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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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RGM79

Member
Need some help solving a problem.

I picked up a 380 to replace my old 5770. I'm getting a black screen only.

Card was firmly in slot, connected the 2 6pin power connectors that were available, the fans on the gpu were spinning. I put old card back in and video is available once again.

Is it the power supply(both 6 pins are coming off the same line, does that matter?)?

Is it the motherboard(I haven't updated since I purchased it back in 2011)?

my components

2500k
MSI Mobo
Antec 650 Power Supply
R9 380

Try using separate cables for the two 6 pin connectors. Other than that it should work, hopefully you didn't get a defective R9 380. How are you connecting the graphics card to your monitor, are you using a different connector and cable from what you were using on the 5770?

I suppose you could try a BIOS update, just be careful about it. Do not update your BIOS from within Windows, you should download the latest BIOS update, put it onto a USB drive, and use the M-Flash function in the BIOS menu to update the motherboard.

Guys, I'd appreciate some input.
I bought a pair of Sennheiser's RS 180 headphones (labeled as "audiophile headphones"). Do you think I'd notice any major difference between my onboard sound card and one of those fancy creative ones? I searched a lot, but had no defiinitive answer.

I think you're looking for an objective answer to a subjective question. In other words, how you perceive audio quality largely depends on you, although there are other factors that can play into it. What motherboard do you have? If your onboard sound is particularly bad or subject to interference, a discrete sound card or USB sound adaptor might sound differently or better.
 

Shepard

Member
I think you're looking for an objective answer to a subjective question. In other words, it totally depends on you, although there are other factors that can play into it. What motherboard do you have? If your onboard sound is particularly bad or subject to interference, a discrete sound card or USB sound adaptor might sound differently.

Thanks for answering. I have a kinda old Mobo (a GA-B75M-D2V from Gigabyte). I was looking for a sound boost, as I find the new headphones volume a tad lower than my previous ones.
 
I decided to get the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for my i5.

If I use that, what can I overclock to? What do you recommend?

Also any tutorials on how to do this? Haven't done it since I had a celuron in 2001
 

phaonaut

Member
Try using separate cables for the two 6 pin connectors. Other than that it should work, hopefully you didn't get a defective R9 380. How are you connecting the graphics card to your monitor, are you using a different connector and cable from what you were using on the 5770?

I suppose you could try a BIOS update, just be careful about it. Do not update your BIOS from within Windows, you should download the latest BIOS update, put it onto a USB drive, and use the M-Flash function in the BIOS menu to update the motherboard.
.

I tried using one the 6 pin pci-e connectors and a molex (2x) to 6 pin and it powered it like before but still getting a black screen. I tried hdmi and dvi on two different monitors and neither showed anything.

I guess I can try the bios update, but I've never done it before. Hate to break everything completely.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks for answering. I have a kinda old Mobo (a GA-B75M-D2V from Gigabyte). I was looking for a sound boost, as I find the new headphones volume a tad lower than my previous ones.

I just looked up what headphones you have, and yours are wireless. If you're looking for a volume boost, that may have more to do with your headphones than than the source. I'm not totally clear on how impedance works with wireless headphones but before you get a sound card with a stronger amp, have you tried changing the attenuation switch to "0 dB" on the transmitter as listed on page 13/14 of the manual?
 

Shepard

Member
I just looked up what headphones you have, and yours are wireless. If you're looking for a volume boost, that may have more to do with your headphones than than the source. I'm not totally clear on how impedance works with wireless headphones but before you get a sound card with a stronger amp, have you tried changing the attenuation switch to "0 dB" on the transmitter as listed on page 13/14 of the manual?
Yes I did. I've been reading a bit about designated sound cards and they do seem to offer a good sound boost. Also, I connected the headphones directly into my TV and I the difference is enormous: I can get a nice volume boost and everything still sounds crystal clear. I guess my main main problem is the source (mobo) volume output.
 

RGM79

Member
Yes I did. I've been reading a bit about designated sound cards and they do seem to offer a good sound boost. Also, I connected the headphones directly into my TV and I the difference is enormous: I can get a nice volume boost and everything still sounds crystal clear. I guess my main main problem is the source (mobo) volume output.

Alright, sounds like a sound card is what you need then. Unfortunately I don't know a lot of sound cards. Asus sound cards seem to offer decent quality for a low price, a friend of mine uses one (unclear which model) with his Sennheiser PC350, before that the volume from his Z87 motherboard's onboard audio was inadequate.
 

