Dries
Member
Good stuff man, thanks.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Good stuff man, thanks.
TheSpoiler
Member
She went ahead and found something on her own. Luckily it's just enough to get me through, says game-debate.com and a few other places at least.
Nice! No big drops in ambient temps in the case from taking out the rear intake, I mostly had it there to maintain positive air pressure.
Removing the cage was super easy, first time using a dremel myself. They are total 6 rivets I removed and dremel out the side. the picture will tell you, the red ones are rivets and green line is to dremel cut it. I did those ripped the cage out then did a bit of sanding with the dremel to clean up the edges. It looks really good, like it was never there.
Felix Lighter
Member
I have a question about a multi-monitor setup I want to try. Currently, my PC is connected to my monitor via displayport and my tv through HDMI that is run through the wall via cat6. The TV is in another room so I never output to both displays simultaneously except in very specific situations.
What I would like to do is have 2 monitors + the television. I want the 2 monitors for typical multi-monitor extended desktop and leave the television independent. Basically like 2 groups. I either want to output to the 2 monitors or the television but not all 3. Is this something that can be done. I guess one extra complication is that the main monitor is GSync the other monitor is a 60hz IPS screen. I want to, in most cases, use the GSync monitor with GSync enabled when playing games. I've been looking around a bit but I'm having trouble finding others with a similar setup.
What I would like to do is have 2 monitors + the television. I want the 2 monitors for typical multi-monitor extended desktop and leave the television independent. Basically like 2 groups. I either want to output to the 2 monitors or the television but not all 3. Is this something that can be done. I guess one extra complication is that the main monitor is GSync the other monitor is a 60hz IPS screen. I want to, in most cases, use the GSync monitor with GSync enabled when playing games. I've been looking around a bit but I'm having trouble finding others with a similar setup.
Is this a good motherboard in terms of build quality? Failure rate? Etc? The CPU is going to be a FX-8320. Decisions been made on that front.
ASRock 980DE3/U3S3 ATX AM3+ @NewEgg @PCPartsPicker
Was going to pick up a Asus M5A97 R2.0 ATX AM3+ but it's sold out or more expensive then I'm willing to spend. Shouldn't have waited for so long.
Thanks.
ASRock 980DE3/U3S3 ATX AM3+ @NewEgg @PCPartsPicker
Was going to pick up a Asus M5A97 R2.0 ATX AM3+ but it's sold out or more expensive then I'm willing to spend. Shouldn't have waited for so long.
Thanks.
Confounding Factor
Banned
I want to thank the OP and the contributing members in this thread for the thankless job they do helping others. I really appreciate a thread like this exists.
I've already gone beyond the lifecycle of my graphics card and looking for suggestions on what I should replace it with. Here are my current specs:
CPU - I7 2600K
MOBO - Asus Maximus IV Extreme P67
GFX - EVGA Classified Ultra GTX580 3GB
RAM - 16GB Ripjaw X
I don't think the other parts in the PC matter for this query.
Should I just go forward and build a brand new PC, in particular I'm looking at the "Excellent - Best Overall" from the OP?
Or should I just swap out the 580 I have with the GTX970 4GB, and wait a few more years before doing a new build?
Thing is I only game in 1080p but I do like to crank the graphics settings to max on games, but still maintain 60FPS. I know a lot of people here are using resolutions beyond what I have and FPS, but I am very happy gaming in this res currently. I plan on playing some new releases that I don't think my 580 can handle very well so that's why I'm looking to upgrade the card.
And yes I know the MOBO, CPU, and GFX card I bought previously were completely idiotic purchases.
Thanks again to all!
I've already gone beyond the lifecycle of my graphics card and looking for suggestions on what I should replace it with. Here are my current specs:
CPU - I7 2600K
MOBO - Asus Maximus IV Extreme P67
GFX - EVGA Classified Ultra GTX580 3GB
RAM - 16GB Ripjaw X
I don't think the other parts in the PC matter for this query.
Should I just go forward and build a brand new PC, in particular I'm looking at the "Excellent - Best Overall" from the OP?
Or should I just swap out the 580 I have with the GTX970 4GB, and wait a few more years before doing a new build?
