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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Yes, the process of reinstalling Windows is the same. When you get to the prompt where it asks you to choose where to install Windows to, there will be a button for advanced options. From there you can delete and/or format the hard drive before re-installing Windows. That is what you want.

That tiny dot is harmless, probably just part of the manufacturing process. It's not actually on the gold contacts, and should not cause anything to go wrong.

Okay. He reseated his RAM and he said it felt like it clicked a lot more this time than the first time he did it, and we're back in and he's streaming video and playing a game right now. We'll see if it freezes again. If it doesn't, I guess his RAM just wasn't installed correctly. If it does, then we start again.

Hopefully I'm not back in here in 15 minutes, but thank you for your help!
 

Odrion

Banned
Hmm, new motherboard + Skylake or a G-Sync monitor. Decisions, decisions.

Unless you're using a pre-Sandy bridge cpu go for the G-Sync. Skylake will be another incremental performance increase that, even with DDR4 and USB 3.1 added, probably won't make a big enough difference.

G-Sync, on the other hand, is fucking incredible.
 

Soodanim

Member
So if I get the Asus VG248QE, and I want to game at 144hz, would I need to upgrade to a 980ti? I want to play games at ultra/max settings.

Depends on the game. My 970 can get a constant 60+ (usually 80+) in GTAV with pretty high settings, and Tomb Raider (not DE) goes between 60 and 120 with a mix of high and ultra settings. I'd really recommend a G-Sync monitor if you're going to go 144hz though, as even with a 980ti you're not going to max everything forever and to jump between 120 and 60 fps with adaptive V-Sync will be horrible.

My monitor is the AOC G2460PG. 24" 1080p 144hz G-Sync, and between 144hz and G-Sync things are amazing. Variable framerates with no tearing ever is truly wondrous.
 

RGM79

Member
Whats the feel on seagate hard drives? I've always been a western digital guy, but right now I only have a 500gb drive. I was thinking of picking up two of these

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/seagate...ulti/8490625.p?id=1186003683968&skuId=8490625

and making them in raid 0 to put games on. Thoughts?

Paying $60 for 1TB isn't a good price. Ideally each 1TB drive should cost $50 or less. I personally prefer WD and Toshiba, but I'll list the Seagate option as well.

Toshiba 1TB 7200RPM for $48 each plus free shipping
WD Blue 1TB for $51
Seagate 1TB 7200RPM for $47
 
Hi everyone,

So, a friend of mine asked me for help to build him a new desktop. I gave him some advice, but my knowledge on PC specs has far been outdated, so I cant really help him that much. Hes a gamer, and a video/photographer, and his budget is around 600-700€, what do you guys suggest ? PC only (no monitor/peripherals). He wants to be able to play most games at decent settings and have a nice machine to edit his footage.
 
Whats the feel on seagate hard drives? I've always been a western digital guy, but right now I only have a 500gb drive. I was thinking of picking up two of these

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/seagate...ulti/8490625.p?id=1186003683968&skuId=8490625

and making them in raid 0 to put games on. Thoughts?

From experiences, I avoid Segate drives. I had bad experiences with them before bgut last year I had 3 3TB drives drop out one after the other. I have since RMA'd and sold those damned drives. I only rock Western Digitals but I had gotten the Seagates for a steal when I got my Synology NAS as well.

Never again.

Hi everyone,

So, a friend of mine asked me for help to build him a new desktop. I gave him some advice, but my knowledge on PC specs has far been outdated, so I cant really help him that much. Hes a gamer, and a video/photographer, and his budget is around 600-700€, what do you guys suggest ? PC only (no monitor/peripherals). He wants to be able to play most games at decent settings and have a nice machine to edit his footage.

Check out the first few posts in this thread. It has several builds (updated recently) that will fix the requirement.

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=944920
 

komplanen

Member
Re: Seagate. Was expecting this post so I didn't do it last time I checked this thread but it's gone for too long without it...

