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[Ultima_5]

I plan on building a pc sometime in april. Anyone see any issues with my parts list? Will mostly be gaming on a 1080p tv and probably switch to a 1440 monitor at some point. Will do some emulation and what not. Want it to be "future proof" for the next year or two hopefully. Maybe vr? idk yet. any issues?

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($374.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($153.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($72.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($329.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($137.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1426.19

 

[Muffin Awesome]

Oh, haha, we were both being vague, it turns out. The Asus VS247H-P is the monitor I use at home.

Appreciate all the follow ups, one final one, how does the quality of your 247 stack up against other IPS screens you have seen?

 

[Golgo 13]

So I've been meaning to pick up a gaming PC for awhile and stumbled upon this one at Best Buy --


http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypow...hite/4585900.p?id=1219773226138&skuId=4585900

It's an iBUYPOWER with some really respectable components for a really good price. Another reason this is so appealing to me is that I have about $300 in Best Buy credit I'm sitting on, and with a %10 Off coupon, this would come out to be like $850 or so for me. If there's any downsides to the hardware or configuration that I'm not aware of, I'd love to hear it. I'd be gaming on a 1080p TV, if that matters (which is why I'm not worried about waiting on a better graphics card).

Whatcha think?

 

[Shadowhaxor]

So I've been meaning to pick up a gaming PC for awhile and stumbled upon this one at Best Buy --


http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypow...hite/4585900.p?id=1219773226138&skuId=4585900

It's an iBUYPOWER with some really respectable components for a really good price. Another reason this is so appealing to me is that I have about $300 in Best Buy credit I'm sitting on, and with a %10 Off coupon, this would come out to be like $850 or so for me. If there's any downsides to the hardware or configuration that I'm not aware of, I'd love to hear it. I'd be gaming on a 1080p TV, if that matters (which is why I'm not worried about waiting on a better graphics card).

Whatcha think?

Considering that price and the fact that you can't get those parts for under that price, I say it's a good deal. I just priced a build to see where it would add up and i'm looking at 200-300 more for the parts.

 

[SomeLurker]

I apologize if there is an answer somewhere regarding my problem, but I am at a point where I am beyond tired trying to find a solution to my issue.

Here is my problem, the short simple version. Turn the computer on, get the awesome MSI Dragon screen (where I can access the BIOS by pressing DEL or F11 before boot), and then nothing. I cannot go past my MSI BIOS screen, even though I have installed Linux Mint 17.3 to my SSD. I bought the CD from OSDisc redirected from the Linux website.

Longer version: At my very first boot, I got the Linux screen stating automatic boot in 10 seconds. After the countdown, I get nothing. Restart. Again MSI screen>Linux Mint auto boot, but I decided to enter compatibility mode. Once I enter that, I go to install Linux on my SSD in compatibility mode. Go through that process (including encrypting my drive). Installation is done, tray opens, and screen states to press enter once CD is out of the tray to reboot. Do that, and STILL nothing. At this point, I took a break because I got a little upset. I revisit the issue this weekend, tweak some things pertaining to my Boot Priority in the BIOS. Again, go through compatibility mode, install without encrypting my disc and again nothing. Am I doing something wrong? The installation is seemingly completed through compatibility mode everytime I install the OS to my SSD, but I have not gotten past my MSI BIO dragon screen. I have installed Linux Mint 17.3 on my SSD plenty of times, tweaked the Boot Priority, restored default settings regarding Boot Priority, and no luck. I have reset my PC so many times already and had to shut down holding the power button everytime. It froze on me my last reset and now I am starting to get nervous. Everything is connected and snug in its respective place on the mobo.

This whole process of building my own gaming PC has been very frustrating and time consuming. Building the PC itself was a bit of a pain, but relieving and exciting once I was able to boot the computer at least to the MSI screen. Now I am having installation issues and if I cannot get this problem resolved, I gonna give up. Please help. I GREATLY appreciate it.

Here are my PC specs:
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/b_man2425/saved/KpQH99
I removed and re-installed the CMOS battery already.
The TV that I am using is a Sony KDL-40R450A. I have a DVI to HDMI cord. I tried both HDMI ports to no avail.

 

[RGM79]

I plan on building a pc sometime in april. Anyone see any issues with my parts list? Will mostly be gaming on a 1080p tv and probably switch to a 1440 monitor at some point. Will do some emulation and what not. Want it to be "future proof" for the next year or two hopefully. Maybe vr? idk yet. any issues?

