• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

Status
Not open for further replies.
It's on the end of the PCI-E slot. Press down on the hinged locking mechanism circled in red.
AKNXty6.jpg


Yeah thanks. I didn't have to do it in the end but I couldn't see that at first.

Dropped a washer on the mobo but otherwise all was well.
 

ampere

Member
Need some advice about Windows 7 and Skylake. Have a Win 7 license, but if I do the Win 10 upgrade that doesn't become a Win 10 license does it?

Am I getting myself up for future trouble by not buying a new Win 10 license if I'm getting a Skylake processor/mobo? Or should I just keep usb-ps2 converters and an optical drive around if I ever need to reinstall
 

RGM79

Member
Uhm.. I would like to keep it close to 10k SEK. The current list ends up at about 12k SEK including the cost of them building it. That's fine but I don't really wanna go any higher if I don't have to.
If you want to lower costs, I recommend looking at an i5 processor and cheaper case among other things.

How does this look? That's the latest Intel Skylake i5 processor. I don't know how much inet charges to assemble the parts for you, though. If it's still too much, then opting for the slightly older but still very competent i5 4690K, Z97 motherboard and DDR3 RAM should be enough to make it fit your budget including assembly costs. That parts list includes a CPU cooler should your friend want to overclock the PC in the future. If not then it would be cheaper to drop the CPU cooler and go with a non-overclocking processor and motherboard.

It's possible to substitute a GTX 970 into the parts list as well, this very good Gigabyte model costs about the same as the R9 390.


Looks fine to me, it has a large number of positive reviews. It's nothing special, but it'll get the job done.

any good deals on video cards? Canada

thanks.

Btw got the 602 and 502 lol. gonna most likely stick with the 502. Both mice are awesome

How much do you want to spend?

Need some advice about Windows 7 and Skylake. Have a Win 7 license, but if I do the Win 10 upgrade that doesn't become a Win 10 license does it?

Am I getting myself up for future trouble by not buying a new Win 10 license if I'm getting a Skylake processor/mobo? Or should I just keep usb-ps2 converters and an optical drive around if I ever need to reinstall

Yes, if you do the upgrade, it turns your Windows 7 license into a Windows 10 license.

I don't quite understand your question/situation, why do you need to buy a new Windows 10 license if you'll be buying a Skylake processor and motherboard? What do you need USB to PS/2 converters for? You don't need a DVD drive to reinstall Windows anymore. Since Windows 7, Microsoft has officially supported installing Windows via USB drive and have released official tools to help you do it.
 
How does this look? I don't know how much it costs for them to build it, though. If it's still too much, then opting for the slightly older but still very competent i5 4690K, Z97 motherboard and DDR3 RAM should be enough to make it fit your budget including assembly costs.

It's possible to substitute a GTX 970 into the parts list as well, this very good Gigabyte model costs about the same as the R9 390.



Looks fine to me, it has a large number of positive reviews. It's nothing special, but it'll get the job done.



How much do you want to spend?



Yes, if you do the upgrade, it turns your Windows 7 license into a Windows 10 license.

I don't quite understand your question/situation, why do you need to buy a new Windows 10 license if you'll be buying a Skylake processor and motherboard? What do you need USB to PS/2 converters for? You don't need a DVD drive to reinstall Windows anymore. Since Windows 7, Microsoft has officially supported installing Windows via USB drive and have released official tools to help you do it.

no price range yet. havent been keeping up with gpu's and if their is a good deal will upgrade otherwise i can wait.
 

Matty8787

Member
So I have a new SSD coming soon (500gb 850 EVO)

How do I transfer my current SSD including OS to the new SSD?

Also how do I transfer my whole steam library from the HDD to the new SSD?

Cheers.
 

RGM79

Member
no price range yet. havent been keeping up with gpu's and if their is a good deal will upgrade otherwise i can wait.

Well, what are your current PC specs? Maybe we can figure out what would be a good performance boost from your existing parts.

So I have a new SSD coming soon (500gb 850 EVO)

How do I transfer my current SSD including OS to the new SSD?

Also how do I transfer my whole steam library from the HDD to the new SSD?

Cheers.

Follow this guide to clone your OS to the SSD. To transfer your steam library, you can just copy the steamapps folder from your hard drive to the location of the steam program folder on the SSD.
 
Well, what are your current PC specs? Maybe we can figure out what would be a good performance boost from your existing parts.



