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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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terrisus

Member
What karma said. I bought all my parts systematically over six months, and a few are already outclassed by newer ones. Just come back when you're ready!

Also, its good to see you over here.

Thanks =)

Not that I don't like laptops - I love laptops, and think they're awesome...
But, it's exciting to be able to do something with a desktop again.

NoRéN;146116294 said:
Parts will always be outclassed soon after you get them. :)

I wouldn't be buying parts along the way anyway, everything would be on hold until early March-ish.
It would just be a matter of getting some ideas - which I guess would be kind of irrelevant by then anyway >.>
 

Red

Member
Anyone have recommendations for getting 5.1 audio out of an HTPC? I have a Xonar DG on the way. 5.1 for games less necessary than for movies. I think the easiest option is to add an AVR and run that to my speakers. Curious if there have been any novel setups around here.

I was looking at toslink optical switchers to keep both the TV and PC connected without the need for a receiver, but the only one I see is poorly reviewed and seems unreliable.
 

hitgirl

Member
Anyone have recommendations for getting 5.1 audio out of an HTPC? I have a Xonar DG on the way. 5.1 for games less necessary than for movies. I think the easiest option is to add an AVR and run that to my speakers. Curious if there have been any novel setups around here.

I was looking at toslink optical switchers to keep both the TV and PC connected without the need for a receiver, but the only one I see is poorly reviewed and seems unreliable.

Just run an HDMI cable from your video card to a receiver. MPCHC can handle the rest, no need for an audio card.
 
Can a motherboard really affect performance like in this review? www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cpu_mainboard/msi_z97_sli_krait_motherboard_review/12
I got the 4690k and the Krait this weekend but just found that review. Is it worth trying to return the board if I just want an average OC of 4.4GHz?

I think they must have had a defective motherboard. Normally as long as all the signals are properly getting from A to B you will see a few frames in either direction--not literally a 50% drop in frame rates. They are the only ones to release a review so far so I wouldn't give up hope.
 

hey_jay

Neo Member
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/8xWN99

Threw this together earlier today. Could someone give it a once over to see if I missed anything or if they see some changes that I should or could make?

I plan on going SLI in the future, is the 750w PSU enough for duel 970's?

Saw the ASUS monitor in Best Buy the other day. Is it a good one or is there anything comparable in the same range?

Thanks in advance for the advice!
 

RGM79

Member
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/8xWN99

Threw this together earlier today. Could someone give it a once over to see if I missed anything or if they see some changes that I should or could make?

I plan on going SLI in the future, is the 750w PSU enough for duel 970's?

Saw the ASUS monitor in Best Buy the other day. Is it a good one or is there anything comparable in the same range?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

Yeah, 750 watts is enough. For twin GTX 970s, 700 watts is recommended and that Rosewill Capstone 750 watt model is actually very good, it's got great reviews. Are you using that blu-ray drive to watch movies? If you're using it to burn blu-ray discs then it's fine, but that blu-ray drive does not come bundled with any blu-ray player software, so you will need to buy blu-ray player software like Cyberlink PowerDVD or set up a solution for watching blu-ray movie discs yourself.

Can't really comment on the monitor as I'm not a monitor guy, maybe someone else can answer that. I can recommend some changes to save money. I changed the motherboard, RAM, SSD, graphics card, wireless adaptor, and removed the OS.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($116.75 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($127.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($348.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 ATX Mid Tower Case ($107.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 750W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus MX279H 27.0" Monitor ($267.99 @ NCIX US)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Keyboard: Logitech G710 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($99.95 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder 2013 Wired Optical Mouse ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1605.34
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-06 02:35 EST-0500

Here's why I made the following changes:
  • Motherboard - The Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI is about equal to the Asus Z97-A in most respects while being a fair bit cheaper. The Z97-A seems a bit better for overclocking, though.
  • RAM - The 2133MHz model is cheaper and faster.
  • SSD - The MX100 is about the same for a lower price.
  • Graphics card - The MSI model is a bit cheaper and quieter while remaining one of the better GTX 970 models for performance and overclocking. It's also a bit shorter and more manageable as a result, but it's your choice.
  • Wireless adaptor - The Gigabyte adaptor is cheaper and has AC and bluetooth support while the TP-Link model doesn't.
  • OS - You can get Windows 7/8.1 for $20 or less from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap. The keys sold there are fully legitimate and unique, they're from university programs.
All in all, you can save somewhere around $165 going with my advice.
 

