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[Mystic654]

Case Fans - Are These Fans Good to Go With?

Case: Phanteks Primo
2x - Thermaltake Riing 14 Blue (For Radiator) - 140mm -> Don't think Push/pull is worth doing why only two fans.
2x - Thermaltake Luna 14 Slim Blue (For Intake) - 140mm
2x - BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 140mm PWM (Exhaust)
6x - BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 120mm PWM (Bottom & Harddrive Cage)


I'm looking for silentish - All fans will be running at 1000RPM or below via Software or Hardware Controller.

Any Other suggestions with my Fans?

 

[Rizific]

hey guys, im looking for a gaming build for a buddy. budget is $600 for the tower only BUT he already has a mobo (socket 1155). any and all help is appreciated, thank you!

 

[Crisium]

Hey guys, I've been looking into a new pc recently and was wondering how this is for 1080p maxed/high settings 60fps gaming.

Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card
Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

The main problem for me is the fact that this would cost £857.86.

I don't really know much about this stuff and just put this build together on pcpartpicker; so are there any parts I could change to lower the price but keep a similar performance?

You could go Radeon 290 instead of 390. The only real differences are that the 390 has more memory and higher clocked memory. A quality 290 can achieve similar core clocks to the 390, and the memory speed deficit should mean just a few percentage points of speed at that point.

The cheapest 290 over 390 saves you about £24. That's not a horrible premium for the extra memory capacity and speed on the 390 though.

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/parts/video-card/#c=152,311&sort=a8&page=1

Cheaper DDR3 RAM maybe? It'll help if you post your prices.

 

[ILoveBish]

If you want to retry, go ahead. I have also read that a line is preferable due to the shape of the die underneath the cover, but I don't think there's any testing data on that.. yet. There's not a large difference between different thermal pastes unless you're willing to spend a lot on high end thermal paste, so just use the newer paste that came with the 212 Evo.

Thank you sir. I'm going to wait for a buddy to swing by and have him help me by holding the fan in place while i screw it down after a proper line. Looking forward to comparing before/after results.

 

[ZiZ]

So I need a new computer and it seems that now's a good time to get one with skylake and new motherboards out, this will be mostly for gaming and needs to be ready for VR.

CPU: i7 6700K
motherboard: ASUS Z170-A (DDR4)
RAM : ---------- (8x2 16 GB DDR4)
GFX: GTX 980Ti
SSD: Samsung 500GB
HD: ---------- (2TB)
Power supply: Cooler Master V750
case : ---------- (I got nothing in mind really)
heatsink: CM Hyper 212 EVO
screen: Asus VG248QE doesn't support G-Sync so I guess I need to look for another monitor too.

any suggestions on what RAM or HDD to get?
Also any suggestions or advice on the build are appreciated.

 

[Hopeford]

I was looking for a new monitor for college, and this seemed like a good pick based on price but I admit I'm completely ignorant on brand reputation and all that. Is that a good pick? I read the OP suggestions about good monitor options but most of them seem too small/too expensive in Canada for me so I was hoping that one would be a good pick, but yeah I don't really know what I'm doing with monitors so I'd appreciate an opinion about that.

Not a competitive gamer by any means, mostly play single player or local multiplayer stuff.

 

[TheMink]

.

 

[Got the Shakes]

Not really PC related but I need a decent NAS system. Having all my media on my PC sucks when I want to watch whole series or play music on my other devices. Transferring everything to SD cards/external drives is inconvenient.

Can someone recommend a decent setup for under £400, with at least DNLA?

Might want to try here:

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=392090

 

[An1malhouse365]

Looks alright to me. If you want to save $20 you can go with G.Skill Ripjaws 4 3000MHz RAM for $135. But then again, after looking at your build, you probably don't mind spending a bit.

Are you thinking of doing some multi-monitor gaming across all three screens? You may want to consider SLI in the future.. and that means you would be looking for a power supply in excess of 800 watts. XFX, Seasonic, Super Flower, EVGA, and certain higher end models from other brands (Antec, Cooler Master, Corsair, etc) come to mind first when thinking of power supplies. This should be a good list for you to look at, it's all pretty much excellent. Even the cheapest model on that list I would happily recommend.

