If you don't plan on overclocking, definitely go for the i5 6400 for a little extra.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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If you don't plan on overclocking, definitely go for the i5 6400 for a little extra.
Thanks
I went rummaging through my old boxes to find one, and i got it. Almost went and bought one.''crisis averted.
Stratosphere
Member
This is my first attempt for my new PC build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/RVgVrH
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor - $363.94
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler - $24.89
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard - $217.99
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory - $62.99
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive - $217.97
Case : Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case - $119.99
Power Supply: Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply - $139.99
I already have a 970 to go in this rig. My goal is to have a semi-high end PC that is somewhat future-proof.
Is this a bit overkill if I don't plan to do any overclocking or sli/water-cooled setups? If so, how can I bring it down a bit while remaining as future-proof as possible?
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor - $363.94
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler - $24.89
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard - $217.99
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory - $62.99
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive - $217.97
Case : Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case - $119.99
Power Supply: Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply - $139.99
I already have a 970 to go in this rig. My goal is to have a semi-high end PC that is somewhat future-proof.
Is this a bit overkill if I don't plan to do any overclocking or sli/water-cooled setups? If so, how can I bring it down a bit while remaining as future-proof as possible?
Is this a purely gaming build? Are you also planning on getting into video editing? A bit overkill if it's mostly for gaming, I think. You can get a cheaper processor (6700 non-k or go for an i5), cheaper motherboard if you're not using most of the features, 16GB of RAM over 32GB, cheaper SSD such as the Samsung EVO line, and even a gold rated power supply. You can easily save $200+.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($342.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($133.55 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($108.35 @ Amazon)
Total: $968.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-28 00:23 EDT-0400
Stratosphere
Member
Thanks for the advice! Other than gaming, I plan to eventually use it as a HTPC. I'm not sure what that entails yet as I have never done it before. No video editing.
I already bumped down the Memory to 16GB, and was considering getting an i5 with a cheaper Z170 mobo. Are EVGA PSU's good? I've always had Corsair and they have treated me well.
You could probably get it even cheaper than that
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($324.99 @ Best Buy)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($44.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($64.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.95 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($99.89 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $770.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-28 00:37 EDT-0400
How about this build?
The motherboard is a lot cheaper but is pretty basic and doesn't offer any SLI capabilities, but does do DDR4 (2 slots only, 16gb ram is plenty though) and skylake.
I dropped the cooler.
I went for a 250gb SSD and 2TB regular hard drive for lots of gaming storage. (I've found 1tb wasn't enough for me after a year).
You can get a 650W power supply that will power up just about any Nvidia card out at the moment including a Titan X. It'll be fine for a 970. No SLI later though.
Choose your own case to suit.
NOTE: I think the motherboard only supports 2133/2400Mhz memory, and not the faster 3200mhz in the previous build.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Pentium D? Um... the stock cooler won't fit on the motherboard holes for the cooler, I think.
A CM TX3 is dirt cheap, though. Why not buy one?
It's a massive upgrade. You don't want to be caught with a Pentium 4 in 2016. At least, not something with its IPC. Remember to get new RAM and CHECK THE PSU' 12V rail
Bloodember
Member
Sounds like its over heating. Check to make sure the fans on it are all running correctly.
SMOK3Y
Generous Member
Its a Intel® Pentium® Processor E5400
(2M Cache, 2.70 GHz, 800 MHz FSB)
So im thinking it's a bit sad lol this PC aint mine its family i live with mine IS i7 4770k water cooled with a now old EVGA GTX TITAN but i gave it to the daughter
Have you considered ultra wide monitors? Personally, that's what I'd upgrade to.
Interrobang
Member
I just dug up a bunch of old Windows 95' compatible discs (SimCity 2000 Special Edition, Max Payne, Half-Life 2, etc.) and I tried throwing them into my new Windows 10 PC, but got a "This app can't be used on your computer" message. Is there anyway to get these to work? Do I have to purchase new CD keys if I only have the discs?
Thanks!
Thanks!
No not really. What are the benefits of that?
Half life 2 required steam no matter what anyway. Entering the CD Key into steam would give you ownership of the game and could just download it.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Ah, you mean one of these Core 2-based Pentiums. That's not as bad, but is still going to be smoked by the 2500K. Still likely to need a new CPU cooler.
Here's a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BgKptbCj_jc
21*9 monitors are great for production or multitasking in general, and games look gorgeous on them.
