opticalmace
Member
Installed all your drivers?
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Installed all your drivers?
Dusktildawn48
Member
indeed, reinstalling now, just realized im getting a driver crashed popup when starting firestrick.
edit: yep that fixed it.
roadrunn3r
Member
There are two Souls games on PC and while the first had issues, DS2 could be maxed on a 7 years old PC @60fps. (HD 5770) It's actually one of the better optimized japanese ports released on the platform. Even the first game is fine if you use Durante's dsfix. Now if a 7850 is enough for DS3 we don't know yet and could very well not be up to the task.
DaxMedFlax
Member
Sounds good, thanks. I would be able to get it for about 300$ which might not seem like such a deal until you realise the card goes for about 450$ at retailers (Norway is not a cheap place.)
Will definitely look into overclocking the CPU.
DeathByBacklog
Member
Ok so I ordered those 2 Western Digital 4TB Reds from dell.ca. Noticing now that amazon has some 3rd party retailers selling them for $45 cheaper per drive. They do state that it's the OEM drive. Not sure what I'm getting from Dell.
If Dell is selling the retail box, is it worth the extra price? Or should I just skip it and go for the OEMs?
If Dell is selling the retail box, is it worth the extra price? Or should I just skip it and go for the OEMs?
Just want to post an image of what it should look like:
Now I did buy the H110i gt used but it included all the hardware! I did use the right screw stubs or whatever they are called! (made sure not to use 1150/AMD ones)
Ideas? I cant find anything on this. I thought about removing the built-in CPU bracket from the godlike but then again the H110i doesnt include an 2011-3 back bracket as x99 boards have it included.
I think that's your problem. That thing is called a threaded hex standoff, and the thickness of m/b was counted when pick the length. You have two options, (1) just go buy four standoff but one bit short for the threaded part. (2) jam something between the cpu block and the bracket, e.g., a small piece of a credit card.
a quick and dirty (3) threw away the thumb screws and standoffs, just go buy 4 long screws and bunch of nuts (and washers if necessary) of the same thread.
Just want to post an image of what it should look like:
Now I did buy the H110i gt used but it included all the hardware! I did use the right screw stubs or whatever they are called! (made sure not to use 1150/AMD ones)
Ideas? I cant find anything on this. I thought about removing the built-in CPU bracket from the godlike but then again the H110i doesnt include an 2011-3 back bracket as x99 boards have it included.
Did you read the manual? You're most likely using the incorrect standoff screws or have screwed it in backward? The ones for X99 installation are shorter and won't result in a gap.
An1malhouse365
Neo Member
Not being specific on a budget. Just keeping it low. Say $300-400 not including windows or peripherals. and the case we already have.
Did you read the manual? You're most likely using the incorrect standoff screws or have screwed it in backward? The ones for X99 installation are shorter and won't result in a gap.
Yes I am using the "H" stand off screws. I mean that was the only set matches the pic.
Now I did buy this used (wasnt installed as it didnt fit previous buyer's case) but it came with extra hardware. For instance instead of the 8 long screws, it was 12. And 16 washers instead of only 8. It could be possible I got the wrong "H" screws. (a tad taller)
Now lets say I do a quick "fix", I can put some small foam stuff between the bracket and block to help secure it, my only question is does the water block ever heat up? Ill see what I can do later after work.
Hi guys,
I'm building myself a PC that'll be mainly for work but also a bit for gaming. I don't intend on playing any AAA game, it'd be few years-old games.
The thing is that I live in Japan, so PartPicker won't do for me. I'm also on a tight budget, somewhere around 50000 yens (400/450$) would be ideal.
After reading up a bit, I made the following basket from Amazon.co.jp :
CPU: Pentium G4400 - 7214 yens
Motherboard: Asrock H110m-hdv - 7481 yens
RAM: DDR 4 PC17000 8Go crucial - 5298 yens
Graphics: Zotac Gtx 750 ti 2go DDR5 - 13262 yens
Harddrive: SSD crucial 240go - 7738 yens
Power: Corsair CX430M - 5998 yens
Case: Silverstone Précision SST-PS08B - 5184 yens
I'm uncertain about power&case and hope I'm not mistaken with those, don't really have a clue and took whatever was close to build suggestions I found here and there...
