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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Deku Tree

Member
Is the 980 one of the best cards now? Why are there so many different variations of the 980? Are they all pretty much the same if they have the same amount of ram?
 

inner-G

Banned
Is the Corsair 100R a good case for my very first PC build, or are there more beginner-friendly ones anyone here can recommend?
I have the 100r silent and I like it.

Mostly tool less except the GPU screws. Has a 'bulge' on each side to help fit cables. Not bad at all for the price! There are some good video reviews on YouTube. The silent is the same case except with no window and with some sound dampening stuff. It comes with 2 case fans and the regular version comes with 1 for whatever reason.
 

Mr_Moogle

Member
How much shorter? Is it worth the hassle for a first time builder to have to deal with 2 storage components instead of just one?

Yes it's absolutely worth it and I'm not sure where the hassle is. It really isn't hard to install one. The only frustrating thing is having to reinstall windows but it's totally worth ripping off that band-aid.

Honestly once you've used an SSD as your boot drive you will wonder how you ever lived without one. It just makes the whole experience so much smoother. I remember when I first used one in my old i5 750 build and it felt like I was using a completely new PC.

I still use HDD's but only as storage drives for media.
 
I thought about buying the same machine, except lower model CPU and a 970 instead of 980. First, that is a custom HP mobo that does not support overclocking in any way. Second, as you said the 500W PSU on that is pretty cheap, the 980 is pushing it you won't be doing SLI or anything like that.

My honest opinion is that right now cutting edge - 6700k, 980ti - is a foolish thing to buy since they are both at the end of their design cycles and new hardware models are due out in the next few months. It would make sense if you are going to sell off that system in 6-9 months and buy the latest and greatest, but I hate dealing with craigslist/ebay so thats never a plan of mine. Kaby Lake is due out this year for CPUs and Pascal/etc for GPUs, plus 10-core Broadwell CPUs possibly for top of the line.

I'm thinking Oculus Rift and 4k gaming, the former is right around the corner with CV1 while the latter is probably still a year or two away realistically, probably 2nd or 3d gen Pascal chips for good single card 4k gaming - by that time maybe v2.0 of VR will also be around.

So my opinion is that its better to get a middle of the road CPU, a 970 GPU, use that for Rift and 1080p gaming right now, and move up to something better around this time next year.

For what its worth on that same slickdeals thread about the HP a lot of people have been posting about this used HP Z420 workstation on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151950168778

I ended up buying one with a $400 offer, delivery this friday. 16GB, 6-core CPU thats 80-85% the speed of a 6700k when only a single core is benchmarked, Windows key, SSD. I'm going to slap in a $300 970, 4-port USB3 PCI-E card, and a 2-4TB drive and i'll have an oculus machine good for a year at least, gives me plenty of room to expand and I can give away or sell it at that time without having invested a ton of money.
I have been struggling with this too. My concern is that the new CPUs and GPUs are going to be prohibitively expensive. Waiting sucks since I don't currently own a gaming PC and the way prices have been going, everything seems to be going, up, up, and up. The question, as always is, wait and see or jump on it now while I know its affordable.
 

Omnipunctual Godot

Gold Member
If you didn't already buy DDR3 RAM, then for $1500 you could go with Skylake or Haswell-E parts which require DDR4 RAM. Here's an example Haswell-E build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($374.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI X99A SLI PLUS ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($224.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Mushkin Redline 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.75 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($319.98 @ NCIX US)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($61.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $1351.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-19 02:06 EST-0500

And for a Skylake build, the parts list above your quote should do just fine, perhaps with some more tweaking. If you wanted, you could opt for a GTX 980 Ti and 16GB of RAM for that Skylake parts list in your budget.
You're a lifesaver. Thank you.
 

Ecto311

Member
2 computers shit the bed looking for advice

I just built my daughter a PC. Then she goes to use it today and goes into a pre Windows loop saying its repairing something. Working great prior to this. No changes. Ok so I google it.

Nothing works won't boot to USB key. Won't go into recovery mode. Won't do anything but loop this fix. Ok I got her a refurb wd drive I get it ok. So I take that drive to my computer and turn it off then plug it in and reset.

