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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Picked up the Logitech G900 Chaos Wireless Gaming Mouse for my latest build.

All I can say is, WOW. This thing blows every other device out the water (including the MX Master I use for work).

Its clearly over-spending and utterly luxury item especially in Australia where the thing cost me +$200AUD (thank you mr bonus!). But damn the thing is beautiful and I'm loving the accuracy in CS: GO.

Highly recommended.

I'm looking into getting a good mouse. One I am using is just some old laser mouse I had lying around and its awful. So slow and jittery. I'm told laser mice arent even good anymore? Some newer tech in them? I was looking at the Logitech G502 but its a bit pricey. Glad to hear a good mouse would payoff. Need a keyboard too but thinking just a cheaper one and get a better mouse.
 
Checked for anything simple, like a bad cord, or not plugged, or if the cord is in securely? That shouldn't happen.

You were right BTW.

The goddam cord was just not plugged in all the way... what an idiot.

But it worked! Installing the OS to my SSD and then just connecting my old HDD in, all the files were still there! Yay! Although none of my programs work off it anymore...
 

ethomaz

Banned
Full build.

* The prices are in Brazilian's Real.

PCPartPicker part list / Price by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($675.00)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($999.00)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($589.00)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($589.00)
Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case ($352.00)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($520.00)
Total: $3724.00
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-26 00:33 EDT-0400

Suggestions? Thanks in advance.
 

Vuze

Member
PCIe question: according to some google research, a x1 card should just work fine in a x16 depending on how the motherboard is configured.

Specs on mine say:
- 1 x PCI Express 3.0 x16 slot (PCIE2: x16 mode)
- 1 x PCI Express 2.0 x16 slot (PCIE4: x4 mode)

So assuming I use my graphics card in the PCIe 3.0 slot, it won't degrade performance if I put a x1 card in the PCIe 2.0 slot right?

I'm not quite sure what the PCIE2/PCIE4 is supposed to mean, that's why I'm curious...
 

Daante

Member
Benchmarks leaked for the new GPU Radeon Pro Duo:

"As you can see from the performance results, the card is up to 50% faster than the Radeon R9 Fury X at 1080P and 60% faster than the Fury X at 4K resolution. Compared to a reference GeForce GTX 980 Ti, the Radeon Pro Duo is 32% faster at 1080P and 60% faster than the GeForce card at 4K resolution. These results are insane and shows the muscles of AMD’s grandest graphics card to date."

http://wccftech.com/amd-radeon-pro-duo-benchmark-results-leaked/

AMD-Radeon-Pro-Duo-Benchmarks-Results_4K_GTX-980-Ti.png
 

Mutagenic

Permanent Junior Member
I don't know where else to ask this so I apologize in advance. I recently hooked up my old 19" Samsung SyncMaster 997DF to play some old classic PC games on Win7. First off, for some reason ReForce hasn't been forcing the desired Hz I've been asking it to. With the nvidia control panel, I'm able to set a custom resolution and force 1024x768 @ 100Hz for my desktop. However, whenever I run any game, it always reverts back to 85Hz. How on earth do I make it continue to force 100Hz in game? I've used Win10 in the past and it did this same thing. It's driving me crazy.
 

e90Mark

Member
I'm looking into getting a good mouse. One I am using is just some old laser mouse I had lying around and its awful. So slow and jittery. I'm told laser mice arent even good anymore? Some newer tech in them? I was looking at the Logitech G502 but its a bit pricey. Glad to hear a good mouse would payoff. Need a keyboard too but thinking just a cheaper one and get a better mouse.

Laser mice have hardware acceleration. Generally, best to stick to an optical mouse.
Depending on where you're located and when you wanted it, I would have a G502, that's about 8 months old, I would let go for cheap in the next week or two. Waiting on my new mouse.

I feel like a keyboard and mouse are worth it to spend a chunk of change on, since they are so tangible. You'll appreciate it every time you use it.
 

scogoth

Member
So I need to choose M.2 SSDs and if my budget allow with NVMe support?

About the size I guess it is these numbers in bold?



Thanks.

Yep look for M.2, M-keyed, 2242/2260/2280 sizes. NVMe if you find something that fits the budget and storage size requirements.
 

e90Mark

Member
I will say I have a M.2 NVMe 950 PRO for fun. Things load a little faster, but 90% of the time I don't notice a difference from a SATA SSD in my normal activities.

I wouldn't really recommend one unless you want the bleeding edge of tech and have the money to do so (I did), or you have a use case for the speed that NVMe can offer (I don't).
 

ethomaz

Banned
Yep look for M.2, M-keyed, 2242/2260/2280 sizes. NVMe if you find something that fits the budget and storage size requirements.
I posted my final specs with 250GB 850 EVO M.2 because the 250GB 950 Pro with NVMe is out of my budget.

Are there any cheaper NVMe SSD?

I will say I have a M.2 NVMe 950 PRO for fun. Things load a little faster, but 90% of the time I don't notice a difference from a SATA SSD in my normal activities.

