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[kubus]

Stick your ear in the PC and see what fan is so loud.
Then look at what connector its plugged into, is it powered by molex, 3 pin, or 4 pin fan header.
If its the latter then the motherboard should be able to control these fans.
Some boards have 3 pin headers that always run the fan full speed.

It's definitely the cpu fan. It's a four pin plugged into a PWM header. When I boot up the pc the fans don't make so much noise, but soon after (about 15 seconds) they kick into full gear and never stop, even when the temperatures don't go higher than 32C.

How does the motherboard control the fans? I assume that means they should spin faster when load increases. It seems like they're always spinning on 100% though. Any way to control this?

edit: Never mind, I figured it out. Went into motherboard bios and smart fan control was disabled. Set it to 55C and now my pc is silent again .

 

[LilJoka]

Overclocked my 4690k to 4.2Ghz yesterday from the 4.0Ghz my motherboard was able to do automatically (with lower v-core to boot). I feel like I should be able to get 4.4Ghz but my PC crashed when doing a stress test (Passmark) right before it finished. Temps hit 70C maximum and hovered around 66C. It did the same @4.3 so I left it at 4.2 where it was comfortable (66C maximum). Could this be an issue with setting my V-Core setting to adaptive? Should I try setting this manually or just give up? I didn't want to play around too much because I'm not confident with this stuff but the setting did seem to be working ok (upping and lowering the voltage when under load).
But there was some success at least overclocking my 970 (via Afterburner). Core clock +150, memory clock +380. I'm happy with that, let me turn on MSAA in Rainbow Six.
Here's my full specs by the way (including all extras). I put this together back in September/October: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/c9gz23 As an aside, I really like the G502 that I accidentally left in my basket.

Did you just use passmark as a stress test? As thats not really a stress test. Try X264 bench, realbench, or Aida64 stress tests.
The issue is just not enough Vcore, just bump up your offset value to give more vcore. Just keep an eye on temps. Telling us your actual load vcore in CPUZ would help.

Nice on on the 970, but offsets mean nothing when every card has different base clocks, tell us the clocks as seen in nvidia inspector or MSI AB when in game. Im guessing thats around 1400Mhz core, and 3900Mhz mem.

 

[bomblord1]

I have this CPU cooler laying around my house would it be enough to run an i7-6700k at stock? I can always upgrade to a larger one if/when I decide to OC.

 

[soulassssns]

Is a EVGA SuperNova 750 B1 good enough to power an R9 390?

 

[bomblord1]

Is a EVGA SuperNova 750 B1 good enough to power an R9 390?

It's 750W it's more than enough for a single R9 390

 

[kuYuri]

Is a EVGA SuperNova 750 B1 good enough to power an R9 390?

Yes, more than good enough.

 

[soulassssns]

It's 750W it's more than enough for a single R9 390

Just wondering because the official recommendation says 700 or 750 and I didnt want to be right at the bare minimum.

 

[bomblord1]

Just wondering because the official recommendation says 700 or 750 and I didnt want to be right at the bare minimum.

Depending on the other components you could probably scrape by with as low as a 500W (although I wouldn't recommend it) 750W you'll be fine so no worries.

 

[Jarnet87]

Bought a Gateway FX-6831-01 back in 2010 and thinking about upgrading either to a same size machine or one of the smaller console size ones. The X51 looks like a pretty good small size machnine with a decent price point to start and I like the design. Would I see a huge jump from say the base i3 processor model, or the i5. I'd like to spend under a $1000 and if that base model at $650 is a nice sized jump I might spring for it. Game wise I don't really play the most graphically intense stuff. WoW, likely Overwatch, Dota, I really just want a nice and quiet machine that runs todays games well and will keep for at least 2-3 years.

Other alternative is just to upgrade the FX with some new parts. for reference the FX has a Intel Core i7 860 / 2.8 GHz, 8 GB DDR3 1.5 TB HDD, (the 5850 that came with it crapped out on me and the warranty replaced it)

 

[LilJoka]

Just wondering because the official recommendation says 700 or 750 and I didnt want to be right at the bare minimum.

