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[Cruz]

Any help or suggest what to change , add or get rid of.
Trying to stay around 2,500 but will go to 3,000 if its worth it. Going to go video editing and high end gaming. Also want to future proof it too. As well spoil myself for a change.
Thank you for anyone helping out

 

[Chris R]

Video editing? Get a bigger hard drive. 500 GB + 1 TB won't cut it.

 

[Cruz]

well much smaller bits but in reality i just want to make sure everything else looks solid.

 

[jsrv]

So having seen that the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is still a massive pain in the ass to install (I was told it got easier compared to the older version), are there any other air cooler that's easier?

 

[RGM79]

Yeah I'm glad it wasn't the mainboard or CPU in the end! And okay glad to have some reassurance As for Crimson thanks for the info, this bug thankfully didn't affect me since my GPU fan is controlled by MSI Afterburner but I have installed the hotfix version anyway. I put the BF4 crash as a one off fluke, my GPU has a pretty hefty overclock (from 925mhz to 1110mhz core and 1375mhz memory to 1500mhz memory) but that was always 100% stable with my old PSU. I did put the additional power range at +20 in Crimson now though just as a precaution and haven't had any crashes so far.

Oh and a question, as far as I got it PC PSUs only produce the maximum wattage when absolutely needed right? So even though I have a 630w PSU now instead of a 550w one I shouldn't use more power since the components are absolutely the same and I doubt my PC comes anywhere near 600w power draw, right?

Yes, the PSU isn't drawing that much wattage from the wall all the time. It provides only as much wattage as the rest of your PC parts needs.

The number is kind of a best guess situation right now, haha. Im really bad for mail in rebates too, so they basically just dont exist to me! I have a copy of windows 7 (Which I turned into 10 on my current machine, I assume I can bring 10 over to my new PC?). I really like Memory Express, they have been good to me, and they are nice and close.

This is all super helpful, thank you very much. I can drop it down to a 6500 instead of the 6600k if thats the best option in the long run. I like Nvidia, I've only had one 3D card die on me, and it was a Radeon, so now I'm irrationally (haha) against using them again, plus all the geforce experience stuff is nice. I was thinking of sticking 16gb of RAM in there too, mostly just because its so cheap, so why not, haha. (plus Oculus says 8+, haha)

This was very helpful, thank you again.

No, that copy of Windows 10 is registered to the hardware on that PC, it cannot be transferred to a different PC. See here for more information.

If you intend to keep the PC for a long time, you may be better served by sticking with the i5 6600K like you originally wanted. The more performance you have, the longer it'll last before needing to be replaced/upgraded. Overclocking the CPU can help it stay useful longer as well, and although the limited ability to overclock the non-K CPUs is promising, there isn't widespread support and there are a lot of unknowns as of right now, so the i5 6600K is the more reliable option. Feel free to go with 16GB of RAM if you prefer.

Odd question. The PC I'm building is for my brother. He's still young. As far as O/S goes, I want to severely limit what he can do. Basically I don't want him to be able to go to Google chrome and start browsing away unrestricted. I want to block all browser options among other programs. The only thing I want him to be able to do is open steam and play installed games. I cannot confirm myself but does Windows 10 allow for this? Or should I install Steam OS instead of windows?

He's still too young for the internet, guys.

Take a look at the parental controls in Windows 10, there's a box you can check to only allow the child account to visit certain websites. I'm not sure if that option will block all websites if you don't list anything in the allowed websites section, but you could maybe just input one safe website you don't mind him going on. Otherwise, there are methods like a firewall or router settings to block all internet traffic to his PC except for steam.

 

[Sofa King]

Last time I built a computer the 760 seemed like the sweet spot for performance vs value. The 770 was more expensive but didn't offer much in the way of performance. Is this similar with 960 vs 970? Builds on the original post mostly show 970s.

 

[kennah]

Any help or suggest what to change , add or get rid of.
Trying to stay around 2,500 but will go to 3,000 if its worth it. Going to go video editing and high end gaming. Also want to future proof it too. As well spoil myself for a change.
Thank you for anyone helping out

What's the $130 in two year replacement and the $130 in BYO bundle? Between that stuff and the $130 to assemble, you're probably paying almost $400 that you don't have to.

If you're going that balls out, I'd go faster RAM, it's a small expense, might help with pep.

500 + 1TB is fine to start, you can always add more drives.

