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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Dipper145

Member
Been having computer problems off and on for a bit, and am due for an upgrade. I haven't been following computer stuff for a while now, and the budget is probably around 800$ CDN. I would ideally like to provide myself the ability to upgrade the computer in the future without needing to buy everything again.

My current specs are an AM3 motherboard, amd x3 435, 4gb ddr3 1333 ram, and an 6870 1GB, two hard drives, ~300gb and 500gb. The only thing i'd likely reuse is the hard drives, and extra fans that are already in the computer, and possibly the 6870 for now if needed.

I attempted to create something like what I was thinking of getting (using parts available at NCIX, since I'll be using their 50$ assembly): http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/ksXGyc which is above budget. Losing the 380 for now and upgrading my video card later would save a significant amount of money. The other option is dropping the SSD, waiting for better deals at some point, and saving 50$ and assembling it myself which I'm not 100% comfortable doing, as I've only ever put in new video cards and ram, which is pretty easy.
 

RGM79

Member

This Hardware Canucks review puts them next to a ruler and it says 34mm.

You're getting the Noctua NH-D15 cooler, right? What case is it going inside? You can just mount the fan on the NH-D15 higher to allow taller RAM underneath. I have the NH-D15, Fractal Define S case, and G.Skill Ripjaws V RAM. The Ripjaws V design is 42mm tall and I just mounted the fan higher to allow the RAM to fit underneath.

You can see how it works in Tweaktown's review of the NH-D15. They used the 54mm tall G.Skill Trident X RAM in their testing PC. The fan is mounted with wire clips that will go anywhere on the heatsink fins, just install the RAM first and then clip on the fan above the RAM.

Been having computer problems off and on for a bit, and am due for an upgrade. I haven't been following computer stuff for a while now, and the budget is probably around 800$ CDN. I would ideally like to provide myself the ability to upgrade the computer in the future without needing to buy everything again.

My current specs are an AM3 motherboard, amd x3 435, 4gb ddr3 1333 ram, and an 6870 1GB, two hard drives, ~300gb and 500gb. The only thing i'd likely reuse is the hard drives, and extra fans that are already in the computer, and possibly the 6870 for now if needed.

I attempted to create something like what I was thinking of getting (using parts available at NCIX, since I'll be using their 50$ assembly): http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/ksXGyc which is above budget. Losing the 380 for now and upgrading my video card later would save a significant amount of money. The other option is dropping the SSD, waiting for better deals at some point, and saving 50$ and assembling it myself which I'm not 100% comfortable doing, as I've only ever put in new video cards and ram, which is pretty easy.
What computer problems are you having?

I'd drop the SSD for now and maybe the graphics card too if you can hold out longer before upgrading it.
 

Oxn

Member
Broadwell? The the 5820k is a haswell-E i7 for around 350. I imagine the Skylake-E will be at least 500 for an i7.

Got it mixed up. Why do you think you can't afford Broadwell-E (anticipated for Summer 2016), but can afford Haswell-E?

The 5820 equivalent Broadwell-E should be near the same price, seeing as the 5820 barely dropped in price depending where you look.
 

Herne

Member
We're looking to replace one of the 1TB drives in our media pc with a 4TB one. I'm likely going to be choosing a Western Digital Blue, which is a 5,400 rpm drive but since it's only going to be streaming media, it's not an issue. I would get the Green version but reviews tell me it has one of those spin-up "features" that take an age. Apparently there is a fix of sorts for it but it's only to increase the time it takes to spin down again for up to 300 seconds, which for a drive that will be streaming across the network isn't great.

The Red ones appear to be NAS only and the Black drives are too pricey. I've been looking around and am surprised at the lack of variety in manufacturers - what happened to Toshiba and Hitachi? I see only Western Digital and Seagate now. Multiple reviews have told me to stay away from the Seagate ones which is fine as Western Digital would be my choice anyway.

Does anyone have any comments on choosing Blue over Green? Or are there any other drives I should be taking a look at?
 