Red

Member
What is your audio setup then? Do you have a 5.1 surround sound? Need details...
Vizio s4251w-b4. No ARC. TV only has optical out but does not pass through 5.1 sound (compresses to 2 ch PCM). I rip all my blurays to PC and would like to hear them with real surround sound, but keep my TV connected for when I'm watching Netflix, iTunes, etc. The sound bar only has 1 optical in, but at worst I can switch the wire depending on my source.
 

LilJoka

Member
Vizio s4251w-b4. No ARC. TV only has optical out but does not pass through 5.1 sound (compresses to 2 ch PCM). I rip all my blurays to PC and would like to hear them with real surround sound, but keep my TV connected for when I'm watching Netflix, iTunes, etc. The sound bar only has 1 optical in, but at worst I can switch the wire depending on my source.

You should get one of the Onkyo 5.1 kits which include a HDMI AVR. Very good value for money. This is the most future proof method too as they have lots of inputs and speakers have room for upgrade.

Like this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B007VIHTLW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1420541990&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Then hdmi from onboard or GPU to the AVR and HDMI from AVR to TV.

If you are just using a sound bar there's no point for 5.1, 2.0 is enough. 5.1 will give minimal impact since the effects are mainly noticeable due to speaker positions.

Edit just seen it's a 5.1 wireless thing.
Well cheapest solution is as you mentioned, optical into the soundbar. 5.1 DTS 1500kbps will be the highest quality you will get.

You could use the coax or analogue inputs for the TV since it's only 2.0 maximum. Then you don't have to switch cables.
 

Red

Member
You could use the coax or analogue inputs for the TV since it's only 2.0 maximum. Then you don't have to switch cables.
No coax or analog outputs on TV. It has an ARC-ready HDMI port but the soundbar has no HDMI input. Optical is the only option. The TV is capable of outputting 5.1 surround, but will not pass it through. That is, if I use the TV itself to watch Netflix or another capable service, I get full DTS. But if I watch a movie on my PC or Bluray player, using the same connection, I get 2 channel PCM audio.
 
Would any monitor around $100 be a substantial upgrade from what I've been using? I use a Samsung LN22B350, which is a 22" 720p (1366 x 768) LCD TV. Bought it back in 2009.

Edit: I'd like to get a 120 Hz monitor but I'm just not going to be able to fit one in my budget now.
 

lordy88

Member
All of those will connect through SATA (not SATA Express) unless you specifically buy a M.2 version of the SSD.

What is your budget? Maybe we can recommend a motherboard for you.

M.2 is for the small memory chip sized SSD's and Sata Express is a new technology with no drives that realy take advantage of it yet, so I believe. In other words, don't worry about M.2 or Sata Express right now. It's nice to have for the future, but most SSD"s are just Sata 3.

Thanks guys! I had a feeling I should just ignore the Express and M.2 slots, but it's good to see I'm doing the right thing.

I'm looking for a LGA 1150 Z97 ATX MOBO around $100-$110. I'm willing to go a little higher if I'm getting a big increase in quality. I'm patient right now, so I'm waiting for a solid deal (no MIR) to take advantage of.
 
I went back to my parents house last night to try to fix the computer again (probably a page or two back). I'm out of ideas. It has to be the CPU or mother board at this point, I've tried everything else. Swapped out the PSU as well last night.

Basically to sum it up:
-Built computer for dad. I've installed Windows on 2 separate HDs, swapped ram, swapped ram slots, and it still freezes usually 5-10 minutes in. It's only ever had 1 BSOD, they're just hard locks. Think I'm going to RMA the mobo/cpu b/c I need this to work.
 

Gambit61

Member
I think they must have had a defective motherboard. Normally as long as all the signals are properly getting from A to B you will see a few frames in either direction--not literally a 50% drop in frame rates. They are the only ones to release a review so far so I wouldn't give up hope.

