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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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What cooler would be good for a i7-6700K? Looking to upgrade but have no idea about the cooler.

From what I understand, unless you're going to overclock to the absolute extreme, the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo aught to work just fine. If you are going more hardcore, though, you might consider a Noctua NH-D14 (if your case can fit it and you ram doesn't have bigass fins) or a Corsair H100i (if your case has a 240mm radiator mount.)
 

Erekiddo

Member
I pre-purchased XCOM 2 on Steam, and for the first time, my graphics card does not meet the recommended requirements. I have a GTX 760 and it recommends a 770. Probably not too impacting, but I'd like to upgrade my graphics card.

Looking into a GTX970. I have an ASUS Z87-C motherboard, i5 processor and 8GB of RAM.

There is an... overwhelming amount of different varieties of GTX970's. Which one would you all recommend?
 

jediyoshi

Member
+1 for the 212 Evo.

Was a nightmare for me to install, but it's the only non-stock cooler I've used so I'll chalk it up to me being inept.
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
Quick question, I'm trying to delay upgrading my PC as long as possible, still running 8gb ram, a 770gtx and a 2600k @4.7ghz. To keep modern games like the Witcher 3 moving along without issue I close nearly every running application before launching, which takes a few minutes as I tend to run a lot of backgorund stuff (like security cam software, teamviewer, cloud storage software, ect).

Anyone know of a good program to batch close applications?
 

OraleeWey

Member
I pre-purchased XCOM 2 on Steam, and for the first time, my graphics card does not meet the recommended requirements. I have a GTX 760 and it recommends a 770. Probably not too impacting, but I'd like to upgrade my graphics card.

Looking into a GTX970. I have an ASUS Z87-C motherboard, i5 processor and 8GB of RAM.

There is an... overwhelming amount of different varieties of GTX970's. Which one would you all recommend?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487076
 
Are wireless keyboards still considered shit tier? I've got a older (bought it used a couple of years back) mechanical keyboard that's abit beat up and I'm digging the freedom of wirelessness.

Or is just a newer mechanical keyboard the way to go?
 

e90Mark

Member
Are wireless keyboards still considered shit tier? I've got a older (bought it used a couple of years back) mechanical keyboard that's abit beat up and I'm digging the freedom of wirelessness.

Or is just a newer mechanical keyboard the way to go?

Pretty sure there's a few wireless mechanical keyboards from top tier companies that you may be interested in trying out.
 
Can anyone suggest a decent 1080p monitor for $200-$250? I'm going to build a PC for my son, and feel comfortable with that part, but I haven't purchased a computer monitor since my old (awesome) 1024x768 Viewsonic in about 2000. I've been using TV's and a projector to game every since and so I feel way behind the time on monitor tech. I know about IPS vs TN and understand refresh rates, etc, so don't hold back on the terminology - I just need some bang-for-the-buck recommendations. I plan on spending around $700-$1000 on the PC, itself, so that will tell you the type of resolution and power I'm targeting. He will use it mostly for gaming and light video editing for his youtube videos.

edit: 27" would be preferable, but I would take 24" if I can get better technology for the same money.
 

LilJoka

Member
So I've been playing a little of The Division beta, and based on that I have three general PC questions that I hoped some of you could answer for me (since I'm not very tech savvy):

statspmscf.png


1) Apparently my card (Sapphire 280X Dual-X) got as hot as 91 degrees Celsius. I can't recall it ever getting this hot with Witcher 3, MGS 5, Crysis 3 etc. I've been told AMD cards tend to get hot in general, but isn't 91 degrees pushing it?

2) Basically a follow-up to the first question, despite being so hot, the fans were relatively silent (1430 RPM/25% according to the above image). Is that normal? If not, how can I manually change it?

3) What's the difference between the two above RAM numbers? I have 8GB 1600MHz, so I assume it's the left number (5682MB) it used during gameplay, but what's up with the 9.5GB RAM, what does that mean?

3. RAM and pagefile
 

shandy706

Member
I need some help from someone more knowledgeable.

My board is the still going strong X58 with an i7 920.

I was under the impression that one could use dual channel RAM with the board, despite it being a triple channel setup (6 slots 2x3)..???

I had two sets of ram in the slots as follows..

2+2+2GB DDR3

1+1+1GB DDR3

So, my current RAM setup was 9GB.