Shepard

Member
Alright, sounds like a sound card is what you need then. Unfortunately I don't know a lot of sound cards. Asus sound cards seem to offer decent quality for a low price, a friend of mine uses one (unclear which model) with his Sennheiser PC350, before that the volume from his Z87 motherboard's onboard audio was inadequate.
Thanks a lot, I'll take a look on the Asus ones. Will set for a midrange card as I really dont want to spend much more money :p
 

RGM79

Member
somewhat off topic, but have any of you had any experience with refurbished items from Newegg

What are you looking at? Not all refurbished items are the same quality. Some might not even have anything to do with Newegg, it may be that some other company refurbishes them and then Newegg orders the stock from them to sell to customers.
 
So my brother finished his computer a few hours ago and it wont boot when RAM is in channel a (either DIMM 1 or 2). It does work when put on slots 3 or 4, so it is not the RAM. Before he returns the mobo, is there any chance that it could be something else?
 

MikeDown

Banned
What are you looking at? Not all refurbished items are the same quality. Some might not even have anything to do with Newegg, it may be that some other company refurbishes them and then Newegg orders the stock from them to sell to customers.
For the price it isn't a bad deal, but I just kinda have reservations. I was originally thinking about building a PC from scratch for my sister, but time constraints don't make that an option.
 

Finaika

Member
Just wanted to say thanks to this thread and everyone who helped me build my new PC. Its been almost 10 years since I've built a desktop, and jumping from my 5 year old laptop with a dual core CPU & GTX 460M, its quite an upgrade :)

Intel Core i7-6700K
Asus Maximus VIII Ranger Z170
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 2666MHz
MSI GTX 980Ti Gaming 6G
Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB
1TB WD Blue WD10EZEX
Super Flower Leadex Gold 750W
Phanteks Enthoo Pro
Asus DVDRW 24X
Cooler Master Hyper 212X

Hey fellow Malaysian.

I pretty much did the same configuration for my new PC this year (helped by RGM of course) except was using a Haswell processor. Still runs awesome and I'm very happy with it.

In terms of getting parts, check with Amazon, although the exchange rate is crazy at the moment, most of the computer parts prices are relatively close and sometimes the US has cheaper prices due to the bigger market they serve. Particularly with the graphics card you may be able to get a free game out of it (sometimes they don't have the same promotion locally.)

Secondly if you're in KL as I'm sure you know just go to Lowyat Plaza and shop around. A couple of them have price lists online, Viewnet, Jayacom and Cycom.

Finally I got most of my parts from Amazon and Lelong. Lelong prices were pretty reasonable, got most of them from Castle IT (their service is pretty slow) but everything was shipped at a reasonable time and all worked well.

Btw there's basically no difference between the 212X and the 212 Evo, as you say its the updated version. Check it fits in your case cause its quite tall. Oh and don't get a 550W power supply like I did cause its now limited my upgrading potential... go the 650W or 750W. :)

Thanks for the help. I got my parts from Digital Mall :)
 

kuYuri

Member
Yeah I'm thinking about going for the Pro.

What's the difference between the ACer XB271Hu and the Xb270Hu?

Hadn't heard of the 271.

271 is the new version coming out around now, it has 165hz refresh with G-Sync enabled vs 144 of the 270, but otherwise they are identical. I just mentioned the 271 since it's newer and you seem like you don't mind spending the money. Either one is fine honestly, I have the 270 and love it.

I would personally go with the PG279Q at this point for the extra HDMI input and slightly better aesthetic design.
 
I purchased this GIGABYTE GTX 970 as a replacement for my GTX 660 and it's turned out to be a horrible decision. The GPU's twin turbo fan makes an obnoxious buzzing noise whenever I'm playing games. It sounds like I accidentally left a weed wacker in my computer case.

So if anyone is looking for GTX 970 I'd strongly recommend staying away from the GIGABYTE model with twin turbo fans.
 

RGM79

Member
I purchased this GIGABYTE GTX 970 as a replacement for my GTX 660 and it's turned out to be a horrible decision. The GPU's twin turbo fan makes an obnoxious buzzing noise whenever I'm playing games. It sounds like I accidentally left a weed wacker in my computer case.

So if anyone is looking for GTX 970 I'd strongly recommend staying away from the GIGABYTE model with twin turbo fans.

Yep, we almost never recommend graphic cards with blower-type coolers.
 
Looking to buy a new motherboard to replace my faulty one. Its going to be running my 4670k and GTX 770.

Here's what I'm thinking of getting:http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-Gaming-Mini-ITX-Motherboard-chipset/dp/B00KSJF3J6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1447397251&sr=8-6&keywords=Z97+itx

Is this a good choice? I'm looking to stay with Amazon UK due to customer support and prime delivery.

Would any of you recommend a different Has well compatible ITX from Amazon?

Thanks.
Yes, it is a good board.
 
