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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Any particular reason you chose that CPU? It's a 2 generation old pentium and I don't think you can even buy them new anymore. If you haven't already bought it I would probably spring for an AMD A series APU and ignore getting a GPU altogether.
Yeah I already have it and a mobo. Won it on a Facebook pc almost 2 years ago.
 
I'm not quite ready to upgrade, but the 6500 vs 6600K decision is killing me. The 6600K is about $100 more after price difference and after market cooler. I just keep remembering that I wish I had go the 2500K back in the day over the 2400, but at the same time very few games stress my 2400 at this point. When they do stress it though....
 

bomblord1

Banned
I'm not quite ready to upgrade, but the 6500 vs 6600K decision is killing me. The 6600K is about $100 more after price difference and after market cooler. I just keep remembering that I wish I had go the 2500K back in the day over the 2400, but at the same time very few games stress my 2400 at this point. When they do stress it though....

The 6600 non K is a good middle ground I was looking at it for a while.
 

Jimrpg

Member
Building my mom a cheap pc. She just wants it to browse the web. I believe her monitor is 1600p. Should I go with 2gb gt 610, 1gb gt 720, or just use the on board graphics? Cpu is intel g2030

1600p or 1600x900 (which is 900p)

If you're just browsing the web, on board graphics would be sufficient.
 
The 6600 non K is a good middle ground I was looking at it for a while.

That's $20 more, but I don't see much a of a difference between that and the 6500. If I'm spending more I might as well go all the way. I think I'm going to get the 6600K I need a 4Ghz plus cpu for reasons.
 

Sky Chief

Member
Great recommendations. Do you think the 5820k out performs the 4790k?



I think I will be changing my motherboard now. Thanks for the tip

I'll chime in and say that if you're going for a quiet system the EVGA cards are not the best. Other manufacturers have much more efficient and quieter cooling systems.
 

Jimrpg

Member
That's $20 more, but I don't see much a of a difference between that and the 6500. If I'm spending more I might as well go all the way. I think I'm going to get the 6600K I need a 4Ghz plus cpu for reasons.

$20 more for the speed difference - 6500 (3.6Ghz) v 6600 (3.9Ghz) seems reasonable. I'd get the 6600 over the 6500.

I haven't really run into that many games this generation that have been that CPU intensive, so I haven't really found the need to overclock much. I think a large part of it is that the consoles have such low CPU clock speeds.
 
So you don't think I need a dedicated gpu? Even at 2560x1600?

I Goggled G2030 graphics and people are playing GTA4, Battlefield 3 and Watchdogs on the integrated graphics. Low as hell settings and like 20fps, but it's working. It should be enough for 2D graphics. If you still feel the need for a DGPU you might as well take the 730 for $10-$12 more.

$20 more for the speed difference - 6500 (3.6Ghz) v 6600 (3.9Ghz) seems reasonable. I'd get the 6600 over the 6500.

I haven't really run into that many games this generation that have been that CPU intensive, so I haven't really found the need to overclock much. I think a large part of it is that the consoles have such low CPU clock speeds.

Yeah, it might be worth it. Even if I had a 2500K right now I feel like it's time for more/faster ram although I could definitely hold out. Skylake is a big upgrade either way.
 
I don't know about Tomb Raider, but you should consider overclocking that CPU. It's really slow... That should help more in most games than buying RAM.

I haven't had any problems running games with my cpu, and as I said in my post, I don't overclock. Plus my ram are mixed, so changing that is more important.
 

Flintty

Member
£300 is a tight budget I hope you have a spare windows key/copy lying around or you'll have to add another ~ £60 for windows 8.1.
This system for £306 is definitely capable of running games for your daughter in full HD on high settings and high frame rates.
I thought about cutting out the GPU and going for a APU solution (A10 7870k) but honestly it's not worth it as you'd 'just' safe around £30 and performance would be significantly worse.

Awesome, thanks so much. Yeah it is a pretty tight budget :( I'm hoping to be able to swap out components later on as and when required to make the system better for her as here requiremetns grow. Thankfully I do have a copy of Windows 8 which I'm hoping can still upgrade to 10 for free :)
 

holygeesus

Banned
So I just had a go at overclocking for the first time...

I went to town in the BIOS and adjusted a load of stuff, although left the voltage in offset mode.

I got my i5 2500k to 4.7 and the voltage moves between 1.38 and 1.39.

Temps after 15 minutes on prime95 didn't go higher than 75, what do I need to change or should I stick with and see if it keeps on running ok?

75 seems high to me.

