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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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T

Transhuman

Unconfirmed Member
quick idiot check: how much of an issue am i going to have potentially pairing a core i3-4170 and an msi b85m-e45? will it require a bios update? if so, is that doable without having a compatible processor on hand?

edit: actually i'll just ask about the whole build and see if anyone recognizes anything. they're australian and want a 1500 dollar gaming rig, need keyboard/mouse/wireless networking/webcam/monitor, and mentioned pccasegear as a website they're okay with shopping at. i threw this together and would like opinions on it:

If I have one piece of advice, it's this:

http://staticice.com.au/
http://www.shopbot.com.au/

There's no need to focus on one site, you might save a smidgeon on shipping, but if you feet like diverse no. of options, you can just put each part you want in one of those (or both) and check out what the cheapest price is. Sometimes the sites will make you go to checkout and fill out details before they give you a shipping cost (it's usually min $10, max 20).

I mean if everything you want is on that one site and you honestly wouldn't change a thing, go with one site, but if there's a part on that list you're only getting because it's the closest match to the part you actually want, try looking around a little. I recently put this together (also an Aussie, all prices AUD and including shipping):

CPU - $328.93 - i5-4690
Mobo - $129 - ASRock H97M Pro4
Case - $137.11 - Corsair Air 240 (mATX)
RAM - $87.11 - Corsair Vengeance DDR3 8GB (2x4G) 1600MHz CL9 RAM
PSU - $88.95 - EVGA 500W Power Supply
GPU - $178.45 - Sapphire AMD Radeon R7 265 2G
SSD - $149.98 - Samsung 250GB SSD 850 EVO

All up $1100
 

Oogedei

Member
So one of the shops where I've preordered my Skylake CPU (have 3 preorders since I hope that one place will get it soon) informed me that they will get it towards the end of September...this is really driving me crazy since apart from the CPU everything arrived weeks ago. It's not possible to test the functionality of the rest of the hardware without the CPU which is the worst thing about it. Is there any news concerning availability in the U.S. (I live in Germany)?
 

Yurikerr

This post isn't by me, it's by a guy with the same username as me.
Reposting to see if anyone can help....

Hey guys, i just discovered that on of my RAM sticks is broken, so i decided to trade both.

I was searching for 1866 Mhz kits, but i keep getting good deals on the 2400Mhz ones.

I know that the CAS of the 2400mhz is 11 and the 1866Mhz is 8.

Is there a great difference between the two? To the point that is better to pay the premium and buy the 1866Mhz one?
 

Yurikerr

This post isn't by me, it's by a guy with the same username as me.
In everyday use and even gaming the timings and speed of the RAM don't affect much.

Honestly, you'd be fine with 1333 sticks if all you do is GAF and game.

So the sticks with the higher timing aren't a disadvantage?
 

Yurikerr

This post isn't by me, it's by a guy with the same username as me.
In the sorts of applications that you'd likely use, yeah. But, if you perform some synthetic benchmarks you'll see a difference.

Yeah, i'm sure i ain't running any of those for the foreseeable future.

Thanks for your help!
 

Gruso

Member
quick idiot check: how much of an issue am i going to have potentially pairing a core i3-4170 and an msi b85m-e45? will it require a bios update? if so, is that doable without having a compatible processor on hand?

edit: actually i'll just ask about the whole build and see if anyone recognizes anything. they're australian and want a 1500 dollar gaming rig, need keyboard/mouse/wireless networking/webcam/monitor, and mentioned pccasegear as a website they're okay with shopping at. i threw this together and would like opinions on it:
If I have one piece of advice, it's this:

http://staticice.com.au/
http://www.shopbot.com.au/

There's no need to focus on one site, you might save a smidgeon on shipping, but if you feet like diverse no. of options, you can just put each part you want in one of those (or both) and check out what the cheapest price is. Sometimes the sites will make you go to checkout and fill out details before they give you a shipping cost (it's usually min $10, max 20).