Optical drive.. if it's just a DVD drive, then just about any DVD drive will do (as long as it doesn't have awful reviews), there's nothing really special to consider. If you're getting a blu-ray drive, then take care to read the reviews and see if the drive comes with any software or not. There are some blu-ray drives that don't come with any blu ray movie disc playback software (sometimes marked as 'OEM') and that is an extra annoying step that also costs money to fix.

OS? That's up to you. Windows 7 is getting a bit old, though. Nothing really wrong with it, but as time goes on, support will start to thin out for Windows 7. Z170 motherboards already make you jump through a few hoops to allow Windows 7 installation, DX12 might not be supported under Windows 7, and Microsoft definitely wants everyone to move to Windows 10.

Yeah I wanted to invest in a good gaming PC that'll last me while. And I def don't saving where I can but the blk/wht color scheme would stop me from getting the ripjaws.

Yes I'm doing a triple monitor setup. All set up to a racing simulator. Which I've just turned into my overall gaming rig.
As far as the PSU is concerned, I was looking at 1000w just to be safe as I do plan to sli sometime down the road. Rather be over than under. But what is the difference between the modular types? And the bronze, silver, gold, plat, titanium?

 

[hockeypuck]

If I download Windows 8.1 from this Microsoft website, do I still need the Rufus ISO utility? Google and the OP do not give a clear answer. That Microsoft page seems to be a one-stop shop and the only thing I literally need to do to create a bootable ISO is plug an 8 GB USB and click the "Create Media" button.

 

[Evo X]

That Microsoft page seems to be a one-stop shop and the only thing I literally need to do to create a bootable ISO is plug an 8 GB USB and click the "Create Media" button.

That is correct.

 

[tallbroski]

Oh, I hope nothing has been damaged on your end. What PSU have you bought ?

Thanks

So I tried many times yesterday and the Psu did not work,woke up today went to buy a new psu. Came back home and before I open the box I say to myself "let me try one more time" and the old PSU WORKS!

So now i will return the new one and good thing i did not open the box. Oh the new psu was Corsair CX500M, my old psu aka the trolling one is Corsair GS 600.

 

[hockeypuck]

That is correct.

Cool, thanks.

 

[Jag]

Case Fans - Are These Fans Good to Go With?

Case: Phanteks Primo
2x - Thermaltake Riing 14 Blue (For Radiator) - 140mm -> Don't think Push/pull is worth doing why only two fans.
2x - Thermaltake Luna 14 Slim Blue (For Intake) - 140mm
2x - BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 140mm PWM (Exhaust)
6x - BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 120mm PWM (Bottom & Harddrive Cage)


I'm looking for silentish - All fans will be running at 1000RPM or below via Software or Hardware Controller.

Any Other suggestions with my Fans?

Do you always need extra fans? I'm looking at the Phanteks Enthoo and was planning on staying with the stock case fans.

 

[Vigilant Walrus]

I loved U... Since the first time I laid my eyes on you. I loved your curves. The sharpness of your contours. Your contrast was profound. Thanks for 5 amazing years u2711

The irony is that I begin my undergrad graphic design studies in a week, and I've had this 95% Adobe RGB calibrated monitor for more than half a decade. I've had 1440p way before it went mainstream, and fuck it was a privelige.

People often say that it is not worth it to be on forefront of technology- Oh I beg to differ in this case. This monitor was the best I've ever had. The 10 ms, was not really a problem at all in the gaming I did.


I'm now sitting a meter from my LG 60 Plasma, and it's weird. Besides going down to 1080p starring at such a massive screen right in my face is bizarre. The worst part? goddamn image retention. it sucks. 2 minutes of staying on a screen and I see lingering ghost images. ugh.