I thought I could take a set of 8GB (4x2GB DDR3 dual channel kits) and just pull 3 of them out. That would be 2+2+2GB of DDR3. I pulled the 1+1+1GB kit out of my system and expected my new setup..

2+2+2GB DDR3

2+2+2GB DDR3

..to be 12GB. However, instead my system (Windows 10 64bit) says that I have 10GB of RAM installed and only "(7.99GB usable)"

How do I fix this? Might this be a firmware thing for the board? Am I missing something? Am I an idiot? Should I go to a different thread for this? LOL

I was under the impression that Windows 10 didn't have any kind of RAM limit (anywhere near 12GB at least).

Thanks!!!!
 

LilJoka

Member
I need some help from someone more knowledgeable.

My board is the still going strong X58 with an i7 920.

I was under the impression that one could use dual channel RAM with the board, despite it being a triple channel setup (6 slots 2x3)..???

I had two sets of ram in the slots as follows..

2+2+2GB DDR3

1+1+1GB DDR3

So, my current RAM setup was 9GB.

I thought I could take a set of 8GB (4x2GB DDR3 dual channel kits) and just pull 3 of them out. That would be 2+2+2GB of DDR3. I pulled the 1+1+1GB kit out of my system and expected my new setup..

2+2+2GB DDR3

2+2+2GB DDR3

..to be 12GB. However, instead my system (Windows 10 64bit) says that I have 10GB of RAM installed and only "(7.99GB usable)"

How do I fix this? Might this be a firmware thing for the board? Am I missing something? Am I an idiot? Should I go to a different thread for this? LOL

I was under the impression that Windows 10 didn't have any kind of RAM limit (anywhere near 12GB at least).

Thanks!!!!

How many sticks does the BIOS read? Try resetting the BIOS to defaults.
If that fails, remove the modules and try install them again.

And which motherboard?
What RAM exactly? Model numbers?
 

shandy706

Member
How many sticks does the BIOS read? Try resetting the BIOS to defaults.
If that fails, remove the modules and try install them again.

And which motherboard?
What RAM exactly? Model numbers?

I'll have to check this evening. I was in a rush last night. I'll try your first suggestion tonight and check back. It's weird that it sees 10GB...but only lets me "use" 8gb".

They seemed seated just fine. I've searched and it appears I'm not the only person with the problem. Unfortunately fixes seem really random.
 

LilJoka

Member
I'll have to check this evening. I was in a rush last night. I'll try your first suggestion tonight and check back. It's weird that it sees 10GB...but only lets me "use" 8gb".

They seemed seated just fine. I've searched and it appears I'm not the only person with the problem. Unfortunately fixes seem really random.

Some other things to check, make sure the RAM kits are each in corresponding channels. So RAM Kit 1 of matched DIMMs are channel A, and RAM kit 2 all in channel B.

BIOS update might solve the 8gb usable issue, possibly its the initial bios it shipped with, which would be very out dated. Would need mobo model to really know.
 

Random17

Member
So I internally installed the 850 evo SSD into the Sata 3 port.

When I run data migration however, it doesn't work as I get a failed to reset defragmentation 205410 [032262] error

Bios is on IDE as that's the only way to boot.

Or should I clean install Windows onto the SSD, and force boot to the SSD, while keeping my 1tb hdd files intact? If so how?
 

LilJoka

Member
So I internally installed the 850 evo SSD into the Sata 3 port.

When I run data migration however, it doesn't work as I get a failed to reset defragmentation 205410 [032262] error

Bios is on IDE as that's the only way to boot.

Or should I clean install Windows onto the SSD, and force boot to the SSD, while keeping my 1tb hdd files intact? If so how?

Unplug HDD
Set BIOS to AHCI
Plug SSD in
Fresh install Windows
Shutdown
Set SSD as first boot device in BIOS
Connect HDD
You'll see the HDD in my computer as a secondary drive. Use as normal. Delete the Windows folders etc from the HDD.
Point the home folders on the SSD to the locations of the the home folders existing on the HDD.
 

Random17

Member
Unplug HDD
Set BIOS to AHCI
Plug SSD in
Fresh install Windows
Shutdown
Set SSD as first boot device in BIOS
Connect HDD
You'll see the HDD in my computer as a secondary drive. Use as normal. Delete the Windows folders etc from the HDD.
Point the home folders on the SSD to the locations of the the home folders existing on the HDD.
Dumb question, how can I fresh install Windows with only my SSD plugged in?