271 is the new version coming out around now, it has 165hz refresh with G-Sync enabled vs 144 of the 270, but otherwise they are identical. I just mentioned the 271 since it's newer and you seem like you don't mind spending the money. Either one is fine honestly, I have the 270 and love it.

I would personally go with the PG279Q at this point for the extra HDMI input and slightly better aesthetic design.

Hah its not that I dont mind spending money per se but im happy to spend a lot atm...although i suppose theres not much difference. Does G Sync still require DisplayPort or am i incorrect in thinking that it ever did?
 

kuYuri

Member
Hah its not that I dont mind spending money per se but im happy to spend a lot atm...although i suppose theres not much difference. Does G Sync still require DisplayPort or am i incorrect in thinking that it ever did?

I believe so, yes, but Displayport is still required if you want 120+hz since HDMI can't do anything above 60hz.

The HDMI is a backup more than anything, for example if you want to connect consoles to the monitor or something like that.
 
I wanna buy a new case.
Now I am wondering.

Which SLI mATX case would be good. I am not sure whether I should buy the Bitfenix Prodigy M or the Phenom. The Prodigy would be better, since I have to Lan parties quite often with friends.
I also want to buy a Pascal card next year (maybe even SLI) with a new mainboard, RAM etc.

So any suggestions for a new case and maybe a new PSU for a Pascal card next year?
 

Mikeside

Member
I just got a mid sized bitfenix case with 1x120mm fan on the back and 2x on the front.


The bank slot is an intake for my watercooling and I've got 2 blowing air out of the front of my case.

It's getting a little bit warm in there and my current fans are noiiiiiisy

Any suggestions on good, quiet fans that will keep me cool or maybe even a better setup to use in there?


Additionally, if I wanted to think about keeping my 970 cooler, do I have any reasonably cheap options that aren't going to make my PC sound like a jet taking off?


Please and thank you :)
 

ruttyboy

Member
Are there any 'go-to' case fans for silence?

I'm not 100% happy with the noise from my new Nanoxia Deep Silence 1 (although I may have unrealistic expectations).

I'm planning on replacing the case fans that came with it and the fan on my 212X. I have three Sharkoon 120mm fans spare for some reason (also used them for my old PC so must have bought too many at some point) so that will take care of the two front fans and the 212X (unless you guys think they wouldn't be suitable), but there's a 140mm fan on the back I'd need to buy for. Any recommendations?
 
Are there any 'go-to' case fans for silence?

I'm not 100% happy with the noise from my new Nanoxia Deep Silence 1 (although I may have unrealistic expectations).

I'm planning on replacing the case fans that came with it and the fan on my 212X. I have three Sharkoon 120mm fans spare for some reason (also used them for my old PC so must have bought too many at some point) so that will take care of the two front fans and the 212X (unless you guys think they wouldn't be suitable), but there's a 140mm fan on the back I'd need to buy for. Any recommendations?
Noctua fans are known for their silence, especially the 120mm ones
 
I've decided to go for a Fractal design R5 and a full size ATX board instead of sticking to ITX. I've narrowed it down to these two Gigabyte Z97 motherboards on Amazon:

1: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00K9R1H1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1447422161&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=z97+gigabyte&dpPl=1&dpID=515OkEWBJ3L&ref=plSrch


2:http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00K9R1MYW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1447422161&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=z97+gigabyte&dpPl=1&dpID=51jOdgoeIbL&ref=plSrch

What do you guys think? The first one has a massive discount on it, is it worth the extra over the second one though? I'm never going SLI and I don't care about gamerzzz features like killer NIC or dedicated audio hardware junk. I'm definitely OCing my 4670k though.

I need to buy it in the next 5 hours to get in the Prime delivery deadline for tomorrow.

Thanks again guys.
 

LQX

Member
I purchased this GIGABYTE GTX 970 as a replacement for my GTX 660 and it's turned out to be a horrible decision. The GPU's twin turbo fan makes an obnoxious buzzing noise whenever I'm playing games. It sounds like I accidentally left a weed wacker in my computer case.

So if anyone is looking for GTX 970 I'd strongly recommend staying away from the GIGABYTE model with twin turbo fans.

What made you go with that card in particular over the other well reviewed cards in the same price range?
 

OkayRene

Member
Between Asus, MSI, and EVGA is there a no-brainer choice for a GTX 970? Or can you not go wrong either way? I'm looking for one that balances power, temp, and noise the best.

Also why are there so many different configurations for each brand??
 

LilJoka

Member
Between Asus, MSI, and EVGA is there a no-brainer choice for a GTX 970? Or can you not go wrong either way? I'm looking for one that balances power, temp, and noise the best.

