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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Sorry for the late reply!

I game at 1440p and my monitor is OC'd to 96 hz. I have the 980Ti

It would be an improvement but not a big one. There is a PC Per article that shows that it made the biggest difference at 1080p or at 1440p when using SLI, but a single GPU at 1440p was less dependent on the CPU.

That said, the Z170 platform has a lot of niceities.. so I think it could go either way. I have a 2500k, and if the price of the i7-6700k wasn't so insane right now I would probably upgrade (and I'm also running 1440p/non-SLI).

I still have my 2500k. How sarcastic is the thread title?
Not at all.
 

Big_Al

Unconfirmed Member
This is a silly, general question but in what ways does having more RAM in your system help it ? Does it in general just make things faster as your PC has more room to play with or is there anything in particular having more RAM helps with ?

My lovely dad got me 16gbs for xmas and it just seems faster overall, was just wondering for curiosity sake if there's anything specific having more RAM speeds up :)
 

OraleeWey

Member
This is a silly, general question but in what ways does having more RAM in your system help it ? Does it in general just make things faster as your PC has more room to play with or is there anything in particular having more RAM helps with ?

My lovely dad got me 16gbs for xmas and it just seems faster overall, was just wondering for curiosity sake if there's anything specific having more RAM speeds up :)
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but you only benefit from more RAM if you really need it. Otherwise it's wasted resources. Though 16gb is nice. I think The Witcher 3 recommends 8gb of RAM.
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but you only benefit from more RAM if you really need it. Otherwise it's wasted recourses. Though 16gb is nice. I think The Witcher 3 recommends 8gb of RAM.

You are right, unless you are actually using that ram, it's all wasted and waiting there doing nothing.

I know in gaming, if you get constant stutter with low ram, it's because the game is using your HD to cache data as virtual memory and THAT is when you need more ram.
 

Big_Al

Unconfirmed Member
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but you only benefit from more RAM if you really need it. Otherwise it's wasted recourses. Though 16gb is nice. I think The Witcher 3 recommends 8gb of RAM.

You are right, unless you are actually using that ram, it's all wasted and waiting there doing nothing.

I know in gaming, if you get constant stutter with low ram, it's because the game is using your HD to cache data as virtual memory and THAT is when you need more ram.


Thanks folks :)

I may be wrong about this but I remember reading that it helped with stuttering in Arkham Knight having more RAM. Still, nice to have anyway!
 

e90Mark

Member
Thinking about getting an M.2 drive in a 250/500 as a boot drive for fun. Is anyone using one right now and could tell me their experience with them?
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Only took three years. It's not Smokey level, but a beauty none the less.

Final Specs.

Case: Compact Splash

i7 3770K @ 3.9GHz
Gigabyte H67N-USB3-B3
8gig of Samsung Magic DDR3
128gig Samsung 830
240gig Kingston V300
EVGA GTX670 4gig
Silverstone SFX 450Bronze PSU

Cooling Specs:
XSPC EX240 and EX120
DDC Pump with EKWB XRES100
EKWB FC670 GPU waterblock
DazMode Special Muskoka Dark Blue Tube
Dazmode Special Canada EKWB CPU Waterblock
3x Yellow Silenx Fans
A shitload of fittings and angle adaptors.

I don't have an exact total, but I'm pretty sure I spent about $500US on the cooling by the end of it all.

This'll suit my needs just fine for quite a while. Looking forward to a GTX970 for cheap in a couple years (since the water block I have will fit on it). Other potential improvements will be a Gold rated modular PSU, Sleeved cables, and bigger SSDs.

But, I'm super happy that I finally did it.

Cool, quiet, and so attractive.

Good work, I like it.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Only took three years. It's not Smokey level, but a beauty none the less.

One of the hardest things I've done in computing is putting the water block on this GPU. I was so nervous.


Final Specs.

Case: Compact Splash

i7 3770K @ 3.9GHz
Gigabyte H67N-USB3-B3
8gig of Samsung Magic DDR3
128gig Samsung 830
240gig Kingston V300
EVGA GTX670 4gig
Silverstone SFX 450Bronze PSU

Cooling Specs:
XSPC EX240 and EX120
DDC Pump with EKWB XRES100
EKWB FC670 GPU waterblock
DazMode Special Muskoka Dark Blue Tube
Dazmode Special Canada EKWB CPU Waterblock
3x Yellow Silenx Fans
A shitload of fittings and angle adaptors.

I don't have an exact total, but I'm pretty sure I spent about $500US on the cooling by the end of it all.