Do I want a new monitor? yes. But right now so many amazing things are happening- And I have to go back and credit Apple for all of this. They ignited the resolution battle with the Retina Macbook Pro. It made high resolution screens a big deal, and now we are looking at 700-900 dollars 34' inch ultrawide cinemafuckingscope monitors from companies like Acer! ACER! With good colors, black levels and gamut? wut?

And while they are highly priced now, a year for now we will see more with free-sync/g-sync, and >60 hertz refresh rate! 34-ultrawide is amazing. That is literally the max you can have at your desk to take your entire field of vision without having to physically move your head to see the corners. with a 34-incher you can sense what is going on at the edges of your screen.
We just need a bit lower prices, and the sync tech to be standard and it is great!


In the mean time, blackbleed, dead pixels (not as big an issue these days I imagine?) and ghosting remains problems. buying a monitor is still a lottery.

Researching the death of my u2711 I was surprised to discover (it started to show red lines and pixels across the right side of the monitor- thought it was the cable or graphics card) that many people had their u2711's break not long after their 2 year warranty was up.
It makes me think about what a lottery tech is. if you're unlucky with the thing you bought, it can really suck. I got so much good milage out of my monitor I just had to tell someone!

 

[Kudo]

I loved U... Since the first time I laid my eyes on you. I loved your curves. The sharpness of your contours. Your contrast was profound. Thanks for 5 amazing years u2711

The irony is that I begin my undergrad graphic design studies in a week, and I've had this 95% Adobe RGB calibrated monitor for more than half a decade. I've had 1440p way before it went mainstream, and fuck it was a privelige.

People often say that it is not worth it to be on forefront of technology- Oh I beg to differ in this case. This monitor was the best I've ever had. The 10 ms, was not really a problem at all in the gaming I did.


I'm now sitting a meter from my LG 60 Plasma, and it's weird. Besides going down to 1080p starring at such a massive screen right in my face is bizarre. The worst part? goddamn image retention. it sucks. 2 minutes of staying on a screen and I see lingering ghost images. ugh.


Do I want a new monitor? yes. But right now so many amazing things are happening- And I have to go back and credit Apple for all of this. They ignited the resolution battle with the Retina Macbook Pro. It made high resolution screens a big deal, and now we are looking at 700-900 dollars 34' inch ultrawide cinemafuckingscope monitors from companies like Acer! ACER! With good colors, black levels and gamut? wut?

And while they are highly priced now, a year for now we will see more with free-sync/g-sync, and >60 hertz refresh rate! 34-ultrawide is amazing. That is literally the max you can have at your desk to take your entire field of vision without having to physically move your head to see the corners. with a 34-incher you can sense what is going on at the edges of your screen.
We just need a bit lower prices, and the sync tech to be standard and it is great!


In the mean time, blackbleed, dead pixels (not as big an issue these days I imagine?) and ghosting remains problems. buying a monitor is still a lottery.

Researching the death of my u2711 I was surprised to discover (it started to show red lines and pixels across the right side of the monitor- thought it was the cable or graphics card) that many people had their u2711's break not long after their 2 year warranty was up.
It makes me think about what a lottery tech is. if you're unlucky with the thing you bought, it can really suck. I got so much good milage out of my monitor I just had to tell someone!

Feel you. My Samsung S27A850T started breaking by having image retention, so I bought Dell U2715H, one dead pixel in this and they don't want to take it for warranty even though it's in middle.
Thinking of returning it as 2015 and dead pixels shouldn't really be allowed, the panel itself otherwise is great, not much backlight bleed etc. so it's a very hard decision to make, hardly can see the dead pixel 99% of the time.
Sharing your sentiments that it's really a shame how displays still are a big lottery.

 

[Vigilant Walrus]

Feel you. My Samsung S27A850T started breaking by having image retention, so I bought Dell U2715H, one dead pixel in this and they don't want to take it for warranty even though it's in middle.
Thinking of returning it as 2015 and dead pixels shouldn't really be allowed, the panel itself otherwise is great, not much backlight bleed etc. so it's a very hard decision to make, hardly can see the dead pixel 99% of the time.
Sharing your sentiments that it's really a shame how displays still are a big lottery.