Dreams-Visions
Member
Hey guys, I'm thinking it may be fun to OC my CPU a bit, but I don't think my stock cooler will be sufficient for the task. It runs in the 40C range idle and around 80C under load. I'd assume it would get too hot if tuned higher, but BIOS-based CPU overclocking is new to me.
If my assumption that air cooling with my stock cooler would be a poor move, would Corsair cooler be ideal, or is there a different product you guys might recommend? How does that circular shape of the bottom interface with the square shape of the CPU chips?
edit: can anyone help me understand the differences between the H50, H55, and H60? They're all roughly the same price...
If my assumption that air cooling with my stock cooler would be a poor move, would Corsair cooler be ideal, or is there a different product you guys might recommend? How does that circular shape of the bottom interface with the square shape of the CPU chips?
edit: can anyone help me understand the differences between the H50, H55, and H60? They're all roughly the same price...
Eh think I would rather go with a 4k.
SMOK3Y
Generous Member
Ya tbh that i5 im chucking in for them back when I was running it with aftermarket air cooler it ran at 5ghz no problem just with multiplier it was a good chip
Interrobang
Member
I just have the discs, no CD key unfortunately. Guess I threw out the box. Should I consider them unusable?
I have no idea about the error that win 10 is giving but HL2 specifically would need a cd key. Even day 1 that game required a steam account.
afternoon delight
Member
Does anyone have a handy list of televisions recommended as monitors, or is it just important to consider input lag and screen material (LCD, plasma, etc.) ?
Hey guys, I need some input on an Haswell, i7 4770k
at 1.234 volts I am hitting 4300 mhz on the Core and 4200 Uncore.
"Eventual" Voltage is 1.810 (Un-tweaked)
2400 mhz Ram @ 1.65 volts seem stable.
I am trying to crash the system with running multiple stress tests and the Voltage is in Manual Mode.
Temperatures are at 79-81 Deg max under full load, I am using custom loop water cooling.
I would love to hit 4.5 or 4.6 Ghz but while testing I was able to achieve 4.5 Ghz @ 1.346875 volts (Yes I wrote is down), I can't get Uncore or the Rams to be stable. The over clocking gave me a headache.
Any suggestions, do 200 mhz make a big difference ?
at 1.234 volts I am hitting 4300 mhz on the Core and 4200 Uncore.
"Eventual" Voltage is 1.810 (Un-tweaked)
2400 mhz Ram @ 1.65 volts seem stable.
I am trying to crash the system with running multiple stress tests and the Voltage is in Manual Mode.
Temperatures are at 79-81 Deg max under full load, I am using custom loop water cooling.
I would love to hit 4.5 or 4.6 Ghz but while testing I was able to achieve 4.5 Ghz @ 1.346875 volts (Yes I wrote is down), I can't get Uncore or the Rams to be stable. The over clocking gave me a headache.
Any suggestions, do 200 mhz make a big difference ?
MikeE21286
Member
I would get this SSD instead.
500GB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA III Solid State Drive
http://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/fp/185794
500gb SSD for only $30 more. Can store more games on the SSD that way.
Since there's not a dedicated HTPC thread, I'm posting this here. I want to pair my new 4K TV with a HTPC to take advantage of the higher resolution wherever possible. Looking at a build with the following:
i5-6500
ASRock H97M mITX mobo
SilverStone RVZ02B-W Raven case w/ SS 500w matching PSU
Corsair 16GB DDR4 memory kit
Blu-ray drive
256GB Sandisk Extreme Pro (Sandisk just replaced my failed Extreme drive with this brand new Pro, but I had already bought a new Samsung Pro drive months ago).
But I'm not quite sure what to do for a GPU. I'll be targeting 4K@30 fps, since my Vizio's 60hz input doesn't support film mode. This case does support full-size GPUs. I don't want something too noisy but I'd like to get Final Fantasy XIV, Dark Souls 3, and a few other games that are similarly less-demanding in 4K. I think I'll be stuck running the Witcher 3 and the Division in 1080p60.
i5-6500
ASRock H97M mITX mobo
SilverStone RVZ02B-W Raven case w/ SS 500w matching PSU
Corsair 16GB DDR4 memory kit
Blu-ray drive
256GB Sandisk Extreme Pro (Sandisk just replaced my failed Extreme drive with this brand new Pro, but I had already bought a new Samsung Pro drive months ago).
