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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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mSATA will only give you SATA like performance. That port will not support a PCIe SSD like say the Samsung 950 Pro, but you can get an mSATA SSD in there and it should be better than a normal HDD.

Well the SSD in my desktop is a SATA one and it's noticeably much faster than its HDDs. So you're saying I would still get a big-ish improvement as long as I bought an mSATA M.2, or at least over 5400rpm?

EDIT: oh right, there's no such thing because they're separate things. I still can't find a good answer on if my laptop actually supports something like that. I'm definitely wanting something in the M.2 form factor at least so I can keep a hard drive in it.
 

LilJoka

Member
For a beginner with no knowledge has is this for a starter?

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/9ntC3C

I'd need a case and Windows still. (can't find a decent smallish case)

AMD is a dead socket with no upgrade path, avoid right now.
Go with Intel, pick up the i3 and then later you can switch in an i5 or i7. You may even want to explore going to the Skylake route since Non-K chips are somewhat overclockable, and you could stretch the i3 very far on that platform.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4170 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor (£91.98 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.49 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: MSI H97M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£66.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£32.67 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£34.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£38.44 @ Dabs)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card (£89.99 @ Novatech)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1500 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£39.50 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£44.17 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £465.21
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-13 13:15 GMT+0000

Exactly what is the budget?
What games do you play?
What resolution do you play at?
30 or 60 fps importance?
 

derExperte

Member
I'm looking for advice on an audio solution. I'm currently using a Creative XFI XtremeGamer sound card which is still good but it's 10+ years old and Creative told me directly it's not being fully supported any more and as such I'm having some issues with Windows 10 (some popping and mic noise in certain games). Using on board is not an option, while the sound is acceptable the mic quality is 10x worse. I'm looking for something in the £50ish price range, are there other options to a hardware sound card? If not what's a good, modern card being fully supported by the developer? I'm using a Sennheiser PC161 headset.

I went from the XGamer to onboard (f' that, didn't last a week) to a Recon3D (about as bad as onboard) to the Sound Blaster Z which works without a hitch under W10 and sounds at least as good as the XG. The bulk version without retail packaging can be had for ~60€ here so look for that.
 
So it looks like I won't be able to buy a GTX 970 until the 16th, when the offer ends, sadly. When will be the next bundle and could it be The Division?
 

harz-marz

Member
Hi guys... not sure if it's ok to ask this in here but I recently got Virgin Media's 200 meg broadband... the home plugs I have (AV 200Mbps) are only getting me download speeds on my PC of 50-60 Mbps.

Which home plugs should I go for to make the most of my new speed?

Thanks!
 

kubus

Member
Quick question, is it okay if the heat pipes on a cpu cooler touch anything? The pipes on the top shouldn't be too hot right?

I'm installing a TX3 Evo right now and the pipes are very slightly touching my case side fan. It's not the blades they're touching, but some plastic with LED cables, see this pic.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Hi guys... not sure if it's ok to ask this in here but I recently got Virgin Media's 200 meg broadband... the home plugs I have (AV 200Mbps) are only getting me download speeds on my PC of 50-60 Mbps.

Which home plugs should I go for to make the most of my new speed?

Thanks!

faster ones :p

No way to run an ethernet cable between your PC and router? I finally drilled a hole through our stairs to run ethernet cable and its so much better - was getting crappy results from a powerline.

if you're getting 50-60 from 200, then 500 should get you a decent upgrade for not too much money. Not tried the 1200 if anyone here has any feedback?
 

LilJoka

Member
Quick question, is it okay if the heat pipes on a cpu cooler touch anything? The pipes on the top shouldn't be too hot right?

I'm installing a TX3 Evo right now and the pipes are very slightly touching my case side fan. It's not the blades they're touching, but some plastic with LED cables, see this pic.

First it doesnt matter.
Secondly, side fans tend to make air flow worse. Try to remove it and see if you even notice a difference.
 

kubus

Member
First it doesnt matter.
Secondly, side fans tend to make air flow worse. Try to remove it and see if you even notice a difference.
Thanks, good to know it's not dangerous. I was able to move the side fan a little so maybe it'll fit this way... I'll see if I can find another way to minimize risks.

Removing it would definitely make a difference. No more awesome led lights :(
Jk, I had no idea that side fans could make air flow worse. I don't think I can test the difference now though, because I'm in the middle of replacing my stock fan with an aftermarket cooler.
 

carl32

Banned
Anyone got any suggestions for me, ideally i would like a Alienware Alpha with 960 or even 970 performance but obviously not available. So i would like as small as possible Pc, with a 960 or 970 with the option to upgrade to Pascal when available. Im presuming i need Skylake etc. Many thanks in advance for any advice from anyone.
 