I mean if everything you want is on that one site and you honestly wouldn't change a thing, go with one site, but if there's a part on that list you're only getting because it's the closest match to the part you actually want, try looking around a little. I recently put this together (also an Aussie, all prices AUD and including shipping):
I love staticice for finding single items, but it can be a minefield of shitty websites, unpredictable shipping costs, and "not in stock" listings. For a build I start with au.pcpartpicker, and invariably end up getting it all at PCCG because they're so reliable. And getting everything in one box a couple of days later is like Christmas every time.

Just my 2c anyway.
 
T

Transhuman

Unconfirmed Member
I love staticice for finding single items, but it can be a minefield of shitty websites, unpredictable shipping costs, and "not in stock" listings. For a build I start with au.pcpartpicker, and invariably end up getting it all at PCCG because they're so reliable. And getting everything in one box a couple of days later is like Christmas every time.

Just my 2c anyway.

Yep, I probably could have (and should have) gotten 3 or 4 of my items from PCCG and would have worked out to be the same price. Or just gotten everything at PCCG and aimed at getting slightly better stuff.

Always next time I suppose.
 

Mr. Hyde

Member
I did some quick overclocking to my i5-6600k last night and ran a couple hours of prime95 and 12 hours of the x264 to test stability. It's running smooth at 4.3GHZ @ 1.28 volts. I could probably push it further but I am not really trying to crank it up too much right now. The temps were maxing out at 65c in Prime95 which is not too bad. I will do some practical tests by playing games later today.
 

RGM79

Member
The fan went to 0 rpms again

I am never destined to have a computer free issue am I?
So.. are you using any kind of physical fan controller, voltage reducing cable, or extension? Are you running the fans at a very low speed?

The only reason I can think of that relates to your issue is that some fans don't play well with low voltages and can stop spinning if set too low. You won't have complete control over the range of fan speeds, the lowest 20~30% of a fan's range is usually unusable because it will be too weak to spin. E.g., some fans can not spin at a speed below... 500RPM? It'll depend on the model exactly.
 

low-G

Member
Just felt the need to say the Define R5 is the best case I've ever had. Incredibly quiet. Between an original Xbox & QUIET PS4 in volume with CM212 & GTX970.

Sharp edges in some interior corners though and I scratched my hands, pretty bad in one spot, so take care!

Such an incredible case though, definitely recommend it.
 
Just felt the need to say the Define R5 is the best case I've ever had. Incredibly quiet. Between an original Xbox & QUIET PS4 in volume with CM212 & GTX970.

Sharp edges in some interior corners though and I scratched my hands, pretty bad in one spot, so take care!

Such an incredible case though, definitely recommend it.

OOooo nice to hear good things about it! I'm split between either the R5, NZXT Phantom 410 or NZXT H440.
 

Swig_

Member
Is it just me or do most of these 1151 mobos have very few USB ports? I'm trying to find a decent (sub $200) mobo for a Skylake build, but there's always a problem with the motherboards that I'm interested in. Either they don't have a USB 3.1 Type C port, or they only have a few "standard" USB ports (usually like two 2.0, two 3.0 and maybe one 3.1). The few mobos that have plenty of USB ports never have a type c port. And only a couple of them have a front panel for USB ports.

The one that I have found that matches most of what I'm looking for just happens to be made in colors that I'm not all that into. I really wanted something that was black with white or blue. The ASRock Z170 Extreme4+.
 

dgco86

Member
Am I absolutely batshit crazy for wanting to build an ITX system based on the x99 platform?

