lower resolutions, does anyone perceive any downsides to this approach?

Curious what other people who plan to build a Skylake system are aiming for?
Just use the current 'Smokey' tier as a guideline since it's the one that usually has the least amount of research done into it and a lot of the high end enthusiast parts are highly user preference.
I just used RGM to pick parts for that one so it could be up today
. Clearly should have dual 980Ti by default I didn't think too hard.

I'm not the best person to ask about 4K since I don't care for 4K. If it was me I'd target a nice 1440p/144Hz panel.
Here are some to look at: Eizo FG2421 (1080), Acer Z35 (21:9 1080), Acer XB270HU (1440p, may need to return to get good one) . If you do professional photo editing that needs good colors it's even harder to suggest a monitor if you want a single one.
The 960 is such shit that maybe it should be left out. Here's hoping the 950 Ti fares better.

double edit: Should the Pentium G3258 still be considered without an asterisk or something? More and more current games are being coded to not run on two core/thread CPUs, and going by this video it has some bad stuttering issues with others. All I see a G3258 useful for these days is for gimmick builds, or a temporary cpu for an overclocking build.
The Pentium is only in the $450 build as primary (And build notes on the bottom say you may want an AMD build at this price) and says it is used as an overclocking stopgap in the CPU notes with a Z97 board, which is where I think it should be used. Not sure what else I should put down when I include it saying it's good for LoL, Dota, Valve shit, and UE3. Otherwise the pricing gets too close from the $450 build to the $600 build imo.
I would like to know which AMD and NVidia cards best work for 1080p 144Hz at Ultra settings? Would like a recommendation from both companies please. Also max budget is $450 in the USA.
The only options would be a GTX 970 and AMD 390X and I'd lean towards a 970
 
Everything else maxed out? According to Eurogamer's benchmarks (no Hairworks), maybe the GTX 970 is your best bet for the money, especially if overclocked or with most settings at high or ultra but with a few settings turned down slightly. See the left hand side notes about "High-end PCs: recommended settings", assuming the rest of your PC more or less meets those specs.

The rest of your PC's specs will also make a difference. If you want a solid 60FPS all the way through the game, you'll have to turn down settings even more in anticipation of the busier or more complex parts of the games that will drive down framerate. Performance in a rural setting is nothing like that of a town, of course.


Thank you very much.
 

Jayne

Member
Has there been any news on how skylake cpu is compared to haswell? I've only seen 1 article saying it's 4-8% faster..

I'm thinking the early cost of skylake cpu, mobo, and DDR4 ram aren't going to be as cheap as haswell and DDR3, so I may just stick with the latter.. is this stupid? really itching to get my pc this weekend haha



I'm looking at DELL U2515H right now.. It's the only 25" 1440p monitor that I can find. Not sure how good it is for gaming though!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SPWPF1O/?tag=neogaf0e-20

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...8831&cm_re=Acer_G257HU-_-24-009-728-_-Product

Here's another 25'' 1440p monitor at a reasonable price.
 

M.D

Member
Has there been any news on how skylake cpu is compared to haswell? I've only seen 1 article saying it's 4-8% faster..

I'm thinking the early cost of skylake cpu, mobo, and DDR4 ram aren't going to be as cheap as haswell and DDR3, so I may just stick with the latter.. is this stupid? really itching to get my pc this weekend haha



I'm looking at DELL U2515H right now.. It's the only 25" 1440p monitor that I can find. Not sure how good it is for gaming though!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SPWPF1O/?tag=neogaf0e-20


These 2 aren't available yet where I live, but I've found this one and it has good reviews

BenQ 1ms GTG 144Hz High Performance Gaming 24-Inch LED-Lit Monitor XL2430T


Honestly not sure what difference the 144Hz makes, but as far as resolution on those 2 other screens.. I have 970 and I'm not looking to upgrade for at least few years, so I don't think I would benefit that much from 1440p in most cases
 
Do you guys think UEngine Valley Benchmark 1.0 is sufficient enough on extreme HD preset to find any instabilities in a GPU? I got an RMA GTX 980 from EVGA other day and I've put over 8 hours of running that benchmark on it with no problems. I'm kinda weary to use Furmark or OCCT since they kinda put unrealistic loads on the GPU and could possibly damage them? I'll probably let it run all day today again unless someone has a better stress testing benchmark besides OCCT/Furmark?
 
