arts&crafts
Member
Hey guys so I Just built my computer and i booted it up to windows disk it is now installing but there are orange lights on on my motherboard. Does this mean anything? I can see them as my case is currently open.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
I think I'm going to need to format my SSD/hard drive and reinstall Windows 10 to get rid of my DPC latency problems. I don't know what else to do.
My only real question is, how do I save my Witcher 3 save? I've put over 100 hours into it so I need to save it otherwise I'll never complete this game. And if anyone could give me a quick run down of how to do this process/can point me towards a guide, I'd really appreciate it
My only real question is, how do I save my Witcher 3 save? I've put over 100 hours into it so I need to save it otherwise I'll never complete this game. And if anyone could give me a quick run down of how to do this process/can point me towards a guide, I'd really appreciate it
SmartWaffles
Member
Orange light is typically the ethernet indicator, which means you have a ethernet wire plugged in so nothing to worry about.
I think I'm going to need to format my SSD/hard drive and reinstall Windows 10 to get rid of my DPC latency problems. I don't know what else to do.
My only real question is, how do I save my Witcher 3 save? I've put over 100 hours into it so I need to save it otherwise I'll never complete this game. And if anyone could give me a quick run down of how to do this process/can point me towards a guide, I'd really appreciate it
Move your Documents folder elsewhere by right clicking the Documents folder - properties - location, this way you keep all your save files and personal files when you format your system drive, just move the new document folder to this one after you done reinstalling. Also if you are playing the Steam version your saves are stored in the cloud.
arts&crafts
Member
I have no ethernet pluged in, I do have a wireless network adapter that is working. Installed windows and it works fine, just installing STEAM now.
pureIsometric
Banned
Changes
1 x Toshiba DT01ACA 2TB, SATA 6Gb/s (DT01ACA200)
1 x Samsung SSD 850 Evo 500GB, SATA (MZ-75E500B)
1 x Intel Core i7-5820K, 6x 3.30GHz, boxed without cooler (BX80648I75820K)
1 x Patriot Viper 4 Series DIMM kit 16GB, DDR4-2666, CL15-15-15-35 (PV416G266C5QK)
1 x Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti Windforce 3X, 6GB GDDR5, 2x DVI, HDMI, 3x DisplayPort (GV-N98TWF3OC-6GD)
from
1 x MSI X99A SLI Plus (7885-023R)
to
1 x ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer/3.1 (90-MXGXT0-A0UAYZ)
from
2 x Noctua NH-D15
to
2 x Cooler Master Nepton 240M (RL-N24M-24PK-R1)
from
1 x Fractal Design Define S, noise-insulated (FD-CA-DEF-S-BK)
to
1 x Fractal Design Define mini, noise-insulated (FD-CA-DEF-mini-BL)
1 x XFX XTR Series 650W ATX 2.31 (P1-650B-BEFX)
Good change to achieve small form factory and low noise levels?
1 x Toshiba DT01ACA 2TB, SATA 6Gb/s (DT01ACA200)
1 x Samsung SSD 850 Evo 500GB, SATA (MZ-75E500B)
1 x Intel Core i7-5820K, 6x 3.30GHz, boxed without cooler (BX80648I75820K)
1 x Patriot Viper 4 Series DIMM kit 16GB, DDR4-2666, CL15-15-15-35 (PV416G266C5QK)
1 x Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti Windforce 3X, 6GB GDDR5, 2x DVI, HDMI, 3x DisplayPort (GV-N98TWF3OC-6GD)
from
1 x MSI X99A SLI Plus (7885-023R)
to
1 x ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer/3.1 (90-MXGXT0-A0UAYZ)
from
2 x Noctua NH-D15
to
2 x Cooler Master Nepton 240M (RL-N24M-24PK-R1)
from
1 x Fractal Design Define S, noise-insulated (FD-CA-DEF-S-BK)
to
1 x Fractal Design Define mini, noise-insulated (FD-CA-DEF-mini-BL)
1 x XFX XTR Series 650W ATX 2.31 (P1-650B-BEFX)
Good change to achieve small form factory and low noise levels?