Follow this guide to clone your OS to the SSD. To transfer your steam library, you can just copy the steamapps folder from your hard drive to the location of the steam program folder on the SSD.

that would help lol.
i5 quad core overclocked to 4.3GHz
i have an amd video card i think the 6700 series
16gb ram
ssd card.
computer is pretty well built so no worries. just havent been keeping up to date with video card progression and if an upgrade is worth it...
 

ampere

Member
Yes, if you do the upgrade, it turns your Windows 7 license into a Windows 10 license.

I don't quite understand your question/situation, why do you need to buy a new Windows 10 license if you'll be buying a Skylake processor and motherboard? What do you need USB to PS/2 converters for? You don't need a DVD drive to reinstall Windows anymore. Since Windows 7, Microsoft has officially supported installing Windows via USB drive and have released official tools to help you do it.

As I understood it, you can't install Windows 7 via USB on a Skylake mobo, so that was my concern.

If I can do the upgrade on my old PC and get my Windows 7 license turned into a Windows 10 one, then I think I can migrate that license to my new machine. So it seems like it should work
 

RGM79

Member
that would help lol.
i5 quad core overclocked to 4.3GHz
i have an amd video card i think the 6700 series
16gb ram
ssd card.
computer is pretty well built so no worries. just havent been keeping up to date with video card progression and if an upgrade is worth it...

Going off that, it definitely sounds like you only need a new graphics card. If it is an AMD 6xxx model, then most graphics cards in the $200 and up range should prove to be a good performance boost for you.

I'm having a weird issue with my computer. Earlier today, I had a problem where the computer wouldn't boot at all. Now I get it to boot, but it shuts down, then reboots and keeps running. Everything I see online only addresses when the thing just constantly boot loops.

video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQjFnDtG0Cs

System specs? Have you changed or done anything with the PC's hardware recently? First thing I would suspect is the PSU. Unplug the motherboard power cable and try the paper clip test to see if the PSU will stay on by itself. If it does, then the issue may lie somewhere else.
 
Going off that, it definitely sounds like you only need a new graphics card. If it is an AMD 6xxx model, then most graphics cards in the $200 and up range should prove to be a good performance boost for you.



System specs? Have you changed or done anything with the PC's hardware recently? First thing I would suspect is the PSU. Unplug the motherboard power cable and try the paper clip test to see if the PSU will stay on by itself. If it does, then the issue may lie somewhere else.

any suggestions? thinking of a nvidia
 

RGM79

Member
So my buddy just messaged me about buying a new desktop to play games on. I asked if he wanted to build one and we could do it together, but he doesn't want to.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpo...ack-blue/4294514.p?id=bb4294514&skuId=4294514

He's looking at that one now, so I figured I'd do some research on whether or not it's worth spending $700 on.

The GTX 960 is okay, but avoid computers with an AMD FX processor. Those processors are three years old and Intel trumps them fairly easily in gaming performance. Look for something with an i5 processor.

As I understood it, you can't install Windows 7 via USB on a Skylake mobo, so that was my concern.

If I can do the upgrade on my old PC and get my Windows 7 license turned into a Windows 10 one, then I think I can migrate that license to my new machine. So it seems like it should work

Oh, right. Forgot about that, you are correct. You'll need an optical drive.

No, you cannot do the Windows 10 upgrade on your old PC and then transfer the Windows 10 license.

any suggestions? thinking of a nvidia

Then look for the GTX 960 4GB, GTX 970, or GTX 980 Ti. If you decide how much to spend, we can give you specific examples.
 

Devildoll

Member
I'm having a weird issue with my computer. Earlier today, I had a problem where the computer wouldn't boot at all. Now I get it to boot, but it shuts down, then reboots and keeps running. Everything I see online only addresses when the thing just constantly boot loops.

video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQjFnDtG0Cs

One thing i notice is that cpu push pin in the lower left corner from the video orientation is in the detach position.

rjsNssO.png


This means you might not have perfect connection between your cpu and heatsink, since that corner is loose.
I would think that it should still not be severe enough for the computer to emergency shutdown that fast though.
but reinstalling the cooler is a good idea in any case. ( you're going to need to buy some thermal paste if you dont have a tube at home )

The arrows on the pins can be deceiving to a novice builder, this video is a decent tutorial on how they work.
 
The GTX 960 is okay, but avoid computers with an AMD FX processor. Those processors are three years old and Intel trumps them fairly easily in gaming performance. Look for something with an i5 processor.



Oh, right. Forgot about that, you are correct. You'll need an optical drive.

No, you cannot do the Windows 10 upgrade on your old PC and then transfer the Windows 10 license.