RGM79

Member
Somebody please explain this to me. How can the i7 4980HQ be this high up on this list? I can't believe that it's faster than the i7 3770k for instance.

https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_lookup.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i7-4980HQ+@+2.80GHz&id=2327

It's a synthetic benchmark, it's not necessarily reflective of real-world performance. All it really means is that "we ran this program that counts something and it counted that high of a score". It doesn't take into account certain things like cooling or heat throttling.

Hey PC-Gaf what's the difference between liquid cooling and cpu coolers/fans?

Liquid cooling uses air and water to cool down the CPU. There is usually a block on top of the CPU and a metal radiator, they are connected by tubes containing liquid running in a loop that draws heat away from the CPU to the radiator, which is cooled down by fans blowing air through it.

Air cooling usually has some kind of a metal radiator attached directly on top of the CPU that also has fans blowing air through it.

We're looking to replace one of the 1TB drives in our media pc with a 4TB one. I'm likely going to be choosing a Western Digital Blue, which is a 5,400 rpm drive but since it's only going to be streaming media, it's not an issue. I would get the Green version but reviews tell me it has one of those spin-up "features" that take an age. Apparently there is a fix of sorts for it but it's only to increase the time it takes to spin down again for up to 300 seconds, which for a drive that will be streaming across the network isn't great.

The Red ones appear to be NAS only and the Black drives are too pricey. I've been looking around and am surprised at the lack of variety in manufacturers - what happened to Toshiba and Hitachi? I see only Western Digital and Seagate now. Multiple reviews have told me to stay away from the Seagate ones which is fine as Western Digital would be my choice anyway.

Does anyone have any comments on choosing Blue over Green? Or are there any other drives I should be taking a look at?

Although red drives are marketed as being for NAS use, you can just use them with any PC.

What country are you in? Toshiba and Hitachi are still widely available, unless you're not in North America or the EU?
 
This Hardware Canucks review puts them next to a ruler and it says 34mm.

You're getting the Noctua NH-D15 cooler, right? What case is it going inside? You can just mount the fan on the NH-D15 higher to allow taller RAM underneath. I have the NH-D15, Fractal Define S case, and G.Skill Ripjaws V RAM. The Ripjaws V design is 42mm tall and I just mounted the fan higher to allow the RAM to fit underneath.

You can see how it works in Tweaktown's review of the NH-D15. They used the 54mm tall G.Skill Trident X RAM in their testing PC. The fan is mounted with wire clips that will go anywhere on the heatsink fins, just install the RAM first and then clip on the fan above the RAM.

thanks for your post!

im going to use a corsair air 540

id be all for doing it the way in the link but the looks really matter to me since im spending so much money on the rig and id like everything to look nice and level

i found this pic of the d15 with the corsair vengeance undernearth and it looks like it works great

P1050402.jpg
 

knitoe

Member
We're looking to replace one of the 1TB drives in our media pc with a 4TB one. I'm likely going to be choosing a Western Digital Blue, which is a 5,400 rpm drive but since it's only going to be streaming media, it's not an issue. I would get the Green version but reviews tell me it has one of those spin-up "features" that take an age. Apparently there is a fix of sorts for it but it's only to increase the time it takes to spin down again for up to 300 seconds, which for a drive that will be streaming across the network isn't great.

The Red ones appear to be NAS only and the Black drives are too pricey. I've been looking around and am surprised at the lack of variety in manufacturers - what happened to Toshiba and Hitachi? I see only Western Digital and Seagate now. Multiple reviews have told me to stay away from the Seagate ones which is fine as Western Digital would be my choice anyway.

Does anyone have any comments on choosing Blue over Green? Or are there any other drives I should be taking a look at?

Avoid the Greens.

As for Seagate, in the past, they had 1 or 2 models which had major issues, but their recent drives have shown they are just as reliable was any other HDDs. Personally, I have used many Seagate HDDs without any problems so I have no worries buying them.

If you want them cheap, buy external drives, take them out of the case and install them in your case. Just google for which one to get. The only issue is no warranty if you mess up opening the case and can't cleanly put it back together.
 

Jharp

Member
How do you guys feel about GPU sag? I was a tad worried after finishing up my build that the GPU looked ever so slightly crooked, and after looking it up, it seems to be a somewhat common thing, especially with bigger cards. Most of what I read suggested it's normal and nothing to worry about.
 