You could try backing off on the voltage a little and see if it remains stable, but those temps are fine. If it doesn't remain stable with a little less juice, just buy a new cooler for your CPU if you aren't happy.
 

ISee

Member
Awesome, thanks so much. Yeah it is a pretty tight budget :( I'm hoping to be able to swap out components later on as and when required to make the system better for her as here requiremetns grow. Thankfully I do have a copy of Windows 8 which I'm hoping can still upgrade to 10 for free :)

I think you can upgrade to win 10 till June 2016, or so.
To be honest when it comes to upgradeability the system isn't good, but I wanted to make it as cheap as possible, if upgradeability is a goal for you then I'd like to suggest a slightly more expansive and more modern LGA 1151 system.
It has a more powerful CPU, a much better motherboard, faster ram (and ddr4 support) and a more powerful power supply.
In the end you can easily swap out the pentium CPU with a modern and up to date skylake i3 or i5. Get a faster pascal gpu and you can even go for modern AAA titles.


PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/K4YYnQ
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/K4YYnQ/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Pentium G4400 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor (£50.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: MSI H170A PC Mate ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£80.99 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£31.98 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£33.98 @ Novatech)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R7 250X 2GB Video Card (£70.80 @ More Computers)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H25 ATX Mid Tower Case (£29.49 @ Ebuyer)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (£34.99 @ Novatech)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-118CB/BEBE DVD/CD Drive (£8.75 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £341.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-03 10:56 GMT+0000
 

Hoo-doo

Banned
So i'm finally making my way back into PC gaming. First order of business is to replace most of the innards of my aging PC desktop.
I'm not looking for bleeding-edge tech or 4K resolutions in 120FPS. I want to play games at 1080p with nice framerates without breaking the bank.

That said, here are the components i'm currently considering: (EDITED)

CPU - Intel Core i3-6100
Motherboard - Gigabyte GA-H110M-S2H
GPU - Gigabyte Radeon R9380 - 4GB GDDR5
Memory - 2x4GB Crucial Ballistix Sport
SSD - Kingston SSDNow V300 120GB

I'm already covered on OS, monitor, peripherals, case, harddrive, CD/RW drive and 1000W power supply.

Any of you have any suggestions or advice concerning the parts I picked out?
I'm mainly thinking about wether the parts i've selected are offering the best bang for the buck.
 
So i'm finally making my way back into PC gaming. First order of business is to replace most of the innards of my aging PC desktop.
I'm not looking for bleeding-edge tech or 4K resolutions in 120FPS. I want to play games at 1080p with nice framerates without breaking the bank.

That said, here are the components i'm currently considering:

CPU - AMD FX 8320 Black Edition
Motherboard - ASUS M5A78L-M LX3
GPU - Gigabyte Radeon R9380 - 4GB GDDR5
Memory - 2x4GB Crucial Ballistix Sport
SSD - Kingston SSDNow V300 120GB

I'm already covered on OS, monitor, peripherals, case, harddrive, CD/RW drive and 1000W power supply.

Any of you have any suggestions or advice concerning the parts I picked out?
I'm mainly thinking about wether the parts i've selected are offering the best bang for the buck.

I wouldn't recommend an FX AMD processor for gaming 3 years ago, even less in 2016. It makes no sense as a choice, bad performance, bad frametimes and old platform which means you miss on everything else. Hell even an i3 6100 is a LOT better for gaming if you are on a budget. Go skylake + DDR4 or at least haswell if you can find a deal.
 

Hoo-doo

Banned
I wouldn't recommend an FX AMD processor for gaming 3 years ago, even less in 2016. It makes no sense as a choice, bad performance, bad frametimes and old platform which means you miss on everything else. Hell even an i3 6100 is a LOT better for gaming if you are on a budget. Go skylake + DDR4 or at least haswell if you can find a deal.

I've just found out the same thing. I've already switched it out for a i3-6100 at the moment, which leaves me more room for upgrades in the future.

Thanks for the advice.
 

ISee

Member
Any good article/source comparing 4 cores vs 8 cores (or 4c/8t) in latest games?

There was an article in the January'16 pcgameshardware magazine (german). Overall 4C/4T vs 4C/8T can give up to ~15% in gaming scenarios @ same clock speeds, but also often enough the difference is not even worth mentioning. When it comes to encoding or editing going for an i7 is definetly the way to go as HTT helps a lot.
But overall for gaming, higher clockspeed are more important then HTT. So in the end going for an i5 K model for overclocking instead of a non overclockable i7 model makes much more sense when it comes to performance. Of course an i7 K model is the way to go if you are looking for the very best standard consumer solution.

