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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Detox

Member
I'm running Windows 10 should System be using up this much RAM?
x1hS3ej.png
 
Yeah, f off Intel, estimated delivery for the 6700K is delayed again at all german retailers. Was 16.09. when I ordered, went up to 16.10 then 30.10 and changed today to 30.11. This isn't funny anymore, at the time this thing arrives the rest of my PC will be already outdated.

I know someone who works for a big retailer. They ordered 200 and Intel promised them twice to deliver before the end of this month. Today they got 2(!) and the next delivery is scheduled for 30.11.
 

LordAlu

Member
Yeah, it's pretty damn annoying for us. We've had maybe 250+ on order since before launch of both the i5-6600k and the i7-6700k, and other than the initial batch we've had nothing. Suppliers just keep putting the expected date back every day. Originally we were told "before the end of October" and now we're being told it'll be "middle of November".

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
 

Jibbed

Member
It's that time again, PC-GAF.

Second build referring to the guide here, served me well 5 years ago. Keep up the good work!
 

jarosh

Member
Odd question maybe, but I'm rocking an old GTX 260 in my new near-silent build. I don't need anything more on this one for some very light gaming. The other machine I use for gaming ONLY already has a newer GTX 970.

Anyway, the 260 has a pretty loud fan, even at idle (unlike the 970 which is super quiet), so I'd like to replace it with something of comparable or better performance that either has a really quiet fan (at least at idle) or is passively cooled. Considering how old the 260 is I figured there must be something cheap and quiet out there that does the job...?
 

Crisium

Member
Odd question maybe, but I'm rocking an old GTX 260 in my new near-silent build. I don't need anything more on this one for some very light gaming. The other machine I use for gaming ONLY already has a newer GTX 970.

Anyway, the 260 has a pretty loud fan, even at idle (unlike the 970 which is super quiet), so I'd like to replace it with something of comparable or better performance that either has a really quiet fan (at least at idle) or is passively cooled. Considering how old the 260 is I figured there must be something cheap and quiet out there that does the job...?

You are correct that it isn't a hard task to get something faster than the GTX 260. A GTX 750 is certainly noticeably faster and is cheap, small, and sips power. There's also the even faster GTX 750 Ti as well. You'd have to do research on noise levels, but often the bigger coolers with 2 fans are quieter since they have a larger heatsink and the 2 fans can spin slower than 1. There is a passive GTX 750 as well but it has quite the price premium.
 

jarosh

Member
You are correct that it isn't a hard task to get something faster than the GTX 260. A GTX 750 is certainly noticeably faster and is cheap, small, and sips power. There's also the even faster GTX 750 Ti as well. You'd have to do research on noise levels, but often the bigger coolers with 2 fans are quieter since they have a larger heatsink and the 2 fans can spin slower than 1. There is a passive GTX 750 as well but it has quite the price premium.

Hmm, thanks.

My old 260 is this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500087

I'm not exacty up to date on GPU specs, but I'm wondering if this thing might be able to compete in terms of performance: https://www.digitec.ch/en/s1/product/asus-gt-730-2gb-graphics-cards-2728019

It has no fan at all so noise wouldn't be an issue...
 

Crisium

Member
There are 3 versions of a GT 730. I'm not sure which version that is. I think only the GDDR5 version would be in the ballpark of the GTX 260; the others seem heavily cut back.
 

Woorloog

Banned
Duh, how do i clean the glue residue from the cover label on the Hyper 212 Evo heat sink? Just soapy water and let the thing dry completely? (No, i'm not doing anything before i have some idea what i should do.)

I mean, i don't think thermal paste should be applied when there's still glue residue, right?

(Also looks like i'll need isopropyl alcohol for cleaning the CPU surface... Oh, well, i wasn't going to get anything finished today anyway. Or is there some alternative to this? Is this actually important?)
 

RGM79

Member
Duh, how do i clean the glue residue from the cover label on the Hyper 212 Evo heat sink? Just soapy water and let the thing dry completely? (No, i'm not doing anything before i have some idea what i should do.)

I mean, i don't think thermal paste should be applied when there's still glue residue, right?

(Also looks like i'll need isopropyl alcohol for cleaning the CPU surface... Oh, well, i wasn't going to get anything finished today anyway. Or is there some alternative to this? Is this actually important?)

