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[EsotericManiac]

I have a dell XPS 435 MT desktop with a 7800 graphics card. I only want to use this PC to stream on (not actually play games on)

I don't think the 4gigs of RAM will cut it. I think it would be in my best interest to upgrade.

What's a fairly cheap recommendation and, given it's purpose, what would do the job well?

I'm mainly just going to go capture card (legato hd 60) into it, then into OBS to stream

thanks in advance

 

[Subtervotion]

If your systems supports it, you can use a XMP profile for your RAM.. you can go to your bios settings and check it. Anyway, it doesn't make much difference in gaming.

Ok. Thanks.

 

[Bolivar687]

I finally got to play my first games on my new build.

Skyrim and L4D2. I had cam running and both ran at 60FPS.. I thought I would get much more than this? I played Skyrim on auto settings and L4D2 via nivida GE optimised settings

I believe Skyrim's VSync is buried in an ini and caps the frame rate at 60. You don't want to go too far beyond that anyway because the game speed and physics are tied to 60fps and everything start going haywire if you go too far beyond it.

72fps seems to still be within the acceptable range. I cap it there with Double Vsync through Radeon Pro on my 144Hz monitor and it's ridiculously smooth.

 

[LordAlu]

I didn't realize it until now but I was planning a DDR3 system, but this one seems to be more future oriented. Though it's also $250 more before you attach a 970 to it and tax and shipping.. besides removing the SSD (which saves $115) is there anything else I could do to save some money without hurting things too much?

I'm planning to build a rig, sans GPU and reusing my current case, as best I can for as cheap as I can so I can splurge on a GPU in 6-12 months. I can reuse my current GPU, which sucks, so it won't feel like a total waste.

FYI, I'm in Canada. As is, with SSD, this runs $1259.98 pre-tax/shipping on newegg.ca. $1144.99 without which might be doable.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($476.00 @ Amazon Canada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($37.98 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($139.88 @ Canada Computers)
Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($46.30 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ NCIX)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.99 @ Canada Computers)
Case: Fractal Design Core 2300 ATX Mid Tower Case ($57.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $993.12
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-06 10:58 EDT-0400

I've dropped the board quality down slightly, gone down to 8GB RAM for now, went from a 250GB SSD to a 120GB (you really don't want to get rid of the SSD) and 2TB HDD to 1TB, used a cheaper case and a 650W PSU. Get Windows off Reddit for $25.

I finally got to play my first games on my new build.

Skyrim and L4D2. I had cam running and both ran at 60FPS.. I thought I would get much more than this? I played Skyrim on auto settings and L4D2 via nivida GE optimised settings

You probably have V-Sync turned on, which will limit the framerate to the refresh rate of your monitor to prevent tearing. Turn that off and you'll get the actual framerate.

 

[Canklestank]

Can anyone recommend a MB with 2 USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports (Type A and Type C) with at least 4x USB 3.0 (3.1 Gen1) that doesn't have QC issues?

Was looking at the MSI Z170A M5 but quite a few NewEgg reviewers mention bent CPU pins and bad customer service and having to eat the cost of the board.

The ASUS boards I looked at have nice features, especially audio, at the sacrifice of less USB 3.0 ports, but they also have a lot of DOA reviews and complaints of bad customer service.

I guess my question is, is there something wrong with Z170? Seems to be pretty widespread across most Z170 boards I've looked at. Is there a MB that avoids most of these issues, or at least a manufacturer with decent CS when playing the playing MB lottery?

I know it will probably be better for me to wait for Kaby Lake for USB3.1, but I'd still like an idea of the current MB landscape.

 

[thenexus6]

You probably have V-Sync turned on, which will limit the framerate to the refresh rate of your monitor to prevent tearing. Turn that off and you'll get the actual framerate.

Gotcha. L4D just went to 300FPS. I am so new to all this PC gaming..

 

[LordAlu]

Can anyone recommend a MB with 2 USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports (Type A and Type C) with at least 4x USB 3.0 (3.1 Gen1) that doesn't have QC issues?

Was looking at the MSI Z170A M5 but quite a few NewEgg reviewers mention bent CPU pins and bad customer service and having to eat the cost of the board.

The ASUS boards I looked at have nice features, especially audio, at the sacrifice of less USB 3.0 ports, but they also have a lot of DOA reviews and complaints of bad customer service.

I guess my question is, is there something wrong with Z170? Seems to be pretty widespread across most Z170 boards I've looked at. Is there a MB that avoids most of these issues, or at least a manufacturer with decent CS when playing the playing MB lottery?