I wouldn't really recommend one unless you want the bleeding edge of tech and have the money to do so (I did), or you have a use case for the speed that NVMe can offer (I don't).
I choose the 850 EVO M.2 for my build... there are any advantage choosing the 850 EVO SATA?
 
So admittedly i'm pretty uninformed on system RAM.

The item I've always prioritized has been the amount of RAM (in GB). I've understood 32GB to be better than 16GB. And I get why you would want to have 2x8GB sticks as opposed to 4x4GB sticks But what about if you have equivalent size ram but other factors are different?

For example, what should be prioritized for the following components/specs of RAM?

Timing
Cas Latency
Voltage
Speed

For example, How much improvement does moving from 2400 to 2666 or 2800 speed matter? Does the benefit scale linearly as you increase?
Is lower better on for Cas Latency, Voltage and Speed?
What is worth paying a little more for?
How do all of these things factor together so someone can pick the best ram for their system?

Obviously the usage matters, so I would say this question is tailored around DDR4 RAM for gaming purposes primarily. Thanks for any help.
 
So admittedly i'm pretty uninformed on system RAM.

The item I've always prioritized has been the amount of RAM (in GB). I've understood 32GB to be better than 16GB. And I get why you would want to have 2x8GB sticks as opposed to 4x4GB sticks But what about if you have equivalent size ram but other factors are different?

For example, what should be prioritized for the following components/specs of RAM?

Timing
Cas Latency
Voltage
Speed

For example, How much improvement does moving from 2400 to 2666 or 2800 speed matter? Does the benefit scale linearly as you increase?
Is lower better on for Cas Latency, Voltage and Speed?
What is worth paying a little more for?
How do all of these things factor together so someone can pick the best ram for their system?

Obviously the usage matters, so I would say this question is tailored around DDR4 RAM for gaming purposes primarily. Thanks for any help.

(gross simplification here)

Speed = MHz/MT/s = higher is better.

Latency numbers (including CAS and primary timings): smaller number = less cycles needed = faster.

At the same speed, lower latency numbers = faster latency.
At the same latency number, higher speed = faster everything.

So long as voltage isn't well off the norm for a given type of speed and latency (standard DDR4 is 1.2V, performance kits 1.35V or so)

Speed, then CAS Latency, then the rest of the primary timings, that's my preferred order. Remember that latencies and timings are based off absolute clock cycles - don't be alarmed if the CL number seems to stay constant, or become bigger as you move up speeds. An easy way to get the actual latency (without actually getting the exact cycle time, not needed for comparative purposes) is to do this math:

(1 / Speed) * CL

Probably will yield relevant numbers, at least ones relevant enough to make comparisons. There's a more "real" way to get the exact cycle time needed...

I think as long as you get out of the bottom-rung parts of the memory (minimum DDR3-1866 CL9 or DDR4-2400 CL15 (perhaps higher for DDR4, definitely true for DDR3 for Haswell and Kaveri non-IGP) you shouldn't get bottlenecked by memory.

Seeing as these days, the premium for a DDR4-3000 CL15 kit isn't much more than a 2133 or 2400 kit, why not go straight for the 3000 kit? Just remember that you'll need a Z170 motherboard to make full use of it if you're on a Skylake CPU. (The same deal applies for DDR3 and Z97/Haswell.) Do ask if you need the rest of the Z170 feature set, too, before you buy OC RAM.

Very fast RAM is situational. You may or may not benefit, but usually high-end computational stuff and minimum frame times in CPU-intense games should be helped.
 
Also I can buy a legit Windows 10 key straight from Microsoft right? That way I'll be able to activate Windows?

Yes, just keep in mind that it will be expensive. That's why so many people buy keys through Reddit.

On the plus side, if you get a "retail" key officially from MS, you'll be able to transfer the license to a new computer in the future, which is nice.

All the parts for my new build have arrived, except, of course, the case. :/
You can always do a test build outside the case. Actually, a lot of people recommend doing this anyway, to verify that all your parts work.
 

ethomaz

Banned
Lastest modifications in my build... I will order the parts this weekend.

Any suggestions / recommendations are welcome.

* Prices in Brasilian's Real.

PCPartPicker part list

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor (R$643.00)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (R$999.00)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (R$589.00)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (R$400.00)
Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case (R$390.00)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (R$520.00)
Total: R$3541.00
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-26 12:07 EDT-0400
 

Cdammen

Member
Quick question about the high-end cards.

When the successors are announced and their release is around the corner, do the cards they are supposed to replace drop in price by like +20% or does the price not budge much? I'm in need of a card in a couple of weeks and I am eyeing the 980GTX Ti here in Sweden.
 

ACE 1991

Member
If I am only interested in gaming, is the 6600K the way to go? I'm reading that more games are taking advantage of the extra stuff the 6700K offers. I'd like to get a CPU that won't be bottleneck for at least 2-3 years.

EDIT: Also, since I'll be upgrading from Sandy bridge, I know I'll need a new Mobo. Is the MSI PC Mate the best budget board I can get while still being able to overclock? Open to sugesstions here, want to get as close to $100 for the motherboard as I can. Also, I'll have to upgrade to DDR4 ram, right?