EDIT: Powersupply is super over kill for Single GPU as well. Hell it's even overkill for two GPUs. You could easily get by with a PSU for half the price with a 10 year warranty.

EDIT2: Oh shit, $60 in Anti virus? Totally unnecessary.

 

[RGM79]

is there a smaller cube type case with a handle that will take normal motherboards and components?

and i have no clue what to do for next gen monitor. i keep reading about freesync and gsync, is amd's path with the next directx the best route? i think i need more than 1080p and atleast 27"?

no budget, just want to make the right choices.

Bitfenix Prodigy and Prodigy M. Corsair Graphite 380T. Silverstone ML08 and SG12.

Alternatively you could go with any case that meets your needs but get cloth carrying straps. GearGrip is a product marketed specifically for that purpose, but I wonder if you can't simply find multipurpose carrying handle straps that are similar.

Wanted a quick once over from you gents on this build:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/PDcthM it was largely based on Haz's Skylake LGA1151 build.

I've been out of PC Gaming since Q3A, so yeah, long time.

The excuse I'm using to justify this build is the new Doom coming out - but of course it's to enjoy a variety of games that I've been wish listing on steam for too long & ones that I've half enjoyed on consoles that I'd like to have real control of. I've been slowly saving for a while and I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger. Was hoping for some advice on a couple of points:

1) Liquid cooling VS fan? I don't plan on overclocking and as of now I've spec'd a Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler which I'm pretty sure is compatible with the Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case. Don't really care too much about the sound either way - just want something that performs and will fit in that case without too much hassle on the install. Any strong opinions on this?

2) Video card choice for max frames in FPS games - I went with MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card, but I admittedly know squat about graphics cards. Any strong supporters / opposition on this card VS. say it's ATI equivalent or Nvidia cousins?

3) i5 VS. i7? I went with the Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor but I'm open to choosing the i7, but I was wondering if the i7 would actually be a significant upgrade over the i5 in terms of frames per second in FPS games?

4) Motherboard / Memory / Case - I went with Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard / G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory / Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case. Any glaring pitfalls here? Is it silly to choose a smaller case just because the design looks slick and it semi-resembles a storm trooperish? Give it to me straight.

5) Timing of purchase. I know that the second you buy anything, it's on it's exponentially way to becoming a tier down, but also I recognize that having somebody in the know in your corner can be invaluable as it can save you some cash & or help you pick a certain piece of hardware that will be valuable for longer based on knowledge of upcoming hardware. Just wanted to see if anybody had any tips or strong opinions on any piece in my build here that in the next few months might change in value enough where it'd be prudent to wait a bit.

You'll notice there's no monitor listed on the partpicker page - as of the other day I was planning on using a PSTV 24" 1080p screen for a monitor (as I already have a few of them lying around). Of course I've just recently realized how the PC I spec'd can do GSYNC and 4K and a lot of other potentially great things that the PSTV monitor couldn't even dream of. Eye balled the ASUS ROG Swift, but damn, that's a chunk of change. Think I'm going to start with this monitor and then maybe upgrade in the future, but I'm interested to know ya'll's opinions on the import of if my PSTV will be robbing me of the new build's potential, or if it'll be just fine?

Sorry for the long post & thanks in advance for your time and info as I respect all of your opinions!

Your build looks fine to me, they're excellent parts and there's nothing wrong with them at all. However..

1. The Corsair H105 is grossly overkill if you never plan to overclock. You could have gone with a less expensive processor and motherboard as well to save money.

2. The GTX 980 Ti is pretty much the best graphics card on the market in terms of performance. There's really no other choice if you're looking for "maximum framerate". The only place to go from there is to get a second identical card or wait for even better graphics cards in the future.

3. That will depend on the game itself, how well it was coded and optimized. In some games there will be little to no difference, while others can see as much as maybe a 20% improvement in framerate.

4. According to Newegg user reviews, the Z170-A has numerous complaints about some common flaws like the BIOS and motherboard socket design. Other than that, it should be alright. I'm not sure what you mean by you "choosing a smaller case"? The Air 540 isn't exactly small, just shorter but wider than a typical tower case.

5. Your build is fine in terms of performance and potential longevity. I might have done something different with $1700 to spend though, I'm more of a cost-to-performance and minmaxing kind of guy when it comes to parts lists. Doesn't mean your choices are wrong, you chose what you want because you want it, and you seem to have done your research.