I know it will probably be better for me to wait for Kaby Lake for USB3.1, but I'd still like an idea of the current MB landscape.

The problem with reading reviews is you'll almost always be put off by one or two bad reviews, when there will have been thousands of sales, and "bad customer service" is usually speak for "they wouldn't do anything even though it was totally my fault and I broke it".

Bent pins, for example, are impossible with a new board as every socket is laser checked at the factory before the protective cover goes on. The only way the pins get bent is when a customer incorrectly installs a processor. When it doesn't work, they take the processor out, see the bent pins, and assume it must have come faulty, then get mad when places won't exchange/refund them.

You're far more likely to get a perfectly working board then one with a fault. Just pick the one with the features you want.

Gotcha. L4D just went to 300FPS. I am so new to all this PC gaming..

I wouldn't leave it like that - at 300FPS you'll probably get a lot of screen tearing, and your graphics card will be working overtime to push out that framerate when it's of no benefit.

You know it's working fine though!

 

[Lashley]

Get the GTX 980 Ti () for an extra if you can afford it... much better performance.

A GTX 970 () overclocked can get close to a GTX 980 () should you want to spend a bit less.

EDIT: Plus it looks like the x70/x80 lines will probably get replaced in the next couple of months.

Can you elaborate for a total PC noob?

 

[LordAlu]

Can you elaborate for a total PC noob?

There are new NVIDIA cards due this year, with current speculation being by the end of Q2 (so late June), which would replace the GTX 970 / 980 cards. So you could wait for those and either:

a) Buy one of the newly release cards
b) Buy the older GTX 970 / 980 as they would hopefully be cheaper.​

 

[PeskyToaster]

My motherboard should be here today. Am I able to start without the case or should I wait? I'm too eager to get started. I ordered my case from NZXT on Thursday and it says Fulfilled but I haven't received shipping info yet. Kind of hate ordering from anywhere besides Amazon at this point. Might shoot a message to their support, they seem to be good at responding.

 

[LordAlu]

My motherboard should be here today. Am I able to start without the case or should I wait? I'm too eager to get started. I ordered my case from NZXT on Thursday and it says Fulfilled but I haven't received shipping info yet. Kind of hate ordering from anywhere besides Amazon at this point. Might shoot a message to their support, they seem to be good at responding.

You could pretty much test everything before hand.

• Put the CPU, Cooler and RAM in the board.
• Connect a monitor to the output on the back and a keyboard to a USB port.
• Connect the PSU ATX and EPS cables and plug it into the mains.
• Power the board by bridging the two pins for the power switch (look at your manual to find those pins).
• See if you get an image.

If you have a graphics card, once you've done this you can power it off (bridge the pins again), slot your graphics card in and plug the video cable into it, connect any PCIe cables from the power supply, then turn the whole thing on again.

You'll have to take the graphics card out and disconnect the power supply when you come to install the board into your case, but you can leave the CPU/cooler/RAM installed.

 

[StAidan]

[forget it; I misread the question]

 

[TheCanisDirus]

High framerate > resolution.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($348.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.29 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($112.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.74 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT H440 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($118.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($86.49 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1006.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-06 08:35 EDT-0400

Drop a graphics card in and you're good to go.

Regarding the CPU... for a gaming only (ok, maybe some netflix streaming and simple net stuff) PC would it be more bang for my buck to go a step down to the i5 6600K and purchase something in the 980 range vs 970 range (in pascal terms when they're released). Or is it more future proof to have a stronger CPU and upgrade GPU ever 2 years or so?

And as far as the memory goes, would it be better to use (4) 8gb vs (2) 16gb sticks... i'm not super PC savvy but i remember someone saying something about spreading the memory between more channels (or something) was better?

Also - Does a 750w power supply allow me upgrade room? Enough to last 5/6 years at least?

Oh, one more thing! Does anybody use DVD/BluRay drives in their builds anymore? I cant see myself wanting one so do they make any slick, smaller ATX cases with no space/ports for them?

Build looks great... i'll have to make a decision on if i want to build one with some of the tax return this year.

I just bought my build after watching this thread for about a month as well as r/buildapc and the like. I'm no expert but here's what I've got.

Steam Big Picture mode is still a beta-ish product but it works surprisingly well. Not for everything, but partially. The Steam Controller, if you get used to it, will enable you to play a lot of surprising stuff on a TV. Also a beta product, but also surprisingly effective in its current state. I recommend looking into both.