hockeypuck
Member
So I did something stupid and decided to update my BIOS for my Asus Z170-A motherboard (was hoping for better overclockability). I used the USB method, the UEFI said it updated successfully, now I just get an unlit monitor with the fans running. No splash screen. I already tried clearing the CMOS, it gets me back to the UEFI, but after pressing F5 to reset to stock settings, I always get an unlit monitor after exiting the UEFI. Did I brick my motherboard?
If the machine has booted there is nothing to worry about.
You can't brick this one really since it has bios flashback. But here what I would try
Reset cmos by pulling the battery out and shorting the contacts, take note which way the battery is.
Unplug the machine for a bit from the wall and try again.
If that fails do the bios flashback method again.
Also force it to use dedicated pcie GPU not auto.
mcz117chief
Member
Guys, a question.
This pc I have is 4 years old now and I am looking into some parts so I can upgrade it. I have little trouble finding the right components except one, processor. So my current one is i3-2130 (3.40 ghz) and I want something that will last me another 4 years at least, something powerful enough to enable me to play games on at least high for the next 4 years. But I am having trouble figuring out which processor is strong enough. I am looking at the intel site and I see processors which are 3.20, 3.40, 3.50, 4.00 ghz which seems like a minimal increase in processing power and the 4.00 ghz are pretty pricey. How much more powerful is, for example, i5-6600k compared to my old i3-2130, i5-6600k is "only" 0.10 ghz faster so I am at a loss here.
This pc I have is 4 years old now and I am looking into some parts so I can upgrade it. I have little trouble finding the right components except one, processor. So my current one is i3-2130 (3.40 ghz) and I want something that will last me another 4 years at least, something powerful enough to enable me to play games on at least high for the next 4 years. But I am having trouble figuring out which processor is strong enough. I am looking at the intel site and I see processors which are 3.20, 3.40, 3.50, 4.00 ghz which seems like a minimal increase in processing power and the 4.00 ghz are pretty pricey. How much more powerful is, for example, i5-6600k compared to my old i3-2130, i5-6600k is "only" 0.10 ghz faster so I am at a loss here.
So i was gonna switch out my gpu and throw in some more RAM, I have a 650 watt PSU, any reason i should be concerned throwing in a 970 (going from an amd 6950 2 gb) and 16 gb RAM. Is there a good way to get a wattage calculator? I'd think i'd be fine but figured I'd do a sanity check here.
CPU - i2500k
gpu - GTX 970 https://jet.com/product/EVGA-GeForc...t-PCI-30-x16/854789febb464b5890e96206ea0e8135
RAM -16 gb
1 TB hd
CPU - i2500k
gpu - GTX 970 https://jet.com/product/EVGA-GeForc...t-PCI-30-x16/854789febb464b5890e96206ea0e8135
RAM -16 gb
1 TB hd
opticalmace
Member
Totally fine. You have hundreds of watts of headroom.
So i just realized that I don't have any PC speakers. Any suggestions?
I am looking at a 2.0 setup (no need for a dedicated sub).
I found the Definitive Technology Incline Desktop system - Does anyone have any experience with them? My home theater speakers are Definitive Technology which i like a lot.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5CKH6O/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I am looking at a 2.0 setup (no need for a dedicated sub).
