Support NeoGAF

[Joco]

I had previously posted my first time build here and was planning on ordering parts, but after unexpectedly getting a Christmas bonus from work I decided to splurge a little and make a bit more capable build. Mainly what I'm looking for is feedback on compatibility between parts, but any feedback is appreciated. I'm most unsure about the motherboard (need it to be wifi capable) and the PSU, so opinions on those two items in particular would be appreciated. My planned build now is as follows.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Zpdk23
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Zpdk23/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($283.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($128.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($314.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($58.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1174.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-20 00:09 EST-0500

I have already received the Node 304 case, however, I'm having second thoughts due to how mitx is (supposedly?) harder to build in. Although I do love the small form factor of mitx. So I'm torn there as well. I still am within Amazon's return timeframe however and could order a Define R5 and different motherboard instead if need be. I'd like to keep price around $1200.

 

[RGM79]

Is the EVGA 970 FTW+ not worth the extra cost?
I plan on picking up a 970 as well.
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=14-487-090

It costs $45 more and from what I can tell, the two graphics cards are exactly the same except for somewhat higher default clock speeds on the FTW+. Both graphics cards come with a metal backplate, but it seems that the FTW+ has it installed already while it comes separately but bundled with the SSC. If you're willing to read up a bit about graphics card overclocking, you may be able to reach the same speeds yourself on the cheaper EVGA SSC model instead. It's a matter of convenience, I guess.

 

[manfestival]

I am already starting to look into a new GPU for next month. Now that I have quality parts and better parts that are new. What is the most cost effective card that I can get for 1080p gaming that is power efficient and able to run things at ultra settings 60fps?

 

[the21O]

If you're not ready to build your own PC, this deal is kind of insane for what you get inside a prebuilt machine:
http://slickdeals.net/f/8384991-hp-...orce-gtx-980ti-16gb-ddr4-and-i7-6700-1075?v=1

Can anyone tell me if this is better than building my own pc at the same price? Could I take out the guts and put them into a better case with a better motherboard/PS?

 

[Lucentto]

I finally had time to take a look and optimize your parts list. This is what I recommend:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($38.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($319.98 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer ($23.98 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1083.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-19 22:31 EST-0500

Performance wise, it is nearly identical to your parts list but costs $130 less. The motherboard is a downgrade in that it has fewer features, but it won't affect gaming performance, perhaps just overclocking. If you don't mind checking prices and getting most of the items pricematched, you can save even more:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($81.45 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($38.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($314.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer ($13.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1020.24
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-19 22:33 EST-0500

If pricematched, the build will only cost $1020.

Wow, thanks a lot. I am definitely going to order based on what you recommended.

 

[bkw]

I'm looking to piece together a machine in the next coming weeks to a month. Old pc is pretty old, Q6600 / 4GB / HD4850 / Corsair VX550.

Main uses is for game dev (Unity and Game Maker) and gaming at 1080p. Compiling my game in Unity takes way too long now. For games, I have a backlog of older games I want to get through (Bioshock Infinite, ACreed 3 and beyond, Witcher 2+3, etc). I don't think I demand a lot from games since I've never had a pc that can push Ultra settings.

I'm configuring things with ITX in mind, but I can probably be convinced to go standard desktop tower, if I really am making too many compromises for the sake of size (this is probably still a desktop PC that's probably going to sit under the desk for now, but a small PC is just too cool. =) I'd also like the option to make it an HTPC when it gets replaced.)

So far I have
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($235.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: ASRock B85M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($103.50 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($110.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.15 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card ($279.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Silverstone Sugo SG13B Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.90 @ Amazon Canada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full (32/64-bit) ($129.17 @ Canada Computers)
Total: $1117.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-20 02:56 EST-0500

My original budget was $1000 Canadian, but it seems like it's not going to be reasonable. I'd rather go for best value than saving that extra $100 or so. The price is ok as configured right now, definitely not beyond $1250. I could try software swap for Windows to bring it down a bit, but undecided on that at the moment.

I have some other thoughts and questions, but I'll defer them for later when I've gotta some feedback.

 

[SeppOCE]

So I'm in the middle of finalizing my PC.

ASUS GeForce GTX 970 Turbo 4GB
Gigabyte 78LMT-USB3 Motherboard
AMD FX 8320
G.Skill F3-10600CL9D-16GBNT 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3

My current power supply is 450 Watts with a max of 500 watts. I also live in Australia if that changes anything.