Official recommendation takes into account those people running the worst quality PSU that barely meet their rating. Your PSU is more than enough.

 

[EroticSushi]

What's a good program for controlling all my fan speeds? Seems some of them are running louder than others lately.

 

[darthbob]

What's a good program for controlling all my fan speeds? Seems some of them are running louder than others lately.

Speedfan works.

Although you won't get any fan control through molex powered fans, just PWM.

 

[drhankmccoyphd]

My old rig shit the bed months ago and I haven't bothered to replace/test any of the parts. I was dragging my heels in order to save up some cash and do a complete rebuild. I previously ran a amd x6 1090t @ 3.7ghz, 4gb ram and a 560ti. Obviously not equipped for newer games. Now I'm in a further jam because my wife is pregnant and funds are limited so I may need to salvage what I can and will get the old girl up and running. (The PC not my wife). I just saw this deal on a amd mobo for $19 after rebate so I'm tempted to grab it and give it a whirl. From there i could grab some more ram a 970 or so. My question is do I have enough cup power for gta5 and Witcher 3 @ 1080p? I suppose I could get 980ti if I want to use my 4K tv if I can scrape together a few more bucks. What do you all think?

 

[popo]

Official recommendation takes into account those people running the worst quality PSU that barely meet their rating. Your PSU is more than enough.

Anyone who buys a non 80+ rated psu these days is a gambler. Even cheap brands can hit that mark for low money. If the psu can't even boast 80+ then ask yourself, where else have they cut corners?

 

[LilJoka]

Speedfan works.

Although you won't get any fan control through molex powered fans, just PWM.

To clarify these fans can be controlled:
A PWM fan on a PWM header
Any type of fan on a 3 pin header or 4 pin header in DC voltage control.

That can be configured using motherboard software or the BIOS.

 

[XenoRaven]

Hey guys. I'm looking to make the transition from the desk to the comfy couch. I'll definitely need a lap desk. I'd like to use my current keyboard, but I'm concerned it's too big for me be able to get a reasonable range of movement with my mouse. Are there some sizable but still comfortable lap desks? Are there smaller form factor keyboards that are still good for gaming?

 

[Orin GA]

If all you are using is Biocide and Distilled water in a semi-closed loop cooler, can you just add water when levels get low or do you have to drain it entirely?

 

[LQX]

Is there suppose to be bent metal pin in the Fractal R5 top USB 3.0 header cable? If not wow, not sure how I somehow bent and ripped a pin out. Fuck me.

Lol, I'm hoping someone will tell me this is new design but my older board has that extra pin. Shit.

 

[Lactose_Intolerant]

Is there suppose to be bent metal pin in the Fractal R5 top USB 3.0 header cable? If not wow, not sure how I somehow bent and ripped a pin out. Fuck me.

Lol, I'm hoping someone will tell me this is new design but my older board has that extra pin. Shit.

Looks like it is standard.

edit: oh wait, it does look like you pulled it out of the board.

 

[LQX]

So it is fucked beyond repair? Is it safe to keep it plugged in with the broken pin.

 

[Lactose_Intolerant]

I would just unplug it and use the usb's on the back of the case.

 

[brianmcdoogle]

I might as well ask this here:

I made a thread a few weeks ago about gaming on an external SSD via USB 3.0, and I have a few questions on Windows installation (if you want to read that short thread and chime in or make suggestions, please feel free to since I haven't yet made a final decision on my plan). The route I'm going to take is to do a new install of Windows. Problem is, my CD is for Windows 8, I've upgraded on the old drive to Windows 10, and I'm worried about potential licensing or activation issues. In short, is it possible to "deactivate" Windows on the old drive before I install it on the new drive, and then reactivate Windows using the old key? Any problems I might be expecting?

Part of me thought about just doing a clone of my drive using Carbon Copy Cloner or Winclone, but most tutorials I've seen on using an external drive for Bootcamp go with a fresh install, and I'm fine starting over and just reinstalling games (and backing up the save game data as I see fit; I have no other data on the partition since I use a Mac and only use Bootcamp for gaming).