HDDFailures-BB1.jpg
 
Re: Seagate. Was expecting this post so I didn't do it last time I checked this thread but it's gone for too long without it...

HDDFailures-BB1.jpg

Yep, saw that before. I had a post on a popular PC website and people were telling me I was in the wrong, until I posted that image. You see that failure rate for the Seagate 3TB drives? Did not give me the warm and fuzzies at all.

Yay or Nay for my mini ITX gaming/HTPC??

GTX 970: http://slickdeals.net/f/7953015-msi...ght-300-w-free-ship-newegg?v=1&src=SiteSearch

Or should I just go with an R9 290?

Suggestions are welcome! I'd like to stay on the quiet and cool side, but that doesn't mean that I'm going to entirely avoid AMD or anything like that. I just want good price to performance, cool and quiet, and no coil whine

Go with the GTX 970. Less power consumption and overclocks better, unless you can get a R9 290 at dirt cheap. Either way, both will be beasts at 1080p.

Well that settles it then. Does anyone know if this wd is good for gaming? It doesn't say if its blue or black, just "mainstream"

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-main...ulti/9312067.p?id=1219011388237&skuId=9312067


Looks comparable to a WB 1TB blue. At that price I'd jump on it.
 

Whomeam

Neo Member
Is it worth waiting for the new Skylake processors? I want to start ordering tomorrow but if it's going to be worth it I might just wait.
 

j-wood

Member
Yep, saw that before. I had a post on a popular PC website and people were telling me I was in the wrong, until I posted that image. You see that failure rate for the Seagate 3TB drives? Did not give me the warm and fuzzies at all.



Go with the GTX 970. Less power consumption and overclocks better, unless you can get a R9 290 at dirt cheap. Either way, both will be beasts at 1080p.




Looks comparable to a WB 1TB blue. At that price I'd jump on it.

The blue is good for what I would use it for? OS is on an ssd, I want to out two of those in raid 0 and put my games on it
 

reKon

Banned
Yep, saw that before. I had a post on a popular PC website and people were telling me I was in the wrong, until I posted that image. You see that failure rate for the Seagate 3TB drives? Did not give me the warm and fuzzies at all.



Go with the GTX 970. Less power consumption and overclocks better, unless you can get a R9 290 at dirt cheap. Either way, both will be beasts at 1080p.




Looks comparable to a WB 1TB blue. At that price I'd jump on it.

That version is the LE. Don't know if a lot of people here own that version of the MSI
 
The blue is good for what I would use it for? OS is on an ssd, I want to out two of those in raid 0 and put my games on it

Yep, the blue is more than enough for the OS and games, I used to run with two 2TB Blues in raid 0 before I went with a SSD/HDD setup. Western Digital breaks down their drives into several editions:

Blue: Mainstream / 2 year warranty
Black: Performance / 5 year warranty
Purple: Surveillance recording storage / 2 year warranty
Red: Nas / Storage / 2 year warranty
Green: Green Power / economical / 2 year warranty

http://www.wdc.com/en/products/internal/desktop/
 

SHADES

Member
Is it worth waiting for the new Skylake processors? I want to start ordering tomorrow but if it's going to be worth it I might just wait.

It's entirely up to you and based upon your budget constraints. This will be the 1st iteration of skylake which will most likely be superseded a year after. Add to that the cost of the 1151 MOBO & DDR4 ram for what most likely a 10% increase in performance, but you'll be future-proofed (for the most part).

Or you could go with the 4790k Z97 (which overclocked would match skylake) add a better GPU/monitor etc and put those savings to use elsewhere in the build, but again it's down to budget, intended usage and what you hope to achieve.

Personally after doing a little research due to upgrading recently I avoided the skylake route because the costs outweighed the gains for me.
 

Kayant

Member
Yep, saw that before. I had a post on a popular PC website and people were telling me I was in the wrong, until I posted that image. You see that failure rate for the Seagate 3TB drives? Did not give me the warm and fuzzies at all.