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($374.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($153.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($72.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($329.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($137.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1426.19

There are some ways to bring down the cost.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($374.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($118.75 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($66.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($299.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($77.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1226.06
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-06 20:23 EST-0500

Most of the parts changes are made for cost savings such as the motherboard and case, but there's no drop in performance with these parts, just perhaps fewer features.

The RAM is rated for a higher speed, and the Crucial BX100 is faster than the BX200. The R9 390 is on par with the GTX 970 at 1080p and slightly faster at 1440p, the extra VRAM will allow it to not be bottlenecked as easily in the future. The Cooler Master PSU is a good model yet expensive, the EVGA model I chose instead is far better when it comes to cost and performance, as well as being highly reviewed.

The last two changes I made were to drop the DVD drive and change the Define R5 for the cheaper Define S. If you need a DVD drive then feel free to keep it in your parts list, but most people don't need one anyway, even Windows can be installed without one as long as you have a product key. The Define S is similar to the R5 but costs less because it has fewer features and has been redesigned without drive cages and instead mounts storage drives flat on the side of the case. It should have the same noise dampening but better airflow by default, and of course no physical fan controller and fewer storage bays.

So I've been meaning to pick up a gaming PC for awhile and stumbled upon this one at Best Buy --

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypow...hite/4585900.p?id=1219773226138&skuId=4585900

It's an iBUYPOWER with some really respectable components for a really good price. Another reason this is so appealing to me is that I have about $300 in Best Buy credit I'm sitting on, and with a %10 Off coupon, this would come out to be like $850 or so for me. If there's any downsides to the hardware or configuration that I'm not aware of, I'd love to hear it. I'd be gaming on a 1080p TV, if that matters (which is why I'm not worried about waiting on a better graphics card).

Whatcha think?

As far as price goes, that's pretty decent for $850 or so. As with all prebuilt PCs, areas to worry about are cheaper motherboards and power supplies. Cheap motherboards can lack expansion options and certain features, but if you have no desire to overclock or aren't looking for a specific feature, odds are it'll be adequate for your needs. The power supply is sometimes just so-so in terms of quality and often have just enough wattage to power the parts in the PC as is - if you want to do any upgrades in the future, you may have to consider replacing the power supply as well.

Appreciate all the follow ups, one final one, how does the quality of your 247 stack up against other IPS screens you have seen?

Haven't owned an IPS monitor myself, and I'm not exactly a quality monitor advice guy to begin with. I know cheap monitors only, haha.

I apologize if there is an answer somewhere regarding my problem, but I am at a point where I am beyond tired trying to find a solution to my issue.

Here is my problem, the short simple version. Turn the computer on, get the awesome MSI Dragon screen (where I can access the BIOS by pressing DEL or F11 before boot), and then nothing. I cannot go past my MSI BIOS screen, even though I have installed Linux Mint 17.3 to my SSD. I bought the CD from OSDisc redirected from the Linux website.

Longer version: At my very first boot, I got the Linux screen stating automatic boot in 10 seconds. After the countdown, I get nothing. Restart. Again MSI screen>Linux Mint auto boot, but I decided to enter compatibility mode. Once I enter that, I go to install Linux on my SSD in compatibility mode. Go through that process (including encrypting my drive). Installation is done, tray opens, and screen states to press enter once CD is out of the tray to reboot. Do that, and STILL nothing. At this point, I took a break because I got a little upset. I revisit the issue this weekend, tweak some things pertaining to my Boot Priority in the BIOS. Again, go through compatibility mode, install without encrypting my disc and again nothing. Am I doing something wrong? The installation is seemingly completed through compatibility mode everytime I install the OS to my SSD, but I have not gotten past my MSI BIO dragon screen. I have installed Linux Mint 17.3 on my SSD plenty of times, tweaked the Boot Priority, restored default settings regarding Boot Priority, and no luck. I have reset my PC so many times already and had to shut down holding the power button everytime. It froze on me my last reset and now I am starting to get nervous. Everything is connected and snug in its respective place on the mobo.

This whole process of building my own gaming PC has been very frustrating and time consuming. Building the PC itself was a bit of a pain, but relieving and exciting once I was able to boot the computer at least to the MSI screen. Now I am having installation issues and if I cannot get this problem resolved, I gonna give up. Please help. I GREATLY appreciate it.