 

[teiresias]

Is there suppose to be bent metal pin in the Fractal R5 top USB 3.0 header cable? If not wow, not sure how I somehow bent and ripped a pin out. Fuck me.

Lol, I'm hoping someone will tell me this is new design but my older board has that extra pin. Shit.

Motherboard USB3.0 connectors and headers are so ridiculous. It takes an ungodly amount of force to unseat them that I'm surprised this doesn't happen more often with people rocking them back and forth just trying to get it disconnected. I don't understand why the things have to be some freaking hard to disconnect.

 

[dity]

Hey everyone. I just bought the parts to build a new PC and was wondering if I could get some opinions on it. I'm not too familiar with the performance of newer PC stuff, so I'm excited to see what I can do with it. My last partial build was in 2011, and it was just an upgrade to a PC from around 2008/2009. It could only do new games like Fallout 4 on its lowest settings.

New build:
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H ($135.00)
CPU: Intel Core i3 6100 ($179.00)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 950 OC 2GB ($239.00)
RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury HX421C14FBK2/8 8GB (2x4GB) DDR4 Black ($79.00)
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB ST1000DM003 ($75.00)
PSU: Be Quiet! System Power 8 600W Power Supply ($79.00)
Case: Thermaltake Black Versa H24 Mid Tower Chassis ($59.00)

The build came out to AU$845.

I think the case comes with a fan. Should I buy more? I think it supports 3 more.

 

[Jimrpg]

I saw your reply earlier but I got busy at work. But I got my keys from DNK13. As far as your keys not working. I'm not sure. Make sure you're using the right creation media tool? If that doesn't work, then definitely contact the user you bought the keys from.

I've purchased 4 Windows 8.1 keys recently from Reddit Microsoft software swap, and 3 of them said "This product key doesn't work". Can't upgrade to Win 10 either. I contacted the guy today but no reply yet. Haven't tried the 4th key.

I don't mean to scare anyone off the subreddit because I've purchased two other Windows 8.1 keys and they worked fine. It's just annoying that I may or may not get a replacement key and I honestly don't know where they get their stock from. I'll update again when I hear from them. It's also a little frustrating because the computers are work PCs and I was mildly boasting that I found cheap Windows keys... Talk about egg on my face.

I got a response from GMachina, and he replaced one of my keys and that one did work. So all's good.

I have another two keys that didn't work, but maybe he hasn't seen that private msg yet.

 

[Beerman462]

Currently sporting an i5 2400. I don't want to get a new GPU yet. I know I won't get alot if anything out of upgrading my CPU atm, but I'm looking at the i5-6600K. Is this a big enough upgrade? On paper it looks great, but games seems questionable. I think being able to overclock to 4GHz plus will be huge.

 

[Skyfireblaze]

Wasn't able to do it yesterday because I didn't have anything to rub the old thermal paste off, but I had some Arcticlean delivered today so I just finished the install. It was scary as hell but... it works .

As I feared, the side fan still touched the cooler's pipes even if it was only 1mm but I was able to move the fan a little so I could keep it on. When everything was in place, my pc kept turning itself off after 5 secs, then turning on again, and off, etc. until I flipped the power switch so I was worried af that I messed it up. Fortunately it was fixed by removing two 2GB ram sticks. I think I damaged one of them during the install because it was such a tight space. Still have 2x 4GB in there, and I guess I'll just replace the two I removed with another 2x 4GB so I have 16GB total! This is never going to end, huh...

What really bugs me is the fan noise though. My pc went from dead silent to really noisy with this upgrade and I'm not sure it's supposed to be like that :/. Maybe I just have to get used to it. Temps are looking good tho, they're at 35C idle and 50C under load now. Should be safe to overclock a little!

I want to thank you again for all your help, I really appreciate it. Now I can finally use that overclocking guide you wrote

It's definitely the cpu fan. It's a four pin plugged into a PWM header. When I boot up the pc the fans don't make so much noise, but soon after (about 15 seconds) they kick into full gear and never stop, even when the temperatures don't go higher than 32C.