So I'm wondering if I'll need a new PSU to be able to run everything smoothly, will I need a new PSU?

EDIT: Also the parts in bold are the parts that I have just bought and are currently being shipped.

 

[RGM79]

Can anyone tell me if this is better than building my own pc at the same price? Could I take out the guts and put them into a better case with a better motherboard/PS?

Part for part it is cheaper than building your own PC from separate parts, especially if you include the cost of Windows. Yes you should be able to put the parts into a better case with different motherboard and power supply, but be aware that the Windows 10 license is tied to the motherboard. Changing the motherboard will not allow you to use the Windows 10 license. I highly doubt you can call Microsoft and have them transfer the Windows license to your new PC. Also, the warranty on the computer will be voided and HP will not be responsible for your new PC and will not help with repairs or replacements.

I am already starting to look into a new GPU for next month. Now that I have quality parts and better parts that are new. What is the most cost effective card that I can get for 1080p gaming that is power efficient and able to run things at ultra settings 60fps?

I think a GTX 970 will meet your needs if you don't mind turning down the graphics settings a bit, otherwise you will need to get a GTX 980 Ti if you want to max out the latest games.

I'm looking to piece together a machine in the next coming weeks to a month. Old pc is pretty old, Q6600 / 4GB / HD4850 / Corsair VX550.

Main uses is for game dev (Unity and Game Maker) and gaming at 1080p. Compiling my game in Unity takes way too long now. For games, I have a backlog of older games I want to get through (Bioshock Infinite, ACreed 3 and beyond, Witcher 2+3, etc). I don't think I demand a lot from games since I've never had a pc that can push Ultra settings.

I'm configuring things with ITX in mind, but I can probably be convinced to go standard desktop tower, if I really am making too many compromises for the sake of size (this is probably still a desktop PC that's probably going to sit under the desk for now, but a small PC is just too cool. =) I'd also like the option to make it an HTPC when it gets replaced.)

So far I have
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($235.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: ASRock B85M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($103.50 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($110.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.15 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card ($279.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Silverstone Sugo SG13B Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.90 @ Amazon Canada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full (32/64-bit) ($129.17 @ Canada Computers)
Total: $1117.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-20 02:56 EST-0500

My original budget was $1000 Canadian, but it seems like it's not going to be reasonable. I'd rather go for best value than saving that extra $100 or so. The price is ok as configured right now, definitely not beyond $1250. I could try software swap for Windows to bring it down a bit, but undecided on that at the moment.

I have some other thoughts and questions, but I'll defer them for later when I've gotta some feedback.

There's no point in getting 1866MHz RAM, according to manufacturer's specs that motherboard won't allow it to run any faster than 1600MHz. There are also other minor changes that can be made to optimize your build for cost and performance:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($235.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: ASRock B85M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($103.50 @ Vuugo)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($95.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Canada Computers)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card ($279.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Silverstone Sugo SG13B Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($85.50 @ Vuugo)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($108.15 @ Canada Computers)
Total: $1069.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-20 03:49 EST-0500

I changed the RAM for a more cost effective choice as per the reasoning above. I changed the SSD for a Samsung model that is slightly cheaper and faster for the same amount of storage. The 650 watt version of the 550 watt power supply you picked was available and also cheaper by a few dollars. Also, Windows 8.1 is available for a lower price - you can just install Windows 10 and activate it with a Windows 8.1 key instead while the upgrade offer is still valid.

So I'm in the middle of finalizing my PC.

ASUS GeForce GTX 970 Turbo 4GB
Gigabyte 78LMT-USB3 Motherboard
AMD FX 8320
G.Skill F3-10600CL9D-16GBNT 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3

My current power supply is 450 Watts with a max of 500 watts. I also live in Australia if that changes anything.

So I'm wondering if I'll need a new PSU to be able to run everything smoothly, will I need a new PSU?

EDIT: Also the parts in bold are the parts that I have just bought and are currently being shipped.

I'd advise against getting the Turbo model, it's known for being noisy. If you don't mind, then that's alright, as long as you know. What brand and model of power supply do you have and are you overclocking your CPU? Just 450 watts might just be enough for your system if you aren't overclocking and it is a decent quality power supply.

 

[SeppOCE]

I'd advise against getting the Turbo model, it's known for being noisy. If you don't mind, then that's alright, as long as you know. What brand and model of power supply do you have and are you overclocking your CPU? Just 450 watts might just be enough for your system if you aren't overclocking and it is a decent quality power supply.

