It's the CPU, nearly 2x the score, he is also overclocked to 4.2Ghz. RAM speed and timings may have some small effect too.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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It's the CPU, nearly 2x the score, he is also overclocked to 4.2Ghz. RAM speed and timings may have some small effect too.
| Praxis |
Banned
You also have to remember some CPUs will not even boot at 3000 MHz RAM. So it's something that must balanced. I recommend 2400/2666Mhz for a safe bet if price is no different. I bought 3000Mhz CL15 myself but I have been overclocking for years and I'm not relying on XMP "hit a problem with a hammer" solution.
It's a Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti Xtreme Gaming Windforce.
OK
He probably overclocked the GPU too, which I highly recommend. You can do that with MSI Afterburner.
It's best to just compare graphics scores in 3D mark.
Stratosphere
Member
I have the Evo 212. Thanks for the links.
CrocMother
Banned
minimum spec for GPU is NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750, ATI Radeon HD 7850
Yeah from what I read, it's probably June at computex, and skylake-e next year I think(?)
Elitist1945
Member
I want to look into water cooling but the thought of getting water all over my parts is scary.
There's two kinds of water cooling.
There's the closed loop kits. Require zero maintenance, and highly risk free (I've only ever heard of two leaks personally). These are made by Corsair, Kraken, etc. They work very well. Are reasonably quiet, don't take up much room in a case (designed for it).
Then there's custom loop cooling. Slightly more risky, but everything is very well designed these days. It's horrifically expensive, but looks amazing, and can keep a computer at slightly above ambient temp.
If you're scared, and have a case that is big enough, you're probably better off going with a good air cooler. It's cheaper, quieter, and risk free.
Fun Fact: Even air coolers have a bit of water inside them. It helps with the heat exchange in the pipes.
dmosher
Member
Looking to upgrade in preparation for an HTC Vive that's coming before the end of april and wondering if it's worth it to hang onto most of these components and just upgrade the CPU and GPU. I've got a line on a 3770k for roughly ~$300 CAD but I've also got some budget and could just build a new system entirely.
Would a ~$750 upgrade path between CPU and GPU (3770k + 970) be warranted to get me VR ready or is it just better to wait a bit longer and do a new full build?
I'm hesitant to drop a lot of money on a full build now with the major GPU changes around the corner :\
Current PC components are:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-2400 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus P8H67-M PRO Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Patriot G2 Series 8GB (4 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 Memory
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.97 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Club 3D Radeon R9 280X 3GB royalQueen Video Card
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($64.57 @ Vuugo)
Power Supply: Antec HCG M 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($157.63 @ Vuugo)
Total: $287.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-10 14:59 EDT-0400
Would a ~$750 upgrade path between CPU and GPU (3770k + 970) be warranted to get me VR ready or is it just better to wait a bit longer and do a new full build?
I'm hesitant to drop a lot of money on a full build now with the major GPU changes around the corner :\
Current PC components are:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-2400 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus P8H67-M PRO Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Patriot G2 Series 8GB (4 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 Memory
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.97 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Club 3D Radeon R9 280X 3GB royalQueen Video Card
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($64.57 @ Vuugo)
Power Supply: Antec HCG M 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($157.63 @ Vuugo)
Total: $287.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-10 14:59 EDT-0400
Oh, I didn't know. It's up to you if you want to try it.
drotahorror
Member
Anyone have any issues with this? I have hard drives, GPU and windows 10 already.
CPU - i5 6500k w/ CM 212 Evo cooler
mobo - Asus z170-A
ram - Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 16gb (2x8) 2666mhz
case - Corsair 300r
psu - EVGA Supernova NEX 650watt 80+ Gold modular
pcpartpicker link - http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Kwrs6h
I'll upgrade gpu when new ones come out. I looked at a lot of cases could have gone more expensive but I need optical drive bays, has to look clean and normal, and I don't want a full size tower. Not so sure about the PSU, I never expected a fully modular PSU to be that cheap. It does have great reviews though.