Also why are there so many different configurations for each brand??

http://www.overclock.net/t/1516121/gtx-970-comparison-strix-vs-msi-gaming-vs-gigabyte-g1

Asus
-Quietest, fans off below 60c
-Lowest internal clocks of all cards (hence lower TDP and heat)

MSI
-2nd quietest, fans off below 60c
-2nd best overclocker
-Better power phase design than the Asus

EVGA
-Overclocks the worst
-Similar noise profile to MSI

Gigabyte G1
-Has a backplate
-Overclocks the best
-Best power delivery circuitry
-Louder than the MSI, does not have a fans off mode

IMO MSI version is the best compromise. And BIOS flashing can get that locked internal clock to match the core clock speeds, i have mine from 1200Mhz to 1500Mhz on the L2 cache speed, and core at 1520Mhz, memory at 3900Mhz.
 

RGM79

Member
I just got a mid sized bitfenix case with 1x120mm fan on the back and 2x on the front.


The bank slot is an intake for my watercooling and I've got 2 blowing air out of the front of my case.

It's getting a little bit warm in there and my current fans are noiiiiiisy

Any suggestions on good, quiet fans that will keep me cool or maybe even a better setup to use in there?


Additionally, if I wanted to think about keeping my 970 cooler, do I have any reasonably cheap options that aren't going to make my PC sound like a jet taking off?


Please and thank you :)

Generally speaking you will want the front fan mounts as air intakes, while any rear and top fan mounts should be air exhausts. Which case do you have exactly? Just tell us your system specs.

I've decided to go for a Fractal design R5 and a full size ATX board instead of sticking to ITX. I've narrowed it down to these two Gigabyte Z97 motherboards on Amazon:

1: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00K9R1H1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1447422161&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=z97+gigabyte&dpPl=1&dpID=515OkEWBJ3L&ref=plSrch


2:http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00K9R1MYW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1447422161&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=z97+gigabyte&dpPl=1&dpID=51jOdgoeIbL&ref=plSrch

What do you guys think? The first one has a massive discount on it, is it worth the extra over the second one though? I'm never going SLI and I don't care about gamerzzz features like killer NIC or dedicated audio hardware junk. I'm definitely OCing my 4670k though.

I need to buy it in the next 5 hours to get in the Prime delivery deadline for tomorrow.

Thanks again guys.

I'd opt for the Gigabyte Gaming 5 model, it might prove better for overclocking. It has 8 digital power phases, while the D3H is more of a budget model and I believe it only has 4 power phases. To put it simply, the more phases, the better for overclocking. Read here for a more in-depth guide. Otherwise a cheaper alternative would be the Asus Z97-E (£79), it has a 6 power phase design and should prove enough for your needs.

Between Asus, MSI, and EVGA is there a no-brainer choice for a GTX 970? Or can you not go wrong either way? I'm looking for one that balances power, temp, and noise the best.

Also why are there so many different configurations for each brand??

As long as you're looking at the open cooler types (partly exposed heatsink and twin or triple fans) it's hard to go wrong. Avoid the boxy blower cooler types (like the one that Frosty Droid regretted buying) because they are often loud. The one benefit of blower type coolers is that they take air from inside the case and force it out the back of the graphics card out of the case, but due to their design are usually not as effective at cooling down the GPU itself and create more noise.

The different configurations are there because manufacturers want to differentiate themselves from others, and for different levels of performance. They'll have the blower type coolers as the cheaper end models, then the higher end models will have faster default clock speeds, larger and more effective coolers, and the flagship top end models might have prebuilt water cooling.

Hi again, I was just wondering if it would be possible to have a quiet + microatx change to the build?
The case is great but looks big.

Yeah, I'm kind of busy as I have to head out, but I'll get back to you once I get to work.
 
Thanks a lot, I'll take a look on the Asus ones. Will set for a midrange card as I really dont want to spend much more money :p

Just get a cheap one (ASUS Xonar DGX ~$40). For mid-high range card, you probably will need to get one of those $600+ wired headphone to pair with.
 

Jharp

Member
Man, the new 950 is tempting. It's definitely the right price, but I'm bummed there's no 4GB option. I'd pay an extra couple bucks for 4GB, but then, I guess that defeats the purpose of the card.
 

Raven77

Member
I'm hoping I can get some help on here. I bought a new PC when Battlefield 3 came out so it's time for an upgrade. The only redeeming quality of my current build is my i5 2500K processor that i've never bothered to overclock, etc. I have not kept up much at all with hardware advancements and updates.

I don't want to put it together myself unless I can save a substantial amount over getting it from ibuypower, etc. Previously when I bought from ibuypower I priced out the parts individually and I would have saved a whopping 28 dollars building it myself, something i'm not super familiar with doing.