Now my computer says "reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key"

I have removed all the stuff in it as far as other drives. My crucial ssd drive shows up in bios and on the boot screen but all the sudden has no windows or anything? My PC won't go to the boot drive either for a recovery or anything. Tried switching it off and removing the cmos battery also, in mine and her PC.

Tldr: comp 1 won't boot. Plugged drive in mine and now it won't boot either.

Any ideas? Google is full of people fixing with boot drives and I can't get any of that to work. I have the Asia p8p67 motherboard and she has an h81 msi matx board. Thanks for any clues.
 

Lunar FC

Member
Hey guys, I am assembling my rig tomorrow and I am wondering whats the best configuration for fans in my case. I have a Fractal Design Define R4 which has 2 spots for fans on the front (not open to outside air), 1 on the bottom, 1 on the back and 2 on the top.
 

Smokey

Member
Fractal Design Nano S
5483f2b5-eca7-4647-9a78-78d1a9daf389


f028dde5-5152-44ba-81e0-639b04b18494

For ITX builds, and also has plenty of water cooling compatibility.

ITX motherboard compatibility
2 expansion slots
2 - 3.5" HDD/2.5" SSD positions; 2 - 2.5" dedicated SSD unit positions (fits SSDs up to 13mm thick)
6 - Fan positions (1 Fractal Design Dynamic GP14 140mm fan + 1 Fractal Design Dynamic GP-12 120mm fan included)
Filtered fan slots in the front and bottom (ejects from the front of the case)
CPU coolers up to 160mm in height
ATX PSUs up to 160mm deep
Graphics cards up to 315mm in length with front fans mounted (Cards wider than the dual slot bracket are not recommended)
17 - 35mm of space for cable routing behind the motherboard plate
Velcro straps included for easy cable management
Both side panels and rear HDD/SSD brakcets feature smart captive thumbscrews
Dense sound dampening material on front and right side panels; left side panel includes a transparent window
ModuVent™ on top of case for further silent computing or additional ventilation
Colours available: Black
Case dimensions (WxHxD): 203 x 330 x 400mm

Thinking of going with mATX or ITX for my next build. Starting to looking into these smaller cases. Not sure if this is out or not yet.
 

SRG01

Member
I have been struggling with this too. My concern is that the new CPUs and GPUs are going to be prohibitively expensive. Waiting sucks since I don't currently own a gaming PC and the way prices have been going, everything seems to be going, up, up, and up. The question, as always is, wait and see or jump on it now while I know its affordable.

Here's the thing: there's nothing that will effectively bottleneck your system even with a 4790k. Does your use-case call for a high end CPU? If not, then there's nothing wrong with buying something reasonable especially if you can see yourself sticking to it for a reasonable amount of time.

The only time when not buying high enough specs is a problem is when you buy something that is less than what you need.

edit: I should add that if you *are* planning to go with VR, then you do need to plan accordingly...
 

Smokey

Member
So what PC game is recommended to really test out my new build?

Sadly my Steam library is mostly filled with indies and last-gen 360 ports that don't really demand much.

What is a Crysis equivalent in 2016 to see how well my PC can perform?

Rise of the Tomb Raider next week will probably be a nice test. The first was really scaleable and is still used in bench marking today.
 

e90Mark

Member
Fractal Design Nano S


For ITX builds, and also has plenty of water cooling compatibility.



Thinking of going with mATX or ITX for my next build. Starting to looking into these smaller cases. Not sure if this is out or not yet.

That's really pretty. Friend is wanting to go ITX for his next build, definitely gonna show him this case.

I just switched to an mATX build and I love it. Using an Air 240, and I think it's perfect.

Think I will base if ITX is right for me if/when my buddy decides to build on ITX, but so far I'm liking matx.
 

psycho17

Member
Here's a Skylake-based parts list.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($115.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($46.97 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($319.98 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($61.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $1003.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-19 01:58 EST-0500

Do you need Windows OS? We can rework the build to include that for a $1000 budget.
Thanks for the suggestion. I would need Windows so If it was possible to workout something close to this it'd be nice.
 

RGM79

Member
Hey guys, a friend of mine has an old PC that he's looking to upgrade, it's here: http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03160744

He's looking at just upgrading the GPU to something like a GTX 960, but I have a feeling his CPU is way too old.

If it is, is it better to scrap everything and start again, or can he upgrade at least some parts?

