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[adamantypants]

They're both going to be displacing the same amount of hot air. You'll probably get better airflow with the liquid cooler though. Also, water coolers are much easier to install provided you have the space needed for the radiator. All in one coolers are typically made for CPUs only.

I love my huge air cooler, but for most I think it's easier to just go liquid. It gives you a cleaner look and easier install. The biggest advantage of air over an all in one liquid cooler is easily the noise. My air cooler is barely a whisper and my CPU never hits above 60C

 

[Mobius 1]

They're both going to be displacing the same amount of hot air. You'll probably get better airflow with the liquid cooler though. Also, water coolers are much easier to install provided you have the space needed for the radiator. All in one coolers are typically made for CPUs only.

I love my huge air cooler, but for most I think it's easier to just go liquid. It gives you a cleaner look and easier install. The biggest advantage of air over an all in one liquid cooler is easily the noise. My air cooler is barely a whisper and my CPU never hits above 60C

Which one do you use? I decided to go with the Noctua ND15 (holy shit the size of it) because it's seems to be whisper quiet. I'm planning on water-cooling with a custom loop for the Mk.II revision of this build, but I don't want it to be noisy.

 

[RGM79]

I think I've had it with my old machine, TDR errors and it being generally out of date. About 5.5 years old now. I bought a 240GB SSD pretty recently that I'll migrate to a new machine, and my monitor/keyboard/mouse/speakers, but otherwise I think I'm going to do a full new build. Gonna read this thread a good bit tomorrow and do some research. Hoping to spend less than $700 and see what I can do for that.

edit:
Is it easy to get Microsoft to free up my Windows 7 key from my current machine if I want to use it on my new one? I see some posts about reactivating it via phone, but they're pretty old. It was a key I got for free as a university student a few years ago.

Fill out the short questionnaire from the first post of this thread, it'll help us with your part recommendations. It doesn't really matter if the instructions are old, there's no reason for them to change how Windows 7 reactivation is done.

I have the Gigabyte GA-Z97-D3H as mentioned in the OP (ATX version though) and it takes an M2 slot but at the expense of disabling 2 Sata ports!

Not sure if it's worth considering an M2. Also any other drawbacks on using an M2? Does it also negatively impact the PCIex-16 graphics card or something?

If it only says it'll disable 2 SATA ports, then that's all it should do. Most motherboards shouldn't sacrifice the main PCI-E x16 slot's performance unless specifically designed to do that because too many things are using up bandwidth.

For most users I don't really see the need of recommending M.2 drives over 2.5" because 2.5" SSDs offer "good enough" performance and fast seek times already. I can see M.2 being preferable for a super compact build, though.

wrong thread, sry. techsupportgaf would've been right choice I guess.

It's not a big deal, we can help as well if you don't mind posting. We already get tech questions in this thread as you can see.

 

[opticalmace]

Are you running any programs or running any games where your cpu seems to be holding you back? What are you overclocked to?

Eh, probably not. I fiddle with it occasionally, usually sits between 4.3 and 4.5 GHz. I don't play too many games right now even to be honest, TF2, Wreckfest, maybe Project Cars. I have a 970 and I'm at 1440p, so if anything I should probably upgrade the GPU first, but I am waiting for Pascal.

 

[LiquidMetal14]

Reposted my PC, DDR4, Catleap monitor, and Rocket League that I have for sale. I've listed them cheaper than what I am looking for via eBay due to this being GAF.

http://m.neogaf.com/showpost.php?p=183262073

 

[BIGWORM]

Finally upgraded to a GTX970 over my GTX680. My oldest will be getting the 680 when I finish coming up with the rest of his PC I plan to build. I got the case, RAM, and a keyboard left to find.

 

[ampere]

Fill out the short questionnaire from the first post of this thread, it'll help us with your part recommendations. It doesn't really matter if the instructions are old, there's no reason for them to change how Windows 7 reactivation is done.