I have a grand total of 52231 yens, about 416/468$. What do you think?
Note that I'm pretty limited in my choices, a lot of the builds I've read about here or in some other places have parts that are difficult to find here. I guess there might be some local makers with good deals but I don't know a thing about them and I've only looked on Amazon.co.jp and Tsukumo.co.jp, a local PC parts specialist.
Thanks in advance for the advice!
I'm building myself a PC that'll be mainly for work but also a bit for gaming. I don't intend on playing any AAA game, it'd be few years-old games.
The thing is that I live in Japan, so PartPicker won't do for me. I'm also on a tight budget, somewhere around 50000 yens (400/450$) would be ideal.
After reading up a bit, I made the following basket from Amazon.co.jp :
CPU: Pentium G4400 - 7214 yens
Motherboard: Asrock H110m-hdv - 7481 yens
RAM: DDR 4 PC17000 8Go crucial - 5298 yens
Graphics: Zotac Gtx 750 ti 2go DDR5 - 13262 yens
Harddrive: SSD crucial 240go - 7738 yens
Power: Corsair CX430M - 5998 yens
Case: Silverstone Précision SST-PS08B - 5184 yens
I'm uncertain about power&case and hope I'm not mistaken with those, don't really have a clue and took whatever was close to build suggestions I found here and there...
I have a grand total of 52231 yens, about 416/468$. What do you think?
Note that I'm pretty limited in my choices, a lot of the builds I've read about here or in some other places have parts that are difficult to find here. I guess there might be some local makers with good deals but I don't know a thing about them and I've only looked on Amazon.co.jp and Tsukumo.co.jp, a local PC parts specialist.
Thanks in advance for the advice!
Cute Dragon Here
Member
The system appears to be mostly fine, but I'm a bit reserved about the 750 Ti. You probably can get a 950 for not much more than what you're paying for...
Also do note that the G4400 isn't too hot if you eventually do want AAA gaming, but it probably will work fine. Thing is these kind of games these days would want 4 threads ideally, and the Pentium gives you just 2.
Currently re-re-re-evaluating configuration.
Considering I'm interested in 720p/1080p gaming @60fps with console-level settings, would it be possible to get something a bit cheaper by going AMD for both CPU and GPU instead of the Intel/Nvidia combo (i5 6600 + 970) I was planning before?
I'm asking especially because this somewhat old post of the always excellent Durante linked in the DF The Division thread made me think about what I would *actually* need for what I want to achieve... but also, I rarely see people suggesting AMD CPUs so I guess there must be something that makes them not the best choice around.
Basically, I'm confused so I need some extra help/suggestions. ^__^
Considering I'm interested in 720p/1080p gaming @60fps with console-level settings, would it be possible to get something a bit cheaper by going AMD for both CPU and GPU instead of the Intel/Nvidia combo (i5 6600 + 970) I was planning before?
I'm asking especially because this somewhat old post of the always excellent Durante linked in the DF The Division thread made me think about what I would *actually* need for what I want to achieve... but also, I rarely see people suggesting AMD CPUs so I guess there must be something that makes them not the best choice around.
Basically, I'm confused so I need some extra help/suggestions. ^__^
Cute Dragon Here
Member
i3-6100 + GTX 950? Yeah, you're overshooting by a large margin if you go with i5-6600 and GTX 970. That's more for 1080p 60 FPS at High or better settings, which would make things look nicer than console - IIRC GTX 970 is kind of like about 3 Xbox Ones duct taped together. The GTX 950 should be close enough at console-quality or slightly better at 1080p, though not all titles can reach 60 FPS - just "most". Dunno if you want it to be absolute... (usually "console quality" is a mix of medium and high)
A "complete" system would be something like this, at about $445 sans ODD, SSD, and OS. Feel free to change parts out or remove things entirely if you want to use something else, or already have it.