LilJoka

Member
Thanks, good to know it's not dangerous. I was able to move the side fan a little so maybe it'll fit this way... I'll see if I can find another way to minimize risks.

Removing it would definitely make a difference. No more awesome led lights :(
Jk, I had no idea that side fans could make air flow worse. I don't think I can test the difference now though, because I'm in the middle of replacing my stock fan with an aftermarket cooler.

If you have atleast 1 exhaust and 1 intake that isnt too badly obstructed, with aftermarket CPU cooler, you should need the side fan.

Anyone got any suggestions for me, ideally i would like a Alienware Alpha with 960 or even 970 performance but obviously not available. So i would like as small as possible Pc, with a 960 or 970 with the option to upgrade to Pascal when available. Im presuming i need Skylake etc. Many thanks in advance for any advice from anyone.

Build in a RVZ02 or Node 304.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
Anyone have experience with media center PCs? I want to build something that I can plop down in the family room that will act as my PLEX (which my Roku 3 does right now), a Blu-Ray player, and an emulation station (for PS1 back). Anyone want to hook me up?
 

The Llama

Member
Anyone here use the Steam Link? Thinking of picking one up so I can stream games to my HDTV in my living room and play there. My router is there, so I can hardwire it, but my PC will be connected via a MoCA 2.0 connection. That should be a low enough latency to work well, right?

Just as an update in case anyone else is thinking of this, it works really well! Initially I had my desktop connected to my router via 802.11AC, and the Steam Link connected to the router via ethernet. It worked well, the latency was never an issue and picture quality was good enough (it got very poor with lots of movement though). Then I got my MoCA adapter and my experience has been even better. Latency is practically non-existent (ping from my router to the Steam Link is 2-3ms roundtrip) and picture quality is good even when there's lots of motion (it's really, really good with little motion).

So anyway, I highly recommend it if anyone else has a similar situation to me. Even if one leg of it has to be WiFi, if you have a good connection it's worth it IMO. Obviously I wouldn't get one if you want to play really twitchy shooters, but otherwise it's a great piece.
 

LilJoka

Member
Anyone have experience with media center PCs? I want to build something that I can plop down in the family room that will act as my PLEX (which my Roku 3 does right now), a Blu-Ray player, and an emulation station (for PS1 back). Anyone want to hook me up?

I have a dedicated HTPC in the lounge setup with XBMC (now Kodi). I think the only advantage of Plex server is that ability to transcode video to any sort of device for bandwidth of format compatibility.
I have a motherboad with onboard IR (CIR) which means hitting the Watch Movies button on the Harmony remote turns on the HTPC, it has XBMC on startup. Also switches the TV and Receiver inputs accordingly. And away you go.

Have a look at thin mini ITX if you want to do something neat and tidy. But even something like an Intel NUC works as these have CIR built in.
 

thenexus6

Member
AMD is a dead socket with no upgrade path, avoid right now.
Go with Intel, pick up the i3 and then later you can switch in an i5 or i7. You may even want to explore going to the Skylake route since Non-K chips are somewhat overclockable, and you could stretch the i3 very far on that platform.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4170 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor (£91.98 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.49 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: MSI H97M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£66.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£32.67 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£34.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£38.44 @ Dabs)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card (£89.99 @ Novatech)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1500 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£39.50 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£44.17 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £465.21
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-13 13:15 GMT+0000

Exactly what is the budget?
What games do you play?
What resolution do you play at?
30 or 60 fps importance?

I will not be playing the latest AAA games, as I have my PS4. This will be used for casual gaming, steam sales, older games etc..

If I were to boot up something like battlfield though, i'd like to get over 30 FPS at 1080p.

I would like to keep it under £450, but I know that isn't going to happen.. So I guess £500. I removed your case because the fractal 1000 is £29 on newegg and I like it better.

Also is reddit a good place for windows 10 keys? I see there is a board called Windows software swap.
 

OraleeWey

Member
I will not be playing the latest AAA games, as I have my PS4. This will be used for casual gaming, steam sales, older games etc..

If I were to boot up something like battlfield though, i'd like to get over 30 FPS at 1080p.

I would like to keep it under £450, but I know that isn't going to happen.. So I guess £500. I removed your case because the fractal 1000 is £29 on newegg and I like it better.

