Infernoabyss
Member
SV300S37A/120G
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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SV300S37A/120G
Durrzerker
Banned
Now that I know of. I don't see any cracks or breaks.
I found beep codes for the P67, it looks like it has plenty. None of them are functioning, though. All lights stay off on the motherboard and none of the beep codes play.
I've tried every RAM stick in every slot. Also, I put all of them in upside down, then tried to boot originally. I didn't realize they were upside-down for awhile. That's what I'm concerned broke the motherboard.
arts&crafts
Member
Thanks I will just do this.
Asus keeps their BIOS looking similar across most models.
Oh, in that case you could opt for a better SSD. Kingston has been producing the V300 for quite a while, and some time ago they started producing it with lower quality parts which made it a much worse performing SSD, although they haven't changed the model number or updated the specs to reflect it. A better SSD like the Crucial BX100 is easily three times faster in read speed.
shadow2810
Member
Wait so you can use mouse in BIOS? I feel old now.
Received? Does that mean it's used? If brand new then the stock cooler for your processor comes with thermal paste pre-applied to it, but if it has already been used, then you will need to buy new paste. The pre-applied thermal paste looks like this.
That's been a thing for the last 4-5 years, to give you an idea of how long it's been.
xplicitone
Member
I upgraded my copy of Windows 7 to 10. I now want it on a new SSD that'll replace my old that the OS is currently on. Anybody have success doing this?
I might just do a clone but it seems risky.
I might just do a clone but it seems risky.
It's pretty safe to clone to a new SSD. You're literally making a copy, so no files will be lost. Just don't format your old drive until you're sure the new SSD works fine. Follow a guide like this and you'll be fine.
I've used Macrium Reflect free edition (the software mentioned in that guide) and I've had no issues transferring OS to a new storage device. It's pretty much flawless, nothing in Windows was broken or even changed. The computer doesn't care what storage device it is, as long as all of the important files and partitions are there. Just make sure to clone over the entire disk including all partitions (the tiny system partitions), not just the one containing Windows.
I'm not sure if this is the right thread but I don't think it warrents a new thread. So I have been having big troubles with getting Bloops 3 to work on my PC. I takes 5-10 minutes to load, (if it does at all) Navigating is slow and painful. I haven't been able to come close to playing a match and it is killing me since I spent good money on this game. Any other game has no problems for me. Here are my specs...
Asus M4A785TD-V
AMD Phenom II x4 965 3.40 GHz
AMD Raedon 6970
4 GB Ram
Windows 7 64bit
Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Is my problem hardware related?
Asus M4A785TD-V
AMD Phenom II x4 965 3.40 GHz
AMD Raedon 6970
4 GB Ram
Windows 7 64bit
Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Is my problem hardware related?
If it is like MGSV, it probably doesn't support older cpu's well. MGSV was patched quickly though.
If no other game has issues, then it seems likely to be an issue with the game itself. It's a Steam game, right? Have you tried verifying the game files?
ah crap. one of the stupid plastic anchor posts on my i5's cooler busted when I tried to install it... hope I didn't hurt the moboard.
ordered a 3rd party cooler... because fuck cheap plastic shit on expensive hardware.
The plastic tips, right? I was dealing with an old cooler a few weeks ago and the plastic tips split apart, it was a massive pain in the ass. What cooler did you order?
The cooler Master 212 that is recommended in the op.
EDIT: ya, it was the tip that split right apart...
StarlordDial
Member
Ok.. just wanna update my report regarding my pc turning off:
Played Witcher 3 this time to test if it shuts down again and it did not shut down
O____o did changing my vga port to vga 2 work i guess? idk
wheeew
my temperature was all good and nothing was going haywire or out of control
so hopefully my issue is resolved now ^_^
i hope
Played Witcher 3 this time to test if it shuts down again and it did not shut down
O____o did changing my vga port to vga 2 work i guess? idk
wheeew
my temperature was all good and nothing was going haywire or out of control
so hopefully my issue is resolved now ^_^
i hope
Getting ready to upgrade my CPU in the next few weeks. I am planing to get the i7 6700k but its out of stock and the few places I find them are charging over MSRP. Did a quick internet search and cant find anything on restock dates, any of you know when I can expect to be able to get one anytime soon?