6. As for the monitor, you are missing out on some nice things, but if you'll be playing at 1080p, your processor and graphics card will be quite strong and deliver very high framerates for most if not all games at relatively high settings. Of course, your mileage will vary with different games and graphics settings.

ok I am updating my sons PC and I have a question...

He is currently using a pc with windows 7 on it. I built him a new PC and I want to use the same windows 7 key. If I update the new PC with the original windows 7 key and immediately update to windows 10 from that, will his original windows 7 key still be valid on the old pc?

The reason I ask is I dont want him to NOT have his old PC from now until xmas. I am giving him his new one on christmas.

thanks!

No. Upgrading to Windows 10 does not give you a free extra license of Windows. It quite literally converts your existing Windows 7/8/8.1 license into a Windows 10 license.

Figured it was time to get my desktop up to Windows 10.

Can I use a DVD someone else has made of the installation media for a clean install or do I need to download it and create it on my own machine?

You can use that DVD, there shouldn't be any problems. Do you already have a Windows 10 license key?

So having seen that the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is still a massive pain in the ass to install (I was told it got easier compared to the older version), are there any other air cooler that's easier?

What country are you in and what's your budget for a CPU cooler? Noctua, Phanteks, and Cryorig usually have fairly easy mounting systems.

Last time I built a computer the 760 seemed like the sweet spot for performance vs value. The 770 was more expensive but didn't offer much in the way of performance. Is this similar with 960 vs 970? Builds on the original post mostly show 970s.

Nope, it's a whole new ball game. The GTX 970 is definitely preferable if you have the money for it. The GTX 970's level of performance will allow you to comfortably reach 60FPS in many of the latest games at relatively high settings (varies according to the game of course) while the GTX 960 might not be capable of that without lowering some settings. You can see a general comparison here.

Buy according to your budget - there's nothing wrong with a GTX 960 if it meets your needs, but the GTX 970 is overall a better choice if you have the money for it.

 

[opticalmace]

Last time I built a computer the 760 seemed like the sweet spot for performance vs value. The 770 was more expensive but didn't offer much in the way of performance. Is this similar with 960 vs 970? Builds on the original post mostly show 970s.

They actually have very similar performance/dollar numbers, but they are in different classes.

If you can squeeze it I would definitely go for the 970.

 

[solid mike]

Hello again I Need a New PC GAF!

I just got gifted an internal storage HDD (WD 1TB Caviar Blue). Right now, I have not put it in my case and so all my files are in my SSD.

If I place the HDD right now and boot up the PC, is the matter of moving files from SSD to HDD as easy as dragging and dropping/cutting and pasting files from SSD to HDD?

 

[longdi]

Any help or suggest what to change , add or get rid of.
Trying to stay around 2,500 but will go to 3,000 if its worth it. Going to go video editing and high end gaming. Also want to future proof it too. As well spoil myself for a change.
Thank you for anyone helping out

Price for assembly and such seems a huge ripoff! Better get from another supplier if this is what was quoted to you...scummy stuffs.

Some things i would change...
Asus X99Pro to Asus X99S, if it is available. X99S is basically X99 Deluxe without the wireless hardware, it has more robust power components and audio.
4x8GB DDR4 2400 ram for video editing. No need faster than 2400 because X99 will struggle beyond 2400. Get 32GB now and forget about it till your next upgrade.
Remember to get a heatsink because 5820K do not come with one.
Get a blueray writer instead of dvdrw, for a few dollars more.
I would change ESET for Malwarebytes.

 

[kuYuri]

Any help or suggest what to change , add or get rid of.
Trying to stay around 2,500 but will go to 3,000 if its worth it. Going to go video editing and high end gaming. Also want to future proof it too. As well spoil myself for a change.
Thank you for anyone helping out

What's the $130 in two year replacement and the $130 in BYO bundle? Between that stuff and the $130 to assemble, you're probably paying almost $400 that you don't have to.

If you're going that balls out, I'd go faster RAM, it's a small expense, might help with pep.

500 + 1TB is fine to start, you can always add more drives.

EDIT: Powersupply is super over kill for Single GPU as well. Hell it's even overkill for two GPUs. You could easily get by with a PSU for half the price with a 10 year warranty.

EDIT2: Oh shit, $60 in Anti virus? Totally unnecessary.