Been waiting for skylake, I'm pumped. Finally gonna Upgrade my 2500k

Is windows 8.1 smart enough to know that my computer is the same even if I replace mobo/cpu and ram?

It may or may not like it if you have a OEM copy, and/or depending on how they decide to restrict the upgrade copies. Worst case scenario, you have to call Microsoft, tell them the last MB died and they'll transfer the license over.
 
Any good sites for R9 390 gaming benchmarks yet? It looks like it is even, or slightly ahead of the GTX 970? Or how about some straight comparisons between the 200 series and 300 series (actual benchmarks).
 
Hi guys, hate to turn to tech support, but my friend built his computer last night and we've been having a few issues.

First is the text on his screen. It's a little wonky/blurry, and he's having issues with being able to get it to be NOT wonky or blurry. Video card is an AMD r9 280x, monitor is an asus VX228H, and it's connected via HDMI.

Here's an example:

48SPCIU.png


TT85CSI.png


Top is the new computer on the new monitor, bottom is his old laptop. We've tried changing the scaling in AMD to 0%, tried changing some DPI settings, turned on ClearText, but nothing helps. he's still stuck with those random bolded Ls and all that. He's also getting washed out colors that he can't fix through the control center. The control center preview image changes when he fiddles with the settings, but his desktop and the rest of the computer don't change. I wish I could be of more help to him, but I don't have an AMD card, so I don't really know what settings to change.

He also had a couple of random freezes last night: one while clicking the arrow in "save" when downloading a driver, and one while downloading windows updates. Hopefully that's nothing to be concerned about.
 

komplanen

Member
Text problems

Are you 100% certain the resolution is correct and not off by a few pixels?

Can you hook the laptop to the same monitor with the same HDMI cable and compare?

Can you uninstall AMD's drivers and see if the Windows default driver allows you to use the same resolution?

Can you try and see if resetting the monitor helps?
 
Are you 100% certain the resolution is correct and not off by a few pixels?

Can you hook the laptop to the same monitor with the same HDMI cable and compare?

Can you uninstall AMD's drivers and see if the Windows default driver allows you to use the same resolution?

Can you try and see if resetting the monitor helps?

The laptop doesn't seem to have the option to output at 1080p unfortunately, it was stuck at 900 when he tried it the other night.

He told me just now that he made the text issue a lot better by turning off "vividpixel" in his monitor settings, but that it's still a little iffy. I'm having him run through the cleartype setup again.

I'm just perplexed on the whole "catalyst not changing colors" thing. Whatever he does seems to have absolutely no effect on the desktop or anywhere aside from the preview image within catalyst itself.
 
What's the deal with the free Arkham Knight copy when you buy an Nvidia card now that the game has been recalled? I bought a 980 Ti from Newegg and saw no option to add the game to my cart.

I guess I can email Newegg. Considering I spent damn near $700 on a video card, I'm expecting my Batman even if it runs like ass currently.
 
What's the deal with the free Arkham Knight copy when you buy an Nvidia card now that the game has been recalled? I bought a 980 Ti from Newegg and saw no option to add the game to my cart.

I guess I can email Newegg. Considering I spent damn near $700 on a video card, I'm expecting my Batman even if it runs like ass currently.

I got my code last week when I ordered the GTX 970.
 
What's the deal with the free Arkham Knight copy when you buy an Nvidia card now that the game has been recalled? I bought a 980 Ti from Newegg and saw no option to add the game to my cart.

I guess I can email Newegg. Considering I spent damn near $700 on a video card, I'm expecting my Batman even if it runs like ass currently.

I ordered my 970 from Amazon last friday and I got a code, I was able to download the game.
 
OK, so don't laugh too much, but I'm still using a HD 6570 to power my dual monitors. The only thing I game is ETS2, so no big deal. My PC is primarily my workstation, and it will remain that way.

I just picked up two 1080p IPS monitors, and I'm looking for something to upgrade to down the road. Something budget for the next few years, something that's worth upgrading to from what I have now. Something with either multiple DVI or HDMI or DisplayPort output.

The rest of my specs, if needed. Nothing fancy, it gets the job done. 2012 build.

i5-2500K
16GB 10666
ASRock Z77 Extreme4
675w Toughpower XT
CM 690 II Case, so plenty of room.

I think my plans are to incrementally upgrade over the next couple of years with a 3570 or something, double the memory and a decent video card. Then I should be ready for a brand new build around 2020.