Re: Seagate. Was expecting this post so I didn't do it last time I checked this thread but it's gone for too long without it...

HDDFailures-BB1.jpg

Anecdotally I have not had an issue with my 4+ year old seagate drive and my new 2TB SSHD one(8+ months so far). Personally don't put too much weight into that image because these failures are based on enterprise/servers workloads which are not comparable to our daily workloads.

Still the study can be useful IMO but not as an all in compassing result for hard drive failure.
 
Anecdotally I have not had an issue with my 4+ year old seagate drive and my new 2TB SSHD one(8+ months so far). Personally don't put too much weight into that image because these failures are based on enterprise/servers workloads which are not comparable to our daily workloads.

Still the study can be useful IMO but not as an all in compassing result for hard drive failure.

This is true, however in my example or instance, i had them in a 5 bay NAS that I was using for a VMware ESXI lab and running several web servers and 2 file servers off them. So I was taxing them pretty on a constant basis.

That version is the LE. Don't know if a lot of people here own that version of the MSI

From what I know about the card, it isn't factory overclocked, so it will run a bit lower than most other GTX 970s and hopefully less heat. Perfect for a HTPC, well depending on the case.
 

SRG01

Member
I'd like to keep my system as quiet as possible (despite what I edited in a few posts up to say noise isn't a factor), but a mix of the two would probably be best.

What's your location? I just looked up your Fractal Design silent fans on PCPartsPicker and it says that some US retailers still carry them? Canada as well.

At any rate, Prolimatech has some pretty beefy fans with a better CFM:dBa ratio, at a similar price point too. Of course, spec sheets can lie :/
 

M.D

Member
How am I going to benefit from a 144Hz considering 99% of my games won't be running at super high frame-rates?

Can you feel the differnce at 60 fps? Or outside of gaming?
 

Quote

Member
The 980 Ti is here!

BcGa9PEl.jpg

fRfMOjUl.jpg


I ran the FFXIV: Heavensward Benchmark and i'm loving the results!

4KC75ng.png

VhK0wK0.png


That's at max settings with DX11 @ 1440p. The average frame rate was 56 vs. 84. The gap is probably a little wider because I noticed that water tessellation was set to standard with the 970 while I had it at high on the 980 Ti. I'd run the 970 again but I have it all packed up to be returned but it shouldn't be that huge of a difference.
 

joecanada

Member
this link should probably be more accurate for you

here's my attempt at a $600 build w/o case or optical drive (assuming your existing case is ITX)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4150 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($139.99 @ NCIX)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ Memory Express)
Motherboard: MSI H81I Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($72.37 @ DirectCanada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($78.99 @ Memory Express)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.75 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R7 260X 2GB Video Card ($155.06 @ TigerDirect Canada)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $586.14
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-06 14:01 EST-0500

more or less better everything. you can also drop the CPU cooler and put that extra $40 toward... well, anything (but mostly GPU or CPU).

Hey pcgaf had some tax issues but ready to pull the trigger on this. Any sales or updates I should consider?
 
Hey pcgaf had some tax issues but ready to pull the trigger on this. Any sales or updates I should consider?
CPU: Intel Core i3-4150 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($139.99 @ NCIX)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ Memory Express)
Motherboard: MSI H81I Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($72.37 @ DirectCanada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($78.99 @ Memory Express)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.75 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R7 260X 2GB Video Card ($155.06 @ TigerDirect Canada)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $586.14
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-06 14:01 EST-0500


Depending if you plan on upgrading the CPU later on, I would say swap the i3 with the Pentinum G3258 and use the money saved and get a better mobo. Other than swap the R7 260x with a R9 270x, the prices have dropped so you'll be able to snag one for 10-15 dollars more.
 

reKon

Banned
It if works it works, if it's cheaper than so be it. Honestly you're likely getting cards that people sold / traded in to step-up.

At that price it's a steal.

man, it's just that 1 year warranty that's getting to me...

how much do batman arkham knight keys go for now? Haha. Those have to be dropping in value.
 