SO, I want to get a pre-built PC, Windows 10, and my budget is 1000-1200 USD. It will be mostly used for high end gaming and non-3D graphic design work. Things I DO NOT want are SLI setups and I don't care about spending the extra money on resolutions beyond 1080p unless it fits in the budget. I'm hoping with the holidays their are some great deals out there but again, I have not been keeping up with PC hardware like Skylake, etc. or even graphics cards much.

Any suggestions? Should I put together a build without a processor and put my 2500k in there?
 

Mikeside

Member
Generally speaking you will want the front fan mounts as air intakes, while any rear and top fan mounts should be air exhausts. Which case do you have exactly? Just tell us your system specs.

It's a BitFenix Neos ATX Tower and the CPU cooler is a Corsair Hydro H80i

for the record:


Motherboard - MSI Z97 GAMING 9 AC
Graphics - Gigabyte GTX970 Windforce
Memory - 16GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical
CPU - i5-4690K


Is it generally recommended that I use the fans attached to the watercooler to blow air out? I thought it was best to have it as an intake
 

kennah

Member
I'm hoping I can get some help on here. I bought a new PC when Battlefield 3 came out so it's time for an upgrade. The only redeeming quality of my current build is my i5 2500K processor that i've never bothered to overclock, etc. I have not kept up much at all with hardware advancements and updates.

I don't want to put it together myself unless I can save a substantial amount over getting it from ibuypower, etc. Previously when I bought from ibuypower I priced out the parts individually and I would have saved a whopping 28 dollars building it myself, something i'm not super familiar with doing.

SO, I want to get a pre-built PC, Windows 10, and my budget is 1000-1200 USD. It will be mostly used for high end gaming and non-3D graphic design work. Things I DO NOT want are SLI setups and I don't care about spending the extra money on resolutions beyond 1080p unless it fits in the budget. I'm hoping with the holidays their are some great deals out there but again, I have not been keeping up with PC hardware like Skylake, etc. or even graphics cards much.

Any suggestions? Should I put together a build without a processor and put my 2500k in there?

Post your full specs? You probably only need to upgrade your video card. 2500K is still good for a lot of people.
 

Quotient

Member
So i received 2 promotional codes for Assassins Creed Syndicate from my purchase of a SSD and GTX 970. Is it possible to trade the codes to someone else? I assume the code is all that is needed to retrieve the game.
 

Mikeside

Member
So i received 2 promotional codes for Assassins Creed Syndicate from my purchase of a SSD and GTX 970. Is it possible to trade the codes to someone else? I assume the code is all that is needed to retrieve the game.

I think you can use one of those codes to get Rainbow Six Siege instead if you wanted to
 

Raven77

Member
Post your full specs? You probably only need to upgrade your video card. 2500K is still good for a lot of people.

Sure thing:

PROCESSOR: Intel® Core™ i5-2500K Processor (4x 3.30GHz/6MB L3 Cache)
RAM: 8 GB [2 GB X4] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Kingston HyperX
VIDEO: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti - 1GB - EVGA Superclocked - Core: 900MHz - SLI Mode (Dual Cards)
MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte GA-Z68AP-D3
POWER SUPPLY: 850 Watt -- XFX Core Edition PRO
1 TB HARD DRIVE
 

kennah

Member
Sure thing:

PROCESSOR: Intel® Core™ i5-2500K Processor (4x 3.30GHz/6MB L3 Cache)
RAM: 8 GB [2 GB X4] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Kingston HyperX
VIDEO: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti - 1GB - EVGA Superclocked - Core: 900MHz - SLI Mode (Dual Cards)
MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte GA-Z68AP-D3
POWER SUPPLY: 850 Watt -- XFX Core Edition PRO
1 TB HARD DRIVE

You're fine. Get a 970, overclock that CPU to 4.2 GHz and enjoy another couple years of fine gaming on your system!
 

Quotient

Member
I think you can use one of those codes to get Rainbow Six Siege instead if you wanted to

I have never been a fan of the rainbow six series. My plan is to redeem one of the code for Assassin's Creed Syndicate (most likely the SSD one) and offer the other one (AC: Syndicate or Rainbow six) to anyone who is willing to gift me a game i actually want. Does Neogaf have a trade thread?
 

Raven77

Member
You're fine. Get a 970, overclock that CPU to 4.2 GHz and enjoy another couple years of fine gaming on your system!

Really? Wow, thanks for the info. Should I get a 970 or is something better coming out in the next 6 months that will either blow it away or cause it's price to drop significantly?