Thanks, here goes:

Your Current Specs: i5 750 2.67GHz / 8GB XMS3 (4x2GB) / gigabyte p55m-ud2 (old micro-atx board) / evga nvidia gtx 750ti / EVGA 430W 80PLUS / thermaltake lanbox lite / samsung 250gb ssd 840 evo (newish) + an older 500gb hdd

Budget: $700-800 + US

Main Use: 5: Gaming, and possibly recording gaming footage. I don't necessarily want to stream, but the difference between streaming and recording might just be network related?

Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080, already have a monitor and probably will not upgrade for now

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: 60fps is good, but I don't want dips. I mainly play WoW, other Blizzard games, and indie Steam games. I do like to be able to handle the occasional AAA title, but I can live with playing it below max. Would like to be able to record gaming footage for youtube uploading if possible with my price range.

Looking to reuse any parts?: Probably will only reuse my SSD - samsung 250gb ssd 840 evo

When will you build?: Soonish. My machine is sometimes crapping out while gaming and it's getting frustrating.

Will you be overclocking?: No, unless someone convinces me otherwise I'm not really interested

I built my current machine in early 2010 and went for a small form factor case and intended to have a relatively portable machine. The reality is that I don't move it around much at all, and the small case has been an unnecessary constraint and annoying when trying to make certain upgrades. I'd like to go with a mid to full tower for my next build, for the airflow benefits and easy of modifying if necessary.

 

[An1malhouse365]

Maybe the AsRock Z170 Extreme4, but I didn't see any in stock at reasonable prices at Amazon.

Ok greats thanks!
I went for the Asus as it had the optical port I need for my Astro headsets.

 

[Woorloog]

Heat sink glue residue clean-up: Success!

Saw someone suggesting an eraser in Reddit... and indeed, it worked well.

 

[Finaika]

Noob SSD question:

Should I install games/steam on the SSD or a normal HDD? Will it improve the game performance or introduce wear & tear to the SSD?

 

[adamantypants]

Which one do you use? I decided to go with the Noctua ND15 (holy shit the size of it) because it's seems to be whisper quiet. I'm planning on water-cooling with a custom loop for the Mk.II revision of this build, but I don't want it to be noisy.

Phanteks PH-TC14PE. I was actually trying to hold out for that Noctua you have but this cooler went on sale to a ridiculous price and traded blows with the Noctua in benchmarks. The Noctua is probably better though because they have the best fans. It's a HUGE cooler just like the Noctua but it's totally worth it IMO because it's so damn quiet. You can achieve quietness to these giant coolers with liquid, but you'll most certainly have to go custom.

Noob SSD question:

Should I install games/steam on the SSD or a normal HDD? Will it improve the game performance or introduce wear & tear to the SSD?

Install games you intend to play a lot on your SSD. In fact, I install all games to my SSD. But then use a tool like SteamTool to move them on to a different drive once I start to run out of SSD space. Most good SSDs you won't have to worry about wear an tear.

 

[RGM79]

Thanks, here goes:

Your Current Specs: i5 750 2.67GHz / 8GB XMS3 (4x2GB) / gigabyte p55m-ud2 (old micro-atx board) / evga nvidia gtx 750ti / EVGA 430W 80PLUS / thermaltake lanbox lite / samsung 250gb ssd 840 evo (newish) + an older 500gb hdd

Budget: $700-800 + US

Main Use: 5: Gaming, and possibly recording gaming footage. I don't necessarily want to stream, but the difference between streaming and recording might just be network related?

Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080, already have a monitor and probably will not upgrade for now

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: 60fps is good, but I don't want dips. I mainly play WoW, other Blizzard games, and indie Steam games. I do like to be able to handle the occasional AAA title, but I can live with playing it below max. Would like to be able to record gaming footage for youtube uploading if possible with my price range.

Looking to reuse any parts?: Probably will only reuse my SSD - samsung 250gb ssd 840 evo

When will you build?: Soonish. My machine is sometimes crapping out while gaming and it's getting frustrating.

Will you be overclocking?: No, unless someone convinces me otherwise I'm not really interested

I built my current machine in early 2010 and went for a small form factor case and intended to have a relatively portable machine. The reality is that I don't move it around much at all, and the small case has been an unnecessary constraint and annoying when trying to make certain upgrades. I'd like to go with a mid to full tower for my next build, for the airflow benefits and easy of modifying if necessary.