Then look for the GTX 960 4GB, GTX 970, or GTX 980 Ti. If you decide how much to spend, we can give you specific examples.

at this point 200-230. and video card is radeon hd 7950. big difference than what i mentioned earlier
 

RGM79

Member
at this point 200-230. and video card is radeon hd 7950. big difference than what i mentioned earlier

The HD7950 is actually still really good. The best brand new graphics card available for $230 CAD is the GTX 960 2GB model, and it would actually be about the maybe just slightly faster than your HD7950, according to these charts by TechPowerUp.

Ah, ok. I should be able to migrate the Windows 7 license, do the optical drive install, upgrade to 10 on the new machine, and then be set though? That seems like it works as long as I haven't used my Win 10 upgrade yet (I haven't).

Yes, that should work.
 
Bluetooth question.

If I buy this for my dad's computer:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q45EF4/?tag=neogaf0e-20

And he has a blue tooth enabled speaker. Would that work? What's the range on one of these things?

I want him to be able to stream the audio he does on his computer and move the audio with him around the house b/c he's in a wheel chair. If this isn't what I'm looking for any tips?

Thanks,
 

Spyware

Member
If you want to lower costs, I recommend looking at an i5 processor and cheaper case among other things.

How does this look? That's the latest Intel Skylake i5 processor. I don't know how much inet charges to assemble the parts for you, though. If it's still too much, then opting for the slightly older but still very competent i5 4690K, Z97 motherboard and DDR3 RAM should be enough to make it fit your budget including assembly costs. That parts list includes a CPU cooler should your friend want to overclock the PC in the future. If not then it would be cheaper to drop the CPU cooler and go with a non-overclocking processor and motherboard.

It's possible to substitute a GTX 970 into the parts list as well, this very good Gigabyte model costs about the same as the R9 390.
Sadly the i7 is the only part he's very adamant about, mostly because all of his elitist friends saying nothing else is good enough. Ugh. If he just listened to me an no one else this would be much cheaper ;D It's also hard to convince him that i7 isn't needed when I use it myself. That my partner use the i5 4690K in an otherwise completely identical build and we notice only a few very small differences can't sway him.
At the moment, if I go for an i5 he won't be happy with the build and then it would just feel like I wasted all the money. I do have a few weeks left to talk to him about it and we're gonna order it together on christmas so I might be able to change his mind about some stuff. I'm definitely gonna consider the things you linked. Many thanks for the suggestions!

They have a good part selection, you should consider building an mATX or mITX build, no need for a huge tower these days.
Yeah, just not the parts that are in the lists in the OP, and that I myself use and like. ;P
Any examples there? As I said, mobo's are my weak spot D: Wouldn't know what to pick. I went tower mostly because he needs to put in some of his stuff himself even tho Inet will build most of it (since he's gonna use his old storage, sound card and maybe a memory card reader) and more space when doing that is worth much when you're inexperienced. That mobo is also what the biggest Swedish PC enthusiast forum seems to be recommending in 1150 builds so that felt like a safer choice than stuff I know nothing about :p
 
Current PC specs:

GTX 750 Ti SC 2 GB (SC meaning "super-clocked" aka factory-overclocked)
8 GB 1600 Mhz
i5 2500k @ 4.0

My question:

I basically want to 1) Continue to be able to use Shadowplay (so, I want to upgrade to another nVidia card) and 2) Have a better video card that won't cost me over $150-$200 including tax/shipping (I'm in the USA).

Is the 950 my best bet? I can also re-sell my 750 I assume for at least $40, so I'm willing to take that into account, although I'd prefer just sticking with a $150-$200 price range and then just be able to recoup some of that by selling my 750.

It seems like I could even get a 960 in that price range. Is dropping $150-$200 going to be a worthwhile upgrade from my 750 Ti, or am I wasting my time and should hold out for a new batch of low-mid level cards?
 

RGM79

Member
Bluetooth question.

If I buy this for my dad's computer:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q45EF4/?tag=neogaf0e-20

And he has a blue tooth enabled speaker. Would that work? What's the range on one of these things?

I want him to be able to stream the audio he does on his computer and move the audio with him around the house b/c he's in a wheel chair. If this isn't what I'm looking for any tips?

Thanks,

Yes, it should work. The range is as written on the product description (30 feet / 10 metres). The range might possibly be less if there's radio interference or if there are walls or other obstructions in the way. How far away will he be from the computer that the music is streaming from?