Here are my PC specs:
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/b_man2425/saved/KpQH99
I removed and re-installed the CMOS battery already.
The TV that I am using is a Sony KDL-40R450A. I have a DVI to HDMI cord. I tried both HDMI ports to no avail.

Press F11 on startup and tell the motherboard to boot from the SSD? Do you still get a black screen? Are you installing in UEFI or legacy mode?

 

[Coma Ecliptic]

Alright parts ordered, my 11th computer built in my lifetime, my 2016 Stream Machine!

Anything you would change? Anyone here stream? If yes, what capture card do you use, it seems like the obvious answer is the HD60 Pro, but I've seen a couple Japanese cards that are more sought after.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: *Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($389.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GTX 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus SABERTOOTH X99 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($308.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($303.52 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Black 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($224.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($287.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB STRIX Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Phanteks ECLIPSE P400S ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($97.00 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 144Hz 27.0" Monitor (Purchased For $0.00)
Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 144Hz 27.0" Monitor (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1991.45

 

[SomeLurker]

Press F11 on startup and tell the motherboard to boot from the SSD? Do you still get a black screen? Are you installing in UEFI or legacy mode?

At first, both Legacy+UEFI. Then I changed that to just UEFI. Re-installed and nothing.

 

[RGM79]

Alright parts ordered, my 11th computer built in my lifetime, my 2016 Stream Machine!

Anything you would change? Anyone here stream? If yes, what capture card do you use, it seems like the obvious answer is the HD60 Pro, but I've seen a couple Japanese cards that are more sought after.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: *Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($389.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GTX 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus SABERTOOTH X99 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($308.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($303.52 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Black 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($224.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($287.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB STRIX Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Phanteks ECLIPSE P400S ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($97.00 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 144Hz 27.0" Monitor (Purchased For $0.00)
Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 144Hz 27.0" Monitor (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1991.45

Very expensive, but very high end. It's a monster PC that's sure to kick ass. Planning on high end overclocking?

The motherboard's so-so average user review score on Newegg is a bit disconcerting, but on Amazon the reviews are more positive. Two user reviews on Newegg claim the motherboard caught fire, and there are numerous other reviews stating issues with build quality such as the motherboard being totally or partly dead, some on arrival and some after a few days. Amazon customers don't seem to be having many issues, so I dunno.

Why 2x8GB instead of 4x4GB? X99 supports quad channel RAM and I don't think there's a reason not to opt for quad channel RAM's greater potential bandwidth, although I suppose the difference in real-life use isn't that great.

 

[SlaughterX]

My new pc will be here soon so I am planning on dropping a 1TB SSD in it and running 2 2TB HDDs in RAID (0 would make the most sense right?). I've been looking at the Mushkin Reactor for $230... I don't see any better deals on an SSD this size unless anyone else has any advice. I haven't used a RAID configuration in years but I hear it's pretty straight forward now...

 

[McHuj]

I wanna place an order soon for a Skylake build.

Currently looking at a MSI M7 or M5 or Gigabyte Gaming G7 MB. Any Recs? or what to avoid?

 

[Lockjaw333]

Appreciate all the follow ups, one final one, how does the quality of your 247 stack up against other IPS screens you have seen?

I own an Asus vs248h-p and replaced it with a Dell U2414H IPS monitor recently.

The vs248h-p is a good monitor as far as TN panels go. The motion and response time are superb. The issue I had with the monitor is that the color reproduction is pretty poor. You can get a calibrated profile for it at tftcentral.co.uk, but it still isnt great.

I went for the Dell because I value accurate color (I'm a novice display calibrator of sorts, just a hobby for now) and wanted an IPS panel. I absolutely LOVE the U2414H. It's a much, much better display than the vs248h-p. Granted it runs a little higher, I think it'd going for around $240 on amazon right now.

The vs248 is better with motion and response, but everything else is inferior. It's a good semi cheap tn, just don't expect a lot from it other than a clean image and excellent response. It doesn't compare to the IPS I have sadly. I'll never buy a tn again after experiencing an IPS.

PM me if you have more specific questions

 

[ckeur]

OK, after some good feedback from 3x0 and some more research on my behalf, here is the highish-end VR build I've got specced out:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($245.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($199.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($629.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($97.00 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($36.88 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus VS238H-P 23.0" Monitor ($123.58 @ Newegg)
Total: $1775.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-06 22:33 EST-0500

Anything seem missing / off, or any other recommendations in general? I switched up the motherboard, video card, and networking card from my last post.