What is the computer going to be used for? I can see some ways to save money by going with alternative parts.

You seem to be interested in a white color scheme (motherboard and RAM), would you be open to choosing differently colored parts?

If this PC is mainly about playing games, then I recommend the cheaper i5 4690K instead. Both it and the i7 4790K are quad core processors, the only major differences are the 4790K having a slightly higher default clock speed (overclocking will fix that) and hyperthreading (each core acts like two virtual cores). For most games hyperthreading is unnecessary when the processor is already a quad core, as few games take advantage of more than 4 threads. In multiple tests by different websites, there is only a very slight difference betweent he 4690K and 4790K when it comes to game framerate performance (Anandtech/Techspot/Bit-Tech). Otherwise if you will be doing other things that do make use of hyperthreading up to 8 threads (video editing/encoding, computational tasks, etc) then the 4790K will be put to better use and would be preferable.

Do you prefer a water cooler for the looks and more open space inside the case? If you don't mind going with an air cooler, there are cheaper air coolers that perform similarly to the Corsair H105, such as the Phanteks TC14PE ($75~85 in a variety of colors) or Noctua NH-D14 ($75) and NH-D15 ($90). Otherwise the budget choice would be the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo ($28), it offers good performance for an excellent price and will handle moderate overclocking up to and in the 4.5GHz range.

As for the graphics card, it's just a minor difference but the EVGA GTX 970 SSC ($321 after $15 rebate) is faster than the Asus Strix going by the specs while costing nearly the same after rebate.

Do you really need a DVD drive and sound card? If not you can cut over $40 off the cost of your build. Motherboard sound chipsets are good enough for most people so unless you have a rather nice set of headphones that you know won't work with motherboard sound chipsets, then you can probably skip it. DVD drives have largely been replaced by USB drives and online distribution like Steam. You can even officially install Windows by USB drive (and it loads faster than from a disc).
Thank you for the reply. I may drop the cpu down because it will be almost strictly gaming. Are water coolers louder or quieter, in general than say the 212 evo. I mostly just wanted it because I've never had one and wanted to try one out.
 

RGM79

Member
Thank you for the reply. I may drop the cpu down because it will be almost strictly gaming. Are water coolers louder or quieter, in general than say the 212 evo. I mostly just wanted it because I've never had one and wanted to try one out.

It is hard to say because some water coolers are loud and some are quiet. Also, different reviewers have different testing methods. HardOCP claims that at 4 feet away they measured the H105 at 50.3 dBA. Guru3D says that at 2.4 feet away, they measured the H105 at 39 dBA.

I'm more inclined to believe HardOCP on this matter, the H105 doesn't quite have a silent reputation from what I've read.
 
It is hard to say because some water coolers are loud and some are quiet. Also, different reviewers have different testing methods. HardOCP claims that at 4 feet away they measured the H105 at 50.3 dBA. Guru3D says that at 2.4 feet away, they measured the H105 at 39 dBA.

I'm more inclined to believe HardOCP on this matter, the H105 doesn't quite have a silent reputation from what I've read.

Keep in mind that this is due to the fans included, which you can swap out for a quieter operation. I switched out the fans on my H100i and I can't hear anything from the unit and I gained more CFM to boot.
 

Mystic654

Member
I need some Storage drives for my new PC build, I'm just not sure what one to go with. I was going to go with WD Black drives until everyone told me how loud and annoying they sound. WD Greens I'm told have issues and to avoid them. Now I'm not sure what drives to buy. I was looking at Seagate (STBD6000100) but not sure if I want to buy Seagate due to high failrate they had in the past(Including four bad drives I had). Would NAS drives be an option for me(Like the HGST Deskstar NAS)? I have 0 interest in setting up a Raid drive setup. a few people have told me get them and just set them up like normal drives.


Drive Needs to be 4tb to 6tb Range, prefer 6tb with 7200 RPM. However since these are only storage drives I think 5400 RPM would be fine.