Thanks, I'll test it out some more later today.
 
OK guys I need some help. I have an i7 4790k on the way that I paid 120 for(thanks Intel), should I sell that for 300 and get a i5 4690k since I mainly just play games and movie watching on the pc and since I'll be getting an GTX 970 soon I might as well sell it and keep the $100 difference(since the i5 is 200)

GAF,tell me what I should do or the best advice
 

RGM79

Member
OK guys I need some help. I have an i7 4790k on the way that I paid 120 for(thanks Intel), should I sell that for 300 and get a i5 4690k since I mainly just play games and movie watching on the pc and since I'll be getting an GTX 970 soon I might as well sell it and keep the $100 difference(since the i5 is 200)

GAF,tell me what I should do or the best advice
Sounds like a plan. Unless you're doing heavy work like CAD or media production, you will be fine with the 4690K.
 

Gruso

Member
Former HTPC is now a pint sized powerhouse! Case is a Lian Li Q08B, new additions are an i5-3570 and baby GTX 970. WIP photo.

NoxMuvil.jpg
 

mauldie

Member
OK guys I need some help. I have an i7 4790k on the way that I paid 120 for(thanks Intel), should I sell that for 300 and get a i5 4690k since I mainly just play games and movie watching on the pc and since I'll be getting an GTX 970 soon I might as well sell it and keep the $100 difference(since the i5 is 200)

GAF,tell me what I should do or the best advice

You need to get rock legend certified!
 

Ullus

Member
Anyone tried the samsung S27D590CS? Been thinking about trying VA panel instead of IPS for movies. It's currently 440 dollars here, and I have the non curved IPS version which I really like. But some better darks would be nice in movies.

EDIT: Or if you have any recommendations I'll be glad to hear them.
 

NoRéN

Member
Alright, input requested.

Recently, someone posted about having installed RAM that was not running at the correct speed. They set the xmp profile thing and they said their cpu temp when up about 10 degrees.

well, looks like I stumbled on a similar problem. Bought some 1600 ram, was running at 1333. Set xmp to auto and today i noticed that the cpu fan was noticeable higher.

It's hard for me to say it's the exact problem as the weather here has gone up about 20 degrees F in the last few days. However, I noticed in CPU-Z that my cpu core speed seemed higher than usual(i7-4770k not OC). It was at around 3900.00 MHz. I decided to check out the bios and sure enough I found that Intel Turbo Boost was now set to auto when i don't recall it ever being on.

So, could setting the xmp from disabled to auto have affected this? As a test I went ahead and disabled it and now the core speed is at around 3500.00 MHz and the cpu fan rpm dropped about 200.

Any insight is appreciated.
 

hitgirl

Member
OK guys I need some help. I have an i7 4790k on the way that I paid 120 for(thanks Intel), should I sell that for 300 and get a i5 4690k since I mainly just play games and movie watching on the pc and since I'll be getting an GTX 970 soon I might as well sell it and keep the $100 difference(since the i5 is 200)

GAF,tell me what I should do or the best advice

Did yours arrive in the mail yet?
 

LilJoka

Member
NoRéN;146251064 said:
Alright, input requested.

Recently, someone posted about having installed RAM that was not running at the correct speed. They set the xmp profile thing and they said their cpu temp when up about 10 degrees.

well, looks like I stumbled on a similar problem. Bought some 1600 ram, was running at 1333. Set xmp to auto and today i noticed that the cpu fan was noticeable higher.

It's hard for me to say it's the exact problem as the weather here has gone up about 20 degrees F in the last few days. However, I noticed in CPU-Z that my cpu core speed seemed higher than usual(i7-4770k not OC). It was at around 3900.00 MHz. I decided to check out the bios and sure enough I found that Intel Turbo Boost was now set to auto when i don't recall it ever being on.

So, could setting the xmp from disabled to auto have affected this? As a test I went ahead and disabled it and now the core speed is at around 3500.00 MHz and the cpu fan rpm dropped about 200.

Any insight is appreciated.

I never use XMP since it messes with CPU IMC voltage and as you've found other things.

