Honestly?....not really. At 4.6 you should be good for a little while longer easily.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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Honestly?....not really. At 4.6 you should be good for a little while longer easily.
daninthemix
Member
New build is done and working great, and best of all SILENT!
A question: how do I undervolt a 6700k?
I'd like to bring temps down a bit if possible.
A question: how do I undervolt a 6700k?
I'd like to bring temps down a bit if possible.
Just apply a negative adaptive vcore offset.
Mad Season
Banned
hey guys - I bought corsair vengeance DDR4 2666 RAM but in the bios it says RAM FREQUENCY 2333 but to the right of that it also says 2666. My question is, is the frequency showing 2333 normal or should it say 2666 like it does to the right?
screenshot below
screenshot below
You need to go and apply the Xmp profile.
Mad Season
Banned
XMP is off in bios. just turn it on? why would it be off by default? any negatives for turning it on?
It's off by default because turning it on overclocks the ram to the 2666mhz pre defined setting. This isn't within intel specification.
There is no disadvantage to turning it on except if the cpu cannot handle it, in which case the system may crash under some work loads.
There is no harm in trying.
Ghekkus
Member
I'm going to piggy back on this question. When I built my system a few months ago I bought ram labeled as 2400. I set the XMP profile to 2400 but I also noticed it also had a profile for 2666. You think I could safely get away with trying the 2666?
(5820K CPU and x99 Sabertooth motherboard if it matters)
Mad Season
Banned
ok thanks. My processor is I7 6700K
No harm in trying.
Nobody can predict the outcome since every board and cpu work differently and each cpu's intel memory controller is of differing quality.
If it doesn't work, just revert the setting. You should do some stability testing however, that can be gaming, realbench, h.264 bench etc.
I was wrong the lead has 4 wires 2 black a red and yellow I think. It's built into the Inwin buc 101 case, I seen a youtube video with it pre-installed. So guessing it's for the power switch or top USB 3.0 ports? Not sure but it seem it's supposed to have a sata lead in it so all good. Thanks for the helpful replys as usual.
Sounds like molex.
Mad Season
Banned
Just got an msi gaming 7 mb. When updating the bios do I a e to grab them all in order or can I just download the latest which should contain the fixes from all the previous?
Guys, is there a final word on whether a good 650W power supply is actually enough for a single 390 graphics card?
(absolutely no dual GPU setup planned)
The OP states that a 750W is suggested when going above 370 / 290 X, but I keep reading conflicting reports about this. :-\
The manufacturer itself (I'm keeping an eye on an XFX model) lists a 750W power supply as a requirement, but I'm wondering if I'd be fine with this one which is XFX as well.
(absolutely no dual GPU setup planned)
The OP states that a 750W is suggested when going above 370 / 290 X, but I keep reading conflicting reports about this. :-\
The manufacturer itself (I'm keeping an eye on an XFX model) lists a 750W power supply as a requirement, but I'm wondering if I'd be fine with this one which is XFX as well.
daninthemix
Member
Ok I put it on Adaptive mode, set the Turbo voltage to 1.2v and the offset to minus .05, so voltages should be lower both idle and maxed.
Question: what's the lowest likely voltage a 6700k will handle at 4.2GHz, or is 1.2v probably it?
Question: what's the lowest likely voltage a 6700k will handle at 4.2GHz, or is 1.2v probably it?
hooijdonk17
Member
Current Rig: FX 6100 @ 4.1GHz, 16GB Ram, Radeon 7770
Which of the following 2 upgrade options is a better idea?
AMD FX 8300 (Prices on these really dropped lately)
AMD Radeon R7 370
I'm leaning towards a GPU upgrade, I think the OC'ed 6100 should carry me for a year or so yet.. I mostly play last generation's PC ports still, but would settle for playing current gen games at mid quality levels and 1080p..
Which of the following 2 upgrade options is a better idea?