Drive 1: SSD (Main OS)

Drive 2: WD Blue 1TB for my Video Recording

Drive 3 to 5: ? For Storage
 
Finished my build and have been playing with it for a couple days. Pretty pleased so far.

elBoYPw.png


Parts: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/XdQqMp
Pics: http://imgur.com/gallery/Je7yg/
Love the look of the Define S, probably gonna go with that myself.
I plan on building a pc at the end of the year, How has the Kraken been for you noise wise? I would just go with air but water looks so much better, and seeing as the case has a window it might as well look nice.
I'm having a harder time choosing the cpu cooler than anything else.
 

RGM79

Member
I need some Storage drives for my new PC build, I'm just not sure what one to go with. I was going to go with WD Black drives until everyone told me how loud and annoying they sound. WD Greens I'm told have issues and to avoid them. Now I'm not sure what drives to buy. I was looking at Seagate (STBD6000100) but not sure if I want to buy Seagate due to high failrate they had in the past(Including four bad drives I had). Would NAS drives be an option for me(Like the HGST Deskstar NAS)? I have 0 interest in setting up a Raid drive setup. a few people have told me get them and just set them up like normal drives.


Drive Needs to be 4tb to 6tb Range, prefer 6tb with 7200 RPM. However since these are only storage drives I think 5400 RPM would be fine.

Drive 1: SSD (Main OS)

Drive 2: WD Blue 1TB for my Video Recording

Drive 3 to 5: ? For Storage

I feel like you've asked this question before. I think I recommended you get Toshiba or Hitachi for high capacity. NAS drives are fine, they just have some kind of slightly different firmware that is optimized for NAS applications, somehow.

All right gentlemen. If you guys don't see any issues with this setup, i'll be purchasing it tomorrow. Let me know if you see anything wrong at all.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/pD9cLk

A man after my own heart. Your build is pretty close to what I'd recommend. I'd maybe only choose slightly different parts.

Building my friend a pc. His budget is $900ish. I already have the mobo and case. How's this build?
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/w7VWvK

The Kingston V300 SSD is not recommended for poor performance and shady bait-and-switch on the construction and parts by Kingston.

Corsair H60 is too expensive for the performance, the 212 Evo is cheaper and offers slightly lower performance, or go with a slightly more expensive and effective high end air cooler. If your friend isn't doing any extreme overclocking, the 212 Evo will serve him just fine.

Does he really need a DVD drive? That's an easy place to save money if he can live without one and use steam and USB drives instead.

Here's what I'd recommend. It's a little high at $940, but it offers much more value:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Pro4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($165.05 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.74 @ Other World Computing)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card ($314.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: MSI Ravager ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: XFX Core Edition 650W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $937.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-02 23:54 EDT-0400

  • Cheaper but very effective air cooler (great for moderate overclocking)
  • Faster RAM for just $2 more
  • 500GB quality SSD that can hold a lot more
  • slightly faster EVGA GTX 970 that is still cheaper after rebate
  • stronger XFX 650 watt power supply

If $940 is too steep, then you can cut back on the SSD and get a 250GB model or something.
 

joecanada

Member
I
Can the 212 fit in your case? It's pretty big...

Meh I'll buy a case if need be. Also gonna upgrade to an i5 I think... Everything else looking good. Agree don't need cooler Thanks all..

Edit - hey do you guys just order software at same time ? Just from same places or like an Amazon?
 
I feel like you've asked this question before. I think I recommended you get Toshiba or Hitachi for high capacity. NAS drives are fine, they just have some kind of slightly different firmware that is optimized for NAS applications, somehow.



A man after my own heart. Your build is pretty close to what I'd recommend. I'd maybe only choose slightly different parts.



The Kingston V300 SSD is not recommended for poor performance and shady bait-and-switch on the construction and parts by Kingston.