Thanks

Media creation tool? How can I authenticate if necessary?
 

Burkatron81

Member
Evening all, scrolling though this thread im seeing plenty of chatter about hardware but very little about software. Im curious to know what you guys recommend using for anti-virus/net protection in 2016? I pickup my new rig tomorrow and wanna keep that baby safe and sound :)
 

Brandon F

Well congratulations! You got yourself caught!
Evening all, scrolling though this thread im seeing plenty of chatter about hardware but very little about software. Im curious to know what you guys recommend using for anti-virus/net protection in 2016? I pickup my new rig tomorrow and wanna keep that baby safe and sound :)

Kaspersky is my recommendation.
 

Caffeine

Member
i just use router firewall, windows defender, spybot search and destroy, and malwarebytes.
have for over 4 years been clean.
 

REMAINSILLY

Member
So, for my Console Equivalent Build I have an i3-4170 paired with a GTX 960 2GB. Playing Rise of the Tomb Raider on high settings (pretty much Xbox One equivalent), locked at 30 FPS is good, but I do sometimes get drops to 12-17ish for a few seconds when transitioning from exploration to gunplay. Digital Foundry said that the 960/i3 would be more than enough for RotTR oh high at 30 FPS, but as tax season nears, I'm thinking of upgrading either the CPU or GPU. Which is more important, or does it even matter with just a few seconds of dropped frames? (I know RotTR is a VERY high demanding game, so I just wanted some opinions)
 

Kipp

but I am taking tiny steps forward
So my parents' desktop needs an upgrade. Its main use is internet browsing and whatnot. Nothing too intensive.

I'm looking at buying these parts:
Intel i3-4160
ASRock H97M
EVGA 430
SilverStone PS08B

The parts I already have that I'll be keeping are:
4GB RAM (though I might buy 8GB RAM on the cheap from a guy on the B/S/T thread)
SSD and HDD
GeForce GTS240


Any comments or concerns?
 

rbnoble06

Neo Member
I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me decide on a new graphics card to upgrade from my current GTX 460.

I have around £160 to spend and these are the two cards I'm considering:

AMD MSI R9 380 4GB - £156.99.
Nvidia Gigabyte GTX 960 - £159.99.

I think they are pretty evenly matched in terms of performance, temperature, noise etc.

I have an AMD Athlon II X4 640 CPU @ 3.00GHz (not overclocked but probably will be looking into doing that in the future). with 8GB RAM.

Any help would be very appreciated!
 

BumRush

Member
Hey PC-GAF, I have a question.

Before I ask it, I'm looking for my parents, so please no "build one yourself" posts. I'm not looking to do that at all and they are never going to game on it. Thanks in advance.

Is something like the following desktop w/ no monitor a decent deal for $400 or is that a ripoff?

Processor: Intel Core 4th Gen i5-4590 Processor (Quad Core, 3.30GHz Turbo, 6MB)
Windows 8.1 Pro (Free Upgrade to Windows 10 Pro)
1TB 7200 rpm SATA 6Gb/s Hard Drive
8 GB Dual Channel DDR3 at 1600MHz (2x 4GB) Non-ECC
16X DVD +/- RW Drive
Intel Integrated Graphics

Thanks again!!
 

Sky Chief

Member
How does msi rank?

From everything I've read MSI's cooler is one of the best for cooling and quiet operation.

Also, based on the reviews I've seen I would still consider the P2 PSU you originally had picked over the G2 based again on quiet operation. Not that the G2 is loud but I've only heard exceptional things about the P2 and its passive mode.

I agree with that guy's other suggestions fully and would say if your heart is set on the Enthoo case to get it because it looks really bad ass and is supposed to be amazing. Not sure how quiet it is but you are picking quality, high power, low noise components so I think you're good. I'm pretty sure with the MSI cards, a P2, and that case you're still a couple hundred bucks under $3000 and your system sounds pretty drool worthy.
 

shandy706

Member
I need some help from someone more knowledgeable.

My board is the still going strong X58 with an i7 920.

I was under the impression that one could use dual channel RAM with the board, despite it being a triple channel setup (6 slots 2x3)..???

I had two sets of ram in the slots as follows..

2+2+2GB DDR3

1+1+1GB DDR3

So, my current RAM setup was 9GB.