Thing is I only game in 1080p but I do like to crank the graphics settings to max on games, but still maintain 60FPS. I know a lot of people here are using resolutions beyond what I have and FPS, but I am very happy gaming in this res currently. I plan on playing some new releases that I don't think my 580 can handle very well so that's why I'm looking to upgrade the card.
And yes I know the MOBO, CPU, and GFX card I bought previously were completely idiotic purchases.
Thanks again to all!
Overclock the CPU, buy a 970, and you'll be good for another few years.
Hey all, a little help if possible.
I am wanting to get hold of a cheap mini PC that can run XBMC easily and will work for steam home streaming.
Is this good enough:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MSI-Windo...t=UK_Computing_DesktopPCs&hash=item1c49cd3f3d
I am wanting to get hold of a cheap mini PC that can run XBMC easily and will work for steam home streaming.
Is this good enough:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MSI-Windo...t=UK_Computing_DesktopPCs&hash=item1c49cd3f3d
Femmeworth
Banned
[Basic Desktop Questions]
Your Current Specs: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor / G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory (What I have already bought.)
Budget: $700 - $800 USD excluding the above.
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming 5?, Gaming 5, Emulation (PS2/Wii) 2, Video Editing 2, Streaming games in HD 1, 3D/Model work (and what program) 5 (AutuCAD, Revit, ect.), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 5.
Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? 1360 x 768 Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor? I would like to. Might have to be down the road.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? Perfect 30 FPS would be good. Used to consoles. >_> How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? Don't know.
Looking to reuse any parts?: No, but I'll probably transfer over my copy of Windows 7.
When will you build?: Within the next month. Do you have a deadline? Early to mid February.
Will you be overclocking?: Most likely.
Getting more serious about figuring out what to buy so I filled out the form thing. Looking for suggestions in addition to what Haz recommends in the OP. For a GPU, I am thinking about the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE.
Edit: This is a totally new PC, to be clear.
Your Current Specs: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor / G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory (What I have already bought.)
Budget: $700 - $800 USD excluding the above.
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming 5?, Gaming 5, Emulation (PS2/Wii) 2, Video Editing 2, Streaming games in HD 1, 3D/Model work (and what program) 5 (AutuCAD, Revit, ect.), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 5.
Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? 1360 x 768 Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor? I would like to. Might have to be down the road.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? Perfect 30 FPS would be good. Used to consoles. >_> How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? Don't know.
Looking to reuse any parts?: No, but I'll probably transfer over my copy of Windows 7.
When will you build?: Within the next month. Do you have a deadline? Early to mid February.
Will you be overclocking?: Most likely.
Getting more serious about figuring out what to buy so I filled out the form thing. Looking for suggestions in addition to what Haz recommends in the OP. For a GPU, I am thinking about the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE.
Edit: This is a totally new PC, to be clear.
Jacksinthe
Banned
Welp I had to replace yet ANOTHER Crucial MX100 for freezing/data corruption
My issues:
HDD would randomly peg 100% usage for anywhere from 5 seconds to 2 minutes making the entire machine unusable. Upon un-freezing the computer would either come back to normal, or blue screen with the Win8 sad face and reboot, at which point, my BIOS would not recognize my drive - running into BIOS it was not even showing. I would need to shut down, remove all power, unplug the drive, plug it back in, power it back up, select it in the bios then bam - would fire back up again.
It would do this a few times per week.
2nd drive
Same thing
3rd drive - didn't even open it - eBayed it since i would not want to give it a shot. Bought a WD Black, instead.
Looking on Crucial's forums I am not the only one as they have had multiple upon multiple posts about the MX100 freezing, locking, data corruption, etc. Pretty much every problem I am having.
I would say to edit the OP and remove it but many people DO use these drives without issue, however, the sheer volume of support threads on Crucial's site flips a red flag, for me, at least. Moreso than there should be for any electronic product. Seriously, their SSD forum is littered with posts on this issue. It's bonkers how bad it is
Sucks since I like Crucial.
Fairly pissed, to say the least. 3 times having to fresh install and reinstall all of my apps. At least all of my main projects are hosted on several other HDDs for data redundancy in case of things like this.