Something like this should work well:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($186.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI H170A PC Mate ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($88.20 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Elite 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($315.19 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.80 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $760.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-28 13:58 EDT-0400

There aren't that many reviews for H170/B150 motherboards available, I'm afraid. Going with a better known Z170 motherboard (like the ones mentioned a page or two back) is an option, but it'd also be an unnecessary extra cost. If you prefer a different looking case, you can swap it out for something else of course.

 

[Shaldome]

Ok everything is working again. I checked the pump again by holding my had around it and put some more light near the PC and it is actually working. Still no dice starting it up then. I unplugged all unnecessary devices from front and back and it booted fine into Windows.

The I go a bluescreen again. I have no idea whats going on. Temps are fine. I loaded the optimized default BIOS setting and hope it helps.

 

[The Lamonster]

Fractal Define R5 case - using the 2 stock fans plus 2 Noctua fans (NF-A14 FLX). Two front intakes, one bottom intake and one rear exhaust.

Where should the stock fans go and where should the Noctua fans go? The stock fans have much less airflow than the Noctuas so I think the answer is put the Noctuas in front.

 

[Woorloog]

Apparently Asus z170-A is secured with only six screws on R5 case? Two empty screw holes don't seem to have screw places under them. I guess six is enough then? The mobo certainly feels secure.

Fractal Define R5 case - using the 2 stock fans plus 2 Noctua fans (NF-A14 FLX). Two front intakes, one bottom intake and one rear exhaust.

Where should the stock fans go and where should the Noctua fans go? The stock fans have much less airflow than the Noctuas so I think the answer is put the Noctuas in front.

One article about fan locations noted that the side-location (intake) is very good addition. Perhaps one intake front and side, while exhaust rear and... top, i guess? (I have only three fans so front, side, rear is my config.) EDIT As for what to where... One strong and one weak exhaust and intake each? Perhaps intake strong front, weak side; strong exhaust rear, weak top?

 

[TGMIII]

2500k & an Intel DH77KC would be more than enough to power a 980ti without issues, correct?

Pretty sure there will be no issues but double checking.

 

[Woorloog]

Forgot the goddamn I/O shield...

AAAND i noticed i can't put the sixth MB screw, as it lowers the IOs so that they don't align with the slots in the IO shield. WTF?

 

[BIGWORM]

Forgot the goddamn I/O shield...

I absolute hate that, with a heated passion. I built a client's computer in a rush a few weeks ago and forgot the shield. Thankfully, they didn't have a huge aftermarket HSF that I had to pry off...

 

[Woorloog]

And now i figured out why some screws don't, uh, "work".

I forgot mobo stand-offs... i guess?

Time to eat then, i'm not focusing enough.

EDIT The FUCKING IO SHIELD. The mobo got stuck on it, as one of the "pins" on the shield got a bit of twisted. Had to cut it off... Fortunately it isn't anything important.

 

[Shaldome]

So looking at the minidumps from my crashes first one was from my mouse driver (unlikely) and the second one was cause by Cyberfox hitting a bad memory address. As I looked now and see that Windows is only showing 12 Gb of RAM it must be a faulty stick.

 

[The Lamonster]

And now i figured out why some screws don't, uh, "work".

I forgot mobo stand-offs... i guess?

Time to eat then, i'm not focusing enough.

EDIT The FUCKING IO SHIELD. The mobo got stuck on it, as one of the "pins" on the shield got a bit of twisted. Had to cut it off... Fortunately it isn't anything important.

was it near the LAN port? pretty sure those are used to ground the shield to the case.

 

[Woorloog]

was it near the LAN port? pretty sure those are used to ground the shield to the case.

The pins, all of them, touch the ports still. Had to cut of the tip (or, well, half) from one because it was so bent i couldn't straighten it and it prevented the ports from aligning with the shield.

Now i'm wondering where my eight mobo screw is. I've carefully double checked the table and everything around it... Either i never actually had an eight screw, it rolled pretty far away, or it is lodged in the case somewhere (no rattling).
*Shrug*
I think the mobo is secure with just 7 screws, no?