Thoughts? Specifically on a new card.
 

RGM79

Member
OK, so don't laugh too much, but I'm still using a HD 6570 to power my dual monitors. The only thing I game is ETS2, so no big deal. My PC is primarily my workstation, and it will remain that way.

I just picked up two 1080p IPS monitors, and I'm looking for something to upgrade to down the road. Something budget for the next few years, something that's worth upgrading to from what I have now. Something with either multiple DVI or HDMI or DisplayPort output.

The rest of my specs, if needed. Nothing fancy, it gets the job done. 2012 build.

i5-2500K
16GB 10666
ASRock Z77 Extreme4
675w Toughpower XT
CM 690 II Case, so plenty of room.

I think my plans are to incrementally upgrade over the next couple of years with a 3570 or something, double the memory and a decent video card. Then I should be ready for a brand new build around 2020.

Thoughts? Specifically on a new card.

If your current HD 6570 does the job, do you really need to upgrade? Or does it not have the outputs you need to run both of the new monitors?

Your 2500K is still very good, especially when overclocked. If you were to upgrade to a 3570K, you would be spending money on just a 10% performance boost at best, it wouldn't be worth it.

What sort of work are you doing that will require 32GB? I'm sorta curious, 16GB is already more than enough for average users.
 

Soodanim

Member
Any 140mm case fan recommendations?

I want a new case fan to increase the intake in my R4 case. I was going to get another Fractal Silent Series R2 140mm so it can be like its brothers, but it seems to be discontinued. The R3 version seems to be a simple case of being its replacement and is £7. But as the R4's front case fans are behind a dust filter that's behind a door, looks aren't a big deal. No LEDs though.

On a related note, my Galax 970 sat at 80c yesterday when I played Tomb Raider (high settings, 144hz G-Sync monitor so essentially no FPS cap). I think any other day it would have about 2-3 lower, but it's still higher than ideal, right? The 970 is stock and my CPU temps were about 68c (4690k, also stock). I stopped just before this sentence to set a much more aggressive fan curve. I think it was something like 80% at 80c before, that seems pointless. I guess I've just never had cause to mess with the curve too much before now.
How does it look?

Edit: Tried it out. Hits about 70 max, then fans kick it up and bring it back down to mid 60s. Are there any downsides to being more aggressive than this besides noise? Between the R4 case and playing with headphones noise isn't a factor I'm worried about.
 

Rizific

Member
rewind to a few weeks ago, i notice the pump on my corsair h60 starts making a ticking sound. google it, seems to be a common enough problem. no biggie, ill work on getting a new one. fast forward to yesterday, i noticed terrible performance in HoTS. i attributed it to the patch. googled and also found its been happening for some. but i also notice that the ticking sound from my h60 is no longer there. then it fucking hits me, its stopped working. fire up a hw monitor and all 4 cores on my 2500k are at 90+ celsius. immediately shut off computer. ill install the stock cooler once i get home, ive already submitted an rma to corsair. but how dead am i? could some damage have possibly be done to my cpu? my pc was functioning find outside of hots. was browsing and watching yt ok before that.
 
If your current HD 6570 does the job, do you really need to upgrade? Or does it not have the outputs you need to run both of the new monitors?

Your 2500K is still very good, especially when overclocked. If you were to upgrade to a 3570K, you would be spending money on just a 10% performance boost at best, it wouldn't be worth it.

What sort of work are you doing that will require 32GB? I'm sorta curious, 16GB is already more than enough for average users.

Fair points. The 6570 has one each of VGA, DVI and HDMI. The new monitors equal those ports, each. So no, I don't need to upgrade.

I probably don't use the 16GB I have now. Although, I had to pull one stick and I'm down to 8GB due to the paired ports. Or, I have another stick bad as well.

It's great if I don't need to spend any money on it for another couple of years, but if I did, I was looking for paths. The 2500K is working fine, and I've yet to OC. I need to do a better cooling job than the 212 is doing. I was actually looking at a off-shelf water unit like a Corsair. That really should be my next upgrade.
 

SRG01

Member
Any 140mm case fan recommendations?

I want a new case fan to increase the intake in my R4 case. I was going to get another Fractal Silent Series R2 140mm so it can be like its brothers, but it seems to be discontinued. The R3 version seems to be a simple case of being its replacement and is £7. But as the R4's front case fans are behind a dust filter that's behind a door, looks aren't a big deal.