I also have a question about USB installs. I don't plan on getting an optical drive (despite their low cost – I'll get one if I have to), but it looks like a USB install isn't much of a problem. I'm guessing I'll buy the software and then use its key during the USB installation. Is that correct?

 

[Bloodember]

I'm fine with a normal one. Don't really need one with all the macro keys and such.

Check the Das Keyboard 4 Professional out. Great keyboard.

Here's the link:
http://www.daskeyboard.com/daskeyboard-4-professional/

 

[ryuken-d]

I'm on the edge of my seat. everything I ordered for my first build is in my guest room except my motherboard..it should be here in two days.

I was wondering if 750watts would be enough. I'll probably wait to overclock...only cause I might not have too. this system is going to blow my socks off. also fyi total price was about $1800.

Intel Boxed Core I7-6700K 4.00 GHz 8M Processor Cache 4 LGA 1151 BX80662I76700K
Gigabyte LGA1151 Intel Z170 2-Way SLI ATX DDR4 GA-Z170X-Gaming 7
EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB SC+ GAMING ACX 2.0+, Whisper Silent Cooling w/plate
G.SKILL 16GB (2 x 8GB) TridentZ Series DDR4 PC4-25600 3200MHz for Intel Z170
Samsung EVO 250GB SSD
Seagate 3TB Desktop HDD SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive
Corsair RM Series, RM750, 750 Watt (750W), Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Gold Cert.
Thermaltake Core V31 Liquid Cooling Certified ATX Mid Tower Window Gaming Case
ARCTIC Liquid Freezer 240, High Performance CPU Water Cooler with Four 120 mm Low
Microsoft Windows 10 Home | USB Flash Drive

 

[Coma Ecliptic]

Very expensive, but very high end. It's a monster PC that's sure to kick ass. Planning on high end overclocking?

The motherboard's so-so average user review score on Newegg is a bit disconcerting, but on Amazon the reviews are more positive. Two user reviews on Newegg claim the motherboard caught fire, and there are numerous other reviews stating issues with build quality such as the motherboard being totally or partly dead, some on arrival and some after a few days. Amazon customers don't seem to be having many issues, so I dunno.

Why 2x8GB instead of 4x4GB? X99 supports quad channel RAM and I don't think there's a reason not to opt for quad channel RAM's greater potential bandwidth, although I suppose the difference in real-life use isn't that great.

I will more than likely add another 2 sticks of 16GB at some point. I'm going to overclock the hell out of the CPU yes.

The motherboard was the biggest thing I stressed over for this build, but based on reviews and more recent feedback the Sabertooth seemed the way to go. I almost went MSI SLI Plus, but I got a great deal on a Sabertooth board from Amazon Warehouse Deals for $220 that was brand new in the box. Very strange how X99 boards had so many negative reviews, it made choosing a board very hard.

 

[rickyson1]

so i've been looking to pick up a third monitor for a while and the plan is for it to be a 4k one when pascal comes out and I get a new graphics card or two

what's a good one to buy nowadays? i'm willing to pay for quality within reason but not looking for something like a super expensive 1k+ one(and something like g-sync would be wasted on me anyways since I use borderless or windowed for stuff never fullscreen)


also does it matter if the brand and such is the same for ram?(not within the same pair but considering adding a second pair of 8GB sticks in)

 

[ryuken-d]

this may sound stupid but is there any wifi capabilities on high-end mothers boards? I can't practically use wired internet so wifi is my only option. do I really need to buy an adapter?
if so I was looking at this.

ASUS Wi-Fi PCI Express Adapter (PCE-AC56)

another -+100$ fuck

 

[RGM79]

this may sound stupid but is there any wifi capabilities on high-end mothers boards? I can't practically use wired internet so wifi is my only option. do I really need to buy an adapter?
if so I was looking at this.

ASUS Wi-Fi PCI Express Adapter (PCE-AC56)

another -+100$ fuck

What country are you in and where are you buying the parts? It's easier and cheaper to just get a separate wifi adaptor rather than look for a motherboard with the wifi capability you need built in.

What router do you have? If you have a wireless AC router then you'll want a wireless AC adaptor, but if your router is only wireless N capable, then you can just get a cheaper wireless N adaptor.

 

[luffeN]

I generally would not recommend putting in a magnetic hard drive (SSD is fine) without proper mounting. If it vibrates or is sitting at a weird angle or falls out of place it could cause irreparable damage.