 

[Terbinator]

Is there a "good" free anti-virus/malware offering out there that can be recommended?

 

[BossDarkseid]

/flipstable

god-damnit pcspecialist...

at the start of the month they told me they'd be ordering in PG279Qs. sent them an email the other day to ask when. got a reply a few hours ago saying they have no ETA and they're now not sure...held off getting the PC for a month because of it...

*rage*

 

[opticalmace]

/flipstable

god-damnit pcspecialist...

at the start of the month they told me they'd be ordering in PG279Qs. sent them an email the other day to ask when. got a reply a few hours ago saying they have no ETA and they're now not sure...held off getting the PC for a month because of it...

*rage*

Do you not have an old monitor to use in the meantime?

 

[Nostremitus]

Is there a "good" free anti-virus/malware offering out there that can be recommended?

Malwarebytes is pretty good.

 

[BossDarkseid]

Do you not have an old monitor to use in the meantime?

Oh, I do. I have two 1080ps I use at the moment its just because I have to go pre built because of cost (via pay monthly) I really wanted to get the monitor via pay monthly w/the rest of the PC as well. Still, time to spread my wings a bit I guess./

 

[Woorloog]

Installed the GPU... and realize there's a port under it... I probably should have connected a cable first but i have no idea which cable.
Oh, well, looks like i have just enough space to connect it... won't be easy though.

Finding a flashlight made things consideeably easier though, i have a bit poor light here i guess.

 

[kakashi08]

What's is the best 34inch wide monitor. Too much to research. As long as its under $800.
Currently have the benq xl2420t with a gtx 780.

What I want to do is, use the BENQ for the ps4, and get a ultra wide "CURVED" 34 for the PC, don't do PC games that much, but when I do, only play BF4.

Which monitor will be good for the PS4? the benq or new 34inch curve.

 

[Summoner]

Tales of zesteria, dark souls games, wasteland 2, will probably want to play fallout 4, but would settle for 720p on that, I have a lot of older games from the last time I built a pc in 2008 so I'm assuming all of those will run fine.

Everything but Fallout 4(even at 720p because of the cpu) will run on those specs.

 

[RGM79]

Installed the GPU... and realize there's a port under it... I probably should have connected a cable first but i have no idea which cable.
Oh, well, looks like i have just enough space to connect it... won't be easy though.

Finding a flashlight made things consideeably easier though, i have a bit poor light here i guess.

Do you mean the port labeled "SATA6G_34 SATAEXPRESS"?

 

[Skii]

Just a quick question and it's a long shot but has anyone here experienced and more importantly fixed DPC latency with Windows 10?

I've got it pretty bad on my PC which causes sound crackling when under heavy load (any game basically). I've had an "expert" try to solve the problem but they have no idea after numerous failed attempts at fixing it. They believe it's down to my storage.

If anyone is an expert at this type of stuff or would want a crack at helping me fix this, let me know. Will reward you as this has been driving me crazy.

It's so disheartening to have spent so much money and time building a PC only for your games to produce sound crackling which essentially makes them unplayable.

 

[Woorloog]

Do you mean the port labeled "SATA6G_34 SATAEXPRESS"?

...
I guess i do now.
I forgot that's there as the GPU also covers a bit of another port.

Oh, well, i need to figure out which cable goes where anyway now.

Let's see... PSU-Mobo cable is attached.
I guess one of those PCI-E cables attached to the PSU should be connected to the GPU?
One cable to the DVD drive, and one to the SSD, i guess? Or are these between the mobo and the devices?
And one cable to the case's fan control connector (SATA type, looks like). Except i guess it too must be connected to the mobo... does it?

EDIT Do i connect 6 or 8 connectors to the GPU from PSU?

 

[RGM79]

...
I guess i do now.
I forgot that's there as the GPU also covers a bit of another port.

Oh, well, i need to figure out which cable goes where anyway now.

Let's see... PSU-Mobo cable is attached.
I guess one of those PCI-E cables attached to the PSU should be connected to the GPU?
One cable to the DVD drive, and one to the SSD, i guess? Or are these between the mobo and the devices?
And one cable to the case's fan control connector (SATA type, looks like). Except i guess it too must be connected to the mobo... does it?