CPU - i5 6500k w/ CM 212 Evo cooler
mobo - Asus z170-A
ram - Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 16gb (2x8) 2666mhz
case - Corsair 300r
psu - EVGA Supernova NEX 650watt 80+ Gold modular
pcpartpicker link - http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Kwrs6h
I'll upgrade gpu when new ones come out. I looked at a lot of cases could have gone more expensive but I need optical drive bays, has to look clean and normal, and I don't want a full size tower. Not so sure about the PSU, I never expected a fully modular PSU to be that cheap. It does have great reviews though.
John Dunbar
correct about everything
i have been planning on building a top of the line gaming pc (from scratch, since my current one is total rubbish), but am i right in understanding that this is pretty much the worst possible time to do it? should i wait until there is more info on pascal and such, and see if prices would drop on stuff like 980 ti?
Yeah this is kinda one of those good 'waiting' points. New stuff due in a few months.
Just don't wait forever. And that said, stuff right now is plenty powerful, and you can't really go wrong.
opticalmace
Member
Is the Skylake bending thing a concern? I'm thinking of getting a Noctua D15, the big dual fan air cooler.
To pair with a Gigabyte Z170X-UD3 and 6700k. Thanks.
To pair with a Gigabyte Z170X-UD3 and 6700k. Thanks.
Only a concern if you're moving the rig a lot. Otherwise I don't see an issue.
drotahorror
Member
After doing a lot of research yesterday last year and this year imo are great times to build a PC (minus a gpu). Doesn't look like there will be any sick processors out until 2018. Skylake die shrink not even coming out til middle-late next year.
Seeing if I can get some help with this.
Bloodember
Member
Yes. Unless you want to wait for the new cards, which are rumored to be coming in the summer.
Will it be worth the wait though? Just wondering if the 390X will be able to still pack a lunch compared to these new cards and I can just upgrade to a gen 2/3 HBM2 card.
Lion Heart
Banned
Gaf I'm freaking out, I bought a used 7970 (tested at the guys house), I went home, dusted the pc, plugged in the new GPU, turned it on and nothing.
No power nothing. It's a shitty case so the wire management is very poor but I didn't touch any wires. It's a 650 watt psu that I've had for 4 years. Not the best but I never had a problem.
I tried turning the switch at the back of the PSU and pressed power and the cooler master fan flickers blue, switched back, nothing, switched back again and it flickered blue briefly again but that was the last time.
Help omg I'm screwed. Is it the PSU?
No power nothing. It's a shitty case so the wire management is very poor but I didn't touch any wires. It's a 650 watt psu that I've had for 4 years. Not the best but I never had a problem.
I tried turning the switch at the back of the PSU and pressed power and the cooler master fan flickers blue, switched back, nothing, switched back again and it flickered blue briefly again but that was the last time.
Help omg I'm screwed. Is it the PSU?
Bolivar687
Banned
390X will still pack a punch, AMD cards age like fine wine. It's just your money is likely to get you so much more, since everything they've said about Polaris suggests they're going to be very aggressive with performance per dollar.
Lion Heart
Banned
Yes of course 
I even tried putting my old gpu back in. I get absolutely no power.
I even tried putting my old gpu back in. I get absolutely no power.
opticalmace
Member
Yes of course
I even tried putting my old gpu back in. I get absolutely no power.
You probably bumped a cable somewhere. Check all the basics, unplug stuff you don't need. Take a good pic and post it here if you want us to take a look.
Yes of course
I even tried putting my old gpu back in. I get absolutely no power.
PC's are a major headache!!! When I upgraded to a 3770k windows would not load.. MS wanted me to authenticate windows.. I got everything reinstall but the PC randomly crashes. I fixed that by clearing the cmos..
oh yeah buddy you are in for a long night.. no wonder consoles exist
Lion Heart
Banned
Maybe I'll upload a pic but I'm certain it's the PSU, this happened to me like 4-5 years ago, and I had to swap the PSU. But even if the gpu is too power hungry for this PSU, you'd think it would turn on for a second at least.
camequipped
Member
Not really a need a PC question so let me know if this question needs to go somewhere else. I recently overclocked my GTX 970 and have done all the significant testing and stress testing. Games are working well but the only issue I am having is the hdmi losing signal occasionally. This has probably happened twice after I overclocked the card but can be fixed unplugging and re-plugging the hdmi cable. Is there something wrong with my card or might maybe its the hdmi cable? Its a reference card btw.
roadrunn3r
Member
Seems the PSU, do you have another one to try if it boots with it?