Sadly the i7 is the only part he's very adamant about, mostly because all of his elitist friends saying nothing else is good enough. Ugh. If he just listened to me an no one else this would be much cheaper ;D It's also hard to convince him that i7 isn't needed when I use it myself. That my partner use the i5 4690K in an otherwise completely identical build and we notice only a few very small differences can't sway him.
At the moment, if I go for an i5 he won't be happy with the build and then it would just feel like I wasted all the money. I do have a few weeks left to talk to him about it and we're gonna order it together on christmas so I might be able to change his mind about some stuff. I'm definitely gonna consider the things you linked. Many thanks for the suggestions!


Yeah, just not the parts that are in the lists in the OP, and that I myself use and like. ;P
Any examples there? As I said, mobo's are my weak spot D: Wouldn't know what to pick. I went tower mostly because he needs to put in some of his stuff himself even tho Inet will build most of it (since he's gonna use his old storage, sound card and maybe a memory card reader) and more space when doing that is worth much when you're inexperienced. That mobo is also what the biggest Swedish PC enthusiast forum seems to be recommending in 1150 builds so that felt like a safer choice than stuff I know nothing about :p

The i7 processor is the most expensive part on the list. If he won't be overclocking, then you could possibly opt for a non overclocking i7 processor or the Xeon E3 1231V3, which is roughly equivalent to an i7 processor in that it has hyperthreading, the same amount of cache, and similar clock speeds.
 

LilJoka

Member
Sadly the i7 is the only part he's very adamant about, mostly because all of his elitist friends saying nothing else is good enough. Ugh. If he just listened to me an no one else this would be much cheaper ;D It's also hard to convince him that i7 isn't needed when I use it myself. That my partner use the i5 4690K in an otherwise completely identical build and we notice only a few very small differences can't sway him.
At the moment, if I go for an i5 he won't be happy with the build and then it would just feel like I wasted all the money. I do have a few weeks left to talk to him about it and we're gonna order it together on christmas so I might be able to change his mind about some stuff. I'm definitely gonna consider the things you linked. Many thanks for the suggestions!


Yeah, just not the parts that are in the lists in the OP, and that I myself use and like. ;P
Any examples there? As I said, mobo's are my weak spot D: Wouldn't know what to pick. I went tower mostly because he needs to put in some of his stuff himself even tho Inet will build most of it (since he's gonna use his old storage, sound card and maybe a memory card reader) and more space when doing that is worth much when you're inexperienced. That mobo is also what the biggest Swedish PC enthusiast forum seems to be recommending in 1150 builds so that felt like a safer choice than stuff I know nothing about :p

Can you list all the parts you have? How many hdds?
And what's he going to play or do with the pc?
 
I have a couple questions for you all!

So my current setup is getting a little old. I mean a lot old. I am currently running an i7 980 Overclocked with Crossfire 6970s. It is now on the old end. Games are starting to not run that well. My biggest question is what is the best course of action to upgrade? Should I go all out and just build a new one, or is it feasible to just buy a 980/980ti and wait a couple months. Is my CPU the big bottleneck here? Obviously my cards aren't the best, but if I can wait a couple months/year to upgrade CPU/Motherboard that would be best, but I dont' want to buy a new graphics card to just be bottle necked by my CPU and have to upgrade that right away. Thanks.
 
Yes, it should work. The range is as written on the product description (30 feet / 10 metres). The range might possibly be less if there's radio interference or if there are walls or other obstructions in the way. How far away will he be from the computer that the music is streaming from?

Not sure the exact but I can find out easy enough. I'm a noob when it comes to bluetooth. Are there differences in signal strength like WiFi and I could just buy a more poewrful chip?

edit: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VWEK4IG/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Answered my own question, that one has 5x the distance as the previous one I linked. I know it's up to and you probably won't get that but larger range would be better. Any comments on Bluetooth range?
 

Sykane

Member
Hey guys, looking for a little help here to finish my build. Got a good deal this weekend on an i5 6500 and a Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P ATX board and today I snagged a Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1. I'm now just looking for a new case and PSU to complete my build and could use some advice.

For the PSU I was thinking about the EVGA 600B, it seems to be recommended here and is relatively cheap with good quality. Anything else I should consider that might be cheaper and still fit the build?

My real problem is a case though, i've been looking but im finding it difficult to figure out what case will fit all my components. The 970 I got seems to be long (29-30cm is what i have read) so finding a decent case that will fit, looks nice and is on the cheap side has been tough. Style wise, im not looking for much, nothing too super gamer or anything with LED's everywhere, but I do think a window would be nice (im doing this build with my son who is 7, so I think he would think it would be cool, but it's no deal breaker). I looked at the budget options in the OP, and I was able to find This Bitfenix Comrade for the right price but i've heard conflicting reports about the space inside the case, especially since im using a ATX board and the 970 I mentioned. I would really like to keep the case price to around $50 or below, but I want something that will work with my build.