We're looking to replace one of the 1TB drives in our media pc with a 4TB one. I'm likely going to be choosing a Western Digital Blue, which is a 5,400 rpm drive but since it's only going to be streaming media, it's not an issue. I would get the Green version but reviews tell me it has one of those spin-up "features" that take an age. Apparently there is a fix of sorts for it but it's only to increase the time it takes to spin down again for up to 300 seconds, which for a drive that will be streaming across the network isn't great.

The Red ones appear to be NAS only and the Black drives are too pricey. I've been looking around and am surprised at the lack of variety in manufacturers - what happened to Toshiba and Hitachi? I see only Western Digital and Seagate now. Multiple reviews have told me to stay away from the Seagate ones which is fine as Western Digital would be my choice anyway.

Does anyone have any comments on choosing Blue over Green? Or are there any other drives I should be taking a look at?

I suggest the Hitachi Deskstar NAS drives. I have the 6 TB one in my media PC. Been thinking of getting a second to run RAID 1. Yes, I'm aware that RAID is not a backup.
 

Dipper145

Member
What computer problems are you having?

I'd drop the SSD for now and maybe the graphics card too if you can hold out longer before upgrading it.

The occasional BSOD, failure to awake from sleep mode, failure to get past the BIOS options when starting up, and sometimes failing to ever finish the shutdown process. These don't happen all the time, but have been occurring for a while now, and some have been getting more frequent.
 
Got it mixed up. Why do you think you can't afford Broadwell-E (anticipated for Summer 2016), but can afford Haswell-E?

The 5820 equivalent Broadwell-E should be near the same price, seeing as the 5820 barely dropped in price depending where you look.

I wasn't even considering Broadwell-E support to be honest. I was looking at Skylake-E in Q3/4. What kind of performances gains are they assuming we might see with the Broadwell-E? I haven't reapply looked into it. It might be a thing where I sell and trade up in the future.
 

longdi

Banned
How do you guys feel about GPU sag? I was a tad worried after finishing up my build that the GPU looked ever so slightly crooked, and after looking it up, it seems to be a somewhat common thing, especially with bigger cards. Most of what I read suggested it's normal and nothing to worry about.

It is troublesome, so i got an inverted casing from Silverstone. No sag. :D
 
I wasn't even considering Broadwell-E support to be honest. I was looking at Skylake-E in Q3/4. What kind of performances gains are they assuming we might see with the Broadwell-E? I haven't reapply looked into it. It might be a thing where I sell and trade up in the future.

Skylake-E is 2017, fyi.
 

Mets9

Member
Lately when watching TV series on fullscreen the screen turns green after more than an hour, and all I can do is restart the PC. Is my GPU dying? I have an HD6870.
 

Dewoh

Neo Member
Given the current price differences of the 6600k vs the 6700k (250 vs 420+), is the 6700k going to get me a significant increase if all I want to be doing is gaming?

Ideally at 4k, using sli 980 ti, but knowing that to get 60 fps I'll be mostly at 1080p.
 

longdi

Banned
I will get 5820k over 6700k.
Otherwise 6600k is more than enough for gaming for a while. Unless AMD zen do something great and accelerate the competition
 

e90Mark

Member
The two monitors I wanted, XL2411Z and VG248QE sold out everywhere. B&H shows backordered til Feb 2016, welp. Should have bought them before the holidays.
Bought my XL2411Z from B&H, they've been backordered so many times on there. Best online price, but looks like they raised it recently.

Given the current price differences of the 6600k vs the 6700k (250 vs 420+), is the 6700k going to get me a significant increase if all I want to be doing is gaming?

Ideally at 4k, using sli 980 ti, but knowing that to get 60 fps I'll be mostly at 1080p.

No. The markup retailers are doing right now is crazy for the 6700k. I found Microcenter to be have the lowest, but it's still about a $30 markup that shouldn't be there.

I wound up with a 6600k at a light OC of 4.5 and don't think I would be better off with the 7 for gaming.
 