I was thinking of the following:

i7 5820K
Asrock X99E-ITX/ac
16GB RAM (probably Corsair or GSkill)
Gigabyte 980Ti G1 Gaming
Samsung 850 Pro 256GB
WD Green 3TB
Case - Undecided (this one's tough since the Gigabyte is pretty long. Also, my preference is for a black case that isn't too flashy)
PSU - Undecided
Cooler - Undecided (this one's tough since the Asrock's CPU socket is more narrow than usual. On the other hand the motherboard does include a compatible cooler)


Here's a more conventional ATX build that a local shop came up with over the weekend:

i7 5820K
Asus X99-A USB 3.1
16GB RAM (probably Corsair or GSkill)
Gigabyte 980Ti G1 Gaming
Samsung 850 Pro 256GB
WD Green 3TB
Corsair SPEC-01 (I'm undecided on this case and would probably prefer something smaller if possible. Also, my preference is for a black case that isn't too flashy)
Corsair RM850
Corsair H100i GTX

I guess my main reason for wanting ITX is to save on space. I've been running a HAF932 for the last 6 years and I'm not entirely sure if I really need such a big case. I don't foresee myself doing SLI or water cooling for example and it's taking up a lot of space in my room. On the other hand, I do realize the inherent irony of going for an enthusiast platform and sacrificing key features like the additional PCIE lanes and quad-channel memory just to get a smaller build.

I'd appreciate any input either on the bolded parts or in general. My 6 year old i7 920 system isn't completely dead yet so I think I can afford to wait a bit longer if there is something better on the horizon.

P.S. I was considering mATX too but most if not all x99 boards available in Singapore seem to be ATX. The ITX board just happens to be available because another user bought one by accident and is now selling it off.
 
Is it just me or do most of these 1151 mobos have very few USB ports? I'm trying to find a decent (sub $200) mobo for a Skylake build, but there's always a problem with the motherboards that I'm interested in. Either they don't have a USB 3.1 Type C port, or they only have a few "standard" USB ports (usually like two 2.0, two 3.0 and maybe one 3.1). The few mobos that have plenty of USB ports never have a type c port. And only a couple of them have a front panel for USB ports.

The one that I have found that matches most of what I'm looking for just happens to be made in colors that I'm not all that into. I really wanted something that was black with white or blue. The ASRock Z170 Extreme4+.

The gigabyte z170x-ud3 has a good number (http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5499#sp).

"Chipset:

7 x USB 3.0/2.0 ports (3 ports on the back panel, 4 ports available through the internal USB headers)
6 x USB 2.0/1.1 ports (2 ports on the back panel, 4 ports available through the internal USB headers)

Chipset+Intel® USB 3.1 Controller:

1 x USB Type-C™ port on the back panel, with USB 3.1 support
1 x USB 3.1 port on the back panel"

I'm sure the more expensive models do too, I just picked this one because it's probably the one I would buy ($150 usd on newegg).
 

Swig_

Member
The gigabyte z170x-ud3 has a good number (http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5499#sp).

"Chipset:

7 x USB 3.0/2.0 ports (3 ports on the back panel, 4 ports available through the internal USB headers)
6 x USB 2.0/1.1 ports (2 ports on the back panel, 4 ports available through the internal USB headers)

Chipset+Intel® USB 3.1 Controller:

1 x USB Type-C™ port on the back panel, with USB 3.1 support
1 x USB 3.1 port on the back panel"

I'm sure the more expensive models do too, I just picked this one because it's probably the one I would buy ($150 usd on newegg).


I'm wondering if I'm putting too much importance on USB 3.1 Type C. I'd like to have it, but it sounds like I can always add an expansion card or use a header to add a front panel with it.

I haven't looked into hardware since my last build (Core2 Quad Q6600) and things have changed greatly, so I'm a little lost in what I should buy.
 

RGM79

Member
Is it just me or do most of these 1151 mobos have very few USB ports? I'm trying to find a decent (sub $200) mobo for a Skylake build, but there's always a problem with the motherboards that I'm interested in. Either they don't have a USB 3.1 Type C port, or they only have a few "standard" USB ports (usually like two 2.0, two 3.0 and maybe one 3.1). The few mobos that have plenty of USB ports never have a type c port. And only a couple of them have a front panel for USB ports.

