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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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You can overclock the i7 6700K on even a cheap cooler like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo ($40). You do not have to pay $150 for a water cooler just to overclock. The Noctua options I mentioned are more than enough for moderate overclocking.
Looking at Tweaktown's testing results, the Corsair H110i GTX in quiet mode and Noctua NH-D15 are separated by less than one degree in the overclocked temperature chart (68.5 degrees C vs 69.3 degrees C) and produce the same level of noise at low voltage (7.5V). Not bad for costing $35~45 less.
When it comes to CPU cooling, the fans are what counts when it comes to noise. Water cooler pumps may also produce a bit of noise.
What are our PC's specs? A few years back there were an issue with P67 motherboards where the SATA connection would eventually break down.
The Samsung model is probably faster, but if you want to save money and don't need the best performance then it's okay. There aren't many reviews that I can find for that specific model, but it seems to be well received by most people.
Novum_Veritas
Member
I would stay with Samsung, they have the best SSD's together with Intel.
Wag
Member
So I want to build a HTPC based on this board. Do you think it will fit in this case ?
The board is Mini-ATX (fanless CPU) but the case is Mini-ATX slim. I just don't know how big the CPU's heatsink is.
The board is Mini-ATX (fanless CPU) but the case is Mini-ATX slim. I just don't know how big the CPU's heatsink is.
IonicSnake
Banned
My brothers 6950 broke so I gave him my 780 and ordered a Evga 980ti sc.
Wag
Member
The other issue is the case has an external power supply (only 60w). That should be enough for Braswell, correct (even with a 2.5" HD and maybe a PCI-E card)?
For the future: when a hdd is having issues the last thing to do is to stress it or run a defrag unless you are looking to kill it.
What you should be doing first is analysing the SMART attributes. And in your case checking the power and data cables to make sure they aren't loose.
Manp
Member
850 EVO is a better drive but that sandisk isn't half bad either. it's a solide choice, i've used it on some low budget builds and never had any problem.
That case is quite tacky in real life, my friend bought one. See if you can get an ITX case from wesena or streacom.
http://www.shop.perfecthometheater.com/HTPC-ITX6-Black-Mini-HTPC-aluminum-chassis-HTPC-ITX6-B.htm
http://www.amazon.com/Wesena-ITX4-v3-Black-100-Aluminum-chassis/dp/B00858U4W8
And you should consider an Intel NUC as it has built in Microsoft native IR far superior to USB ones.
Wag
Member
The intel NUC only has 1 DIMM slot, which isn't good for smooth 4k HEVC playback. Dual-channel kills it on Braswell.
According to this French review, the N3700-ITX was able to playback 4K video in their test as long as hardware acceleration was enabled.
Not necessarily, but if you care about aesthetics at all, they are the better option. If you do a lot of work in your PC, they allow for a lot more maneuverability. If you don't care about any of the above, air coolers work fine and are cheaper.
Wag
Member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEG3xYoct38
They all can, just the Braswell boards with dual-channel support do it better. The N3700-ITX has dual-channel support.
2k to spend on a build. 970 right now then sell it when new cards come out or get an 980ti right now ? I only plan to game at 1080p. No desire for 1440p BUT I plan to buy the vive or rift. The 2k will also cover brand new mouse, keyboard, headset, and a 144hz 1080p gsync monitor . Which card should I get guys? Planning on buying everything within the month .
Ecto311
Member
Seems there is an issue with windows 10 and these motherboard/processor combos needing a bios update. I never thought to reset the bios with the battery and the fuckin battery is stuck under the GTX460 on this board. I removed it, removed the battery and reset the thing. Updated the bios and NOW this turd will read a USB recovery of windows 10. The damn splash screen was overlaying the windows logo so I didn't know it was trying to load windows - it looked like the MSI splash screen was the problem.
Now that it is going the repair console with the install usb is telling me it is correcting disk errors and could take hours. I assume I would be better off getting a new drive in the future since this damn thing was a refurb from MicroCenter and only $25 for 320gb. I assumed these would be fine since WD has been a great brand in the past but if this is going to happen often I am trashing this damn thing before there is something important on it.
Thanks for the tips and ideas for the repair though I have been fixing computers for 20 years and never seen this shit happen before.