Whether he should start new or not depends on how much he's comfortable spending. If he prefers to spend less and upgrade instead, then you two will have to open up the computer case and tell me if you can find either of these graphics card power cables. If your PC does have that, then you can upgrade to a GTX 960. If not, then you'll have to consider a lower end graphics card like the GTX 750 Ti. I sort of doubt your computer 300 watt power supply has those cables, so I have to ask you to check.

Thanks for the suggestion. I would need Windows so If it was possible to workout something close to this it'd be nice.

Can you fill out the questionnaire from the first post of this thread? It will give us a better idea of what you want and where I can consider cutting costs.

2 computers shit the bed looking for advice

I just built my daughter a PC. Then she goes to use it today and goes into a pre Windows loop saying its repairing something. Working great prior to this. No changes. Ok so I google it.

Nothing works won't boot to USB key. Won't go into recovery mode. Won't do anything but loop this fix. Ok I got her a refurb wd drive I get it ok. So I take that drive to my computer and turn it off then plug it in and reset.

Now my computer says "reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key"

I have removed all the stuff in it as far as other drives. My crucial ssd drive shows up in bios and on the boot screen but all the sudden has no windows or anything? My PC won't go to the boot drive either for a recovery or anything. Tried switching it off and removing the cmos battery also, in mine and her PC.

Tldr: comp 1 won't boot. Plugged drive in mine and now it won't boot either.

Any ideas? Google is full of people fixing with boot drives and I can't get any of that to work. I have the Asia p8p67 motherboard and she has an h81 msi matx board. Thanks for any clues.

I'm sorry, your situation is somewhat vague, and without any idea of what happened to her PC it's hard to give an exact diagnosis. To make sure the computer can boot from a USB drive, you will have to enter the BIOS menu and make sure USB booting is enabled and the USB drive is higher on the priority list of what to boot from.

Perhaps malware could have caused her PC to stop booting to Windows, but it wouldn't exactly explain why the PC is incapable of booting to a USB drive. I can't quite explain why connecting her hard drive to your PC would also cause your PC to not boot either.

For your own PC, if you remove your daughter's hard drive, it should boot correctly again. Make sure you haven't accidentally unplugged the power and data cables for own PC's drives.

You can also post your question in the gaf tech-support thread if you want to try and get more help.

Yes that's what i meant, sorry. lol

Are you looking for any specifics or will any cheap case do? Maybe you should also tell us what your PC's specs are so we can be sure the rest will fit. As far as cheap cases go, I like the Cooler Master N200 ($43) and the NZXT Source 210 Elite ($42~44).
 
Whether he should start new or not depends on how much he's comfortable spending. If he prefers to spend less and upgrade instead, then you two will have to open up the computer case and tell me if you can find either of these graphics card power cables. If your PC does have that, then you can upgrade to a GTX 960. If not, then you'll have to consider a lower end graphics card like the GTX 750 Ti. I sort of doubt your computer 300 watt power supply has those cables, so I have to ask you to check.

Thanks man, I sent him the picture of the cables.

So if it does have those cables, he can just get the 960, but what about his CPU? Is it a massive bottleneck?

Second, if he he doesn't have the cables, can he just get a new PSU and go from there?
 

dot

Member
Are you looking for any specifics or will any cheap case do? Maybe you should also tell us what your PC's specs are so we can be sure the rest will fit. As far as cheap cases go, I like the Cooler Master N200 ($43) and the NZXT Source 210 Elite ($42~44).

any cheap one is fine

specs are...
AMD Phenom II X6 1055T Processor (6 CPUs), ~2.8GHz
EVGA GTX 550 Ti(switching this one out)
8 GB RAM
700W PSU

i dont need anything else if i'm replacing the 550 ti with the 780 ti right? I'm a computer nub.
 

SRG01

Member
any cheap one is fine

specs are...
AMD Phenom II X6 1055T Processor (6 CPUs), ~2.8GHz
GTX 550 Ti(switching this one out)
8 GB RAM
700W PSU

i dont need anything else if i'm replacing the 550 ti for the 780 ti right? I'm a computer nub.

Check to see if your PSU has the right PCI-E power cable for it. It might be a slightly different plug.

Fractal Design Nano S

For ITX builds, and also has plenty of water cooling compatibility.

Thinking of going with mATX or ITX for my next build. Starting to looking into these smaller cases. Not sure if this is out or not yet.