There's actually residue? Each time I've installed a brand new 212 Evo, the plastic sticker leaves no residue, the adhesive is really weak like a sticky note.

You don't need isopropyl alcohol for cleaning the CPU unless there's old thermal paste stuck on there. I sometimes just use a moist paper towel to clean it.
 

Woorloog

Banned
There's actually residue? Each time I've installed a brand new 212 Evo, the plastic sticker leaves no residue, the adhesive is really weak like a sticky note.

You don't need isopropyl alcohol for cleaning the CPU unless there's old thermal paste stuck on there. I sometimes just use a moist paper towel to clean it.

It was pretty damn sticky sticker. My usual luck...
So, i still need to clean the thing. I'd imagine soapy water, good rinsing and making sure it is dry is enough? I mean, the thing's only metal...

New CPU so i guess i won't need the cleaning alcohol.
 

RGM79

Member
It was pretty damn sticky sticker. My usual luck...
So, i still need to clean the thing. I'd imagine soapy water, good rinsing and making sure it is dry is enough? I mean, the thing's only metal...

New CPU so i guess i won't need the cleaning alcohol.
You don't have to clean the entire heatsink. Just use soap and water to scrub the heatsink's CPU contact surface gently, you don't want to scratch or scuff it. If that doesn't work, then use alcohol on it.
 

Woorloog

Banned
You don't have to clean the entire heatsink. Just use soap and water to scrub the heatsink's CPU contact surface gently, you don't want to scratch or scuff it. If that doesn't work, then use alcohol on it.

Yeah, not the entire thing. Wasn't the intention either.
And no scratches, got it.

Anything requiring alcohol will be an issue... Unless vodka is suitable (somehow i don't think it is).
 
How'd it go trying to fit the H100i into the R5? Did you follow a guide? How noisy is the PC with the top vents opened up? I've read so many headaches that I just decided to go the Noctua D15 route instead because I really want the R5.

The install was a breeze and everything fit fine. The R5 was made for big radiators and water cooling so no issues there. At idle and depending on the game everything is completely silent, so quiet you think its off. However during heavy loads the cooler fans kick in and it does get loud. I don't think it matters where you put the cooler especially when you're running a 5820k above 4.0ghz. If you're just doing work, streaming videos, listening to music, or using the internet you wouldn't even know the machine was on.
 

commissar

Member
So I am considering a second SSD and just wanted to confirm there's no *real world* performance reason to justify the expenditure on pice m.2 over a regular sata SSD considering I could get more storage for yhe same $?

I play games and occasionally render some video.
 

Woorloog

Banned
Well, the fucking glue residue is staying where it is.
Going to need something stronger than soapy water tomorrow but i have no idea what...
 
Gotta say, the Samuel 17 paired with the Ultra Sleek Vortex 14 is whisper quiet and cools pretty well for a sub 60mm cooling option. It fit in my Elite 130 with room to spare. I have a 120mm Gentle Typhoon as the intake and my PSU is the exhaust.The only noise I hear out of my HTPC now is the PSU fan and the Bluray drive when it's reading a disc. Much, MUCH better than the jet engine known as the Antec H2O 650.

Loving it, but haven't tried any overclocking yet.
I'm a 3.7GHz (4.0 turbo)on an A10-7850, so I may not overslock at all as it doesn't seem worth it..
 

longdi

Banned
Well, the fucking glue residue is staying where it is.
Going to need something stronger than soapy water tomorrow but i have no idea what...

Try using masking tape to pick up the residue. Make sure the heat sink is dry before you start taping it.
 
The install was a breeze and everything fit fine. The R5 was made for big radiators and water cooling so no issues there. At idle and depending on the game everything is completely silent, so quiet you think its off. However during heavy loads the cooler fans kick in and it does get loud. I don't think it matters where you put the cooler especially when you're running a 5820k above 4.0ghz. If you're just doing work, streaming videos, listening to music, or using the internet you wouldn't even know the machine was on.
I must have been thinking about the 110i. Didn't realize the 100i was smaller! Well shoot, now I can't decide between the D15 and the 100i GTX. Which one is easier to install?

So I am considering a second SSD and just wanted to confirm there's no *real world* performance reason to justify the expenditure on pice m.2 over a regular sata SSD considering I could get more storage for yhe same $?

I play games and occasionally render some video.
I was just looking into this, and you are correct. Save the M2 slot for when they are more affordable.
 