Also is reddit a good place for windows 10 keys? I see there is a board called Windows software swap.

I've gotten about 3 or so keys from Reddit and they all work fine. I got a cheaper 8.1 key and upgraded to Windows 10 every time.
 

thenexus6

Member
I've gotten about 3 or so keys from Reddit and they all work fine. I got a cheaper 8.1 key and upgraded to Windows 10 every time.

Interesting they are much cheaper..

I am looking at videos online people with the 4170 and 750TI are playing GTA V, RS Siege, Battlefront all on high / ultra over 30FPS at 900p which is more than enough for me!
 
Hey guys!

This is my current PC build (minus the case because I didn't want to dig through PCPartPicker's listings to find mine) with one expection: I currently have an Asus Strix GTX 970, and I listed an MSI GTX 980 ti because I'm thinking of upgrading to it.

My question is: Is my power supply going to be good enough? I'd rather not have to go out and get a 750w or something too but if 600 is too iffy I will.

Any opinions guys?
 
Hey, I know this is probably not the best place to ask but I've been having a lot of issues with Blue Screen of Death for a while now. They can happen every couple days or maybe just once a week. It's been happening since about November. I thought it was maybe that large update that Windows 10 got then but I'm not sure. I built my PC almost exactly a year ago and it was running fine. It's only the last 4 months or so it has been happening and I haven't managed to sort it out.

It could be my GPU but that's fully updated to 16.1.1 drivers. I might try going back to Catalyst drivers. I also installed 16GB ram so will try putting my old 8GB sticks back in. I have just updated my bios. I've read not to do that unless you are having a lot of issues. I was on version F4 (H97M-D3H) and i've just updated it to F7. I guess a clean install will need to be done too.

Other than that is there any other suggestions on what to try? I can't seem to find any error logs. When I boot into safe mode and go to Device Manager my monitor has a yellow ! mark (nothing else) beside it but it's not like i can update drivers or anything for it.
 

Jimrpg

Member
I've gotten about 3 or so keys from Reddit and they all work fine. I got a cheaper 8.1 key and upgraded to Windows 10 every time.

I've purchased 4 Windows 8.1 keys recently from Reddit Microsoft software swap, and 3 of them said "This product key doesn't work". Can't upgrade to Win 10 either. I contacted the guy today but no reply yet. Haven't tried the 4th key.

I don't mean to scare anyone off the subreddit because I've purchased two other Windows 8.1 keys and they worked fine. It's just annoying that I may or may not get a replacement key and I honestly don't know where they get their stock from. I'll update again when I hear from them. It's also a little frustrating because the computers are work PCs and I was mildly boasting that I found cheap Windows keys... Talk about egg on my face.
 

OraleeWey

Member
I've purchased 4 Windows 8.1 keys recently from Reddit Microsoft software swap, and 3 of them said "This product key doesn't work". Can't upgrade to Win 10 either. I contacted the guy today but no reply yet. Haven't tried the 4th key.

I don't mean to scare anyone off the subreddit because I've purchased two other Windows 8.1 keys and they worked fine. It's just annoying that I may or may not get a replacement key and I honestly don't know where they get their stock from. I'll update again when I hear from them. It's also a little frustrating because the computers are work PCs and I was mildly boasting that I found cheap Windows keys... Talk about egg on my face.

Two very different experiences indeed! I should note all my keys come from the same user. He may be a little slow to reply, but he always delivers. So there's that. But yeah, all 3 keys I got from him have worked so far.
 

Jimrpg

Member
Two very different experiences indeed! I should note all my keys come from the same user. He may be a little slow to reply, but he always delivers. So there's that. But yeah, all 3 keys I got from him have worked so far.

I got mine from GMachina.

I think I'll get mine from S5ean next time seeing as he's a moderator there.

Which user did you get yours from if you don't mind me asking?

I also got some office 2010, 2016, MS project 2016 keys too and they all worked fine. So I'm not sure what went wrong with those Windows keys, maybe I got upgrade keys not full keys?
 

LilJoka

Member
Hey, I know this is probably not the best place to ask but I've been having a lot of issues with Blue Screen of Death for a while now. They can happen every couple days or maybe just once a week. It's been happening since about November. I thought it was maybe that large update that Windows 10 got then but I'm not sure. I built my PC almost exactly a year ago and it was running fine. It's only the last 4 months or so it has been happening and I haven't managed to sort it out.