You are not helping him at all and this is not the thread for discussing about why consoles exist.
Turn the OC off and test it for a few days first.
It's likely the card/cable/monitor but the above is easier to rule out first.
Bloodember
Member
Its s current card, you wont have an issue.
Lion Heart
Banned
PSU is LSP ultra 650 watt, i5 2500k 7970 gpu
Unfortunately no I don't.
One thing I never mentioned is that for the new GPU I had to buy an 8 pin extension and when I turned on the PC the cable wasn't in fully on either end, I had to snap it in.
Remove the GPU from the PC
Connect the display cable to the motherboard display output
Try to turn the PC on.
Let us know what happens and importantly respond with details on what the fans do if it does turn on and then off.
I don't think it has anything to do with the handling of the extension cable.
PSU is very low quality, likely can't even supply 500W on the 12V rail when new.
roadrunn3r
Member
What LilJoka said and maybe try a paperclip test just to be sure.
oh please, he knows what I mean and coming from. If I wanted sound advice I would go here http://www.overclock.net/f/
Lion Heart
Banned
Thanks for the help, I tried unplugging most things, fans won't even flicker. I think this PSU is garbage.
What do you guys think of this
http://m.canadacomputers.com/mobile/itemid/069556
If that's over kill there's also
http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_1238_443&item_id=072476
First one seems like a good deal.
What's the paper clip trick? Am I supposed to see if it electrocutes me
What do you guys think of this
http://m.canadacomputers.com/mobile/itemid/069556
If that's over kill there's also
http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_1238_443&item_id=072476
First one seems like a good deal.
What's the paper clip trick? Am I supposed to see if it electrocutes me
roadrunn3r
Member
It's only 24v, it won't kill you.
don't try though
It's purpose is to test if the PSU is dead. You should turn it off before you plug the paper clip of course. Then turn it on and the PSU fan should start spinning.
michaelius
Banned
Sorry what? Here are some more examples. Beyond a certain point the diminishing returns make the difference incredibly negligible. The only time you usually see big performance gains from higher frequency ram is why you're dealing with an underperforming CPU.
Pretty much every site that I can reference shows that beyond 2133 there's very little different in terms of gaming performance. For other things yes there is a more significant difference. Video editing? Go for it! Rendering? Go for it! Compiling? Sure. Compression? Sure. Gaming? It's really not necessary.
Yes I know there's plenty of benchmarks in the net made by people who can't distinguish that some places in games are cpu bound while others are limited purely by gpu.
Anandtech cpu/memory gaming benchmarks are trash and reviewer there hasn't even noticed he is showing nonsence like for example 2800 CL16 being slower than 2400 CL16
Proper results look like this since even if differences aren't big there are no anomalies where obviously faster ram is slower in benchmark.
What is the best way to downclock my GPU?
Dota 2 has been crashing for a while now (sometimes with BSOD), at first I thought it was my CPU OC (even though it was fine for months before that), went back to stock and nothing.
Then I rolled back the GPU drivers (using 362.00 now) and shit kept happening.
Now I was just playing D4 and it crashed.
Other than a hardware failure, the only think I can think about is my GPU normal clock. Or maybe windows 10, I did the update recently.
It is a GTX970 (EVGA 2974) and by default it boosts to 1405Mhz.
BSOD dump:
http://i.imgur.com/OBbccxN.png
http://i.imgur.com/aHspJok.png
http://i.imgur.com/UtfDnUx.png
edit: just did a search and it is unlikely that gpu boost causes those crashes. Fuck.
Dota 2 has been crashing for a while now (sometimes with BSOD), at first I thought it was my CPU OC (even though it was fine for months before that), went back to stock and nothing.
Then I rolled back the GPU drivers (using 362.00 now) and shit kept happening.
Now I was just playing D4 and it crashed.
Other than a hardware failure, the only think I can think about is my GPU normal clock. Or maybe windows 10, I did the update recently.