My issues:
HDD would randomly peg 100% usage for anywhere from 5 seconds to 2 minutes making the entire machine unusable. Upon un-freezing the computer would either come back to normal, or blue screen with the Win8 sad face and reboot, at which point, my BIOS would not recognize my drive - running into BIOS it was not even showing. I would need to shut down, remove all power, unplug the drive, plug it back in, power it back up, select it in the bios then bam - would fire back up again.
It would do this a few times per week.
2nd drive
Same thing
3rd drive - didn't even open it - eBayed it since i would not want to give it a shot. Bought a WD Black, instead.
Looking on Crucial's forums I am not the only one as they have had multiple upon multiple posts about the MX100 freezing, locking, data corruption, etc. Pretty much every problem I am having.
I would say to edit the OP and remove it but many people DO use these drives without issue, however, the sheer volume of support threads on Crucial's site flips a red flag, for me, at least. Moreso than there should be for any electronic product. Seriously, their SSD forum is littered with posts on this issue. It's bonkers how bad it is
Sucks since I like Crucial.Fairly pissed, to say the least. 3 times having to fresh install and reinstall all of my apps. At least all of my main projects are hosted on several other HDDs for data redundancy in case of things like this.
Femmeworth
Banned
Yikes, I was looking at one of those.Welp I had to replace yet ANOTHER Crucial MX100 for freezing/data corruption
My issues:
HDD would randomly peg 100% usage for anywhere from 5 seconds to 2 minutes making the entire machine unusable. Upon un-freezing the computer would either come back to normal, or blue screen with the Win8 sad face and reboot, at which point, my BIOS would not recognize my drive - running into BIOS it was not even showing. I would need to shut down, remove all power, unplug the drive, plug it back in, power it back up, select it in the bios then bam - would fire back up again.
It would do this a few times per week.
2nd drive
Same thing
3rd drive - didn't even open it - eBayed it since i would not want to give it a shot. Bought a WD Black, instead.
Looking on Crucial's forums I am not the only one as they have had multiple upon multiple posts about the MX100 freezing, locking, data corruption, etc. Pretty much every problem I am having.
I would say to edit the OP and remove it but many people DO use these drives without issue, however, the sheer volume of support threads on Crucial's site flips a red flag, for me, at least. Moreso than there should be for any electronic product. Seriously, their SSD forum is littered with posts on this issue. It's bonkers how bad it is
Fairly pissed, to say the least. 3 times having to fresh install and reinstall all of my apps. At least all of my main projects are hosted on several other HDDs for data redundancy in case of things like this.
michaelius
Banned
Nice! No big drops in ambient temps in the case from taking out the rear intake, I mostly had it there to maintain positive air pressure.
Removing the cage was super easy, first time using a dremel myself. They are total 6 rivets I removed and dremel out the side. the picture will tell you, the red ones are rivets and green line is to dremel cut it. I did those ripped the cage out then did a bit of sanding with the dremel to clean up the edges. It looks really good, like it was never there.
I hate cases with front mounted drive cages. So much space wasted when those can be safely moved to bottom near psu and on the back of case
Femmeworth
Banned
There are some deals going on for power supplies. http://slickdeals.net/f/7566780-gol...650w-corsair-70-after-30-rebate-free-shipping Should I grab this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139012 It's $69.99 after promo code and rebate.
Edit: Some of the reviews mention a chirping noise.
Edit: Some of the reviews mention a chirping noise.
Welp I had to replace yet ANOTHER Crucial MX100 for freezing/data corruption
My issues:
HDD would randomly peg 100% usage for anywhere from 5 seconds to 2 minutes making the entire machine unusable. Upon un-freezing the computer would either come back to normal, or blue screen with the Win8 sad face and reboot, at which point, my BIOS would not recognize my drive - running into BIOS it was not even showing. I would need to shut down, remove all power, unplug the drive, plug it back in, power it back up, select it in the bios then bam - would fire back up again.
It would do this a few times per week.
2nd drive
Same thing
3rd drive - didn't even open it - eBayed it since i would not want to give it a shot. Bought a WD Black, instead.