Edit: That is in the US by the way.
Microcenter is not an option for me 4 hour drive. But I will set the alerts with the places you mentioned. I am not in that big of a hurry my Fx 8320 is still doing fine. Just want to get back to Intel, and that ddr4. Thanks for the info much appreciated.
Edit: That is in the US by the way.
Microcenter is not an option for me 4 hour drive. But I will set the alerts with the places you mentioned. I am not in that big of a hurry my Fx 8320 is still doing fine. Just want to get back to Intel, and that ddr4. Thanks for the info much appreciated.
The 6700k has been a hot item.
https://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80662i56600k
Do you have a microcenter nearby? I would call them and ask.
amazon had it in stock earlier today. But it sold out in an hour or so. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012M8LXQW/?tag=neogaf0e-20 Amazon was charging 349.99 but they boosted it to 369.99, probably due to the demand/shortages.
setup alerts on pcpartpicker, newegg, amazon, etc. maybe you can get lucky. You might have to go with a 6600k if you are determined to go skylake in short order. I've seen a lot of people in this thread building with 6600ks and I think it's probably due to the shortage of 6700ks
I managed to catch it in stock about 3 weeks ago when buying my parts. It will go back in stock for short bursts if you keep your eyes open.
https://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80662i56600k
Do you have a microcenter nearby? I would call them and ask.
amazon had it in stock earlier today. But it sold out in an hour or so. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012M8LXQW/?tag=neogaf0e-20 Amazon was charging 349.99 but they boosted it to 369.99, probably due to the demand/shortages.
setup alerts on pcpartpicker, newegg, amazon, etc. maybe you can get lucky. You might have to go with a 6600k if you are determined to go skylake in short order. I've seen a lot of people in this thread building with 6600ks and I think it's probably due to the shortage of 6700ks
I managed to catch it in stock about 3 weeks ago when buying my parts. It will go back in stock for short bursts if you keep your eyes open.
This blew my mind as well. They have come pretty far in just a few years. Damn, it feels so good not to be using that 'ancient' 2009 build anymore I was crawling along with.
Hey all, still fiddling through issues with my build I finished a few months ago..
Occasionally, a boot will be a bit "off".
It will take a little longer for the Windows logo to dissipate (often it doesn't even get a chance to form because it boots so quick).
Sometimes my Keyboard and Mouse won't be recognised (the LEDs on my keyboard don't come on when this occurs).
Sometimes it boots straight to a blank screen with a blinking cursor. Powering off (5s) seems to fix it...but it will continue to rear it's head.
To note, I usually turn off the power (from the powerpoint) each night when I'm done using it..obviously after shutting down
Specs are..
- Intel Core i5 6600K
- ASUS Z170-AR Motherboard
- Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5in SSD
- Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK16GX4M2A2400C14 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 Black
- CoolerMaster G750M 750W Modular Bronze Power Supply
- CoolerMaster Hyper 212X CPU Cooler
- Phanteks Enthoo Pro Chassis Black
Is this a CD/DVD drive going stupid? Should I take it off the BIOS bootlist? Or a deeper problem?
Occasionally, a boot will be a bit "off".
It will take a little longer for the Windows logo to dissipate (often it doesn't even get a chance to form because it boots so quick).
Sometimes my Keyboard and Mouse won't be recognised (the LEDs on my keyboard don't come on when this occurs).
Sometimes it boots straight to a blank screen with a blinking cursor. Powering off (5s) seems to fix it...but it will continue to rear it's head.
To note, I usually turn off the power (from the powerpoint) each night when I'm done using it..obviously after shutting down
Specs are..
- Intel Core i5 6600K
- ASUS Z170-AR Motherboard
- Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5in SSD
- Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK16GX4M2A2400C14 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 Black
- CoolerMaster G750M 750W Modular Bronze Power Supply
- CoolerMaster Hyper 212X CPU Cooler
- Phanteks Enthoo Pro Chassis Black
Is this a CD/DVD drive going stupid? Should I take it off the BIOS bootlist? Or a deeper problem?
