triplestation
Member
is a good 650 watt psu gonna be good for a 980 ti + i7 5820k?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I don't think the tool-less feature is that important that you should prioritize that for your PC above all else. All tool-less means is that it has these plastic or metal tray/clamps/mounts that can make installing and removing drives more easily. It doesn't mean you never have to use a screwdriver or deal with any screws. You still need a Philips screwdriver (your own) and screws (supplied with the case and power supply) to install the motherboard, power supply at the very least.
I have the Fractal Define S, and it's not exactly tool-less like other cases are. Instead of sliding in the drives and locking them into place with a switch, it uses this metal tray design that still requires you to secure the storage drive to the tray with screws, it's just that installing the metal tray into the case doesn't require a screwdriver because they use thumbscrews instead. I'd still use a screwdriver to save my fingertips from having to turn thumbscrews. Spending $80 on the case is kind of silly if you're on a limited budget and trying to get the best bang for your buck. I'd suggest you stick with the Corsair 100R case or something similarly priced.
I mean, the case is something you deal with when you put together the PC and the rare occasions you have to take it apart. The rest of the time you don't need to worry about the case itself. Spending $130 on the GPU and $80 on the case isn't as worth it as spending $40 on the case and $170 on the GPU. Getting a stronger GPU means it'll run games at better settings and higher framerates which you will be noticing most of the time you're using your PC, and it'll last longer before you need to upgrade the PC again.
Shalashaska161
Member
Think I'm finally going to jump on the G-Sync train. What's everyone's thoughts on the Acer XB240H? Anything better in the 24 inch 120+ HZ range I should be looking at instead?
Technically she probably isn't allowed to transfer the Windows license to another PC. See here, Microsoft considers those licenses of Windows 10 that were upgraded from Windows 7/8/8.1 licenses to be "digital entitlement" and they aren't transferable to new computers like retail copies. You can try contacting Microsoft (see the section titled "Activating Windows 10 after a hardware configuration change") and explain to them that you are replacing certain parts and that it isn't a new and separate PC, perhaps they will help you reactivate that license of Windows 10 for your new hardware.
Yes. What power supply model is it, and will you be overclocking?
BorntoPlay
Member
The K series(The ones that overclock) doesn't come with a stock fan, the non-K, IE CPU: intel core i5-6500 3.2 GHZ quad core processor-199.98@ OutletPC in your post(That does not overclock) does.
You can overclock non-K series: Overclocking Non-K Intel Skylake CPUs (Performance Tests!)
This is from my build:
Blackage
Member
Almost pulled the trigger on this an hour ago, thought maybe I should run it by this thread beforehand.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($374.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Swiftech H220-X 55.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($189.95)
Motherboard: MSI X99A SLI PLUS ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($209.41 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX200 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.78 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($124.78 @ B&H)
Total: $1401.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-28 12:20 EST-0500
Few notes:
I have a GTX980 already in my current PC, was going to move it over, hence the lack of a video card.
Might add another 980 down the line or just wait for Pascal.
I wanted a AIO Liquid Cooler because everything I've read has led me to believe the 5820Ks run pretty hot, and of the AIO Liquid Cooler's Swiftech's H220-X2 Prestige is the quietest. Money isn't a problem but I don't feel like dealing with a custom loop.
Thoughts?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($374.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Swiftech H220-X 55.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($189.95)
Motherboard: MSI X99A SLI PLUS ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($209.41 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX200 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.78 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($124.78 @ B&H)
Total: $1401.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-28 12:20 EST-0500
Few notes:
I have a GTX980 already in my current PC, was going to move it over, hence the lack of a video card.
Might add another 980 down the line or just wait for Pascal.
I wanted a AIO Liquid Cooler because everything I've read has led me to believe the 5820Ks run pretty hot, and of the AIO Liquid Cooler's Swiftech's H220-X2 Prestige is the quietest. Money isn't a problem but I don't feel like dealing with a custom loop.
Thoughts?
It's technically not a new PC I've swapped out Mobo's before and Microsoft let me transfer my licesne.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
Anybody have experience with audio transducers? In particular I've been looking at the ButtKicker BK4-4, but it might be overkill for my setup. I'm looking for something to attach to my HOTAS/sim chair.
The i7 5820K can run hotter than the usual range of Intel quad core processors, but unless you plan to do extreme overclocking, it's not necessary at all to buy a $190 water cooler. Something like the Noctua NH-D15 ($90) will do very well and already be extremely quiet, enough for most people to not notice. I'd also recommend a noise-absorbing case like the Fractal Define R5 ($110~120) or Define S ($80~90) to further cut down on noise. For X99, you want 4x4GB instead of 2x8GB so the RAM runs in quad channel mode. Also, there are better power supplies for quite a bit less money than the Cooler Master model.