On a related note, my Galax 970 sat at 80c yesterday when I played Tomb Raider (high settings, 144hz G-Sync monitor so essentially no FPS cap). I think any other day it would have about 2-3 lower, but it's still higher than ideal, right? The 970 is stock and my CPU temps were about 68c (4690k, also stock). I stopped just before this sentence to set a much more aggressive fan curve. I think it was something like 80% at 80c before, that seems pointless. I guess I've just never had cause to mess with the curve too much before now.
How does it look?

Are you looking for max air flow, noise level, or a balance of the two? I'm particularly fond of Coolermaster fans, which have a pretty good CFM vs dBm ratio most of the time. Cougars are pretty good too.

Personally, I wouldn't recommend BitFenix fans because they're overpriced for their specs.

rewind to a few weeks ago, i notice the pump on my corsair h60 starts making a ticking sound. google it, seems to be a common enough problem. no biggie, ill work on getting a new one. fast forward to yesterday, i noticed terrible performance in HoTS. i attributed it to the patch. googled and also found its been happening for some. but i also notice that the ticking sound from my h60 is no longer there. then it fucking hits me, its stopped working. fire up a hw monitor and all 4 cores on my 2500k are at 90+ celsius. immediately shut off computer. ill install the stock cooler once i get home, ive already submitted an rma to corsair. but how dead am i? could some damage have possibly be done to my cpu? my pc was functioning find outside of hots. was browsing and watching yt ok before that.

Chances are that the 2500k clocked itself down because of the high temps. You should be fine.
 

Thorgal

Member
rewind to a few weeks ago, i notice the pump on my corsair h60 starts making a ticking sound. google it, seems to be a common enough problem. no biggie, ill work on getting a new one. fast forward to yesterday, i noticed terrible performance in HoTS. i attributed it to the patch. googled and also found its been happening for some. but i also notice that the ticking sound from my h60 is no longer there. then it fucking hits me, its stopped working. fire up a hw monitor and all 4 cores on my 2500k are at 90+ celsius. immediately shut off computer. ill install the stock cooler once i get home, ive already submitted an rma to corsair. but how dead am i? could some damage have possibly be done to my cpu? my pc was functioning find outside of hots. was browsing and watching yt ok before that.

iirc 2500K automatically shutdown once temps go above 98 °C to prevent damage .

So unless you smell something burning i think youre in the clear .
 

Soodanim

Member
Are you looking for max air flow, noise level, or a balance of the two? I'm particularly fond of Coolermaster fans, which have a pretty good CFM vs dBm ratio most of the time. Cougars are pretty good too.

Personally, I wouldn't recommend BitFenix fans because they're overpriced for their specs.



Chances are that the 2500k clocked itself down because of the high temps. You should be fine.

I'd like to keep my system as quiet as possible (despite what I edited in a few posts up to say noise isn't a factor), but a mix of the two would probably be best.
 

bbd23

Member
guys im not sure if this is the right place for this but my computer has been acting up today.

anytime i try to play a game it just black screens and restarts my computer by itself. Ive tried rolling back drivers, decided to do a clean install of drivers but now the geforce thing is stuck at the end on "installing 3D vision driver"

GTX 970 here.

its making me very sad lads.
 

Soodanim

Member
guys im not sure if this is the right place for this but my computer has been acting up today.

anytime i try to play a game it just black screens and restarts my computer by itself. Ive tried rolling back drivers, decided to do a clean install of drivers but now the geforce thing is stuck at the end on "installing 3D vision driver"

GTX 970 here.

its making me very sad lads.

My update got stuck on the 3D Vision part the other day too, I just killed the task and it was fine. I don't use that 3D nonsense so I wouldn't know if it broke anything anyway, I just let it install because it's usually quicker to just let it do the express installation.
 

SLX

Banned
So if I get the Asus VG248QE, and I want to game at 144hz, would I need to upgrade to a 980ti? I want to play games at ultra/max settings.
 
Alright, friend needs some serious help. The freezing issues keep happening. Here's what we're dealing with.

Mobo: Asrock z97 Pro4
GPU: Sapphire R9 280x
CPU: i5 4690k
Memory: Ballistix crucial sport 2x4GB DDR3

So he's getting these random freezes, where the monitor stays on but everything becomes unresponsive. in one case he was in the middle of typing and his computer just started spamming T until it froze. We've been in the middle of driver updates for quite a while, since his internet was moving pretty slow for a while until we installed the drivers for his wireless adapter.

