opticalmace
Member
Check your mobo manual to see if it means something. Might want to reseat your ram, or only try one stick, try different slots, etc. Depending on what the LED means.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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Check your mobo manual to see if it means something. Might want to reseat your ram, or only try one stick, try different slots, etc. Depending on what the LED means.
TheOnlyMook
Member
Unseated my RAM, reseated. Same issue. Took one stick out, boots like a charm.
Going to test again with both sticks in, hopefully they're both alright. Thanks again guys for your help, should have just consulted my user manual first but was in a panic haha.
Edit: Reseated the RAM again, now both sticks work. So weird, I didn't even mess with my RAM when dusting. Oh well, all is well. Thanks again again guys
Going to test again with both sticks in, hopefully they're both alright. Thanks again guys for your help, should have just consulted my user manual first but was in a panic haha.
Edit: Reseated the RAM again, now both sticks work. So weird, I didn't even mess with my RAM when dusting. Oh well, all is well. Thanks again again guys
Kaspersky has been top 5 (sometimes #1) among the sites I've visited for the past few years. Generally well received. I use it now and I love it.
http://www.tomsguide.com/us/best-antivirus,review-2588-4.html
Thanks for posting this info. I'm taking 3.
BossDarkseid
Member
If Windows memory Test says hardware errors etc...would there be any point in "simply" trying to reseat the ram and see if that fixes it or am i sol and have to send it back?
Diablohead
Member
Quick question about nvidia shadowplay / nvenc quality, is there a big difference between the nvenc processor on a gtx 750 compared to a newer card like a 900 series? google is failing me on information about quality.
opticalmace
Member
Couldn't hurt though I don't know if it would even boot if it weren't seated correctly.
Definitely talk to the retailer you bought it from, or if need be the manufacturer.
BossDarkseid
Member
Yeah, I'll call them up tomorrow. It hasn't crashed again yet but win mem test still shows an error so I guess it's gotta be done.
Thanks
opticalmace
Member
You could also try running memtest86. I've never used win mem test, I assume it's reliable but I dunno.
Even though I like the EVOLV case overall, I don't like that it doesn't have an optical drive port (it would be nice to have) and the front panel only has two USB ports. I guess I may just have to compromise. The Luxe and Pro would be a bit better, but they have 3 optical drive slots which make them unappealing. Plus, the top one is actually the front panel, which I don't like being hidden like that.
// ramblings of pickiness
// ramblings of pickiness
Which 970 are you referring to?
Wag
Member
I think I solved my blanking problem. Last time I flashed my BIOS I must have set my CPU to OC too much by mistake. I downclocked it from 4.4GHz to 4.3Ghz and it seems to be good now. Funny how 1GHz could cause so many problems. I could probably up the voltage but it's not worth it on a 5280k.
BossDarkseid
Member
Yoshichan
And they made him a Lord of Cinder. Not for virtue, but for might. Such is a lord, I suppose. But here I ask. Do we have a sodding chance?
I'm being nit picky as fuck but someone help me out to at least understand what the issue is.
So I have a 144Hz screen, it's amazing. No problems at all. When I switch to 60Hz (for fun, or to show others the difference), the screen is extremely laggy. Like, I know what 60Hz looks like but this lags like no tomorrow. What can be wrong here?
So I have a 144Hz screen, it's amazing. No problems at all. When I switch to 60Hz (for fun, or to show others the difference), the screen is extremely laggy. Like, I know what 60Hz looks like but this lags like no tomorrow. What can be wrong here?
Burgess_101
Member
Is there a way to set up a hotkey on RIvatuner to change the FPS limiter between two values (144 and 90 in my case)?
TheBlackMarvel
Member
Yes a 1TB hard drive also
TheBlackMarvel
Member
So my monitor is starting to shit the bed... It's an auria 27" 2560x1440. Thankfully I bought the warranty at micro center so they'll either replace it or give me store credit for what I paid for it. Any suggestions what to get? I will have $340 in store credit and would be willing to spend an additional $200. It must be available from Microcenter, in store or online.
Or should I try to prolong the monitor if there are any new ones coming out in the future? My hdmi port stopped working, but the other ports still do so I can wait on going to the store for a couple months. The warranty is until March.