I found the Definitive Technology Incline Desktop system - Does anyone have any experience with them? My home theater speakers are Definitive Technology which i like a lot.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5CKH6O/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Dutch Microwave
Member
I'm planning to buy a 970 next week,I'm guessing this is a question that gets asked a lot here but which do version do you guys think has the best chance to not crap out on me as soon as warranty expires? I saw the last couple of pages but there were 3 different people choosing 3 different cards (GB,EVGA and MSI)
I personally chose MSI based on most of the random reviews I looked up on google,but this thread didnt make me more confident
Especially not right the day after one of my gigabyte 560 Ti's fans just died
I personally chose MSI based on most of the random reviews I looked up on google,but this thread didnt make me more confident
Especially not right the day after one of my gigabyte 560 Ti's fans just died
If the i7 920 is not cutting it for any reason, consider overclocking it. You'll want to have a decent CPU cooler, though.
Well, i3 processors are only dual core, and i5 processors are quad core. It's quite a strong leap going from a dual to quad core, even if they are close in clock frequency. Clock frequency isn't everything either, especially when trying to compare processors of different designs.
The bigger issue here is that your i3 processor and motherboard are of an older incompatible generation compared to the latest processors. You need to find a processor that is compatible with your motherboard socket. You are limited to Intel i3/i5/i7 processors in the 2xxx or 3xxx generation.
Do you mind posting your system specs so we know what we're working with here? Also, what country are you in and what is your budget for PC upgrades?
A GTX 970 typically consumes less than 200 watts. Your 650 watt PSU should be more than enough, even if you were to do some overclocking. Here's a wattage calculator that I trust.
awesomebro
Member
So I put together my pc parts and tested them. I put in the video card, turn on the system, no display. All fans are working: cpu,case fans,gpu fans but no display. Plugging the cable into the motherboard or gpu yields no display. Now when I disconnect the gpu, it boots up fine. What is going on?
Here are my specs
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/CN3Zpg
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/CN3Zpg/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($172.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($77.75 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($75.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.44 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card ($289.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($55.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Cooler Master R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan ($4.89 @ OutletPC)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($76.30 @ Amazon)
Total: $966.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-14 14:47 EST-0500
Here are my specs
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/CN3Zpg
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/CN3Zpg/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($172.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($77.75 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($75.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.44 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card ($289.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($55.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Cooler Master R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan ($4.89 @ OutletPC)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($76.30 @ Amazon)
Total: $966.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-14 14:47 EST-0500
opticalmace
Member
Did you plug in the PCIe power cables from the PSU to the video card? Dunno if your card needs one or two.
mcz117chief
Member
I have sent you a pm with my dxdiag
Leon Belmont
Member
Guys I need a little advice here, I hope you can help me...
I just want to change my graphics card, I have a GTS 450 1 Gb and my CPU it's a Core 2 Quad Q8300 2.5 Ghz, 8 Gb RAM DDR2.
I'm thinkg about getting a GTX 750 ti 2 Gb or a GTX 960 4 Gb what would it be the perfect graphics card for this rig, what card do you advice me to buy it?
(I can't built a new PC since I don't have money to do it)
Thanks in advance
I just want to change my graphics card, I have a GTS 450 1 Gb and my CPU it's a Core 2 Quad Q8300 2.5 Ghz, 8 Gb RAM DDR2.
I'm thinkg about getting a GTX 750 ti 2 Gb or a GTX 960 4 Gb what would it be the perfect graphics card for this rig, what card do you advice me to buy it?
(I can't built a new PC since I don't have money to do it)
Thanks in advance
Alright, I have a alright idea of what your PC is like. Still, it doesn't say anything about the motherboard which is important for knowing what sort of upgrades it'll support and what it's capable of. Do you know the name or model? If not, use a program like Speccy to find out. You can show us a screenshot or post a text file from Speccy.
You'll probably have to look for a used processor to find one that is compatible.
Depends on what sort of games you want to play and what graphics quality setting you want to be able to play at. Your CPU is pretty old and will be a bottleneck in some situations, less in others. How well it'll perform will depend on the game.
What country are you in and what's your budget for upgrades?
mcz117chief
Member
Got it, mate. It is a ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. P8H61 EVO (LGA1155)
awesomebro
Member
Yeah I plugged it in. It needs two cables and I plugged both in. The fans on the card start running but no display.