Right now, if you spend around 1000 on a gaming PC, it will be capable of driving most next-gen games to ultra at >60fps on 1080p or 1440p. The high end can handle some 4K games. I haven't done much research into 120fps; you may have to do your own research on that topic. But generally you're probably looking at the right ballpark for upgrades - a new gaming PC will do what you want and for the right price.

It's not recommended to buy a new GPU right now because of Polaris/Pascal but the rest is safe to buy. It's a decent time to buy a new processor; we just got a new generation of Intel processor chipset (Skylake) and motherboards (LGA1151 with DDR4 RAM, USB 3.1, etc).

General pieces based on priorities:
-If your full budget for your gaming PC is $1000, decide how much you want to set aside for the GPU. A Geforce 970 is $300-ish and it's usually the recommended place to start. The rumors about the new cards aren't very informative, so you'll just have to blindly do this part unless you wait. I'd aim for $650 for everything that isn't the GPU.
-If you want to overclock, you'll need an Intel processor model ending in "k" such as the i5-6600k, as well as a more featured motherboard that has overclocking options. If you don't want to overclock, this can save you money by dropping down to a lower tier of processor/motherboard, but then you lose out on the higher processor speeds that some games need to perform really well.
-A solid state drive is nice if you want a snappier OS/app experience. Most people buy both an SSD and a normal hard drive for bulk game storage.

Great info here thanks! Esp regarding GPU vs. CPU processing power. I'd def rather go "k" to have the option to overclock a year or three down the line.

 

[PeskyToaster]

You could pretty much test everything before hand.

• Put the CPU, Cooler and RAM in the board.
• Connect a monitor to the output on the back and a keyboard to a USB port.
• Connect the PSU ATX and EPS cables and plug it into the mains.
• Power the board by bridging the two pins for the power switch (look at your manual to find those pins).
• See if you get an image.

If you have a graphics card, once you've done this you can power it off (bridge the pins again), slot your graphics card in and plug the video cable into it, connect any PCIe cables from the power supply, then turn the whole thing on again.

You'll have to take the graphics card out and disconnect the power supply when you come to install the board into your case, but you can leave the CPU/cooler/RAM installed.

Cool, this is exactly what I needed. Thank you!

P.S. This is an amazing thread, thank you everyone for all the help.

 

[Sectorseven]

Regarding the CPU... for a gaming only (ok, maybe some netflix streaming and simple net stuff) PC would it be more bang for my buck to go a step down to the i5 6600K and purchase something in the 980 range vs 970 range (in pascal terms when they're released). Or is it more future proof to have a stronger CPU and upgrade GPU ever 2 years or so?

At this very moment, the i5/980 would be a better value. However, two years from now I'd wager GPUs will have advanced much more than CPUs. For what it's worth, we're seeing more games list the i7 as "recommended." It also seems like the i7 is creeping into more and more gamers builds.

 

[LordAlu]

Regarding the CPU... for a gaming only (ok, maybe some netflix streaming and simple net stuff) PC would it be more bang for my buck to go a step down to the i5 6600K and purchase something in the 980 range vs 970 range (in pascal terms when they're released). Or is it more future proof to have a stronger CPU and upgrade GPU ever 2 years or so?

I mainly went for the best hardware for that $1,000 budget, but the i5-6600K will be just fine for a gaming rig (you'd get the i7-6700K mainly for rendering tasks), so you could put that money into your graphics card savings (or more RAM).

And as far as the memory goes, would it be better to use (4) 8gb vs (2) 16gb sticks... i'm not super PC savvy but i remember someone saying something about spreading the memory between more channels (or something) was better?

Skylake is "Dual Channel", so it does best with RAM in pairs. If you wanted 8GB you'd get 2x4GB, likewise for 16GB you'd get 2x8GB. Bear in mind though that the performance difference between 2x4GB sticks or 1x8GB is negligible and only really shows up in benchmarks, so you could get a single 8GB stick and then add another later to upgrade to 16GB.

Also - Does a 750w power supply allow me upgrade room? Enough to last 5/6 years at least?

Plenty. You could run a machine with an i5-6600K and two 980Tis on that PSU.

Oh, one more thing! Does anybody use DVD/BluRay drives in their builds anymore? I cant see myself wanting one so do they make any slick, smaller ATX cases with no space/ports for them?