That looks like a Micro Center quote. Those replacement plans are for when if any components fail, MC will replace it for you rather than having to RMA the parts to the manufacturer. I guess it's nice to have for the convenience, but eh.

The assembly fee is a complete rip off though, better to just build it yourself or ask someone who's good with computers for help.

I would recommend 32GB (4x8GB) as well if you really want to future proof yourself.

 

[BIGWORM]

$130 to put that together! Sounds like Geek Squad lol (I used to be a Repair Agent).

On-topic with my problem: it's no dice for my Crucial 16GB kit. Flashed a beta F3C BIOS and still no go with the modules. Gonna try to sell them locally for what I paid for them.

 

[opticalmace]

$130 to put that together! Sounds like Geek Squad lol (I used to be a Repair Agent).

On-topic with my problem: it's no dice for my Crucial 16GB kit. Flashed a beta F3C BIOS and still no go with the modules. Gonna try to sell them locally for what I paid for them.

That's too bad. Why not try to RMA them?

 

[jsrv]

What country are you in and what's your budget for a CPU cooler? Noctua, Phanteks, and Cryorig usually have fairly easy mounting systems.

I just looked up some Phanteks ones (never even heard of them before) and I think I'll go with them next time. I was kind of hoping the price would be around the same as the cooler master one, but to be honest if it means being easier to install than that nightmare then I don't mind paying more

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...5709018&cm_re=phanteks-_-35-709-018-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...5709038&cm_re=phanteks-_-35-709-038-_-Product

Probably one of these

 

[RGM79]

I just looked up some Phanteks ones (never even heard of them before) and I think I'll go with them next time. I was kind of hoping the price would be around the same as the cooler master one, but to be honest if it means being easier to install than that nightmare then I don't mind paying more

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...5709018&cm_re=phanteks-_-35-709-018-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...5709038&cm_re=phanteks-_-35-709-038-_-Product

Probably one of these

Phanteks is better known for their cases, but their CPU coolers are good as well. Their flagship PH-TC14PE trades blows with the much better known Noctua NH-D14 and NH-D15 coolers yet it usually costs around $65 at the cheapest and come in a variety of colors compared to Noctua's flagship models which tend to cost $80 and very often above that.

If you want to spend a little less, Cryorig is very nice. The Cryorig H5 and H7 models are still a bit pricier than the 212 Evo but are very compact yet have a superior mounting system when it comes to ease of installation and RAM compatibility. The difference between the H5 Universal and H5 Ultimate model is the thickness of the fan, the Universal model has a thinner fan that won't interfere with RAM modules. The H5 Universal according to TechPowerUp offers cooling performance in between the CM 212 Evo and the Noctua NH-D15, which is pretty good for the price.

 

[Pittst0p]

Does the extra 2GB (compared to the gtx 980ti) on the R9 390x make a significant difference. Does it extend the "relevancy" of the card?

I currently have a 2GB 6950 and I would prefer to make a decision that not only helps immediately but is still relevant a few years down the road.

 

[RGM79]

Does the extra 2GB (compared to the gtx 980ti) on the R9 390x make a significant difference. Does it extend the "relevancy" of the card?

I currently have a 2GB 6950 and I would prefer to make a decision that not only helps immediately but is still relevant a few years down the road.

It currently does not make a significant difference. Time will only tell if games in the future will require that much VRAM. So far gaming at 4K doesn't require 8GB of VRAM and a single R9 390X isn't exactly capable enough for 4K gaming anyway.

If the benefits of DX12 will actually come through, then multi-GPU will become more useful, as GPUs can pool their VRAM together. Adding a second graphics card would also increase available VRAM as well as performance, making it a more attractive option.

 

[Tesseract]

best $100 LGA1150 Intel Z97 mobo?

why are all asrock mobos reviewed lowly, but recommended on gaf?

 

[BossDarkseid]

Another day another problem.

Turned on PC this morning, still hangs on the Asus screen. Pressing Esc/Del etc to try and get into bios does nothing.
The LED code is Ad which apparently means Ready to Boot but...yesterday when it hanged on Asus screen I was advised to take he CMOS battery out for a bit then pop it in and that worked for then but....if it's happening again does that give any idea of what the problem could be?