Any help would be greatly appreciated by me and my son!
 
Anyone know of some non-sucky Bluetooth mice? (Bluetooth as in actual bluetooth, not wireless with a dongle)

I've been using the Razer Orochi for the past three years and love it, but it keeps freaking breaking on me. I've tried other Bluetooth mice in the past and they often feel laggy and/or imprecise.
 

RGM79

Member
Current PC specs:

GTX 750 Ti SC 2 GB (SC meaning "super-clocked" aka factory-overclocked)
8 GB 1600 Mhz
i5 2500k @ 4.0

My question:

I basically want to 1) Continue to be able to use Shadowplay (so, I want to upgrade to another nVidia card) and 2) Have a better video card that won't cost me over $150-$200 including tax/shipping (I'm in the USA).

Is the 950 my best bet? I can also re-sell my 750 I assume for at least $40, so I'm willing to take that into account, although I'd prefer just sticking with a $150-$200 price range and then just be able to recoup some of that by selling my 750.

It seems like I could even get a 960 in that price range. Is dropping $150-$200 going to be a worthwhile upgrade from my 750 Ti, or am I wasting my time and should hold out for a new batch of low-mid level cards?

The GTX 950 is nice for a low budget, but if you want the graphics card to last a few years longer at higher settings, go for a graphics card with 4GB VRAM. Given your requirements and budget, I'd recommend a GTX 960 4GB. Do you care about noise levels? Some of these GTX 960 cards come with coolers that will automatically turn off the fans at low temperatures and when not gaming so as to keep noise levels down.

What sort of performance improvements are you hoping to see with a new graphics card? What games do you play and what settings/framerate do you want to achieve? Also, would price rebates be acceptible or would you want to stay at $200 max before counting rebates?

I can't exactly recommend waiting for the next line of mid-range graphics cards. There's at least half a year or more until Nvidia launches their Pascal line of graphics cards, and it's unlikely to replace the GTX 960 right away. There are rumors of a GTX 960 Ti, but there's barely any information about it and the same rumor says it won't be out until January.
 

RGM79

Member
I have a couple questions for you all!

So my current setup is getting a little old. I mean a lot old. I am currently running an i7 980 Overclocked with Crossfire 6970s. It is now on the old end. Games are starting to not run that well. My biggest question is what is the best course of action to upgrade? Should I go all out and just build a new one, or is it feasible to just buy a 980/980ti and wait a couple months. Is my CPU the big bottleneck here? Obviously my cards aren't the best, but if I can wait a couple months/year to upgrade CPU/Motherboard that would be best, but I dont' want to buy a new graphics card to just be bottle necked by my CPU and have to upgrade that right away. Thanks.

There's nothing new coming in the next couple of months in terms of processors and graphics cards, so unless you have other reasons to wait. If you buy a graphics card now and it turns out the i7 980 is still a performance bottleneck for the games you want to play, you don't have to upgrade right away.

Not sure the exact but I can find out easy enough. I'm a noob when it comes to bluetooth. Are there differences in signal strength like WiFi and I could just buy a more poewrful chip?

edit: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VWEK4IG/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Answered my own question, that one has 5x the distance as the previous one I linked. I know it's up to and you probably won't get that but larger range would be better. Any comments on Bluetooth range?

Most bluetooth adaptors are built to certain standards when it comes to things like range. Yes, you're looking for a class 1 adaptor.
 
The GTX 950 is nice for a low budget, but if you want the graphics card to last a few years longer at higher settings, go for a graphics card with 4GB VRAM. Given your requirements and budget, I'd recommend a GTX 960 4GB. Do you care about noise levels? Some of these GTX 960 cards come with coolers that will automatically turn off the fans at low temperatures and when not gaming so as to keep noise levels down.

What sort of performance improvements are you hoping to see with a new graphics card? What games do you play and what settings/framerate do you want to achieve? Also, would price rebates be acceptible or would you want to stay at $200 max before counting rebates?

I can't exactly recommend waiting for the next line of mid-range graphics cards. There's at least half a year or more until Nvidia launches their Pascal line of graphics cards, and it's unlikely to replace the GTX 960 right away. There are rumors of a GTX 960 Ti, but there's barely any information about it and the same rumor says it won't be out until January.