I can grab the windforce OC edition not sure if it's any better but it's probably like 20 bucks more than the Turbo.

http://www.radioparts.com.au/produc...nit-oem-atx-computer-thermaltake#.VnZt8-KLB5A

That's my current power supply but it runs extremely hot so I'm thinking of grabbing

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/32102

I don't plan on overclocking at the moment because I'm not sure if my motherboard would handle it and I don't have the money to upgrade CPU cooling yet I've got a very low end Depp Cool CPU cooler

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/26746

it looks like this but it might even be a cheaper variant as I've misplaced the box so can't nail it down precisely.

 

[bkw]

There's no point in getting 1866MHz RAM, according to manufacturer's specs that motherboard won't allow it to run any faster than 1600MHz. There are also other minor changes that can be made to optimize your build for cost and performance:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($235.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: ASRock B85M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($103.50 @ Vuugo)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($95.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Canada Computers)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card ($279.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Silverstone Sugo SG13B Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($85.50 @ Vuugo)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($108.15 @ Canada Computers)
Total: $1069.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-20 03:49 EST-0500

I changed the RAM for a more cost effective choice as per the reasoning above. I changed the SSD for a Samsung model that is slightly cheaper and faster for the same amount of storage. The 650 watt version of the 550 watt power supply you picked was available and also cheaper by a few dollars. Also, Windows 8.1 is available for a lower price - you can just install Windows 10 and activate it with a Windows 8.1 key instead while the upgrade offer is still valid.

Thanks for the changes. It all makes sense. Should I care about TLC versus MLC SSDs? Does it make much difference?

I originally wanted this build to be VR ready, which means I would have been looking at least at the 970. That's beyond my price range at the moment (plus with the cost of the VR device itself), so I'm sort of planning this build with a potential GPU upgrade in the future. With this in mind, does the 960 make sense? I'm contemplating whether it's worth going cheaper on the GPU now, and maybe get a better CPU (i7?). What's the next step below the 960? (And on the same note, 960 is similar to the 380 right? What's below the 380?)

 

[RGM79]

I can grab the windforce OC edition not sure if it's any better but it's probably like 20 bucks more than the Turbo.

http://www.radioparts.com.au/produc...nit-oem-atx-computer-thermaltake#.VnZt8-KLB5A

That's my current power supply but it runs extremely hot so I'm thinking of grabbing

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/32102

I don't plan on overclocking at the moment because I'm not sure if my motherboard would handle it and I don't have the money to upgrade CPU cooling yet I've got a very low end Depp Cool CPU cooler

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/26746

it looks like this but it might even be a cheaper variant as I've misplaced the box so can't nail it down precisely.

I'd highly recommend the GTX 970 Windforce, it can be a lot less noisy and offer better cooling than the Asus Turbo's single blower type fan.

Unfortunately, that Thermaltake power supply doesn't seem to be very good. Although it's marketed as a 500 watt power supply, it is really only capable of 360 watts on the 12 volt rail, which is what mainly powers your processor and graphics card.

I was only able to find one review of that Thermaltake power supply from a Russian website (Google translate), and they found it to be of poor quality to say the least. The only positive thing they said about it was that it had all the power cables that it was expected to have to function with a single graphics card.

I highly recommend upgrading your power supply especially if you plan to overclock in the future. That CM B700 does have more than enough wattage to meet your needs, but I'm a bit wary of it seeing as it's a newer model and I cannot find any reviews for it. How much can you spend on a new power supply? Going off this list, most of the ones I'd recommend are in the $100 and up range. That list is by no means complete, though. If you want to take a look yourself, this list of power supplies should give you an idea of what to get.

Thanks for the changes. It all makes sense. Should I care about TLC versus MLC SSDs? Does it make much difference?

I originally wanted this build to be VR ready, which means I would have been looking at least at the 970. That's beyond my price range at the moment (plus with the cost of the VR device itself), so I'm sort of planning this build with a potential GPU upgrade in the future. With this in mind, does the 960 make sense? I'm contemplating whether it's worth going cheaper on the GPU now, and maybe get a better CPU (i7?). What's the next step below the 960? (And on the same note, 960 is similar to the 380 right? What's below the 380?)