Leon Belmont
Member
Well, I use 1920 x 1080 and normal settings for the most of the games that I play, games like Batman AA, AC, AO, Madmax, Transformers War for Cybertron... and the GTS 450 keeps up very well, but I want to do the last upgrade to this rig and start saving money in order to buy a new PC and use the older PC (once I get the new one) to play older games... I know that my current PC, my CPU won't run games like Batman Arkham Knight or The Witcher 3 at max settings but at least I want to play them...
I live in México and the price for some graphics cards are too expensive, but I want to spend around $3000 or $4000 pesos mexicanos that's like ($180 USD and $250 USD)...
If I want to build a new Super PC to run newest games I need to spend like $2500 USD, it's like $30,000 pesos mexicanos, that's a lot of money... :/
So what's the best card for my CPU and run games at 1080 with normal settings?
opticalmace
Member
Are you using HDMI? Try using displayport instead. Or if there are multiple ports on it, make sure you are using the right one. The vid card manual will tell you which one is the primariy/default port (or just try them all).
awesomebro
Member
I was using hdmi. I'll try displayport but the thing is the hdmi displays when I connect it to the output on the motherboard (it only displays when the video card is not connected).
Try reseating the graphics card. I've had odd scenarios where I've installed a new graphics card that seemed to receive power and fans would spin, but it wasn't detected. Turns out I had to push it a bit tighter into the PCI-E slot than I thought it was. Or even try a different PCI-E slot.
What retailers can you look at to buy graphics cards? Outside of US, not all graphics cards cost the same as they do in the US, and depending on price, supply, and availability, some older cards are better choices than newer ones. Yeah, you'll probably want a GTX 750 Ti / R7 260 graphics card or better.
I think I've spoken to other Mexican neogaf members and they mentioned that ordering from Amazon.com was an option for them, I have no idea if that works for you.
Late response but thank you .
decided to go with the Corsair K70 .
Ilove it .
(not my picture )
The only downside is that since there is nothing to dampen the key presses it sounds like i am typing on a old typewritter aka it's loud .
But that is not really a problem for me .
The Red Wizard
Member
What do you guys think about the PC below? I'm aiming to build something for my friend's living room. The aim is to get something that can hit 60FPS in PC games and run Dolphin without slowdown, or at least as well as possible without overclocking. I haven't added a GPU yet as I might sell him my 970 and upgrade to something better but this depends on whether or not the Vive appears on this side of Christmas.
You're in the UK? I recommend using skinflint.co.uk, they seem to have a much more comprehensive database for parts and prices than PCPartPicker does. Wouldn't hurt to use both to find the cheapest prices, though.
With Skylake, you should opt for DDR4 and not DDR3. Skylake does not officially support DDR3, it technically only supports DDR3L which is the low voltage version. Also, DDR3 may or may not prove to be a bottleneck for Skylake. It's hard to say, but it's safer and better to spend a bit more on getting DDR4 instead.
There's better choices for hard drives than WD Green. WD Green drives have a head parking "feature" that seems to cause extra wear and tear over time in the name of saving electricity. As you can see here, there are faster 3TB 7200RPM hard drives available at a lower price than the WD Green model you were looking at.
Other than that the rest of the parts are alright. If he's definitely not overclocking, then you don't really even need that Noctua cooler unless he's concerned about fan noise, and there may be cheaper alternatives than Noctua.
Leon Belmont
Member
Ok, I'm going to check Amazon and see if it's cheaper (graphics card + shipping), so the option for my CPU it's a GTX 750 ti, a GTX 960 won't work fine since my motherboard and cpu are older?
Thanks
Any graphics card will work.
Question about home server OS, sorry if slightly off topic.
I want to build a home server and am wondering which Windows version to go with. I have access to all Windows OS for free (thank you MS BizSpark), but have never used Windows Server.