Thanks for the thorough post. The 960 4GB seems like a good idea for me. Anyway, as far games, I generally play low-requirement games (Heroes of the Storm, WoW, Hearthstone) and plan to play the new Master of Orion (which I think will not be crazy requirements-wise). Most immediately though is Just Cause 3; I'd like to be able to run it at 1080p, 30 FPS, high settings and I'm not sure my 750 Ti will cut it (though I'll find out tonight). So, in case the 750 can't handle it, I'd like to upgrade, hence these posts. Generally-speaking though, 60 FPS is preferred, but 30 FPS that is stable is acceptable to me.

A quiet card would be nice because I do a decent amount of recording (via Shadowplay) while I play and too loud of a card and I risk it being picked up by my microphone setup.

Rebates are fine. I'm like... 15 out of 15 lifetime with rebates working, so I have no concerns with them not being successful.

I'll do some more looking, but a 4 GB 960 seems pretty legit right now. I'll have to look at some reviews of specific models more closely to make sure that the dB rating isn't anything crazy either.
 

Resilient

Member
Hey all, think I know the answer to my question but will ask anyway.

Doing a build for someone using for office work basically, trying to decide between using

Intel Pentium Anniversary Edition G3258 and going for an 1150 socket build, or
i5 6400 and going for an 1151, and future proofing it a bit more.

Thoughts? Just worried that the G3258 will start to fall behind fairly quickly in the next 5 years, and would figure it's better to spend the extra maybe $300 on an 1151 build. Neither builds will use a GPU.
 

RGM79

Member
Hey guys, looking for a little help here to finish my build. Got a good deal this weekend on an i5 6500 and a Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P ATX board and today I snagged a Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1. I'm now just looking for a new case and PSU to complete my build and could use some advice.

For the PSU I was thinking about the EVGA 600B, it seems to be recommended here and is relatively cheap with good quality. Anything else I should consider that might be cheaper and still fit the build?

My real problem is a case though, i've been looking but im finding it difficult to figure out what case will fit all my components. The 970 I got seems to be long (29-30cm is what i have read) so finding a decent case that will fit, looks nice and is on the cheap side has been tough. Style wise, im not looking for much, nothing too super gamer or anything with LED's everywhere, but I do think a window would be nice (im doing this build with my son who is 7, so I think he would think it would be cool, but it's no deal breaker). I looked at the budget options in the OP, and I was able to find This Bitfenix Comrade for the right price but i've heard conflicting reports about the space inside the case, especially since im using a ATX board and the 970 I mentioned. I would really like to keep the case price to around $50 or below, but I want something that will work with my build.

Any help would be greatly appreciated by me and my son!

PCPartPicker is your friend, it's fairly good with figuring out if parts will fit together.

In your case, I'd recommend the Corsair 200R ($43 after $10 rebate). If you want to stick to $50 or less before counting rebates, then the Corsair Spec-01 ($35 after $15 rebate) or Corsair 100R Windowed edition ($38 after $10 rebate) are nice.

Here's a list of cases that fit your criteria (has window and costs $50 or less). The Enermax Ostrog also seems like a decent choice, although I'm not too familiar with that model.

Is this pc good for $400?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B014QVM2KO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
and can I use my windows 7 disc for multiple computers? ...and then update to windows 10

It's a really basic PC, doesn't have a graphics card. It's definitely low priced, I can't put together a custom PC parts list to beat that for $400. What will you be using the PC for?

No, you can only use your Windows 7 license and upgrade to Windows 10 on one PC only. You can transfer the Windows 7 license around, but you can't be running multiple copies of Windows 7 with only one license.

Hey all, think I know the answer to my question but will ask anyway.

Doing a build for someone using for office work basically, trying to decide between using

Intel Pentium Anniversary Edition G3258 and going for an 1150 socket build, or
i5 6400 and going for an 1151, and future proofing it a bit more.

Thoughts? Just worried that the G3258 will start to fall behind fairly quickly in the next 5 years, and would figure it's better to spend the extra maybe $300 on an 1151 build. Neither builds will use a GPU.

With socket 1151, you could get a motherboard with USB 3.1. Those mainly seem to only be available on Z170 models, though. I don't recall seeing a H110/B150/H170 motherboard that had USB 3.1 available. DDR3 or DDR4 shouldn't matter much unless they were doing some kind of special computational work that actually really depends on the RAM.

Would a Haswell i5 build be an option? It'd be a bit cheaper than the Skylake i5 build yet offer nearly the same performance.
 