I feel comfortable recommending TLC-based SSDs. If you would rather feel safer, it's totally your choice to stay with MLC instead. This recent article explains some of the hurdles of TLC SSDs. Another thing to maybe consider is that technically TLC-based SSDs have lower endurance than a MLC SSD, but both should last more than long enough for average users.

What graphics card you get and whether it makes sense depends on how much you're prepared to spend and whether it can do what you want. There's nothing wrong with getting a stronger processor and a weaker graphics card if you're prepared to get a graphics card upgrade in the future. Below the GTX 960 is the GTX 950. Yes, the GTX 960 competes with the R9 380. Below the R9 380 is the R7 370. As I understand it the GTX 960 is roughly on par with the R9 380, while the GTX 950 generally beats the R7 370 by a bit. As always, results can vary according to what game is being tested and at what settings.

 

[SeppOCE]

I'd highly recommend the GTX 970 Windforce, it can be a lot less noisy and offer better cooling than the Asus Turbo's single blower type fan.

Unfortunately, that Thermaltake power supply doesn't seem to be very good. Although it's marketed as a 500 watt power supply, it is really only capable of 360 watts on the 12 volt rail, which is what mainly powers your processor and graphics card.

I was only able to find one review of that Thermaltake power supply from a Russian website (Google translate), and they found it to be of poor quality to say the least. The only positive thing they said about it was that it had all the power cables that it was expected to have to function with a single graphics card.

I highly recommend upgrading your power supply especially if you plan to overclock in the future. That EVGA 700B does have more than enough wattage to meet your needs, but I'm a bit wary of it seeing as it's a new model and I cannot find any reviews for it. How much can you spend on a new power supply? Going off this list, most of the ones I'd recommend are in the $100 and up range. That list is by no means complete, though. If you want to take a look yourself, this list of power supplies should give you an idea of what to get.

Sadly with money constraints I opted for the PSU and Card I linked. The PSU is something I took a chance with because of it's bang for your buck nature and I've read Coolermaster is mostly reliable 700 watts should be enough too. If Cooling becomes an issue I can easily save for more fans or a better case than what I have but at the moment its honestly using stepping stones while working with the income I have. You've definitely been a great help though so thank you very much for replying when you did and with great swiftness!

Would you happen to know of any CPU coolers that go well with an FX 8320 in regards to overclocking?

 

[RGM79]

Sadly with money constraints I opted for the PSU and Card I linked. The PSU is something I took a chance with because of it's bang for your buck nature and I've read Coolermaster is mostly reliable 700 watts should be enough too. If Cooling becomes an issue I can easily save for more fans or a better case than what I have but at the moment its honestly using stepping stones while working with the income I have. You've definitely been a great help though so thank you very much for replying when you did and with great swiftness!

Would you happen to know of any CPU coolers that go well with an FX 8320 in regards to overclocking?

Alright, I can understand that about the power supply and graphics card. As for CPU coolers, what case do you have? We need to make sure what CPU coolers we recommend will physically fit into your computer's case. You said earlier that you might have the Deepcool GAMMAXX S40, that cooler measures 143mm tall. After looking through PC Case Gear's stock, I recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212X ($55) or the Cryorig H5 Universal ($69). Both measure 160mm in height which is a fair bit taller than the cooler you might have. The Cryorig model is more expensive but also somewhat more capable than the CM.

 

[Unknown Soldier]

If you're looking to fill that hungry gaping maw that is the open M.2 slot on your X99/Z170 build, Fry's has the Samsung 950 Pro today.

256GB version - $159 (requires promo code by email):
http://www.frys.com/product/8646990

512GB version - $309 (no code required):
http://www.frys.com/product/8647020

 

[le-seb]

According to these results by Tom's Hardware and Anandtech, Skylake processors consume more power in the tests than their Haswell equivalents do.

Do you think I'm gonna mine Bitcoins, or something?
Because I don't, and I expect my system to do nothing 99,999% of the time. Idling, you know.
The first article you linked clearly shows how much more efficient Skylake is in this regard!

 

[RGM79]

Do you think I'm gonna mine Bitcoins, or something?
Because I don't, and I expect my system to do nothing 99,999% of the time. Idling, you know.
The first article you linked clearly shows how much more efficient Skylake is in this regard!

How many years do you think you'll have to keep running the PC in order to match the savings by going to a Haswell-based parts list instead? Of course, I don't know how much electricity costs where you live, but it should be simple enough to calculate.