Looking on Crucial's forums I am not the only one as they have had multiple upon multiple posts about the MX100 freezing, locking, data corruption, etc. Pretty much every problem I am having.
I would say to edit the OP and remove it but many people DO use these drives without issue, however, the sheer volume of support threads on Crucial's site flips a red flag, for me, at least. Moreso than there should be for any electronic product. Seriously, their SSD forum is littered with posts on this issue. It's bonkers how bad it is
Fairly pissed, to say the least. 3 times having to fresh install and reinstall all of my apps. At least all of my main projects are hosted on several other HDDs for data redundancy in case of things like this.
Why I always recommend Samsung when prices are similar.
You mean $150 USD? That will get you the very best, I don't think there are any prebuilt water cooler kits that cost more than $150. What case do you have? That will determine what kind of water cooling radiator your case will fit. Actually, please list your overall specs. Are you going to be going for high end overclocking or something?
It won't be as cost-efficient as your Dark Rock Pro 2, but from Tweaktown's review and overall CPU cooler testing, something like the NZXT Kraken X61 ($124), Thermaltake Water 3.0 ($140), and the Swiftech H-220X ($137) will outperform the Dark Rock Pro 3.
Looks fine for the price.
It's super compact, but very low power. I don't know how well it'd handle anything above 720p, and unfortunately I don't have any experience with Steam home game streaming.
Not looking to run SLI in the future? You'll need 700 watts or more for that, but 650 watts will be more than enough for a single graphics card (barring monsters like the R9 295X2 and Titan models) and CPU overclocking.
That Corsair 650 watt model is a pretty good deal. I don't see anything cheaper I can recommend, everything else is non-modular and/or only bronze rated. I don't know about chirping, if you think the risk isn't worth it then other models I can recommend are the EVGA 600B for $45, Rosewill Capstone 650W for $77, and the Antec HCG-620M for $80.
Welp I had to replace yet ANOTHER Crucial MX100 for freezing/data corruption
My issues:
HDD would randomly peg 100% usage for anywhere from 5 seconds to 2 minutes making the entire machine unusable. Upon un-freezing the computer would either come back to normal, or blue screen with the Win8 sad face and reboot, at which point, my BIOS would not recognize my drive - running into BIOS it was not even showing. I would need to shut down, remove all power, unplug the drive, plug it back in, power it back up, select it in the bios then bam - would fire back up again.
It would do this a few times per week.
2nd drive
Same thing
3rd drive - didn't even open it - eBayed it since i would not want to give it a shot. Bought a WD Black, instead.
Looking on Crucial's forums I am not the only one as they have had multiple upon multiple posts about the MX100 freezing, locking, data corruption, etc. Pretty much every problem I am having.
I would say to edit the OP and remove it but many people DO use these drives without issue, however, the sheer volume of support threads on Crucial's site flips a red flag, for me, at least. Moreso than there should be for any electronic product. Seriously, their SSD forum is littered with posts on this issue. It's bonkers how bad it is
Fairly pissed, to say the least. 3 times having to fresh install and reinstall all of my apps. At least all of my main projects are hosted on several other HDDs for data redundancy in case of things like this.
Curious here so let me ask a few things
What was your full system spec?
You were using the Intel SATA 3 port and not a 3rd party port?
Exactly which driver packages did you install, and from which manufacturers website?
Did you install any disk related software? eg Acronis, O&O etc...
Its genuinely rare to get an SSD failure, even HDD reliability is in the 3% region, and SSDs in the 0.2-1% region, so too have 2 failures is very odd.
Im not blaming anyone, but my suspicion is driver or Win 8 update related rather than double drive failure. Considering after power off the drive acts normal, and within BIOS the drive is available. Also you had 0 issues with installing Windows multiple times, all of which had more R/W cycles than being in Windows itself.
Cheers for that, I hear the Asus revo's are brilliant.
Also I'm not sure it has to be all that powerful at all just able to decode h.264 or whatever it is called.
I think the main rig does the hard work.