Jzero
Member
That's a nice looking UEFI. The Gigabyte UEFI that i have is slow and shitty.
Hello there, I hope someone could me with this inquiry please.
The Lamonster
Member
Pics of my first build!
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/P7YZMp
(the cable management looks better in person)
Congrats. Keep an eye out for the temps just to be sure, and don't hesitate to check if your cooler is well in place.
The Lamonster
Member
Where should they typically be? CPU has been around 29° at idle.
Download CPUID hardware monitor here and check once in a while. No reason to be paranoid, but it never hurts to be sure.
http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
29° is completely fine at idle.
You can also download and install GPU-Z to check various thing, like PCI-E speed.
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/
CPU-Z is also recommended.
The Lamonster
Member
Will do, thanks. Planning to comb thru the software suggestions in the OP later today.
Just meant the list of processes, the view which shows it with .exe file names, not the modern view.
Terbinator
Member
So has anyone found a solution to Asus' shitty Z170(x)Qualcomm drivers borking on Windows 10? Having an ethernet cabling trailing my rooms defeats the object of me going for a small footprint ITX build.
Terbinator
Member
BSOD with the wifi/Qualcomm driver installed. Seems to be a known issue with this chipset with no form of solution.
Edit:http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/...s/e8da0651-b9a1-4b6b-b9d1-1893122baff1?auth=1
None of these guys seem to be getting a BSOD on start like me, but it's clear there is an issue.
Shadowhaxor
Member
The Lamonster
Member
I noticed Speccy is saying my GPU has less memory than it should:
2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 Ti (EVGA)
The EVGA Classified is supposed to have 6GB, what am I missing?
2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 Ti (EVGA)
The EVGA Classified is supposed to have 6GB, what am I missing?
haha thanks
opticalmace
Member
Speccy probably just being dumb. Try GPU-Z.
The Lamonster
Member
I just came back to edit. GPU-Z has it at 6144MB
What do you guys recommend for free security? Is Windows Defender sufficient for real-time protection, and Malwarebytes for regular scanning? Microsoft Security Essentials was folded into Windows Defender for Windows 10, right?
Alcoholikaust
Member
Congrats
Building basically the same PC-6700k 980ti EVGA SC
seeing your progress is making the wait for my last parts to ship all the more horrible :/
bluntspoon
Neo Member
I agree with the thought its likely a file related issue.
Games can be weird though, I couldn't get Dirt3 to run reliably not matter what I did when everything else runs perfect.
Edit: Looks like you need at least 6GB of ram, that may be your issue.
I just had my Corsair AX750 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003QP417E/) die on me.
Well pretty sure it died anyway:
1. Started only powering up when using switch on actual PSU having previously started up 10 - 60 seconds after hitting switch on front of PC
2. PC just shutting down for no apparent reason
3. Light on mobo is on, but even shorting mobo PSU contacts fails to boot PC
...so...are the 'new' Corsair AX models compatible with my existing modular cables?
Well pretty sure it died anyway:
1. Started only powering up when using switch on actual PSU having previously started up 10 - 60 seconds after hitting switch on front of PC
2. PC just shutting down for no apparent reason
3. Light on mobo is on, but even shorting mobo PSU contacts fails to boot PC
...so...are the 'new' Corsair AX models compatible with my existing modular cables?
Arrogant Bastard
Banned
Current: i7 930, 6gb ram, ASUS P6X58D-E, GTX 460, Corsair 620
Want to upgrade for FO4 and SW. I have to be honest, I really don't want to completely rebuild a pc right now. Would much rather OC the 930 and just buy a new video card as the 460 is just not cutting it. Bad idea or do I really need to rebuild?
Want to upgrade for FO4 and SW. I have to be honest, I really don't want to completely rebuild a pc right now. Would much rather OC the 930 and just buy a new video card as the 460 is just not cutting it. Bad idea or do I really need to rebuild?
opticalmace
Member
Good idea, not bad.
FairXchange
Member
Guys, I need some help. Just installed a new R9 390 in my pc, works great and all is fine regarding the card. The problem is the PC doesn't power down anymore, and will restart everytime that I select 'shutdown'. It also does this when I hard power down. Any ideas or tips, it would be much appreciated!