If my calculations are correct, you save a whopping $7 USD (~6.44 Euros) every year if you leave the computer on and running idle for 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and 52 weeks a year. These calculations assume the Skylake processor's idle wattage to be 3.6 watts and the Haswell i7 processor's idle wattage to be 8 watts. According to this link, the average cost of electricity in France is 0.20 $/kWh (USD).

Obviously you won't have your computer on all of the time, so I imagine it'll be less than half of that. You cut less than 5 Euros a year off your electricity bill if you stay with the Skylake processor, whereas I'm willing to bet that the money saved with the Haswell processor is more than enough to offset many years worth of running the more efficient processor.

If you absolutely cannot stand to have your computer idling with ~4 watts higher power consumption, would it not be a better idea to keep your computer hibernating or in sleep mode until you actually need it? As long as you have your operating system installed on the SSD, resuming from sleep and hibernation should be extremely fast, almost instantly if from sleep and taking a couple seconds longer if from hibernation. Even if you shut down the PC and turn it back on when you need it, it should take less than 20 seconds to be ready to use.

Sorry if I appear to be not understanding or condescending, but I don't see the point of being so energy efficient from a cost-effective point of view. I found some idle power consumption estimates for Skylake and Haswell based computers (including the i7 6700 processor) if you are interested.

 

[le-seb]

Okay, there's not much to save on electricity costs, this argument was wonky.

Just say that paying €800 or €1100 for such a system makes no difference to me, I'm wealthy enough to not care, but knowing that the latter configuration will consume less energy over its lifetime does. For reasons. Let's say I'm a bit of an environmentalist, and hate spoiling resources unnecessarily.
Also, you can just look back, it was all written in my original post.

So, I'm definitely choosing to go with a Skylake CPU.

And yes, I'll do whatever I can to make this system be as energy-efficient as possible.

 

[Vulcano's assistant]

Motherboard : MSI H170M PRO-VHD

I had very bad luck with MSI skylake mobos last month (had to return two, in fact), just make sure you are not one of the people who buy the model before there is a single customer review, or that there are easy return procedures from that store.

 

[Athreous]

Guys, I ended up buying a Z97 MSI and an i5 4690k =D

In order to overclock, is it possible to do a small OC with the stock cooler?

Also, which cooler would you recommend to oc it and what's a safe oc frequency?

 

[ParityBit]

I posted this to the wrong thread ....

I have been debating a new monitor in the next month or so. Is this a good time?

I play games on mine and I feel that the image quality is not NEAR what people get around here.

Monitor: Asus VG278H 27-Inch
GPU: GTX680 (x2)

 

[Cpt.Underpants]

So I bought a MSI 980ti to replace my gtx 670. It's gonna be arriving tomorrow, its a good replacement right? Mind you my 670 was my first graphics card from 2-3 years ago

Its gonna run on W10 16gb of ram and i5 3570k OC'd to 4.7ghz

 

[le-seb]

I had very bad luck with MSI skylake mobos last month (had to return two, in fact), just make sure you are not one of the people who buy the model before there is a single customer review, or that there are easy return procedures from that store.

Good to know, thanks!

The store had both Gigabyte and MSI options available, and I just selected the MSI one for the quotation because the vendor told me that MSI were starting to make better boards than Gigabyte. And I was curious to try their products, as I only had used Gigabyte motheboards previously.

Looking at it now, you're right: I can't find a single review for this board, and am getting a bit concerned it may have the same problems as yours. On the other hand, the Gigabyte option (GA-H170M-D3H) looks to be buggy from what I can read, so it's a bit like choosing between poison and rope...

Getting the board replaced shouldn't be a problem, though.
I'm simply hoping I won't have to get my hands in the hardware too often...

 

[MR ARCADE FOREVER]

I had very bad luck with MSI skylake mobos last month (had to return two, in fact), just make sure you are not one of the people who buy the model before there is a single customer review, or that there are easy return procedures from that store.

I had bad luck with a MSI X99 mobo it died on me after 2 days installed. I decided to switch to Asus and so far it's all good

 

[sleepydeer]

Any suggestions for a fan upgrade for an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro rev 2? Been using it for five years and it's still running fine but it's way too loud now, I'd like something really quiet. Not overclocking so performance isn't a big deal. I'd prefer to keep the heatsink.

Other specs:
i5 3570 (not k)
Asrock H61M-VS
Fractal Define R5

edit: UK, BTW.

