ISee
Member
Are you sure your new PSU watt output is high enough to supply your PC with enough power?
What brand is it, what's the output rating and what's your CPU/GPU etc.?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Are you sure your new PSU watt output is high enough to supply your PC with enough power?
What brand is it, what's the output rating and what's your CPU/GPU etc.?
Guys, I'm having a really weird problem.
I've tested all my components with my gaming PC and individually they seem to be all fine.
I've assembled the new parts outside the case with the bare minimum stuff, PW + -, PW LED + - only and the system turns on.
Next I've put the motherboard inside the case and it doesn't turn on. If I move it away from the screw locations, its fine and turns on.
Help?
Monitor-GAF, need some help deciding on a 4K monitor. My ideal solution would be a monitor where I can have "4 1080p windows" open for work without having to squint my eyes all the time. I am currently working with a 1080p set (BenQ XL2411T) alt-tabbing like a madman. My work is heavily text based. I currently run Windows 8.1 with a GTX 970 and an i5-2500K @ 4.2 GHz.
There are 4K monitors between 28 and 40 inch. According to my logic, a 40 inch 4K would be "better" because I have more space compared to the 28 inch. The problem is that the 40 inch does not have any ergonomical features.
28 inch: http://geizhals.at/iiyama-g-master-gb2888uhsu-b1-gold-phoenix-a1354270.html
40 inch: http://geizhals.at/iiyama-prolite-x4071uhsu-b1-a1362847.html
The monitor does not have to be from iiyama, these serve as examples.
Thanks!
There are 4K monitors between 28 and 40 inch. According to my logic, a 40 inch 4K would be "better" because I have more space compared to the 28 inch. The problem is that the 40 inch does not have any ergonomical features.
28 inch: http://geizhals.at/iiyama-g-master-gb2888uhsu-b1-gold-phoenix-a1354270.html
40 inch: http://geizhals.at/iiyama-prolite-x4071uhsu-b1-a1362847.html
The monitor does not have to be from iiyama, these serve as examples.
Thanks!
I don't really know where I should post this since I couldn't find a topic about receivers so I guess this is the most appropriate one.
At the moment my pc, PS4, Xbox One and Wii U are all connected to my monitor through HDMI. For getting sound from my consoles to my pc speakers I'm using an optical cable for my PS4 and Xbox One and the component cable with a converter for the Wii U which are connected to my pc. Now I'm kind of sick with having to switch cables around and changing settings on my pc all the time so I'm looking for a easier solution.
The most obvious one was just buying an AV receiver with HDMI ports and some new speakers and connect everything (consoles + pc + speakers) to the receiver through HDMI but after doing some research I'm kind of worried about the input lag. The most important thing is the input lag when gaming on my pc since that's my main platform. Does anybody have any experience with this? I'm currently thinking of buying the Yamaha RX-V379
Or would I just be better to buy something like the Logitech Z906 so I don't need the receiver but settle for worse quality of sound?
My budget isn't really high (around 450).
At the moment my pc, PS4, Xbox One and Wii U are all connected to my monitor through HDMI. For getting sound from my consoles to my pc speakers I'm using an optical cable for my PS4 and Xbox One and the component cable with a converter for the Wii U which are connected to my pc. Now I'm kind of sick with having to switch cables around and changing settings on my pc all the time so I'm looking for a easier solution.
The most obvious one was just buying an AV receiver with HDMI ports and some new speakers and connect everything (consoles + pc + speakers) to the receiver through HDMI but after doing some research I'm kind of worried about the input lag. The most important thing is the input lag when gaming on my pc since that's my main platform. Does anybody have any experience with this? I'm currently thinking of buying the Yamaha RX-V379
Or would I just be better to buy something like the Logitech Z906 so I don't need the receiver but settle for worse quality of sound?
My budget isn't really high (around 450).
j0hnny_385
Member
Still trying to find something like DataVAC for the EU market. No luck.
Finaika
Member
I have the Yamaha RX-V375, connected my PS4, PS3 & PC with no problems.
The lossless audio is amazing.