Just set the speed to 1600mhz in the overclock section and set the primary ram timings as specified by the XMP profile. Then set the ram voltage to what's specified, usually 1.5v.
 

knitoe

Member
NoRéN;146251064 said:
Alright, input requested.

Recently, someone posted about having installed RAM that was not running at the correct speed. They set the xmp profile thing and they said their cpu temp when up about 10 degrees.

well, looks like I stumbled on a similar problem. Bought some 1600 ram, was running at 1333. Set xmp to auto and today i noticed that the cpu fan was noticeable higher.

It's hard for me to say it's the exact problem as the weather here has gone up about 20 degrees F in the last few days. However, I noticed in CPU-Z that my cpu core speed seemed higher than usual(i7-4770k not OC). It was at around 3900.00 MHz. I decided to check out the bios and sure enough I found that Intel Turbo Boost was now set to auto when i don't recall it ever being on.

So, could setting the xmp from disabled to auto have affected this? As a test I went ahead and disabled it and now the core speed is at around 3500.00 MHz and the cpu fan rpm dropped about 200.

Any insight is appreciated.
First, temps you see in the bios is usually higher than in Windows. It's because Windows enables power saving features, like downclocking the cpu speed, lower cpu voltages and etc., which doesn't happen in the bios. Thus, don't depend on the bios for temperature monitoring. Do it in Windows. And, don't worry about idle temps. You should be looking at max load temps, like while running Prime95.

I find using XMP finicky. I would suggest you just set the memory speed manually.

And, you want Turbo Boost enable, normally on by default. Allows the CPU speed to increase when more power is needed.

Finally, OC the CPU. Makes a big difference today and the future.
 
So, my computer is about 2 years old. I have Windows 7. Is it worth upgrading to Windows 8.1 now or should I hold off until Windows 10? Also, I have a Gigabyte 7970 and it is getting a little loud and I started thinking about getting another single card. I take it is worthwhile to wait until the next gen is release?
 

NoRéN

Member
I never use XMP since it messes with CPU IMC voltage and as you've found other things.

Just set the speed to 1600mhz in the overclock section and set the primary ram timings as specified by the XMP profile. Then set the ram voltage to what's specified, usually 1.5v.

First, temps you see in the bios is usually higher than in Windows. It's because Windows enables power saving features, like downclocking the cpu speed, lower cpu voltages and etc., which doesn't happen in the bios. Thus, don't depend on the bios for temperature monitoring. Do it in Windows. And, don't worry about idle temps. You should be looking at max load temps, like while running Prime95.

I find using XMP finicky. I would suggest you just set the memory speed manually.

And, you want Turbo Boost enable, normally on by default. Allows the CPU speed to increase when more power is needed.

Finally, OC the CPU. Makes a big difference today and the future.
Thanks for the replies.

Alright, turbo boost enabled.

Now, how do I set the ram speed manually? Gigabyte z87x-d3h motherboard and i see:

System memory multiplier 13.33 set to auto
Memory enhancement setting set to normal
Memory timing mode set to auto
Profile ddr3 voltage at 1.50v
 

RGM79

Member
So I'm buying some ram and saw this was on offer, is it any good? going to be paired with an i7 4790 and an asus vii hero

Ram Link
Wow, well, that seem like a good price.

So, my computer is about 2 years old. I have Windows 7. Is it worth upgrading to Windows 8.1 now or should I hold off until Windows 10? Also, I have a Gigabyte 7970 and it is getting a little loud and I started thinking about getting another single card. I take it is worthwhile to wait until the next gen is release?

Is there reason or a feature you want Windows 8.1 for? You can get Windows 8.1 for about $20 USD from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap. It's really up to you if you want to do it. It's mainly user preference, get it if you like.

As for the graphics card.. try cleaning out the dust if it's louder than it used to be. It's probably running the fans harder to try and keep the graphics card cool, dust buildup will increase heat and make the fan have to run harder to do a better job. It's better to decide parts upgrades by what kind of performance you're looking for rather than getting a new card if the old one is loud. Do you have a budget and/or performance level in mind?
 
Is there reason or a feature you want Windows 8.1 for? You can get Windows 8.1 for about $20 USD from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap. It's really up to you if you want to do it. It's mainly user preference, get it if you like.