It could be my GPU but that's fully updated to 16.1.1 drivers. I might try going back to Catalyst drivers. I also installed 16GB ram so will try putting my old 8GB sticks back in. I have just updated my bios. I've read not to do that unless you are having a lot of issues. I was on version F4 (H97M-D3H) and i've just updated it to F7. I guess a clean install will need to be done too.

Other than that is there any other suggestions on what to try? I can't seem to find any error logs. When I boot into safe mode and go to Device Manager my monitor has a yellow ! mark (nothing else) beside it but it's not like i can update drivers or anything for it.

Use BSODviewer to try determine the dll that possibly is causing the problem or atleast the error being thrown.
 

kubus

Member
I'm with you on the innovations list, wireless electricity is being worked on as are seemingly everlasting batteries but even with these two the non-forming of dust would be a ground-breaking event, much like defeating the final boss :p

And that sounds like a plan! :D Yeah that's about what I paid for the TX3 too and for that it has insane value. For your side-CPU fan I would try to reattach it too, it's probably not needed but aslong as it doesn't cause any turbulence an extra fan can't be wrong. Theoretically It wouldn't even really matter if fan mounting-parts touch the heatsink aslong as no fans are being blocked or obstructed in their movement. Overclocking should be within moderate reach with the TX3 too.

Also yeah seems like it, I guess what you did was like a sequence-break in games but hey who cares aslong as you are the hero or heroine who gets the world saved :p

I don't really know much about thermal paste and just used the included one which works just fine with the pea-method. But maybe someone else can chime in or look around this link: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/360490-28-best-thermal-paste-lowest-temps

Report back how it goes :)
Wasn't able to do it yesterday because I didn't have anything to rub the old thermal paste off, but I had some Arcticlean delivered today so I just finished the install. It was scary as hell but... it works :p.

As I feared, the side fan still touched the cooler's pipes even if it was only 1mm but I was able to move the fan a little so I could keep it on. When everything was in place, my pc kept turning itself off after 5 secs, then turning on again, and off, etc. until I flipped the power switch so I was worried af that I messed it up. Fortunately it was fixed by removing two 2GB ram sticks. I think I damaged one of them during the install because it was such a tight space. Still have 2x 4GB in there, and I guess I'll just replace the two I removed with another 2x 4GB so I have 16GB total! This is never going to end, huh...

What really bugs me is the fan noise though. My pc went from dead silent to really noisy with this upgrade and I'm not sure it's supposed to be like that :/. Maybe I just have to get used to it. Temps are looking good tho, they're at 35C idle and 50C under load now. Should be safe to overclock a little!

I want to thank you again for all your help, I really appreciate it. Now I can finally use that overclocking guide you wrote :D
 
Where are you buying the parts from and how much does each one cost? If you have the money, I'd recommend going for the newer Intel 6th generation parts, like an i5 6500. You should go for 2x8GB of RAM instead of 4x4GB, there's no benefit to filling up all of your RAM slots. I would avoid WD Green drives, they're slower than the WD Blue models and probably cost around the same. The Seasonic PSU is a good choice for quality, but I'm almost certain I can find a better costing PSU that won't skimp on quality.

Hey man, Thanks for the response! I would probably consider Skylake but does non-K include a stock CPU cooler? I don't really plan to OC but non-Ks Skylakes can now be OC'd, right?

The 4X4GB is actually cheaper for some reason but thanks for letting me know about the slots.

As for the WD green, that was just a typo lol. But I read somewhere that green is just a rebranded blue? So that's not true?

For the PSU, well that's the cheapest one that I could find that's at least tier 2. Do you have some recommendation?
 

LilJoka

Member
Wasn't able to do it yesterday because I didn't have anything to rub the old thermal paste off, but I had some Arcticlean delivered today so I just finished the install. It was scary as hell but... it works :p.

As I feared, the side fan still touched the cooler's pipes even if it was only 1mm but I was able to move the fan a little so I could keep it on. When everything was in place, my pc kept turning itself off after 5 secs, then turning on again, and off, etc. until I flipped the power switch so I was worried af that I messed it up. Fortunately it was fixed by removing two 2GB ram sticks. I think I damaged one of them during the install because it was such a tight space. Still have 2x 4GB in there, and I guess I'll just replace the two I removed with another 2x 4GB so I have 16GB total! This is never going to end, huh...

What really bugs me is the fan noise though. My pc went from dead silent to really noisy with this upgrade and I'm not sure it's supposed to be like that :/. Maybe I just have to get used to it. Temps are looking good tho, they're at 35C idle and 50C under load now. Should be safe to overclock a little!