EDIT: I bought it mainly for the Dolby TruHD & DTS-HD Master Audio encoding for watching Blu-ray movies, but its great for gaming too.
killertofu
Member
Wow. I put my 3 year old Mobo on Ebay and it selling for more than I bought it for
opticalmace
Member
Sounds like something is shorting out. It'd a common issue so I would just google it. I would for you but I'm on my phone.
BossDarkseid
Member
Quick and relatively urgent question.
PC arrived back from being ram'd (due to ram/mobo problems).
Are power cords interchangeable if they fit? Because they seem to have shipped it back without the cable. I still have a 3 pin type cable from my old PC but I haven't tried it yet, just wanted to ask super quick.
PC arrived back from being ram'd (due to ram/mobo problems).
Are power cords interchangeable if they fit? Because they seem to have shipped it back without the cable. I still have a 3 pin type cable from my old PC but I haven't tried it yet, just wanted to ask super quick.
Yeah easily. It's EVGA 750 G2 Gold with 4690k oc'd to 4.5 Mhz and 980 Ti.
ISee
Member
Those?
Sure!
Hmm can you try to downclock your CPU back to normal levels and then try again? Maybe your OC isn't stable.
BossDarkseid
Member
?
Those?
Sue!
Yeah, those sorta ones.
Thanks!
Edit: OldPC's cable worked and ran Windows Mem Diagnostic and no errors! Success!
Okay that's good to hear! Thanks for the info.
Thoughts on SLI? one 970 isn't enough to max out my 3440x1440 monitor so I need a bit more power. I've never heard many positive things about doing it but it would be my cheapest option to drive that many pixels on ultra settings in heavy games. I have a 600W PSU would it be enough? or would I need to go to 700W?
Or should I just wait for the 1080Ti or whatever they are going to call it?
Or should I just wait for the 1080Ti or whatever they are going to call it?
qa_engineer
Member
I would wait for the next generation of cards. You're going to regret spending that money on a 970 when you could spend a little more for the latest tech. I'm still rocking a 390X at the moment and haven't invested in the Fury X or 980ti because they will be old news really soon with the introduction of HBM2. What I really want is a single card, dual gpu solution from AMD with HBM2
Skyfireblaze
Member
This might be kind of random to ask but has anyone here with a ASRock mainboard ever recovered from the dreaded RAM-slot failure without RMAing it?
Quick background for those unaware, not sure how it is nowadays with Skylake and Haswell but from my googling it seems back in the Ivy Bridge days ASRock boards seems to suffer from a problem where one of the two RAM channels often wouldn't work at all due to fragile pin-design on ASRock CPU sockets, effectively either bending 1-2 pins or simply not connecting them properly to the CPU.
Now my PC with a 3570k and a ASRock Z77 Pro 3 works rock-solid for two years so far but I have to run my memory in Single-Channel mode since my A1 and A2 slots are effectively dead. Whenever I put memory in either the system reboots over and over trying to detect the RAM only to fail each time. Putting both in B1 and B2 the system runs with no issues at all. I know Dual-Channel has hardly any noticeable real-world performance gain so it never bothered me though I thought about upgrading my RAM from 8gb to 16gb for a bit future proofing which makes the whole thing troublesome as it means with only two slots I have to throw my existing 2x4gb sticks out of the window, doubling the cost :/
I read of one case where a ASRock Extreme 4 owner fixed the same problem with a magnifier set and a mechanical pencil, locating the problematic pins and straighten them but I'm afraid to break my board in the process which in turn means I have to spend even more money.
Quick background for those unaware, not sure how it is nowadays with Skylake and Haswell but from my googling it seems back in the Ivy Bridge days ASRock boards seems to suffer from a problem where one of the two RAM channels often wouldn't work at all due to fragile pin-design on ASRock CPU sockets, effectively either bending 1-2 pins or simply not connecting them properly to the CPU.
Now my PC with a 3570k and a ASRock Z77 Pro 3 works rock-solid for two years so far but I have to run my memory in Single-Channel mode since my A1 and A2 slots are effectively dead. Whenever I put memory in either the system reboots over and over trying to detect the RAM only to fail each time. Putting both in B1 and B2 the system runs with no issues at all. I know Dual-Channel has hardly any noticeable real-world performance gain so it never bothered me though I thought about upgrading my RAM from 8gb to 16gb for a bit future proofing which makes the whole thing troublesome as it means with only two slots I have to throw my existing 2x4gb sticks out of the window, doubling the cost :/
I read of one case where a ASRock Extreme 4 owner fixed the same problem with a magnifier set and a mechanical pencil, locating the problematic pins and straighten them but I'm afraid to break my board in the process which in turn means I have to spend even more money.