Just a note: if you even do the occasional video transcode/encode, don't skimp on the CPU. Keep the i5, but you can downgrade to an i5-6500. Ignore the i5-6400, the runt of the i5s... And play around with your 950's clock speeds, too. They overclock like a champ... most Maxwell GPUs do. And don't get a "reference cooler" video card. Should be obvious if you're looking at an open-air design (exposed heat-sink fins on side)
(Suggestions: Asus STRIX, MSI Gaming (Twin Frozr), EVGA's whatever letters they use for their cooler, Gigabyte Windforce)
(People tend to not suggest AMD CPUs because of their IPC is very poor relative to Intel, and AMD GPUs because of... mind share. Though total heat is a problem, too, for case temps.)
Thank you for the answer! I just checked and a 950 would add another 6000 yens when I'm already 2-3000 over so I'm not too sure.
The remark about the G4400 is also duly noted but as I said I'm pretty sure I won't do any AAA gaming with that machine. Also, wouldn't buying a Skylake CPU+Mobo make it easy to upgrade down the line?
Last thing, there's something I totally forgot: I'm going to need a Wi-fi card in that thing. I looked for "Wifi PCI Card" and came up with this, from Intel, best seller on Amazon.
I have absolutely no clue: am I supposed to plug that in the Mobo and it'll just work? Is it even the right thing or am I more looking for something like that, with the antennas and all?
Thanks again!
I definitely want 60fps... that's why I'm thinking about a new PC instead of just settling for a PS4/XB1.
So what would likely be the bottleneck here: CPU? GPU? Or maybe both?
Great answer, by the way, thanks!
roadrunn3r
Member
For the recent AAA games you'd need both cpu and gpu to get 60 depending on the settings of course. While most games are not that cpu heavy, some definitely are (AC Syndicate can get almost 100% usage on an i5 4690 for example).
As for the gpu a GTX 950 (oc'd to 1400MHz) will get you close to 50% better performance than consoles in most games which means you can get 60fps IF you go below console settings. Otherwise if you don't want to lower them, a 970/390 is required and even then on some games you will not get a perfect 60 fps, it's just how it is. You are spending more than twice for a 970 compared to a 950 so that's your decision to make.
daninthemix
Member
Frame-rates can fluctuate a lot on modern titles, so thinking you'll get a constant 60fps will lead to disappointment.
Instead, you should get either a g-sync or freesync monitor (freesync is MUCH cheaper, so you'd need an AMD GPU).
That will result in a drastically better-than-console experience.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Yep, sticking with Skylake is a good idea anyway, and the Pentium is more than enough for a lot of things
There's no replacement for good per-core performance.You probably can safely stick with the 750 Ti, since you're pretty over budget at this point.
You might want the latter one.
All right... though you can safely get an i5-6500, unless the 6600 is too cheap to pass up on.
As for the video card, what do you value more, less heat generation, absolute DX12 support (FL12_1), CPU-bound and DX11 performance, frame times (NVIDIA) or absolute performance (AMD)?
As for the monitor thing, depends on if he already has a monitor. One thing I've found is that I'm probably not too sensitive to temporary slight drops in frame rates or hitches, really, and maybe you are, too. G-sync and FreeSync are nice to have, but to be honest, I don't feel the need to get a better monitor yet with my GTX 970 and a bog-standard 60 Hz Philips IPS monitor.
I think I prefer a locked 60 over variable anything, really, and I'd happily drop settings. And the kicker: with a GTX 970 or R9 390, you probably won't need to end up using settings that look worse than what an Xbox One or PS4 would produce, for rather obvious reasons.
Not regarding awful ports, of course, but they can't be helped even with all the hardware. If you disregard them, locked 60 FPS with a 970/390 should be attainable without ending up with worse image quality than a PS4.
The 99th percentile frame time and "time spent beyond ...ms" charts over at TechReport should help a lot.
That's too bad... :-\
Guess I'm used to Nintendo games nowadays, they've been trying to achieve a decently constant 60fps experience for a good while.
