Just pulled two graphs from one review, but looks like the answer is no. Not on Ultra at any rate. If you can't get 60 on Ultra from BF4 or Crysis 3 - both not games I would consider 'new' - you might wanna look at something else.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Just pulled two graphs from one review, but looks like the answer is no. Not on Ultra at any rate. If you can't get 60 on Ultra from BF4 or Crysis 3 - both not games I would consider 'new' - you might wanna look at something else.
catapult37
Member
Advice?
Current:
i5 2500k
GTX 970 Windforce
After months of great gaming performance, I started getting serious, consistent microstutter. RMA'd my 970 but it looks like they are sending it back with no fixes needed.
Almost a year ago, I did a dumb thing to my motherboard. I accidentally pulled off half of one of its PCIe slots. Amazingly, it continued working all this time (and I switched from crossfire 6950s to my current setup).
So I suspect the board now.
- possible other causes for sudden microstutter?
- ways to know for sure it's the mb?
- where to go if replacing the mb? I get a good OC out of my 2500k... maybe just buy another cheap LGA1155 board? Or upgrade to maybe a 4690k setup?
Current:
i5 2500k
GTX 970 Windforce
After months of great gaming performance, I started getting serious, consistent microstutter. RMA'd my 970 but it looks like they are sending it back with no fixes needed.
Almost a year ago, I did a dumb thing to my motherboard. I accidentally pulled off half of one of its PCIe slots. Amazingly, it continued working all this time (and I switched from crossfire 6950s to my current setup).
So I suspect the board now.
- possible other causes for sudden microstutter?
- ways to know for sure it's the mb?
- where to go if replacing the mb? I get a good OC out of my 2500k... maybe just buy another cheap LGA1155 board? Or upgrade to maybe a 4690k setup?
QuantumSquid
Member
The R9 380 is the equivalent of a GTX 960 but with a little more juice. If you want 1080 60 on anything without doing much settings tweaking, you'll need to put up the cash for a 970 or R9 390.
EVA UNIT 01
Member
It's about 20% better in most synthetic benchmarks and averages better FPS across the board with a few "nvidia optimized" outliers ex. GTA5. Also the original poster mentioned that ultra was not a priority.
http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-R9-380-vs-GeForce-GTX-960
Here's a video comparison
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C70BubcRcTQ
EVA UNIT 01
Member
I was aiming for high settings but it seems to fall just short of 60fps there as well without overclocking which I wont be doing.
I havnt fully ruled out this card yet but i am still eyeing the 970
There are factory overclocked ones http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202166&cm_re=r9_380-_-14-202-166-_-Product
Hey if your heart is set on the 970 get the 970 though no reason to regret it later. 390 is the AMD equivalent on that and is slightly cheaper (just slightly).
EVA UNIT 01
Member
Yeah fuck it.
Id only end up wanting the 970 anyway.
Ill go with the zoltac you showed me.
Wag
Member
I purchased an Asrock n3700-ITX motherboard for a HTPC setup and I'm having problems getting Win10 to install in UEFI mode on it. I thought I had the BIOS set to UEFI, I first booted off the Win10 USB flash install. That should have worked.
2nd time I made a UEFI NTFS bootable flash disk with Rufus and loaded the Win10.ISO image to it. Still ACPI.
I make sure my hard disk's format is GPT.
Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Latest BIOS.
2nd time I made a UEFI NTFS bootable flash disk with Rufus and loaded the Win10.ISO image to it. Still ACPI.
I make sure my hard disk's format is GPT.
Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Latest BIOS.
flyinpiranha
Member
I got two Win8.1 and Office from there about a year or so ago. One of the 8.1 keys does not validate anymore after upgrading parts, had to use my works MSDN to get it up and running. Other PC hasn't had the validation thing pop up yet.
Haven't tested the office install in a while.
So for the past couple of days I've been trying to determine where a faint, high-pitched noise had been coming from. It's not incredibly audible (mostly only notice it with the sound off while using the computer), but annoying nonetheless. Turns out it's actually coming from my monitor (this BenQ)
I've read this may have something to do with one of the capacitors going bad? To be honest I don't really know much about it so I was wondering if anyone else knows anything or has had a similar problem in the past. Thinking about exchanging it, as I'm pretty sure the noise wasn't present when I first got the monitor. But I guess I could be wrong, maybe it's normal for there to be a bit of noise?
I've read this may have something to do with one of the capacitors going bad? To be honest I don't really know much about it so I was wondering if anyone else knows anything or has had a similar problem in the past. Thinking about exchanging it, as I'm pretty sure the noise wasn't present when I first got the monitor. But I guess I could be wrong, maybe it's normal for there to be a bit of noise?