StrangerInTheAlps
Member
Hey guys. I'm putting together a new system, but have run into a snag with the power supply. The 24 pin connector will not go in to the motherboard all the way no matter how hard I seem to try.
I'm using an Antec 550w power supply that cost me about $60, but I'm thinking to send it back and go for a modular power supply. I've also heard that Corsair power supplies sometimes have a similar problem. Could someone recommend me a reliable power supply for around $100? I suppose while I'm at it, I should probably get something with a little more juice?
Here's what I'm putting together:
ASUS H97 Pro MB
Core i7 4790 3.60ghz
AMD Radeon R9 380 4G
16 gb DDR3 ram
1TB WD HDD
120GB Sandisk SSD
I'm using an Antec 550w power supply that cost me about $60, but I'm thinking to send it back and go for a modular power supply. I've also heard that Corsair power supplies sometimes have a similar problem. Could someone recommend me a reliable power supply for around $100? I suppose while I'm at it, I should probably get something with a little more juice?
Here's what I'm putting together:
ASUS H97 Pro MB
Core i7 4790 3.60ghz
AMD Radeon R9 380 4G
16 gb DDR3 ram
1TB WD HDD
120GB Sandisk SSD
ãInaba Residentã
Banned
Ok, so, I'm building a new computer as the one I have is extremely old and outdated. I had someone on another site (r/buildapcforme) pick out parts for me according to my budget as I have no idea about computer specs and I've never put together a PC. I wanted to post the build here so I can get some additional opinions before I order the parts.
Budget:
- $650 to $700
Main Use:
- Playing mostly modern games. 720-1080p/60 fps on medium to high settings (Ex:Overwatch)
Overclocking:
- No overclocking
CPU:
- Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor $180.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard:
- ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard $89.66 @ Newegg
Memory:
- Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory $34.99 @ Newegg
Storage:
- Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $47.99 @ Amazon
Video Card:
- XFX Radeon R9 380 2GB Double Dissipation Video Card $172.99 @ Newegg
Case:
- DIYPC Solo-T1-BK ATX Mid Tower Case $29.89 @ Newegg
Power Supply:
- EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $49.99 @ Amazon
Operating System:
- Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) $92.99 @ Directron
Budget:
- $650 to $700
Main Use:
- Playing mostly modern games. 720-1080p/60 fps on medium to high settings (Ex:Overwatch)
Overclocking:
- No overclocking
CPU:
- Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor $180.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard:
- ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard $89.66 @ Newegg
Memory:
- Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory $34.99 @ Newegg
Storage:
- Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $47.99 @ Amazon
Video Card:
- XFX Radeon R9 380 2GB Double Dissipation Video Card $172.99 @ Newegg
Case:
- DIYPC Solo-T1-BK ATX Mid Tower Case $29.89 @ Newegg
Power Supply:
- EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $49.99 @ Amazon
Operating System:
- Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) $92.99 @ Directron
opticalmace
Member
You'd probably run into VRAM limitations with a 970 SLI setup. Nothing will run ultra in heavy games at that res AFAIK, particularly if it's a higher refresh rate monitor. The closest is the 980 Ti, which can probably do well if you drop the settings some.
Either go 980 Ti or hold out for the 1080 Ti imho, depending on your needs.
『Inaba Resident』;188694035 said:
Not bad, but there's room for improvement. Here's what I recommend.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($174.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($50.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Pareema 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card ($193.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $665.67
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-10 12:00 EST-0500
Same processor, cheaper but still adequate motherboard, graphics card with more VRAM (recommended for 1080p and longevity), and a lower capacity but still adequate power supply. Also included Windows 10 over 8.1 because it's slightly cheaper. Basically, what I did was I cut costs elsewhere to ensure you could fit a graphics card with 4GB VRAM into your budget. Games at 1080p and relatively high settings nowadays can take up to 2GB VRAM or even more (like Assassin's Creed Syndicate according to the Nvidia graphics settings optimization guide) so I'd definitely recommend it over a graphics card with just 2GB of VRAM. Also, my parts list comes in at about $705 before rebates, I'm sure the parts list you were recommended comes in at $700 after rebates.