Damn. Sorry to hear that.

My retina Macbook Pro 15- a 3000 dollars notebook has a glass screen that is incredible fragile. so right in the middle there is a tiny crack in the glass. it would cost a 1000 USD to change it, because the way the macs are created the entire back end of the panel (solid slab of aluminium would need to be replaced as well) - It fucking sucks, because its so small, but like you said- its right there in the middle of the screen just going "fuck you".

And the worst part of it, is that your so careful with your electronics. In fact- my macbook is so out of price ranged, I don't take it out much. I have no warrenty or insurance on it, and so the fucking thing has become a liability and thats not really what a portable road warrior is supposed to be! arhgh! It was most likely caused by a small grain or something on one of the keys, that then fractured the glass when closing it. there is so little space between the screen and the keys (you can actually see the "prints" on the screen when opening the laptop. The thinness extravaganza has its costs. Still its an amazing machine, just too bad these screens dont have gorilla like glass like smartphones!



About the dead pixel- I forgot who it was, but I saw someone posting about a dead pixel guarantee that says, you can get a new screen/tv if there is more than 10 dead pixels, and this guy had 9 dead pixels! That just fucking sucks so bad!

I mean- I don't know how much money they lose to go for higher perfect yields, no compromises, but damn does it suck.

 

[Kudo]

Damn. Sorry to hear that.

My retina Macbook Pro 15- a 3000 dollars notebook has a glass screen that is incredible fragile. so right in the middle there is a tiny crack in the glass. it would cost a 1000 USD to change it, because the way the macs are created the entire back end of the panel (solid slab of aluminium would need to be replaced as well) - It fucking sucks, because its so small, but like you said- its right there in the middle of the screen just going "fuck you".

And the worst part of it, is that your so careful with your electronics. In fact- my macbook is so out of price ranged, I don't take it out much. I have no warrenty or insurance on it, and so the fucking thing has become a liability and thats not really what a portable road warrior is supposed to be! arhgh! It was most likely caused by a small grain or something on one of the keys, that then fractured the glass when closing it. there is so little space between the screen and the keys (you can actually see the "prints" on the screen when opening the laptop. The thinness extravaganza has its costs. Still its an amazing machine, just too bad these screens dont have gorilla like glass like smartphones!



About the dead pixel- I forgot who it was, but I saw someone posting about a dead pixel guarantee that says, you can get a new screen/tv if there is more than 10 dead pixels, and this guy had 9 dead pixels! That just fucking sucks so bad!

I mean- I don't know how much money they lose to go for higher perfect yields, no compromises, but damn does it suck.

Don't know what kind of glass the old Apple products use but my iPhone (first gen or 2nd?) probably hit a coin or something in my pocket years ago and the glass on it started chipping off the top, really awful that something like that can happen.

And yeah, it's a shame dead pixel policies are really strict, Dell does have great guarantee for zero bright pixels but have to have at least 3 dead for exchange. Maybe they should have zero dead pixels in middle of the screen policy too as that's where your vision usually is, but oh well.

 

[hockeypuck]

So the Create Installation Media tool for the Windows 8.1 ISO only works on PC, not Mac OS X. How do I create a Windows installation USB using OS X? Some websites have said that the Boot Camp Assistant can make a USB that will work with PC, but I can't find the 8.1 ISO. Microsoft's website wants me to download a program first that doesn't even work on OS X. Any help?

Edit: after digging more into this, I have to basically torrent the ISO. No official sources for Mac, SMH. I'm just going to buy an external DVD drive.

 

[Spikematic]

If you're going to replace the graphics card every two years, then we'd recommend something like a GTX 970 instead of the GTX 980 Ti, but you've already purchased it and don't seem to mind the extra cost, oh well. Yes, you can definitely keep the Air 240 case on your list, it's definitely usable. Also yes, the Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti G1 Gaming should fit in there, even with a 240mm radiator in the front. Looks like Corsair just decided to play it safe with GPU length recommendations.