As for the graphics card.. try cleaning out the dust if it's louder than it used to be. It's probably running the fans harder to try and keep the graphics card cool, dust buildup will increase heat and make the fan have to run harder to do a better job. It's better to decide parts upgrades by what kind of performance you're looking for rather than getting a new card if the old one is loud. Do you have a budget and/or performance level in mind?

Honestly, I don't know much about 8.1, but the from what I saw, the general consensus was 8.1 is better now than Windows 7 for gaming since it requires less resources and the like. The performance boost even noticeable?

I have cleaned the entire case well, took out my CD drive and replaced that slot with a fan in an effort to decrease the temp. I am going to flash the bios to a newer version and see if that helps.

With regards to the graphics card upgrade, the noise was just waht made me start thinking about upgrading. I have the ASUS 144hz monitor and I want to run more current games closer to that 120 hz, where the monitor is current set.
 

RGM79

Member
Honestly, I don't know much about 8.1, but the from what I saw, the general consensus was 8.1 is better now than Windows 7 for gaming since it requires less resources and the like. The performance boost even noticeable?

I have cleaned the entire case well, took out my CD drive and replaced that slot with a fan in an effort to decrease the temp. I am going to flash the bios to a newer version and see if that helps.

With regards to the graphics card upgrade, the noise was just waht made me start thinking about upgrading. I have the ASUS 144hz monitor and I want to run more current games closer to that 120 hz, where the monitor is current set.

Technically Windows 8.1 has better support for DirectX 11.1 and 11.2, but gaming performance differences are minimal, you'll barely notice it. Graphics driver updates will provide a larger difference.

Careful with BIOS flashing. Is your model one of the ones with a switch to change BIOS?

What games do you play? Recent AAA titles may require you to turn down graphics settings to meet 120FPS on even higher end graphics cards. What's your budget for an upgrade?
 
Technically Windows 8.1 has better support for DirectX 11.1 and 11.2, but gaming performance differences are minimal, you'll barely notice it. Graphics driver updates will provide a larger difference.

Careful with BIOS flashing. Is your model one of the ones with a switch to change BIOS?

What games do you play? Recent AAA titles may require you to turn down graphics settings to meet 120FPS on even higher end graphics cards. What's your budget for an upgrade?

Good information on Windows 7 vs 8. I will hold out for now then.

Well, I just flashed (using official BIOS), and everything turned out great. Seems like random fan speed ups are less of an issue from the small 10 minute sample size if have :p

Well, I will be playing Dragon Age Inquisition, Skyrim (crazy modded), DOTA 2 (I can go back 3 generates of video cards to run this), Metal Gear Solid: Ground Zeroes, etc. Honestly, it seems like GTX 980 or bust. Seems like the Gigabyte 7970 is the same size as the GTX 380x so I am good there. It results in about 50% power increase. May not be worth it now.
 

VaLiancY

Member
Ello' PC GAF. I built my first computer 2 years ago and I feel I'm at the point where some upgrades are necessary.

Your Current Specs: i5 2400 / Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3 / ASUS P8Z77-V LK / HD Radeon 7850 / Antec NeoECO 620w / CM HAF / Samsung 1TB
Budget:  $600 + US
Main Use: 5 mostly gaming
Monitor Resolution: I'll upgrade my monitor at a later time.
Specific Applications: The current games I play currently are Marvel Heroes, Dota 2 and Battlefield 4.( I really wanted to upgrade to run the next Witcher and Dragon Age 3.)
Looking to reuse any parts?: I want to reuse the case, power supply, the motherboard(if possible).
When will you build?:  March or April.
Will you be overclocking?: Nope.
 
Ello' PC GAF. I built my first computer 2 years ago and I feel I'm at the point where some upgrades are necessary.