Edit: taken the cmos battery out, leaving it for a bit but beforehand. Was able to get into the BIOS but after that it still either hangs or says preparing automatic repair but doing nothing. I occasionally get different error codes on the Mobo's led so my (not very) educated guess is at unless overnight it did something to itself there's either a Mobo or Windows problem.

 

[e90Mark]

So having seen that the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is still a massive pain in the ass to install (I was told it got easier compared to the older version), are there any other air cooler that's easier?

What do you find challenging about the install?

I just did it for the first time with the mobo in case and wouldn't say it's a massive pain to install.

 

[RGM79]

best $100 LGA1150 Intel Z97 mobo?

why are all asrock mobos reviewed lowly, but recommended on gaf?

You're making broad generalizations. Quite a lot of ASRock motherboards have favorable reviews. Average scores of 4/5 stars aren't bad, just avoid the ones at 3/5 stars or lower.

Do you count rebates toward the $100 price limit? Are you okay with going slightly over the $100 price limit? If you absolutely must spend under $100, then go with the MSI Z97 PC Mate ($78 after $10 rebate). It has a 4/5 rating on Newegg after 120 reviews and a rating of 4.4/5 on Amazon after 101 reviews. Otherwise if rebates count, then consider the slightly higher end ASRock Fatal1ty Z97 Killer ($93 after $20 rebate). It has a rating of 4/5 stars after 117 reviews on Newegg and more five star and fewer one star reviews than the MSI model.

 

[LilJoka]

Another day another problem.

Turned on PC this morning, still hangs on the Asus screen. Pressing Esc/Del etc to try and get into bios does nothing.
The LED code is Ad which apparently means Ready to Boot but...yesterday when it hanged on Asus screen I was advised to take he CMOS battery out for a bit then pop it in and that worked for then but....if it's happening again does that give any idea of what the problem could be?

Edit: taken the cmos battery out, leaving it for a bit but beforehand. Was able to get into the BIOS but after that it still either hangs or says preparing automatic repair but doing nothing. I occasionally get different error codes on the Mobo's led so my (not very) educated guess is at unless overnight it did something to itself there's either a Mobo or Windows problem.

Unplug all usb peripherals except keyboard and mouse and see how it goes.
Make sure it's trying to boot the HDD first and not Optical or USB.

When you say preparing automatic repair, you are talking about windows?

 

[BossDarkseid]

Unplug all usb peripherals except keyboard and mouse and see how it goes.
Make sure it's trying to boot the HDD first and not Optical or USB.

When you say preparing automatic repair, you are talking about windows?

Yes, it's Windows, but it never actually seems to do anything. I leave it alone for a while and it still says the same message. In the bios it's going SSD (OS) > HDD and that's it.

 

[luffeN]

Your Current Specs: i5-2500K / 8 GB DDR3 / MSI 65 something / Asus Strix GTX 970 / Old PSU / Fractal Define XL / OCZ Vertex 3 + 1 TB HDD
Budget: 1.000 Euro Austria/Germany
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Gaming, general usage and work are all important. I work as an independent translator.
Monitor Resolution: Currently playing at 1080p with a Benq XL2411T at 120Hz. I may want to upgrade to a 4K monitor that has at least 100Hz sometime later (depending on the launch of Pascal or DP 1.3 cards).
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Rocket League, The Division, Lost Ark, Paragon at 60 high settings (no downsampling etc. really necessary), CS:GO and Overwatch as high as possible.
Looking to reuse any parts?: I want to reuse the 970 until Pascal arrives and my Fractal Define XL.
When will you build?: Last two weeks of January.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes (if there is a motherboard button like I have on my MSI 65 mobo, that would be great. Otherwise may also try manual overclocking.)

I don't know if this is really smart, but looking at http://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html I want the new CPU to be well above the i5-2500K. I can see that the i7-4790K is well above, but that is probably because i7 vs. i5. An i5-6600K does not have as many benchmark points, so not sure what to think about that. I just wanted to throw that in!

Generally there is the question then do I build a Skylake PC or Devil's Canyon?

Thinking about storage, I would want to use a Samsung 850 Evo 512GB and a WD Red 1TB.

As for the Fractal Define XL, I may want to swap the standard fans that come with the case with even better ones.

I already have a Windows 10 license.

I probably forgot something, but that's it currently. Thanks all in advance.

Anyone?