I'm running a 4770k and 980ti.
Or should I try to prolong the monitor if there are any new ones coming out in the future? My hdmi port stopped working, but the other ports still do so I can wait on going to the store for a couple months. The warranty is until March.
I'm running a 4770k and 980ti.
Burgess_101
Member
I just got 144hz freesync monitor 1440p IPS and it was worth every penny of the 370 I paid for it. Try and get the gsync equivalent maybe. No idea on the prices in the US though sorry.
I have a 390 whilst it was rocky at the start I'm warming to it, as mentioned above with my freesync monitor its perfect.
You sure you haven't got used to that 6.9ms and now find 16.6ms laggy?
Wowfunhappy
Member
Call me lazy, but is there any "Set it and forget about it" way to force SMAA in all games that could theoretically support it? On an nVidia card.
I currently have "enable fxaa" set as a global preset in the nVidia control panel; I then just turn off built in AA in whatever game I'm playing and forget that it's there.
The recent antialising topic has made me realize that I should probably be using SMAA instead of FXAA, but I'd rather not have to manually copy the injector files into every single game.
I currently have "enable fxaa" set as a global preset in the nVidia control panel; I then just turn off built in AA in whatever game I'm playing and forget that it's there.
The recent antialising topic has made me realize that I should probably be using SMAA instead of FXAA, but I'd rather not have to manually copy the injector files into every single game.
Wag
Member
1.299V on a 5820k. That's as far up as I can go on my BIOS without it going red. x43 multiplier. I could probably raise it but why bother? I am clocking ram at 19200 ram at 3200 too. lol
stanley1993
Neo Member
I remember that the person helping me previously used a site that helped configure PCs so that the different parts were compatible with each other. Does anyone know what I'm talking about?
InvertedComposer
Banned
Would the Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler fit inside my Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case.
I heard that it might be too large to fit inside.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/cjttzy - current build
I heard that it might be too large to fit inside.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/cjttzy - current build
Thanks. Also I'm wondering if I can get by with just the stock cooler with this setup. Or would I need to purchase an aftermarket cooler to play it safe.
Other ten the small amount of Ram not bad.
I just upgraded everything but my hdd, blu-ray, psu and videocard which is waiting for HBM 2 for about that.
Ok, I changed a few parts up, but I think this is what I am going to order next month. Thoughts?
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/qNwHCJ
I'll be keeping a GTX970, a 120gb SSD, and a 1TB RAID0 from my old build.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/qNwHCJ
I'll be keeping a GTX970, a 120gb SSD, and a 1TB RAID0 from my old build.
Fine, do you need the stuff the HERO has though?
and oh god why Raid0 HDD? Video capture?
I saw the 04G-P4-2976-KR for $304 at SuperBiiz (I don't think it includes tax in CA), but I don't really know what the big differences are between all these EVGA cards besides the slight clock/bios/shader tweaks.
The Raid0 is for all my game installs.
The hero was actually the cheaper than the other Asus boards.
All I want out of a motherboard is just quality really. I'm not going to be overclocking. I also want the SATA ports to be using a good chipset. Right now my ASROCK only has 4 that use the Intel controller for 6gb/s, the others use marvell which is shitty.
It may not be valid then but if you get the motherboard from microcenter you can get 20 dollar off. I went with that proc and an EVGA FTW motherboard
Hey bud, I was wondering if the list you provided was still up-to-date. If not, could you recommend me any changes?
Kite
Member
I need a quick recommendation on if it is worth the money to upgrade my 4+ year old computer that was barely mid tier when I got it, I just need it to run modern-ish games like Overwatch and Fallout 4 at mid-ish settings 60 fps. Can I get away with just swapping out the video card to something like a GTX 750 Ti or something similar for around $150 USD? Or are my parts too old and I need a new system? Thanks.
Shadowhaxor
Member
Your processor is still fairly decent, can last another year or so on it. If you can, I'd get the GTX 970 or GTX 960 over the GTX 750 ti, if at all possible.
Alright, so I'm nearing the home stretch with only two more components left to get, memory and a case. (Plus some fans depending on the case.)
Current List:
https://i.imgur.com/ZGbS1sw.png | http://pcpartpicker.com/p/qrHQrH
- I'll probably get 16GB of RAM for now and double it later.