The H100i should do just fine. The newer H100i GTX is available for just a few dollars more, though. I'll put it on a potential parts list for you below.

Well, normally we don't recommend motherboards costing as much as the Asus Maximus VIII Gene, because it's quite expensive and often more than not most people will be just fine with a motherboard in the $100~150 range, even considering gaming and overclocking. It's just that there's a lack of information on Z170 motherboards in general, and it's somewhat uncomfortable to recommend motherboards solely on specs and without any kind of actual reviews. I don't think there are that many bad motherboards and it's unlikely that you'll run into any issues.. but still not something we tend to do. For example, these Biostar Z170 motherboards are poorly designed in terms of PCI-E system layout and connectivity. While not a huge issue, it would present an unexpected bottleneck for those who didn't know and were going to use multiple GPUs. I guess for now I'll put the Maximus VIII Gene on the list unless you decide otherwise.

Anyway, how about a parts list like this? I kept the parts selection to all Newegg or Amazon. Prices aren't too bad, except for maybe the power supply.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($230.00 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($88.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($85.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $829.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-22 14:33 EDT-0400

Also, you didn't mention anything about storage.. are you reusing your existing drives?

Thanks so much for your detailed reply.

I was actually considering this PSU for my setup:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...m_re=evga_supernova_g2-_-17-438-017-_-Product

Is there not a big enough difference between the bronze and the gold PSUs to consider spending extra bucks?

As for the ram, I was considering this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

If, of course, I won't see any performance buffs, I'll just stick to the cheaper corsair ram you suggested.

About the GPU, I'm actually going to buy one of the new fancy gsync monitors that are due in the following weeks (probably the ASUS IPS) so I wanted a card that can run as many games as possible on max graphics at 1440p and high refresh rates. That's why I opted for the TI.

About the storage, I'll be reusing my Samsung 840 evo 250 GB for Windows and my Samsung 2 TB for storage. I do want additional storage though and here are the drives I had in mind:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBRE5UE/?tag=neogaf0e-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OP2PKHW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Thanks again for the help!

 

[AppleMIX]

I decided to hold off on upgrading because my monitor crapped out.

i5 3570
GTX 970
16 gigs of ram

Any suggestions for a monitor? I'm OK with throwing down 400ish dollars if necessary.

 

[Siphorus]

So I'm in a bit of a pickle and need suggestions. I have an old Korean IPS monitor with only a single DVI-Dual Link cable and I just ordered a GTX 970 SSC which sadly only has an HDMI, a DVI-I and a few display port adapters.

Can anyone point me to an HDMI -> DVI-D cable/adapter that supports 2560x1440p@60fps or higher?

I've found a few, however I prefer the cable option, if possible (since its cheaper.)
Thanks.

 

[Evo X]

I decided to hold off on upgrading because my monitor crapped out.

i5 3570
GTX 970
16 gigs of ram

Any suggestions? I'm OK with throwing down 400ish dollars if necessary.

Sell the 970 and pick up a 980Ti. It will let you play all current games at Ultra and will be easy to move over to your next build.

 

[struggler_guts]

Going to make the "excellent" build for Christmas! Hope I don't fuck anything up putting it together!

 

[Jzero]

I'm already regretting switching to AMD.

 

[Kayant]

Do you always need extra fans? I'm looking at the Phanteks Enthoo and was planning on staying with the stock case fans.

Nope - http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1

And as someone with 6 fans on my arc mini r2 it doesn't reduce temps but a significant amount. I would say the direction of the airflow is more important.

 

[drotahorror]

Nevermind. Somethin felt right and I just went with it.

 

[Nostremitus]

I'm already regretting switching to AMD.

Bad luck, can you RMA?

 

[sleepydeer]

So, I bought an MSI GF960 in February from dabs.com and it's now failed. The Dabs site says contact the manufacturer and MSI says contact the retailer - which one should I start with?

 

[LilJoka]

So, I bought an MSI GF960 in February from dabs.com and it's now failed. The Dabs site says contact the manufacturer and MSI says contact the retailer - which one should I start with?