Anyone upgrade to Skylake from Sandy Bridge? Worth it, yay or nay? I know it should give me about a 20% boost... (mostly care about gaming).

I also know a GPU upgrade is almost always the way to go, if you have a reasonably modern Intel CPU.

Decisions, decisions.
 
so, i have this 4690k for some time, and i'm interesting in OC'ing it. thing is, compared to my last CPU, a 2500k, it feels like the quantity of variables and options increased tenfold. are things like Ucore,VCCIN, etc... that necessary? on the 2500k, i remember really just messing with the PLL, voltage and multiplier, and increasing the voltage until it was stable.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Anyone upgrade to Skylake from Sandy Bridge? Worth it, yay or nay? I know it should give me about a 20% boost... (mostly care about gaming).

I also know a GPU upgrade is almost always the way to go, if you have a reasonably modern Intel CPU.

Decisions, decisions.

Are you running any programs or running any games where your cpu seems to be holding you back? What are you overclocked to?
 

An1malhouse365

Neo Member
Ok so after putting my pc on hold for a while, I was able to contact amazon and they agreed to let me return the mobo (MSI Z170 krait Gaming Edition) despite being way out of the return period. (gotta love amazon for their customer service)

So it would seem that multiple people were complaining about this mobo because they've temporarily removed it from their site.

And so the hunt starts again.

I was looking at
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012NH05UW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Any thing else in that price range I should consider??
Note, I would like to keep a blk/wht theme to match the rest of my parts and would ideally like to keep it at amazon as thats where my credit is.

I5 6600k
8GB cosair vengance
Kraken x61 cooler
Nzxt phantom 530
 

MisterNoisy

Member
Ok so after putting my pc on hold for a while, I was able to contact amazon and they agreed to let me return the mobo (MSI Z170 krait Gaming Edition) despite being way out of the return period. (gotta love amazon for their customer service)

So it would seem that multiple people were complaining about this mobo because they've temporarily removed it from their site.

And so the hunt starts again.

I was looking at
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012NH05UW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Any thing else in that price range I should consider??
Note, I would like to keep a blk/wht theme to match the rest of my parts and would ideally like to keep it at amazon as thats where my credit is.

I5 6600k
8GB cosair vengance
Kraken x61 cooler
Nzxt phantom 530

That ASUS Z170-A you've linked seems like the easy choice. Alternately, the Gigabyte GA-Z170XP SLI, since it's pretty monochromatic.

Just finished respiffing my mITX portable machine - since it's really just going to be a couch gaming box/HTPC now, a bright orange Prodigy was a bit too much for the living room. Now it's in a Rosewill Neutron with a fan controller, a new 4GB R9 380 and some new fans. Rest of the machine stayed the same - 3570K, 16GB, etc.

uKuoHzq.jpg


YonkchR.jpg


X5gz8M0.jpg
 

ampere

Member
I think I've had it with my old machine, TDR errors and it being generally out of date. About 5.5 years old now. I bought a 240GB SSD pretty recently that I'll migrate to a new machine, and my monitor/keyboard/mouse/speakers, but otherwise I think I'm going to do a full new build. Gonna read this thread a good bit tomorrow and do some research. Hoping to spend less than $700 and see what I can do for that.

edit:
Is it easy to get Microsoft to free up my Windows 7 key from my current machine if I want to use it on my new one? I see some posts about reactivating it via phone, but they're pretty old. It was a key I got for free as a university student a few years ago.
 
Save the M2 slot for when they are more affordable.

I have the Gigabyte GA-Z97-D3H as mentioned in the OP (ATX version though) and it takes an M2 slot but at the expense of disabling 2 Sata ports!

Not sure if it's worth considering an M2. Also any other drawbacks on using an M2? Does it also negatively impact the PCIex-16 graphics card or something?
 

industrian

will gently cradle you as time slowly ticks away.
I have the Gigabyte GA-Z97-D3H as mentioned in the OP (ATX version though) and it takes an M2 slot but at the expense of disabling 2 Sata ports!

Not sure if it's worth considering an M2. Also any other drawbacks on using an M2? Does it also negatively impact the PCIex-16 graphics card or something?

The question I would ask to anyone who is worried about this is how many SATA devices do they actually use/plan to use. That motherboard has six SATA ports - four if using a M.2 drive. Using a M.2 drive as the OS/key programs drive would still allow users to have an optical drive, a games drive, and another two drives for backup or other purposes.