Your Current Specs: i5 2400 / Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3 / ASUS P8Z77-V LK / HD Radeon 7850 / Antec NeoECO 620w / CM HAF / Samsung 1TB
Budget:  $600 + US
Main Use: 5 mostly gaming
Monitor Resolution: I'll upgrade my monitor at a later time.
Specific Applications: The current games I play currently are Marvel Heroes, Dota 2 and Battlefield 4.( I really wanted to upgrade to run the next Witcher and Dragon Age 3.)
Looking to reuse any parts?: I want to reuse the case, power supply, the motherboard(if possible).
When will you build?:  March or April.
Will you be overclocking?: Nope.

I'm sure some more experienced guys will throw you some better suggestions, but I'll throw my 2 cents in.
A.) You should reconsider not overclocking your CPU. It may be showing its age but you could probably get it up to 4.0Ghz, and while I don't know much about the 2400, the 2500-2600's are still doing well, especially when overclocked. If not, maybe a think about that last.
B.) You'd probably see the biggest jump from upgrading your GPU/adding an SSD. Grab a cheap 128/256 on sale, switch your OS over to it and your favorite games. As for GPU, the GTX 970 is amazing (a few problems here and there), and by the time you do your upgrade, the 960's will be out for even cheaper. Also R9 290's on the AMD side are also fantastic bang for buck, so look into that if you want.

TL;DR: Look into overclocking, its not that bad. Past that, a GPU upgrade this spring to the 960, and a SSD for your daily processes would be worthy changes.
 

Gruso

Member
My layman's 2c also. I have just gone down the very same path (see pic above). Similarly, no plans to OC. Given the relative lack of LGA1155 options, my shortlist came down to an i5-3570 or i7-3770. I was advised to go with the i7 for marginally better future proofing (for want of a better term) but I was pinching pennies, so I went with the i5. And a GTX 970.

The build was completed last night, and I've only done minimal testing. But I like what I've seen so far.

Picking up a 250GB SSD this week to house my Steam A-list.

[edit] Should add what I paid.
Intel Core i5-3570 Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 6 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80637I53570
$214.99

Zotac NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 4GB GDDR5 2DVI/HDMI/DisplayPort PCI-Express Video Card ZT-90101-10P
$329.99
 

RGM79

Member
Ello' PC GAF. I built my first computer 2 years ago and I feel I'm at the point where some upgrades are necessary.

Your Current Specs: i5 2400 / Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3 / ASUS P8Z77-V LK / HD Radeon 7850 / Antec NeoECO 620w / CM HAF / Samsung 1TB
Budget: $600 + US
Main Use: 5 mostly gaming
Monitor Resolution: I'll upgrade my monitor at a later time.
Specific Applications: The current games I play currently are Marvel Heroes, Dota 2 and Battlefield 4.( I really wanted to upgrade to run the next Witcher and Dragon Age 3.)
Looking to reuse any parts?: I want to reuse the case, power supply, the motherboard(if possible).
When will you build?: March or April.
Will you be overclocking?: Nope.

I'm sure some more experienced guys will throw you some better suggestions, but I'll throw my 2 cents in.
A.) You should reconsider not overclocking your CPU. It may be showing its age but you could probably get it up to 4.0Ghz, and while I don't know much about the 2400, the 2500-2600's are still doing well, especially when overclocked. If not, maybe a think about that last.
B.) You'd probably see the biggest jump from upgrading your GPU/adding an SSD. Grab a cheap 128/256 on sale, switch your OS over to it and your favorite games. As for GPU, the GTX 970 is amazing (a few problems here and there), and by the time you do your upgrade, the 960's will be out for even cheaper. Also R9 290's on the AMD side are also fantastic bang for buck, so look into that if you want.

TL;DR: Look into overclocking, its not that bad. Past that, a GPU upgrade this spring to the 960, and a SSD for your daily processes would be worthy changes.

The 2400 can't be overclocked. Only Intel K models can be overclocked. A new non-overclocking i5 processor and motherboard will be about $250, the rest can go to a GTX 970.