I wouldn't recommend it on a 600 watt PSU, so if you do go with SLI you'll need to upgrade your PSU as well. It may be possible to run it anyway, but you'd be cutting it close to your PSU's limits. A single GTX 970 draws somewhere less than 200 watts each, but you'll also have to account for whatever the rest of your PC specs and power consumption would be.
Terbinator
Member
Thought I'd drop in and let everyone know my issues with the onboard Wifi with the Asus Z170i (ITX) *appear* to have gone after updating to the latest BIOS.
100% and 300MBps connection over 5GHz (N66U in same room) even without the antenna plugged in.
Edit: There is a new adapter driver out too so I'm not sure if its the driver, BIOS, or both which has sorted it.
100% and 300MBps connection over 5GHz (N66U in same room) even without the antenna plugged in.
Edit: There is a new adapter driver out too so I'm not sure if its the driver, BIOS, or both which has sorted it.
You don't really need that much more wattage or to spend that much, but if you wanted to spend around $100, I'd recommend the EVGA Supernova G2 750 watt model for $90.
If the problem really is the RAM contact pins becoming deformed and moving out of place, I highly doubt the motherboard can recover by itself. In either case, you'd be trying to repair the RAM slots that you already can't use, right? There's no harm in trying to fix it if you're worried about damaging the RAM slots that are already unusable.
Skyfireblaze
Member
Oh no no you got me wrong I should have clarified that better! The problem doesn't stem from the RAM slots being faulty, the problem is 1-2 pins between the mainboard and the CPU not connecting properly. It doesn't hinder the CPU from functioning correctly but it does hinder the CPU talking to either the A or B RAM channel on ASRock Ivy Bridge boards :/ I would need to take my CPU out of the socket and look for faulty pins there.
ãInaba Residentã
Banned
Thanks for replying. This build seems to be better cost wise which is good. Would it be possible to switch out Windows 10 for 7?
Also, does anyone else have any opinions regarding the build? Just really want to make the computer I build is good for my budget.
Scary problem, I never even knew about this. I have the same setup as you with no issues as I have all 4 RAM slots occupied and everything has worked solid day 1. Unlucky.
Oh sorry. Still tired in the morning after running to work. Yeah, I misread that. In that case, I still don't think the motherboard would be capable of recovering by itself. In that case, it's up to you whether you want to attempt it.
『Inaba Resident』;188708573 said:
Is there a reason you prefer 7 and 8.1 instead of Windows 10? You could go with Windows 7 if you really wanted to, but it's not that good of an idea for a few reasons. Windows 7 is getting expensive because it's in the process of being discontinued by Microsoft. Sales are being stopped, so retailers are jacking up the price on what remaining stock they have. The 64 bit home edition is the cheapest one listed at $100. Also, Windows 7 will be losing support. It's not certain and seems unlikely that DX12 will be officially supported by Windows 7 and 8.1, it appears that Microsoft is heavily promoting DX12 as a feature of Windows 10.
The Lamonster
Member
I put a blu ray optical drive in my PC but most BRDs I try to play are encrypted, which is totally ridiculous. I paid for the damn drive, I paid for the movies, yet I cannot play them.
Am I doing something wrong? How can I watch blu rays though my PC?
Am I doing something wrong? How can I watch blu rays though my PC?
The Lamonster
Member
Ah okay, thanks. Anybody have any experiences with these and want to make a recommendation?
edit: so I already have VLC. Based on the comments in this article, I'm still going to run into the same DRM problem using a paid player...I really don't understand why there is DRM on these when I paid for every component of the experience. Really pushes one toward just pirating movies.
What error are you getting exactly?
ãInaba Residentã
Banned
No real reason. I've just been using it for a while and I've gotten really comfortable with it. However, if Windows 7 is getting expensive and its losing support, I don't mind adapting to 10.
The Lamonster
Member
I'm at work right now but I tried to watch Star Wars in VLC and getting something about BD+ encryption.