I want to thank you again for all your help, I really appreciate it. Now I can finally use that overclocking guide you wrote :D

Stick your ear in the PC and see what fan is so loud.
Then look at what connector its plugged into, is it powered by molex, 3 pin, or 4 pin fan header.
If its the latter then the motherboard should be able to control these fans.
Some boards have 3 pin headers that always run the fan full speed.
 

OraleeWey

Member
I got mine from GMachina.

I think I'll get mine from S5ean next time seeing as he's a moderator there.

Which user did you get yours from if you don't mind me asking?

I also got some office 2010, 2016, MS project 2016 keys too and they all worked fine. So I'm not sure what went wrong with those Windows keys, maybe I got upgrade keys not full keys?

I saw your reply earlier but I got busy at work. But I got my keys from DNK13. As far as your keys not working. I'm not sure. Make sure you're using the right creation media tool? If that doesn't work, then definitely contact the user you bought the keys from.
 

Bradf50

Member
Just about to bite the bullet on this build in the next day or so, just before I drop the cash just want to post here again and double check that there's no glaring problems with the components I've chosen. My biggest question is, the power supply. Is 750w enough for this build? I am planning to overclock the cpu so there's that to factor in. Any input will be appreciated.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor (£324.99 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£99.98 @ Novatech)
Motherboard: MSI X99A SLI PLUS ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard (£174.98 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory (£159.26 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£129.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (£553.60 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid Tower Case (£149.59 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£90.11 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1762.48
 

Crisium

Member
Just about to bite the bullet on this build in the next day or so, just before I drop the cash just want to post here again and double check that there's no glaring problems with the components I've chosen. My biggest question is, the power supply. Is 750w enough for this build? I am planning to overclock the cpu so there's that to factor in. Any input will be appreciated.

750W is fine.
 

Orin GA

I wish I could hat you to death
I took out my Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO becuase it was blocking my ram ports and installed a Swifttech H220x

Stress Test: Intel Burn [High] [10 cycles]
Fans/Pump [Performance Mode]
OC: 4Ghz
Cooler: Swifttech H220x

d2gbGW8.jpg



Are these temps acceptable for this OC?
 

LilJoka

Member
I took out my Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO becuase it was blocking my ram ports and installed a Swifttech 220x

Stress Test: Intel Burn [High]
Fans/Pump [Performance Mode]
OC: 4Ghz
Cooler: Swifttech H220x


Are these temps acceptable for this OC?

What CPU is this?
Temps are probably a little high, but it is Intel Burn Test, so that could be expected.

Was 1.15v the max vcore seen?
 

LilJoka

Member
Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor and yes

Well see how far you can push the clock speed at 1.155v (youll need to adjust the offset to hit this each time you increase multipliers).

If it wont go much further, see how far you can go by increasing vcore and clocks before hitting 80c.
 
Let us know how it goes.
I ordered and my parts have started arriving.
Lets see which noob can fuck this up the hardest ;)

Well, so far it's going very well! My case is on the way, but someone hacked my Amazon account which led to my bank blocking my card the same day I ordered the rest of the parts, so now I have to wait on a new card to come in the mail before I can place the order. So I'd say things are moving along quite smoothly.

I find it extremely bizarre and coincidental that this happened like as soon as I placed my order apparently, but the bank found unauthorized charges from Amazon I know I didn't make, and the $1,000+ order I did make was put under suspicion and cancelled. It had to have happened within a few hours of me placing the order as the order went through but then asked to revise my payment method. So the unauthorized charges literally struck shortly after I had placed the order. It's just weird.
 

popo

Member
What is the truth behind the spin on Skylake cpus and Windows 7?

MS obviously want everyone to upgrade but there seems to be mixed messages about Skylake needing Window 10, but then saying OEM manufacturers will get 18 months of support.

Say that I am not quite ready to upgrade to win10 on my main machine - what is the viability on using win7 for at least a year with a skylake build?

Also, the skylake cpus are about the same price as haswell/devils canyon at any given performance level. My first impulse is to get the newer chip but going for the older chip would save me some money on motherboard and reusing some ddr3 I already have. What are people thinking on this?

thx
 
What is the truth behind the spin on Skylake cpus and Windows 7?

MS obviously want everyone to upgrade but there seems to be mixed messages about Skylake needing Window 10, but then saying OEM manufacturers will get 18 months of support.