Do you really need a DVD drive and Windows 10 Pro? USB drives and digital distribution methods like steam have replaced almost all need for discs, and will you actually be using the extra business/company oriented features that Windows 10 Pro has over Home edition? Otherwise Home edition is cheaper and doesn't include extras that you won't need.
That's fine, I'm just saying that Mr Swine will need to explain to Microsoft that it's not a new PC. I copied and pasted my reply from another post that was asking a similar question, so it's a bit weirdly worded.
Hey, do you have an alternative for RAM? Looks like that particular set of RAM sticks is hard to come by right now.
Normal, reboot.
I updated the wishlist, it should now show a different set of RAM. In case it didn't work for some reason, I selected this 2x8GB set of Kingston 2800MHz DDR4 RAM for 89.
fifasnipe2224
Member
Looking to build a PC for Sims 4 for about $300.00.
I already have an SSD, OS, and all the peripherals. Just need the tower components (without storage.)
Thoughts?
I already have an SSD, OS, and all the peripherals. Just need the tower components (without storage.)
Thoughts?
The Sims 3 has very light PC requirements. My girlfriend's laptop has an i5-5200U and it has no problems running the Sims 3 on integrated graphics. You could therefore spend less than $300.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($71.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($41.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Avexir Budget Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($27.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 950 2GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Azza Cosmas ATX Mid Tower Case ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $306.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-28 14:44 EST-0500
That's probably capable enough to play the Sims 3 as well as some newer games. If you wish to save money, you can go with a cheaper graphics card or even drop it altogether.
Performance-wise, not really. The i7 6700K is at an artifically high price right now due to high demand and lack of supply. Normally it would be much closer to the i7 4790K's price.
4790 is neck and neck on single core but the 6700 beats it overall by a slight amount. Is $70 worth an additional 3000 points in cinebench to you? The biggest advantage is DDR4 ram and having it for the future and future builds otherwise you'll have to swap the ram when you upgrade later.
http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-vs-Intel-Core-i7-4790K
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
Anyone selling a rig? Mid to high end. PM me.
QuantumSquid
Member
yo RGM, is the GTX 950 / i5 4460 / 8 GB RAM build I posted a good pairing for 1080p 60fps on medium settings now, 1080p 60fps on high/max settings later with a graphics card upgrade (to a 970 or equally priced card that performs well that is available at that time)?
also, what is the cheapest reliable place to get windows 10 OEM from?
also, what is the cheapest reliable place to get windows 10 OEM from?
Would you recommend something else if I had a bigger budget?
I bought Window 7 Pro from someone there for $10 and it was legit copy
pancakesandsex
Member
What's the best midrange nvidia card. I'm on a pre-sandy bridge i7 with a GTX460 at the moment and looking for something a little punchier in the 50-150$ range 2gb ram preferable.
Sloppy paste from speccy:
Sloppy paste from speccy:
Here's my usual disclaimer:
Cheap Windows licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for cheap, around 15 Euros or less. Windows 10 licenses are also available for a bit more. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or MSDNAA/Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months. The 7/8/8.1 keys should be upgradeable to Windows 10, but confirm with the seller to be sure, of course.
Yeah, the build should do well for that. You can definitely drop in a GTX 970 or other card in the future to replace the GTX 950.
As for a reliable place to get Windows.. other than the reddit place, you could try neogaf's B/S/T thread.
Not really. Motherboards don't influence performance that much outside of overclocking potential. I usually avoid recommending expensive motherboards unless they have some feature that a user absolutely needs.
Sorry, I just noticed the Gigabyte motherboard isn't available at NCIX. Either of those remaining two should be just fine. The MSI model has lot of positive reviews and while the Asus model has fewer reviews, they're also mainly positive and it includes USB 3.1 which you may be interested in.
Thanks! I noticed on ncix a special on the MSI z97 Gaming 5. Seems to have pretty good reviews.
How about memory? My preferred brand is Corsair, what should I go with?
Does it have to be an Nvidia card? The strongest graphics card you can get for your budget is this AMD R9 380 for $150. Otherwise the best Nvidia card you can get for that money is the GTX 950 which starts at around $130. In general, the R9 380 is a match for the GTX 960, to give you an idea of the difference in performance. Performance can vary by the game and graphics settings, of course.
Yes, the MSI Z97-Gaming 5 does have good reviews. I think it's a bit too expensive to recommend but I suppose if you wanted a higher end model, it's not bad at all.