Not really no. Windows can be installed off USB, and almost every program anyone ever uses nowadays gets download off the internet, including games (Steam, Origin etc). In fact, the case in the build you quoted on (NZXT H440) has no external DVD slots.

 

[TheCanisDirus]

At this very moment, the i5/980 would be a better value. However, two years from now I'd wager GPUs will have advanced much more than CPUs. For what it's worth, we're seeing more games list the i7 as "recommended." It also seems like the i7 is creeping into more and more gamers builds.

I do hear people starting to complain about their CPUs now as much as their GPU's. Might as well get more-than-enough.

I mainly went for the best hardware for that $1,000 budget, but the i5-6600K will be just fine for a gaming rig (you'd get the i7-6700K mainly for rendering tasks), so you could put that money into your graphics card savings (or more RAM).


Skylake is "Dual Channel", so it does best with RAM in pairs. If you wanted 8GB you'd get 2x4GB, likewise for 16GB you'd get 2x8GB. Bear in mind though that the performance difference between 2x4GB sticks or 1x8GB is negligible and only really shows up in benchmarks, so you could get a single 8GB stick and then add another later to upgrade to 16GB.


Plenty. You could run a machine with an i5-6600K and two 980Tis on that PSU.


Not really no. Windows can be installed off USB, and almost every program anyone ever uses nowadays gets download off the internet, including games (Steam, Origin etc). In fact, the case in the build you quoted on (NZXT H440) has no external DVD slots.

What do you mean by "rendering tasks"? Specific types of games that have a lot of "x" things? If i want to pay the next Battlefield game at 60+ fps and 1080p on high... i should likely be ok, with a 6600k right?

I see what you're saying regarding Skylake being "dual channel". For some reason i thought it was quad? What is the current/near future max amount of ram any gaming rig really "needs"? 32-64? Or is 64 super overkill and would it offer little to no benefit?

So i understand we just got a GPU update... should i just wait to buy everything until the Pascal GPU's? Or is there any benefit to buying everything but the GPU now? Prices normally go down i'd assume.

Thanks as always guys!

 

[LordAlu]

What do you mean by "rendering tasks"? Specific types of games that have a lot of "x" things? If i want to pay the next Battlefield game at 60+ fps and 1080p on high... i should likely be ok, with a 6600k right?

I should have been more specific, sorry. By "rendering tasks", I mean things like heavy Photoshop, CAD, 3DS Max, Maya kinda stuff. Nothing gaming related really.

I see what you're saying regarding Skylake being "dual channel". For some reason i thought it was quad? What is the current/near future max amount of ram any gaming rig really "needs"? 32-64? Or is 64 super overkill and would it offer little to no benefit?

32GB is overkill, 64GB is super overkill. I think there's like one VR game that likes to have up to 32GB, but otherwise just 8GB is fine, although 16GB is preferred right now.

So i understand we just got a GPU update... should i just wait to buy everything until the Pascal GPU's? Or is there any benefit to buying everything but the GPU now? Prices normally go down i'd assume.

Prices normally don't move too much. Usually we'd say you'd always be waiting, but it's generally expected that a whole new architecture of NVIDIA cards will be out later this year, so it may be best holding off on the card, or buying something like a GTX 970 for now and then selling it and upgrading in six months time.

 

[kuYuri]

I do hear people starting to complain about their CPUs now as much as their GPU's. Might as well get more-than-enough.



What do you mean by "rendering tasks"? Specific types of games that have a lot of "x" things? If i want to pay the next Battlefield game at 60+ fps and 1080p on high... i should likely be ok, with a 6600k right?

I see what you're saying regarding Skylake being "dual channel". For some reason i thought it was quad? What is the current/near future max amount of ram any gaming rig really "needs"? 32-64? Or is 64 super overkill and would it offer little to no benefit?

So i understand we just got a GPU update... should i just wait to buy everything until the Pascal GPU's? Or is there any benefit to buying everything but the GPU now? Prices normally go down i'd assume.

Thanks as always guys!

Rendering tasks like video rendering, Photoshop, streaming, etc.

Say you are gaming and want to record your gameplay, edit those videos, then upload to YouTube. An i7 would be more efficient for that than an i5, although an i5 will still do just fine.

If you are just concerned with gaming, an i5 will be fine. You may get slightly higher average framerate in some games with an i7, but we're talking slightly. Some games also depend on the CPU for better performance just as much as a GPU (GTAV, Crysis 3), but again it's mostly negligible.

At least, this is how I understand it.