I'm upgrading my wife's PC with a new motherboard, cpu, ram and video card. She did the free Windows 10 upgrade on her current system from Windows 7(retail dvd).
I've heard that the free Windows 10 upgrade cannot be transferred, and that it also eats up the previous Windows 7/8 product key and makes it invalid. Not sure what's true.
So, I'm wondering if and how I can reinstall Windows 10 on her new system. Her copy of Windows 7 is retail and not OEM, if that matters.
I've heard that the free Windows 10 upgrade cannot be transferred, and that it also eats up the previous Windows 7/8 product key and makes it invalid. Not sure what's true.
So, I'm wondering if and how I can reinstall Windows 10 on her new system. Her copy of Windows 7 is retail and not OEM, if that matters.
Tried new SATA cable, new port, and SATA power cable. Hard drive came directly out of last PC, where it was my OS drive. Still disconnects at random times, typically while playing a game installed on the drive. Sometimes while just sitting here.
Ran HDDScan S.M.A.R.T. Report:
Novum_Veritas
Member
Hm how old is the hard disk? Brand and exact name of the HDD you using?
This should be the exact drive according to SeaTools: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148433
Novum_Veritas
Member
I see, a Seagate Barracuda. Seagate have sometimes the habit to get all problematic over a certain time.
Could you use Crystal Disk Info an post a screenshot here?
Would be interesting to know how long it has already been running.
How old is the HDD?
Link to the software is here:
http://crystalmark.info/download/index-e.html
If you have $2K to spend why wouldn't you go 1440p? You could get an Asus ROG Swift PG279Q and a 980 TI for about $1500 leaving $500 for those other peripherals and be ready with the best GPU for VR as well.
Novum_Veritas
Member
The harddrive is about 3 years old, maybe? Possibly 4.
It seems the HDD is almost dying with the "Reallocated Sector Count" failure.
Omnipunctual Godot
Gold Member
Newegg has an ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Professional Gaming i7 LGA 1151 ATX Motherboard for $180, which becomes $160 after a $20 rebate.
Good start for RGM79's suggested Skylake build?
I can spend a max of $1500 on parts.
Good start for RGM79's suggested Skylake build?
I can spend a max of $1500 on parts.
Did a GPU/PSU upgrade and my two spinning drives have totally disappeared. The sata 6 SSD I'm booting from is fine but the others are nowhere to be found - nothing in device manager etc. Pretty sure they're getting power. Tried different sata 3 ports on motherboard (Asus p8Z77-V LK). Next stop is Micro Center for some fresh sata cables. Maybe a new drive to rule out the possibility that they both died at the same time, but that doesn't seem right.
edit: I should try the Sata 6 ports on the other side of the board - fingers crossed
edit: I should try the Sata 6 ports on the other side of the board - fingers crossed
abracadaver
Member
I want to know this as well
I've ordered an new motherboard, CPU and RAM. I already upgraded Windows 8 to Windows 10 last year.
How do I clean install Windows 10 now?
Oh sorry, I misread your comment.
See here, Microsoft considers those copies of Windows 10 to be "digital entitlement" and they aren't transferable to new computers like retail copies. You two can try contacting Microsoft (see the section titled "Activating Windows 10 after a hardware configuration change") and explain to them that you are replacing certain parts and that it isn't a new and separate PC, perhaps they will help you reactivate that license of Windows 10 for your new hardware.
I believe you may be required to tell Microsoft your old Windows 7/8/8.1 key.
I might just be thrifty, but I don't see much point in spending the extra $45 for the higher end motherboard unless you really need that many more USB, SATA, M.2, mini PCI-E ports.
Sounds like some cables came loose. It goes without saying, double check all of the connections. Even if they're already plugged in, there's no harm in unplugging and then reinserting them.
xplicitone
Member
Helped build my friend's/coworker's computer tonight
Put everything in and forgot to plug the mobo power when we tried to turn it on. Finally got that and it turned on!
Problem is, nothing displays to the monitor using either the gfx card or the on board / mother board HDMI. The keyboard doesn't seem to be on as well.
It's passed 2 am so we have to continue tomorrow. Hopefully the mobo wasn't DOA
Put everything in and forgot to plug the mobo power when we tried to turn it on. Finally got that and it turned on!