Can my current cooling system handle overclocking it? I have Liquid CPU Cooling System [SOCKET-1155] - [Free Upgrade] Standard 120mm Fan
 

RGM79

Member
Man, the new 950 is tempting. It's definitely the right price, but I'm bummed there's no 4GB option. I'd pay an extra couple bucks for 4GB, but then, I guess that defeats the purpose of the card.

Yeah, I'd figure that in more intensive games, you'd have to turn down settings to keep up a good framerate and doing that would lower VRAM usage anyway. There is the R7 370 graphics card that does come in 4GB variants and fits your price range, but it's roughly 20% slower than the GTX 950 at 1080p gaming.

It's a BitFenix Neos ATX Tower and the CPU cooler is a Corsair Hydro H80i, for the record:

Motherboard - MSI Z97 GAMING 9 AC
Graphics - Gigabyte GTX970 Windforce
Memory - 16GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical
CPU - i5-4690K

Is it generally recommended that I use the fans attached to the watercooler to blow air out? I thought it was best to have it as an intake
It's fine to use the H80i as air exhaust for your case. While it does mean your CPU will be cooled with the warmer air from inside your case instead of the cooler air from outside, it doesn't mean your CPU will overheat. And you're probably not doing some extremely intensive overclocking that requires that your CPU get the coolest air possible, right?

Now, the thing about airflow in cases is that you want warm air to escape. Warm air rises. Unfortunately, the Bitfenix Neos is somewhat limited when it comes to cooling. It's just those three fan mounts, and it has no vents at the top that would help with letting warm air rise out of the case. The Neos has two fans located in the front, but they are mounted low. The only other fan mount is mounted high. See the issue? The air inside the case is getting warm because the warm air rises to the top of the case. The fans that you have set up to remove air are drawing from the lower half of the case, though.

This is your current setup. The arrows indicate airflow, blue for cool air and red for warm air. The boxes are for showing the general temperature of the air inside your case. Cool air is drawn into your case via the H80i, and it is warmed up a bit by the CPU. The warm air stays in the upper region of your case, while the cooler air inside your case is around the bottom of your case. The front two fans are drawing more cooler air out of your case than warm air. Sure, some warm air escapes a bit from the top of the two frontal fans, but not a lot.

This is a better setup for your airflow. The two front fans should be air intakes. As the cool air enters your case, it'll pass by the graphics card, helping cool it down. As the air heats up from the graphics card, it'll rise to the top of the case, and be exhausted out of the case by the H80i CPU cooler.

I'm hoping I can get some help on here. I bought a new PC when Battlefield 3 came out so it's time for an upgrade. The only redeeming quality of my current build is my i5 2500K processor that i've never bothered to overclock, etc. I have not kept up much at all with hardware advancements and updates.

I don't want to put it together myself unless I can save a substantial amount over getting it from ibuypower, etc. Previously when I bought from ibuypower I priced out the parts individually and I would have saved a whopping 28 dollars building it myself, something i'm not super familiar with doing.

SO, I want to get a pre-built PC, Windows 10, and my budget is 1000-1200 USD. It will be mostly used for high end gaming and non-3D graphic design work. Things I DO NOT want are SLI setups and I don't care about spending the extra money on resolutions beyond 1080p unless it fits in the budget. I'm hoping with the holidays their are some great deals out there but again, I have not been keeping up with PC hardware like Skylake, etc. or even graphics cards much.

Any suggestions? Should I put together a build without a processor and put my 2500k in there?

Sure thing:

PROCESSOR: Intel® Core™ i5-2500K Processor (4x 3.30GHz/6MB L3 Cache)
RAM: 8 GB [2 GB X4] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Kingston HyperX
VIDEO: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti - 1GB - EVGA Superclocked - Core: 900MHz - SLI Mode (Dual Cards)
MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte GA-Z68AP-D3
POWER SUPPLY: 850 Watt -- XFX Core Edition PRO
1 TB HARD DRIVE

Unfortunately, we tend to recommend custom PCs whenever possible in this thread. That doesn't mean we won't help you and answer your questions, though. You may have been approaching it from the wrong direction. If you choose the same parts as the iBuyPower's prebuilt PC, of course you'll come to a similar price conclusion. But if you were to consider looking for different parts with the same budget, then it might be a better deal.

Your 2500K uses an older motherboard chipset and socket that has been discontinued, so unless you also reuse your motherboard, you can't just put your i5 2500K in a new PC. While it still is quite a good processor that when overclocked is a decent match for recent processors, current generation motherboards don't work with the 2500K.

Have you been looking at any prebuilt PCs from iBuyPower recently? If you can link to one that you're interested in, I don't mind doing a parts cost/performance analysis. And as Kennah says, you could do just fine with a graphics card upgrade, the rest of your PC is still very good for the next few years. If you want, you could add another 8GB of RAM for 16GB total, and that 850 watt power supply is a high quality model that is more than capable of powering any upgrades you might do.
 