 

[MoFuzz]

Are there any good sites to buy used PC parts other than Craigslist? I've been scouring the listings there with limited success.

I'm in Canada btw. Looking for even a 3570K or 4670K type setup.

Don't want to spend $1,500 CAD after taxes for a current generation build as everyone seems to carry the belief that CPU progress has stagnated in the past few years, for the most part.

 

[EsotericManiac]

I have a dell XPS 435 MT desktop with a 7800 graphics card. I only want to use this PC to stream on (not actually play games on)

I don't think the 4gigs of RAM will cut it. I think it would be in my best interest to upgrade.

What's a fairly cheap recommendation and, given it's purpose, what would do the job well?

I'm mainly just going to go capture card (legato hd 60) into it, then into OBS to stream

thanks in advance

just seeing if anyone has an idea of what I would need

thanks again

 

[LordAlu]

just seeing if anyone has an idea of what I would need

thanks again

Streaming quality is pretty much CPU and RAM dependent, so your graphics card won't really make a difference. I think that Dell spec has an i7-920 which (whilst a little long in the tooth) should be good for 720p 60FPS if needs be. The more RAM the better, so 8GB or preferably 16GB would be great. Otherwise the rest of the specs don't matter much.

 

[opticalmace]

Are there any good sites to buy used PC parts other than Craigslist? I've been scouring the listings there with limited success.

I'm in Canada btw. Looking for even a 3570K or 4670K type setup.

Don't want to spend $1,500 CAD after taxes for a current generation build as everyone seems to carry the belief that CPU progress has stagnated in the past few years, for the most part.

Maybe post up in the gaf buy and sell, and in the canadian gaming deals thread.

 

[ref]

Are there any good sites to buy used PC parts other than Craigslist? I've been scouring the listings there with limited success.

I'm in Canada btw. Looking for even a 3570K or 4670K type setup.

Don't want to spend $1,500 CAD after taxes for a current generation build as everyone seems to carry the belief that CPU progress has stagnated in the past few years, for the most part.

Right now it's pretty rough with the CAD being crap, luckily I built mine before it went to crap but I hear ya.

I'd look around on Canadian tech websites buy/sell/trade forums, I have seen some fair prices there.

 

[Aztechnology]

After all this news on incremental console revisions and the subsequent shit posting about PC's as per usual I'm getting more frustrated than normal. Wish we could create a sticky or at least a thread about low cost PC's. I have builds for $400, $500, $600 that are really great. I would even keep them up to date with the best parts for price in each build level. But I guess there's not much point with this thread in place. There's just so much misinformation being spread that I'm losing my damn mind. Being relegated to a community thread means that the only people looking in here are people who are already interested in PC's or generally have at least decided to build one.

 

[Conor_Fool]

Hey everyone, I have a quick dumb question -

Do monitors output the same sound as the PC? I have had headphones plugged into my PC for a while and when I tried plugging them into the monitor, the sound didn't seem as good.

 

[TheCanisDirus]

I should have been more specific, sorry. By "rendering tasks", I mean things like heavy Photoshop, CAD, 3DS Max, Maya kinda stuff. Nothing gaming related really.


32GB is overkill, 64GB is super overkill. I think there's like one VR game that likes to have up to 32GB, but otherwise just 8GB is fine, although 16GB is preferred right now.


Prices normally don't move too much. Usually we'd say you'd always be waiting, but it's generally expected that a whole new architecture of NVIDIA cards will be out later this year, so it may be best holding off on the card, or buying something like a GTX 970 for now and then selling it and upgrading in six months time.

Ah i got you... "rendering-rendering". I do light illustrator and photoshop but that's usually sketching with a tablet.

So (2) 8gb really is better than (4) 4gb? I'm thinking i might go with (2) 8gb sticks or (2) 16gb sticks. Now what i really dont understand is the latency and clock speeds. 2400 hertz and 14 CAS seems common... but there are an infinite amount of combinations i see. What should i really be looking for?

Rendering tasks like video rendering, Photoshop, streaming, etc.

Say you are gaming and want to record your gameplay, edit those videos, then upload to YouTube. An i7 would be more efficient for that than an i5, although an i5 will still do just fine.

If you are just concerned with gaming, an i5 will be fine. You may get slightly higher average framerate in some games with an i7, but we're talking slightly. Some games also depend on the CPU for better performance just as much as a GPU (GTAV, Crysis 3), but again it's mostly negligible.

At least, this is how I understand it.