No, of course, trying to find something secure.

I use a 3.5" to 5.25" adapter and mount my HDD under my DVD drive in my R4. I took all the HDD cages out to improve airflow in the case.The adapters are cheap, $5 or so on Amazon.

I see, that could work. What about the heat from the HDD under your drive? Not concerned?

 

[Hands of Stone]

Fuck I think I may have fried my Mobo. Plugged my apple USB charger and as soon as I did my PC just shut off.

Won't boot back up now either.

Any sure fire ways to know its the Mobo?

 

[Bloodember]

I'm on the edge of my seat. everything I ordered for my first build is in my guest room except my motherboard..it should be here in two days.

I was wondering if 750watts would be enough. I'll probably wait to overclock...only cause I might not have too. this system is going to blow my socks off. also fyi total price was about $1800.

Intel Boxed Core I7-6700K 4.00 GHz 8M Processor Cache 4 LGA 1151 BX80662I76700K
Gigabyte LGA1151 Intel Z170 2-Way SLI ATX DDR4 GA-Z170X-Gaming 7
EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB SC+ GAMING ACX 2.0+, Whisper Silent Cooling w/plate
G.SKILL 16GB (2 x 8GB) TridentZ Series DDR4 PC4-25600 3200MHz for Intel Z170
Samsung EVO 250GB SSD
Seagate 3TB Desktop HDD SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive
Corsair RM Series, RM750, 750 Watt (750W), Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Gold Cert.
Thermaltake Core V31 Liquid Cooling Certified ATX Mid Tower Window Gaming Case
ARCTIC Liquid Freezer 240, High Performance CPU Water Cooler with Four 120 mm Low
Microsoft Windows 10 Home | USB Flash Drive

Yes, 750watt is enough.

 

[McHuj]

Fuck I think I may have fried my Mobo. Plugged my apple USB charger and as soon as I did my PC just shut off.

Won't boot back up now either.

Any sure fire ways to know its the Mobo?

Could be the power supply as well. That would be the easiest component to try and replace first.

 

[Hands of Stone]

Could be the power supply as well. That would be the easiest component to try and replace first.

Would me plugging in that usb charger fry the PS? I would think it'd be the mobo.

 

[Tizoc]

If you're wanting something truly small form factor what about the alienware alpha? It's GPU runs games about the same settings and FPS as the PS4

It starts at $500
http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-alpha/pd

A word of warning if you want to build one yourself small form factor PC's are a pain in the butt to work in when building and magnitudes more difficult than a mid or full size tower.

Thanks for the info, I'll look them up and work my way from there XP
If I got any more questions I'll ask int hese threads, thanks mate.

 

[McHuj]

Would me plugging in that usb charger fry the PS? I would think it'd be the mobo.

It's possible to have fried anything along that path from the wall to the charger.

It's probably your MB, but maybe worth looks my at the PS as well. Was it a good MB or PS?

 

[3x0]

HD 7950 to gtx 770 4gb is a decent boost I assume? Got the 770 for 150, couldn't pass it up

GTX 770 is a faster version of GTX 680. The GTX680 traded blows with the HD7970, which is ~10-ish percent faster compared to the HD7950. You'll see ~15-20% improvement maybe.

Would me plugging in that usb charger fry the PS? I would think it'd be the mobo.

Some over-current-protections in power supplies prevent it from powering the machine a couple of hours after the protection kicks in. You could try turning off the switch on the power supply and wait some time (15+min.), switch the power on and try booting the system. If it doesn't work try the above procedure again and see if it works now.

 

[Hands of Stone]

It's possible to have fried anything along that path from the wall to the charger.

It's probably your MB, but maybe worth looks my at the PS as well. Was it a good MB or PS?

PS is the EVGA 650W gold, and the MB is a gigabyte (at work cant quite remember which variant)

 

[brotkasten]

How much would DDR3-1866 slow down a Core i3-6100?

I'm asking, because I'm still thinking about upgrading my HTPC, but also want to make the jump from 8 GB to 16 GB RAM on my main machine. I thought buying one set of 16 GB DDR3-2133 for the main machine and putting the old 8 GB set into the new HTPC would be more convenient.

I'd use the HTPC for media, streaming games and light gaming.

 

[RGM79]

How much would DDR3-1866 slow down a Core i3-6100?