This'll suit my needs just fine for quite a while. Looking forward to a GTX970 for cheap in a couple years (since the water block I have will fit on it). Other potential improvements will be a Gold rated modular PSU, Sleeved cables, and bigger SSDs.

But, I'm super happy that I finally did it.

Cool, quiet, and so attractive.
AN ABSOLUTE MADMAN
HE ACTUALLY DID IT
 

Dave_6

Member
Minor issue here, just curious if anyone knows what may be happening. My build is nearly three years old. My two drives are a 120GB Kingston SSD (for Windows, Steam etc) and the other is a WD Blue 1TB HD for nothing but games. The SSD is down to less than 5 GB of free space and the HD has ~180 GB left. Anyways, I leave the PC on for days at a time, up to two or three weeks without a shut down. I notice that after a few days it takes Steam quite a while to open, sometimes up to 30 to 40 seconds. Then once I click on a game to launch it, it can take the game just as long if not longer to start up. If I shut the PC down then start it back up the next morning, Steam and games will pretty much open/launch within 5 to 10 seconds. It will stay like that for a couple days then it gets slow again.
 
Minor issue here, just curious if anyone knows what may be happening. My build is nearly three years old. My two drives are a 120GB Kingston SSD (for Windows, Steam etc) and the other is a WD Blue 1TB HD for nothing but games. The SSD is down to less than 5 GB of free space and the HD has ~180 GB left. Anyways, I leave the PC on for days at a time, up to two or three weeks without a shut down. I notice that after a few days it takes Steam quite a while to open, sometimes up to 30 to 40 seconds. Then once I click on a game to launch it, it can take the game just as long if not longer to start up. If I shut the PC down then start it back up the next morning, Steam and games will pretty much open/launch within 5 to 10 seconds. It will stay like that for a couple days then it gets slow again.
I can't give you an exact answer but I wouldn't be surprised if it had something to do with the very small remaining space on the SSD. I would clear it out some and see if it improves.
 

RGM79

Member
Thank you for your insight and suggestions RGM. One question I had about the gpu, why did you choose to go with amd instead of an nvidia card. If I chose to go down that route how would things work out with the other components you suggested?

Oh, that was just to get the build under the $1000 budget you specified. As I understand it, the R9 390 and GTX 970 are quite well matched, but a decent GTX 970 would cost around $20 more than an R9 390. You shouldn't opt for the cheaper GTX 970s with boxy looks and single fan blower type coolers, those are somewhat loud and not as effective at cooling. Aim for a twin or triple fan open-type cooler. If you prefer the GTX 970 then that's fine, it's your choice if you want it and there would be no need to change out any other components.

Oh, one thing to note is that there's rumors of Rise of the Tomb Raider being bundled with Nvidia graphics card soon in the future. If you care about playing that game, you may want to wait for that promotion before buying a GTX 970. Or if you don't care about the game, wait anyway and then just sell the game code that comes with the graphics card.
 

Dave_6

Member
I can't give you an exact answer but I wouldn't be surprised if it had something to do with the very small remaining space on the SSD. I would clear it out some and see if it improves.

I failed to mention that I was wondering if that had something to do with it. I am planning on ordering a 250GB Samsung EVO as well as a 1TB one next week.
 

RGM79

Member
I failed to mention that I was wondering if that had something to do with it. I am planning on ordering a 250GB Samsung EVO as well as a 1TB one next week.

What's your RAM usage like? Comparing a fresh restart to when it feels bogged down, I mean. Obviously you might not know that right off the bat, but depending on what programs you have running, your PC could be chugging if RAM usage is high after not rebooting for days or weeks. The next time it happens, maybe open task manager and check what your RAM usage is like, or if there's a program or two that's leaking memory usage.
 

Dave_6

Member
What's your RAM usage like? Comparing a fresh restart to when it feels bogged down, I mean. Obviously you might not know that right off the bat, but depending on what programs you have running, your PC could be chugging if RAM usage is high after not rebooting for days or weeks. The next time it happens, maybe open task manager and check what your RAM usage is like, or if there's a program or two that's leaking memory usage.

Ok I'll check that too. Anything in particular I need to look out for? This is the only PC I've ever built.
 