Thanks for the info! I'll have to wait and see what prices do around the time the new GPU's are about to release. I'll check prices and put together something closer to that time as far as CPU vs GPU is concerned i think.

 

[kennah]

After all this news on incremental console revisions and the subsequent shit posting about PC's as per usual I'm getting more frustrated than normal. Wish we could create a sticky or at least a thread about low cost PC's. I have builds for $400, $500, $600 that are really great. I would even keep them up to date with the best parts for price in each build level. But I guess there's not much point with this thread in place. There's just so much misinformation being spread that I'm losing my damn mind. Being relegated to a community thread means that the only people looking in here are people who are already interested in PC's or generally have at least decided to build one.

So post them anyway. Let's check it out.

 

[LordAlu]

Ah i got you... "rendering-rendering". I do light illustrator and photoshop but that's usually sketching with a tablet.

So (2) 8gb really is better than (4) 4gb? I'm thinking i might go with (2) 8gb sticks or (2) 16gb sticks. Now what i really dont understand is the latency and clock speeds. 2400 hertz and 14 CAS seems common... but there are an infinite amount of combinations i see. What should i really be looking for?

The default speed for DDR4 is 2133MHz, and you get some slight performance gains the higher you go. The sweet spot for price/performance is around 3000-3200MHz. There isn't any point in going higher as the gains are minimal but the prices start skyrocketing. Don't worry about the timings either.

 

[TheCanisDirus]

The default speed for DDR4 is 2133MHz, and you get some slight performance gains the higher you go. The sweet spot for price/performance is around 3000-3200MHz. There isn't any point in going higher as the gains are minimal but the prices start skyrocketing. Don't worry about the timings either.

Great info... thanks!

 

[Aztechnology]

So post them anyway. Let's check it out.

In here or as a new thread? I'm fairly certain it will get shuttered if I created a thread because it will fall into this threads scope.

 

[Maiden Voyage]

In here or as a new thread? I'm fairly certain it will get shuttered if I created a thread because it will fall into this threads scope.

Write the post up, PM it to a mod for approval. If they say no, then post it in this thread. Then you can reference should the argument come up.

 

[Aztechnology]

Write the post up, PM it to a mod for approval. If they say no, then post it in this thread. Then you can reference should the argument come up.

Suppose it's worth a shot.

 

[The_Inquisitor]

Anyone have recommended replacement fans for a CM 212? The fans I have on my current one need replacement on my new rig. Also I have push/pull config but does it make sense to maybe just do a "push" config this time. Thanks.

 

[Lashley]

Best CPU around atm in terms of performance and future proofing? The 6700k?

 

[Lockjaw333]

Just bought my first ssd, specifically a PNY 480 gb. Ssd are finally cheap enough to take the plunge, 480 gb for $120 is not bad. I have a few questions.

1. What is the life span I can expect? Is the limited life span over blown?

2. Should I clone my HDD to the ssd, or do a fresh install of windows 10?

3. For cloning what is the best software. It comes with acronis, is that okay?

4. If I should do a fresh install, is there a way to make a windows 10 install disk? My win 10 was a free upgrade from 7.

Any other tips for a first time ssd owner?

Thanks!

 

[CJVaughn]

Piranha Capelin Black Glass Computer Desk

It was really cheap (around £50 on Amazon) I got it years ago.

Aww man, it appears to no longer be for sale anywhere I look. That is the exact type of desk I've been looking for to finish my setup

 

[e90Mark]

Just bought my first ssd, specifically a PNY 480 gb. Ssd are finally cheap enough to take the plunge, 480 gb for $120 is not bad. I have a few questions.

1. What is the life span I can expect? Is the limited life span over blown?

2. Should I clone my HDD to the ssd, or do a fresh install of windows 10?

3. For cloning what is the best software. It comes with acronis, is that okay?

4. If I should do a fresh install, is there a way to make a windows 10 install disk? My win 10 was a free upgrade from 7.

Any other tips for a first time ssd owner?

Thanks!

1. A long time. Yes
2. Clone, because of number 4.
3. Macrium Reflect works really good, never tried Acronis.

 

[boredandlazy]

Aeomi backupper also worked great for me when cloning my system SSD to a larger one.

 

[tebunker]

So Long story short, fall of 2014 I bought a PC with what I thought was a, i7 4790K @4ghz, but turns out it was just a plain i& 4790 @ 3.6ghz . I'm still pretty good for a while now aren't I?