I will mainly use it for computer/media backups and possibly hosting a game server. Will also probably use it as a web server just for local network testing.
I believe I could do all of this with Windows 10, so I'm wondering if I should spend the time to learn Windows Server features. What would I be missing by not using Windows Server?
I want to build a home server and am wondering which Windows version to go with. I have access to all Windows OS for free (thank you MS BizSpark), but have never used Windows Server.
I will mainly use it for computer/media backups and possibly hosting a game server. Will also probably use it as a web server just for local network testing.
I believe I could do all of this with Windows 10, so I'm wondering if I should spend the time to learn Windows Server features. What would I be missing by not using Windows Server?
Hey guys, my bro's computer is a
E8500
4gb Ram
260gt (1gb?)
Needless to say its very old. He says it's still fine for him on Counter Strike (but I feel a bit bad cause I'm rocking a i5-4690k and GTX970) so I want to get him something.
Can I get a GTX 960 or maybe a AMD 370 or 380 series cards - will it work with that old motherboard and CPU? Or will that CPU be holding him back significantly that it's not worth upgrading?
If I need to get a new computer, I'd rather get him one of those mid tier ones in the OP and in order to do that I'd probably wait it out until I have more money. Right now I'm only looking to spend around AU$200-$250 on a graphics card. (Damn that Aussie dollar!).
He only plays CS:GO btw.
E8500
4gb Ram
260gt (1gb?)
Needless to say its very old. He says it's still fine for him on Counter Strike (but I feel a bit bad cause I'm rocking a i5-4690k and GTX970) so I want to get him something.
Can I get a GTX 960 or maybe a AMD 370 or 380 series cards - will it work with that old motherboard and CPU? Or will that CPU be holding him back significantly that it's not worth upgrading?
If I need to get a new computer, I'd rather get him one of those mid tier ones in the OP and in order to do that I'd probably wait it out until I have more money. Right now I'm only looking to spend around AU$200-$250 on a graphics card. (Damn that Aussie dollar!).
He only plays CS:GO btw.
Windows Server is more for businesses and companies. As a home user, Windows 10 should offer all that you really need for light/personal server duties. Somehow I can't seem to find a product page for Server 2016, so look at the wikipedia page's listings and see if any of those features interests you.
Any desktop graphics card made in the last ten years is compatible with any desktop PC, they all use PCI-E slots. We need to know what power supply and case he has so we can make sure to recommend you a graphics card that physically fits and can be powered properly, though. A GTX 960 or R7 370 would be a fairly safe bet.
It's almost sure that the E8500 is a bottleneck, but if all he cares about is CSGO, then it's not that bad. He probably can't make use of the full potential of the graphics card he'll be upgrading to, though. That's not that much of an issue, if you were to build him a new PC, you could just bring over the new graphics card to the new build.
Any idea how well his PC runs CSGO? Any stuttering or framerate drops? What resolution and settings does he play at? These aren't as important to know, but if it's smooth enough for now, perhaps you could save the $250 AUD toward getting him a new PC more quickly. CSGO doesn't have very strong requirements as we know can already run on his ancient PC, so maybe he could wait a bit longer if he doesn't mind. If this GPU hierarchy chart is correct, then his GTX 260 isn't that far off from current generation Intel integrated graphics, you could get him a new PC and use the integrated graphics until you can afford a graphics card.
Skyfireblaze
Member
Aslong as you keep your new mobo running in AHCI mode (if you current one is also already set to AHCI) Windows should have no real problems. The first boot will only display at 800x600 resolution, then Windows will have to reinstall a bunch of drivers and reboot 2-3 times and then you should be good to go. Afterwards just install the drivers for your new mobo and all should be fine.
Of course it's always said that Windows should be reinstalled after major hardware changes but I found this was more true for Windows 95 till Vista, I personally swapped from AMD to Intel even and my Windows 7 back then had no real problems.
Its a Antec 500W and he's got a full tower case of some sort.