I thought I could take a set of 8GB (4x2GB DDR3 dual channel kits) and just pull 3 of them out. That would be 2+2+2GB of DDR3. I pulled the 1+1+1GB kit out of my system and expected my new setup..

2+2+2GB DDR3

2+2+2GB DDR3

..to be 12GB. However, instead my system (Windows 10 64bit) says that I have 10GB of RAM installed and only "(7.99GB usable)"

How do I fix this? Might this be a firmware thing for the board? Am I missing something? Am I an idiot? Should I go to a different thread for this? LOL

I was under the impression that Windows 10 didn't have any kind of RAM limit (anywhere near 12GB at least).

Thanks!!!!

How many sticks does the BIOS read? Try resetting the BIOS to defaults.
If that fails, remove the modules and try install them again.

And which motherboard?
What RAM exactly? Model numbers?

Some other things to check, make sure the RAM kits are each in corresponding channels. So RAM Kit 1 of matched DIMMs are channel A, and RAM kit 2 all in channel B.

BIOS update might solve the 8gb usable issue, possibly its the initial bios it shipped with, which would be very out dated. Would need mobo model to really know.

Alright, tried a number of things and we have SOME success.

On boot the BIOS now reads 12GB (yay...for a second haha).

However, when I get in Windows it says this.

"Installed Memory (RAM) : 12.0 GB ( 8.99 GB Usable )"

LOL

So the full amount is recognized now...but it's now saying 9GB usable despite recognizing 12GB installed. This is annoying, lol.

Not sure what to do next.



Edit** I may have just troubleshot myself out of it...woohoo!!!!

I went into my boot under MSCONFIG and for some reason "Maximum Memory" was checked. It makes no sense though...as it was checked and set as 2.8GB...wtf?

I unchecked it....I restarted the system, and now it says "Installed Memory (RAM) : 12.0 GB". No more "usable" line is there.

Crossing my fingers that I just got lucky!

I'll leave this here in case it helps anyone else.
 

Poker360

Member
From everything I've read MSI's cooler is one of the best for cooling and quiet operation.

Also, based on the reviews I've seen I would still consider the P2 PSU you originally had picked over the G2 based again on quiet operation. Not that the G2 is loud but I've only heard exceptional things about the P2 and its passive mode.

I agree with that guy's other suggestions fully and would say if your heart is set on the Enthoo case to get it because it looks really bad ass and is supposed to be amazing. Not sure how quiet it is but you are picking quality, high power, low noise components so I think you're good. I'm pretty sure with the MSI cards, a P2, and that case you're still a couple hundred bucks under $3000 and your system sounds pretty drool worthy.

Thanks!
This is what i have as of now after recommendations. Despite recommendations against water cooling, for aesthetic reasons mainly i'm not wanting to block view of everything. Not sure if the H80i GT is overkill or not?
Ended up going with the Gigabyte GA-z170x lga 1151 motherboard. Per other recommendations i think it would be smart to still go with skylake and an lga 1151 motherboard for future proof reasons.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($411.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i GT 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($87.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($184.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($326.89 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ B&H)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX ATX Mid Tower Case ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($144.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $2826.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-03 19:08 EST-0500
 

bomblord1

Banned
Thanks!
This is what i have as of now after recommendations. Despite recommendations against water cooling, for aesthetic reasons mainly i'm not wanting to block view of everything. Not sure if the H80i GT is overkill or not?
Ended up going with the Gigabyte GA-z170x lga 1151 motherboard. Per other recommendations i think it would be smart to still go with skylake and an lga 1151 motherboard for future proof reasons.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($411.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i GT 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($87.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($184.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($326.89 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ B&H)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX ATX Mid Tower Case ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($144.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $2826.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-03 19:08 EST-0500

Looks like a great build I agree on the bolded.
 
Hey PC-GAF, I have a question.

Before I ask it, I'm looking for my parents, so please no "build one yourself" posts. I'm not looking to do that at all and they are never going to game on it. Thanks in advance.

Is something like the following desktop w/ no monitor a decent deal for $400 or is that a ripoff?

Processor: Intel Core 4th Gen i5-4590 Processor (Quad Core, 3.30GHz Turbo, 6MB)
Windows 8.1 Pro (Free Upgrade to Windows 10 Pro)
1TB 7200 rpm SATA 6Gb/s Hard Drive
8 GB Dual Channel DDR3 at 1600MHz (2x 4GB) Non-ECC
16X DVD +/- RW Drive
Intel Integrated Graphics

Thanks again!!