A cheaper option might be to find a used 3570K or something similar for sale. That will be under $200, hopefully. Then he could fit an SSD into his budget.
 

beastmode

Member
Budget: Whatever the best price/performance parts ends up I guess, around or lower than $1000.
Monitor Resolution: 1080
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: MGSV: The Phantom Pain at 1080/60 on at least all High (edit: Oh and Witcher 3 and Star Wars Battlefront)
When will you build?: Few months from now at most
Will you be overclocking?: Nah

How are these?

http://ark.intel.com/products/80815/Intel-Core-i5-4590-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_70
http://www.kingston.com/dataSheets/KVR13N9S8K2_8.pdf
http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=02G-P4-2752-KR
 

Gambit61

Member
I think my motherboard might be defective. I got a 4690k and the MSI Z97S Krait on Saturday and have had nothing but trouble with it. When I first loaded up Windows 8.1 it kept freezing Explorer.exe, forcing me to shut it down. That fortunately went away after I did several Windows updates. It wouldn't boot when I changed the base clock to 4GHz and increased the CPU voltage by .100 so I left everything at default since then. It also randomly crashes when I launch/use basic software like Trixx for fan control. Oh and it shut down when I was testing out streaming to twitch with OBS (which I couldn't even get my stream to load on). None of these things happened on the old Acer OEM motherboard + Phenom II X4 955 I was just using for the past 4 years. Everything else in my pc is the same.
 
I have a new CPU, GPU, and RAM sticks. Where is a guide on replacing PC parts and making sure they work? Should I try them one at a time? Do I have to backup my hard drives (god I hope not)?
 

xezuru

Member
Thanks for input, finally rounding up what I'm gonna do, to recap:

At a point where my computer is like 7-8 years old now and want to upgrade maybe half the components now and half later to be easier on my budget.
I believe my Case is huge and light, Power Supply is plenty fine (unless suggested otherwise for an old ass PSU), and my Video Card should be fine to wait on at the resolutions and graphics options I play.

Here are the parts I'm looking at, at the moment


Building Questions
1) Any other advice or recommendations
2) I'm not experienced with RAM speeds over 1600, is it pretty easy to shift through MOBO bios and set that stuff?
3) Also not familiar with the Memory Timings, ones in link are Timing 9-10-9-27, dunno if matters or to worry about it.

Questions about Current setup
4) I've had a couple random blue screens/hard crashes now and then, just recently I found out that sometimes my Motherboard runs damn hot, the CPU does sometimes as well, but according to speccy, CPU caps at like 80c when sometimes it says my MOBO goes to 100c. Besides the fact I have long sessions of comp usage, I have no idea what this could be because I'm not overclocking anything and my case is decently ventilated.
5) Any way to change General and CPU fan speeds easily without going into BIOS?

Current old rig:
Operating System
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad Q9450 @ 2.66GHz
Yorkfield 45nm Technology
RAM
4.00GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 399MHz (5-5-5-15)
Motherboard
NVIDIA NFORCE 780i SLI (Socket 775)
Graphics
1024MB ATI AMD Radeon HD 5800 Series (XFX Pine Group)
PSU
Ultra X3 1000W ATX
 

RGM79

Member
Budget: Whatever the best price/performance parts ends up I guess, around or lower than $1000.
Monitor Resolution: 1080
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: MGSV: The Phantom Pain at 1080/60 on at least all High (edit: Oh and Witcher 3 and Star Wars Battlefront)
When will you build?: Few months from now at most
Will you be overclocking?: Nah

How are these?

http://ark.intel.com/products/80815/Intel-Core-i5-4590-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_70
http://www.kingston.com/dataSheets/KVR13N9S8K2_8.pdf
http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=02G-P4-2752-KR

The graphics card is a bit low powered, but everything seems fine. I'd recommend you come back here about a week or two before you plan to buy so we can figure out a definite parts list. Prices will change, so it's better to get a parts list and price quote just before you plan to buy.

I think my motherboard might be defective. I got a 4690k and the MSI Z97S Krait on Saturday and have had nothing but trouble with it. When I first loaded up Windows 8.1 it kept freezing Explorer.exe, forcing me to shut it down. That fortunately went away after I did several Windows updates. It wouldn't boot when I changed the base clock to 4GHz and increased the CPU voltage by .100 so I left everything at default since then. It also randomly crashes when I launch/use basic software like Trixx for fan control. Oh and it shut down when I was testing out streaming to twitch with OBS (which I couldn't even get my stream to load on). None of these things happened on the old Acer OEM motherboard + Phenom II X4 955 I was just using for the past 4 years. Everything else in my pc is the same.