I'm asking, because I'm still thinking about upgrading my HTPC, but also want to make the jump from 8 GB to 16 GB RAM on my main machine. I thought buying one set of 16 GB DDR3-2133 for the main machine and putting the old 8 GB set into the new HTPC would be more convenient.

I'd use the HTPC for media, streaming games and light gaming.

What motherboard do you have paired with the i3 6100? Unless you purchased one that specifically supports DDR3, it won't work. Intel recommends that Skylake be used with DDR3L or DDR4. There are Skylake motherboards that accept standard DDR3, but it's not known if there are any adverse effects in the long term due to DDR3's higher voltage compared to DDR3L and DDR4.

According to this, I don't think you should see much to worry about if you aren't using your PC for anything super intensive.

 

[Brandon F]

Well my 120gb SSD hit capacity for the OS and some other system-level programs, while my 1tb HDD also is completely maxed out(though I'll clean up my Steam library a bit to free up space), so I decided to jump aboard the m.2 NVME train and got a 256gb version which should handle my OS and system stuff with more room to spare(now at even better speeds). Been itching to fill that slot on my mobo ever since I built my PC last month out of pure curiosity(though I probably would be equally as well served with a 500gb 850 EVO for even less, but that empty M.2 is taunting me!)

Anything to concern over if I use cloning software/data migration from my old SSD to the M.2 to avoid reinstalling everything and dealing with various Win 10 relicensing issues?

 

[Sleeping Lesson]

Heads up with today's new Nvidia drivers. Some people are reporting it's causing their system to fail to boot.

 

[e90Mark]

Well my 120gb SSD hit capacity for the OS and some other system-level programs, while my 1tb HDD also is completely maxed out(though I'll clean up my Steam library a bit to free up space), so I decided to jump aboard the m.2 NVME train and got a 256gb version which should handle my OS and system stuff with more room to spare(now at even better speeds). Been itching to fill that slot on my mobo ever since I built my PC last month out of pure curiosity(though I probably would be equally as well served with a 500gb 850 EVO for even less, but that empty M.2 is taunting me!)

Anything to concern over if I use cloning software/data migration from my old SSD to the M.2 to avoid reinstalling everything and dealing with various Win 10 relicensing issues?

Did you get the 950 PRO? I really wanna try one out myself. Still on a 128GB M4 for OS.

Should be good cloning over the current drive to your new drive. There shouldn't be any licensing issues with Win 10.

 

[Hands of Stone]

Some over-current-protections in power supplies prevent it from powering the machine a couple of hours after the protection kicks in. You could try turning off the switch on the power supply and wait some time (15+min.), switch the power on and try booting the system. If it doesn't work try the above procedure again and see if it works now.

Huh, didn't know that. I'll definitely try when I it out again when I get home.

Big question, if the motherboard is indeed fried, what's the chance it also damaged my CPU/GPU?

 

[A Grizzly Bear]

My cousin is building a computer and I'm not sure what video card to suggest to him. I know the 970 is good bang for your buck, but I've been seeing the R9 390x show up more and more as being a better deal. He's looking to spend around $500 CDN.

 

[cHinzo]

Okay guys, so what do you guys think about my budget build? I live in Europe.

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 - Boxed (€218,70)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H (€84,80)
Memory: HyperX Fury 16GB DDR4 2133 MHz (€72,80)
PSU: Seasonic S12II 520W (€59,80)
Case: Sharkoon BW9000-W (€74,80)

Gonna use an EVGA 970 GTX, a Crucial BX100 250GB and 500GB Toshiba HDD which I already have. Should I get the 620W Seasonic PSU instead for like 10 bucks more (cost €71,70) or is the 520W fine? The case has 3 fans included and the Gigabyte motherboard provided 1 CPU fan header and 3 case fan headers. Any better motherboard for recommendation? Thanks a lot!

 

[Deleted member 22576]

Have you guys ever used adafruit?
They seem to be a good supplier for usb connectors to use for custom cables.

 

[LilJoka]

this may sound stupid but is there any wifi capabilities on high-end mothers boards? I can't practically use wired internet so wifi is my only option. do I really need to buy an adapter?
if so I was looking at this.

ASUS Wi-Fi PCI Express Adapter (PCE-AC56)

another -+100$ fuck

TP link PCIE wireless cards do the job.

 

[bomblord1]

this may sound stupid but is there any wifi capabilities on high-end mothers boards? I can't practically use wired internet so wifi is my only option. do I really need to buy an adapter?
if so I was looking at this.