The one that I have found that matches most of what I'm looking for just happens to be made in colors that I'm not all that into. I really wanted something that was black with white or blue. The ASRock Z170 Extreme4+.

I'm wondering if I'm putting too much importance on USB 3.1 Type C. I'd like to have it, but it sounds like I can always add an expansion card or use a header to add a front panel with it.

I haven't looked into hardware since my last build (Core2 Quad Q6600) and things have changed greatly, so I'm a little lost in what I should buy.

How many ports do you want to have? Manufacturers have to balance out the number of ports and how PCI-E lanes are allocated to different systems. It seems that M.2 slots and SATA Express are popular to include (even if not used all that much) and those take up more lanes.

Yes, you're right about expansion cards and internal headers. There are SATA Express to USB 3.1 adaptors, ASRock and Asus offer front panel solutions.
 

Swig_

Member
How many ports do you want to have? Manufacturers have to balance out the number of ports and how PCI-E lanes are allocated to different systems. It seems that M.2 slots and SATA Express are popular to include (even if not used all that much) and those take up more lanes.

Yes, you're right about expansion cards and internal headers. There are SATA Express to USB 3.1 adaptors, ASRock and Asus offer front panel solutions.

I'm not sure, I'd have to count what I have plugged in at my system at home. Keyboard, Mouse, Wacom, Headset, possibly a printer, my UPS, I think that I have a couple of other things plugged in. That's what, about 6 or so right there, which doesn't include anything else I may need in the future. I also have a few things that I need to plug in, that aren't always plugged in, such as my DSLR, phone, etc. Some of those could be handled by front ports via a header on the motherboard. It's just cutting it very close.

I want to say that my current mobo has at least 8 and I think 7 of them have something attached.
 
I am having an extremely weird issue at the moment.

1080p 144hz G-Sync screen. I can run games fine @ 1080p above 60fps. As soon as I use DSR, the game caps at 60fps. No idea what is causing this. The refresh rates are set to 144 for all resolutions in Nvidia control panel.

This started happening with Life is Strange, so I just played at 1080p because I thought it is a game specific issue. Now the same with Fallout NV. WTF?
 

Jag

Member
How hard is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO to install? I'm reading nightmare stories on Reddit and people are suggesting other coolers like the NH-D15 or the CRYORIG H7.

This always happens the day I decide to pull the trigger, I get torn into 50 more directions.

I'm also having mobo and case second thoughts too.
 
How hard is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO to install? I'm reading nightmare stories on Reddit and people are suggesting other coolers like the NH-D15 or the CRYORIG H7.

This always happens the day I decide to pull the trigger, I get torn into 50 more directions.

I'm also having mobo and case second thoughts too.

I built my first computer a week ago. Installing the Cooler Master was, by far, the hardest part of the entire process. Must have taken at least three hours, if not more. I actually wish that someone had warned me; I'd had no idea how difficult it was going to be.

Sorry if that's not the answer you wanted to hear.

On the bright side, I DID eventually manage to install it, and I'm quite bad at these sorts of things. So there's that.
 

Jag

Member
I built my first computer a week ago. Installing the Cooler Master was, by far, the hardest part of the entire process. Must have taken at least three hours, if not more. I actually wish that someone had warned me; I'd had no idea how difficult it was going to be.

Sorry if that's not the answer you wanted to hear.

On the bright side, I DID eventually manage to install it, and I'm quite bad at these sorts of things. So there's that.

That's actually what I wanted to hear. Now I just need to figure out which other one to get.
 

Grinchy

Banned
How hard is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO to install? I'm reading nightmare stories on Reddit and people are suggesting other coolers like the NH-D15 or the CRYORIG H7.

This always happens the day I decide to pull the trigger, I get torn into 50 more directions.

I'm also having mobo and case second thoughts too.