He says he runs GS:GO on 1680x1050, settings high except shadows low and doesn't really get any frame drops.
Like you say it's prob a good idea to put that money into the new PC. Initial plan was that I'd give him my GTX970 when I get a pascal card next year which I may just stick to.
Thanks RGM79.
Leon Belmont
Member
Thank you for your advice my friend... I'll check the GTX 960 4 Gb and see how it works with my CPU, since I want to upgrade my PC sometime in the near future, I can use the GTX 960 in the new PC...
I really really appreciate your info
Everything's going almost swimmingly with my new build, save for one very aggravating issue with my BIOS/UEFI. Hoping someone here will know what to do.
After installing Windows 10, restarting my PC has become an exercise in repetition. After shut down, when I boot my computer back up, more times than not (it's literally random) my computer will not boot into the BIOS/UEFI. My PC is very much on. The light and fans on my graphics card are on, the lights on my motherboard (more on that in a moment) are on, and all my case fans are spinning up. But nothing else.
Hitting my power/reset button does nothing, so I'm forced to hold down on the power button until my entire system shuts off. At this point, hitting the power button again does nothing. Nothing turns on whatsoever, not even a fan. I'm forced to turn off my PSU and turn it back on. At this point, turning my PC back on will result in it POSTing properly. Shutting it down again, either from the BIOS or from Windows will take you back to where we started: forced to turn off the PSU and back on.
Now, sometimes, not almost, but sometimes, when it tries to turn on, the lights and fans will come on, including the light on my motherboard. I disabled this in my BIOS' settings. When it boots properly, this light is off. But I know my computer won't boot into the BIOS because the motherboard light turns on.
I went ahead and braved updating my BIOS, hoping that would fix it, and nothing. I was on revision F3 of my BIOS/UEFI and am now running F5.
This feels like a power issue, except that I used this same PSU in my old build not less than three days ago with zero issues. I've got almost 400W of overhead according to PC Part Picker as well, and once I'm in the Windows environment I have zero issues with any of my components. Everything checks out in the BIOS too.
So what's going on?
Here are my specs:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Team Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition w/ Window ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 850W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card
Case Fan: Fractal Design GP14-BK 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan
Monitor: Acer XB240H ABPR 144Hz 24.0" Monitor
EDIT: Solved
After installing Windows 10, restarting my PC has become an exercise in repetition. After shut down, when I boot my computer back up, more times than not (it's literally random) my computer will not boot into the BIOS/UEFI. My PC is very much on. The light and fans on my graphics card are on, the lights on my motherboard (more on that in a moment) are on, and all my case fans are spinning up. But nothing else.
Hitting my power/reset button does nothing, so I'm forced to hold down on the power button until my entire system shuts off. At this point, hitting the power button again does nothing. Nothing turns on whatsoever, not even a fan. I'm forced to turn off my PSU and turn it back on. At this point, turning my PC back on will result in it POSTing properly. Shutting it down again, either from the BIOS or from Windows will take you back to where we started: forced to turn off the PSU and back on.
Now, sometimes, not almost, but sometimes, when it tries to turn on, the lights and fans will come on, including the light on my motherboard. I disabled this in my BIOS' settings. When it boots properly, this light is off. But I know my computer won't boot into the BIOS because the motherboard light turns on.
I went ahead and braved updating my BIOS, hoping that would fix it, and nothing. I was on revision F3 of my BIOS/UEFI and am now running F5.
This feels like a power issue, except that I used this same PSU in my old build not less than three days ago with zero issues. I've got almost 400W of overhead according to PC Part Picker as well, and once I'm in the Windows environment I have zero issues with any of my components. Everything checks out in the BIOS too.
So what's going on?