That might just be because VLC doesn't handle blu-ray decryption and playback easily by itself. I'm sure you could get a trial of one of the blu-ray player programs from the link I gave you, try that out later.
StarlordDial
Member
anyone out here can recommend me a g great headset?
currently using this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826249043
SteelSeries Siberia V2 3.5mm Connector Circumaural Full-size Headset - Red
bang for the buck, best one, comfortable and etc
whatever is the best value out there
currently using this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826249043
SteelSeries Siberia V2 3.5mm Connector Circumaural Full-size Headset - Red
bang for the buck, best one, comfortable and etc
whatever is the best value out there
Zack Zavage
Member
What do you guys think about an used Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 WindForce 3X OC Rev. 2.0 for 200€?
My pal is selling his one since he got himself a Fury some months ago. He ran it as SLI with another identical model. It's from 2013 and he overclocked it, but he's claiming the card hasn't been damaged. He water cooled it and the gpu temperature never exceeded 35°C. I trust him on those numbers, but I still take it with a grain of salt. I heard from other people that OC does always damage the hardware to some degree reducing its lifetime, even with sufficient cooling, but he seems to know his stuff and is enthusiastically doing OC for about 2 years now. Building his own water cooling systems and stuff.
He did generously borrow the card to me for 3 weeks, so I could test it out. It worked very well in my system, even though I built my pc for everything but gaming in 2012.
Aliasing is no priority to me, but I'd like to achieve a solid 1080p@60fps for current games, preferably on high settings (not ultra). The fps are actually the main reason why I decided to move from PS4 to PC for multiplats. I'm also a big fan of the Dolphin emulator but my aforementioned needs do already cover this.
My current rig:
CPU: Intel Xeon Processor E3-1245 v2 @3.4 GHz
RAM: 8 GB DDR3
PSU: 480W Gold bequiet!
mobo: GigaByte H77-D3H
No dedicated video card. No intend to OC except if my current setup can handle it.
Gtx 970 seems to be an alternative, but I'd prefer to keep my budget under 300€.
I'd just like to hear PC-GAF's opinion about this matter, before I accept the deal.
Maybe you guys can recommend me some alternative video cards.
I appreciate any advice.
My pal is selling his one since he got himself a Fury some months ago. He ran it as SLI with another identical model. It's from 2013 and he overclocked it, but he's claiming the card hasn't been damaged. He water cooled it and the gpu temperature never exceeded 35°C. I trust him on those numbers, but I still take it with a grain of salt. I heard from other people that OC does always damage the hardware to some degree reducing its lifetime, even with sufficient cooling, but he seems to know his stuff and is enthusiastically doing OC for about 2 years now. Building his own water cooling systems and stuff.
He did generously borrow the card to me for 3 weeks, so I could test it out. It worked very well in my system, even though I built my pc for everything but gaming in 2012.
Aliasing is no priority to me, but I'd like to achieve a solid 1080p@60fps for current games, preferably on high settings (not ultra). The fps are actually the main reason why I decided to move from PS4 to PC for multiplats. I'm also a big fan of the Dolphin emulator but my aforementioned needs do already cover this.
My current rig:
CPU: Intel Xeon Processor E3-1245 v2 @3.4 GHz
RAM: 8 GB DDR3
PSU: 480W Gold bequiet!
mobo: GigaByte H77-D3H
No dedicated video card. No intend to OC except if my current setup can handle it.
Gtx 970 seems to be an alternative, but I'd prefer to keep my budget under 300€.
I'd just like to hear PC-GAF's opinion about this matter, before I accept the deal.
Maybe you guys can recommend me some alternative video cards.
I appreciate any advice.
OC'ing only really hurts your card if the clocks are either stupid high (likely unstable, thus unlikely) or you crank up the voltage to achieve said clocks. A ~50Mhz OC with stock voltage is not going to "hurt" your card in any perceivable way as long as the card was kept within its normal operating temps.
There have been some issues with Keplar based cards with certain games (The Witcher 3 IIRC). Basically Nvidia is dropping "support". I assume you are waiting for Pascal like everyone else? Honestly, I would just go with the 970. Try to find one used or on sale.