How does the motherboard control the fans? I assume that means they should spin faster when load increases. It seems like they're always spinning on 100% though. Any way to control this?

edit: Never mind, I figured it out. Went into motherboard bios and smart fan control was disabled. Set it to 55C and now my pc is silent again .

Whoops okay yeah, technically vodka or any high percentage alcohol would have worked too I heard but I never tried that I'm just glad that you managed, yeah it's scary each time but a great feeling once you learned, understood and got it done

And hmm yeah as said a small touch is fine aslong as no fans are blocked and no turbulance is caused so aside from that your side-fan shouldn't matter much and you got to keep the LED! Sorry to hear about your RAM though, yeah if a mainboard reboots itself over and over it usually has trouble detecting RAM :/ But aslong as you get RAM of matching speed and timings that sounds like a plan.

About the fan yeah I was about to say it must be some BIOS/EFI fan control setting but I see you got that already, silent and cool PCs are the best

Also no problem always happy to help where I can Happy overclocking, if something is up just ask, you should have quite a bit headroom for overclocking now

 

[soulassssns]

Well the decision was finally made. Since I only game at 1080P (at least for the foreseeable future) I decided to pick up a GTX 970 instead of the 390 ( which I heard does better at much higher resolutions).

So now my next project is to reuse all my left over parts to build a system for my son.

 

[RGM79]

Hey man, Thanks for the response! I would probably consider Skylake but does non-K include a stock CPU cooler? I don't really plan to OC but non-Ks Skylakes can now be OC'd, right?

The 4X4GB is actually cheaper for some reason but thanks for letting me know about the slots.

As for the WD green, that was just a typo lol. But I read somewhere that green is just a rebranded blue? So that's not true?

For the PSU, well that's the cheapest one that I could find that's at least tier 2. Do you have some recommendation?

Yes, non-K models come with a basic cooler. Only the overclockable ones don't. Yes, it is possible to overclock them (see here for more information, guides, and links to BIOS downloads), but Intel is putting a stop to it and the motherboard manufacturers are complying under pressure.

Where are you buying the parts and what's your budget? What parts are you looking at exactly? I can't compare hard drives models and prices for RAM and power supplies until you tell me. I have heard that WD has some overlap on their blue/green/"mainstream" drives, but speaking in general the WD Green drives operate at 4900~5900RPM, while the blue drives are 7200RPM.

I have this CPU cooler laying around my house would it be enough to run an i7-6700k at stock? I can always upgrade to a larger one if/when I decide to OC.

It'll fit, but that thing is tiny. It's even smaller than the stock Intel cooler. It will be able to run at idle, but I don't know about at load when gaming.

My old rig shit the bed months ago and I haven't bothered to replace/test any of the parts. I was dragging my heels in order to save up some cash and do a complete rebuild. I previously ran a amd x6 1090t @ 3.7ghz, 4gb ram and a 560ti. Obviously not equipped for newer games. Now I'm in a further jam because my wife is pregnant and funds are limited so I may need to salvage what I can and will get the old girl up and running. (The PC not my wife). I just saw this deal on a amd mobo for $19 after rebate so I'm tempted to grab it and give it a whirl. From there i could grab some more ram a 970 or so. My question is do I have enough cup power for gta5 and Witcher 3 @ 1080p? I suppose I could get 980ti if I want to use my 4K tv if I can scrape together a few more bucks. What do you all think?

You can reuse your existing processor in that motherboard and get things up and running, but you should make sure it's definitely your old motherboard that's dead and not some other part.

Hey everyone. I just bought the parts to build a new PC and was wondering if I could get some opinions on it. I'm not too familiar with the performance of newer PC stuff, so I'm excited to see what I can do with it. My last partial build was in 2011, and it was just an upgrade to a PC from around 2008/2009. It could only do new games like Fallout 4 on its lowest settings.

New build:
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H ($135.00)
CPU: Intel Core i3 6100 ($179.00)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 950 OC 2GB ($239.00)
RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury HX421C14FBK2/8 8GB (2x4GB) DDR4 Black ($79.00)
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB ST1000DM003 ($75.00)
PSU: Be Quiet! System Power 8 600W Power Supply ($79.00)
Case: Thermaltake Black Versa H24 Mid Tower Chassis ($59.00)

The build came out to AU$845.