Anyway, problem is that adding a GSync (or equivalent tech) monitor would skyrocket the budget, which is already quite constrained... as a matter of fact I'd probably postpone the GPU purchase, going for a while with the integrated graphics alone, because right now I can't afford it. :-\
Less heat would likely be quite welcome... as I said I'm not planning to go over crazy detailed settings/resolution/framerates, I'm just targeting 720p/1080p modern gaming @60fps; unfortunately I'm not well versed anymore in PC hardware, so I'm not sure about the other actual differences you mention. :-\
Please note 720p is not a typo: right now the idea would be a comfy couch configuration, and that would involve my TV, which, as you probably have guessed by now, is not even FullHD. But I believe it's not a bad idea targeting 1080p, just in case I switch TV in the near future (not planned but who knows) or I simply go back to my current PC monitor (which is almost there, 1440x900 or something like that).
That would be... me (first part of the quote) and my goal (second part) basically. ^__^
Hi Guys, I am in Toronto, Canada
Since December I been having problems with The Witcher 3 and I have contacted the CD Projekt RED's Support who have advised me to reformat, reinstall drivers.
I have done 3 reformat/Fresh installs of Win7.
The game would just crash after startup without any errors.
The processor is an i7 4770k. This processor has been real shitty to me. On a custom water loop, which is TOP QUALITY... I was unable to archive steady over clocks.
So while trying to troubleshoot I am not sure why, I had a hunch and I went into bio and just disabled "HyperThreading"...and all of a sudden everything is working well.
I have steady Overclock at 4.4 ghz (Uncore at 4100 mhz) only using 1.26 volts (Not the best..I know). Before disabling HyperThreading I was hitting 1.4 volts for 4.4 or 4.5 ghz
My question is that I purchased the i7 4770k in April 2014 and I paid more for it just to get a top processor. How do I get it fixed or replaced by Intel. I have never done anything and I am not sure how to proceed.
By the way, just to be clear, The Witcher crashed at default settings of the Processor.
Since December I been having problems with The Witcher 3 and I have contacted the CD Projekt RED's Support who have advised me to reformat, reinstall drivers.
I have done 3 reformat/Fresh installs of Win7.
The game would just crash after startup without any errors.
The processor is an i7 4770k. This processor has been real shitty to me. On a custom water loop, which is TOP QUALITY... I was unable to archive steady over clocks.
So while trying to troubleshoot I am not sure why, I had a hunch and I went into bio and just disabled "HyperThreading"...and all of a sudden everything is working well.
I have steady Overclock at 4.4 ghz (Uncore at 4100 mhz) only using 1.26 volts (Not the best..I know). Before disabling HyperThreading I was hitting 1.4 volts for 4.4 or 4.5 ghz
My question is that I purchased the i7 4770k in April 2014 and I paid more for it just to get a top processor. How do I get it fixed or replaced by Intel. I have never done anything and I am not sure how to proceed.
By the way, just to be clear, The Witcher crashed at default settings of the Processor.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
What motherboard do you have and what is the version of the BIOS? You can install CPU-Z and see the motherboard tab for these info.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Yes, that is the latest BIOS. So there goes out the window one possible fix.
This particular problem with games crashing when HT is enabled seems to be quite random as I can see'. It seems to happen to random games with no conclusive fixes except turning off HT.
Well, try to contact the seller who sold you the CPU and explain, see if you can get a replacement. I highly doubt that though.
You said since December, I take it that it was working fine before that? Was it after a patch of something when it stopped working?
Well I Suppose as I think my Save was from Dec 5 and I think after that I was playing Black OPS on PS4 ... or Fallout on PC.
Since then I can only think of patch 1.12 if.. that came out during all this time.
I purchased the CPU from Canada Computers, I do not think they carry it anymore. I will have to do it through the vendor and I purchased Boxed unit and was informed that I will have 3 years warranty.
Yep, sticking with Skylake is a good idea anyway, and the Pentium is more than enough for a lot of things
You probably can safely stick with the 750 Ti, since you're pretty over budget at this point.
You might want the latter one.
Thanks for the continued support. Please bear with me just a little more lol
Basically, I am wondering if there's any reason a Mini PCI Express Wifi card like this Intel 7260 wouldn't work if I just plugged it into my Mobo, which seams to have two PCIe slots of the same size (PCIE2 and 3).
The Mobo specs on ASRock's site are saying "2 x PCI Express 2.0 x1 Slots" with no mention of Mini, but it looks the same to me, so I'm not too sure.
Bonus question: should I not care about speeds, would a small USB dongle like this suffice? I understand than a small USB chip like this would be all that's required to receive Wifi, correct?
Thanks again.
SmokedMeat
Gamer™
Hey guys, I'm looking to upgrade from a GTX960 to a better card. I'm patiently waiting for Pascal, but wondering what you guys thing of the R9 Fury Nano? I can snag one for just over $400, and it tops a 980. On top of that it's only 6", and with 4GB HBM, uses less wattage.
Worth checking out, or keep waiting?
Worth checking out, or keep waiting?
Cute Dragon Here
Member
No, mini PCIe isn't regular PCIe 1x. You can't plug that into your motherboard.
And, yes, USB dongles do work if performance isn't critical. They also work with things that don't have a PCIe slot.
Bloodember
Member
The Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo gets alot of praise in this thread, check that one out.
Just seen on the other page a t4. Would this be OK for my mobo and case as I'm looking for one that is a bit easier to install than the evo 212.
tenderbrew
Member
Got two SyncMaster P2450 monitors. Looking in 2016 to upgrade to some really great gaming monitors. Have a GTX 780. Any suggestions? Googled around, but can't really find a straight honest suggestion.
Run a prime95 at default settings. Playing games to test stability doesn't make sense.
Interrobang
Member
Quick question, guys -
Building a PC with parts suggested from here. I have a Gigabyte H110M-A motherboard and I'm connecting the case front-end wires to it. One of the wires is labeled AC'97 but I don't see a motherboard pin port for it. Does anyone know what this does? I have a Cooler Master N200 case and it has 3 USBs a mic and a headphone jack on the front.
Likewise, I bought a ASUS blu-Ray writer (bw-16D1HT) but I don't see a cord or anything to hook it up to the power supply. Was. I suppose to buy this cord separately? Same goes for my SSD (sandisk 120gb).
Thanks!
Building a PC with parts suggested from here. I have a Gigabyte H110M-A motherboard and I'm connecting the case front-end wires to it. One of the wires is labeled AC'97 but I don't see a motherboard pin port for it. Does anyone know what this does? I have a Cooler Master N200 case and it has 3 USBs a mic and a headphone jack on the front.
Likewise, I bought a ASUS blu-Ray writer (bw-16D1HT) but I don't see a cord or anything to hook it up to the power supply. Was. I suppose to buy this cord separately? Same goes for my SSD (sandisk 120gb).
Thanks!
Ok GAF I have been playing with idea of build my own PC for some time now. I've owned a laptop for 4ish years now, and I love the portability, but I'm trying to budget at the same time. i need a new rig for some of the newer games coming out here is what I have come up with I'm looking for tips/suggestions. I already own a OS, Monitor, peripherals to use, and I have decided to use a stock cooler
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($98.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock 970M PRO3 Micro ATX AM3+/AM3 Motherboard ($51.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Stealth 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba Product SeriesT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($162.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($53.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $562.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($98.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock 970M PRO3 Micro ATX AM3+/AM3 Motherboard ($51.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Stealth 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series
T01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($162.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($53.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $562.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Hey guys. I need help optimizing this $900 build (before taxes)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($204.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.40 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($55.99)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($45.28 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($66.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($336.62 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $943.24
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-13 13:29 EDT-0400
This is my 2nd attempt at building a gaming PC. Five years ago was my first attempt. I was left frustrated and disheartened because I didn't know how fix a very loud coil whine coming from both my PSU and GPU while playing games or watching HD videos. I replaced every part of my PC with different brands and types but the coil whine was still there. I have nearly $1000 of buyers remorse I stare at everyday since and almost lost hope at PC gaming because of coil whine. I REALLY hope this turns out better this time around.