But I'm not quite sure what to do for a GPU. I'll be targeting 4K@30 fps, since my Vizio's 60hz input doesn't support film mode. This case does support full-size GPUs. I don't want something too noisy but I'd like to get Final Fantasy XIV, Dark Souls 3, and a few other games that are similarly less-demanding in 4K. I think I'll be stuck running the Witcher 3 and the Division in 1080p60.
In terms of power the PSU is plenty. It would probably suffice for any current GPU, and upcoming 14/16nm cards are likely to be quite a bit less power-hungry than current cards, so it should be good for everything bar SLI/Crossfire. In fact a 550W would probably cover everything but the highest-end next-gen cards, depending on what kind of card you expect to upgrade to. I can't say anything about the PSU itself, as I don't keep up to date on these things, but 80 Plus Gold certification would generally indicate that it's a good piece of kit.
For cases it's very much a personal thing. I like Fractal Design cases, but that's an aesthetic decision as much as anything else. Check out a few reviews if you're concerned about build quality/ease of use/etc.
I won't ever be interested in a dual GPU setup. In that case, I may be able to save quite a bit of money, if I go for a cheaper PSU. How much worse stuff can I expect from Bronze as opposed to Gold for the same wattage? From what little I googled, Gold is worth it only if you are planning to have the PC on many many hours a day, which (unfortunately) I can't do. I can save 40 euros if I go for a Bronze 600W of the same brand.
xplicitone
Member
My current PC:
OS: Windows 10 64-bit
CPU: i7-2600K Sandy Bridge
RAM: CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000).
Would these ram sticks benefit me? I play games on 1440p if that matters
32GB (2x16GB) G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series DDR4 2400 Desktop Memory
OS: Windows 10 64-bit
CPU: i7-2600K Sandy Bridge
RAM: CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000).
Would these ram sticks benefit me? I play games on 1440p if that matters
32GB (2x16GB) G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series DDR4 2400 Desktop Memory
Pop-O-Matic
Banned
You can't use DDR4 on Sandy Bridge.
Bronze GPUs will generally be a little louder (less efficient means more heat means fans have to run faster). Other than that it should still do the job. The Watt rating quoted on GPUs is the output into the PC (rather than what it's drawing from the wall), so a 600W Bronze PSU should put out the same power as a 600W Gold or Platinum model, although it'll draw a bit more power from the wall when doing so.
What's film mode, and how important is it to you?
I was going to say a 980 or 980Ti as AMD's cards don't support HDMI 2.0 (which means they're limited to 30Hz when running 4K over HDMI). If you are hard limited to 30Hz on the TV, though, the Fury and Fury X may be worth looking at. With current drivers they typically outperform their Nvidia equivalents at 4K on stock clocks (Fury X slightly over 980Ti and Fury by quite a bit over 980).
That 500W PSU will be a sticking point, though, ruling out 980Ti, Fury and Fury X. You'd probably be able to manage a 980 or a Fury Nano (which is about the same price as the Fury and only ever so slightly less performance), but a more powerful PSU would give you a lot more breathing room if you're looking at 4K.
xplicitone
Member
Damnit!!! Thanks. I'm glad I asked then.
We've got one of these set up at work running Star Wars Battlefront and it looks freaking amazing. First time I'd seen a 21:9 monitor in the flesh and hoooo boy, think I'll save up for a similar model and retire my two 24" monitors.
As I said before, drop the ram to 1866mhz and focus on the CPU OC.
I may or may not have purchased that exact monitor six hours ago...
< _ <
> _ >
< _ >
IT WAS ON SALE! $100 OFF!
Ahem... Carry on.
xplicitone
Member
I'm sad that Sandy Bridge can't use DDR4 ram. So my options are to basically get a better version of DDR3 ram or a new CPU and mobo lol. I have this computer since 2011 so I guess it makes sense.
Anyone have recommendations on good DDR3 ram?
My current: CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000
Maybe something like this?
G.SKILL TridentX Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model F3-2400C10D-16GTX , http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-231-589
I found.
Anyone have recommendations on good DDR3 ram?
My current: CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000
Maybe something like this?
G.SKILL TridentX Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model F3-2400C10D-16GTX , http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-231-589
I found.
That should be fine, but if you look around you should find some high quality 16GBs DIMMs for dirt cheap now days.
Film mode allows the correct display of 24 fps cinematic content without judder. It's important because I was going to use my HTPC to play Blu-rays. Although now I see UHD Blu-ray has no release schedule on PC, so that sucks.