- I'm still debating whether or not to get the Enthoo EVOLV. It's expensive, has added tax, and requires extra shipping costs. I think I'll probably go for the R5.
Current List:
https://i.imgur.com/ZGbS1sw.png | http://pcpartpicker.com/p/qrHQrH
opticalmace
Member
You're fine, all you need is a new video card. I'm not super familiar with cards around that price range, but maybe look at the Nvidia 950/960, or for AMD the 370/380.
Also, an SSD would be a great upgrade for your system.
Well, there are only three compatible motherboards available brand new as listed by PCPartPicker. The only Z77 motherboard is $212. You could look around elsewhere, maybe a local computer store or craigslist or ebay for other options.
It's never been that low before, unless you count Microcenter in-store price. Whether the i5 4590 will last long for you depends on your own needs and what you'll be doing with your PC. If you still don't have an issue with an AMD processor that old, then I'd assume you could make that i5 4590 last you quite a few years.
Depends on the rest of your PC specs. Whether you're overclocking or not will also matter. The Antec VP450 is marketed as a 450 watt power supply but according to Hardware Secrets' review, it is very well built and in the overload test was able to deliver up to ~520 watts before giving out and shutting down. According to Guru3D, the Asus Strix GTX 970 typically draws somewhat over 160 watts by itself. A 500 watt power supply is recommended.
It will be possible to run a GTX 970 on your power supply, but you would probably be running it somewhat close to its limits, depending on the rest of your systems specs and if you're overclocking. A PSU upgrade wouldn't be a bad idea if you wanted to do that.
I have those two and it fits just fine. I even have the NH-D15's 140mm fan mounted higher than normal by about 10mm and it still fits.
I'm also still considering if I should even do a full upgrade, or just upgrade from 8GB to 16GB of ram.
Here is my current rig:
Windows 10 on a 120GB SSD
I7 2600k stock
8GB DDR3
Asrock p67 extreme4
GTX970
500gb hdd (data)
1TB RAID0 hdd (games)
I game on 1080p, and just want to run games at max settings with 60fps
Here is my current rig:
Windows 10 on a 120GB SSD
I7 2600k stock
8GB DDR3
Asrock p67 extreme4
GTX970
500gb hdd (data)
1TB RAID0 hdd (games)
I game on 1080p, and just want to run games at max settings with 60fps
A GTX 970 won't handle all games at 1080p and 60FPS with max settings. Something like a GTX 980 Ti will for the next while.
It's all dry now? Any of the liquid get inside the case? Should be fine. What was spilled on it?
So a CPU/memory upgrade wouldn't really help much? I'm also thinking about getting a new case. I have a full tower right now, and I keep hearing about the fractal design R5. It's a mid, is the cooling really good in that?
opticalmace
Member
If you overclock your current CPU (and honestly even if you don't) then no, a CPU upgrade wouldn't do much for you. Nor would going to DDR4.
The R5 is a nice case, but unless your case is a crapfest I doubt you'd get any appreciable improvement in airflow. I dunno what you have now though.
Yes, they are dried.
Going by the stains on the top vented surface, I'm going to say a yes.
Tea.
Right now I have an antec 1200v3
Neither of them would really be bottlenecks. Your i7 2600K is still a great processor, especially if overclocked. PCPer's benchmarking shows that Skylake would only be 20% faster or so in computational tasks, while Anandtech shows that the 2600K is only 5~10% faster when looking at game framerate performance. If you've overclocked your i7 2600K then it's more than good enough to last for another few years. Also, 8GB of RAM won't stop you from attaining 60FPS in most if not all games, maybe except for Batman Arkham Knight. That game on PC is a unoptimized buggy piece of shit that they recommend having 12GB of RAM for just so it won't stutter as much.
The Define R5 is a very nice case, just about every professional review you can find online is glowing with praise. Airflow is pretty good, it'll take 140mm fans in just about every mounting spot and doesn't suffer for high temperatures or poor ventilation despite being fitted for noise-suppressing foam all over.
It'd only be a problem if you tried plugging it in and turning it on while it was still wet, which you obviously wouldn't do. There's nothing to worry about if it's all dry.
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