I think the case comes with a fan. Should I buy more? I think it supports 3 more.

See how hot your PC runs first. If it's too warm inside the case, then get more fans. No point in getting more if you don't need them, and it's extremely easy to add extra fans in after putting the PC together.

Currently sporting an i5 2400. I don't want to get a new GPU yet. I know I won't get alot if anything out of upgrading my CPU atm, but I'm looking at the i5-6600K. Is this a big enough upgrade? On paper it looks great, but games seems questionable. I think being able to overclock to 4GHz plus will be huge.

Unfortunately your motherboard is several generations out of date, the CPU socket is of a different design. You won't be able to upgrade to the new i5 6600K without also buying a new motherboard and RAM. If you still want to upgrade but spend less, then look at getting the i5 4690K, which will still require a new motherboard but you can use your existing DDR3 RAM with it.

 

[thefil]

Looking for a monitor recommendation. Giving my 24" monitor to my gf so she can have two, and I want to buy one BIG monitor to replace it. To make it worthwhile I'm thinking 28" +, but would be willing to hear someone talk me down. 1440p sounds like more than enough, I'm worried about my GPU handling that as it is. And I don't care about more than 60 hz, but I guess G-Sync might be nice if it's not too pricey?

 

[EdLin]

Looking for a monitor recommendation. Giving my 24" monitor to my gf so she can have two, and I want to buy one BIG monitor to replace it. To make it worthwhile I'm thinking 28" +, but would be willing to hear someone talk me down. 1440p sounds like more than enough, I'm worried about my GPU handling that as it is. And I don't care about more than 60 hz, but I guess G-Sync might be nice if it's not too pricey?

I love my LG 29" ultrawide monitor, mine is Freesync compatible though, but they make no-freesync versions..., maybe they make even a G-Sync one though G-Sync is an expensive technology. Nvidia charges monitor makers $300 to implement it I think and OEMs naturally have to pass that on to consumers.

This is what I have: LG 29um67

 

[diablos991]

I love my LG 29" ultrawide monitor, mine is Freesync compatible though, but they make no-freesync versions..., maybe they make even a G-Sync one though G-Sync is an expensive technology. Nvidia charges monitor makers $300 to implement it I think and OEMs naturally have to pass that on to consumers.

This is what I have: LG 29um67

If Nvidia charges $300 to a manufacturer to implement G-Sync why would entry level G-sync monitors sell for $350?

I think the $300 figure is a bit high.

 

[dity]

See how hot your PC runs first. If it's too warm inside the case, then get more fans. No point in getting more if you don't need them, and it's extremely easy to add extra fans in after putting the PC together.

I forgot to mention that I'm dealing with Australia's sweltering Summer heat. If temps are too hot I'll have a go at adding extra, like you've said. Apparently my case does "tool-free fan mounting" too. Should make things even easier?

 

[RayStorm]

On mobile, but make sure your PSU is 140mm in length instead of 160mm. 160mm will block proper length video cards..

(Modular) 160mm long PSUs and long graphic cards do fit inside the rather similar Core 500 so I would assume, it won't be a problem in the Node 304 either. Granted it is tight, but it works without much of a problem.

Just about to bite the bullet on this build in the next day or so, just before I drop the cash just want to post here again and double check that there's no glaring problems with the components I've chosen. My biggest question is, the power supply. Is 750w enough for this build? I am planning to overclock the cpu so there's that to factor in. Any input will be appreciated.

Why did you choose 2 1TB HDDs instead of one 2 TB HDD?

 

[V1LÆM]

Is a EVGA SuperNova 750 B1 good enough to power an R9 390?

yep. i have the G2 model for my 290. my system is only rated at ~450W underload. i have my 290 overclocked so that will use a bit more. even then i still have a good 250W overhead. i just didn't want to risk anything so i got a more powerful/higher quality PSU. this one is rock solid and i might even re use it in my next build. i plan on getting an i7-****K and at least a GTX 1080 when it's out. Might even hold off for the 1080 Ti.