How much RAM are you looking for, 8GB or 16GB?
QuantumSquid
Member
Cool. What is the reddit place, by the way? If options are that limited I might have to check it out.
To put it into perspective 90% of games will run on less than 8. I got 16GB for my new build because a few higher end ones are starting to recommend higher than 8.
Not really. Few people need 32GB unless they're doing some very intensive work on their PC, in which case they probably know if they need it. I know you said you prefer Corsair, but this 2x8GB kit of G.Skill 2133MHz RAM is well priced at $100, and G.Skill is fairly well known for RAM. The best deal on Corsair branded RAM is this 2x8GB kit of 2400MHz RAM for $120.
The reddit microsoftsoftwareswap link is in the post you quoted, just look above my reply to yours. Or whatever, just go here.
That's American, he's looking for Canadian deals. He also needs DDR3 and not DDR4.
Oh dang woops lol sorry. Just seen the name and price.
Heya, I'm wanting to build a PC, and hopefully keep it pretty cool and quiet. My main intent is playing the latest and greatest (upcoming) PC games, with an eye towards Oculus/Vive. I use a 1080p 60hz monitor so can hopefully crank things up a bit. Additionally I do some video rendering/ game capture, hence the HDD.
I'll be reusing a blu ray drive and PSU (Corsair TX750), and *maybe* the case. It's a cheap and not very quiet P.O.S. though, so leaning towards a new case.
Also, should I look at AIO water cooling instead?
This is what I have so far:
Thanks for any advice!
I'll be reusing a blu ray drive and PSU (Corsair TX750), and *maybe* the case. It's a cheap and not very quiet P.O.S. though, so leaning towards a new case.
Also, should I look at AIO water cooling instead?
This is what I have so far:
Thanks for any advice!
Sleeping Lesson
Member
You want it off completely? I mean, you could set up a custom fan curve so it's off at low temperatures, but I don't recommend having it stop. At least leave it at like 10%.
Well I got my new RAM(Kingston Hyper Fury X DDR4) to test in my defunct ASUS Maximus Hero VIII board(still won't POST). No matter what combo of slot or stick I try, the PC will not push anything to the monitor or go to BIOS. Power is fine as all fans and LED's are functioning, but the DIMM Yellow light stays on for awhile during MEM ok! tests and eventually shuts off as no lights are on while the Q-code '32' sits idle on the board. (32=Post CPU Initialization?)
Thus my conclusion is that either my board or CPU is rotten and not a RAM problem. I really have no idea what that code refers to. I have a new Mobo on the way from Gigabyte this time. Just worried it is for naught as maybe the i7 chip went bad afterall?
I re-seated the processor just in case. It is still in perfect condition as no pins are bent or out of place and the chip itself looks just as new as it was 2 weeks ago. (No change doing so. Black monitor screen, no Mobo beeps, everything powered and spinning, but zero activity until code 32 shows up a few minutes after running the startup checks.)
I am at a loss, but I guess I will see how the mobo replacement goes and if nothing posts, I'll RMA for CPU replacement.
Thus my conclusion is that either my board or CPU is rotten and not a RAM problem. I really have no idea what that code refers to. I have a new Mobo on the way from Gigabyte this time. Just worried it is for naught as maybe the i7 chip went bad afterall?
I re-seated the processor just in case. It is still in perfect condition as no pins are bent or out of place and the chip itself looks just as new as it was 2 weeks ago. (No change doing so. Black monitor screen, no Mobo beeps, everything powered and spinning, but zero activity until code 32 shows up a few minutes after running the startup checks.)
I am at a loss, but I guess I will see how the mobo replacement goes and if nothing posts, I'll RMA for CPU replacement.
Ally1987
Member
At least something like 10% yes, and I have set up a custom fan curce in Afterburner, but it still won't go under 22% no matter what I do?
pancakesandsex
Member
Yeah nvidia or bust. I have never had a good experience with AMD, their drivers are consistently garbage
I_D
Member
Alright, I'm pulling my hair out here. Anybody have any ideas?
A few days ago, my PC shut off while watching a movie. There was no warning.
The next morning, it turned on just fine for a while, then turned off again. Now it doesn't turn on at all.
If I unplug the PSU and replug it, then press power, the fans spin for a fraction of a second (less than one full rotation) then it turns back off.
I have unplugged everything unneeded (RAM, SATA, fans, etc.) and the problem still persists.
I tried the PSU in another computer, and the problem persisted, so I assumed it was a bad PSU. I just bought a new power-hungry GPU, as well, so it seems like the best culprit.