Okay so I got my SSD up and running, moved my pagefile and the Windows search index to a mechanical drive, enabled TRIM and disabled defragmentation and everything is fast and snappy with nearly 500mb/s read/write on this SanDisk Ultra II 120gb :D

But I wonder, is hibernating still really that detrimental to 2015-made SSDs? I understand they have limited writes and such but would one daily hibernation with a 4gb hiberfil.sys cause any issues on the long run?

I found this on another forum:

Been using a 128GB Samsung 830 as my boot drive for 4 years. Hibernated at least once a day, sometimes several. End result? ~4TB of writes according to SMART. Which translates to ~32 P/E cycles on the NAND. I think the Samsung 27nm NAND it uses is rated for 3000 or 5000 P/E cycles. In short, its not something you need to worry about any more.

Btw, my Intel X25-m 80GB in my laptop (currently standing in for an HTPC) has seen 7,9TB of host writes over the last five years. It's been hibernated at least once a day for the past three years, and quite a bit before that. As it's a tiny drive I've never stored much media or other stuff on it, but it's been the OS drive and seen at least three OS reinstalls, with the accompanying program installs/uninstalls, updates, windows updates and all that jazz. That's almost 99 P/E cycles. The Intel SSD Toolbox still rates it as in near perfect health (there might be one grey line of pixels in the green health bar, I really can't tell) and at >95% "Drive Life Remaining." Even if modern (non-v-nand) flash tech has lower endurance, I'm not exactly worried about wearing out SSDs.

So I wonder if it's really still an issue nowadays? I ask because, while my system nearly boots instantly now, I've been hibernating ever since Windows Vista was released and it's now so ingrained in my workflow that having to close all programs at the end of the day and reopening them at the next feels weird.

I'm not a morning person at all and when I boot my PCs in the morning before my university work it's actually nice to have my PC back where I left off the other day because sometimes I just forget what I was doing the day before after I'm back home :p
 

Raven77

Member
This is what I put together at ibuypower: Total PRICE roughly $1250 USD shipped

Case 1 x NZXT Source 210 Mid Tower Case - Red
Processor 1 x Intel® Core™ i5-6600 Processor (4x 3.30GHz/6MB L3 Cache) - Free Upgrade to Intel i5-6600K
Processor Cooling 1 x Asetek 510LC 120mm Liquid CPU Cooler [SOCKET-1150] - Standard 120mm Fan
Memory 1 x 16 GB [8 GB X2] DDR4-2800 Memory Module - ADATA XPG Z1
Video Card 1 x NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 - 4GB - ASUS TURBO - Single card
Free Stuff 1 x [FREE Game Download] - Intel Gaming Bundle: Just Cause 3, CSGO, and World of Warships - free w/ Intel Processors
Free Stuff 1 x [FREE Game Download] - Bullets or Blades Bundle (Free Rainbow Six Siege or Assassin's Creed Syndicate) - w/ purchase of GTX 960 or above graphics cards
Motherboard 1 x ASUS Z170-K -- - *Free Upgrade to ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming -- 3x PCIe x16, 2x USB 3.1, 4x USB 3.0, 1x M.2, DDR4 Memory
Power Supply 1 x 600 Watt - Standard - *Free Upgrade to 700W Standard
Primary Hard Drive - 2TB 7200 RPM 6gb cache
Secondary Hard Drive 1 x 64 GB ADATA SP900 SSD - Single Drive *Free Upgrade to 128GB SanDisk Z400S SSD*
Optical Drive 1 x LG 14x Blu-ray Re-Writer, DVD±R/±RW Burner Combo Drive
Operating System 1 x Windows 10 Home + Office 365 Trial [Free 30-Day !!!] - (64-bit) *Newest Microsoft Windows*
 

RGM79

Member
This is what I put together at ibuypower: Total PRICE roughly $1250 USD shipped