Corsair H60 is too expensive for the performance, the 212 Evo is cheaper and offers slightly lower performance, or go with a slightly more expensive and effective high end air cooler. If your friend isn't doing any extreme overclocking, the 212 Evo will serve him just fine.

Does he really need a DVD drive? That's an easy place to save money if he can live without one and use steam and USB drives instead.

Here's what I'd recommend. It's a little high at $940, but it offers much more value:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Pro4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($165.05 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.74 @ Other World Computing)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card ($314.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: MSI Ravager ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: XFX Core Edition 650W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $937.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-02 23:54 EDT-0400

  • Cheaper but very effective air cooler (great for moderate overclocking)
  • Faster RAM for just $2 more
  • 500GB quality SSD that can hold a lot more
  • slightly faster EVGA GTX 970 that is still cheaper after rebate
  • stronger XFX 650 watt power supply

If $940 is too steep, then you can cut back on the SSD and get a 250GB model or something.
Thanks. I'll go to he lower ssd and go from there. Is xfx a reliable psu brand?
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks. I'll go to he lower ssd and go from there. Is xfx a reliable psu brand?
If you're going to go with a smaller SSD, then I recommend the Crucial BX100 250GB ($85) instead of the Samsung 850 Evo 250GB ($105), it offers excellent competitive performance for a very low price per GB, and all around excellent reviews from places like Techreport. Yes, it's technically not as fast as the 850 Evo, but the money saved is worth the differences of a few seconds or fractions of a second saved that you'll never notice.

I'd take XFX over low end Corsair any day. The fact that it costs less and has higher wattage are just bonuses. All XFX models are manufactured by Seasonic, and are fairly high quality. The specific model I recommended is the P1-650S-NLB9, it has excellent reviews from multiple independent websites.

Hmm, with the lower cost 250GB SSD, the build now runs about $860 after rebates ($905 before rebates). You could opt for a few fancier parts or just pocket the money left over.

Edit: I just noticed that the PSU I recommended is a non-modular model. If you prefer modular instead, then there's this Antec High Current Gamer 620 watt model for $60 after $20 rebate. It has bronze efficiency rating and semi-modular cables like the Corsair model you were looking at. I'll also recommend these two EVGA models: Supernova GS 650 watt gold rated fully modular or the Supernova B2 750 watt bronze rated semi-modular models, both at $65 after discounts and rebates.
 

bbd23

Member
guys im not sure if this is the right place for this but my computer has been acting up today.

anytime i try to play a game it just black screens and restarts my computer by itself. Ive tried rolling back drivers, decided to do a clean install of drivers but now the geforce thing is stuck at the end on "installing 3D vision driver"

GTX 970 here.

its making me very sad lads.

well i switched from DVI to HDMI and that fixed it...is that normal?
 

Mystic654

Member
I've heard of Fry's selling used items as new, now it looks like Newegg is doing the same thing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sW_ypPNpU8A

Video has been removed by User. hmm.

I always felt Newegg was a bit iffy. Nothing is ever wrapped in plastic like when you get an item from the store. However that being said I got two items from them recently all look in perfect condition original packaging with software included.
 

knitoe

Member
Any 4k monitor recs? Budget is $1k.

Will drive via single 980TI. Playing older games for now.
The only recommended one is the Acer XB280HK GSync, but it's a TN panel. If you want IPS, you will have to wait. Asus and Acer will be releasing one at some point.
 

Alucrid

Banned
So my PC died and I could use some advice since I'm just gonna start from scratch now.

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($146.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Trident X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($165.05 @ Amazon)
Video Card: ???
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($107.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: ???
Total: $890.98

Is the 4790K a huge performance increase over the 4690K? Any suggestions on better motherboards? Also need a graphics card. I don't think I want to pony up enough for a 980. Only running at 1080, preferably 60 fps, don't mind turning down settings too much. Finally just because I'm getting a nice case I'd like a modular power supply so it's nice and neat. Unless the cable management in the R5 make a modular one pointless. Probably want to end up at about ~$1300 or so.
 
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