I have a 270x with 2gb in there, 16gb of Ram, and while I am not having any issues doing things that I want at comfortable settings I am currently saving for a newer video card preferably with a lot more ram on the card and an SSD. I just was checking the thread and then did some more research on my CPU and realized I didn't have what I thought I did and wanted to make sure I still had some legs under me.

 

[kennah]

You'll be fine.

 

[The_Inquisitor]

Well there are actually some solid fucking deals online right now so I purchased everything I need but my GPU (wait until June for next line). For my windows 10 install do I have to get a new key for my new motherboard? Or can I copy the installer to a flash disc and override my existing install on my current SSD. Thanks.

 

[tebunker]

You'll be fine.

I am guessing that was to me, I thought so, I was thinking I may go high end on the Card as I have a beefy power supply in there that has handled all my drives and my card etc. I want to get several more years out of this thing for sure.

 

[Najaf]

Am I correct about the following?

• Kaby Lake architecture is up next for Intel (Summer 2016). Will support the same chip set as its successor Connonlake
• TI and Titan versions of Pascal are likely not going to hit until Q42016/Q12017 but lower level cards are expected this summer. The lower end will not feature HBM2 but GDDR5X.
• Assuming a Kaby Lake processor (1151 socket) and a Pascal HBM2 card are in my future plans, a current motherboard with PCIe3 and USB-C is "future proof" for the next several years and there is no new revelatory mobo tech on the near-term horizon?
• Successor to DDR4 is not expected until 2018

Its tough to follow the threads and googling results can provide conflicting or unclear information. I am trying to plan for a build later this year and am just making sure my ducks are in a row.

Thanks!

 

[Oxn]

Am I correct about the following?

• Kaby Lake architecture is up next for Intel (Summer 2016). Will support the same chip set as its successor Connonlake
• TI and Titan versions of Pascal are likely not going to hit until Q42016/Q12017 but lower level cards are expected this summer. The lower end will not feature HBM2 but GDDR5X.
• Assuming a Kaby Lake processor (1151 socket) and a Pascal HBM2 card are in my future plans, a current motherboard with PCIe3 and USB-C is "future proof" for the next several years and there is no new revelatory mobo tech on the near-term horizon?
• Successor to DDR4 is not expected until 2018

Its tough to follow the threads and googling results can provide conflicting or unclear information. I am trying to plan for a build later this year and am just making sure my ducks are in a row.

Thanks!

I would say pretty spot on, and very likely scenario. Im not too sure about DDR5, so I dont know.

But if what they say is true, then IceLake might be DDR5?

 

[C00kie M0nster]

Hey, I have a quick question I was hoping you guys could answer. In preparation for the Pascal GPU release in late May or June, I purchased a new monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU. It's spectacular and seems to be in great working order.

However, I currently have a GTX 570. I was aware I wouldn't be able to use G-Sync but stupidly forgot to check out the ports I could use. The monitor only has High Speed HDMi and DisplayPort 1.2 while my GPU has 2x DVI and regular HDMI.

My question is if I get an adapter like THIS will I be able to run at 120hz or am I stuck at 60hz?

Thanks guys!

 

[Aztechnology]

Here's my ~$400 PC build I purpose for users looking to get console like performance (The 950 usually can come out quite a ways ahead of consoles though).

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($112.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus B150M-A D3 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($67.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($31.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($127.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Raidmax Vortex ATX Mid Tower Case ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.89 @ Newegg)
Total: $438.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-06 21:51 EDT-0400

Operating system will be recommended from the Reddit Software Swap where myself and many other I know have bought Windows keys without issue. With the current windows 10 free upgrade option you can get windows 8.1 standard for $20 or pro for $25

Working on the $500 which will likely include a R9 380X and the $600 which will likely be a R9 380x as well but with a better CPU option and likely 16GB ram.

You guys want to share your low cost build recommendations?

 

[RGM79]

Here's my ~$400 PC build I purpose for users looking to get console like performance (The 950 usually can come out quite a ways ahead of consoles though).

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($112.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus B150M-A D3 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($67.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($31.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($127.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Raidmax Vortex ATX Mid Tower Case ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.89 @ Newegg)
Total: $438.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-06 21:51 EDT-0400

Operating system will be recommended from the Reddit Software Swap where myself and many other I know have bought Windows keys without issue. With the current windows 10 free upgrade option you can get windows 8.1 standard for $20 or pro for $25

Working on the $500 which will likely include a R9 380X and the $600 which will likely be a R9 380x as well but with a better CPU option and likely 16GB ram.