Go ahead, if we can answer your question we will. We don't discourage questions in this thread. If you want to cast a wider net to get more visibility and hopefully more replies, you can also crosspost the problem in the TechSupportGAF thread.
Depends on the game and what settings and resolution to play at. Assuming 1080p, you'll have to play on medium to perhaps high settings, and with some settings like hairworks, MSAA, or other similarly taxing graphics options turned down or off. Definitely not 60FPS on ultra settings for the latest games.
What are your full system specs? Socket 1155 motherboards are somewhat hard to come by, seeing as they're discontinued and whatever remaining stock is whatever's left. You may even have to consider looking for a used motherboard. Does changing the graphics settings affect microstutter in the slightest? Is microstutter a constant problem or does it mainly happen during more intensive or specific moments of gameplay?
Have you tried looking for powersaving options in the BIOS (and motherboard utilities if installed) and disabling them?
My BenQ E2220HD started producing a high pitched noise a couple of weeks before it died. Who knows how long your monitor has left, but maybe start looking for new monitor deals sometime soon.
Thanks for the advice! yeah I'll be taking out the GPU, I just hope the AIO cooler and the CPU doesn't get damaged in the shipping.
Ally1987
Member
No. wich one can I use?
Thats a GPU bios limitation, possibly a custom bios may let you edit that.
Ally1987
Member
Ahhh... okey. nevermind then. I don't want to play with custom bios.
catapult37
Member
Full specs.
CPU: i5 2500k @ 4.0Ghz
Cooler Master Hyper 212
MB: GIGABYTE GA-P67A-UD4-B3
Ram: 1x8 GB DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
PSU: 750W Corsair TX Power Supply
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1 "FTW" edition
HD: 256 GB Crucial SSD
Stutter:
- consistent in MGSV
- consistent in skyrim (most noticeable -- spin the camera and it skips every couple millis)
- occasional on rocket league
- noticeable on sonic all stars racing
Haven't tried lowering graphic settings too much, but have tried less intensive games. Haven't looked at BIOS power saving options yet.
The issues started out of the blue; no related hardware or software changes. Updating GeForce drivers didn't help.
Downclock the video card to a stock 970 speed spec. Monitor ingame, with MSI Afterburner or similar software, and see if the stutter happens when it's approaching and/or exceeds 3.5GB VRAM.
Dual channel really makes a difference. That may be the root of your stutter.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
I tested it last night with EVGA Precision and was able to make my fan stop completely. I'm using an EVGA card, though.
catapult37
Member
I tried this before sending it off, but I couldn't see any smoking gun. Will look again when I get it back from RMA.
Was 2x2GB before last summer, then switched.
I should stress I've played most of the way through MGSV and Witcher 3 on this setup with no issues. That seems to indicate some component is failing somehow.
BTW, I'm currently using a 6950 in the PC, and there is no stuttering, but of course, I can't push it the same as the 970, so I'm not clear what that tells me. I had hoped Gigabyte would find a problem in the GPU.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
Now that y'all mention it, I've been getting stutter playing The Witness. It's never much, a stutter here and there every few minute.
Hey everyone, I have recently starting having a problem with my computer. The computer itself won't turn on, and I think the problem is the connection between the PSU and the motherboard. My PSU is the EVGA 750 b2, which I was able to test with the jumper included (it worked just fine), but when it is plugged in to my ASRock z97 extreme3 motherboard, it refuses to power on, I assume because it doesn't detect the connection. It takes quite a bit of effort to push the connector far enough in for it to click, but I'm not sure if that is a huge issue. The wire isn't frayed, and it was all working 3 weeks ago before I went on a trip. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks!
Here's the full build: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Arramos/saved/J4LTwP
Edit: got it working, for some reason it didn't work when I had the 24-pin cable pushed all the way in to the motherboard (enough for it to click), but I decided to try just pushing it in to the point where it was snug and starting giving good resistance, and it worked.
Here's the full build: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Arramos/saved/J4LTwP
Edit: got it working, for some reason it didn't work when I had the 24-pin cable pushed all the way in to the motherboard (enough for it to click), but I decided to try just pushing it in to the point where it was snug and starting giving good resistance, and it worked.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
For me, I didn't notice any. The Witness barely has any audio, though.
No none of that I'm running a gtx980ti and even in games of dota and more recently the division beta I get small bits of stutter here and there, I noticed windows 10 pushed an update a few days ago I'm wondering if something got turned on or something through that.
So in the past week or so during Borderlands 2 I've been getting crashes where coloured vertical lines appear (second monitor goes black) and I have to reset my computer using the power button. My temps are around 60°C when the crashes happen and they occur more frequently if I let it get near 70°C.
Google tells me my GPU is fudged. Is it?
Google tells me my GPU is fudged. Is it?
Prob not a Dpc issue then but you could always check using latency mon.