Quick update on this as I'm not sure what the hell is going on...
1. PC for some time has not started when pressing the front case power switch.
2. It sometimes came on 10-60 seconds after pressing the switch, sometimes not at all even after repeated 'clicks'
3. I found a 'workaround' which involved simply pressing the main PSU power switch 'off' and then back 'on'. The PC then booted normally nearly all of the time. In some cases this might take a couple of goes.
4. PC has now started just shutting down, no matter what I'm doing, be it gaming or just AFK on GAF it might just shut down,
5. The green mobo light is always on if the PSU is plugged in.
6. I'm now at the stage when simply nothing works with any certainty. I can leave it an hour and it might come on with front panel or main PSU switch. Sometimes it will come on if I remove the actual PSU cable and re-insert it.
7. I noticed a (notoriously crappy) ASUS pop-up bottom right warning there was an issue with the 3.3V rail for the first time ever today. I'm not reading too much into that but it is worthy of note.
...so...time to slam in a new PSU or any Gaffers got any ideas?
1. PC for some time has not started when pressing the front case power switch.
2. It sometimes came on 10-60 seconds after pressing the switch, sometimes not at all even after repeated 'clicks'
3. I found a 'workaround' which involved simply pressing the main PSU power switch 'off' and then back 'on'. The PC then booted normally nearly all of the time. In some cases this might take a couple of goes.
4. PC has now started just shutting down, no matter what I'm doing, be it gaming or just AFK on GAF it might just shut down,
5. The green mobo light is always on if the PSU is plugged in.
6. I'm now at the stage when simply nothing works with any certainty. I can leave it an hour and it might come on with front panel or main PSU switch. Sometimes it will come on if I remove the actual PSU cable and re-insert it.
7. I noticed a (notoriously crappy) ASUS pop-up bottom right warning there was an issue with the 3.3V rail for the first time ever today. I'm not reading too much into that but it is worthy of note.
...so...time to slam in a new PSU or any Gaffers got any ideas?
opticalmace
Member
I would take your PSU to a local computer shop, they will probably test it for you for free (at mine they had a special apparatus just for testing PSUs). Sounds like it could be the culprit, but another possibility I suppose would be your motherboard. Try to check the PSU first.
The Lamonster
Member
That sucks! I really lucked out. I happen to have a Micro Center here in STL and the parts they didn't have I was able to order through Amazon Prime.
Well, some five or so years since my last PC build (RIP i7 920), I'm finally ready to enter the modern PC era of SSDs, hyper expensive video cards and a display that isn't a 22" TN. Exciting! My...wallet is a little less enthusiastic, though...
Questionnaire as per the OP:
Your Current Specs (Last PC. No longer own as left behind when I moved. Shows what I'm coming from though!):
Main Use:
Games: ARMA3 & DayZ. Elite Dangerous, Ark, TW3, GTAV and most other AAA titles.
FPS: Last PC was pushed well beyond its years, so I'm quite used to playing most games at 20-25FPS. Not ideal, obviously! But I'm not super strict on 'omgzorz this isn't 60FPS'
Looking to reuse any parts?: None.
When will you build?: End of November.
Will you be overclocking?: Definite yes.
Builds:
Onto the builds! I am currently in two minds over whether Haswell-E or Skylake presents the better option. They both offer a convincing argument. I was faced with a similar situation with my last build, and went with the i7 920 which lasted me far longer than I ever expected it to. Was definitely the right option! So given the relatively small price difference between them I'm tempted to go Haswell-E given the extra cores. Happy for opinions on this though!
Possible Builds:
Note: All prices are via Pricespy.co.nz. I know, these prices are insane. That's what I get for living in Middle Earth...
1. Haswell-E
PriceSpy Link: http://pricespy.co.nz/list.php?l=185286&view=m
2. Skylake
PriceSpy List: http://pricespy.co.nz/list.php?l=180191&view=m
As mentioned, I'm interested in any arguments in support/against either option. As well as any ideas on where I can improve on the parts lists. Budget is a little flexible, so I'm happy to stretch a little further if it means improved performance. Similarly, happy to cut back if the performance gains aren't there.