AMD FX 8300 (Prices on these really dropped lately)
AMD Radeon R7 370
I'm leaning towards a GPU upgrade, I think the OC'ed 6100 should carry me for a year or so yet.. I mostly play last generation's PC ports still, but would settle for playing current gen games at mid quality levels and 1080p..
Nobody can answer that, you have to try it and stability test (prime95 etc)
Kudo
Member
Could a Windows update cause slow boot times? I started noticing this few days ago and it would match with "Windows 10 Version 1511 (KB3140741)" that was installed on 23.3.
Takes me 20 seconds to get into Windows with Z170-A and Samsung EVO 850. BIOS part is the slow one, once I get to the rolling stones it goes fast but the part where I can press DEL for BIOS is slow.
I also got USB DAC/AMP not so long ago, maybe I just didn't notice it earlier and it could be USB being slow or some issue there?
Takes me 20 seconds to get into Windows with Z170-A and Samsung EVO 850. BIOS part is the slow one, once I get to the rolling stones it goes fast but the part where I can press DEL for BIOS is slow.
I also got USB DAC/AMP not so long ago, maybe I just didn't notice it earlier and it could be USB being slow or some issue there?
650W is fine. The 750W is towards expansion and minimal price difference (Usually $10 for a better power usage curve at load and more purchase options).
GPU no question
Is there a fast boot/quick boot setting you can enable? Sometimes quiet boot or a skip logo option / test memory option can be there also.
Loading new services or programs can slow down startup for sure. My PC is an abomination.
If it's really long in the BIOS phase try running a memory test, check your HDD SMART health, and it could be a lot of other various things like power or motherboard. But I'd run CCleaner first and do the above before thinking it's hardware.
roadrunn3r
Member
Nope a Windows update should not change loading times especially during the boot when the operating system hasn't even loaded yet. I had a similar issue once and it was a faulty sata cable so hard disk related. Other things to try is disconnect any USB peripherals and see if it fixes the problem.
Ah I see my case has a top port which is for a SSD i think so it doesn't really matter if I connected this molex to a sata lead then. Like I said in a previous post was worried if I connected everything OK when I changed my PSU seems I have. Thanks.
Kudo
Member
Fast Boot is already enabled. I've had this computer for 4-5 months now so I wouldn't think it's faulty SATA cable?
Tried disconnecting all USBs but it gave me "No keyboard detected" warning which screw my counting up, sigh.
Guess I'll try once again with only keyboard, wish me luck.. Then again if it's the USB there's nothing I can really do as all of them are taken and important. I only have 2 USB2.0 and DAC and Bluetooth needs those, keyboard and mice go to USB3.0 which could probably cause some issues with the keyboard as it uses one of those cheap chinese NKRO USB chips..
Maybe I'll just live with it and if it's hardware I'm sure it'll poke its nose harder when things start breaking (Hope not).
I would question both upgrades. The GPU upgrade is such a minor one that I personally don't really see the vlue in doing so.
Thanks!
roadrunn3r
Member
One last thing you could try is to unplug all the SATA cables and plug them back in. (even the DVD drive)
Kudo
Member
No DVD drive.
Tried with keyboard only and timed 14s compared to the normal 20s, don't know if it was just pure chance, plugged DAC, bluetooth and mice back in, changed keyboard to USB3 and it was back to 20s ish.
Anandtech reports 15 seconds non-UEFI boot time (I'm using UEFI), while The Tech Report says:
They mention Windows 8.1 boot time so I assume it's UEFI.
I guess I'll just live with it, I don't want to open the case and fiddle around with SATA cables, those could be the reason but too much hassle. Got several HDDs so if there's faulty cable connected to one it would take too long to solve it, if it starts causing any other issues than slow boot then I'll have to do it though.
Overall this mobo doesn't seem to be the fastest booter out there. Checking newegg someone reports 20-30s boot and Asus tells him to do the following:
Should I try this as well or just give it a rest and try not to think about it? I know my Post Delay Time is set to 3 sec, no idea about the others.