Just for your information, I went with a Thermaltake V21 for my mATX build and had (nearly) zero issues. It's a bit of the pain if you put things in out of order, and the rails can be a bit hard to fit into the case if the build tolerances on your copy happen to be slightly off.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks man, I sent him the picture of the cables.

So if it does have those cables, he can just get the 960, but what about his CPU? Is it a massive bottleneck?

Second, if he he doesn't have the cables, can he just get a new PSU and go from there?

The FX-6100 is a bottleneck, but there's not too much he can do about it other than getting a whole new PC. Any processors that he could upgrade to are still somewhat limited and I wouldn't really recommend it.

As far as I can see here, your computer uses a standard power supply and isn't proprietary, which is a good thing. It should work with any replacement power supply you can order from a place like Newegg. You should order one that matches the dimensions of your old power supply for best fit and compatibility, the video in that link doesn't show a lot of space for a larger power supply (not sure if the computer in that video is the same design as the one you have).

Luckily, the HP website link you gave earlier lists the dimensions of the power supply: 150mm x 140mm x 86mm. I can recommend the EVGA 600B ($35 after $10 rebate) as the cheapest "okay" power supply to get.
 

Mr_Moogle

Member
2 computers shit the bed looking for advice

I just built my daughter a PC. Then she goes to use it today and goes into a pre Windows loop saying its repairing something. Working great prior to this. No changes. Ok so I google it.

Nothing works won't boot to USB key. Won't go into recovery mode. Won't do anything but loop this fix. Ok I got her a refurb wd drive I get it ok. So I take that drive to my computer and turn it off then plug it in and reset.

Now my computer says "reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key"

I have removed all the stuff in it as far as other drives. My crucial ssd drive shows up in bios and on the boot screen but all the sudden has no windows or anything? My PC won't go to the boot drive either for a recovery or anything. Tried switching it off and removing the cmos battery also, in mine and her PC.

Tldr: comp 1 won't boot. Plugged drive in mine and now it won't boot either.

Any ideas? Google is full of people fixing with boot drives and I can't get any of that to work. I have the Asia p8p67 motherboard and she has an h81 msi matx board. Thanks for any clues.

I recently had a very similar issue to this with an Asrock H81-M Mobo. It turned out I had to update the bios because the old version didn't want to play ball with a recent Windows 7 update.
 

RGM79

Member
any cheap one is fine

specs are...
AMD Phenom II X6 1055T Processor (6 CPUs), ~2.8GHz
EVGA GTX 550 Ti(switching this one out)
8 GB RAM
700W PSU

i dont need anything else if i'm replacing the 550 ti with the 780 ti right? I'm a computer nub.

I was asking more along the lines of what CPU cooler you have. Do you have the stock one or a larger model? What model of power supply do you have?

Would've liked a third slot so you can fit a full-size GPU and a PCI express card (think USB 3.0 for Oculus). At least it supports an ATX PSU, I've only heard questionable things about current SFF ones.

Most Z97/Z170 motherboards should already have enough USB 3.0 ports for the Oculus Rift, I think.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
2 computers shit the bed looking for advice

I just built my daughter a PC. Then she goes to use it today and goes into a pre Windows loop saying its repairing something. Working great prior to this. No changes. Ok so I google it.

Nothing works won't boot to USB key. Won't go into recovery mode. Won't do anything but loop this fix. Ok I got her a refurb wd drive I get it ok. So I take that drive to my computer and turn it off then plug it in and reset.

Now my computer says "reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key"

I have removed all the stuff in it as far as other drives. My crucial ssd drive shows up in bios and on the boot screen but all the sudden has no windows or anything? My PC won't go to the boot drive either for a recovery or anything. Tried switching it off and removing the cmos battery also, in mine and her PC.

Tldr: comp 1 won't boot. Plugged drive in mine and now it won't boot either.

Any ideas? Google is full of people fixing with boot drives and I can't get any of that to work. I have the Asia p8p67 motherboard and she has an h81 msi matx board. Thanks for any clues.
Do you have a Windows Installation disc (Bootable Windows USB Installer would work here too) where you can try to have it repair itself?
I've seen this happen with bad update / power off on an update.
 

RGM79

Member
Do most of them use Intel chipsets or whatever's required by Oculus?