Just want to be sure before I go ahead and order these parts for gaming purpose:

ASRock H97M Pro4
Intel Core i5-4690K Devil's Canyon Quad-Core 3.5 GHz LGA 1150
G.SKILL Ares Series 8GB (2x4) F3-1600C9D-8GAB x 2 = 16GB (4 sticks)
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO

Already have:
550 watt power supply
Nvidia 650 Ti Boost
Computer case (fits the motherboard)
Samsung 840 Evo 250GB SSD (and HDDs)

Budget's $600-700 (Canadian)

I want the motherboard and CPU to last for 6-8 years. I plan to upgrade the GPU (and maybe RAM) later. Don't care for SLI/Crossfire support.
Am I good? They're compatible right? Should I go ahead and order? Something I should know I'm not aware of?
 

crash-14

Member
it's it possibly to build a pc with 500$ that plays most of the games at 1080p/60fps with slightly better graphics than Xbox One, PS4?
 
Just want to be sure before I go ahead and order these parts:

ASRock H97M Pro4
Intel Core i5-4590K Devil's Canyon Quad-Core 3.5 GHz LGA 1150
G.SKILL Ares Series 8GB (2x4) F3-1600C9D-8GAB x 2 = 16GB (4 sticks)
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO

Already have:
550 watt power supply
Nvidia 650 Ti Boost
Computer case (fits the motherboard)

Budget's $600-700 (Canadian)

I want the motherboard and CPU to last for 6-8 years. I plan to upgrade the GPU (and maybe RAM) later.
Am I good? Should I go ahead and order? Something I should know I'm not aware of?
There's no 4590k. Do you mean 4690k? If so you want a Z97 board for overclocking. I would also go with Asus or Gigabyte personally. Wait a little bit before ordering.

Edit: if you're serious about wanting 6 to 9 years out of your CPU, go for the 4790k. And do you not already have ram you can reuse?
 
There's no 4590k. Do you mean 4690k? If so you want a Z97 board for overclocking. I would also go with Asus or Gigabyte personally. Wait a little bit before ordering.

Edit: if you're serious about wanting 6 to 9 years out of your CPU, go for the 4790k. And do you not already have ram you can reuse?

Meant 4690k. Typo. RAM I currently have's very old. DDR2. Alright I'll check out the Z97 ASUS/Gigabyte boards.

Edit:
Is this board fine?
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128727
 

Frenden

Banned
I have sort of a unique situation, build wise. I am a freelance concept artist and need a system with a few internal drives for ease of backup and storing very large graphics files.

Stability is almost as important as performance, so I'd be willing to trade bleeding edge for solid and reliable hardware.

I'm an experienced system builder, but mostly in the '90s through about 2008--I've been Mac since then but am defecting back to Windows. I can either build or buy, depending. I'm open to either. I just want something capable of pushing Photoshop/Painter/Blender/Zbrush (and playing games well would be nice too, but a secondary concern).

I really, really appreciate the help. I'm a few years out of the loop processor and memory and video card wise. I used to stay on top of things, but I've been doing more drawing than anything lately and know you guys know better'n me!

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Changed my build. It's now:

MSI Z170A PC MATE
Intel Core i5-6600K 6M Skylake Quad-Core 3.5 GHz
CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 2666 CMK16GX4M2A2666C16

$800 total (Canadian). Yes, I changed my budget from 700 to 800. Won't be overclocking much (maybe .3-.5 more GHz) so I don't mind the MSI Z170A motherboard.
 
it's it possibly to build a pc with 500$ that plays most of the games at 1080p/60fps with slightly better graphics than Xbox One, PS4?

It depends on what Game you're trying to play at 60 fps. But I can pretty much say without a doubt for most modern games, no chance. Most consoles do 30fps outside of a few small titles. You're asking to get 2x+ the performance for 500.

The best thing to look at is something like digital foundry's fallout 4 budget build and comparison video. I think for $500 they managed to get slightly above console settings at around 40 fps.

https://youtu.be/iipDWbd6HNg

Now the parts you can choose from may have changed slightly so YMMV as they could be better or worse. But essentially you can expect something around that level of performance with the right components. The plus side is you can always upgrade later.
 

crash-14

Member
It depends on what Game you're trying to play at 60 fps. But I can pretty much say without a doubt for most modern games, no chance. Most consoles do 30fps outside of a few small titles. You're asking to get 2x+ the performance for 500.

The best thing to look at is something like digital foundry's fallout 4 budget build and comparison video. I think for $500 they managed to get slightly above console settings at around 40 fps.

https://youtu.be/iipDWbd6HNg

Now the parts you can choose from may have changed slightly so YMMV as they could be better or worse. But essentially you can expect something around that level of performance with the right components. The plus side is you can always upgrade later.

what you think about this one www.pccomponentes.com/pccly/E335DcF5 ?
 

hateradio

The Most Dangerous Yes Man
I just returned my monitor.

RIP G-SYNC. I hardly knew ye.

However, now I'm thinking of getting the ROG Swift. Someone stop me.

Snap, forgot to add that it is the Ranger board in my post, but thanks for the feedback :).The boards are nearly identical, so I will not really be upset if I experience the same issue you have listed with your Hero board. May I ask, do you get a random 'pop' noise whenever you open and close your audio channels? For example, when a Windows sound plays, do you hear a pop before it starts and pop when it ends?
No, it pops intermittently.

I tried to record my headphones with my phone.

RFfDFA6.png


http://vocaroo.com/i/s0SOyw7RyGvQ

As you can see, the normal audio is pretty low, but the pops are really loud.

If you click on the link you can hear the pops. It may not sound as disruptive since the audio is a bit low. However, it really is a problem.
 

kennah

Member
I have sort of a unique situation, build wise. I am a freelance concept artist and need a system with a few internal drives for ease of backup and storing very large graphics files.

Stability is almost as important as performance, so I'd be willing to trade bleeding edge for solid and reliable hardware.

I'm an experienced system builder, but mostly in the '90s through about 2008--I've been Mac since then but am defecting back to Windows. I can either build or buy, depending. I'm open to either. I just want something capable of pushing Photoshop/Painter/Blender/Zbrush (and playing games well would be nice too, but a secondary concern).

I really, really appreciate the help. I'm a few years out of the loop processor and memory and video card wise. I used to stay on top of things, but I've been doing more drawing than anything lately and know you guys know better'n me!

Thanks in advance for any advice.

we need a budget, friend
 
I'm in sort of a confusing pickle, seeing as how I'm not the most competent with computer tech lol. So here's my situation:

First, I should note that this is for a friend who cannot build a PC himself nor does he have access to a local spot to do it for him. I'm trying to help him make this purchase, so I was referred to NCIX.com for them to build the PC for him, then ship it for ~$50. As for intended uses, some light gaming, some video editing for gameplay. Melee and Project M on Dolphin is the most intensive graphics needed.

$700-800 budget, no monitor/kb etc. needed. And what's this about NCIX, I see they're a Canadian-based company, so would my friend have difficulty shipping to California?
 
I just returned my monitor.

RIP G-SYNC. I hardly knew ye.

However, now I'm thinking of getting the ROG Swift. Someone stop me.


No, it pops intermittently.

I tried to record my headphones with my phone.

RFfDFA6.png


http://vocaroo.com/i/s0SOyw7RyGvQ

As you can see, the normal audio is pretty low, but the pops are really loud.

If you click on the link you can hear the pops. It may not sound as disruptive since the audio is a bit low. However, it really is a problem.

Did you have the Acer XB270HU IPS model?
 

Dave_6

Member
What are your PC's specs? What model of Kingston SSD do you have?

i5-3570K @ 4.4
Corsair H60
MSI MPower Z77 mobo
Samsung RAM 8GB
Gigabyte G1 970 (not overclocked)
Seasonic 620W PS
Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5" SSD
WD Caviar Blue 1TB 7200 rpm HD

Also using a Corsair K65 RGB keyboard with their software running all the time. GeForce Experience is also running most of the time.
 

hateradio

The Most Dangerous Yes Man
Did you have the Acer XB270HU IPS model?
No, the 24" TN.

I just couldn't deal with the awful black levels at that price point.


I surmise that one with IPS would be better, like the Asus PG279Q ROG Swift. If there were a nice deal on the Predator, I would probably go for it. :p

At this point, though, I think I'll just get an IPS screen and wait for G-SYNC to become affordable.

I just need to find a monitor/HDTV with great black levels.
 
No, the 24" TN.

I just couldn't deal with the awful black levels at that price point.


I surmise that one with IPS would be better, like the Asus PG279Q ROG Swift. If there were a nice deal on the Predator, I would probably go for it. :p

At this point, though, I think I'll just get an IPS screen and wait for G-SYNC to become affordable.

I just need to find a monitor/HDTV with great black levels.

I'm using a Samsung JS9000 as my monitor right now and the picture quality is breathtaking and has relatively low response time and input lag (20ms). But I have to sell it as I'm moving and don't have space ; _ ; so I was considering the Acer XB270HU after I sell the TV. I'll wait for a deal though.
 

hateradio

The Most Dangerous Yes Man
I'm using a Samsung JS9000 as my monitor right now and the picture quality is breathtaking and has relatively low response time and input lag (20ms). But I have to sell it as I'm moving and don't have space ; _ ; so I was considering the Acer XB270HU after I sell the TV. I'll wait for a deal though.
This other gaffer has it, and said the black levels are good.

It's pretty much in line with the ROG Swift, tech-wise, but I think it's personal choice at this point for me.
 
I'm planning on upgrading my video card at some point this year, probably when the next set of nvidia cards release.

With 8GB ram and i7-2700k I shouldn't need to worry about those being bottlenecks at just 1080p I hope.

My main thing is I want to play games at 120/144 FPS where possible. I love the smooth motion and am willing to drop settings to improve framerate for FPS games and action games.
 
I need help with a problem that happened to my pc recently. My screen turned purple out of nowhere in the right side and then froze. I restarted my pc and it was never the same again. I load it and my resolution is low despite device manager detecting my gtx 580 gpu. There is a notification icon on it however saying Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. Anyone know how to fix this?
 

kennah

Member
I need help with a problem that happened to my pc recently. My screen turned purple out of nowhere in the right side and then froze. I restarted my pc and it was never the same again. I load it and my resolution is low despite device manager detecting my gtx 580 gpu. There is a notification icon on it however saying Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. Anyone know how to fix this?

Your GPU died.
 
Your GPU died.

Dam I was afraid that was the case. Right now I just need a cheap ok gpu, mainly because I need to use photoshop and other adobe products. I also can't use an integrated gpu since my motherboard does not support it. I am looking at these two right now, what do you think? Is it a good choice?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-ge...lver/1700586.p?id=1218282103132&skuId=1700586

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-ge...lver/1700647.p?id=1218282105105&skuId=1700647
 

Blitzhex

Member
Finally OCing my 2500k, so far so good. Is 1 hour in OCCT still a good benchmark or should I go at it longer?

10+ hours of prime95 for sandybridge for basic stability, or as long as you can be away from your pc. Run it overnight and when you're at work etc. As long as you have set manual voltages, they won't spike to dangerous levels through the course of the bench and the pc would simply freeze or reboot from instability.
Next, you should expect your pc to crash through casual gaming and usage over the next week and be ready to up the voltages when it does. It takes a lot of testing for a oc to be stable unless you've severely overvolted from the start. I like to find the perfect/minimum voltages for stability because heat.
 

hateradio

The Most Dangerous Yes Man
Dam I was afraid that was the case. Right now I just need a cheap ok gpu, mainly because I need to use photoshop and other adobe products. I also can't use an integrated gpu since my motherboard does not support it. I am looking at these two right now, what do you think? Is it a good choice?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-gef...&skuId=1700586

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-gef...&skuId=1700647
Those are pretty old cards.

But the 8400GS seems a touch better?

http://gpuboss.com/gpus/GeForce-8400-GS-PCI-vs-GeForce-210


Sorting by prices lower than $40, here are a few different options.

https://pcpartpicker.com/parts/video-card/#X=0,3933&sort=a3&page=1

Seems like the GT 720 is the best card of the ones I see there. ($50, but $40 after rebate.)

http://gpuboss.com/gpus/GeForce-GT-720-vs-GeForce-8400-GS-PCI

https://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-n7201gd3hlp
 
10+ hours of prime95 for sandybridge for basic stability, or as long as you can be away from your pc. Run it overnight and when you're at work etc. As long as you have set manual voltages, they won't spike to dangerous levels through the course of the bench and the pc would simply freeze or reboot from instability.
Next, you should expect your pc to crash through casual gaming and usage over the next week and be ready to up the voltages when it does. It takes a lot of testing for a oc to be stable unless you've severely overvolted from the start. I like to find the perfect/minimum voltages for stability because heat.

Roger that, I'll go turn off the heater for my room for tonight :p
 
So my New Year's resolution is to dive head first into finally building my first PC. I've got my build pretty much ironed out going from the build guides, but I'm agonizing over a decision. I was pretty much dead set on getting the Fractal R4 as my case for an enthusiast build. All in all it sounds like a really nice case, sound dampening seems great and it has great user reviews. The only thing is it looks it a bit boring, which should be the least of my concerns. Anyway, today I saw a really good review of a Zalman Z11 NEO case on Tom's Hardware. The build quality probably isn't nearly as good as the Fractal, but I like the way it looks and nothing looks shoddy about it. Would I be committing a first pc gaming build sin if I bought this case over the Fractal R4?
 

El_Chino

Member
Hey guys, my step dad needs a new pc for his office.

It'll be mostly for Microsoft Office/Skype/ and some photo editing.

It'll also be used for some light 1080p gaming.

Budget is preferably around $700 or so.
 
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