 

[Theonik]

Well the SSD in my desktop is a SATA one and it's noticeably much faster than its HDDs. So you're saying I would still get a big-ish improvement as long as I bought an mSATA M.2, or at least over 5400rpm?

EDIT: oh right, there's no such thing because they're separate things. I still can't find a good answer on if my laptop actually supports something like that. I'm definitely wanting something in the M.2 form factor at least so I can keep a hard drive in it.

mSATA is basically a SATA interface in M.2 formfactor. But you need to make sure you buy a SATA based M.2 SSD. Some recent M.2 SSDs are based on PCI-E and are not interchangeable.

As for performance most SSDs will be significantly faster than a 5400rpm HDD in most cases.

 

[RGM79]

I forgot to mention that I'm dealing with Australia's sweltering Summer heat. If temps are too hot I'll have a go at adding extra, like you've said. Apparently my case does "tool-free fan mounting" too. Should make things even easier?

Well, good luck with the heat. That Thermaltake case's product page mentions tool-less fan installation on the mesh dust filter bracket that I believe goes at the front of the case. Looking at this quick review, the rest of the fan mounts will need to have fans secured with screws like usual.

(Modular) 160mm long PSUs and long graphic cards do fit inside the rather similar Core 500 so I would assume, it won't be a problem in the Node 304 either. Granted it is tight, but it works without much of a problem.

The Core 500 is specifically said to take PSUs "up to 170mm in length (non modular PSUs); ATX PSUs, up to 160mm in length (modular PSUs)". The Node 304 on the other hand has smaller restrictions on the PSU as it only takes "ATX PSUs, up to 160mm in length (To fit in combination with a long graphics card, PSUs with modular connectors on the back typically need to be shorter than 160 mm)".

 

[LilJoka]

Node 304 needs 140mm PSU if it's modular, 160mm non modular.
Unscrew and remove the PSU bracket and you can fit 160mm modular PSUs.

 

[dity]

Well, good luck with the heat. That Thermaltake case's product page mentions tool-less fan installation on the mesh dust filter bracket that I believe goes at the front of the case. Looking at this quick review, the rest of the fan mounts will need to have fans secured with screws like usual.

Well I'll try my best regardless!

Is there a trustworthy program you'd recommend for looking at component temperatures?

 

[LilJoka]

Well I'll try my best regardless!

Is there a trustworthy program you'd recommend for looking at component temperatures?

HWmonitor

 

[RayStorm]

The Core 500 is specifically said to take PSUs "up to 170mm in length (non modular PSUs); ATX PSUs, up to 160mm in length (modular PSUs)". The Node 304 on the other hand has smaller restrictions on the PSU as it only takes "ATX PSUs, up to 160mm in length (To fit in combination with a long graphics card, PSUs with modular connectors on the back typically need to be shorter than 160 mm)".

Node 304 needs 140mm PSU if it's modular, 160mm non modular.
Unscrew and remove the PSU bracket and you can fit 160mm modular PSUs.

Who am I to dispute the manufacturer, but I will do so anyway: Since both cases are identical in width at 250mm each and going from pictures appear to have an identical chassis and identical PSU positioning/expansion slot brackets it leads me to believe that despite what Fractal says on their respective product pages it should be the same chassis and hence fit the same length PSU.

Now obviously going from pictures (and by that I mean product photos and not technical drawings) is a very dangerous approach, but still, taking economical aspects into account it makes little sense for them to manufacture two almost identical cases that differ in all aspects (and by that I mean the basic frame).

So in conclusion... I have reason to believe that Fractal for whatever reason has more conservatives suggestions for the Node 304 than for the Core 500.

 

[Bradf50]

(Modular) 160mm long PSUs and long graphic cards do fit inside the rather similar Core 500 so I would assume, it won't be a problem in the Node 304 either. Granted it is tight, but it works without much of a problem.



Why did you choose 2 1TB HDDs instead of one 2 TB HDD?