It'll be MSI after 30 days of purchasing.

 

[Yoshichan]

Okay sorry about not responding earlier! I've been quite busy... but here we go! I want to add an SSD to my friends computer. Here's his PSU:

Here's the SSD (along with all the things that he got) that he bought:

I originally thought that he needed to buy a new PSU with wires that can go into this:

But people told me it's not necessary or something? Please halp me! This guy has helped me through a lot of things and I want to give back... but my incompetency when it comes to SSD is surreal.

 

[sleepydeer]

It'll be MSI after 30 days of purchasing.

Cheers, opened a ticket.

On the plus side, it turns out you can play 60FPS Rocket League on Intel HD graphics 2000! It just looks like this (view fullscreen for full effect):

Please be quick MSI...

 

[knitoe]

Okay sorry about not responding earlier! I've been quite busy... but here we go! I want to add an SSD to my friends computer. Here's his PSU:



Here's the SSD (along with all the things that he got) that he bought:



I originally thought that he needed to buy a new PSU with wires that can go into this:



But people told me it's not necessary or something? Please halp me! This guy has helped me through a lot of things and I want to give back... but my incompetency when it comes to SSD is surreal.

You need a Molex to Sata power cable converter.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YJMB5Y/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Does the MB have Sata connectors?

 

[kiyomi]

Hey guys, having a little problem. I built my PC last year ~13 months ago, and everything's been great until about 3 weeks ago, I'd say?

I noticed massive 2-3 seconds hitches while playing Dota 2 and I thought it was just the game being wonky/Valve's servers/whatever. However I've started to notice it in other games, as well. It seems like there's still sound, but nothing onscreen moves for a couple of seconds and then resumes as normal. It's not constant, but it does seem to happen once every few hours - I particularly notice it in Dota because I play so often.

Any ideas what could be causing this? My first thought was some program in the background, but I've been very careful as to what's installed and what's running - and from what I can tell, there's nothing that should cause such spikes. Is that still the most likely cause? Or could it be a HDD/GPU problem?

.

 

[Hazaro]

.

Back off any overclocks if you have them
DDU + install newest GPU drivers
Run HDD diagnostic from your vendor/brand
Run memtest 86+
Unplug any extra USB connections you have while gaming

My guess is GPU drivers crashing/reloading? I had bad hitches in dota (1-2s) and I think it was a driver thing.

 

[Skii]

I do now have quite a big problem on my hands, I'm getting severe DPC latency when I game. TW3's sound is a stuttering mess when using headphones/ external speakers but for some reason fine when using monitor speakers. Is this a common problem with an obvious fix?

The sound is pretty much fine when watching youtube videos but when doing something really intensive like gaming, my DPC latency spikes like something crazy.

Your motherboard doesn't have bluetooth. You'll need to buy a bluetooth USB adaptor or add-in card to get bluetooth connectivity.

Thought as much, thanks for checking.

 

[mrchampipi]

Hey.
Looking to upgrade my brother's crappy graphic card and need some advices.
His specs:
CPU: Intel Core i5 4460 with Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H (micro atx)
RAM: G.Skill Kit Extreme3 2 x 4 Go Sniper 1600 MHz CAS 9
GC: Club 3D Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition - 1 Go
PSU: Corsair CX430M Bronze Modular - 430W
HD: SSD: Samsung 830- 128 Go + HDD 1 TB
Case: BitFenix Prodigy M

So, here's the deal. I presented him this PC that I build with spare parts, and I don't want to have to change anything in there outside of the GPU.
As you can see, PSU is rather limited, and the case is small. I was thinking about a mini GTX 960: what do you think? Anything better with the power limitations of this build?
Budget is 200-ish.

 

[yatesl]

Has anyone had an issue with Windows 10 apps not unlocking achievements? Coming from the preview program, I have had a few unlock, but after a certain date nothing else has.