Thanks for the help.
Course it is, but even an i5 is, define your meaning of multi tasking.
Dreams-Visions
Member
G502 was meant for palm. I love mine. Only con is that it's on the heavier side.
That's some gaming PC alright.
CrashPrime
Member
Speakers for a computer.
I already have a closed back headphone for gaming sessions when I need both isolation and also do not want to leak sound. Very happy with my JDM JVC SZ-1000. I don't have a lot of positional requirements when gaming (not a competitive online FPS guy) so I appreciate the tight bass in exchange for the more narrow soundstage.
I am looking at replacing my 13-year old (why am I so old) Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 setup. The knob on the control speaker has been giving me lip for the better half of those 13-years and I want to move up. I have narrowed down my choices.
No amp:
KRK Rokit 5's - $300/pair no amp.
JBL LSR305 - $300/pair no amp.
Amp:
ELAC B5 - $230/pair + amp.
Fluance SX6 - $120/pair + amp.
Wildcard:
JBL Studio 530 - $600/pair + amp.
I currently have a Harman Kardon AVR1700 which I would be willing to integrate into my desktop setup to avoid needing a DAC (I will just go optical out of the PC), and to replace my FiiO portable headphone amp (making it just used for portable) and it also claims 100w RMS * 2 for stereo setups. Should be plenty powerful.
The other option would be an SMSL sAp II + SMSL SA50 to keep an AVR off my desk (Keeping in mind I do have the room, its a very large desk).
I am looking for near field performance. The reason for my wildcard is I have seen a youtuber call the JBL 530 the best speaker he's heard and while it is just an amature youtuber (Zeos) he has reviewed hundreds of other products so I trust that he marks it very high on his list.
Opinions?
I already have a closed back headphone for gaming sessions when I need both isolation and also do not want to leak sound. Very happy with my JDM JVC SZ-1000. I don't have a lot of positional requirements when gaming (not a competitive online FPS guy) so I appreciate the tight bass in exchange for the more narrow soundstage.
I am looking at replacing my 13-year old (why am I so old) Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 setup. The knob on the control speaker has been giving me lip for the better half of those 13-years and I want to move up. I have narrowed down my choices.
No amp:
KRK Rokit 5's - $300/pair no amp.
JBL LSR305 - $300/pair no amp.
Amp:
ELAC B5 - $230/pair + amp.
Fluance SX6 - $120/pair + amp.
Wildcard:
JBL Studio 530 - $600/pair + amp.
I currently have a Harman Kardon AVR1700 which I would be willing to integrate into my desktop setup to avoid needing a DAC (I will just go optical out of the PC), and to replace my FiiO portable headphone amp (making it just used for portable) and it also claims 100w RMS * 2 for stereo setups. Should be plenty powerful.
The other option would be an SMSL sAp II + SMSL SA50 to keep an AVR off my desk (Keeping in mind I do have the room, its a very large desk).
I am looking for near field performance. The reason for my wildcard is I have seen a youtuber call the JBL 530 the best speaker he's heard and while it is just an amature youtuber (Zeos) he has reviewed hundreds of other products so I trust that he marks it very high on his list.
Opinions?
That 909 is so beautiful. Too bad I dont want such a large case.
I went and bought the 901 last week for an upcoming build.
2nd hand pair of bowers & wilkins?
qa_engineer
Member
The 5820K is an intel K part meant for OC, as is the Asus Sabertooth mobo so both should be fine. However, you need to read the documentation supplied with the mobo to determine if the ram you bought is officially supported. Asus supplies this info on both the website and packed inside the box. As for the XMP profile, this is the suggested overclock speed the ram was designed to run at.
I have a similar setup as you. 5820K + ASUS X99 PRO USB 3.1 + Corsair DDR4 but with an XMP profile for 3000mhz and it runs absolutely fine. With the XMP settings the BCLK is increased from 100 to 125 with a ratio of 24. I can push the ratio to 35 without any adjustments to voltages and its rock solid 24 hours a day.