I took my PC with me on a trip over the weekend. Where I stayed had some crazy static electricity

When I plugged in my keyboard to my pcs usb, there was a huge shock and now I can't get my keyboard to work anymore on anything. And in that USB port, I can't get my mouse to work either. Is that port just dead now? I can't get it to work. I think this one shock made that port and my keyboard die. This seems pretty funny after writing it, but is there a way to fix this? lol
 
So I'm giving a gaming PC some serious thought as I've now had my Macbook for 4 years and i've been a console only guy for about the past 6 years. I used to game quite a lot on PC and knew how things worked but I'm so out of touch.

I want to game at high settings and aim for 60fps in all games where possible. I like action adventure games, FPS and the occasional RPG.

With this in mind does the following build look like it'll give me the desired performance?

Intel i7-4790k
Asus Z97-P: ATX
16GB HyperX DDR3 2133MHz
4GB GTX 970
250GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD
3TB WD BLACK HD
Corsair 650w CS series Modular

Thanks to whoever can help!
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks for the thorough post. The 960 4GB seems like a good idea for me. Anyway, as far games, I generally play low-requirement games (Heroes of the Storm, WoW, Hearthstone) and plan to play the new Master of Orion (which I think will not be crazy requirements-wise). Most immediately though is Just Cause 3; I'd like to be able to run it at 1080p, 30 FPS, high settings and I'm not sure my 750 Ti will cut it (though I'll find out tonight). So, in case the 750 can't handle it, I'd like to upgrade, hence these posts. Generally-speaking though, 60 FPS is preferred, but 30 FPS that is stable is acceptable to me.

A quiet card would be nice because I do a decent amount of recording (via Shadowplay) while I play and too loud of a card and I risk it being picked up by my microphone setup.

Rebates are fine. I'm like... 15 out of 15 lifetime with rebates working, so I have no concerns with them not being successful.

I'll do some more looking, but a 4 GB 960 seems pretty legit right now. I'll have to look at some reviews of specific models more closely to make sure that the dB rating isn't anything crazy either.

Then to save you some time, I recommend either of these three models: Gigabyte Windforce, Asus Strix, or MSI Gaming 4G. They all have the feature of zero speed fan modes at low temperatures. The links go to price trackers that will tell you how much they cost after rebate or coupon or both. Check out some reviews and and figure out which one would be the least troublesome to order, and there you go.

I took my PC with me on a trip over the weekend. Where I stayed had some crazy static electricity

When I plugged in my keyboard to my pcs usb, there was a huge shock and now I can't get my keyboard to work anymore on anything. And in that USB port, I can't get my mouse to work either. Is that port just dead now? I can't get it to work. I think this one shock made that port and my keyboard die. This seems pretty funny after writing it, but is there a way to fix this? lol

The port's dead and likely burnt out, there's nothing you can do. Use another USB port, and a USB hub if you don't have enough ports. Keyboards aren't really made to be repairable.. but if it's only the connector that is damaged, you could try splicing a different connector onto the keyboard's USB cable but I doubt it'd make a difference.

So I'm giving a gaming PC some serious thought as I've now had my Macbook for 4 years and i've been a console only guy for about the past 6 years. I used to game quite a lot on PC and knew how things worked but I'm so out of touch.

I want to game at high settings and aim for 60fps in all games where possible. I like action adventure games, FPS and the occasional RPG.

With this in mind does the following build look like it'll give me the desired performance?

Intel i7-4790k
Asus Z97-P: ATX
16GB HyperX DDR3 2133MHz
4GB GTX 970
250GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD
3TB WD BLACK HD
Corsair 650w CS series Modular

Thanks to whoever can help!

Those parts look fine for the most part (maybe go with a different power supply), but what country are you in, how much are you paying and what's your overall budget? If you can, please fill out the questionnaire at the first post of this thread and we'll have a better idea of what you want.

Other questions to consider would be whether you want a compact PC, or one built for silence, etc.
 
The port's dead and likely burnt out, there's nothing you can do. Use another USB port, and a USB hub if you don't have enough ports. Keyboards aren't really made to be repairable.. but if it's only the connector that is damaged, you could try splicing a different connector onto the keyboard's USB cable but I doubt it'd make a difference

That's kind of a bummer. At least it was only a crappy 15 dollar keyboard from target. No big loss. I have other USB ports
 
Those parts look fine for the most part (maybe go with a different power supply), but what country are you in, how much are you paying and what's your overall budget? If you can, please fill out the questionnaire at the first post of this thread and we'll have a better idea of what you want.

Other questions to consider would be whether you want a compact PC, or one built for silence, etc.

Thanks.