Case 1 x NZXT Source 210 Mid Tower Case - Red
Processor 1 x Intel® Core™ i5-6600 Processor (4x 3.30GHz/6MB L3 Cache) - Free Upgrade to Intel i5-6600K
Processor Cooling 1 x Asetek 510LC 120mm Liquid CPU Cooler [SOCKET-1150] - Standard 120mm Fan
Memory 1 x 16 GB [8 GB X2] DDR4-2800 Memory Module - ADATA XPG Z1
Video Card 1 x NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 - 4GB - ASUS TURBO - Single card
Free Stuff 1 x [FREE Game Download] - Intel Gaming Bundle: Just Cause 3, CSGO, and World of Warships - free w/ Intel Processors
Free Stuff 1 x [FREE Game Download] - Bullets or Blades Bundle (Free Rainbow Six Siege or Assassin's Creed Syndicate) - w/ purchase of GTX 960 or above graphics cards
Motherboard 1 x ASUS Z170-K -- - *Free Upgrade to ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming -- 3x PCIe x16, 2x USB 3.1, 4x USB 3.0, 1x M.2, DDR4 Memory
Power Supply 1 x 600 Watt - Standard - *Free Upgrade to 700W Standard
Primary Hard Drive - 2TB 7200 RPM 6gb cache
Secondary Hard Drive 1 x 64 GB ADATA SP900 SSD - Single Drive *Free Upgrade to 128GB SanDisk Z400S SSD*
Optical Drive 1 x LG 14x Blu-ray Re-Writer, DVD±R/±RW Burner Combo Drive
Operating System 1 x Windows 10 Home + Office 365 Trial [Free 30-Day !!!] - (64-bit) *Newest Microsoft Windows*

Alright, here's my analysis. If you were to pick the closest possible parts and build them yourself, it'd cost about $70 cheaper. I picked the same part wherever possible, and substituted in the cheapest non-crap part for the ones that weren't available or I didn't know the model of (CPU cooler, PSU, hard drive, SSD, blu ray drive).

You could argue that the $70 saved is worth the cost of shipping and warranty and customer support. That's up to you if it's worth it. However, there's a number of issues with the parts in that iBuyPower PC.
  • For one, the Asetek water 510LC cooler doesn't seem to be that good. It's a budget model and I can only find one review of it that complains about a loud pump and possibly defective ticking noise.
  • The Asus GTX 970 Turbo has a blower style cooler. While it looks nice, blower style coolers can get fairly loud. I wasn't able to find any professional reviews for that exact model either, but this review for a GTX 960 with the same Turbo cooler design states that auto fan mode is ok for noise but results in temperatures up to 77 degrees. If you want the graphics card to run cooler and/or overclock it by cranking up the fan speed, it starts getting loud like a "hair dryer", reviewer's own words. Keep in mind that the GTX 970 (~180 watts thermal) will already run warmer than the GTX 960 (~130 watts thermal), so I'm expecting the GTX 970 Turbo to run up to ~85 degrees or get louder. If you look at Newegg user reviews for the Asus GTX 970 Turbo, a common con listed among both positive and negative reviews is that it gets loud.
  • The Asus Z170-Pro Gaming seems to be a problematic motherboard with an average of 3/5 stars on Newegg and numerous reports of issues with RAM. I should know, I own that motherboard myself and I sent it off to Asus about 2 weeks ago for exchange. I haven't gotten it back yet but apparently it's en route.
  • They don't even list what brand or model of power supply you're getting. That's kinda worrying, given that it powers everything in your PC and a bad unit could fail or even damage other parts in your PC. It might not be a bad unit.. but why hide what brand and model it is?

Anyway, let's move on. Like I said earlier, the approach to custom PC part hunting where you choose the exact same parts as the prebuilt PC is flawed. If you were to order $1250 worth of parts and build it yourself, you could get parts that are assured to be better quality and won't be as noisy, like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($253.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Universal 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($314.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($97.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($47.00 @ Adorama)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($90.75 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1173.46
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-13 13:41 EST-0500

Compared to the iBuyPower parts list, this has a better and quieter CPU cooler, faster and quieter graphics card that can even be overclocked without fear of overheating, faster RAM, higher quality and quieter case, and a stronger and higher quality PSU for about $1170.

Better parts don't have to cost more, as you can see. If you have no plans to overclock, you could save another $50~100 off the cost of that PC by going with an i5 6500 and a cheaper motherboard, but around here it's usually considered better value to get the overclocking version as that CPU can have a longer useful life by a few years before it's considered obsolete and outdated.
 

Grokbu

Member
Hey all.

I'm considering getting a build with a 6700k CPU and am currently considering which motherboard to choose.

I was considering the Asus Z170-A but then read about the Z170 Pro Gaming. My question is, are the ESD guards on the Z170 Pro motherboard something that's important? I'm pretty newbish to this, but I started wondering if it's worth considering the Z170 Pro motherboard just because of the ESD guards?

Edit:
[*]The Asus Z170-Pro Gaming seems to be a problematic motherboard with an average of 3/5 stars on Newegg and numerous reports of issues with RAM. I should know, I own that motherboard myself and I sent it off to Asus about 2 weeks ago for exchange. Haven't gotten it back yet.
Oh, just saw this. May I ask what motherboard you have now? I was thinking of getting a Z170-A, but started considering the Z170 Pro. Sorry if I'm overloading you with questions.
 
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