Hasphat'sAnts
Member
Hey guy. Running into a weird issue. Has anyone ever had trouble with restarting? The computer boots/starts just fine, but whenever you click restart in Windows, it just shuts down and doesn't automatically boot up again?
Giriath_89
Member
Sigh. So I was doing folding today and thought I'd lower my OC voltage. I reboot and try to enter BIOS, but instead get an attempt to load the backup BIOS. I can boot into Windows just fine, where everything is running, but I can't do anything in BIOS.
I remove the side panel and find I've had what seems to be a small watercooling leakage, just a few drops on the GPU. That's alarming, but I figure I'll remove the GPU, wipe that shit off and then fix the BIOS and stress test to see the extent and source of the leakage.
So I reset BIOS with the pins, and suddenly I can't even boot into Windows because the "boot device is inaccesible". I try to switch to the main BIOS, but still get the backup so probably the main somehow died.
Last I tried to Q-flash to update the BIOS, but even though it (sometimes) loads the options I can't select anything anywhere in the BIOS. It's frozen.
So what is bust (CPU, Mobo?) and what can I do about it except buy new stuff?
I remove the side panel and find I've had what seems to be a small watercooling leakage, just a few drops on the GPU. That's alarming, but I figure I'll remove the GPU, wipe that shit off and then fix the BIOS and stress test to see the extent and source of the leakage.
So I reset BIOS with the pins, and suddenly I can't even boot into Windows because the "boot device is inaccesible". I try to switch to the main BIOS, but still get the backup so probably the main somehow died.
Last I tried to Q-flash to update the BIOS, but even though it (sometimes) loads the options I can't select anything anywhere in the BIOS. It's frozen.
So what is bust (CPU, Mobo?) and what can I do about it except buy new stuff?
There shouldn't be much lag at all introduced since it's not doing any processing, just separates/copies audio and passes video. I have all my gear hooked up through a Yamaha RX A1010.
StarlordDial
Member
Scratch that, anyone know a good replacement extension for my
SteelSeries Siberia V2 3.5mm Connector Circumaural Full-size Headset - Red
I mistakenly overextended the audio cord although the mic connector is still great but the audio is not working anymore it seems like
SteelSeries Siberia V2 3.5mm Connector Circumaural Full-size Headset - Red
I mistakenly overextended the audio cord although the mic connector is still great but the audio is not working anymore it seems like
『Inaba Resident』;188725256 said:
Windows 7 isn't losing support any time soon. DX12 might be out soon and that won't work on 7. All 7 licenses within a year of Win 10's release are eligible for a free upgrade to 10. I still like 7 better than 10, mostly from a UI point of view, 10 is inconsistent as hell.
Giriath_89
Member
BIOS is responsive now, but I still can't boot Windows. Guess I'll reinstall...
Did you reselect the correct drive as the boot drive? Since you were messing around with the bios, it may have changed.
What brand and model of power supply do you have?
Seems like the point of failure is the motherboard, or something related to it. What rae your system specs? Does your motherboard have a switch to trigger which BIOS is loaded?
If the pins aren't noticeably bent with naked eye it can be harder, but usually to not actually contact the CPU pads it would have to be noticeable, since the CPU is pressed into the socket. So if it's easy to spot then it's just a matter of using something sharp until the pin looks to not be out of place. Not so difficult, I usually push the pins gently with something sharp like a needle or whatever I can find that can target a single pin. Then once it's close to being in pattern with the rest, a bit of flicking with something sharp will get it upright and into position. It doesn't need to be exact, just close. Be patient and a steady hand is needed.
Again only try if it's obvious that the pin is bent. Very weird issue really.
Did you install the motherboard standoff screws? They sit between the board and the case.
Giriath_89
Member
I did. I've done some system restore attempts too, but they don't work.
CharpyImpact
Member
I just RMAed my 7970 and gigabyte doesn't have a 1 to 1 trade-in for the 7970. They are offering me a 280X in exchange. Is this the best call? It looks like I could potentially ask for an upgrade if I give them a bit of money. Is there a point to that or should I just stick with the 280X until HDM2?
opticalmace
Member
Ask what the upgrade options are. I'd be looking at the 390 if you could swing it for a reasonable price...
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