 

[le-seb]

I'm getting a Jog-Shuttle USB device to ease the editing of my videos, which is basically a mouse peripheral with some extra buttons.
The thing is wired, though, and I don't really see myself running a 5m USB extender cord through the living room to connect it to the PC.

Do anybody knows about a battery powered device that I could plug the jog into, and that would make it wireless?

 

[Morning19]

Any suggestions for a fan upgrade for an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro rev 2? Been using it for five years and it's still running fine but it's way too loud now, I'd like something really quiet. Not overclocking so performance isn't a big deal. I'd prefer to keep the heatsink.

Other specs:
i5 3570 (not k)
Asrock H61M-VS
Fractal Define R5

edit: UK, BTW.

About the same price but check out the cryorig h7. Great reviews, good RAM clearance, nice looking as well.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF2DZ6565&cm_re=Cryorig_h7-_-9SIA4UF2DZ6565-_-Product

 

[Jharp]

So ready to pull the trigger on this GAF, can I get just a bit more feedback?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-E/USB3.1 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury White 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($80.93 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($666.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 750D Airflow Edition ATX Full Tower Case ($173.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($165.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1772.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-20 13:53 EST-0500

 

[kuYuri]

So I bought a MSI 980ti to replace my gtx 670. It's gonna be arriving tomorrow, its a good replacement right? Mind you my 670 was my first graphics card from 2-3 years ago

Its gonna run on W10 16gb of ram and i5 3570k OC'd to 4.7ghz

Huge improvement in performance, I went from a 680 to a 970 and that was a very noticeable improvement at 1080p, then I went from the 970 @ 1080p to 980 Ti @1440p and the jump was huge again, even with the bump to 1440p.

I too got the MSI 980 Ti, I've been happy with the card so far.

 

[sleepydeer]

About the same price but check out the cryorig h7. Great reviews, good RAM clearance, nice looking as well.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF2DZ6565&cm_re=Cryorig_h7-_-9SIA4UF2DZ6565-_-Product

Yeah, that is a nice looking cooler but if I can put a quieter fan on my current heatsink I'd definitely take that option. Not sure about compatibility but it looks like with the right clips I can just put a normal case fan on - anyone know what I need to look for?

 

[g11]

So what is the quietest 970 on the market right now cumulatively? I know ASUS, EVGA and MSI (among others I'm sure) have models with a 0db idle mode, but I'd like something that's as quiet as possible while gaming (i.e. at load) as well. I've done some google searches but like anything with graphics cards, nothing conclusive. Any head-to-head comparisons out there specifically for audibility?

 

[LilJoka]

Yeah, that is a nice looking cooler but if I can put a quieter fan on my current heatsink I'd definitely take that option. Not sure about compatibility but it looks like with the right clips I can just put a normal case fan on - anyone know what I need to look for?

CPU coolers only get louder if they are full of dust and the fan needs to spin up much faster. Or the thermal paste has dried up and needs reapplying. So make sure it's all cleaned up first, and a new application of thermal paste.
Unless the fan is damaged in some way, then there's no need to buy another. If you can hear metal grinding or something....

 

[kuYuri]

So ready to pull the trigger on this GAF, can I get just a bit more feedback?

Build looks good to me, wouldn't really change anything about it.

 

[sleepydeer]

CPU coolers only get louder if they are full of dust and the fan needs to spin up much faster. Or the thermal paste has dried up and needs reapplying. So make sure it's all cleaned up first, and a new application of thermal paste.
Unless the fan is damaged in some way, then there's no need to buy another. If you can hear metal grinding or something....

I've already re-applied the paste - switched to the stock Intel heatsink/fan for a while and then back. It's louder than the stock cooler which wasn't true when I bought it, although it was never very quiet.
It could be dusty inside but the outside is clean and it spins properly when pushed.

Either way, some fans are definitely quieter than others, so if I can upgrade to a quieter one I'd like that.

 

[LilJoka]

I've already re-applied the paste - switched to the stock Intel heatsink/fan for a while and then back. It's louder than the stock cooler which wasn't true when I bought it, although it was never very quiet.
It could be dusty inside but the outside is clean and it spins properly when pushed.

Either way, some fans are definitely quieter than others, so if I can upgrade to a quieter one I'd like that.

What are the temperatures, use HWmonitor to check.
Have you used motherboard software to reduce the fan speed?

I say this because you can make any fan near silent at 600rpm.