ISee

Member
Hi GAF, I'm looking for a new system ssd (Windows, some files, programs etc.) as my old 64gb samsung 830 is running a bit out of space (bought when it came out). I was thinking about either getting a samsung 850 pro (150€) or an 850 Evo (80€) (both with 256gb). I'm more concerned about longevity than speed, but I'm not sure if the price difference is worth it. Or are there better choices?
 

komplanen

Member
Hi GAF, I'm looking for a new system ssd (Windows, some files, programs etc.) as my old 64gb samsung 830 is running a bit out of space (bought when it came out). I was thinking about either getting a samsung 850 pro (150€) or an 850 Evo (80€) (both with 256gb). I'm more concerned about longevity than speed, but I'm not sure if the price difference is worth it. Or are there better choices?

I remember reading in several reviews that the amount of reads and writes a current gen SSD can do in its life time is so much you could literally write the entire drive full of data every day for several years before any problems.

Also what does longevity mean to you? Considering the Pro is 2x the price, are you expecting it to be 2x as durable? How about you buy the EVO now, pocket the $80 and buy another EVO a few years from now. I bet that will get you much farther than the Pro and the amount of money would be similar.
 

industrian

will gently cradle you as time slowly ticks away.
Hi GAF, I'm looking for a new system ssd (Windows, some files, programs etc.) as my old 64gb samsung 830 is running a bit out of space (bought when it came out). I was thinking about either getting a samsung 850 pro (150€) or an 850 Evo (80€) (both with 256gb). I'm more concerned about longevity than speed, but I'm not sure if the price difference is worth it. Or are there better choices?

I remember reading in several reviews that the amount of reads and writes a current gen SSD can do in its life time is so much you could literally write the entire drive full of data every day for several years before any problems.

I have a Crucial M500 480GB SSD. I got it in 2013. Its endurance is rated at "72TB total bytes written (TBW), equal to 40GB per day for 5 years". I believe that the latest Crucial SSDs have twice the endurance.

Modern SSDs from Intel, Samsung and Crucial are incredibly dependable.
 

ISee

Member
I have a Crucial M500 480GB SSD. I got it in 2013. Its endurance is rated at "72TB total bytes written (TBW), equal to 40GB per day for 5 years". I believe that the latest Crucial SSDs have twice the endurance.

Modern SSDs from Intel, Samsung and Crucial are incredibly dependable.

Thank you all I wanted to know :).

I remember reading in several reviews that the amount of reads and writes a current gen SSD can do in its life time is so much you could literally write the entire drive full of data every day for several years before any problems.

Also what does longevity mean to you? Considering the Pro is 2x the price, are you expecting it to be 2x as durable? How about you buy the EVO now, pocket the $80 and buy another EVO a few years from now. I bet that will get you much farther than the Pro and the amount of money would be similar.

Maybe not twice as durable but yes I expect it to hold out quite longer than an evo. But maybe you're right and I'm a bit too paranoid about it. I'll be going for a m2 on my next build anyway (probably) so you're right I'll get the evo (or something similar) now and use it as another ssd for games some time later. Your last sentence makes a lot of sense. thx.


EDIT:
Screw it. I cloned my old 64gb 830 to my 256 gb 830 and bought a new 500gb 850 evo for games.
 
Hey everyone. For those of you that have an ASUS Z170 Maximus VIII Ranger motherboard, how are you finding the 'board? Have you by any chance experienced the sound pop issue that has affected some of the ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming 'boards? See here:

https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?74188-Z170-Pro-Gaming-audio-popping-(Realtek-issue)&highlight=z170+sound

Thinking of maybe going with something with enthusiast features as I previously wanted to try out the Z170-K but I am willing to spend a bit more funds on a better 'board.
 
Alright, good luck with that Z170-K. Nothing really wrong with that parts list, but perhaps see how much 2666/2800/3000MHz RAM costs. If it's not that much more, consider going for it.

Thanks for the input once more, RGM :). The higher freq RAM does cost a bit more, I am just going to stick with the one which I have listed.
 

e90Mark

Member
Sigh, think one of the fans on my 980 ti is busted. Will spin up to about 60-70%, anything past it will just kinda stop spinning.

First my mobo, now this. Easily the worst luck I've had ever on a build. Hopefully the last exchange I have to do.
 