At this point, I'm at a loss to figure out what's wrong. his bios is on 1.80, and I'm trying to avoid doing a bios update at this point because if it gets screwed up the whole thing could brick. What I'm recommending him at this point is that he just plug in a CD Drive that he has laying around and restore windows to the point we set up before we started installing drivers, and that he just use the disks that came with all his stuff in order to get all the drivers he needs, even though they might not be the most updated. I'm worried that we've missed some drivers and at this point I have no clue what could be missing.

Could it be bad memory? bad mobo? Should we just do the rollback and CD install drivers method?

Starting to feel really bad, because I'm the one who encouraged him to build, promising him it was easy, and he's having a ton of problems.
 

RGM79

Member
Alright, friend needs some serious help. The freezing issues keep happening. Here's what we're dealing with.

Mobo: Asrock z97 Pro4
GPU: Sapphire R9 280x
CPU: i5 4690k
Memory: Ballistix crucial sport 2x4GB DDR3

So he's getting these random freezes, where the monitor stays on but everything becomes unresponsive. in one case he was in the middle of typing and his computer just started spamming T until it froze. We've been in the middle of driver updates for quite a while, since his internet was moving pretty slow for a while until we installed the drivers for his wireless adapter.

At this point, I'm at a loss to figure out what's wrong. his bios is on 1.80, and I'm trying to avoid doing a bios update at this point because if it gets screwed up the whole thing could brick. What I'm recommending him at this point is that he just plug in a CD Drive that he has laying around and restore windows to the point we set up before we started installing drivers, and that he just use the disks that came with all his stuff in order to get all the drivers he needs, even though they might not be the most updated. I'm worried that we've missed some drivers and at this point I have no clue what could be missing.

Could it be bad memory? bad mobo? Should we just do the rollback and CD install drivers method?

Starting to feel really bad, because I'm the one who encouraged him to build, promising him it was easy, and he's having a ton of problems.

Unfortunately, my advice is to start from a clean slate. Reinstall Windows, get the latest drivers from the ASRock website, and consider updating the BIOS.
 

The Llama

Member
Unfortunately, my advice is to start from a clean slate. Reinstall Windows, get the latest drivers from the ASRock website, and consider updating the BIOS.

This plus double check the build, make sure everything is assembled correctly (wires pushed in all the way, etc.).
 
Unfortunately, my advice is to start from a clean slate. Reinstall Windows, get the latest drivers from the ASRock website, and consider updating the BIOS.

We were trying to avoid all the bloatware that mobo manufacturers can give you, but should we just download everything that isn't a utility from here? I feel like there are some drivers missing there, too. I don't see a USB driver or anything like that. Initially what we did was just download the app shop or whatever, because, at least with MSI, live update is pretty good about detecting what you're missing and updating it, so I figured Asrock would be just as good with their utility.

As for order of installation, what should we do? No wireless driver makes the downloads painfully slow, and I'm worried doing the wireless driver first could cause issues. He's unable to switch to ethernet temporarily unfortunately.

Also, for reinstalling windows, should we use one of the reset your pc options built into windows 8, or just re-boot from the USB key that windows is on? Is there an advantage to one over the other?

My current plan is this: Reinstall windows. Get wireless drivers. Get ASRock mobo drivers. Get Intel chipset drivers from intel. Get GPU drivers. Anything I'm missing? I figure if it's not fixed after all that, then we do the BIOS update. Or are we better off doing that first?
 

RGM79

Member
We were trying to avoid all the bloatware that mobo manufacturers can give you, but should we just download everything that isn't a utility from here? I feel like there are some drivers missing there, too. I don't see a USB driver or anything like that. Initially what we did was just download the app shop or whatever, because, at least with MSI, live update is pretty good about detecting what you're missing and updating it, so I figured Asrock would be just as good with their utility.

As for order of installation, what should we do? No wireless driver makes the downloads painfully slow, and I'm worried doing the wireless driver first could cause issues. He's unable to switch to ethernet temporarily unfortunately.

Also, for reinstalling windows, should we use one of the reset your pc options built into windows 8, or just re-boot from the USB key that windows is on? Is there an advantage to one over the other?

My current plan is this: Reinstall windows. Get wireless drivers. Get ASRock mobo drivers. Get Intel chipset drivers from intel. Get GPU drivers. Anything I'm missing? I figure if it's not fixed after all that, then we do the BIOS update. Or are we better off doing that first?