Thanks for your effort, really appreciate it
Thats my PC. Corsair Air 540 with be quiet! fans, i7 4770K @ 4.0 Ghz cooled with be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 2, 2x Manli GTX970 @ 1350Mhz, Asus Sabertooth Z87 Mainboard, 2x4GB Corsair RAM (might upgrade to 16GB), Corsair RM750 PSU, Samsung 840 Pro SSD 256GB, 1TB WD Green HDD.
The NZXT Kraken X61 looks really good! I'm not going to overclock my CPU that much, I just want it because it looks better than a 10kg air cooler that's bending my mainboard
Would you stick with the fans that come with the watercooler or buy something like the Corsair SP140?
Hello! I bought a gaming PC from a friend who was upgrading a few years ago and I've slowly been upgrading its parts as needed. I've been mostly fine playing games, but the last few AAA titles I've tried haven't run quite where I'd like them to. I think I need a new CPU to complete the package that I have here, as that's the only thing I haven't touched so far, but I have no idea what to get and every time I look around for advice or explanations, my brain hurts. Here are my current specs, tell me if I'm on the right track and what kind of CPU I should look into getting.
Windows 7 64-bit
GPU: GeForce GTX 660
CPU: Intel Core i5 750
Motherboard: EVGA P55 SLI LE E653
12GB RAM
Windows 7 64-bit
GPU: GeForce GTX 660
CPU: Intel Core i5 750
Motherboard: EVGA P55 SLI LE E653
12GB RAM
Confounding Factor
Banned
Thank you! I know the OP didn't specify which brand to purchase, do you have any suggestions? I was looking at the Asus, MSI and EVGA models, because I'm familiar with them. Gigabyte looks good too.
Also, I just have it overclocked at 4.4GHz, but I haven't messed with any voltage changes. I'll have to look into it, I know I might be able to get to 5.1GHz with the CPU cooler I have.
Ok, I thought I'd ask this question. I bought the Asus vs239 H-P monitor recommended in the OP by Haz, and while I like it, I've been noticing that I can "see" faint vertical lines/grid lines all over the monitor screen- they're especially noticeable on light blue and yellow backgrounds/highlights (and at the top bar of my browser). Are my eyes just sensitive to this? I can see them with or without my contact lenses or glasses on. I would really like to know if there are any other great IPS panels that don't show this effect, because it is starting to be very annoying. I would also be willing to go back to TN (maybe the Asus 238 H-P doesn't do this?) if it meant not seeing these "lines" (never saw them on my old TN LG panel). Anyone else with this monitor see the pixel lines?
Jacksinthe
Banned
Almost the exact specs of the "great" build listed in the OP. I opted for the i5 and 760.
No 3rd party port.
Nvidia GeForce drivers
No disk utilites
Also, the drive was NOT recognized by the BIOS after crash until a complete power down and unplugging the drive completely, then re-installing the drive and powering on. If it was a Win8 issue with the SSD then I imagine upon reboot the drive would be fine and not need a complete shutdown/hardware uninstall.
Also - skim Crucial's forum - not just Win8 that has this issue. The similarities of issues across multiple OSs lead to a hardware fault and not an OS fault.
Also, installing windows doesn't have to mean the freeze will happen right there. It happened a few times a week - there were stretches where i went days without issue and times when it happened multiple times in a single day so when it happens isn't something I can pin down or anyone on Crucial's forum can nail. It's completely random. Some have had it only happen once and others it happens every few minutes. I feel lucky I managed to only have a few freezes and blue screens per week.
I'm fairly miffed about it since I love SSDs
adamantypants
Member
If you're at 4.4 at stock voltages, it might be worth a shot going higher. You probably won't need to but it's always fun to try.
As far as brands go, the main differences you'll see is the cooling setups. I like EVGA's cooler design but I remember at launch they had issues with the cooler alignment.
A new CPU will need a new motherboard, and that will run about $300 for a decent set. Try overclocking your CPU. It's not quite as good as i5 2500K (which more or less replaced the 750), but you should be able to get a 4.0-4.2GHz overclock on air cooling relatively easy. Depends on what CPU cooler you have, though.
Almost the exact specs of the "great" build listed in the OP. I opted for the i5 and 760.
No 3rd party port.