EDIT Do i connect 6 or 8 connectors to the GPU from PSU?

You'll need to connect two PCI-E power cables from the PSU to the GPU, plug in both the 6 pin and 8 pin connector to the GPU. The DVD and SSD both require two cables, a power cable from the PSU and a data cable to the motherboard. The case's SATA cable connects to a SATA power cable from the PSU for power, not to the motherboard.

 

[Woorloog]

You'll need to connect two PCI-E power cables from the PSU to the GPU, plug in both the 6 pin and 8 pin connector to the GPU. The DVD and SSD both require two cables, a power cable from the PSU and a data cable to the motherboard. The case's SATA cable connects to a SATA power cable from the PSU for power, not to the motherboard.

OK, thank you.
This makes things more clear... I have all manuals open here and they feel a bit lacking.

 

[Woorloog]

You'll need to connect two PCI-E power cables from the PSU to the GPU, plug in both the 6 pin and 8 pin connector to the GPU. The DVD and SSD both require two cables, a power cable from the PSU and a data cable to the motherboard. The case's SATA cable connects to a SATA power cable from the PSU for power, not to the motherboard.

Actually, might need a clarification.

The PSU (Seasonic G-750) has hard-connected mobo, CPU and PCI-E cables. PCI-E goes the GPU and both 6/8 pin connectors must be attached, easy enough.
(The 390 came with a short 6-female--8-male cable, i guess it is an extension cable or for Crossfire? (Whatever it is, it is really stiff cable as well.).)

The PSU also has additional CPU and PCI-E cable slots, i presume i can ignore these as i have nothing to use them for.

Then there's four 6-pin slots in the PSU, labeled as [Peripheral - IDE/SATA]. I assume they're interchangeable?
Is it okay to put DVD/SSD/case fans to one cable? Or should i use different cable for each?


And then SATA cables.
Can i ignore the ones hidden under the GPU, and should i connect the SSD to either one with label OS Drive? (I assume it stands for "Operating System" here, rather than "optical [something]".)
Image for clarity how things are actually in my mobo.
http://i.imgur.com/QKq5FPK.jpg
Yellow stripes denote the ports hidden under the GPU, meaning i'll have to detach it to access these.
Red "OS" indicates the ports with a sticker that reads "OS Drive" on the mobo.
Green "A18" indicates ports with a sticker with A18 and a bar code, guess this one isn't important as according to the manual, they're the same kind of ports as the ones under OS.

EDIT No, wait, i'm wrong, aren't i?
I should connect the SSD to a SATA Express, which are hidden under the GPU...
The OS Drive are probably the ones i should use for DVD drive...
EDIT also, does SATA Express need a specific cable or do standard SATA cables work for it, despite them having text 6GB/S? Because if they do, i'm going to need go shopping tomorrow...

Still unsure about the power cables.

 

[Resilient]

Actually, might need a clarification.

The PSU (Seasonic G-750) has hard-connected mobo, CPU and PCI-E cables. PCI-E goes the GPU and both 6/8 pin connectors must be attached, easy enough.
(The 390 came with a short 6-female--8-male cable, i guess it is an extension cable or for Crossfire? (Whatever it is, it is really stiff cable as well.).)

The PSU also has additional CPU and PCI-E cable slots, i presume i can ignore these as i have nothing to use them for.

Then there's four 6-pin slots in the PSU, labeled as [Peripheral - IDE/SATA]. I assume they're interchangeable?
Is it okay to put DVD/SSD/case fans to one cable? Or should i use different cable for each?


And then SATA cables.
Can i ignore the ones hidden under the GPU, and should i connect the SSD to either one with label OS Drive? (I assume it stands for "Operating System" here, rather than "optical [something]".)
Image for clarity how things are actually in my mobo.
http://i.imgur.com/QKq5FPK.jpg
Yellow stripes denote the ports hidden under the GPU, meaning i'll have to detach it to access these.
Red "OS" indicates the ports with a sticker that reads "OS Drive" on the mobo.
Green "A18" indicates ports with a sticker with A18 and a bar code, guess this one isn't important as according to the manual, they're the same kind of ports as the ones under OS.