 

[JMTHEFOX]

The price of the Team Vulcan was removed so I had to go with G.Skill Value RAM instead.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4160 3.6GHz Dual-Core Processor ($114.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock H81M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($58.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Value Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 950 2GB Superclocked Video Card ($149.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Silverstone ML07B HTPC Case ($67.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Silverstone 450W 80+ Bronze Certified SFX Power Supply ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Wireless Network Adapter: Belkin F9L1001 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($5.99 @ Micro Center)
Keyboard: Logitech K400 Wireless Slim Keyboard w/Touchpad ($29.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $572.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-13 05:58 EST-0500

 

[knitoe]

Another day another problem.

Turned on PC this morning, still hangs on the Asus screen. Pressing Esc/Del etc to try and get into bios does nothing.
The LED code is Ad which apparently means Ready to Boot but...yesterday when it hanged on Asus screen I was advised to take he CMOS battery out for a bit then pop it in and that worked for then but....if it's happening again does that give any idea of what the problem could be?

Edit: taken the cmos battery out, leaving it for a bit but beforehand. Was able to get into the BIOS but after that it still either hangs or says preparing automatic repair but doing nothing. I occasionally get different error codes on the Mobo's led so my (not very) educated guess is at unless overnight it did something to itself there's either a Mobo or Windows problem.

Are you using XMP ram profile? If yes, I had the random hanging boot / Windows problem until later bios update fix it. There should be a button to reset the bios. The , go into the bios and test. Try setting ram profile as "manual," blk = 100, ram speed = memory speed, save and restart.

 

[BossDarkseid]

Are you using XMP ram profile? If yes, I had the random hanging boot / Windows problem until later bios update fix it. There should be a button to reset the bios. The , go into the bios and test. Try setting ram profile as "manual," blk = 100, ram speed = memory speed, save and restart.

I will give that a go later on, cheers

Edit: Just gone into BiOs. Xmp is disabled at the moment.

This may be a dumb question but could the hangs be because it expects Xmp but it's disabled?
Because after exiting bios it hangs again. So weird

 

[knitoe]

I will give that a go later on, cheers

Edit: Just gone into BiOs. Xmp is disabled at the moment.

This may be a dumb question but could the hangs be because it expects Xmp but it's disabled?
Because after exiting bios it hangs again. So weird

Enabling XMP sets ram timing, speeds, blk and etc. automatic for you, but sometimes it's not stable. Try the safe ram settings I posted before.

 

[BossDarkseid]

Enabling XMP sets ram timing, speeds, blk and etc. automatic for you, but sometimes it's not stable. Try the safe ram settings I posted before.

Tried. No luck. Still hangs on Asus, seems the only thing that lets me get through to Windows is removing cmos battery for a bit.

 

[opticalmace]

Tried. No luck. Still hangs on Asus, seems the only thing that lets me get through to Windows is removing cmos battery for a bit.

Weird. You're not overclocking now are you?

 

[knitoe]

Tried. No luck. Still hangs on Asus, seems the only thing that lets me get through to Windows is removing cmos battery for a bit.

Can you take pics and show your bios settings under AI Tweaker, cpu and ram overclocking, section?

 

[BossDarkseid]

Weird. You're not overclocking now are you?

I am not. I mean ideally, yes, but nothing is set to oC atm until I can boot reliably.

Can you take pics and show your bios settings under AI Tweaker, cpu and ram overclocking, section?

I will try. Might take a few mins because I'll have to do everything on my phone, unless it decides to boot normally.

 

[Skyfireblaze]

Yes, the PSU isn't drawing that much wattage from the wall all the time. It provides only as much wattage as the rest of your PC parts needs.

Okay so it's as I always thought, thanks!

 

[BossDarkseid]

Ok i've popped em on GoolgeDrive and the link is https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7OoLfY054mUUHhoUUV6Z0V5MEE&usp=sharing

Even if I quote them on here they still look massive. Let me know if there's a problem. I tried to take a pic of everything that looke dDIMM/RAM/CPU related. I find the BIOS a little bewildering though.

HOWEVER!

Slightly weird but it worked normally (to Win 10) after exiting the Bios that time...and the ram BLK(?) is set to 100 etc (you should be able to see in a pic)...which is good because yay it works (for now) but I also want to know why it went wrong in the first place and if I can get back to my OC'd state

Edit: I am also fully prepared for someone to point out my idiocy and some setting that I've glossed over is wrong. Although apart from that ram thing i haven't changed any setting in the bios.