Problem is, nothing displays to the monitor using either the gfx card or the on board / mother board HDMI. The keyboard doesn't seem to be on as well.
It's passed 2 am so we have to continue tomorrow. Hopefully the mobo wasn't DOA
Is it Skylake?
Mine was doing something similar - turned on but never displayed BIOS - turned out the RAM was incompatible.
Double-check that you connected the CPU power connector as well
Burgess_101
Member
The harddrive is about 3 years old, maybe? Possibly 4.
I had a Toshiba 1TB HDD (I learnt not to buy a used HDD got a refund though) that did a similar thing, the HDD is kaput you'll need a new one.
I tend to avoid Seagate. I think WD and Hitatchi are the best brands going by failure rates. I have a WD 320GB HDD that is over 5 years old now and still going strong.
BlackClouds
Member
I'd run Spinrite on that
How do you guys determine if an upgrade is worth it or not?
I'm still on a MSI GeForce GTX 580 from 2011.
Mostly play Blizzard games or CS:GO/Dota 2 and this card seems to still run them fine.
I have some extra cash, but can't seem to find like a chart or how to determine if a certain card would give me like a 2-4x performance upgrade (if that makes sense). I impulsively ordered a R9 380 4gb ($188 shipped), but I'll return it if it's not a significant boost.
I'm still on a MSI GeForce GTX 580 from 2011.
Mostly play Blizzard games or CS:GO/Dota 2 and this card seems to still run them fine.
I have some extra cash, but can't seem to find like a chart or how to determine if a certain card would give me like a 2-4x performance upgrade (if that makes sense). I impulsively ordered a R9 380 4gb ($188 shipped), but I'll return it if it's not a significant boost.
Well, because performance relies on many different metrics there really is no hard fast way to measure 2x of 4x the power. If may have 4x the flops but only produce 150% of the FPS in some games. It may have double the vram but the same bandwidth. That's not even mentioning how drivers play into it.
I personally compare cards by plugging them into GPU Boss and check out the benchmark section to see how they stack up to each other in actual testing (as opposed to theoretical paper performance)
Hellgardia
Member
The R9 380 4GB will give you more memory to spare since the GTX580 only had 1.5GB. But if vram was not an issue, the gains will be much smaller...
Something like 20 to 30% i believe depending on the game.
Something like 20 to 30% i believe depending on the game.
xplicitone
Member
Yes, Skylake.
Whoa interesting. I'm looking up some information on that RAM - Skylake compatibility now.
Skylake takes DDR4 ram not DDR3. Trying to use DDR3 ram can damage the processor.
Hellgardia
Member
In terms of pure specs it's still a very large difference but in terms of games it won't be
the 2-4x performance he/she expects.
What? I didn't know this was a thing. I don't intend to do it but isn't the skylake memory controller able to work with DDR4 and 3?
DDR3L. Skylake does not support DDR3.
QuantumSquid
Member
How's this build look?
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Mk3x4D
I watched a bunch of YouTube videos and looked at lots of benchmarks of the GTX 960 4GB running the games I'm interested in playing (Overwatch, Killing Floor 2, CS:GO, Fallout 4, GTA V) at 1080p and it looks like as long as I'm okay with turning down certain settings in certain games, 60fps at that resolution is easily attainable.
The case choice is certainly not set in stone and as you may have seen in my previous posts, this will be my first time building a PC, so I am trying to choose the best case for a beginner (tool-less cases seem good for that). Also, if anyone knows a good 1080p 60hz monitor with minimal input lag/response time for under $200, I would appreciate it if you could point me in its direction.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Mk3x4D
I watched a bunch of YouTube videos and looked at lots of benchmarks of the GTX 960 4GB running the games I'm interested in playing (Overwatch, Killing Floor 2, CS:GO, Fallout 4, GTA V) at 1080p and it looks like as long as I'm okay with turning down certain settings in certain games, 60fps at that resolution is easily attainable.
The case choice is certainly not set in stone and as you may have seen in my previous posts, this will be my first time building a PC, so I am trying to choose the best case for a beginner (tool-less cases seem good for that). Also, if anyone knows a good 1080p 60hz monitor with minimal input lag/response time for under $200, I would appreciate it if you could point me in its direction.
Any particular reason you're going with a 4th gen i5?
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