EDIT No, wait, i'm wrong, aren't i?
I should connect the SSD to a SATA Express, which are hidden under the GPU...
The OS Drive are probably the ones i should use for DVD drive...
EDIT also, does SATA Express need a specific cable or do standard SATA cables work for it, despite them having text 6GB/S? Because if they do, i'm going to need go shopping tomorrow...

Still unsure about the power cables.

The PSU manual should have information detailing which power cables go where.

GPU - generally 2, 6pin power cables
Motherboard - 1 x 8pin (at the top left of mobo), 1 x 24pin (on the right of mobo)
SSD - SATA power connector
Optical Drive - SATA power connector

As for connecting your components into the motherboard, it should be like this (generally)

SSD - SATA cable, the smaller of the two ports on your SSD. SSD into SATA EXPRESS
HDD - SATA cable, the smaller of the two ports on the HDD. HDD into SATA EXPRESS
Optical Drive - SATA cable, the smaller of the two ports on the ODD. It doesn't matter which SATA port this goes into on the Motherboard.

You don't need to buy any special cables, the ones that came with the Motherboard should be fine.

You want the SSD to be in the fastest possible SATA port, followed by the HDD (or another SSD if you have one).

Hope that helps.

 

[Woorloog]

Yes, that's exactly what i need.
Though i still wonder if i should use one cable per device, or can i connect one cable to both SSD and DVD?
I mean, these power cables have multiple connectors...

And the PSU's manual is terribly short and kind of uninformative.
EDIT Besides, it talks about 4-pin connectors when all the cables seem to be 6-pin...

 

[Resilient]

Yes, that's exactly what i need.
Though i still wonder if i should use one cable per device, or can i connect one cable to both SSD and DVD?
I mean, these power cables have multiple connectors...

And the PSU's manual is terribly short and kind of uninformative.

I believe you can piggy back off the long SATA power cable, if it is providing multiple spots for you to do so. You'll need the cable, space, and cable length to pull it off though.

 

[Woorloog]

I believe you can piggy back off the long SATA power cable, if it is providing multiple spots for you to do so. You'll need the cable, space, and cable length to pull it off though.

Right, more puzzle-solving then. Guess i'll have to try... Less cables is better after all, i think.

EDIT Oh, right. Figured out what the 4-pin connectors are. Guess i don't have anything i need them for.

EDIT Whoah, i found the missing screw.

 

[Woorloog]

Ugh, the GPU power cable's 8-pin connector's holding pin doesn't "snap". The connectors are very tight but i worry the holding pin will be a problem...

 

[RS4-]

Ugh, the GPU power cable's 8-pin connector's holding pin doesn't "snap". The connectors are very tight but i worry the holding pin will be a problem...

It's the same for my 8 and 6.

 

[Woorloog]

It's the same for my 8 and 6.

So i guess i'll just hope for the best?

Looks like i've got all the cables connected and preliminary arranged relatively neatly.

On the morning, i'll set up the display and move the computer... Then i'll guess i'll just have to hope i don't need to do anything else.

I guess i should go over the mobo manual and see if there's any switches or jumpers i need to set... how likely is that (Asus Z170-A)? I'm not going to be overclocking anytime soon.

EDIT
...
It occurs to me the SSD i have isn't actually SATA Express compatible...? So, the thing will work as a normal SATA then?

 

[MisterNoisy]

So i guess i'll just hope for the best?

Looks like i've got all the cables connected and preliminary arranged relatively neatly.

On the morning, i'll set up the display and move the computer... Then i'll guess i'll just have to hope i don't need to do anything else.

I guess i should go over the mobo manual and see if there's any switches or jumpers i need to set... how likely is that (Asus Z170-A)? I'm not going to be overclocking anytime soon.

EDIT
...
It occurs to me the SSD i have isn't actually SATA Express compatible...? So, the thing will work as a normal SATA then?