Thanks!
Questionnaire as per the OP:
Your Current Specs (Last PC. No longer own as left behind when I moved. Shows what I'm coming from though!):
- i7 920
- Gigabyte EX58-UD3R
- 6GB DDR3
- GTX 285
- Corsair 650W
- WD 640GB Blue
- CM690
Main Use:
- Light Gaming - 1
- Gaming - 5
- Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 5
- Video Editing - 3
- Streaming games in HD - 3
- 3D/Model work (and what program) - 1
- General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 4
Games: ARMA3 & DayZ. Elite Dangerous, Ark, TW3, GTAV and most other AAA titles.
FPS: Last PC was pushed well beyond its years, so I'm quite used to playing most games at 20-25FPS. Not ideal, obviously! But I'm not super strict on 'omgzorz this isn't 60FPS'
Looking to reuse any parts?: None.
When will you build?: End of November.
Will you be overclocking?: Definite yes.
Builds:
Onto the builds! I am currently in two minds over whether Haswell-E or Skylake presents the better option. They both offer a convincing argument. I was faced with a similar situation with my last build, and went with the i7 920 which lasted me far longer than I ever expected it to. Was definitely the right option! So given the relatively small price difference between them I'm tempted to go Haswell-E given the extra cores. Happy for opinions on this though!
Possible Builds:
Note: All prices are via Pricespy.co.nz. I know, these prices are insane. That's what I get for living in Middle Earth...
1. Haswell-E
- Intel Core i7 5820K - $560
- Noctua NH-D14 CPU cooler - $137.89
- Asus X99-A Motherboard - $459
- Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 PC21300/2666MHz CL15 2x8GB - $218
- Crucial BX100 500GB SSD - $283.45
- NZXT H440 (White/Black/Transparent) - $218.50
- Cooler Master V750S 750W PSU - $193
- Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti G1 Gaming 6GB - $1149.95
PriceSpy Link: http://pricespy.co.nz/list.php?l=185286&view=m
2. Skylake
- Intel Core i7 6700K - $589
- Noctua NH-D14 CPU cooler - $137.89
- Asus Z170-AR - $278.45
- Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 PC21300/2666MHz CL15 2x8GB - $218
- Crucial BX100 500GB SSD - $283.45
- NZXT H440 (White/Black/Transparent) - $218.50
- Cooler Master V750S 750W PSU - $193
- Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti G1 Gaming 6GB - $1149.95
PriceSpy List: http://pricespy.co.nz/list.php?l=180191&view=m
As mentioned, I'm interested in any arguments in support/against either option. As well as any ideas on where I can improve on the parts lists. Budget is a little flexible, so I'm happy to stretch a little further if it means improved performance. Similarly, happy to cut back if the performance gains aren't there.
Thanks!
I verified the files but that doesn't seem to work. I think I just wasted $50
Updated the graphics drivers? Should have asked that in the beginning.
It's time for a new PSU. You want to avoid undoing and redoing the cable management, huh? According to this link both your AX750 and the new AX760 are made by Seasonic, but after so many years it seems at least some of the cables seem to have changed.
AX750 modular ports
AX760 modular ports
There are 12 pin cables on your AX750 that don't match any of the ports on the AX760. I think it's best to not reuse the old AX750 cables. You're in the UK, I assume? What's your budget for a new power supply?
Agreed, your i7 930 still has some life in it, and the GTX 460 is holding back your PC far more than your processor. I won't say that the i7 930 isn't a bottleneck at all, but a new graphics card will do well for you.
CosmicQueso
Member
All other things being equal, does 24 GB of RAM do you all that much better than 12GB running 1440p resolution?
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
Do you mean 5930K? For $560 I imagined so, unless the price for 5820K is crazy high in your area.
Also, if you are going with X99, have 4x4GB instead of 2x8GB, to take advantage of the quad channel. (unless you are planning on going 4x8GB in the future, the difference of quad channel is not really considerable, but I thought it could be cheaper)
Haha, yep. Welcome to the joys of New Zealand tech pricing! I laugh so I don't cry...
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