I doubt that using a M.2 would severely impact the performance of a graphics card. But it depends on how many PCIe devices you use and the quality of the motherboard.
 

Shaldome

Member
Damn, my pump died on me yesterday. Computer went down with a "blue" screen and was not able to boot into Windows again. I checked the inside of the computer and only saw that the water in the reservoir was a bit low. so I filled some more into it and tried again. Still nothing. Then I noticed that the water was not circulating.

So now I have to buy a new pump and hope nothing more got damaged.
 

d3vnull

Member
If you opt for that build with a GTX 980 Ti, then you will come extremely close. You might still have to turn a few settings a bit lower to ensure that the framerate won't dip under 60FPS. No, the GTX 980 and R9 390X cannot max out the Witcher 3 at 60FPS.

Here are some testing benchmarks by Eurogamer and Techspot. Keep in mind those testing results are with Nvidia Hairworks turned off. Once you turn that feature on you can expect major performance drops.
witcher-set-hairworks.png

Thanks for the info. Performance seems good enough for me. Now to wait for Intel to restock their new CPUs...
 

Rootbeer

Banned
Damn, my pump died on me yesterday. Computer went down with a "blue" screen and was not able to boot into Windows again. I checked the inside of the computer and only saw that the water in the reservoir was a bit low. so I filled some more into it and tried again. Still nothing. Then I noticed that the water was not circulating.

So now I have to buy a new pump and hope nothing more got damaged.

Sorry about your troubles. This is the sort of thing I would rather not deal with, which is why I decided to stick with air. (building my PC Friday if everything arrives on time -- can't wait!)
I have the Gigabyte GA-Z97-D3H as mentioned in the OP (ATX version though) and it takes an M2 slot but at the expense of disabling 2 Sata ports!

Not sure if it's worth considering an M2. Also any other drawbacks on using an M2? Does it also negatively impact the PCIex-16 graphics card or something?

With the Samsung 950 Pros coming out and looking like BEASTS on a whole new level, I have been really tempted to get one as my OS drive... i'm worried though because I have a lot of drives i want to put in my new rig and I don't want to compromise on that -or- my GPU in any way.

And I'm not sure if I would notice any difference between a Samsung 850 Pro despite the benchmarks being insanely different.

Current plan is to stick with the 850 Pro, wait it out and see what my SATA needs end up being after migrating everything... then I might mirror the 850 Pro to a 950 Pro and use 850 as a games drive.
 

Renekton

Member
Sorry about your troubles. This is the sort of thing I would rather not deal with, which is why I decided to stick with air. (building my PC Friday if everything arrives on time -- can't wait!)
That doesn't happen for closed loops tho, should u want more case space.
 

Sevenfold

Member
Damn, my pump died on me yesterday. Computer went down with a "blue" screen and was not able to boot into Windows again. I checked the inside of the computer and only saw that the water in the reservoir was a bit low. so I filled some more into it and tried again. Still nothing. Then I noticed that the water was not circulating.

So now I have to buy a new pump and hope nothing more got damaged.

Damn. CPU? GPU? Both? I hope thermal protection saved your chips dude. I had a watercooling system spring a leak back in the Asetek days of cheap brittle rubber and shit connections. Expensive.
 

jarosh

Member
Most SSD tweak guides recommend disabling the Windows search service. However, under Win 10, I find this pretty annoying. You can't search for apps or ANYTHING in the start menu with the service off. I already disabled file indexing. Is it really that beneficial to turn off the search service?
 

Nachtmaer

Member
Most SSD tweaking guides recommend disabling the Windows search service. However, under Win 10, I find this pretty annoying. You can't search for apps or ANYTHING in the start menu with the service off. I already disabled file indexing. Is it really that beneficial to turn off the search service?

I don't think I've ever seen turning off search being recommended for SSDs. I don't even see a reason why you'd do that anyway. I turned off indexing as well since caching search results on a drive that's already fast is pretty much pointless.
 

jarosh

Member
I don't think I've ever seen turning off search being recommended for SSDs. I don't even see a reason why you'd do that anyway. I turned off indexing as well since caching search results on a drive that's already fast is pretty much pointless.

It's literally in every guide I've come across, including the one linked in the OP http://www.thessdreview.com/ssd-gui...imization-guide-ultimate-windows-8-edition/4/

It says you are disabling Windows Search indexing. But without it, the entire Windows search simply doesn't work at all for me.
 