 

[sleepydeer]

What are the temperatures, use HWmonitor to check.
Have you used motherboard software to reduce the fan speed?

I say this because you can make any fan near silent at 600rpm.

Temps seem fine, idling at 30 or so, haven't stress-tested it but games haven't gone over 50.
I went from i3 2100 to i5 3570 lately so had to flash the BIOS, so it would have lost my old fan settings - that might explain why it seems louder, although not why it's losing to the Intel fan.
It's set to automatically reduce speed already but maybe I can slow it some more, I'll try it.

 

[hiro4]

Didn't know where to ask, but this seemed like the most logical place.

So, I'm looking for an extra monitor and I've already narrowed it down to two monitors.

• 
  Dell U2515H with a 1440p resolution
• Dell U2414H with a 1080p resolution

Thing is, it is going to be used with at least three devices, all with their different uses. It will be used as a second monitor for my 27inc iMac, with a 1440p resolution, my 13" MBPr also with an 1440p resolution as it's primary screen, but also with a Playstation TV and possibly other consoles.

The 2515H is a 1440p screen, which will probably look and feel better with both macs, but I'm kinda worried that the Playstation TV won't look as good on the 1440p screen of the 2515H compared to the 1080p resolution of the U2414H.

Any advice on which one will be better or that I'm worrying over nothing or any suggestions for other options are more than welcome! Not really interested in 120hz or 144hz monitors though, since I don't game a lot on my Macs (insert macs and games joke). Thanks all!

 

[manfestival]

I think a GTX 970 will meet your needs if you don't mind turning down the graphics settings a bit, otherwise you will need to get a GTX 980 Ti if you want to max out the latest games.

Sounds good so get a 970. One more question, should I get a mechanical keyboard? I have had this desire to get one but I could never justify the cost. However, it seems like monoprice has a mechicnal blue for 50. That seems to be the best deal by far on one. What are your thoughts?

 

[Cpt.Underpants]

Huge improvement in performance, I went from a 680 to a 970 and that was a very noticeable improvement at 1080p, then I went from the 970 @ 1080p to 980 Ti @1440p and the jump was huge again, even with the bump to 1440p.

I too got the MSI 980 Ti, I've been happy with the card so far.

Cool, can't wait for it to arrive

 

[Wowfunhappy]

The 2515H is a 1440p screen, which will probably look and feel better with both macs, but I'm kinda worried that the Playstation TV won't look as good on the 1440p screen of the 2515H compared to the 1080p resolution of the U2414H.

Are you planning on mainly playing Vita games or streaming PS4 games? The former will usually run at 540p, whereas the latter will run at 720p (IIRC—someone please correct me if I'm wrong!)

720p is EXACTLY HALF the resolution of 1440p, which means that 720p content will actually look better on a 1440p screen than it will on a 1080p screen, because the pixels can scale evenly.

By contrast, 540p will look better on a 1080p, because, again, it will scale perfectly.

So it all depends on what consoles and resolutions you'll actually be playing at!

 

[SpeedySwaf]

So I'm getting really concerned about the computer I built. Admittedly I haven't had a lot of time to use it, but lately it's been sporadically rebooting itself when I use it. Just now I got finished playing a game and left it alone so it would go into sleep mode, but then a few minutes later it rebooted itself. It may have also done it this morning after not touching it all night.

I'm worried that maybe it's overheating. I'm pretty sure I hear the fan running inside, but maybe it's not enough, or maybe there are cables interfering with the flow...? Is there any software recommended that could help me determine the temps and everything? It's currently running Windows 10.

EDIT: I'm pretty sure it isn't a power issue, because the PSU is a 650 watt unit and the computer's only using a single 970. The full specs:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($289.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer i30 74.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($45.50 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.75 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($84.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Crucial BX100 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($165.93 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ Adorama)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($314.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Antec P100 ATX Mid Tower Case ($75.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($18.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1355.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-20 17:46 EST-0500

 

[SeppOCE]

Alright, I can understand that about the power supply and graphics card. As for CPU coolers, what case do you have? We need to make sure what CPU coolers we recommend will physically fit into your computer's case. You said earlier that you might have the Deepcool GAMMAXX S40, that cooler measures 143mm tall. After looking through PC Case Gear's stock, I recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212X ($55) or the Cryorig H5 Universal ($69). Both measure 160mm in height which is a fair bit taller than the cooler you might have. The Cryorig model is more expensive but also somewhat more capable than the CM.