Latest motherboard drivers installed? What are CPU temperatures like?

I have a new CPU, GPU, and RAM sticks. Where is a guide on replacing PC parts and making sure they work? Should I try them one at a time? Do I have to backup my hard drives (god I hope not)?

You should be fine replacing all the parts at once, but if you're not confident then yes, doing the parts replacing one at a time is a method. Installation is fairly straightforward, you are just installing them next to or in place of existing parts. There are a multitude of installation videos online.

No, you will not have to back up anything. What is your current PC's specs, and what new parts did you get?

Thanks for input, finally rounding up what I'm gonna do, to recap:

At a point where my computer is like 7-8 years old now and want to upgrade maybe half the components now and half later to be easier on my budget.
I believe my Case is huge and light, Power Supply is plenty fine (unless suggested otherwise for an old ass PSU), and my Video Card should be fine to wait on at the resolutions and graphics options I play.

Here are the parts I'm looking at, at the moment


Building Questions
1) Any other advice or recommendations
2) I'm not experienced with RAM speeds over 1600, is it pretty easy to shift through MOBO bios and set that stuff?
3) Also not familiar with the Memory Timings, ones in link are Timing 9-10-9-27, dunno if matters or to worry about it.

Questions about Current setup
4) I've had a couple random blue screens/hard crashes now and then, just recently I found out that sometimes my Motherboard runs damn hot, the CPU does sometimes as well, but according to speccy, CPU caps at like 80c when sometimes it says my MOBO goes to 100c. Besides the fact I have long sessions of comp usage, I have no idea what this could be because I'm not overclocking anything and my case is decently ventilated.
5) Any way to change General and CPU fan speeds easily without going into BIOS?

Current old rig:

1. Parts look fine, but you can get cheaper RAM rated at 1866MHz without the hassle of a mail in rebate, or cheaper RAM rated for an even higher speed:
8GB Kingston Fury DDR3-1866 for $72
8GB Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile DDR3-2133 for $77 after $10 rebate

2. It's as easy as selecting a different preset memory speed profile in BIOS/UEFI.

3. They can matter, just not very much to end users. It's the least important factor when it comes to memory performance. As long as the timings aren't grossly out of line with what is expected (CL9/CL10 is alright for 1866MHz, CL11 is fine for 2133MHz), there's very little to worry about.

4. Use a tool like BlueScreenView to see more information about crashes. I'd recommend utilities like Real Temp or HWMonitor to check system temperatures. I don't suppose you know what part of the motherboard is hitting 100 degrees Celsius?

I assume you're using the stock Intel cooler? When you buy the new processor and motherboard, I highly recommend a CPU cooler like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo for under $30. It does a great job of keeping the CPU cool and does it more quietly than the stock Intel cooler will.

5. That usually depends on the motherboard. New Asus motherboards come with a utility like FanXpert 2, other motherboard manufacturers may have something similar. They allow you to manually or automatically control fan speed as needed. As for a general solution for your current motherboard, I have no idea. Try Speedfan, if that doesn't work then you could look into a fan controller, front panel control models run from $15-20 and just about any will do the job.
 
OK so my EVGA ACX 2.0 SC GTX 970 came in the mail today along with my corsair 230t case

and I'll be getting the rest of the parts by Friday. I can't wait to build my first desktop

I've been using an ASUS gaming laptop for the past 5 years and for my sanity this upgrade couldn't come at a better time

seriously guys I have a 260M in there, a 260M!

I have a question. what's a great migration tool that would let me put things that are currently on this laptop and put them on my new desktop?
 

RGM79

Member
OK so my EVGA ACX 2.0 SC GTX 970 came in the mail today along with my corsair 230t case

and I'll be getting the rest of the parts by Friday. I can't wait to build my first desktop

I've been using an ASUS gaming laptop for the past 5 years and for my sanity this upgrade couldn't come at a better time

seriously guys I have a 260M in there, a 260M!

I have a question. what's a great migration tool that would let me put things that are currently on this laptop and put them on my new desktop?

I use Macrium Reflect.
 
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