Kezen

Banned
Damn, my pump died on me yesterday. Computer went down with a "blue" screen and was not able to boot into Windows again. I checked the inside of the computer and only saw that the water in the reservoir was a bit low. so I filled some more into it and tried again. Still nothing. Then I noticed that the water was not circulating.

So now I have to buy a new pump and hope nothing more got damaged.

Exactly what scares me off going with water-cooling. At least if the fans stop working I'll notice it immediately.
 

Nachtmaer

Member
It's literally in every guide I've come across, including the one linked in the OP http://www.thessdreview.com/ssd-gui...imization-guide-ultimate-windows-8-edition/4/

It says you are disabling Windows Search indexing. But without it, the entire Windows search simply doesn't work at all for me.

That's new to me, but if search doesn't work at all you might as well leave it enabled. Some guides really go overboard with disabling things. An SSD isn't going to die if it has to do a few more writes here and there.
 

Rootbeer

Banned
Anyone upgrade to Skylake from Sandy Bridge?

I'm updating from Bloomfield. LOL... wow this is going to be quite a nice jump. If I were on Sandy Bridge I would probably still be considering it strongly.
That's new to me, but if search doesn't work at all you might as well leave it enabled. Some guides really go overboard with disabling things. An SSD isn't going to die if it has to do a few more writes here and there.

I agree... the tweeks designed to extend the life of your SSD aren't that important with modern SSDs... you are gonna want to replace it before it dies or comes close to the write threshhold. Way different scenario from traditional hard drives where it's probably more likely to die BEFORE you want to replace it :p

An 850 Pro should last around 2 million hours and 300 TBW, coupled with a ten year warranty. I think I'm good. You'd have to write over 75 gigs of data per day every day for 10 years to even come close to that number.
 

Shaldome

Member
Damn. CPU? GPU? Both? I hope thermal protection saved your chips dude. I had a watercooling system spring a leak back in the Asetek days of cheap brittle rubber and shit connections. Expensive.

I have both GPU and CPU in the loop. I thin it would not be so bad if I had realized from the start, that the pump is not working and not tried different thing and turned the computer on each time.

Would be bad if more has been damaged, had planned to upgrade at the end of next year.
 

Woorloog

Banned
Try using masking tape to pick up the residue. Make sure the heat sink is dry before you start taping it.

Didn't work. Sticky residue...

Guess i'll soak the bottom in a soapy water for some time?
Or is it likely there's some other suitable cleaning agent or something? Vodka?

I mean, as long as i don't scratch it, and whatever i use doesn't do anything to the metal (it is copper, right?), it should be ok to try, no?



EDIT By the way, the Z170-A manual doesn't list the memory i have as support. I assume it will still work? Should i update BIOS for hardware compatibility?
 

ruttyboy

Member
Didn't work. Sticky residue...

Guess i'll soak the bottom in a soapy water for some time?
Or is it likely there's some other suitable cleaning agent or something? Vodka?

I mean, as long as i don't scratch it, and whatever i use doesn't do anything to the metal (it is copper, right?), it should be ok to try, no?



EDIT By the way, the Z170-A manual doesn't list the memory i have as support. I assume it will still work? Should i update BIOS for hardware compatibility?

Just use some meths to take it off.

EDIT: Meths
 

Woorloog

Banned
Just use some meths to take it off.

Meths?
EDIT Ah, i see. Now i need to figure under what name such thing is sold here... sigh.
EDIT Ah, figured it out.

EDIT Olive oil seems to be working. Now i just need to carefully and thoroughly clean any oil from it.
EDIT Correction, nope. It took worst of it, i think, but not all. Sigh...
 

ruttyboy

Member
Meths?
EDIT Ah, i see. Now i need to figure under what name such thing is sold here... sigh.
EDIT Ah, figured it out.

EDIT Olive oil seems to be working. Now i just need to carefully and thoroughly clean any oil from it.
EDIT Correction, nope. It took worst of it, i think, but not all. Sigh...

Seriously, meths, it will take it straight off and costs nothing.
 
Is an air cooler like Noctua NH-D15 going to do a better job of keeping the air moving and cool than a liquid cooler like H100i GTX?

i.e. Are liquid coolers focused solely on the CPU? And which type is easier to install?
 
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