This is what I'm looking at so far. I'm still debating whether to go Skylake (i5 6500) or Haswell (i5 4460). Skylake makes me a little upgradable in the future + DDR4, but Haswell helps out with my budget. I'm not ever looking into overclocking. Either generation will work for me.
I chose the EVGA 970 (Please help me pick the best EVGA version. Asus Strix is also an option.) because of mainly the power consumption, compared to the R9 390, and they have treated me great in the past. Plus my brother's build has one in it and works pretty well, cool and silent, under load. I also picked up a CPU cooler for a quieter build. I don't need dead silent, but do not want stock CPU cooler, blow dryer, loud. I prefer to buy my parts from Amazon because Prime.
I really want this one want this to work out and help rebuild my confidence in building PCs and PC Gaming. Thanks for any future advice.
Wish me luck. I will update when the PC is built.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($205.00)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper TX3 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (Purchased For $19.00)
Motherboard: Asus B150M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($76.43 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($35.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($67.00)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.00)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($334.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 100R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $932.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-21 20:01 EDT-0400
This ended up being my final build.
Super happy with it. No coil whine and all. Went a little over my budget, but didn't settle on parts. I don't want to post pics because I have horrible cable management.
Thanks for some of the advice, GAF!
roadrunn3r
Member
Ok GAF I have been playing with idea of build my own PC for some time now. I've owned a laptop for 4ish years now, and I love the portability, but I'm trying to budget at the same time. i need a new rig for some of the newer games coming out here is what I have come up with I'm looking for tips/suggestions. I already own a OS, Monitor, peripherals to use, and I have decided to use a stock cooler
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($98.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock 970M PRO3 Micro ATX AM3+/AM3 Motherboard ($51.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Stealth 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($162.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($53.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $562.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
This would be better in terms of performance and newer platform. (recent Skylake vs many years old AM3)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6400 2.7GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.00 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($44.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($62.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series
T01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($53.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $610.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-21 20:21 EDT-0400
The alternative would be an i3 6100 (still faster than that AMD 6300 in games).
PSU and motherboard choice can be optimized better probably so ask around.
Interrobang
Member
Guys, halp!
Completed my build. Everything is in and good to go, plug the computer in and hit power and nothing happens. Any ideas?
Completed my build. Everything is in and good to go, plug the computer in and hit power and nothing happens. Any ideas?
Dreams-Visions
Member
I can't think of anything that won't feel stupid when asking. Check the seating of all the PSU cables to the mobo and check those same connections to the PSU. Does the PSU have a toggle switch? Does the mobo have a light that indicates it's receiving power?
Interrobang
Member
It worked. I'm a dunce. Next question though: I have windows on a thumb drive and booted it up with it in one of the front panels, should something pop up to install?
roadrunn3r
Member
Yes it should but you have to set it up as the boot device in bios.
And put it on a back port USB 2.0 if possible. Sometimes mobos are funny about USB 3 drivers but it should be okay.
The drive needs to be bootable. If you used a Microsoft tool to install/copy Windows to USB then I'm sure it's fine. Just be sure to set the boot order or override the boot order so that the USB drive is the first drive that the computer tries to boot from.
Hi guys could you please tell me the best 1080p monitor to buy for around £150 in the UK? I tried to purchase the Asus VS239H-P as recommended in the OP but it's not available in the UK.
The only available monitor from amazon that pops up is this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00YQKTGR8/
Not sure if this is the same screen?
The only available monitor from amazon that pops up is this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00YQKTGR8/
Not sure if this is the same screen?
Interrobang
Member
Just getting a black screen. Not seeing any bios or anything pop up. For reference, I just bought the pieces, put it together and plugged it in. Did I skip a step?
roadrunn3r
Member
Press DEL to enter the bios when you start the PC and search for the "boot" section or something similar. You should find your USB stick listed there. set it up in the first slot.
- Status