ASUS Wi-Fi PCI Express Adapter (PCE-AC56)

another -+100$ fuck

A ton of Mobo's have wifi built in. The Mobo I just bought has a pretty good wireless card built in. On Newegg searching for Mobo's you can even filter by built in wifi type.

 

[TriniTrin]

Hey guys!
Quick question for ya! I am looking to perhaps upgrade my memory from ddr3 16gb 1333mhz ram to ddr3 16gb 2333mhz ram.

I watched that digital foundry video about the 2500k and how you can get some extra performance from memory. I wanted to see if you guys think it would be worth it to upgrade the speed of the memory for a few extra frames. Thanks for your help!!

 

[Lactose_Intolerant]

My cousin is building a computer and I'm not sure what video card to suggest to him. I know the 970 is good bang for your buck, but I've been seeing the R9 390x show up more and more as being a better deal. He's looking to spend around $500 CDN.

970 and 390 trade blows in dx11 games but it seems like the AMD line is better for dx12 games. Though the sample size has been pretty small.

Also, games are starting to use more and more ram so the 3.5 gigs of the 970 will cause more problems as time goes by if you want to play on max textures.

 

[brotkasten]

What motherboard do you have paired with the i3 6100? Unless you purchased one that specifically supports DDR3, it won't work. Intel recommends that Skylake be used with DDR3L or DDR4. There are Skylake motherboards that accept standard DDR3, but it's not known if there are any adverse effects in the long term due to DDR3's higher voltage compared to DDR3L and DDR4.

According to this, I don't think you should see much to worry about if you aren't using your PC for anything super intensive.

The Gigabyte B150M-D3H is basically my only semi-affordable option (€80), because my riser card demands two PCI slows below the PCIe x16 slot.

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5516#ov

The spec sheet says it supports DDR3L or DDR3 up to 1866 MHz (via OC, so it doesn't really).

Now, I could get rid of the PCI portion on the riser card and be more flexible with the mainboard, but then I'd have to ditch my soundcard (Theatron DTS 7.1, w/CMI8788 chip). Maybe it wouldn't be that bad. I'll look into it.

 

[Turrican3]

Hi everyone, I'm currently re-evaluating the budget, with my needs listed HERE.

I'd go for a stock i5 6600, 16GB RAM.
But I'm a little confused about the motherboard: not being an overclock guy, nor wanting to go SLI anytime soon, I wonder if I might just settle for an H170 motherboard instead of a Z170 one.

I'm also thinking about postponing the purchase of a GPU card and just go for a while with just the integrated one (coming from a Core 2 Duo + 4830 I am confident it wouldn't turn out to be a step backward anyway lol), so that maybe when the next generation from Nvidia and/or AMD arrives I *might* be able to snag a 970 for less.

What do you think?

 

[Brandon F]

Did you get the 950 PRO? I really wanna try one out myself. Still on a 128GB M4 for OS.

Should be good cloning over the current drive to your new drive. There shouldn't be any licensing issues with Win 10.

Yep, grabbed the 950 Pro!

Not really certain if the added speeds will be all THAT useful for general use, but my curiosity was killing me and if I went 850 Evo as an upgrade I would be forever left wondering about the 950...

I'll post thoughts after I install it tonight or tmrw.

 

[Hey Im Patrick]

Hi everyone, I'm currently re-evaluating the budget, with my needs listed HERE.

I'd go for a stock i5 6600, 16GB RAM.
But I'm a little confused about the motherboard: not being an overclock guy, nor wanting to go SLI anytime soon, I wonder if I might just settle for an H170 motherboard instead of a Z170 one.

What do you think?

I have 6600 with 16gb ram as well. I went with a MSI B150A Gaming. Because I like pretty lights.

 

[M2C3]

Quick question for you guys:

I have a 6700k/Asus Z170 Deluxe with 2 Gigabyte G1 GTX 980Ti's and in the BIOS it is showing the top card running in x4. GPU-Z is also showing it running in x4. The bottom card is running in x8 in both the BIOS and GPU-Z. Now, GeForce Control Panel is showing both cards running in x8 and I don't have any problems running games in SLI (SLI requires x8).

I haven't tried swapping them yet or taking one out and see if anything changes.

Has this happened to anyone else?