Say that I am not quite ready to upgrade to win10 on my main machine - what is the viability on using win7 for at least a year with a skylake build?

Also, the skylake cpus are about the same price as haswell/devils canyon at any given performance level. My first impulse is to get the newer chip but going for the older chip would save me some money on motherboard and reusing some ddr3 I already have. What are people thinking on this?

thx

You will be fine using Skylake and Windows 7.
Microsoft is only saying that they want to push Windows 10 more, and that Windows 7 and Windows 8.1 do not get get optimizations regarding newer CPU's. Software and everything will be still provided by the manufacturers (e.g drivers)
It depends, how much you want to spend, but if you have the choice you should go with Skylake CPU's, because they are more efficient and they are not getting so hot, especially the i5-6600 is really cool even under heavy load computing.
I tested this myself running Prime95 and Furmark. I'm using a Corsair Water cooling solution.
 

LilJoka

Member
What are acceptable temps for a 4.0 boost?

It doesnt work like that. Firstly when we judge we take in to account the stress test, the cpu, the cpu vcore and the overclock. Also Ambient temps play a big role.

All you need to know is that up to 80c is safe to test with.

26c ambient temps make your temps make more sense. Most will be at 21c or lower when reporting. Every degree of ambient temp will give exponential increase in core temps.
 
So I've updated my build and my budget.

PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/DwdxnQ
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/DwdxnQ/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor (£186.99 @ Ebuyer)

Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£120.10 @ More Computers)

Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£66.10 @
Novatech)

Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£129.98 @ Novatech)

Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card (£504.99 @ Amazon UK)

Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£82.99 @ Novatech)

Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£90.11 @ Amazon UK)

Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 144Hz 27.0" Monitor (£499.99 @ Amazon UK)

Total: £1681.25

I'm upgrading from a Intel Core 2 Quad Q6700 with 4.00GB ddr2 and a GTX460.

Also got an old samsung 23" monitor I'm moving to this from.

Haven't bought a computer in a very long time so am pretty nervous about this. What I was thinking with this build is that in a year or two I could stick in another 980ti and get a nice performance boost.

Breaking the bank for this PC so it better be worth it!
 

LilJoka

Member
So I've updated my build and my budget.

PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/DwdxnQ
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/DwdxnQ/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor (£186.99 @ Ebuyer)

Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£120.10 @ More Computers)

Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£66.10 @
Novatech)

Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£129.98 @ Novatech)

Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card (£504.99 @ Amazon UK)

Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£82.99 @ Novatech)

Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£90.11 @ Amazon UK)

Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 144Hz 27.0" Monitor (£499.99 @ Amazon UK)

Total: £1681.25

I'm upgrading from a Intel Core 2 Quad Q6700 with 4.00GB ddr2 and a GTX460.

Also got an old samsung 23" monitor I'm moving to this from.

Haven't bought a computer in a very long time so am pretty nervous about this. What I was thinking with this build is that in a year or two I could stick in another 980ti and get a nice performance boost.

Breaking the bank for this PC so it better be worth it!

What is the aim here:
You are looking to SLI later (why didnt you run GTX 460 SLI?)? 980Ti SLI would warrant 850W imo, and otherwise 650W would be the right amount.
If yes, ok ATX is justified, otherwise look at mATX.
Why Z series board and non-K chip, are you looking to do unofficial overclocking?
DDR4-2133 CL14-14-14 @1.2V, not brilliant, but maybe if you can get that running CL12 it would be ok. A build like this warrants 2666 CL14.
Most of your case will be empty space, might want to make it a bit more efficient in terms of case size.
 

CISphil

Neo Member
Overclocked my 4690k to 4.2Ghz yesterday from the 4.0Ghz my motherboard was able to do automatically (with lower v-core to boot). I feel like I should be able to get 4.4Ghz but my PC crashed when doing a stress test (Passmark) right before it finished. Temps hit 70C maximum and hovered around 66C. It did the same @4.3 so I left it at 4.2 where it was comfortable (66C maximum). Could this be an issue with setting my V-Core setting to adaptive? Should I try setting this manually or just give up? I didn't want to play around too much because I'm not confident with this stuff but the setting did seem to be working ok (upping and lowering the voltage when under load).
But there was some success at least overclocking my 970 (via Afterburner). Core clock +150, memory clock +380. I'm happy with that, let me turn on MSAA in Rainbow Six.
Here's my full specs by the way (including all extras). I put this together back in September/October: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/c9gz23 As an aside, I really like the G502 that I accidentally left in my basket.
 
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