I've been pondering this for a few days now, so I figured I should just ask here..
Is there any reason to get a 5820k system over my current 6600k system for specifically gaming/voip? Is hyper threading a bigger thing for AAA games now? I also like to run multiple games sometimes (play a different game while queued for league).
I had a 3570k my last build, but I played almost everything on consoles and it was a league/csgo machine basically. (back in pc gaming now, playing mostly everything on pc.)
Money isn't really an issue, but I kinda wanted the best bang for my buck without paying for anything I didn't need. (Opted out of the 6700k due to it being over MSRP)
Is there any reason to get a 5820k system over my current 6600k system for specifically gaming/voip? Is hyper threading a bigger thing for AAA games now? I also like to run multiple games sometimes (play a different game while queued for league).
I had a 3570k my last build, but I played almost everything on consoles and it was a league/csgo machine basically. (back in pc gaming now, playing mostly everything on pc.)
Money isn't really an issue, but I kinda wanted the best bang for my buck without paying for anything I didn't need. (Opted out of the 6700k due to it being over MSRP)
Muffin Awesome
Member
Since it is a peripheral I figure I can post his question here.
I just purchased this mouse, it is the first time I have ever owned a gaming specific mouse.
Anyone who has this mouse or in general recommendations for setting up the DPI that I should do immediately?
I just purchased this mouse, it is the first time I have ever owned a gaming specific mouse.
Anyone who has this mouse or in general recommendations for setting up the DPI that I should do immediately?
QuantumSquid
Member
The Rival 300 is a great mouse. Download SteelSeries Engine if you haven't already and set the DPI to whatever you were used to with your old mouse. If you play Counter-Strike, I recommend 400 DPI. If you play a lot of MOBA games, I recommend 800 DPI or perhaps 1000 (your old mouse might have used 1000).
Make sure you disable mouse acceleration, mouse smoothing, angle snapping, etc. inside the SteelSeries Engine. Those will all make your mouse movements less consistent and for games that require you to have good aim, it will mess you up.
QuantumSquid
Member
My only idea is that maybe there was a power outage/power surge while you were on your trip and it caused some damage. Whoops, double post!
What are your system specs? I wouldn't think that 60~70 degrees is that bad, but if the GPU is already dying, it could make it worse. Actually, when you say 60 and 70 degrees, is that for the processor or graphics card, or both?
The 2500K can hit 4.5GHz fairly easily on a cheap air cooler. You may want to try for higher, depending on how far you're comfortable going. Anything above 4.5GHz you will need to perform some trial and error to see how lucky your 2500K can get going forward.
Not really, I don't think. Give it a try on your current system before considering buying a whole new CPU/motherboard/etc. The i5 6600K should be very capable.
So I've been playing a little of The Division beta, and based on that I have three general PC questions that I hoped some of you could answer for me (since I'm not very tech savvy):
1) Apparently my card (Sapphire 280X Dual-X) got as hot as 91 degrees Celsius. I can't recall it ever getting this hot with Witcher 3, MGS 5, Crysis 3 etc. I've been told AMD cards tend to get hot in general, but isn't 91 degrees pushing it?
2) Basically a follow-up to the first question, despite being so hot, the fans were relatively silent (1430 RPM/25% according to the above image). Is that normal? If not, how can I manually change it?
3) What's the difference between the two above RAM numbers? I have 8GB 1600MHz, so I assume it's the left number (5682MB) it used during gameplay, but what's up with the 9.5GB RAM, what does that mean?
1) Apparently my card (Sapphire 280X Dual-X) got as hot as 91 degrees Celsius. I can't recall it ever getting this hot with Witcher 3, MGS 5, Crysis 3 etc. I've been told AMD cards tend to get hot in general, but isn't 91 degrees pushing it?
2) Basically a follow-up to the first question, despite being so hot, the fans were relatively silent (1430 RPM/25% according to the above image). Is that normal? If not, how can I manually change it?
3) What's the difference between the two above RAM numbers? I have 8GB 1600MHz, so I assume it's the left number (5682MB) it used during gameplay, but what's up with the 9.5GB RAM, what does that mean?
So I've been playing a little of The Division beta, and based on that I have three general PC questions that I hoped some of you could answer for me (since I'm not very tech savvy):
1) Apparently my card (Sapphire 280X Dual-X) got as hot as 91 degrees Celsius. I can't recall it ever getting this hot with Witcher 3, MGS 5, Crysis 3 etc. I've been told AMD cards tend to get hot in general, but isn't 91 degrees pushing it?
2) Basically a follow-up to the first question, despite being so hot, the fans were relatively silent (1430 RPM/25% according to the above image). Is that normal? If not, how can I manually change it?