That was a mistake, meant to only have 1 in there. Well spotted! Thanks.

 

[mrklaw]

Node 304 needs 140mm PSU if it's modular, 160mm non modular.
Unscrew and remove the PSU bracket and you can fit 160mm modular PSUs.

wish someone would make external PSU bricks.

 

[Frankfurter]

Just about to bite the bullet on this build in the next day or so, just before I drop the cash just want to post here again and double check that there's no glaring problems with the components I've chosen. My biggest question is, the power supply. Is 750w enough for this build? I am planning to overclock the cpu so there's that to factor in. Any input will be appreciated.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor (£324.99 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£99.98 @ Novatech)
Motherboard: MSI X99A SLI PLUS ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard (£174.98 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory (£159.26 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£129.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (£553.60 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid Tower Case (£149.59 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£90.11 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1762.48

Unless you plan to go for SLI in the future, the PSU is pretty overpowered actually. ~550W would be fine and would help you with efficiency (i.e. the power draw will be lower).

 

[LilJoka]

Who am I to dispute the manufacturer, but I will do so anyway: Since both cases are identical in width at 250mm each and going from pictures appear to have an identical chassis and identical PSU positioning/expansion slot brackets it leads me to believe that despite what Fractal says on their respective product pages it should be the same chassis and hence fit the same length PSU.

Now obviously going from pictures (and by that I mean product photos and not technical drawings) is a very dangerous approach, but still, taking economical aspects into account it makes little sense for them to manufacture two almost identical cases that differ in all aspects (and by that I mean the basic frame).

So in conclusion... I have reason to believe that Fractal for whatever reason has more conservatives suggestions for the Node 304 than for the Core 500.

Well you can take my response with confidence since i have the case, i have a Corsair RMx650 in there with the PSU bracket removed and an MSI GAMER GTX 970 fitted.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=193042431&postcount=11659

Reason why its recommended for a smaller PSU in the Node 304, is that the connectors will foul the long GPU. If your running no GPU or an ITX GPU (short GPU) then even 180mm PSU would fit.
The Core 500 is traditional design so there is no reason for needing smaller PSUs.

 

[Bradf50]

Unless you plan to go for SLI in the future, the PSU is pretty overpowered actually. ~550W would be fine and would help you with efficiency (i.e. the power draw will be lower).

Still not sure if I'm going to do SLI in the future, so thought a 750W would cover my needs down the line for future additions to my build. Thanks for the recommendation btw!

 

[RayStorm]

Well you can take my response with confidence since i have the case, i have a Corsair RMx650 in there with the PSU bracket removed and an MSI GAMER GTX 970 fitted.

Reason why its recommended for a smaller PSU in the Node 304, is that the connectors will foul the long GPU. If your running no GPU or an ITX GPU (short GPU) then even 180mm PSU would fit.
The Core 500 is traditional design so there is no reason for needing smaller PSUs.

Oh I will take it as such, but I would love to understand as well. The pictures from both cases in the PSU-area look identical, I wonder whether the pictures are just deceiving or there's something else going on, that differs. I mean, I'm not going to say that a 16cm modular PSU in a Core 500 with a long graphics card is a spacious fit, but it does fit without anything being bent out of shape. And as initially said, it looks to me like the Node 304 has the same layout and PSU/mainboard position, so I would love to know, just to satisfy my curiosity, where my deduction skills failed me.

Also as you may have guessed, I don't fully grasp why you said the Core 500 is a traditional design whereas the Node wasn't as to me they both seem identical.

Edit 1: That being said I will now look at your pictures and compare to mine.

Edit 2: And now that I have... did Fractal move the bracket further to the center in the Node than in the Core? But... why would they do that? I... this defies logic for me.

 

[dity]

HWmonitor

Thank you!

 

[knitoe]

Thank you!

HWinfo is better. Link in the OP or google.

 

[dity]

What it comes to copying my Steam games to a new computer, just copying everything in the Steamapps/common/ folder should suffice right? Along with save files from my Documents folder right?

HWinfo is better. Link in the OP or google.

What's the difference?