Most if not all PCI-E USB 3.0 add-in cards aren't Intel. They're usually Asmedia, Etron, Renesas, or NEC brand controllers. I've only seen cheap ones, though. I'm not sure if there are more expensive Intel-powered USB 3.0 cards. I think some if not most motherboard onboard USB 3.0 ports are Intel or Asmedia, depending. Motherboard tech specs on the manufacturers' websites might list what controller they use. If it's not listed, I'm assuming it's intel. If there's an extra controller that's Asmedia or something, they usually mention it.
 

psycho17

Member
Can you fill out the questionnaire from the first post of this thread? It will give us a better idea of what you want and where I can consider cutting costs.

.

Oh yea sure

Budget: I'd like to stay around $1000 but I'd be willing to go up to $1100 US
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: 5-Gaming, 4-General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).3-Emulation (PS2/Wii) , 2-Streaming games in HD, 1-Video Editing
Monitor Resolution: Since I don't have the space currently I'd be using my 32in TV as my main display
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I'd like to run most new games at 60fps but its not that big of a deal. I play alot of mmos on and off so running something like Blade and Soul and Marvel Heroes maxed out would be nice
When will you build?: I wanted to at least have my parts purchased before the end of January
Will you be overclocking?: No
 
Not sure if there's an official thread for IT help but has this happened to anyone else?


What that window is supposed to be is my Radeon Settings. I can still click on things but it's completely transparent. Sometime this weekend, my monitors flickered and when I tried to open the settings it started doing that.
 

Hyoukokun

Member
So my XFX Radeon 390X arrived today, and... surprise! It doesn't fit in my 8-year-old case.

What would you folks recommend as a replacement? It needs to host an ATX mobo and be roomy enough for this gigantic video card. Ideally I'd like to be able to buy it on Amazon Prime, too :) .
 

dot

Member
I was asking more along the lines of what CPU cooler you have. Do you have the stock one or a larger model? What model of power supply do you have?

oh whoops, my bad

CPU cooler is Zalman CNPS8700 LED CPU Cooler

PSU is Cooler Master Silent Pro M 700W
 

AxeMan

Member
Well if you want a basic monitor you should try and find a 21.5" LCD preferably IPS with HDMI connection so you can plug one into DVI port and one into the HDMI port. I think that would work perfectly fine. Obviously the bigger you go the more expensive its going to cost. I don't know enough brands to give a recommendation, though I have two Acer monitors and I like them.

In terms of 1080 vs 1440 it really depends on the games you play whether you go with a 1080p or 1440p. Do you favour resolution or framerate? I recommend you check out the Anandtech review Link and check out the benchmarks.

Most of the 1440p monitors I've seen are 27" and above. 24" and under most are 1080p.

A 21-24" 1080p/60hz IPS monitor would be the cheapest option, but would still be a very good option. You just have to find one with HDMI or DisplayPort.

A mid tier option would be a 24" 1080p/144hz TN panel with G-Sync at around AU$500. There's a few brands at this price including Acer, AOC and BENQ. The G-sync module adds on another $150-200 so decide if you need it. Check the G-sync thread. A lot of gaffers love it.

A 27" 1440p panel would be the most expensive option. At this price range of around AU$700-1000 you could get almost anything from ultra wide monitors, to curved and 4k monitors.

Thanks for the detailed reply. I got fed up yesterday thinking too much about it and because my GPU showed up I went and got 2 x Benq xl2430t.
Probably overkill
 
Fractal Design Nano S


For ITX builds, and also has plenty of water cooling compatibility.



Thinking of going with mATX or ITX for my next build. Starting to looking into these smaller cases. Not sure if this is out or not yet.

That's an awesome case. I just built in a Define S and it was great. Previously had been in an R4 which was great too. Easy to build in and damn silent too.
 

Ecto311

Member
Do you have a Windows Installation disc (Bootable Windows USB Installer would work here too) where you can try to have it repair itself?
I've seen this happen with bad update / power off on an update.

I think this might be part of it. I am thinking that the motherboard needed an update also. I got a drive here to do a recovery or full install again since it just had steam/origin games on it and nothing else.