Nvidia GeForce drivers
No disk utilites
Also, the drive was NOT recognized by the BIOS after crash until a complete power down and unplugging the drive completely, then re-installing the drive and powering on. If it was a Win8 issue with the SSD then I imagine upon reboot the drive would be fine and not need a complete shutdown/hardware uninstall.
Also - skim Crucial's forum - not just Win8 that has this issue. The similarities of issues across multiple OSs lead to a hardware fault and not an OS fault.
Also, installing windows doesn't have to mean the freeze will happen right there. It happened a few times a week - there were stretches where i went days without issue and times when it happened multiple times in a single day so when it happens isn't something I can pin down or anyone on Crucial's forum can nail. It's completely random. Some have had it only happen once and others it happens every few minutes. I feel lucky I managed to only have a few freezes and blue screens per week.
I'm fairly miffed about it since I love SSDs
I know crucial have some issue that when a drive is not shutdown properly it requires the full power cycle to become available, so I think that could explain that.
Did you use Intel Rapid Start AHCI Drivers? Or did you use the standard Microsoft pre installed driver? That's where I thought your problem could have been, using these from non intel sites can be buggy, and generally the official ones are also buggy.
Yeah I went through the first 5 pages of their forum, a lot of people don't come back to give status updates so it's not exactly conclusive. Anyways see how a different brand goes.
Dual Blade
Member
Is it that much better to have the EVGA G2 750W over the EVGA G1 750W? I understand that the G2 is the superflower model and is universally praised, but right now the G1 is $60 cheaper before the MIR for the G2 ($30 USD MIR).
Here's my build: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/LBWFpg (CAD and prices are before MIR).
Kinda lazy to deal with the MIR and feeling the G2 could be overkill for a PC that I wont push for gaming (will overclock eventually). How ever I did read a review about the G1 having a louder than normal fan...
Also, how bad is my RAM? Got it for a very good price and a friend is offering his 8GB which would bring me to a total of 16GB. Timings are 11-11-11-28 I believe.
Here's my build: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/LBWFpg (CAD and prices are before MIR).
Kinda lazy to deal with the MIR and feeling the G2 could be overkill for a PC that I wont push for gaming (will overclock eventually). How ever I did read a review about the G1 having a louder than normal fan...
Also, how bad is my RAM? Got it for a very good price and a friend is offering his 8GB which would bring me to a total of 16GB. Timings are 11-11-11-28 I believe.
In an effort to clean up the inside of my of I've decided to try and mount my two ssd in the optical drive bay of my corsair 200r case. Anyone have any experience with this? If so, any recommendations on an adapter to use?
Something like this should do the trick?
Something like this should do the trick?
It's hard to say if the G1 is any good. There are no reviews and it's made by FSP Group, not Seasonic. Not that FSP is totally bad, but their reputation is sorta so-so. You generally want to get a decent PSU if possible - it's not that you should cheap out on the PSU if you're not pushing the system hard, but why bother risking it? It powers everything, you don't want it to die and take out other parts as well.
A-Data is alright, they just never seem to have RAM for a cheap price, I usually find Patriot, G.Skill, Crucial, etc for better prices.
Do you mean he's offering to give you or sell you his RAM? CAS 11 and 1600MHz is kind of high latency and low speed, not that great. 8GB of RAM is generally enough for most people, mainly only those doing media production like video editing or workstation processing will need 16GB or more. If you haven't bought the RAM yet, you can get 8GB of high speed memory for $79 CAD, I think the $9 extra is worth it.
8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X DDR3-1866 CAS9 for $79
8GB Mushkin Blackline DDR3-2133 CAS11 for $79
NoRéN;146010967 said:
Technically because SSDs have no moving parts, it's safe to leave them anywhere as long as they aren't loose and sliding around (don't want cables falling out or stress on the cables). I realized that the 200R has tool-less construction on the optical bays, so you can get an adaptor for that. Take your pick from this Newegg list.