3) What's the difference between the two above RAM numbers? I have 8GB 1600MHz, so I assume it's the left number (5682MB) it used during gameplay, but what's up with the 9.5GB RAM, what does that mean?
Looks like it's adding your VRAM to the total maybe available VRAM?
Young Magus
Junior Member
So I just got a new pc last week (Dell Inspiron 3650) and it came with the gt 730.
Got a gtx750ti on the way and was wondering if I need to do anything on the computer beforehand to install the card or is it just remove-and-replace.
Thanks in Advance
Got a gtx750ti on the way and was wondering if I need to do anything on the computer beforehand to install the card or is it just remove-and-replace.
Thanks in Advance
Muffin Awesome
Member
Thank you for the heads up, I will do this tonight, if I disable these in the steel series engine should I also disable via in game menus as well? I am thinking CS go has those options in there.
Nevadatan
Member
so GAF last nite i was feeling cozy on my chilled room with the AC at max capacity and shitposting on my desktop when suddenly:
Today i go to the mall i bought an ASUS Strix GTX 980. did i do good?
too bad im stuck at work so i cannot install it. h-hold me
he's dead jim. Farewell my trusty HD 7770.
Today i go to the mall i bought an ASUS Strix GTX 980. did i do good?
too bad im stuck at work so i cannot install it. h-hold me
Lactose_Intolerant
Member
So I've been playing a little of The Division beta, and based on that I have three general PC questions that I hoped some of you could answer for me (since I'm not very tech savvy):
1) Apparently my card (Sapphire 280X Dual-X) got as hot as 91 degrees Celsius. I can't recall it ever getting this hot with Witcher 3, MGS 5, Crysis 3 etc. I've been told AMD cards tend to get hot in general, but isn't 91 degrees pushing it?
2) Basically a follow-up to the first question, despite being so hot, the fans were relatively silent (1430 RPM/25% according to the above image). Is that normal? If not, how can I manually change it?
Try updating your drivers if they aren't up to date. Some of the older crimson drivers had fan issues where it would reset to low % like you have and not go higher.
You can make a custom fan profile in stuff like MSI afterburner. If not, you can go into your driver settings and just turn it to manual or auto. The custom profile is much better.
QuantumSquid
Member
Yes, always disable mouse acceleration/mouse smoothing in games you play.
Unless you got it on sale, I'd return it and get a GTX 970 or a GTX 980Ti, depending on what you're looking for. The regular GTX 980 has basically no reason to exist.
Nevadatan
Member
i got it for 330usd, did i fuck it up?
QuantumSquid
Member
nah, that's a decent price for a 980. only slightly more expensive than a 970 usually is. I would keep it at that point
QuantumSquid
Member
Double posting like a thug, anyway...
You will need to turn off the computer and unplug it from power, open up the computer, remove the 730 and any cables attached to it, and put in the GTX 750Ti and put the cables that were previously in the 730 into the 750Ti.
Be sure to get the proper drivers for the 750Ti as well once you're done.
Nevadatan
Member
i may be wrong, but aint the Inspiron desktops way too small for a GTX to fit in it?
Hi I just have a question about installing windows 10. Im going to upgrade first but I want to do a clean install after I upgrade. Im just wondering what the best way is to put all of my files and programs onto an external hard drive and then back on to 10 once I do the clean install. I just want my program files the same so I dont lose my steam games etc.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Edit: Im on Windows 8.1
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Edit: Im on Windows 8.1
CraigerGamer
Member
Saw this for $900 (includes monitor)
Specs: Ostrog GT Case
CPU: Intel 3570k 3.4GHz with turbo to 3.8ghz
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyer evo 212
Motherboard - Asus P8Z77-V LK
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB DDR3 1600
GPU: MSI GTX 970 Golden Edition
PSU: Corsair CX600M
Wireless Card: TP Link N300
CD Drive: Samsung Black Sata DVD-ROM
Samsung EVO 840 120GB
Monitor: ASUS VS Series VS228H-P Black 21.5"
I know the 3570 is an older card but reviews on it seem pretty good. Can't seem to find a decent price on on as they are pretty much out of stock everywhere.
Specs: Ostrog GT Case
CPU: Intel 3570k 3.4GHz with turbo to 3.8ghz
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyer evo 212
Motherboard - Asus P8Z77-V LK
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB DDR3 1600
GPU: MSI GTX 970 Golden Edition
PSU: Corsair CX600M
Wireless Card: TP Link N300
CD Drive: Samsung Black Sata DVD-ROM
Samsung EVO 840 120GB
Monitor: ASUS VS Series VS228H-P Black 21.5"
I know the 3570 is an older card but reviews on it seem pretty good. Can't seem to find a decent price on on as they are pretty much out of stock everywhere.
Thanks, RGM. Maybe at the most I'll just pick up a Kaby Lake i7 and be done with it, lmao.
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