I've tried using Powershell to reset Xbox app, uninstalled Solitaire etc but still nothing

 

[Kudo]

Okay sorry about not responding earlier! I've been quite busy... but here we go! I want to add an SSD to my friends computer. Here's his PSU:

Here's the SSD (along with all the things that he got) that he bought:

I originally thought that he needed to buy a new PSU with wires that can go into this:

But people told me it's not necessary or something? Please halp me! This guy has helped me through a lot of things and I want to give back... but my incompetency when it comes to SSD is surreal.

You need a Molex to Sata power cable converter.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YJMB5Y/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Does the MB have Sata connectors?

I'd advice to stay clear of those.
Google "molex sata fire", check out the pictures and you will never recommend these products again. Even happened to my friend with Deltaco brand I think, wouldn't trust unbranded.
Of course, they do "work" but I wouldn't recommend fire hazard to anyone, and even the working isn't that stable, sometimes BIOS doesn't recognize devices powered by MOLEX-SATA.

Seeing as the DVD-Drive in second picture is powered by normal SATA cables I'd say for his friend to unplug that and use the cables for SSD if he doesn't use the drive.
Also good chances that there is one more SATA Power cable in the case somewhere free that you could use.

 

[OFFIS]

But people told me it's not necessary or something? Please halp me! This guy has helped me through a lot of things and I want to give back... but my incompetency when it comes to SSD is surreal.

You could use the dvd drive's cables if your friend doesn't use it. Check the motherboard if there is a free sata slot(you need it! or swap the dvd drive with ssd) and the cable mess if there are any extra sata-power cables, if there isn't any get a sata splitter or molex-sata adapter.

 

[Grassy]

Case Fans - Are These Fans Good to Go With?

Case: Phanteks Primo
2x - Thermaltake Riing 14 Blue (For Radiator) - 140mm -> Don't think Push/pull is worth doing why only two fans.
2x - Thermaltake Luna 14 Slim Blue (For Intake) - 140mm
2x - BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 140mm PWM (Exhaust)
6x - BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 120mm PWM (Bottom & Harddrive Cage)


I'm looking for silentish - All fans will be running at 1000RPM or below via Software or Hardware Controller.

Any Other suggestions with my Fans?

I've had my Enthoo Primo for the last week or so, and the included case fans are pretty damn good. I can hardly hear it from roughly a foot away while browsing the internet and doing other minimal tasks.
A few times I've freaked out and had to visually check because I thought the case fans weren't running. I've got an Asus motherboard and it has a fan optimisation feature, and on the "Silent" setting the fans run at about ~760rpm.
P.S Connect the PWM hub to one of the chassis fan headers, NOT the CPU fan header as the booklet suggests.

 

[LilJoka]

I'd advice to stay clear of those.
Google "molex sata fire", check out the pictures and you will never recommend these products again. Even happened to my friend with Deltaco brand I think, wouldn't trust unbranded.
Of course, they do "work" but I wouldn't recommend fire hazard to anyone, and even the working isn't that stable, sometimes BIOS doesn't recognize devices powered by MOLEX-SATA.

Seeing as the DVD-Drive in second picture is powered by normal SATA cables I'd say for his friend to unplug that and use the cables for SSD if he doesn't use the drive.
Also good chances that there is one more SATA Power cable in the case somewhere free that you could use.

Not sure what you are talking about, but it's literally wires and plugs, you can make one at home. Perfectly safe as long as the pin out is conformed too.

Why would BIOS not recognise something powered by MOLEX to SATA? Again it's just 12v, 5v and GND lines, there is no difference wherever those originate from.

 

[Kudo]

Not sure what you are talking about, but it's literally wires and plugs, you can make one at home. Perfectly safe as long as the pin out is conformed too.

Why would BIOS not recognise something powered by MOLEX to SATA? Again it's just 12v, 5v and GND lines, there is no difference wherever those originate from.

Maybe a feature in BIOS, HDD or Motherboard but I've read that they can cause the HDD not being detected and after you reboot it detects it normally.

I'm just talking about my experiences and what I've read, all those pictures can't be fake and given that I've had an experience where the adapter melt friends dvd-drive ports I honestly cannot recommend those to anyone and would say to stay away from them, this happened year ago by the way.