After buying another PSU, though, the problem is still there. I've hooked up the new PSU to a different computer and have confirmed that it works just fine.
Everything looks fine and smells fine. I see no obvious damage, and the computer has not been moved in ages.
So my question: Does this mean there's something wrong with my MOBO or CPU? Is there a way to test either?
I can put my CPU into another computer, but I'd rather not have to mess with reseating if I don't have to.
This is the MOBO: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157303
Sidenote: Removing the CMOS battery is going to require prying it out, since it's locked in. I'll reset it if I have to, but that's another thing I'd rather avoid, since I don't know if I can take it out of its housing without causing damage.
A few days ago, my PC shut off while watching a movie. There was no warning.
The next morning, it turned on just fine for a while, then turned off again. Now it doesn't turn on at all.
If I unplug the PSU and replug it, then press power, the fans spin for a fraction of a second (less than one full rotation) then it turns back off.
I have unplugged everything unneeded (RAM, SATA, fans, etc.) and the problem still persists.
I tried the PSU in another computer, and the problem persisted, so I assumed it was a bad PSU. I just bought a new power-hungry GPU, as well, so it seems like the best culprit.
After buying another PSU, though, the problem is still there. I've hooked up the new PSU to a different computer and have confirmed that it works just fine.
Everything looks fine and smells fine. I see no obvious damage, and the computer has not been moved in ages.
So my question: Does this mean there's something wrong with my MOBO or CPU? Is there a way to test either?
I can put my CPU into another computer, but I'd rather not have to mess with reseating if I don't have to.
This is the MOBO: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157303
Sidenote: Removing the CMOS battery is going to require prying it out, since it's locked in. I'll reset it if I have to, but that's another thing I'd rather avoid, since I don't know if I can take it out of its housing without causing damage.
Hello PC community. I'm having some issues with my new PC and I'm wondering if it's safe to try and trouble shoot here or if there's another thread for it? A lot of you have helped me with my PC in the past so I kinda want everyone's help but don't want to clutter the PC thread with troubleshooting issues.
I don't want to pay a computer technician so you guys are my only hope D:
I don't want to pay a computer technician so you guys are my only hope D:
EVA UNIT 01
Member
Just ran into a dispute with a friend over this CPU:
CPU: intel core i5-6500 3.2 GHZ quad core processor-199.98@ OutletPC
Over whether or not it comes with a stock fan.
The confusion being over it being/not being part of a K series.
Gaf-stock included or not?
CPU: intel core i5-6500 3.2 GHZ quad core processor-199.98@ OutletPC
Over whether or not it comes with a stock fan.
The confusion being over it being/not being part of a K series.
Gaf-stock included or not?
opticalmace
Member
i5-6500 comes with a cooler, yup.
EVA UNIT 01
Member
Thanks.
That additional cooler is being taken out of the build then since no OC will be done.
BorntoPlay
Member
Yes, the 6500 is a non-k processor and include a stock cooler, but you could overclock anyway with a Z170 motherboard and the lastest bios...
Obviously, Is it necessary to have an aftermarket cooler for overclocking.... Overclocking Non-K Intel Skylake CPUs (Performance Tests!)
EVA UNIT 01
Member
Thanks for the info.
Anyone have experience with this card?
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-r9380gaming4g
Can it handle 1080/60 on pretty much anything?
Thanks for the reply RGM. You continue to be the savior of this thread.
Thankfully, I didn't have to get that far down the rabbit hole. I did a little more digging and saw that I was using the Intel AHCI/RAID driver for the SATA controller already, so I figured if it's the same driver for both, that shouldn't really be an issue.
I updated the BIOS (this is probably what did it - the newer BIOS had "Improved M.2 Support" or something) and when I went to change the SATA controller to AHCI, I noticed that it was already set to AHCI. I thought this might have been because I shorted the CMOS pins to reset the BIOS prior to flashing the firmware, so I changed it RAID. Windows wouldn't boot so I changed it back to AHCI and presto: All 5 HDDs recognized by the BIOS and by Windows.
I've built enough PCs to know that sometimes you solve the issue without really knowing the specific action that solved it. I'm just happy to be up and running at full capacity!
Not really. The only advantage is multicore and DDR4, but the performance difference is so minimal in your typical day to day (or game to game) activities.
Also, DDR3 is super cheap right now.
EVA UNIT 01
Member
Repost.
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-r9380gaming4g
This thing solid for 1080/60 on pretty much anything currently out?
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-r9380gaming4g
This thing solid for 1080/60 on pretty much anything currently out?
Sleeping Lesson
Member
Hm, I wonder if Afterburner has some kind of safety. Have you tried any other fan control software?
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