If you're worried about bloatware, just don't install the utilities then. As I understand it, basic USB support is covered under the default drivers that come with Windows or the Intel chipset drivers you can download from the ASRock website.

There's no need to stick to any particular order when installing drivers. Windows shouldn't care. I don't think you should have a problem installing wifi drivers first. I'd suggest downloading all of the drivers and then copying them over to the new PC so you won't have to download them from the new PC itself.

As far as I know, the Windows 8 reset ability could do the trick, but here we want to be sure we're starting from a clean slate, so I'd suggest reinstalling from the Windows installer on the USB drive.

Flashing BIOS is relatively safe if you're doing it the right way (never do it from within Windows), but as you say it is dangerous in that if it goes wrong or is interrupted, you will have a dead motherboard. As long as you're flashing the BIOS from a DOS prompt or from within the ASRock's built in BIOS updating option in the BIOS menu, you're 99.9% safe.

Read these instructions for using the ASRock "Instant Flash" motherboard BIOS updating option, it's a fairly painless process. Easier than updating the BIOS from DOS, anyway.
 
If you're worried about bloatware, just don't install the utilities then. As I understand it, basic USB support is covered under the default drivers that come with Windows or the Intel chipset drivers you can download from the ASRock website.

There's no need to stick to any particular order when installing drivers. Windows shouldn't care. I don't think you should have a problem installing wifi drivers first. I'd suggest downloading all of the drivers and then copying them over to the new PC so you won't have to download them from the new PC itself.

As far as I know, the Windows 8 reset ability could do the trick, but here we want to be sure we're starting from a clean slate, so I'd suggest reinstalling from the Windows installer on the USB drive.

Flashing BIOS is relatively safe if you're doing it the right way (never do it from within Windows), but as you say it is dangerous in that if it goes wrong or is interrupted, you will have a dead motherboard. As long as you're flashing the BIOS from a DOS prompt or from within the ASRock's built in BIOS updating option in the BIOS menu, you're 99.9% safe.

Read these instructions for using the ASRock "Instant Flash" motherboard BIOS updating option, it's a fairly painless process. Easier than updating the BIOS from DOS, anyway.

Alright, and the windows re-install is literally the same exact process as before, as far as booting from USB and just following the on screen prompts? if we select the drive it's already installed on, it'll format it for us?

I have him checking his part seatings now. We're going to reinstall windows, then do the wireless drivers, the mobo drivers, and the graphics drivers. see if it works from there, and then do a bios update if it still doesn't. And then...well, who knows what happens after that. One step at a time.

So like I said he's checking his seatings, and he found this tiny, tiny black dot on the contacts of his GPU. Something to be concerned about? This GPU has been in for less than 24 hours. You can see it in more or less the middle of the pic.

FMN8Ked.jpg
 

AJLma

Member
Skylake in August, and they're debuting with the Enthusiast grade.

Is Skylake expected to be 6-8 core like Haswell-E?
 

RGM79

Member
Skylake in August, and they're debuting with the Enthusiast grade.

Is Skylake expected to be 6-8 core like Haswell-E?

No, just quad core and the top level i7 Skylake will be hyperthreaded, so business as usual. Skylake is actually supplanting and eventually replacing the consumer level socket 1150 product lines and not the enthusiast grade stuff, Intel won't want to undercut their enthusiast-tier X99 platform.

Alright, and the windows re-install is literally the same exact process as before, as far as booting from USB and just following the on screen prompts? if we select the drive it's already installed on, it'll format it for us?

I have him checking his part seatings now. We're going to reinstall windows, then do the wireless drivers, the mobo drivers, and the graphics drivers. see if it works from there, and then do a bios update if it still doesn't. And then...well, who knows what happens after that. One step at a time.

So like I said he's checking his seatings, and he found this tiny, tiny black dot on the contacts of his GPU. Something to be concerned about? This GPU has been in for less than 24 hours. You can see it in more or less the middle of the pic.

http://i.imgur.com/FMN8Ked.jpg

Yes, the process of reinstalling Windows is the same. When you get to the prompt where it asks you to choose where to install Windows to, there will be a button for advanced options. From there you can delete and/or format the hard drive before re-installing Windows. That is what you want.

That tiny dot is harmless, probably just part of the manufacturing process. It's not actually on the gold contacts, and should not cause anything to go wrong.
 
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