 

[Skyfireblaze]

Ok i've popped em on GoolgeDrive and the link is https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7OoLfY054mUUHhoUUV6Z0V5MEE&usp=sharing

Even if I quote them on here they still look massive. Let me know if there's a problem. I tried to take a pic of everything that looke dDIMM/RAM/CPU related. I find the BIOS a little bewildering though.

HOWEVER!

Slightly weird but it worked normally (to Win 10) after exiting the Bios that time...and the ram BLK(?) is set to 100 etc (you should be able to see in a pic)...which is good because yay it works (for now) but I also want to know why it went wrong in the first place and if I can get back to my OC'd state

Edit: I am also fully prepared for someone to point out my idiocy and some setting that I've glossed over is wrong. Although apart from that ram thing i haven't changed any setting in the bios.

I can't see anything off in your settings at a quick glance :/ But your CPU is idling at 26°C?! I really mounted my TX3 Evo cooler wrong, huh?

 

[BossDarkseid]

I can't see anything off in your settings at a quick glance :/ But your CPU is idling at 26°C?! I really mounted my TX3 Evo cooler wrong, huh?

They put in an Asetek 360mm(I think, it's def Asetek at least) so...I don't know

Atm I have Chrome, Steam + Battle.net open, not much else (no games running) and SpeedFan for example says gpu 49c, system 26c, cpu 25c etc.

 

[knitoe]

Ok i've popped em on GoolgeDrive and the link is https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7OoLfY054mUUHhoUUV6Z0V5MEE&usp=sharing

Even if I quote them on here they still look massive. Let me know if there's a problem. I tried to take a pic of everything that looke dDIMM/RAM/CPU related. I find the BIOS a little bewildering though.

HOWEVER!

Slightly weird but it worked normally (to Win 10) after exiting the Bios that time...and the ram BLK(?) is set to 100 etc (you should be able to see in a pic)...which is good because yay it works (for now) but I also want to know why it went wrong in the first place and if I can get back to my OC'd state

Edit: I am also fully prepared for someone to point out my idiocy and some setting that I've glossed over is wrong. Although apart from that ram thing i haven't changed any setting in the bios.

In AI Tweaker, try setting AI Overclock Tuner = "Manual" then BLK frequency = 100 and DRAM frequency = what speed your ram is rated to run at. And, I can't see what's below "CPU System Agent Offset Mode Sign".

 

[BossDarkseid]

In AI Tweaker, try setting AI Overclock Tuner = "Manual" then BLK frequency = 100 and DRAM frequency = what speed your ram is rated to run at. And, I can't see what's below "CPU System Agent Offset Mode Sign".

Ok I will try taking a couple more pics. I made the change you recommended and it booted to win 10 again so success! For now

Edit: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7OoLfY054mUWnVNb1ZHYjJqUWM&usp=sharing should be two new pics. Not sure if that's what you wanted in that regard but hopefully it helps? Sorry about the shine/glare, that's not even from normal light, just something my phoen seems to want to do.

 

[knitoe]

Ok I will try taking a couple more pics. I made the change you recommended and it booted to win 10 again so success! For now

Edit: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7OoLfY054mUWnVNb1ZHYjJqUWM&usp=sharing should be two new pics. Not sure if that's what you wanted in that regard but hopefully it helps? Sorry about the shine/glare, that's not even from normal light, just something my phoen seems to want to do.

Everything else looks fine. Play some stuff and see if those settings fixed your hanging issue. If it does, looks very similar to what happen with my X99 Deluxe where not setting manual blk = 100 cause system to hang randomly. It was only fixed many bios later. You can still overclock by changing the core ratio and core voltage.

 

[BossDarkseid]

Everything else looks fine. Play some stuff and see if those settings fixed your hanging issue. If it does, looks very similar to what happen with my X99 Deluxe where not setting manual blk = 100 cause system to hang randomly. It was only fixed many bios later. You can still overclock by changing the core ratio and core voltage.

Cheers. I'll probably do that (OCing, or at least start it somewhat) tomorrow. Got lots of little things on today but hey, I can boot reliably to Win 10 for now so that's a big step!

 

[Skyfireblaze]

They put in an Asetek 360mm(I think, it's def Asetek at least) so...I don't know

Atm I have Chrome, Steam + Battle.net open, not much else (no games running) and SpeedFan for example says gpu 49c, system 26c, cpu 25c etc.