Fucking steal that is (for a pre built.)
 

Sky Chief

Member
Thanks!
This is what i have as of now after recommendations. Despite recommendations against water cooling, for aesthetic reasons mainly i'm not wanting to block view of everything. Not sure if the H80i GT is overkill or not?
Ended up going with the Gigabyte GA-z170x lga 1151 motherboard. Per other recommendations i think it would be smart to still go with skylake and an lga 1151 motherboard for future proof reasons.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($411.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i GT 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($87.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($184.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($326.89 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($649.99 @ B&H)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX ATX Mid Tower Case ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($144.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $2826.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-03 19:08 EST-0500

Yeah man, that looks amazing. I would have gone with an AIO Water Cooling solution as well not only for looks but it's also a lot easier to install / don't have clearance issues.
 

Random17

Member
Does anybody have any idea how to move program files/pictures etc without redirecting folders? I've installed an SSD with Windows on it, while everything else is on 3 hard drive partitions on a 1TB HDD.
 

Bradf50

Member
Hi guys. Been a Mac ( currently on a MBP Retina) user for a long while now and would like to build my first gaming/work pc. I've been doing abit of research on the components I would like (see below), but I just would like to put it to you guys too see if there's anything you would change for the better of the build. Being a designer by profession this will be used for graphic/motion design & video editing etc, hence the processor choice (do you guys agree?). I do plan on overclocking the cpu to around 4.2 ghz so input on the cooler I've chosen would also be of great value. But I want something with a good chunk of power to play games well. :) In a couple of months I'm looking to pick up an ultrawide monitor (one of the 3440x1440 34" ones). I assume this build will have enough grunt to at least play modern games at high settings at hopefully 60fps?

EDIT: I would say my budget is around what it is now, maybe £1850 maximum. :)

Anyway, any input would be appreciated.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor (£329.98 @ Novatech)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£100.27 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI X99A SLI PLUS ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard (£174.98 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory (£175.16 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£119.00 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£42.99 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£42.99 @ Ebuyer)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (£549.99 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid Tower Case (£149.59 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£90.11 @ Amazon UK)

Total: £1775.06
 
I do have a question though. How do I go about putting windows on it? I have a 4 Gb flash drive. Talked to guy on phone and he said that I needed to buy windows from them and they would send it to me on a flash drive. There has to be a more immediate way right?
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
I just wanted to tell you guys that I am having such a fun time building my first PC!

My parts arrive tomorrow, case is coming on Friday... This should be an experience.

Congrats, enjoy it guys. It seems like just yesterday when I built my first (although that was about 13 years ago haha). Remember to take your time and make the internal wiring look good at the end, some people skip this step lol.
 

bomblord1

Banned
I haven't bought it yet. Can I do that online? I mean can I buy the key and load it onto my flash drive and then onto the rig or do I have to buy windows and have them send it to me preloaded on a flash drive?

You HAVE to have the activation key to do it the way I linked as long as you have the key you don't need the media they will send.

I don't know where you live but stores like Target, Best Buy, and Staples all sell copies of Windows that have all the necessary things you need to install it.
 
You HAVE to have the activation key to do it the way I linked as long as you have the key you don't need the media they will send.

I don't know where you live but stores like Target, Best Buy, and Staples all sell copies of Windows that have all the necessary things you need to install it.

Can I just buy the activation key online?
 
Alright. So it's all put together now. Hopefully I did alright.

WP_20160204_00_04_08_Pro.jpg


WP_20160204_00_16_47_Pro.jpg


WP_20160204_00_41_46_Pro.jpg


What is the first thing I should do before and right after I turn it on? For some reason this is the part that has me the most nervous to do.
 

Mutagenic

Permanent Junior Member
My roommate bought a heatsink for his K processor, and now when he boots his computer back up after installation, it's turning itself off after a few seconds then back on again. We read up on some possible solutions and troubleshooting options. We've tried everything. When he removed the CPU, we noticed some of the pins look to be bent down on the CPU socket of the motherboard. Does this look to be reason for alarm? He doesn't remember if it looked like that originally before installing the heatsink.

KnsbHUX.jpg
 
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