The weird thing is when I moved the drive to do a scan on my desktop then it stops working also. I am thinking that my dumb ass putting in the drive without assigning it a slave/master situation is causing the PC to see the current only drive as a slave so not looking for a windows install? I can't tell for sure. I removed the battery for the CMOS after I did the swap around and it is still giving issues.

My USB drive with the windows install was not working either. It would just bring up a 4 pane window logo with nothing else going on and sit there forever. I think its the USB drive so I went and got a new one just a few min ago. Thanks for the ideas so far though. I hope its just a MBR issue that I can fix with some command lines.

This motherboard only has SATA ports on it so I am not sure if the slave/master drive thing is still a problem or not. I remember it being an issue years and years ago but not sure now.

Is it better to do a windows install on the USB or a recovery from another device?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I think this might be part of it. I am thinking that the motherboard needed an update also. I got a drive here to do a recovery or full install again since it just had steam/origin games on it and nothing else.

The weird thing is when I moved the drive to do a scan on my desktop then it stops working also. I am thinking that my dumb ass putting in the drive without assigning it a slave/master situation is causing the PC to see the current only drive as a slave so not looking for a windows install? I can't tell for sure. I removed the battery for the CMOS after I did the swap around and it is still giving issues.

My USB drive with the windows install was not working either. It would just bring up a 4 pane window logo with nothing else going on and sit there forever. I think its the USB drive so I went and got a new one just a few min ago. Thanks for the ideas so far though. I hope its just a MBR issue that I can fix with some command lines.

This motherboard only has SATA ports on it so I am not sure if the slave/master drive thing is still a problem or not. I remember it being an issue years and years ago but not sure now.

Is it better to do a windows install on the USB or a recovery from another device?
Try the new USB drive on a back USB 2.0 port.
Master/Slave is gone, however you might check the BIOS for AHCI/Legacy mode for the SATA controller.
Sometimes USB Installs/boot can have issues, the DVD is the more reliable way if you can make one.
 
The FX-6100 is a bottleneck, but there's not too much he can do about it other than getting a whole new PC. Any processors that he could upgrade to are still somewhat limited and I wouldn't really recommend it.

As far as I can see here, your computer uses a standard power supply and isn't proprietary, which is a good thing. It should work with any replacement power supply you can order from a place like Newegg. You should order one that matches the dimensions of your old power supply for best fit and compatibility, the video in that link doesn't show a lot of space for a larger power supply (not sure if the computer in that video is the same design as the one you have).

Luckily, the HP website link you gave earlier lists the dimensions of the power supply: 150mm x 140mm x 86mm. I can recommend the EVGA 600B ($35 after $10 rebate) as the cheapest "okay" power supply to get.

Thats been a great help. Thanks man, i'll pass it along.
 

Anth0ny

Member
So I'm trying to decide on a CPU cooler and I've narrowed it down to these guys:

Corsair H105 ($140)
Corsair H100i GTX ($140)
Corsair H110i GTX ($145)
NZXT Kraken X61 ($160)

All prices are Canadian dollars. I'm looking for whatever is the most quiet. According to pcpartpicker they all fit in my case, is there anything else I should be cautious of while deciding on a CPU cooler?


This shit is so confusing. Save me PC GAF :(
 
So I'm trying to decide on a CPU cooler and I've narrowed it down to these guys:

Corsair H105 ($140)
Corsair H100i GTX ($140)
Corsair H110i GTX ($145)
NZXT Kraken X61 ($160)

All prices are Canadian dollars. I'm looking for whatever is the most quiet. According to pcpartpicker they all fit in my case, is there anything else I should be cautious of while deciding on a CPU cooler?


This shit is so confusing. Save me PC GAF :(

What CPU and what case? What frequency are you aiming for?
 

Smokey

Member
So I'm trying to decide on a CPU cooler and I've narrowed it down to these guys:

Corsair H105 ($140)
Corsair H100i GTX ($140)
Corsair H110i GTX ($145)
NZXT Kraken X61 ($160)

All prices are Canadian dollars. I'm looking for whatever is the most quiet. According to pcpartpicker they all fit in my case, is there anything else I should be cautious of while deciding on a CPU cooler?


This shit is so confusing. Save me PC GAF :(

A single rad AIO unit vs the ones above will probably be good enough for you tbh (something like a Corsair H75 or H80i GT). What's your CPU? Unless you just want a double rad AIO unit for aesthetics or something.
 
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