Sorry, missed your post. If you're not looking for performance and will only do a slight overclock, then you can definitely save some money and stick with a cheaper and smaller water cooler like the NZXT Kraken X41 or Corsair H60/H80i, but they'll perform at around the same level as your current Dark Rock Pro 2, maybe, not much better. Stock fans will be fine, unless you're going for aesthetics.Thanks for your effort, really appreciate it
Thats my PC. Corsair Air 540 with be quiet! fans, i7 4770K @ 4.0 Ghz cooled with be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 2, 2x Manli GTX970 @ 1350Mhz, Asus Sabertooth Z87 Mainboard, 2x4GB Corsair RAM (might upgrade to 16GB), Corsair RM750 PSU, Samsung 840 Pro SSD 256GB, 1TB WD Green HDD.
The NZXT Kraken X61 looks really good! I'm not going to overclock my CPU that much, I just want it because it looks better than a 10kg air cooler that's bending my mainboard
Would you stick with the fans that come with the watercooler or buy something like the Corsair SP140?
Your heatsink isn't actually bending the motherboard, is it? Usually that isn't a problem, even for the largest heatsinks.
I just completed a new build last week using mx100s. I have a 256gb for OS/apps and a 512gb for steam/games. I haven't had any issues thus far, and can't beat the pricing. I got both drives at $0.37/GB which is awesome. Real world performance on these drives are the same so price was the decision maker.
element
Member
What does everyone do with old hardware?
I'm going through an entire platform change 1155 to 2011-3 and pretty much have to ditch everything but Graphics Card and SSD/HDD/Bluray.
I will have a 2500k, two Intel mobos, 16 GB of RAM (4 x 4GB), 460 GTX, Corsair 600T (downsizing) and Cooler Master N200 mATX case with no place to go.
I'm going through an entire platform change 1155 to 2011-3 and pretty much have to ditch everything but Graphics Card and SSD/HDD/Bluray.
I will have a 2500k, two Intel mobos, 16 GB of RAM (4 x 4GB), 460 GTX, Corsair 600T (downsizing) and Cooler Master N200 mATX case with no place to go.
I sell it to friends or on like Craigslist.
All your old stuff is better than what I'm running at home
Ha! 3rd result in your link is actually that one i edited into my post. Favorite choice so far since i would be able to mount both my ssd side by side and it's black so it shouldn't stick out too much in the front of the case.
TC McQueen
Member
I just sold my GTX 560 Ti 448 core to some dude on eBay.
You pretty much have a complete PC and then some. It'd be worth selling as a midrange PC, keeping on hand as a living room PC for secondary purposes (home file server? media box?), or maybe family members could use it.
NoRéN;146034559 said:
Looks fine to me.
element
Member
Oh I could retro fit it to be a 100% working PC (i have enough spare HDDs), but I'm downsizing and going to a more distributed home network. My new main PC will just be for playing games. I have a NAS for storage for all my media and archive data. NUC for a tiny linux box, and MacBook Air. I also have Fire TV on all my TVs, so I don't really need something connected to my TV.
Seasoned Badger
Member
Does anyone know if there are any other cases with front panels that are arranged similar to these:
I don't want to trip over and damage the USB plugs that are sticking out of the case.
I don't want to trip over and damage the USB plugs that are sticking out of the case.
Are you putting the case on the floor, or on a desk?
Fractal makes cases with the front USB ports arranged facing upward.
So I got my system all built and everything. Seemed to be running great, except I have this weird issue where the computer will just shutdown and start back up. Nothing seems to trigger it in particular. Temps for CPU and such look good. I bought 2 GB sticks of RAM and I just tried taking one out to see if maybe it's bad RAM. So far so good, but it also went 12 hours from last night to this morning without a random reboot like that. It isn't blue screening as I have it set not to automatically reboot in Windows if it does blue screen.
Has anyone heard of a bad stick of RAM causing spontaneous reboots? This morning, I had gone into the BIOS to make a change on another issue I have where if I let the system sit for a while (sleep mode is turned off) and my Denon receiver is turned off, the display won't come on when I turn the receiver back on. Have to unplug and replug the HDMI and it shows up fine. It's a minor nuisance, though if anyone has any ideas on why it might occur, I would love to hear it. At any rate, I went into the BIOS to see if there might be some settings related to PCI-E or something and when I booted back into Windows it did the shutdown/turn back on thing within 30 seconds of getting into Windows. Then I played a game and it did it again. I played a game last night, though, and it never once did it, so not sure what causes it, but like I said, I've pulled out one of the sticks of RAM and it's been running some games for most of the day without issue.