I haven't had to fuck around with jumpers (aside from the occasional clear CMOS) in a while. Your SSD should be fine.

 

[Mobius 1]

What sort of evil god causes FedEx to deliver all parts... except the computer case?

 

[Woorloog]

Then i guess i won't touch anything, until/unless something's wrong.

What i'm worrying about is memory compatibility. The Kingston Hyper X Fury (2x8GB) i have isn't listed in the manual's supported memory DIMMs section.
So, once i connect the display and power up the PC, should i run the mobos' built in memory-test?
Or can i assume everything's OK everything seems to be working?

I guess i need to make sure every component works as it should... Wouldn't be fun to start playing something and realize it is unplayable for some unknown reason...

 

[Resilient]

Then i guess i won't touch anything, until/unless something's wrong.

What i'm worrying about is memory compatibility. The Kingston Hyper X Fury (2x8GB) i have isn't listed in the manual's supported memory DIMMs section.
So, once i connect the display and power up the PC, should i run the mobos' built in memory-test?
Or can i assume everything's OK everything seems to be working?

I guess i need to make sure every component works as it should... Wouldn't be fun to start playing something and realize it is unplayable for some unknown reason...

I did my build recently, using an ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming motherboard.

I didn't need jumpers or anything, my case took care of all that on the motherboard side - check your case manual for clarification maybe.

The RAM thing shouldn't be an issue, my manual didn't list my RAM type and it works fine.

The manual for my motherboard was fairly thorough so I recommend you give it a good read before you turn everything on, in case you missed anything. Considering they are from the same manufacturer and relatively similar series, I imagine your manual will be the same.

 

[Wag]

Hey guys, I'm having lots of problems with my setup since adding my 3rd 980Ti. Apparently my Antec HCP-1300 1300w PSU can't handle the load. I thought I was having problems with my old HCP-1200 and they upgraded me to the HCP-1300 for free, and it's a POS. It's only rated for 1400w max. The HCP-1200 was rated for 1700w+. I want it back. 😡 I spoke to the tech support at Antec and they suggested I buy a 2nd small PS, use the link function and run it externally. Either that or buy a bigger PS. Nice. Needless to say I'll never buy Antec again. Bastards.

OK, I need a better PS. It needs to be able to handle 3-Way SLI 980Ti on a Haswell 5820k @ 4.3GHz, all GPU's/CPU'ed overclocked/overvolted. With 7 drives+peripherals.

Problem is I'm pretty sure my apartment wiring can't handle a 1500w/1600w PSU or I'd pick up the EVGA 1600w. It probably needs a dedicated line and I don't have one for it.

HCP-1200 ran 3-way 6OG Titans for years+ more. It was awesome. 😢

 

[Rootbeer]

I don't know what all you have in your PC but are you sure you are hitting 1300, even with three you should be under that???

If you have that much cash to burn on hardware, get a EVGA SuperNOVA P2 1600W. You'll be good.

Oh and maybe move based on your story... lol.

 

[opticalmace]

Hey guys, I'm having lots of problems with my setup since adding my 3rd 980Ti. Apparently my Antec HCP-1300 1300w PSU can't handle the load. I thought I was having problems with my old HCP-1200 and they upgraded me to the HCP-1300 for free, and it's a POS. It's only rated for 1400w max. The HCP-1200 was rated for 1700w+. I want it back. 😡 I spoke to the tech support at Antec and they suggested I buy a 2nd small PS, use the link function and run it externally. Either that or buy a bigger PS. Nice. Needless to say I'll never buy Antec again. Bastards.

OK, I need a better PS. It needs to be able to handle 3-Way SLI 980Ti on a Haswell 5820k @ 4.3GHz, all GPU's/CPU'ed overclocked/overvolted. With 7 drives+peripherals.

Problem is I'm pretty sure my apartment wiring can't handle a 1500w/1600w PSU or I'd pick up the EVGA 1600w. It probably needs a dedicated line and I don't have one for it.

HCP-1200 ran 3-way 6OG Titans for years+ more. It was awesome. 😢

Have you tried measuring the power draw with a kill-a-watt? That is the first thing I would do if I were playing with that kind of setup.