I'm an idiot and I overlooked the 600W SilverStone small form factor PSU, so that opens up the bigger GPUs. Thanks for those Fury X benchmarks. I'm running a 980 Ti on my desktop and it's been great, but I could consider Fury... but the Fury X cooling unit will not fit in such a small enclosure. One thing I might do is take my 980 Ti, which is reference since I bought it at the card's launch, and put it in my HTPC. Then I'll get a new card (Fury X? custom 980 Ti?) for my desktop.
Thanks for the advice.
BolognaOni
Member
Gold efficiency requirements are 5% more than bronze (87-90% vs. 82-85%). So, back of the envelope, with a 600W power supply, if you're paying .2 euro a kWh, it would take about 4700 hours of max power gaming to pay back the additional 40 euro upfront. If you're not using the full power, it may be even longer.
You will have to dissipate an additional ~40W of power under load. In reliability terms, PSU quality is not necessarily related to 80+ rating. Reputable brands should be fine at bronze or gold rating.
HoodWinked
Member
got a bit of an annoying issue. My PSU fan revs up to full speed for about a second then down to normal speed.
this happens on boot or wake from standby. is there anyway i can stop this from happening? does this occur because of the PSU or the motherboard or something else?
i googled a bit and know its probably a normal sequence but i think thats just unacceptable and noticed some computers dont do this so there has to be a way to stop this annoying shit.
its a corsair TX650 v3 which isnt a rebranded seasonic
this happens on boot or wake from standby. is there anyway i can stop this from happening? does this occur because of the PSU or the motherboard or something else?
i googled a bit and know its probably a normal sequence but i think thats just unacceptable and noticed some computers dont do this so there has to be a way to stop this annoying shit.
its a corsair TX650 v3 which isnt a rebranded seasonic
I went all in and got the 256GB M.2 Samsung 950 Pro, and the Corsair SF600 finally arrived. Now all that's left is that 4TB Toshiba HDD.
PCPartpicker List
PCPartpicker List
- CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
- CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS8900 Quiet CPU Cooler
- Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
- Memory: Kingston Savage 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
- Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Toshiba 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive - Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 Nano 4GB Video Card
- Case: Silverstone RVZ02B HTPC Case
- Power Supply: Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply
- Optical Drive: Panasonic ​​​UJ240 6x​ ​B​lu-ray​ B​ur​ner ​BD-​RE/​8x​ DVD​±RW
deal alert if you're looking for a ssd. 500gb samsung evo for $110
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301442365826
$25 off w/ coupon code CSPRING25OFF125 = $109.99. THe promo code is only available to use for a few hours so get one while you can
normally these have been around for $150. code is only valid for 4 hours or so
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301442365826
$25 off w/ coupon code CSPRING25OFF125 = $109.99. THe promo code is only available to use for a few hours so get one while you can
normally these have been around for $150. code is only valid for 4 hours or so
Well, if you can use a HDMI 2.0 port I'd recommend sticking with the 980Ti then. Even if its performance is ever so slightly lower than Fury X at 4K you'll still end up with a better experience. Even if you're playing games at 30fps or below, running it through a 60Hz interface means there are more "steps" as it drops below 30fps. On a HDMI 1.4 connection, the next step down from 30Hz is 15Hz, and then 10Hz, whereas on a HDMI 2.0 connection you can transmit at 20Hz, 15Hz and 12Hz. Obviously you don't want to drop down below 30fps often, but a drop to 20fps is less noticeable than a drop to 15.
Can't really make any concrete recommendations on the desktop. What games will you be playing? What resolution? Gsync or Freesnyc? Willing to wait for Polaris/Pascal? Overclocking?
Really good deal. Maybe all time low for those.
drhankmccoyphd
Member
Are there any good deals for 1-2TB hard drives? Just looking for something to store the games/bluray rips overflow from my evo 500gb.
Stratosphere
Member
Are there any good threads/posts on couch HTPC/Gaming setups? I'd really like to do this in my new house and could use some guidance/education.
I am also looking into a SteamLink solution, but it would require wireless with my current setup (Which I have heard is hit or miss). Would powerline adapters make any difference for this?
I am also looking into a SteamLink solution, but it would require wireless with my current setup (Which I have heard is hit or miss). Would powerline adapters make any difference for this?
Nostremitus
Member
I got two of these in the mail yesterday. So far, so good. Transferring from my SSD to this drive was >100MB/S.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSLDRC/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Mad Season
Banned
someone is offering to buy my ASUS Maximus GENE Z IV MB and I5 2500K together for $150. good deal?
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