 

[RGM79]

Quick question for you guys:

I have a 6700k/Asus Z170 Deluxe with 2 Gigabyte G1 GTX 980Ti's and in the BIOS it is showing the top card running in x4. GPU-Z is also showing it running in x4. The bottom card is running in x8 in both the BIOS and GPU-Z. Now, GeForce Control Panel is showing both cards running in x8 and I don't have any problems running games in SLI (SLI requires x8).

I haven't tried swapping them yet or taking one out and see if anything changes.

Has this happened to anyone else?

Sometimes certain power saving features can slow the slot down to a lower PCI-E speed. Go back into GPU-Z and click on the question mark to the right of the field that tells you what PCI-E mode it's running in. It'll show you a small 3D rendering test (with a checkbox option for SLI/crossfire) that can tell you if it's stuck in x4 mode when the graphics card is actually doing work.

 

[M2C3]

Sometimes certain power saving features can slow the slot down to a lower PCI-E speed. Go back into GPU-Z and click on the question mark to the right of the field that tells you what PCI-E mode it's running in. It'll show you a small 3D rendering test (with a checkbox option for SLI/crossfire) that can tell you if it's stuck in x4 mode when the graphics card is actually doing work.

Thanks for the reply. This is what I saw during the render:

980 Ti: PCI-E 3.0 x16 @ x4 3.0
980 Ti: PCI-E 3.0 x16 @ x8 1.1

I've emailed Asus and am intrigued at what their response will be. Updated to the latest BIOS as well.

 

[RGM79]

Hi everyone, I'm currently re-evaluating the budget, with my needs listed HERE.

I'd go for a stock i5 6600, 16GB RAM.
But I'm a little confused about the motherboard: not being an overclock guy, nor wanting to go SLI anytime soon, I wonder if I might just settle for an H170 motherboard instead of a Z170 one.

I'm also thinking about postponing the purchase of a GPU card and just go for a while with just the integrated one (coming from a Core 2 Duo + 4830 I am confident it wouldn't turn out to be a step backward anyway lol), so that maybe when the next generation from Nvidia and/or AMD arrives I *might* be able to snag a 970 for less.

What do you think?

It's perfectly fine. You can see a general comparison of the Intel 100 series chipsets here. If you don't need to overclock, you'll probably be just fine with a cheaper B150 or H170 motherboard. Keep in mind though, it seems that most motherboard manufacturers are only including some of the newest features on the higher end and more expensive motherboard models like Z170. It's been difficult to find a decent B150/H170 motherboard with USB 3.1 and type C, for example.

The Gigabyte B150M-D3H is basically my only semi-affordable option (€80), because my riser card demands two PCI slows below the PCIe x16 slot.

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5516#ov

The spec sheet says it supports DDR3L or DDR3 up to 1866 MHz (via OC, so it doesn't really).

Now, I could get rid of the PCI portion on the riser card and be more flexible with the mainboard, but then I'd have to ditch my soundcard (Theatron DTS 7.1, w/CMI8788 chip). Maybe it wouldn't be that bad. I'll look into it.

How do you have your HTPC set up? Do you have speakers hooked up to your HTPC, or are you outputting sound to TV or an A/V receiver? If it's the latter two, you could hook it up via HDMI, that wouldn't go through a sound card or even use the motherboard's onboard sound chipset.

Thanks for the reply. This is what I saw during the render:

980 Ti: PCI-E 3.0 x16 @ x4 3.0
980 Ti: PCI-E 3.0 x16 @ x8 1.1

I've emailed Asus and am intrigued at what their response will be. Updated to the latest BIOS as well.

You may want to check your BIOS settings for anything related to PCI-E power management/savings and disable those too.

 

[woodland]

Hey all, can anyone help me with a frankenstein build? Looking to update my PC - it's been about 6 years since I got it and it only has 512mb (!) of memory in the video card.

Anyway, I'm hoping to keep my mobo, case, HDD, and PSU just to save some cash.

My mobo: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5366#ov

My case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119227&Tpk=N82E16811119227

Here is my PC Part Picker list too:

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/woodland/saved/#view=rGWgXL

Made it before I got the fan (had huge heating issues with my current PC) and decided on keeping the case/mobo. So really my only main purchases would be the CPU, GPU, and the fan that I already bought. I just want to know, will keeping this mobo provide many issues down the road? I'll mainly be using the computer for gaming and some 3D modeling/animation. Thank you!

edit: I checked out i5's earlier but even the cheapest one is roughly $200, so that's why I went with the FX-8350. Would an i5 really be that much better too?