4.4ghz on 6 cores + 16gbs of DDR4 3000mhz memory. Skylake who?
Edit: TL;DR if the ram is officially supported by the mobo then either XMP profile should be as well. You'll need to monitor your system for excessive heat or crashes, but should be fine.
CrashPrime
Member
What model?
Okay so I've posted in here a few times over the last month. I think I am going to finally pull the trigger on my first PC and build. I am not bothered about AAA new games.
PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/xjMQ8d
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/xjMQ8d/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor (£96.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£62.28 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£31.49 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£34.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£54.98 @ Novatech)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Superclocked Video Card (£99.49 @ Dabs)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1500 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£39.50 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (£39.48 @ Ebuyer)
Total: £459.19
If I were able to squeeze another £50 in what area should I change or add to?
I have little knowledge of this stuff, but the motherboard seems good - supports good DDR4 ram and most everything else seems solid. Worth adding a cooler to this?
PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/xjMQ8d
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/xjMQ8d/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor (£96.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£62.28 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£31.49 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£34.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£54.98 @ Novatech)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Superclocked Video Card (£99.49 @ Dabs)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1500 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£39.50 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (£39.48 @ Ebuyer)
Total: £459.19
If I were able to squeeze another £50 in what area should I change or add to?
I have little knowledge of this stuff, but the motherboard seems good - supports good DDR4 ram and most everything else seems solid. Worth adding a cooler to this?
qa_engineer
Member
You could upgrade the video card to something a bit more modern and faster. R9 380 can be had for the amount you're asking I believe.
That card might be out of my budget what about a GTX 950?
Phenomenal Flea
Member
Cross-posting from the March Pickup thread, but figured it was relevant here, too.
With about four years of good service, my laptop finally had the last straw. So with that, I decided it was high time for me to build another desktop. This is the second build I made. The last one was about . . . eight years ago?
I've been fantasizing of a mini-itx build for some time, but ended up putting it in a bigger case, because I liked the Air 240's design. I made a couple rookie mistakes in the process, such as having to unscrew the motherboard out of the case because I forgot to put on the backplate for the watercooler, as well as installing the watercooler the wrong way so the RAM blocks the USB port for the control (you'll also have noticed I bought arctic ice, even though the h100i comes with thermal paste pre-applied.
Nevertheless, I was truly relieved when it successfully booted on the first try. I was shocked when I saw how quick it was to boot. I've never had an SSD before!
I hope this build lasts me a long time! I tried to opt for parts that were going to last me a long time, but I decided to compromise on the graphics card. I went with the 970 instead of something newer, because that was expensive enough as it was, I felt, and those pascal cards are right around the corner. At any rate, that Ukrainian Rise of the Tomb Raider holds up really nicely on it, so that's good enough for me for the time being! One thing I did notice when I was booting up various games I had to put my new build through its paces was that my graphics card whistles when loading GTAIV. The loading screens also have weird tearing artifacty things, and it makes me worry that I'm damaging my graphics card by playing it . . . I've heard that game is horribly unoptimized.
With about four years of good service, my laptop finally had the last straw. So with that, I decided it was high time for me to build another desktop. This is the second build I made. The last one was about . . . eight years ago?
I've been fantasizing of a mini-itx build for some time, but ended up putting it in a bigger case, because I liked the Air 240's design. I made a couple rookie mistakes in the process, such as having to unscrew the motherboard out of the case because I forgot to put on the backplate for the watercooler, as well as installing the watercooler the wrong way so the RAM blocks the USB port for the control (you'll also have noticed I bought arctic ice, even though the h100i comes with thermal paste pre-applied.
Nevertheless, I was truly relieved when it successfully booted on the first try. I was shocked when I saw how quick it was to boot. I've never had an SSD before!