It probably depends on how many times someone has installed a CPU cooler before. I haven't really done it all that many times and I didn't find the 212 difficult to install at all.

I didn't tighten the backplate quite enough the first time but that was easy for me to go in and fix.
 

Rebel Leader

THE POWER OF BUTTERSCOTCH BOTTOMS
So.. are you using any kind of physical fan controller, voltage reducing cable, or extension? Are you running the fans at a very low speed?

The only reason I can think of that relates to your issue is that some fans don't play well with low voltages and can stop spinning if set too low. You won't have complete control over the range of fan speeds, the lowest 20~30% of a fan's range is usually unusable because it will be too weak to spin. E.g., some fans can not spin at a speed below... 500RPM? It'll depend on the model exactly.

No I am not using any fan controller or extension.

Right now I have the fan plugged into system 1 slot on the MB to see what happens

EDIT: It happened agian when the fan is plugged into system 1 no other fan has a problem
gJ2xVPV.png

The fan always spins between 800-900rpm. I have no extensions. It's on auto in bios
 

cormack12

Gold Member
BIt of help?

I am in the process of building a medium PC for my brother, who is doing art/3D classes in college. Put it all together but it just shut itself down.

Symptoms:
Power on using power button.
Hear like a high faint high pitch whizz noise
Did get video briefly but now can't
Light on graphics card comes on (MSI) but fans don;t seem to spin

Component list:
MSI Radeon R9 380 Gaming 4096MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card
Intel Core i5-4690 3.50GHz (Haswell) Socket LGA1150 Processor - Retail
Crucial BX100 250GB SSD SATA 6Gbps 7mm Solid State Drive (CT250BX100SSD1)
EVGA Supernova GS 650W '80 Plus Gold' Modular Power Supply
Antec ISK600M mATX Cube Case - Black
Gigabyte H81M-D2V Intel H81 (Socket 1150) DDR3 Micro ATX Motherboard
Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C10 1600MHz Dual Channel Kit (HX316C10FBK28)
Samsung Ultra slim SU-208DB/BEBE 8x Slim internal DVD Writer with SATA - OEM

Any ideas? I have the 8 pin CPU and 24 pin power connected and have two PCI-E giong to the graphics card.....
 

pislit

Member
I have an i7-3770 on a Micro-ATX case and I want to put my gaming PC in the living room connected to my TV, while I have my laptop and monitor for work and other things.

Is the CPU ok for a Mini-ITX build? Granted, of course, I have to find a good video card that can fit in a Mini-ITX case (currently has GTX 760 4GB at 11 inch, is due for an upgrade). Or is it better to just find a Micro-ATX case that is small enough not to protrude all over my TV shelf. I want the smallest footprint as possible, and at the same time be a good gaming rig (single card: GTX 970 or up).

Or is the difference in size between ITX and Micro-ATX negligible especially when it comes to my set-up?
 

Jag

Member
Still hung up on cases. Anyone have experience with the Fractal Design Define S?

Looks like it gives up optical bays for airflow and cooling support. I have no intention of installing an optical. If I really need one for something, I'll buy a cheap external.
 

kennah

Member
I have an i7-3770 on a Micro-ATX case and I want to put my gaming PC in the living room connected to my TV, while I have my laptop and monitor for work and other things.

Is the CPU ok for a Mini-ITX build? Granted, of course, I have to find a good video card that can fit in a Mini-ITX case (currently has GTX 760 4GB at 11 inch, is due for an upgrade). Or is it better to just find a Micro-ATX case that is small enough not to protrude all over my TV shelf. I want the smallest footprint as possible, and at the same time be a good gaming rig (single card: GTX 970 or up).

Or is the difference in size between ITX and Micro-ATX negligible especially when it comes to my set-up?
CPU is great for an itx build, but you'd have a hard time finding a motherboard for it.

sell it to me for cheap and go skylake
 

RGM79

Member
No I am not using any fan controller or extension.

Right now I have the fan plugged into system 1 slot on the MB to see what happens

EDIT: It happened agian when the fan is plugged into system 1 no other fan has a problem
gJ2xVPV.png

Have you checked what fan settings in the BIOS are like, by any chance?

I'm not sure, I'd have to count what I have plugged in at my system at home. Keyboard, Mouse, Wacom, Headset, possibly a printer, my UPS, I think that I have a couple of other things plugged in. That's what, about 6 or so right there, which doesn't include anything else I may need in the future. I also have a few things that I need to plug in, that aren't always plugged in, such as my DSLR, phone, etc. Some of those could be handled by front ports via a header on the motherboard. It's just cutting it very close.

I want to say that my current mobo has at least 8 and I think 7 of them have something attached.

Maybe you should get a USB hub, it'd be easier than finding the perfect motherboard with the USB arrangement you want.
 

Rebel Leader

THE POWER OF BUTTERSCOTCH BOTTOMS
Have you checked what fan settings in the BIOS are like, by any chance?



Maybe you should get a USB hub, it'd be easier than finding the perfect motherboard with the USB arrangement you want.
Fan speed percentage is 0.75 PWM value/c
Control speed is set to normal
 

Knurek

Member
A question about Haswell Refresh support in the 8x series chipset - how can I make sure my mobo of choice will support the CPUs out of the box?
I know all (most?) of them do support newer Haswell CPUs, but I read that some require BIOS update. Not something I can do with only the motherboard and unsupported CPU, is it?
 
BIt of help?

I am in the process of building a medium PC for my brother, who is doing art/3D classes in college. Put it all together but it just shut itself down.

Symptoms:
Power on using power button.
Hear like a high faint high pitch whizz noise
Did get video briefly but now can't
Light on graphics card comes on (MSI) but fans don;t seem to spin

Component list:
MSI Radeon R9 380 Gaming 4096MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card
Intel Core i5-4690 3.50GHz (Haswell) Socket LGA1150 Processor - Retail
Crucial BX100 250GB SSD SATA 6Gbps 7mm Solid State Drive (CT250BX100SSD1)
EVGA Supernova GS 650W '80 Plus Gold' Modular Power Supply
Antec ISK600M mATX Cube Case - Black
Gigabyte H81M-D2V Intel H81 (Socket 1150) DDR3 Micro ATX Motherboard
Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C10 1600MHz Dual Channel Kit (HX316C10FBK28)
Samsung Ultra slim SU-208DB/BEBE 8x Slim internal DVD Writer with SATA - OEM

Any ideas? I have the 8 pin CPU and 24 pin power connected and have two PCI-E giong to the graphics card.....

Make sure the cpu cooler is seated correctly, double check cables.

If still nothing then unplug all but the essential components. **Check if the heatsink fan is spinning**
 
Am I absolutely batshit crazy for wanting to build an ITX system based on the x99 platform?


Here's a more conventional ATX build that a local shop came up with over the weekend:

i7 5820K
Asus X99-A USB 3.1
16GB RAM (probably Corsair or GSkill)
Gigabyte 980Ti G1 Gaming
Samsung 850 Pro 256GB
WD Green 3TB
Corsair SPEC-01 (I'm undecided on this case and would probably prefer something smaller if possible. Also, my preference is for a black case that isn't too flashy)
Corsair RM850
Corsair H100i GTX

I guess my main reason for wanting ITX is to save on space. I've been running a HAF932 for the last 6 years and I'm not entirely sure if I really need such a big case. I don't foresee myself doing SLI or water cooling for example and it's taking up a lot of space in my room. On the other hand, I do realize the inherent irony of going for an enthusiast platform and sacrificing key features like the additional PCIE lanes and quad-channel memory just to get a smaller build.

I'd appreciate any input either on the bolded parts or in general. My 6 year old i7 920 system isn't completely dead yet so I think I can afford to wait a bit longer if there is something better on the horizon.

P.S. I was considering mATX too but most if not all x99 boards available in Singapore seem to be ATX. The ITX board just happens to be available because another user bought one by accident and is now selling it off.


Pretty much just brought this system, but with 970, and corsair 540 case. It rocks!
 

kennah

Member
Am I absolutely batshit crazy for wanting to build an ITX system based on the x99 platform?

I was thinking of the following:

i7 5820K
Asrock X99E-ITX/ac
16GB RAM (probably Corsair or GSkill)
Gigabyte 980Ti G1 Gaming
Samsung 850 Pro 256GB
WD Green 3TB
Case - Undecided (this one's tough since the Gigabyte is pretty long. Also, my preference is for a black case that isn't too flashy)
PSU - Undecided
Cooler - Undecided (this one's tough since the Asrock's CPU socket is more narrow than usual. On the other hand the motherboard does include a compatible cooler)


Here's a more conventional ATX build that a local shop came up with over the weekend:

i7 5820K
Asus X99-A USB 3.1
16GB RAM (probably Corsair or GSkill)
Gigabyte 980Ti G1 Gaming
Samsung 850 Pro 256GB
WD Green 3TB
Corsair SPEC-01 (I'm undecided on this case and would probably prefer something smaller if possible. Also, my preference is for a black case that isn't too flashy)
Corsair RM850
Corsair H100i GTX

I guess my main reason for wanting ITX is to save on space. I've been running a HAF932 for the last 6 years and I'm not entirely sure if I really need such a big case. I don't foresee myself doing SLI or water cooling for example and it's taking up a lot of space in my room. On the other hand, I do realize the inherent irony of going for an enthusiast platform and sacrificing key features like the additional PCIE lanes and quad-channel memory just to get a smaller build.

I'd appreciate any input either on the bolded parts or in general. My 6 year old i7 920 system isn't completely dead yet so I think I can afford to wait a bit longer if there is something better on the horizon.

P.S. I was considering mATX too but most if not all x99 boards available in Singapore seem to be ATX. The ITX board just happens to be available because another user bought one by accident and is now selling it off.
Look into the Fractal Node. Available in both itx and matx as a cube, or atx as an htpc. All of them fit any dual slot gpu, they're sleek and black. I love mine.

Nothing stopping you from going itx x99, but it's stupid expensive and the money is better spent elsewhere (unless you're insane like me)
 

cormack12

Gold Member
Make sure the cpu cooler is seated correctly, double check cables.

If still nothing then unplug all but the essential components. **Check if the heatsink fan is spinning**

I think it's PSU - the high whine is deffo coming from that. I'll try and add each part individually tomorrow.
 

low-G

Member
How hard is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO to install? I'm reading nightmare stories on Reddit and people are suggesting other coolers like the NH-D15 or the CRYORIG H7.

This always happens the day I decide to pull the trigger, I get torn into 50 more directions.

I'm also having mobo and case second thoughts too.

CM 212 Evo was my first ever CPU HS/F install (I'd only done stock HSF with the preapplied compound before, and a GPU HSF replacement).

It wasn't even the hardest part of my PC build, and the biggest problem I had with the CM212 was one of the bolts didn't seem to want to go on one of the CM212's screws that you put on the mobo before installing the HS (using the included standoff tightener worked better than I expected, and I was worrying too much).

1. Watch videos online of how to install
2. Use a non electrically conductive thermal paste, I used MX-4 (so you don't worry about that).
3. Have 91% isopropyl alcohol & some q-tips easily available so you don't have to worry about fucking up
4. Take your time and look at what you're doing before you do it.

I'd consider the actual HSF installation part to actually have been surprisingly easy.

I spent plenty of time watching videos before but the actual part where I put the thermal paste on & added the HSF took like 2 minutes (getting the standoff screw onto the bolt took ~20 minutes and would have taken like 5 if I hadn't worried about it so much). Whole thing was <1 hour.
 
The Define S was tempting me. I don't need optical bays, but I do need the storage of the R5. Porn.

Edit: Hmmm, 3 3.5" slots and an additional 2 SSD bays might be enough for me.
 

RGM79

Member
quick idiot check: how much of an issue am i going to have potentially pairing a core i3-4170 and an msi b85m-e45? will it require a bios update? if so, is that doable without having a compatible processor on hand?

edit: actually i'll just ask about the whole build and see if anyone recognizes anything. they're australian and want a 1500 dollar gaming rig, need keyboard/mouse/wireless networking/webcam/monitor, and mentioned pccasegear as a website they're okay with shopping at. i threw this together and would like opinions on it:

A question about Haswell Refresh support in the 8x series chipset - how can I make sure my mobo of choice will support the CPUs out of the box?
I know all (most?) of them do support newer Haswell CPUs, but I read that some require BIOS update. Not something I can do with only the motherboard and unsupported CPU, is it?

Both of your questions are similar, so I'll answer you both at once.

If your motherboard does not come with a recent enough BIOS revision to support the CPU that you intend to use with the motherboard, it will not work period. You cannot update the motherboard using an incompatible CPU, either.

There are *some* motherboards that have the ability to update without requiring a compatible CPU, but those are usually only on higher end socket 1150 motherboards (unlikely to be a feature in the H81/B85/H87/etc motherboards that you guys are looking at).

What you guys can do is talk to the retailer - ask them if they can confirm what BIOS revision the motherboard comes with, and/or whether they can help you update the motherboard for you. If they don't do that, then another source of information can come from user reviews. Read the most recent reviews and see if anyone else who bought those motherboards have had issues with old BIOS revisions and/or incompatible processors.
 

ILoveBish

Member
I've built hundreds of PCs and the evo 212 was the most frustrating fan install I've ever experienced. I watched 4 videos of it installed and it was still a pita.
 

Ragona

Member
Got myself a R9 390 Nitro to replace my Gtx 670.
How do i handle the drivers now to make the swap flawelessly? Any tips?
 

Jzero

Member
Got myself a R9 390 Nitro to replace my Gtx 670.
How do i handle the drivers now to make the swap flawelessly? Any tips?

Download AMD drivers, remove Nvidia drivers, shut down, put in new gpu, turn on, force restart if needed and turn on again, install AMD drivers, done.
 

lorclonil

Neo Member
I had decided on getting the GTX 980 ti for my first build (I didn't want to worry about upgrading too soon) but now am waffling on this decision. Would it be better for me to get an R9 390 (or 390x) or GTX 970 to use until next year when the next refresh of nVidia cards are released?

Unfortunately this seems like a weird time to jump in to a PC build for the first time with Skylake being released and the upcoming DirectX 12 release. I have a feeling no matter what I do I'll be second guessing myself.

TL:DR Planning on picking up a GTX 980 ti (with the potential of selling it next year to get a Pascal card.) Really don't know what to do, trigger is being pulled on Wednesday/Thursday of this week. Advice?
 
I had decided on getting the GTX 980 ti for my first build (I didn't want to worry about upgrading too soon) but now am waffling on this decision. Would it be better for me to get an R9 390 (or 390x) or GTX 970 to use until next year when the next refresh of nVidia cards are released?

Unfortunately this seems like a weird time to jump in to a PC build for the first time with Skylake being released and the upcoming DirectX 12 release. I have a feeling no matter what I do I'll be second guessing myself.

TL:DR Planning on picking up a GTX 980 ti (with the potential of selling it next year to get a Pascal card.) Really don't know what to do, trigger is being pulled on Wednesday/Thursday of this week. Advice?
What monitor will you be using? i.e. what resolution and refresh rate are you aiming for... also, gsync/freesync or no?
 
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