I live in the UK.
My budget is around £1300.
I want to use it for mostly gaming at 1080p / 60fps high settings.
Games coming in the near future are things like Tomb Raider, Mafia 3, Mirrors Edge.
I'd like a quiet build and one that is relatively future proof as I probably wouldn't upgrade for another 3 years or so. (Probably around the time new consoles release).

Hope that is helpful.
 

snack

Member
Getting the following build for a friend. Just want to confirm, can I play games on max settings on 1280x720? Counter strike go, new need for speed game are a couple of games friend would like to play.
 

Spyware

Member
The i7 processor is the most expensive part on the list. If he won't be overclocking, then you could possibly opt for a non overclocking i7 processor or the Xeon E3 1231V3, which is roughly equivalent to an i7 processor in that it has hyperthreading, the same amount of cache, and similar clock speeds.
Oh, interesting. "Webblager: [yellow dot] Ej i lager" means it's out of stock tho (with no info on if/when it will be in). Gotta look for the green dots or the yellow ones that have a date that shows when they get them in again.
I'm thinking I'll just give him 10k and let him pay for the rest himself. He currently thinks that he'll have to buy it himself and is willing to spend a bunch on it anyway. Not 10k but with both of us paying for it the budget would still be quite a bit higher. Mom thought it was a good idea and she's pretty much in charge of his money still ;D
If I don't have to change anything due to the cost, is there anything in the (below linked) original build I should change for quality/performance/cost vs. performance/whatever reasons?

Can you list all the parts you have? How many hdds?
And what's he going to play or do with the pc?
Here's a link to the complete first build. He has either one or two big HDDs and an SSD for some special games and Windows. Can't ask him atm. I gave him a sound card last year but really can't remember which one it was and he never got around to installing it. Bah. The memory card reader is news to me so I have no idea what it might be.

He's spending pretty much all his at home time on the computer. Either watching movies, talking to friends or playing. Mostly everything at the same time. At the moment he plays a bunch of MMOs (with GW2 as his main one), AC: Syndicate and Fallout 4.
 

Wag

Member
Screen is still blanking out. No driver failures. I give up. I've had so many problems with my setup I have no idea what's going on. I just can't seem to figure it out. Since it's happening in the BIOS it can be any number of things. It's even happening when I turn off SLI. It can either be:

A: Motherboard. (Which I replaced along with new CPU)
B: Videocard (1 of 3 or more?)
C: PSU (Which I replaced)

I'm stumped.

I just want to play a game with no problems. 😢
 

Resilient

Member
With socket 1151, you could get a motherboard with USB 3.1. Those mainly seem to only be available on Z170 models, though. I don't recall seeing a H110/B150/H170 motherboard that had USB 3.1 available. DDR3 or DDR4 shouldn't matter much unless they were doing some kind of special computational work that actually really depends on the RAM.

Would a Haswell i5 build be an option? It'd be a bit cheaper than the Skylake i5 build yet offer nearly the same performance.

Haswell i5 is an option, but that closes the cost gap even more to only being a $150-$200 difference between Haswell and Skylake, at which point I would figure it's better to just go with Skylake and have the provision for whatever programs throw at them in the next 3 years.
 

knitoe

Member
Screen is still blanking out. No driver failures. I give up. I've had so many problems with my setup I have no idea what's going on. I just can't seem to figure it out. Since it's happening in the BIOS it can be any number of things. It's even happening when I turn off SLI. It can either be:

A: Motherboard. (Which I replaced along with new CPU)
B: Videocard (1 of 3 or more?)
C: PSU (Which I replaced)

I'm stumped.

I just want to play a game with no problems. 😢
Have you tried:
1) Testing the cards separately? 2 only at a time?
2) Different monitor cables?
3) Different SLI cables
 
Yooo I totally forgot about craigslist, after black friday/cyber monday it'll probably have some decent deals.

I'm looking at

- MSI 390 for $270 (closest drive)
- XFX 390 for $265 (~ 1 hour drive)
- Reference (I think) 970 for $260 (~ 1.5 hour drive)

You guys got any suggestions on which one to pursue?
 

hateradio

The Most Dangerous Yes Man
Since NewEgg has 32GB of G.Skill Ripjaws 4 for less (in terms of GB/dollar) again, I was contemplating getting it.

Yet, I've read that Ripjaws V is "optimized" for dual channel, while the other is for quad.

Aside from that, the only real difference to me is the speed, 2800 vs 3200. Would I perceive any difference? I could just get the 16 now and add another set later.

I do plan to use several VMs, so having extra memory would be nice.

https://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f43200c16d16gvkb (16GB - V)
https://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f42800c16q32grk (32GB - 4)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom