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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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RGM79

Member
Oh yea sure

Budget: I'd like to stay around $1000 but I'd be willing to go up to $1100 US
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: 5-Gaming, 4-General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).3-Emulation (PS2/Wii) , 2-Streaming games in HD, 1-Video Editing
Monitor Resolution: Since I don't have the space currently I'd be using my 32in TV as my main display
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I'd like to run most new games at 60fps but its not that big of a deal. I play alot of mmos on and off so running something like Blade and Soul and Marvel Heroes maxed out would be nice
When will you build?: I wanted to at least have my parts purchased before the end of January
Will you be overclocking?: No

Here, this will work for you as you won't be overclocking. You can even drop the Hyper 212 Evo CPU cooler if you don't mind slightly more fan noise and higher temperatures.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI B150M MORTAR Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($38.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($319.98 @ NCIX US)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($43.26 @ Mac Mall)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($62.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1005.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-20 01:42 EST-0500


So my XFX Radeon 390X arrived today, and... surprise! It doesn't fit in my 8-year-old case.

What would you folks recommend as a replacement? It needs to host an ATX mobo and be roomy enough for this gigantic video card. Ideally I'd like to be able to buy it on Amazon Prime, too :) .

Are you looking for any specific features or aesthetics? Do you have a budget in mind?

oh whoops, my bad

CPU cooler is Zalman CNPS8700 LED CPU Cooler

PSU is Cooler Master Silent Pro M 700W

Okay, those parts are fine and and will be small enough fit in the cases I mentioned earlier.

So I'm trying to decide on a CPU cooler and I've narrowed it down to these guys:

Corsair H105 ($140)
Corsair H100i GTX ($140)
Corsair H110i GTX ($145)
NZXT Kraken X61 ($160)

All prices are Canadian dollars. I'm looking for whatever is the most quiet. According to pcpartpicker they all fit in my case, is there anything else I should be cautious of while deciding on a CPU cooler?

This shit is so confusing. Save me PC GAF :(

If you're looking for silence then get a Noctua air cooler, either the NH-D15 ($110) or NH-D15S ($100). The Noctua CPU coolers offer still excellent performance including extremely low noise for a much lower price. Or if you're overclocking and price is no budget, any of those water coolers with Noctua fans replacing the stock fans will be the best solution for low noise.

So if I already have win 10 installed on my hardrive, how do I get my new rig to run it?

You're transferring Windows 10 from your old PC to your new PC? Did you obtain Windows 10 by upgrading from Windows 7/8/8.1 or did you buy Windows 10? If it's the former ("digital entitlement"), then you cannot do that as Windows is tied to the hardware it was on when you activated the upgrade. If it's the latter, then you will need to contact Microsoft support to get help reactivating Windows on the new PC.
 

Oscar

Member
So I initially built my first PC back in 2011 and never upgraded it.

i7-2600k
580 GTX
Z77-GD65 Mobo
850W PSU
8GB Ram

Last night I ordered a new video card, an R9 390. Will my rig be ok? I've heard terms like "bottleneck" be used.
 
So I initially built my first PC back in 2011 and never upgraded it.

i7-2600k
580 GTX
Z77-GD65 Mobo
850W PSU
8GB Ram

Last night I ordered a new video card, an R9 390. Will my rig be ok? I've heard terms like "bottleneck" be used.

You'll be absolutely fine. Make sure to overclock that CPU though, don't let those extra power go to waste.
 
I have been wondering this for a while. It has been a long time since I have really looked into getting another SSD.

I bought one a while back when it was £1/GB. I have a 120GB OCZ Agility 3 as my boot drive and it does the job, the question I am wondering is have SSDs gotten noticeably better than my Agility 3? Or is it negligible?
 

wiibomb

Member
sorry for bothering anyone, I'm a developer myself, but I'm not too good on the hardware aspect of the PCs since my main focus is the programming aspect.

right now I'm looking for a $1000-$1100 PC for gaming, general use and if I could, use Unity to learn some gaming development, I've been looking at this website for some guidance, right now I'm looking at the outstanding category for building my PC, but I'm afraid I build a wrong PC or nor good enough, so I have some questions:

would following that page be ok or should I follow another pages?
are the parts picked there good enough?
should the outstanding category be enough to keep my PC well for the next couple of years?
also, if I would want to change the graphic card from a 970 to a 980, what would be the main changes I could notice?

thank you very much for any help.
 

Akai__

Member
Sorry if this is a silly and OT question, but I don't know where else to ask and I didn't want to make a new thread. :/

Is there a way to connect a Controller to two devices at the same time? In my case, I want to connect a Xbox One controller to the Xbox One and to the PC. I found a cool tool, that reads out controller inputs, but it obviously only works on PC's. Is this possible with a USB Splitter?
 

bomblord1

Banned
Currently working on a mini-ITX build was wondering about this mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130880

13-130-880-TS


MSI Gaming Z170I Gaming Pro AC $169.99
The main reason I'm considering it are
1. Built in Wifi and bluetooth 4.2 (a huge plus)
2. It comes with a free DDR4 8GB ram stick. (a massive plus even if the price is a little higher than boards without the ram)

I know a lot of you guys on here know a lot about different brands/series of components just wanted to be sure there's no serious issues here.
 
Currently working on a mini-ITX build was wondering about this mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130880

13-130-880-TS


MSI Gaming Z170I Gaming Pro AC $149.99
The main reason I'm considering it are
1. Built in Wifi and bluetooth 4.2 (a huge plus)
2. It comes with a free DDR4 8GB ram stick. (a massive plus even if the price is a little higher than boards without the ram)

I know a lot of you guys on here know a lot about different brands/series of components just wanted to be sure there's no serious issues here.

Should be decent, drivers should be available on the MSI site or provided via Driver CD.
Go ahead. What CPU do you want to use?
 
That's for AMD cards right? I have a G1 970

Did you find anything new regarding your issue?

Nope I looked last night and it had defaulted to stock settings. I can't find a place to save it as a user or at an account level. The language on the page makes it seem like the tweaks only last for the game your running, so I'm not sure.

edit: Sorry ya that was for a amd 390 in the crimson app.
 

Lunar FC

Member
You're transferring Windows 10 from your old PC to your new PC? Did you obtain Windows 10 by upgrading from Windows 7/8/8.1 or did you buy Windows 10? If it's the former ("digital entitlement"), then you cannot do that as Windows is tied to the hardware it was on when you activated the upgrade. If it's the latter, then you will need to contact Microsoft support to get help reactivating Windows on the new PC.

Yes everything is new except for my hardrive and power supply. I went from win 8>8.1>10. So you're basically saying I can't use the os on my hardrive? Wtf am I supposed to do? What does everybody else do when they build a new pc?
 

wiibomb

Member
Currently working on a mini-ITX build was wondering about this mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130880

13-130-880-TS


MSI Gaming Z170I Gaming Pro AC $149.99
The main reason I'm considering it are
1. Built in Wifi and bluetooth 4.2 (a huge plus)
2. It comes with a free DDR4 8GB ram stick. (a massive plus even if the price is a little higher than boards without the ram)

I know a lot of you guys on here know a lot about different brands/series of components just wanted to be sure there's no serious issues here.

would this be compatible with a i5 6600K or a i7 6700K? could this mobo replace this one?
 

LilJoka

Member
Currently working on a mini-ITX build was wondering about this mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130880

13-130-880-TS


MSI Gaming Z170I Gaming Pro AC $169.99
The main reason I'm considering it are
1. Built in Wifi and bluetooth 4.2 (a huge plus)
2. It comes with a free DDR4 8GB ram stick. (a massive plus even if the price is a little higher than boards without the ram)

I know a lot of you guys on here know a lot about different brands/series of components just wanted to be sure there's no serious issues here.

Great board, but if you are overclocking i recommend the Asus Z170I Pro ITX

Heres what Bit tech said about the MSI
Overclocking and EFI
We had issues with our initial overclocking exploits with the Z170I Gaming Pro AC in that despite hitting 4.8GHz, we couldn't make this stick, with the CPU dropping down to sub 4GHz levels despite never rising above 70 degrees. Thankfully, MSI pointed us in the right direction, which were the power and current limits, which are set pretty agressively by default.

The BIOS version 1.2 currently has these issues, and this is the latest shown on its website, but MSI provided us with a newer 1.33 version and this solved the problem at a stroke, so it's definitely worth updating to this if you'll be gunning for a maximum overclock.

Sadly, once we fixed the throttling issue, we still could only reach 4.6GHz, despite trying fixed and adaptive modes as well as vcores over 1.4V - nothing allowed us to get through our tougher rendering tests without issues, even at 4.7GHz. This isn't a result to be sniffed at, though, as 4.6GHz is a sensible overclock to run 24/7 anyway, and we needed just 1.32V to get there.

Asus has a proper M.2 slot to fit SSDs etc, and also has USB 3.1. It only has Blutooth v4.1 though.
 

bomblord1

Banned
Great board, but if you are overclocking i recommend the Asus Z170I Pro ITX

Heres what Bit tech said about the MSI


Asus has a proper M.2 slot to fit SSDs etc, and also has USB 3.1. It only has Blutooth v4.1 though.

Yea I don't intend to overclock so that's not really a concern thanks for the info though. Any chance for a link to the full review there?
 

wiibomb

Member
Yea it's an LGA 1151 but it's a mini ITX board why are you looking to replace the other one?

not exactly looking to replace it, more to buy that one instead of the other.

the main attractive I see is the built in wi-fi and bluetooth, that is huge for me.

my original post for more context:

sorry for bothering anyone, I'm a developer myself, but I'm not too good on the hardware aspect of the PCs since my main focus is the programming aspect.

right now I'm looking for a $1000-$1100 PC for gaming, general use and if I could, use Unity to learn some gaming development, I've been looking at this website for some guidance, right now I'm looking at the outstanding category for building my PC, but I'm afraid I build a wrong PC or nor good enough, so I have some questions:

would following that page be ok or should I follow another pages?
are the parts picked there good enough?
should the outstanding category be enough to keep my PC well for the next couple of years?
also, if I would want to change the graphic card from a 970 to a 980, what would be the main changes I could notice?

thank you very much for any help.
 

bomblord1

Banned
not exactly looking to replace it, more to buy that one instead of the other.

the main attractive I see is the built in wi-fi and bluetooth, that is huge for me.

my original post for more context:

Yup it'll fit those CPU's just keep in mind it's a mini ITX board (super small) with only 2 ram slots and 1 PCI-E Slot for a GPU and as someone said above me it takes some tweaking to get the OC working.

Free Ram though.

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2015/10/21/msi-z170i-gaming-pro-ac-review/1

Yeah theres nothing really wrong with the board other than what i mentioned. I would only get the MSI if you really need bluetooth 4.2, otherwise no reason to get the Asus - which is what im getting ;)

Thanks!
 

wiibomb

Member
Yup it'll fit those CPU's just keep in mind it's a mini ITX board (super small) with only 2 ram slots and 1 PCI-E Slot for a GPU and as someone said above me it takes some tweaking to get the OC working.

Free Ram though.

since this will be the first PC I'll be building, I'll just stcik to the normal one... I'll miss the RAM and wi-fi, though :(
 

e90Mark

Member
I just switched internet plans from DSL to Cable.

What modem and router should I buy?

How is this for modem? ARRIS SURFboard SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem - Retail Packaging - White http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHDZSI/?tag=neogaf0e-20 $70

I need a router too, but the router bundle with the ARRIS SURFboard is $180!

That SB6141 is pretty much the standard for DOCSIS 3.0. I have a 6121 and it's solid.

If you're buying a new router, might as well go with something AC.
 

Jazzem

Member
Heya, so I'm using the 'Great - Best Value' build (ie this one) in the OP as a starting point for building a new PC. My budget is about £650 for the desktop itself and £200 for everything else, with a bit of wiggle room.

I basically want to run near everything at high/max settings, 1080p + 60fps, which includes games released currently and for the next couple of years. Also want to be able to run Dolphin at 1080p consistently. So with that in mind, just some queries I have:

1) A friend insisted I go for a bronze corsair power supply, any agreements/disagreements? And do you reckon 550 will be enough?
2) What are the best RAM brands to look for? That same friend recommended I try get the RAM free, either with a motherboard or another component. Will see on that as I want to go for 16GB, whether that's two 8GBs or one 16GB.
3) I reckon I'll go for the i5 4460 4C/4T CPU (non-K version) that's not overclockable. Reckon that would suffice?
4) Thinking of going for the AMD R9 290 4GB graphics card? Or would 280 3GB likely be enough for what I want?
5) Thinking of going for 120GB SSD for OS, any recommended brands? I'll also go for a 750GB/1TB HDD for everything else.

Big thanks for any help in advance, and please excuse my naivete on the subject :p
 

Deadly

Member
I'm having some, what I assume are, video card problems. Right after the windows logo loading it gives me a BSOD related to 'nvlddmkm.sys'. Google says that it's nvidia-related so I uninstalled all drivers with Display Driver Uninstaller and rebooted. Without anything it works fine but I downloaded the latest set of drivers and installed those and after rebooting, I encountered the same BSOD again.

Anyone encountered this before? Tips?
 

bomblord1

Banned
Heya, so I'm using the 'Great - Best Value' build (ie this one) in the OP as a starting point for building a new PC. My budget is about £650 for the desktop itself and £200 for everything else, with a bit of wiggle room.

I basically want to run near everything at high/max settings, 1080p + 60fps, which includes games released currently and for the next couple of years. Also want to be able to run Dolphin at 1080p consistently. So with that in mind, just some queries I have:

1) A friend insisted I go for a bronze corsair power supply, any agreements/disagreements? And do you reckon 550 will be enough?
2) What are the best RAM brands to look for? That same friend recommended I try get the RAM free, either with a motherboard or another component. Will see on that as I want to go for 16GB, whether that's two 8GBs or one 16GB.
3) I reckon I'll go for the i5 4460 4C/4T CPU (non-K version) that's not overclockable. Reckon that would suffice?
4) Thinking of going for the AMD R9 290 4GB graphics card? Or would 280 3GB likely be enough for what I want?
5) Thinking of going for 120GB SSD for OS, any recommended brands? I'll also go for a 750MB/1TB HDD for everything else.

Big thanks for any help in advance, and please excuse my naivete on the subject :p

1. Always get a minimum of a bronze 80 power supply. Considering the build I would think 550 watts would be enough (but pushing it a little) higher is always better it doesn't actually consume more power than a lesser one (unless the lesser one was incapable of powering the components in the first place)
2. I've seen ram come with components in bundles on newegg or as free gifts before although I've never seen 16GB of it in one free gift.
3.I would say the CPU's recommended there are a little outdated you can get 6th gen CPU's for the same price/less that use DDR4 ram and should perform better overall.
4. Would it be "enough" I can run a ton of games on high at 1080p with a 280 3GB but if you can afford the better one I would always recommend shooting for the better one unless the price/perf ratio is just ridiculously bad (which it isn't in this case) it should last you longer as well and is VR ready according to Occulus. Don't forget the 380 and 390 are out now they're slightly better so if it comes down to the same or similar price go for the newer one.
5. Definitely don't get a 750MB HDD :p. Now as for the dual setup that's exactly what I do 120GB SSD for Windows and apps and a bigger drive for games. So yes, do that it's a great setup that gets you the best of both worlds (fast boot and large capacity)
 

RGM79

Member
sorry for bothering anyone, I'm a developer myself, but I'm not too good on the hardware aspect of the PCs since my main focus is the programming aspect.

right now I'm looking for a $1000-$1100 PC for gaming, general use and if I could, use Unity to learn some gaming development, I've been looking at this website for some guidance, right now I'm looking at the outstanding category for building my PC, but I'm afraid I build a wrong PC or nor good enough, so I have some questions:

would following that page be ok or should I follow another pages?
are the parts picked there good enough?
should the outstanding category be enough to keep my PC well for the next couple of years?
also, if I would want to change the graphic card from a 970 to a 980, what would be the main changes I could notice?

thank you very much for any help.
since this will be the first PC I'll be building, I'll just stcik to the normal one... I'll miss the RAM and wi-fi, though :(
Their part recommendations are sometimes alright, but we can do part recommendations based on current best pricing for you. Going from a GTX 970 to a GTX 980 yields a small 10~20% performance improvement, generally it's not worth the extra cost. It's also possible for a overclocked GTX 970 to match a stock GTX 980 (depending on games and drivers and how far the card is overclocked of course), so we don't really recommend the GTX 980.

If you want a $1000~1100 PC, I recommend this parts list. Of course, if you want to have anything changed, that can be done.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($115.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($46.97 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($319.98 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($66.50 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1038.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-20 13:41 EST-0500

An mITX motherboard isn't what you want unless you're aiming for a super compact PC. For first time builders, a larger motherboard and case will be easier to build in. This parts list includes RAM, wifi, and bluetooth.

Yes everything is new except for my hardrive and power supply. I went from win 8>8.1>10. So you're basically saying I can't use the os on my hardrive? Wtf am I supposed to do? What does everybody else do when they build a new pc?

Correct, you cannot activate that license of Windows with a different PC. You can get a new Windows license. If they have a retail copy of Windows, it can be transferred to another PC, if they don't then they will need a new Windows license.

If you're worried about costs, then consider getting a cheap Windows license from Reddit. Here's my usual disclaimer on that:

Cheap Windows licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for cheap, around $15 USD or less. Windows 10 licenses are also available for a bit more. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or MSDNAA/Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months. The 7/8/8.1 keys should be upgradeable to Windows 10, but confirm with the seller to be sure, of course.​

Heya, so I'm using the 'Great - Best Value' build (ie this one) in the OP as a starting point for building a new PC. My budget is about £650 for the desktop itself and £200 for everything else, with a bit of wiggle room.

I basically want to run near everything at high/max settings, 1080p + 60fps, which includes games released currently and for the next couple of years. Also want to be able to run Dolphin at 1080p consistently. So with that in mind, just some queries I have:

1) A friend insisted I go for a bronze corsair power supply, any agreements/disagreements? And do you reckon 550 will be enough?
2) What are the best RAM brands to look for? That same friend recommended I try get the RAM free, either with a motherboard or another component. Will see on that as I want to go for 16GB, whether that's two 8GBs or one 16GB.
3) I reckon I'll go for the i5 4460 4C/4T CPU (non-K version) that's not overclockable. Reckon that would suffice?
4) Thinking of going for the AMD R9 290 4GB graphics card? Or would 280 3GB likely be enough for what I want?
5) Thinking of going for 120GB SSD for OS, any recommended brands? I'll also go for a 750MB/1TB HDD for everything else.

Big thanks for any help in advance, and please excuse my naivete on the subject :p

What parts are you looking at already? Do you have a list in mind?

1. Depends what model it is. We try not to recommend Corsair's CX line if possible, they're not that great.
2. Brand doesn't matter so much as the speed and latency does. I don't know why your friend insists on getting "free RAM" bundled with another part.
3. That processor is alright, but you may want to consider getting the newer i5 6500 if you can fit it into your budget. Keep in mind that the i5 4460 and i5 6500 aren't compatible with the same motherboard chipset and RAM.
4. Unless you're looking at used graphics cards at a low price, the R9 290 and R9 280 are discontinued and they are no longer recommended. For the UK, skinflint.co.uk is a great comparison shopping website for computer parts and it tells me that the newer R9 390 can be had for the same price as an R9 290, and the same goes for the R9 380 and R9 280. Also consider the GTX 970 and GTX 960 4GB. Nvidia is preferable for lower power consumption in case you go with a lower end power supply.
5. If you can go for a 240~256GB SSD instead, we'd recommend it. My experience is that 120GB can fill up rather quickly unless you strictly only keep Windows and maybe a few programs on it.

Edit: Here's a preliminary parts list for you to look at that fits into your £650 budget.

http://imgur.com/uq7FflO
1 x Western Digital WD Blue 1TB, 64MB cache, SATA 6Gb/s (WD10EZEX)
1 x Samsung SSD 850 Evo 250GB, SATA (MZ-75E250B)
1 x Intel Core i5-6500, 4x 3.20GHz, boxed (BX80662I56500)
1 x Crucial DIMM kit 8GB, DDR4-2133, CL15-15-15 (CT2K4G4DFS8213)
1 x Sapphire Radeon R9 380 Dual-X, 2GB GDDR5, 2x DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort, lite retail (11242-02-20G)
1 x MSI B150M Mortar (7972-002R)
1 x SilverStone Precision PS08 black (SST-PS08B)
1 x XFX TS Series 550W ATX 2.31 (P1-550S-GREN)
1 x Microsoft: Windows 10 Home 64bit, DSP/SB (English) (PC) (KW9-00139)
Total of all best prices: £ 647.75

I can't be certain if the prices for the parts include VAT or shipping, so the total might be a bit higher.
 

Anth0ny

Member
What CPU and what case? What frequency are you aiming for?

A single rad AIO unit vs the ones above will probably be good enough for you tbh (something like a Corsair H75 or H80i GT). What's your CPU? Unless you just want a double rad AIO unit for aesthetics or something.

If you're looking for silence then get a Noctua air cooler, either the NH-D15 ($110) or NH-D15S ($100). The Noctua CPU coolers offer still excellent performance including extremely low noise for a much lower price. Or if you're overclocking and price is no budget, any of those water coolers with Noctua fans replacing the stock fans will be the best solution for low noise.

My case is a NZXT H440 and my CPU is an i7 6700K.

I don't know what frequency is ._.
 

Jazzem

Member
1. Always get a minimum of a bronze 80 power supply. Considering the build I would think 550 watts would be enough (but pushing it a little) higher is always better it doesn't actually consume more power than a lesser one (unless the lesser one was incapable of powering the components in the first place)
2. I've seen ram come with components in bundles on newegg or as free gifts before although I've never seen 16GB of it in one free gift.
3.I would say the CPU's recommended there are a little outdated you can get 6th gen CPU's for the same price/less that use DDR4 ram and should perform better overall.
4. Would it be "enough" I can run a ton of games on high at 1080p with a 280 3GB but if you can afford the better one I would always recommend shooting for the better one unless the price/perf ratio is just ridiculously bad (which it isn't in this case) it should last you longer as well and is VR ready according to Occulus. Don't forget the 380 and 390 are out now they're slightly better so if it comes down to the same or similar price go for the newer one.
5. Definitely don't get a 750MB HDD :p. Now as for the dual setup that's exactly what I do 120GB SSD for Windows and apps and a bigger drive for games. So yes, do that it's a great setup that gets you the best of both worlds (fast boot and large capacity)
What parts are you looking at already? Do you have a list in mind?

1. Depends what model it is. We try not to recommend Corsair's CX line if possible, they're not that great.
2. Brand doesn't matter so much as the speed and latency does. I don't know why your friend insists on getting "free RAM" bundled with another part.
3. That processor is alright, but you may want to consider getting the newer i5 6500 if you can fit it into your budget. Keep in mind that the i5 4460 and i5 6500 aren't compatible with the same motherboard chipset and RAM.
4. Unless you're looking at used graphics cards at a low price, the R9 290 and R9 280 are discontinued and they are no longer recommended. For the UK, skinflint.co.uk is a great comparison shopping website for computer parts and it tells me that the newer R9 390 can be had for the same price as an R9 290, and the same goes for the R9 380 and R9 280. Also consider the GTX 970 and GTX 960 4GB. Nvidia is preferable for lower power consumption in case you go with a lower end power supply.
5. If you can go for a 240~256GB SSD instead, we'd recommend it. My experience is that 120GB can fill up rather quickly unless you strictly only keep Windows and maybe a few programs on it.

Edit: Here's a preliminary parts list for you to look at that fits into your £650 budget.

http://imgur.com/uq7FflO
1 x Western Digital WD Blue 1TB, 64MB cache, SATA 6Gb/s (WD10EZEX)
1 x Samsung SSD 850 Evo 250GB, SATA (MZ-75E250B)
1 x Intel Core i5-6500, 4x 3.20GHz, boxed (BX80662I56500)
1 x Crucial DIMM kit 8GB, DDR4-2133, CL15-15-15 (CT2K4G4DFS8213)
1 x Sapphire Radeon R9 380 Dual-X, 2GB GDDR5, 2x DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort, lite retail (11242-02-20G)
1 x MSI B150M Mortar (7972-002R)
1 x SilverStone Precision PS08 black (SST-PS08B)
1 x XFX TS Series 550W ATX 2.31 (P1-550S-GREN)
1 x Microsoft: Windows 10 Home 64bit, DSP/SB (English) (PC) (KW9-00139)
Total of all best prices: £ 647.75

I can't be certain if the prices for the parts include VAT or shipping, so the total might be a bit higher.

Big thanks guys, you've helped considerably :) And saved me from getting potentially out of date parts! I'll ask any more queries if they come up, but as I say the advice provided is invaluable and much appreciated.

(and, err, yeah I obviously meant 750GB ahah)
 

bomblord1

Banned
So my boards internal wifi just went kaput.

Was browsing the web suddenly no connection
After a few seconds it showed "limited" connection
Now Windows shows it as an "Unknown USB device device descriptor request failed"

First thing I did was a reset but that failed.

I tried manually applying the drivers to it from the device manager and wiggling the antenna as well as removing it and putting it back on but it seems like it's shot. D:

It appears to be receiving power as it has a flashing green light. The board is an MSI Z77 Mpower board

I'm currently on a wired connection although it's a little inconvenient as I only have 1 wire running to the room and I was using it for something else.
 

Ecto311

Member
I recently had a very similar issue to this with an Asrock H81-M Mobo. It turned out I had to update the bios because the old version didn't want to play ball with a recent Windows 7 update.

I tried this on her computer and still no dice. I got my computer back with a windows recovery USB. It didn't say what happened so I don't know what happened to mine.

I tried the upgrade of the bios on hers with the H81 MSI board and it is still doing the attempted fix with spinning circles.

Easy way to tell if it's the hard drive, motherboard, or ram? Using the back USB doesn't change anything. It has no physical drive either so USB is all right now.

Trying a full windows 10 install USB instead of this recovery stuff.
 

wiibomb

Member
Their part recommendations are sometimes alright, but we can do part recommendations based on current best pricing for you. Going from a GTX 970 to a GTX 980 yields a small 10~20% performance improvement, generally it's not worth the extra cost. It's also possible for a overclocked GTX 970 to match a stock GTX 980 (depending on games and drivers and how far the card is overclocked of course), so we don't really recommend the GTX 980.

If you want a $1000~1100 PC, I recommend this parts list. Of course, if you want to have anything changed, that can be done.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($115.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($46.97 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($319.98 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($66.50 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1038.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-20 13:41 EST-0500

An mITX motherboard isn't what you want unless you're aiming for a super compact PC. For first time builders, a larger motherboard and case will be easier to build in. This parts list includes RAM, wifi, and bluetooth.

thanks a lot for your recommendation, I just ordered both the CPU and the Video card in amazon to get me started
 

LilJoka

Member
Hot damn.

My idle with a stock i5 2310 was 50°C and raising to about 90 when gaming.

Thats hot. Stock cooler? Ambients?

My i7 3770 @ 4.25Ghz gets to 70c while gaming in an ITX case with fans at bare minimum (700rpm fixed) at 21c ambient. And thats including a GTX 970 thats at 65*c right beside it with aftermarket cooling rather than blower type.

Idle should be about 10-15c above ambient normally.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
I'd like to have that option open, though. This is my first heavy duty gaming PC and I want to overclock that mother fucker if I have to lol

I thought the liquid cooled ones were more quiet?

You might as well overclock though. Even a small one can get you an extra chunk of performance for free. You don't need to worry about complex voltage stuff, just do the basics.
 
Thats hot. Stock cooler? Ambients?

My i7 3770 @ 4.25Ghz gets to 70c while gaming in an ITX case with fans at bare minimum (700rpm fixed) at 21c ambient. And thats including a GTX 970 thats at 65*c right beside it with aftermarket cooling rather than blower type.

Idle should be about 10-15c above ambient normally.

It was stock. I noticed with newer games, it would rise to those temps. Lesser games and it'd hover around 65 or so. I reapplied thermal paste and it helped a little but decided on getting a cooler (hyper 212.) Had problems once I installed it (would reboot every couple of secs) that I narrowed down to my PSU and of course where it originally was supposed to arrive today, because of the weather I won't be getting my new one till tomorrow.

I'm hoping I can get much more reasonable temps once everything is sorted.
 

KissVibes

Banned
Friends, I have an issue.


I'm running Windows 10 on my PC and my second hard-drive keeps vanishing. My SSD shows up fine, I have 400GB of games installed but randomly, it just stops showing up under my PC.

Ran defrag and stress tests. Nothing came up.

What do I dooooo?
 
Friends, I have an issue.


I'm running Windows 10 on my PC and my second hard-drive keeps vanishing. My SSD shows up fine, I have 400GB of games installed but randomly, it just stops showing up under my PC.

Ran defrag and stress tests. Nothing came up.

What do I dooooo?

Maybe the SATA Port is faulty? SATA cable defective?
Have you tested the SATA power cable ?
 
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