You guys want to share your low cost build recommendations?

If aiming for a Skylake parts list, opt for DDR4 RAM instead. No point in recommending DDR3 now. A decent set of DDR4 RAM and a compatible motherboard won't cost extra over what you already have in the parts list.

Hey, I have a quick question I was hoping you guys could answer. In preparation for the Pascal GPU release in late May or June, I purchased a new monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU. It's spectacular and seems to be in great working order.

However, I currently have a GTX 570. I was aware I wouldn't be able to use G-Sync but stupidly forgot to check out the ports I could use. The monitor only has High Speed HDMi and DisplayPort 1.2 while my GPU has 2x DVI and regular HDMI.

My question is if I get an adapter like THIS will I be able to run at 120hz or am I stuck at 60hz?

Thanks guys!

What model of GTX 570 do you have exactly? A name or picture would be good, and a model number even better.

Well there are actually some solid fucking deals online right now so I purchased everything I need but my GPU (wait until June for next line). For my windows 10 install do I have to get a new key for my new motherboard? Or can I copy the installer to a flash disc and override my existing install on my current SSD. Thanks.

Depends. Did you buy a retail copy of Windows 10 or did you get it as a free upgrade from Windows 7/8/8.1? If it's the former then you should be fine, you just need to contact Microsoft to get a bit of help to have it activated on your new PC. If it's the latter, you might have some more trouble as Microsoft intended the free offer to be used to upgrade old PCs, and not be for brand new PCs. See here for more info.

So Long story short, fall of 2014 I bought a PC with what I thought was a, i7 4790K @4ghz, but turns out it was just a plain i& 4790 @ 3.6ghz . I'm still pretty good for a while now aren't I?

I have a 270x with 2gb in there, 16gb of Ram, and while I am not having any issues doing things that I want at comfortable settings I am currently saving for a newer video card preferably with a lot more ram on the card and an SSD. I just was checking the thread and then did some more research on my CPU and realized I didn't have what I thought I did and wanted to make sure I still had some legs under me.

You should be just fine for the next few years. It's not anywhere close to obsolete and will support new graphics cards for a long time.

Hey everyone, I have a quick dumb question -

Do monitors output the same sound as the PC? I have had headphones plugged into my PC for a while and when I tried plugging them into the monitor, the sound didn't seem as good.

The monitor would be considered a passthrough. Sound comes from the PC and it goes through the monitor before going to your headphones. Quality will depend on various factors, but I doubt the monitor would ever improve sound quality. Unless you really want to for some reason (more convenient to plug in and out?) it'd probably be better to keep it plugged into the PC rather than the monitor.

 

[Aztechnology]

If aiming for a Skylake parts list, opt for DDR4 RAM instead. No point in recommending DDR3 now. A decent set of DDR4 RAM and a compatible motherboard won't cost extra over what you already have in the parts list.



What model of GTX 570 do you have exactly? A name or picture would be good, and a model number even better.



Depends. Did you buy a retail copy of Windows 10 or did you get it as a free upgrade from Windows 7/8/8.1? If it's the former then you should be fine, you just need to contact Microsoft to get a bit of help to have it activated on your new PC. If it's the latter, you might have some more trouble as Microsoft intended the free offer to be used to upgrade old PCs, and not be for brand new PCs. See here for more info.



You should be just fine for the next few years. It's not anywhere close to obsolete and will support new graphics cards for a long time.



The monitor would be considered a passthrough. Sound comes from the PC and it goes through the monitor before going to your headphones. Quality will depend on various factors, but I doubt the monitor would ever improve sound quality. Unless you really want to for some reason (more convenient to plug in and out?) it'd probably be better to keep it plugged into the PC rather than the monitor.

I thought the same thing but the cost difference would probably bring it up into the $500 dollar range. The point of this build is to bring it as close as possible to the cost of a PS4. with some performance to spare. On PC part picker though it wasn't giving me a list of DDR4 capable mobo's or RAM subsequently due to the Mobo.

 

[RGM79]

I thought the same thing but the cost difference would probably bring it up into the $500 dollar range. The point of this build is to bring it as close as possible to the cost of a PS4. with some performance to spare. On PC part picker though it wasn't giving me a list of DDR4 capable mobo's or RAM subsequently due to the Mobo.

The DDR4 RAM and motherboard I linked are cheaper than the DDR3 parts that were in the list, though.