Just grabbed the H5, it put me over a bit but it feels rather necessary as the fan I've got has been worrying me for a while, so for now my PC should be up to shape! I couldn't find my case online but the measurements add up enough for me to purchase it and install it. I'm looking into grabbing a new case anyway so if you know of a good case I can get for cheap let me know Thanks again for the help!

 

[Unknown Soldier]

Are you planning on mainly playing Vita games or streaming PS4 games? The former will usually run at 540p, whereas the latter will run at 720p (IIRC—someone please correct me if I'm wrong!)

720p is EXACTLY HALF the resolution of 1440p, which means that 720p content will actually look better on a 1440p screen than it will on a 1080p screen, because the pixels can scale evenly.

By contrast, 540p will look better on a 1080p, because, again, it will scale perfectly.

So it all depends on what consoles and resolutions you'll actually be playing at!

4K is the best because it's exactly 2x scale of 1080p and 3x scale of 720p

 

[Deleted member 98878]

Just grabbed the H5, it put me over a bit but it feels rather necessary as the fan I've got has been worrying me for a while, so for now my PC should be up to shape! I couldn't find my case online but the measurements add up enough for me to purchase it and install it. I'm looking into grabbing a new case anyway so if you know of a good case I can get for cheap let me know Thanks again for the help!

The H5 is a great cooler, using one myself. Keeps my 4670k @4.7 <65°C while running Prime95.

And for the case (if you don't need a 5.25 drive bay):
NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center)

 

[komplanen]

I'm dying of envy looking at the S340 prices in the US. Cheapest I can get it in Finland is 95€ *sadface*

 

[Arcteryx]

Any input on "waiting" for Pascal?

I'm doing a new build (haven't built anything in years), so I'm looking to go big, as well as future-proof myself somewhat (hence, the potentially wanting to wait out Pascal).

I'll be doing 1440p (gsync) for sure, just looking for input on whether I should pick up a 970/other card now and then roll into Pascal, or should I just say f it and roll with a 980ti (potentially selling it if Pascal is that big of a leap).

 

[finalflame]

Any input on "waiting" for Pascal?

I'm doing a new build (haven't built anything in years), so I'm looking to go big, as well as future-proof myself somewhat (hence, the potentially wanting to wait out Pascal).

I'll be doing 1440p (gsync) for sure, just looking for input on whether I should pick up a 970/other card now and then roll into Pascal, or should I just say f it and roll with a 980ti (potentially selling it if Pascal is that big of a leap).

Pascal is going to be a quantum leap over Maxwell. nVidia has been stuck on 28nm for too long, and the combination of 16nm + HBM2 is going to make for insane performance gains.

A 980 Ti most certainly won't be future proof up against Pascal the way the 780 Ti was against the 980. Get a holdover card or wait to build your system until Pascal is out, if you're looking to get super high performance at resolutions > 1080p.

 

[komplanen]

When are we expecting Pascal to release?

 

[Joco]

When are we expecting Pascal to release?

Q2 2016 at the earliest.

 

[BIGWORM]

Old roommate is commissioning me to fix a branded computer--a Gateway FX4710, to be exact. Intel Q9300 a "huge" 6GB of DDR2 (circa 2008 reviews). Upon opening up to see the physical condition of the inside, I found a free-floating hard drive at the base of the case. If someone knocked this computer in the past, this could be an open and shut case. I've already started looking at a budget Skylake build for him, fearing the worst. But first, I had to purchase a HDMI to DVI converter due to the 9800GT not having HDMI out. We'll see what happens as I attempt to boot this up tomorrow.

He's also wanting me to build him a higher-end computer for him for sound processing. He's a huge audiophile--like $60k worth of sound equipment in his garage--light stages, huge amps, multiple guitars, drum sets. I'm not sure where to base the build around outside of a good sound card and lots of hard drive space for RAW processing (was thinking 3TB+), and possibly 32GB DDR4. I'll be suggesting a Skylake build. Any suggestions on this build?

 

[Pandemic]

Hey guys, I've had my PC for probably around two years now and I'm looking into upgrading the graphics card.

Currently my specs are,
- Intel Core i7-3770K: 3.50GHz
- 16GB Ram
- GeForce GTX 680

Can anyone recommend a good graphics card that is compatible with the above and will last me a year or so?

Nothing too expensive either, maybe $350-400 max?

I was looking at the GTX 960? Not sure if it's any good?