It is a GTX970 (EVGA 2974) and by default it boosts to 1405Mhz.
BSOD dump:
http://i.imgur.com/OBbccxN.png
http://i.imgur.com/aHspJok.png
http://i.imgur.com/UtfDnUx.png
edit: just did a search and it is unlikely that gpu boost causes those crashes. Fuck.
Lion Heart
Banned
Ah shit, the fan started spinning with the paperclip test. I'm fucked arent I. What else could it be, the motherboard?It's only 24v, it won't kill you.don't try though
It's purpose is to test if the PSU is dead. You should turn it off before you plug the paper clip of course. Then turn it on and the PSU fan should start spinning.
That doesn't mean that the PSU isn't fucked. Spinning a fan isn't all that indivative of anything other than it being able to drive that fan. I've been there, paperclip short and everything. Even bought new hardware to swap out one-by-one.
If you really want to test this properly you'd have to get a multimeter and see if the rails output their intended voltages. That's one up from the paperclip. I'd swap out the PSU before anything else.
roadrunn3r
Member
Yup it could still be faulty. Have you tried unplugging and plugging again everything already? Clear cmos?
What is the best way to downclock my GPU?
Dota 2 has been crashing for a while now (sometimes with BSOD), at first I thought it was my CPU OC (even though it was fine for months before that), went back to stock and nothing.
Then I rolled back the GPU drivers (using 362.00 now) and shit kept happening.
Now I was just playing D4 and it crashed.
Other than a hardware failure, the only think I can think about is my GPU normal clock. Or maybe windows 10, I did the update recently.
It is a GTX970 (EVGA 2974) and by default it boosts to 1405Mhz.
BSOD dump:
http://i.imgur.com/OBbccxN.png
http://i.imgur.com/aHspJok.png
http://i.imgur.com/UtfDnUx.png
edit: just did a search and it is unlikely that gpu boost causes those crashes. Fuck.
Use MSI Afterburner. Move the core / memory sliders to the default stock speeds for a 970.
Lion Heart
Banned
That's a relief, I'm hoping it is the fucking psu cause anything else would be a nightmare. I've tried unplugging replugging, haven't tried clearing CMOS or whatever that is (pulling the battery?)
I'm going to buy a PSU tomorrow and hope for the best.
I'm going to buy a PSU tomorrow and hope for the best.
KatamariOnTheRocks
Member
I think I'll go with the 250gb so I can install a few of my most played games, thank you.
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try it the way you explained.
Thanks for looking out for the price, I appreciate it, but I have some extra cash at the moment so I don't mind going all in so everything is set until I do a new build 5+ years from now.
My computer is supposed to arrive on Monday so I'll wait on buying a replacement case until I can see it in person to get a better idea of what to go with. As far as actual parts go, I found the following parts that seem to be what I'm looking for, but I would really appreciate if someone could please let me know if these will definitely be compatible. I'll repost a condensed version of my original comment below this so you can see the specs.
Here are the parts I'm considering:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($116.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.45 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($196.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $588.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-10 19:22 EDT-0400
Normally I would just go with the G.Skill ram but when I was checking for compatibility I found This replacement memory on Amazon that says its UDIMM, but I don't know what that means or if the G.Skill is actually compatible so I found the Crucial ram by searching NewEgg for UDIMM.
Quick Edit: I see the HP site has the RAM listed as "16GB DDR4-2133 DIMM (2x8GB) RAM
24GB DDR4-2133 DIMM (2x8GB+2x4GB) RAM
32GB DDR4-2133 DIMM (4x8GB) RAM" so I'm really not sure if the ram is supposed to be DIMM or UDIMM, if anyone went through with this HP deal in the past and knows what the situation is I'd really appreciate it, thank you
Lion Heart
Banned
Alright gafferinos, I had a spare mobo lying around, plugged it in and it worked, but it's old with no CPU cooler. I plugged the PSU back into my main and only the mobo connected, it boots up and dies. For sure it's the PSU. Fuck ya.
Yes, most motherboards nowadays have a clear cmos button.
Turn on the PC after removing the battery to erase bios memory.. then shutdown the PC reinstall the battery and see what happens
- Status