Lately when watching TV series on fullscreen the screen turns green after more than an hour, and all I can do is restart the PC. Is my GPU dying? I have an HD6870.

To be exactly sure, try using Furmark and Prime95, and benchmark it for an hour.
Do you have a completely green screen or does it disappear if you close down your Media Player?
 

RGM79

Member
Hello, im building my first pc in the next month and i wanted to know the quality of the build my friend made me. Its a budget build http://pcpartpicker.com/p/JWRDLk

Although it works, it's odd to be pairing the non-overclocking i5 4460 processor with an overclocking capable Z97 motherboard. Do you want the ability to overclock? Either move up to the i5 4690K processor or move down to a H81/B85/H97 motherboard.

That RAM is kind of expensive, there are better choices available.

I'd recommend a graphics card with 4GB of VRAM if possible. Just 2GB of VRAM will be a bottleneck as games at 1080p can already use up to 2GB of VRAM and somewhat more.

The Antec 300 V2 case is okay, but there are better choices available. It's a slightly updated older design that lacks cable management options.

That PSU is okay, but the price isn't. The EVGA 600B costs just a dollar more after rebate, for example.

Here's what I recommend if you're not overclocking and on the same budget.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($174.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($49.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($294.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $674.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-02 12:01 EST-0500

That build costs around the same but has a far stronger graphics card and better PSU. Yes, the motherboard is technically a downgrade from Z97, but will still meet your needs and will not affect performance. Otherwise for an overclocking capable parts list, I recommend this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($223.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($32.50 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($88.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($39.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 380 4GB PCS+ Video Card ($193.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $711.30
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-02 12:06 EST-0500

Yes, it costs a bit more and the graphics card isn't as strong, but the slightly better performing and overclockable i5 4690K will last longer and won't need to be replaced/upgraded as soon, especially if overclocked..
 
I was gonna use the fan of the intel. And i was gonna use my hd tv which is a weird brand that i cant find any info on.

Oh okay, well if you want to build a budget build that should be fine,
RGM79 made also some good suggestions, maybe you can get a lil' bit more for a buck, regarding PSU or GFX card.
 
Although it works, it's odd to be pairing the non-overclocking i5 4460 processor with an overclocking capable Z97 motherboard. Do you want the ability to overclock? Either move up to the i5 4690K processor or move down to a H81/B85/H97 motherboard.

That RAM is kind of expensive, there are better choices available.

I'd recommend a graphics card with 4GB of VRAM if possible. Just 2GB of VRAM will be a bottleneck as games at 1080p can already use up to 2GB of VRAM and somewhat more.

The Antec 300 V2 case is okay, but there are better choices available. It's a slightly updated older design that lacks cable management options.

That PSU is okay, but the price isn't. The EVGA 600B costs just a dollar more after rebate, for example.

Here's what I recommend if you're not overclocking and on the same budget.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($174.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($49.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($294.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $674.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-02 12:01 EST-0500

That build costs around the same but has a far stronger graphics card and better PSU. Yes, the motherboard is technically a downgrade from Z97, but will still meet your needs and will not affect performance. Otherwise for an overclocking capable parts list, I recommend this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($223.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($32.50 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($88.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($39.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 380 4GB PCS+ Video Card ($193.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $711.30
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-02 12:06 EST-0500

Yes, it costs a bit more and the graphics card isn't as strong, but the slightly better performing and overclockable i5 4690K will last longer and won't need to be replaced/upgraded as soon, especially if overclocked..
Huh that sounds good, especially since i have no idea how to overclock. Ive never really done anything with computers.
Also im mainly using my pc for gaming, video recording/editing, and schoolwork
 

kennah

Member
Frig Yes. Loop all done. Leak test passed. Booted on first go. 20 degrees C idle and 45 degrees C under load. Pictures in a bit.
 

Herne

Member
Although red drives are marketed as being for NAS use, you can just use them with any PC.

What country are you in? Toshiba and Hitachi are still widely available, unless you're not in North America or the EU?