And of course, you have to be very unlucky to get a bad one that will put your computer in fire, but honestly I wouldn't want to play that game when there's always other ways to do things that don't have such side quality to them.

 

[knitoe]

Maybe a feature in BIOS, HDD or Motherboard but I've read that they can cause the HDD not being detected and after you reboot it detects it normally.

I'm just talking about my experiences and what I've read, all those pictures can't be fake and given that I've had an experience where the adapter melt friends dvd-drive ports I honestly cannot recommend those to anyone and would say to stay away from them, this happened year ago by the way.

And of course, you have to be very unlucky to get a bad one that will put your computer in fire, but honestly I wouldn't want to play that game when there's always other ways to do things that don't have such side quality to them.

In the past, I have used them without issues. And, the item I listed have a rating of 4.5 / 5 stars. Chalk it up to your friend being unlucky.

 

[opticalmace]

Not sure what you are talking about, but it's literally wires and plugs, you can make one at home. Perfectly safe as long as the pin out is conformed too.

Why would BIOS not recognise something powered by MOLEX to SATA? Again it's just 12v, 5v and GND lines, there is no difference wherever those originate from.

My molex to sata adapter shorted and caught fire a year or two ago. I think the material isolating two of the pins was insufficient. In either case, I won't be using them again.

 

[Kudo]

In the past, I have used them without issues. And, the item I listed have a rating of 4.5 / 5 stars. Chalk it up to your friend being unlucky.

Thank you opticalmace.
Lots of other people been unlucky too. Too much cases to "chalk it up" just my friend being unlucky.

http://www.stevenhale.co.uk/main/2013/11/more-sata-adapter-fires/ Good comments on this one.
https://www.reddit.com/r/techsuppor...y_other_month_someone_tries_to_claim_our_ssd/
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1726933

And the list goes on.. But whatever, I gave my advice and it's up to him whether he listens to it or not. It'll probably work.

 

[LilJoka]

I know Molex is a very poor connector, but from your links it looks like the culprit is actually poor quality SATA connector parts, which are much harder to visually inspect. In this case I would I only recommend using the adaptor as a short term temporary solution.

Personally I had one that had the 12v and 5v pins swapped, killed an SSD and 2TB HDD 2 years ago. Haven't used them since but haven't needed too either. But this was something I found in a spare parts bin, not from retail.

 

[TheMink]

Your Current Specs: Starting fresh never done this before, I do have some 1-2 TB Hard Drives and one 240 GB Solid State. They are maybe 5 years old not sure if that matters.

Budget: $800-$900 US

Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest:
Light Gaming-5,
Gaming-5,
Emulation (PS2/Wii)-4,
Video Editing-1,
Streaming games in HD-2,
3D/Model work (and what program)-1,
General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)-2

Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?

1080p would be great. Ill be using a TV that I already have. I may buy a monitor for usage other places in the house.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?

Dark Souls, Skyrim, Street Fighter IV, Hearthstone (lol)
I would love to run new games at 1080p 60fps as I have been a console only gamer up to this point and 60 fps is supposed to be cool.
I don't know what those other things are.

Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 520HX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900)

The drives I mentioned earlier:
1x Mercury ETREME Pro 6G SSD 240GB
2x 2.0 TB WD SATA / 64mb Cache
1x 500 GB WD

I have pics if that information is useless.

When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?

I'm hoping to build it before I move into my new place so a month and a half ideally.

Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)

Maybe.

ihavenoideawhatimdoing:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/8Mk4WZ

I just picked the stuff that was in the Great-Best Value section.

Thanks in advanced for your help!

 

[ruttyboy]

Hi all,

Is there any functional difference between the 'G.Skill Ripjaws V Series' and the 'G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series'?

From what I can tell they are both DDR4 with the same timings, one just has a different cooler design on it to the other?

 

[derder]

Just built my first PC in my new place... How do I deal with increased ambient room temp? It's like a sauna in here.