I hope this build lasts me a long time! I tried to opt for parts that were going to last me a long time, but I decided to compromise on the graphics card. I went with the 970 instead of something newer, because that was expensive enough as it was, I felt, and those pascal cards are right around the corner. At any rate, that Ukrainian Rise of the Tomb Raider holds up really nicely on it, so that's good enough for me for the time being! One thing I did notice when I was booting up various games I had to put my new build through its paces was that my graphics card whistles when loading GTAIV. The loading screens also have weird tearing artifacty things, and it makes me worry that I'm damaging my graphics card by playing it . . . I've heard that game is horribly unoptimized.
qa_engineer
Member
http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-950-vs-Nvidia-GTX-750-Ti/3510vs2187
Also a very good option. Go for it, you'll feel better knowing you had a somewhat newer GPU in your rig.
Judging by the parts you'll be good for a couple of years assuming you don't mind playing at the highest settings locked at 60fps. The problem with PC gaming is that you'll always have the upgrade itch that needs to be scratched. Good call on not getting a high end card right away, its not a good time to invest in a high end card given Polaris and Pascal are right around the corner. Good luck and enjoy.
If you dropped the HDD down to 1TB you could fit an R9 380 in there.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor (£96.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£62.28 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£31.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£34.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£37.98 @ Novatech)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 380 4GB Double Dissipation Video Card (£159.98 @ Novatech)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1500 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£39.50 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£44.37 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £508.07
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-25 15:45 GMT+0000
Collateral22
Member
All my parts arrived bar my GPU, which was delayed due to stock issues. Will be out to me in two weeks. Am I okay to build it all now and set it up and then just install the GPU when it arrives? Do I just install the drivers, take the PC apart and then install the GPU into the Mobo?
qa_engineer
Member
Yep. there really isn't anything to take apar per se. If it doesn't POST you would simply have to disconnect the power, remove ram and cpu etc. (you probably won't have to). The mobo can remain attached to your case for that.
Interrobang
Member
I'm having 2 new issues that I can't resolve after much Googling.
1) I have a monitor with internal speakers, but no sound is coming out. I have a Acer G237HL with an HDMI going from the monitor to the GPU. I check all drivers and they're all up-to-date. I checked sound and audio devices in device manager and everything says its working. I tried troubleshooting and it says there's no problem. When I do a test, the speaker bar moves up and down as if sound is coming out, but there is no audio. Anyone know what's wrong?
2) My mouse goes slightly off-screen on the bottom and right-hand side of the monitor. I still see it there, so it's not a dual screen issue, but it goes off the screen just enough to go past the boundaries. I tried monitor aspect ratio, AMD command center everything, nothing seems to fix it. Help?
1) I have a monitor with internal speakers, but no sound is coming out. I have a Acer G237HL with an HDMI going from the monitor to the GPU. I check all drivers and they're all up-to-date. I checked sound and audio devices in device manager and everything says its working. I tried troubleshooting and it says there's no problem. When I do a test, the speaker bar moves up and down as if sound is coming out, but there is no audio. Anyone know what's wrong?
2) My mouse goes slightly off-screen on the bottom and right-hand side of the monitor. I still see it there, so it's not a dual screen issue, but it goes off the screen just enough to go past the boundaries. I tried monitor aspect ratio, AMD command center everything, nothing seems to fix it. Help?
That Dude John
Member
Follow up question, whats my best route for install Windows 10? The build I am making will not have a CD drive.
32 bit or 64?
Home or pro?
Buy a USB with windows 10 or buy 7 / 8 then free upgrade after initial setup is complete?
Directly from MS store or somewhere like Amazon?
Honestly this is one of the most confusing parts of the entire build for me!
32 bit or 64?
Home or pro?
Buy a USB with windows 10 or buy 7 / 8 then free upgrade after initial setup is complete?
Directly from MS store or somewhere like Amazon?
Honestly this is one of the most confusing parts of the entire build for me!
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