I'm in Ireland, was checking Amazon and Pixmania and saw mostly only WD and Seagate. That was just a quick check before I went to bed, though - I knew if I wrote a post here I'd have people recommending drives to me :)

Avoid the Greens.

As for Seagate, in the past, they had 1 or 2 models which had major issues, but their recent drives have shown they are just as reliable was any other HDDs. Personally, I have used many Seagate HDDs without any problems so I have no worries buying them.

If you want them cheap, buy external drives, take them out of the case and install them in your case. Just google for which one to get. The only issue is no warranty if you mess up opening the case and can't cleanly put it back together.

I have owned drives from almost every manufacturer in the past, and Seagate used to be my favourite brand. If their latest drives are trouble free, then great, but the numerous reviews I'm seeing are turning me off them for now. Not fond of the external drives idea as I'd prefer to have the warranty, but thanks for the suggestion.

I suggest the Hitachi Deskstar NAS drives. I have the 6 TB one in my media PC. Been thinking of getting a second to run RAID 1. Yes, I'm aware that RAID is not a backup.

I remember when Hitachi bought the Deskstar series from IBM - I even had one of the last IBM drives before they were sold off, and yes, it went kaput pretty quickly. I've owned Hitachi drives since and not had any problems. I've just learned that they are now owned by Western Digital for which I trust them even more. I haven't found many of them on all the sites I checked, so I won't be going with them this time around, but thank you for replying and suggesting them.


Checking Komplett, Dabs, Scan and Overclockers I have found the better range that I thought should be out there. I am stuck now between the Western Digital Blue (5,400rpm, 64MB) and the Toshiba X300 (7,200rpm, 128MB). The X300 is surprisingly cheap, much cheaper than any other 4TB drive, selling for €137 on Dabs. I have no idea why it's so cheap - it's a very new drive, and reviews thus far are good, but there's no answer yet as to their long-term reliability. The Blue is selling on Komplett for €159.

Any ideas?
 

bodine1231

Member
Need a little advice. Below I have a picture of my current setup which includes the Acer XB270HU Gsync monitor and a smaller 23" Asus monitor. My TV is an 54" LG OLED. I play all my consoles as well as a majority of controller based PC games in Steam Big Picture on the Oled and games like Marvel 2015,Diablo and Heroes of the Storm which require mouse and keyboard I use my Acer.

I really would like to switch to a one monitor solution because having two takes up so much space and I think I would benifit more from the aspect ratio on the PC games I play with mouse and keyboard.

If I did get a widescreen it would be the Dell U3415W but I would have to sell the Acer to afford it and I'd be losing Gsync. What would you guys do? (I know about the Acer X34 but I cant afford that).

406D3D0D-B789-4656-A392-F2940C1CA70A_zpsv6ggynry.jpg
 
Need a little advice. Below I have a picture of my current setup which includes the Acer XB270HU Gsync monitor and a smaller 23" Asus monitor. My TV is an 54" LG OLED. I play all my consoles as well as a majority of controller based PC games in Steam Big Picture on the Oled and games like Marvel 2015,Diablo and Heroes of the Storm which require mouse and keyboard I use my Acer.

I really would like to switch to a one monitor solution because having two takes up so much space and I think I would benifit more from the aspect ratio on the PC games I play with mouse and keyboard.

If I did get a widescreen it would be the Dell U3415W but I would have to sell the Acer to afford it and I'd be losing Gsync. What would you guys do? (I know about the Acer X34 but I cant afford that).

406D3D0D-B789-4656-A392-F2940C1CA70A_zpsv6ggynry.jpg
I would just drop the 23" monitor personally.
 
Anybody know a tv brand called Westinghouse?

Yes, they're absolutely terrible. Almost anything would be better.

I had a small one (briefly) and the build quality, image quality and viewing angle were all atrocious. It served its purpose (a cheap testing TV) but it was the worst TV I've ever had the displeasure of using.
 

Blitzhex

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Frig Yes. Loop all done. Leak test passed. Booted on first go. 20 degrees C idle and 45 degrees C under load. Pictures in a bit.

I'm expecting mosfet water blocks, two 360 rads /w gentletyphoons, acrylic hard tubing, mayhems aurora dye and custom sleeved cables.
 
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