You can also use their CPU index on their website.
Just scroll down, select 'gaming' in the 'Benchmark' labeled drop down box. Select 'Alle ein-/ausblenden' in the 'Produkte ein-/ausblenend' drop down box and then just select the CPUs you want to compare.
 
For the longest time now I have moved from a HAF X in order to slim down my PC. I currently have a HAF XB, which is nice but I am thinking smaller now.

I presume I would have to move to ITX which is fine, I am due an upgrade from 2700k soon. I have an MSI R9 390. The one thing I worry about is space for my HDDs I have 3 HDDs and an SSD. I only just have enough space for them in my HAF XB.

What are some good cases/must have equipment for such a build?
 

Random17

Member
So I have a spare 250gb ssd from samsung (850 evo).

I want to see if I can install it into my old pc.

Two problems:
1. I dont know exactly what I need
2. Pcpartpicker suggests some incompatibilities with my motherboard, wire issues idk

i5 3470
GA-B75M-D2V
750ti
1TB HDD
Coolermaster Gladiator 600 case
Optical drive
 
So I have a spare 250gb ssd from samsung (850 evo).

I want to see if I can install it into my old pc.

Two problems:
1. I dont know exactly what I need
2. Pcpartpicker suggests some incompatibilities with my motherboard, wire issues idk

i5 3470
GA-B75M-D2V
750ti
1TB HDD
Coolermaster Gladiator 600 case
Optical drive

As far as I can see it should work. Just make sure it is in your one SATA3 port. Also make sure in the BIOS it is connected in AHCI mode.

All you would need is a SATA3 cable, SATA power from your PSU and a place to put your SSD (if there are no 2.5" brackets you could use velcro or something for example).
 

Random17

Member
As far as I can see it should work. Just make sure it is in your one SATA3 port. Also make sure in the BIOS it is connected in AHCI mode.

All you would need is a SATA3 cable, SATA power from your PSU and a place to put your SSD (if there are no 2.5" brackets you could use velcro or something for example).
Wouldn't that require removing the hdd though?
Only 1 sata 3 port?
 

jediyoshi

Member
Wouldn't that require removing the hdd though?
Only 1 sata 3 port?

6986.jpg

If your SATA3 (SATA 6Gb/s) is already occupied by your HDD, move it to one of the SATA2 (SATA 3Gb/s) ports. Then use the SATA3 for your SSD.
 

Flintty

Member
I think you can upgrade to win 10 till June 2016, or so.
To be honest when it comes to upgradeability the system isn't good, but I wanted to make it as cheap as possible, if upgradeability is a goal for you then I'd like to suggest a slightly more expansive and more modern LGA 1151 system.
It has a more powerful CPU, a much better motherboard, faster ram (and ddr4 support) and a more powerful power supply.
In the end you can easily swap out the pentium CPU with a modern and up to date skylake i3 or i5. Get a faster pascal gpu and you can even go for modern AAA titles.

That looks entirely reasonable and for little extra cost. Thanks again for your help :)
 
Would it be worth replacing the stock cooler of the 4590? After Friday I don't think I'll be touching the inside of my PC again for a while so it's kind of now or never thing.

My 2310 always ran hot (lost the luck of the CPU draw on that one) so I might be a bit more nervous about heat than I otherwise would be. But I have the cooler already, and it feels like a waste to not be using it.
 

Foxyone

Member
Anyone happen to know the best reasonably-priced Z97 motherboard? Doesn't need wake-on-lan like I was asking about last time, but SLI / Crossfire support would be nice.
 

Brandon F

Well congratulations! You got yourself caught!
A 120gb ssd should be enough for just basic Web browsing right?

I have Windows 10 and other necessary productivity programs installed on a 120GB SSD acting as my main drive. Currently left with ~60GB free after everything needed was installed. So yea, plenty of room(mileage may vary of course depending on what software you want outside of the usual suspects).

I do have my Steam library sitting on a Western Digital 1TB mechanical drive however. Depending on how many games you wish to have installed at once, you will need a second drive for that stuff. Fortunately, a drive such as this is super cheap to come by these days. (And honestly, I have yet to run into a game with loading times that demand the extra cost of SSD speeds if you wish to avoid paying extra for capacity).
 

bomblord1

Banned
Anyone know what's up with the i7-6700 (non k) on newegg? It gets restocked maybe 1 time a week and then sells out immediately. I've set up availability alerts but the times it's available I don't have the money on hand.
 
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