Here are my specs:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Team Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition w/ Window ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 850W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card
Case Fan: Fractal Design GP14-BK 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan
Monitor: Acer XB240H ABPR 144Hz 24.0" Monitor
EDIT: Solved
opticalmace
Member
I would try removing/unplugging the stuff you don't need (in case it's some random failing hardware). Try single sticks of ram in different slots. Try a different PSU if you have one (or if not, bring it to a local computer shop for them to test it for you).
Hard to say, though maybe someone else has some other ideas.
Managed to capture a video of what happens when it doesn't boot. Major apologies for the vertical video; I didn't even think about it until after I had uploaded it:
https://youtu.be/ApkWYW5PWnA
https://youtu.be/ApkWYW5PWnA
EDIT: Solved
opticalmace
Member
By the way, I forgot to ask in the above if you are overclocking or not (I assume not). Reset that if you are, anyway.
I'm running my RAM at its rated speed of 3000MHz instead of the default speed, and my CPU has Turbo Boost enabled, but that's it. But this was still going on before I enabled my RAM to run at its rated speed in the BIOS.
EDIT: Solved
Well it turned out one of my sticks of RAM was bad. Consistently booting up and restarting ever since removing it. Thank you so much; I appreciate the help! I'm a little ashamed I hadn't tried that before coming in here though, haha.
opticalmace
Member
No worries. I'm glad you got it figured out!
Thanks for the help, turns out it was the bios. I was on version 1.08 and the latest version was 5.something. Everything is working as it should now.
Good to know you got it fixed.
drotahorror
Member
Is there a computer help topic somewhere on gaf? I have a hopefully minor problem that is majorly annoying to me.
I'll keep it short and just ask here real quick.
I download at full speed on steam/ps4/ whatever (2.4MB max (20Mb or so)) but can't stream any videos on any sites. Twitch, Youtube, Amazon Prime Instant Video, etc. Even on lowest settings it buffers. I can then start up a random download and watch it sit at my max speed downloading no problem. This started maybe 5 days ago.
This happens on all devices in the household (xb1/ps4/tablet/pc etc).
Leads me to believe my ISP is throttling me or my router is jacked up. I've updated the firmware of the router and it reset my settings but still had the issue.
Any help or where to turn for help would be appreciated.
I'll keep it short and just ask here real quick.
I download at full speed on steam/ps4/ whatever (2.4MB max (20Mb or so)) but can't stream any videos on any sites. Twitch, Youtube, Amazon Prime Instant Video, etc. Even on lowest settings it buffers. I can then start up a random download and watch it sit at my max speed downloading no problem. This started maybe 5 days ago.
This happens on all devices in the household (xb1/ps4/tablet/pc etc).
Leads me to believe my ISP is throttling me or my router is jacked up. I've updated the firmware of the router and it reset my settings but still had the issue.
Any help or where to turn for help would be appreciated.
The Red Wizard
Member
Thank you for the reply. I am indeed in the UK so I'll use Skinflint to check prices of my parts and add DDR4 RAM, a new motherboard and a better hard drive. The CPU fan is to keep it quiet as it's going to be in the living room so sometimes it'll be used for TV shows and movies so I want to try to keep the noise as low as possible.
7DollarHagane
Banned
I currently have a i7-2700k and a gtx670 2gb.
I've been thinking about a gpu upgrade but is the 970/980ti going to get me to 120fps in battlefield, battlefront, etc.
I'm not dying for an upgrade because I mostly play csgo and backlog type stuff on steam.
I guess I just wonder if I should wait. I'm OK with how fallout 4 is on ps4 but the of version looks so good.
I've been thinking about a gpu upgrade but is the 970/980ti going to get me to 120fps in battlefield, battlefront, etc.
I'm not dying for an upgrade because I mostly play csgo and backlog type stuff on steam.
I guess I just wonder if I should wait. I'm OK with how fallout 4 is on ps4 but the of version looks so good.
longdi
Banned
3000mhz is rather high overclock, removing 1 stick help to lighten the load of the IMC. How about you try putting both sticks back and run 2400 first and work your way up
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