As for what I built, I got:
Asus Maximus VII Gene motherboard
i7 4790K
2x8 GB DDR3 1866
GTX 980
512 MB SSD
2TB 7200 drive
Put it all in a nice Corsair Air 240 case. Runs games at max for all settings (tried Far Cry 4 and it looks and runs great).
Feeling stoked as this is the first computer I have built for myself since 2003, but annoyed at this weird issue I am experiencing. It's frustrating because every time I make a change to see if it fixed it, I just have to wait a while. Like with me removing the stick, I will probably let it go 24 hours before calling it fixed. Then I will put in the stick I took out to see if the problem comes back. Hopefully it really is bad RAM and I can just exchange it and that will be that, but I guess I figured something like that would manifest itself in a crash or blue screen. Maybe it does something weird with voltage and the motherboard shuts the system down to protect (I know that is enabled in the BIOS).
Any thoughts from anyone on the subject would be greatly appreciated.
Has anyone heard of a bad stick of RAM causing spontaneous reboots? This morning, I had gone into the BIOS to make a change on another issue I have where if I let the system sit for a while (sleep mode is turned off) and my Denon receiver is turned off, the display won't come on when I turn the receiver back on. Have to unplug and replug the HDMI and it shows up fine. It's a minor nuisance, though if anyone has any ideas on why it might occur, I would love to hear it. At any rate, I went into the BIOS to see if there might be some settings related to PCI-E or something and when I booted back into Windows it did the shutdown/turn back on thing within 30 seconds of getting into Windows. Then I played a game and it did it again. I played a game last night, though, and it never once did it, so not sure what causes it, but like I said, I've pulled out one of the sticks of RAM and it's been running some games for most of the day without issue.
As for what I built, I got:
Asus Maximus VII Gene motherboard
i7 4790K
2x8 GB DDR3 1866
GTX 980
512 MB SSD
2TB 7200 drive
Put it all in a nice Corsair Air 240 case. Runs games at max for all settings (tried Far Cry 4 and it looks and runs great).
Feeling stoked as this is the first computer I have built for myself since 2003, but annoyed at this weird issue I am experiencing. It's frustrating because every time I make a change to see if it fixed it, I just have to wait a while. Like with me removing the stick, I will probably let it go 24 hours before calling it fixed. Then I will put in the stick I took out to see if the problem comes back. Hopefully it really is bad RAM and I can just exchange it and that will be that, but I guess I figured something like that would manifest itself in a crash or blue screen. Maybe it does something weird with voltage and the motherboard shuts the system down to protect (I know that is enabled in the BIOS).
Any thoughts from anyone on the subject would be greatly appreciated.
Run memtest86, try different RAM configurations in different slot configurations. Nothing much else to recommend.
Thanks, will give it a try.
Anybody have the Asus 239 H-P IPS monitor? These lines I can see on Youtube videos and images during my browsing experience (very visible on blue and yellow as I mentioned before) are really pissing me off. When I use my mouse highlight there is literally pixel lines showing through the blue light everywhere.
If I can't find a fix for this problem I'm going to need another good recommendation for a great IPS monitor similar to the Asus with HDMI.
If I can't find a fix for this problem I'm going to need another good recommendation for a great IPS monitor similar to the Asus with HDMI.
Nostremitus
Member
I bought this one for my wife, she likes it and it was easy to build in. Having an HDD/SSD mount on top is kind of cool too.
http://english.11st.co.kr/product/S...method=getSellerProductDetail&prdNo=904116672
I bought G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB 1866MHz ram. In the BIOS it shows 1600mhz. There are two profiles to select and selecting it, will change the frequency to 1866mhz. Selecting profile to get speed 1866mhz also increases the cpu temp. to 10+ deg. Is this how it suppose to be?
What profiles are available? There should be one labeled XMP.
Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P) has three choices, Disabled, Profile 1, and Profile 2
What are the differences between profile 1 and 2?
- Status