Well okay I googled that and it's a liquid cooling solution, no wonder my puny TX3 can't hold against it

Cheers. I'll probably do that (OCing, or at least start it somewhat) tomorrow. Got lots of little things on today but hey, I can boot reliably to Win 10 for now so that's a big step!

And glad to hear!

 

[Athreous]

Ok guys, I ended up buying a i5 4690k, I just dunno what z97 model I should get...

Also, the g43 is cheaper than the g45...

The cheapest one is the ASrock and gigabyte models, but are they good?

 

[Euphor!a]

What is a good PSU calculator? I tried the MSI one it says 500~ and the newegg one said like 800+.

They both claimed this was the maximum wattage output of the components under full load...

So yeah, not sure who to believe.

 

[Skyfireblaze]

Ok guys, I ended up buying a i5 4690k, I just dunno what z97 model I should get...

Also, the g43 is cheaper than the g45...

The cheapest one is the ASrock and gigabyte models, but are they good?

ASRock is good for their price but they have their quirks, GIGABYTE is just great and reliable from my personal experience.

What is a good PSU calculator? I tried the MSI one it says 500~ and the newegg one said like 800+.

They both claimed this was the maximum wattage output of the components under full load...

So yeah, not sure who to believe.

Unless you want a system with two Titan's in SLI or something equally high-end there's no way a decent PC will draw anywhere near 800w, can you list your components?

 

[Euphor!a]

Unless you want a system with two Titan's in SLI or something equally high-end there's no way a decent PC will draw anywhere near 800w, can you list your components?

i5 6600k
2x8GB DDR4
GTX 970x2

Edit: I just did it again to check and it is saying it recommends a 812w PSU

 

[Skyfireblaze]

i5 6600k
2x8GB DDR4
GTX 970x2

Edit: I just did it again to check and it is saying it recommends a 812w PSU

Well from my quick and dirty manual calculation the two 970's draw 290w, the CPU about 80w, together with the rest of the components 650w or so should be more than enough but wait for someone else to confirm.

 

[MANGOD]

I've come accross these 2 systems that are around the same price. What is the better system?
4.0GHz Intel Core i7 4790K 4-Core CPU
ASRock Z97 Anniversary Motherboard
Nvidia GeForce GTX 970 4GB Graphics Card
Patriot Blast 120GB SSD
[AMD] 16GB Patriot 1600MHz DDR3
Vibox Predator Green Gaming Case
Antec H2O Kuhler 650 Liquid Cooling System
Vibox 600W 80Plus Certified PSU
24x DVD-RW Optical Drive

Or

4.5GHz Intel Core i5 6600K Quad Core CPU *Overclocked*
MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Motherboard
Nvidia GeForce GTX 960 Gaming 2G Graphics Card (MSI Gaming Edition)
Patriot Blast 240GB SSD
[INTEL] 8GB Patriot Viper Xtreme - 2800MHz DDR4
NZXT H440 Mid-Tower Case Black / Red
Corsair Hydro H75 Liquid CPU Cooler
SuperFlower FX 650w Bronze PSU
External USB DVD Drive

 

[Deleted member 98878]

System one

 

[Hey Im Patrick]

I've come accross these 2 systems that are around the same price. What is the better system?
4.0GHz Intel Core i7 4790K 4-Core CPU
ASRock Z97 Anniversary Motherboard
Nvidia GeForce GTX 970 4GB Graphics Card
Patriot Blast 120GB SSD
[AMD] 16GB Patriot 1600MHz DDR3
Vibox Predator Green Gaming Case
Antec H2O Kuhler 650 Liquid Cooling System
Vibox 600W 80Plus Certified PSU
24x DVD-RW Optical Drive

Or

4.5GHz Intel Core i5 6600K Quad Core CPU *Overclocked*
MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Motherboard
Nvidia GeForce GTX 960 Gaming 2G Graphics Card (MSI Gaming Edition)
Patriot Blast 240GB SSD
[INTEL] 8GB Patriot Viper Xtreme - 2800MHz DDR4
NZXT H440 Mid-Tower Case Black / Red
Corsair Hydro H75 Liquid CPU Cooler
SuperFlower FX 650w Bronze PSU
External USB DVD Drive

Two, everything's better except for the graphics card.