Another EDIT: I think I might take this opportunity to upgrade to a new tower as well. What mid towers do you guys like that offer good noise dampening? I'm coming from an HAF 912.
 

Megabat

Member
If I am only interested in gaming, is the 6600K the way to go? I'm reading that more games are taking advantage of the extra stuff the 6700K offers. I'd like to get a CPU that won't be bottleneck for at least 2-3 years.

EDIT: Also, since I'll be upgrading from Sandy bridge, I know I'll need a new Mobo. Is the MSI PC Mate the best budget board I can get while still being able to overclock? Open to sugesstions here, want to get as close to $100 for the motherboard as I can. Also, I'll have to upgrade to DDR4 ram, right?

Depending on what games you're playing, the i5 should be fine for at least that long.

Yeah, you'll need a new board - but you may not need new RAM. If you're on a tight budget, you can find a DDR3- compatible board and use your old DIMM's. This depends heavily on how much DDR3 you have and how fast it is. DDR3 versions of Z170 boards tend to be more expensive ($10-20). If you've got more than 16GB of high-quality DDR3, that might be worth keeping. Anything less, and it's better just to upgrade to DDR4. It'll be easier to find for future upgrades, and the cost difference is negligible (decent 16GB kits start around $50).

I think you can do better than that MSI board. Tom's Hardware seems to think highly of this Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-2-Way-CrossFire-Motherboards-GA-Z170-HD3/dp/B012AQGKXC/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1461689200&sr=8-13&keywords=gigabyte+z170

And I do as well. It should be about $95 shipped most places.
 

Faiz

Member
Made a few tweeks to the final list. Tax return deposit came through this morning so ordered everything.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($215.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus H170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($102.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($50.40 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.45 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: *MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($304.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.25 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1103.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-26 12:39 EDT-0400

Gonna be just in time for Overwatch. The video cards come with a copy of th Division and not terribly interested so may end up selling those for a little extra money back.
 

ACE 1991

Member
Made a few tweeks to the final list. Tax return deposit came through this morning so ordered everything.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($215.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus H170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($102.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($50.40 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.45 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: *MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($304.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.25 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1103.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-26 12:39 EDT-0400

Gonna be just in time for Overwatch. The video cards come with a copy of th Division and not terribly interested so may end up selling those for a little extra money back.

Don't you want the K version of the 6600? The one you have won't overclock, which I assume you want to do since you are buying a cooler that will allow you to OC a decent amount.
 

Theonik

Member
Quick question about the high-end cards.

When the successors are announced and their release is around the corner, do the cards they are supposed to replace drop in price by like +20% or does the price not budge much? I'm in need of a card in a couple of weeks and I am eyeing the 980GTX Ti here in Sweden.
People keep asking this. The answer is, there is no official discounts. Cards go out of production a few months before the new cards hit and retailers are free to lose money on remaining stock as they see fit.
 

ACE 1991

Member
Depending on what games you're playing, the i5 should be fine for at least that long.

Yeah, you'll need a new board - but you may not need new RAM. If you're on a tight budget, you can find a DDR3- compatible board and use your old DIMM's. This depends heavily on how much DDR3 you have and how fast it is. DDR3 versions of Z170 boards tend to be more expensive ($10-20). If you've got more than 16GB of high-quality DDR3, that might be worth keeping. Anything less, and it's better just to upgrade to DDR4. It'll be easier to find for future upgrades, and the cost difference is negligible (decent 16GB kits start around $50).

I think you can do better than that MSI board. Tom's Hardware seems to think highly of this Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-2-Way-CrossFire-Motherboards-GA-Z170-HD3/dp/B012AQGKXC/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1461689200&sr=8-13&keywords=gigabyte+z170

And I do as well. It should be about $95 shipped most places.

Great, thanks for the link! Seems like there isn't a whole lot reason to get a 6700K, then. Any input on cases? Thanks again.
 
You can always do a test build outside the case. Actually, a lot of people recommend doing this anyway, to verify that all your parts work.

Yeah, thought about doing this. Would I need to take any extra precautions? I'd be building it on a wood table, but do I need to place anything under the motherboard? Cardboard maybe?
 

Megabat

Member
Quick question about the high-end cards.

When the successors are announced and their release is around the corner, do the cards they are supposed to replace drop in price by like +20% or does the price not budge much? I'm in need of a card in a couple of weeks and I am eyeing the 980GTX Ti here in Sweden.

It varies. When the 970 came out with performance comparable to the 780/780Ti, those cards dropped a bit, but mostly sold out somewhere between $330 (USD) and $550.

Nobody knows how this generation will go down, but I bet the best option will be to pick up used/refurbished cards from people upgrading. I don't know if EVGA B-stock ships to Sweden, but that is a great option - along with any other manufacturer refurbish/reselling programs.
 

Lashley

Why does he wear the mask!?
I can get a prebuilt with

GTX 980ti
i7-6700k
Z170 Chipset with overclock up to 4.4Ghz
32GB DDR4 2133 MHz RAM
WD 3TB SATA 7200rpm hard drive
240GB Solid State Drive
MSI Dragon Watercooling system
Windows 10 pre-installed

for £1650. Worth it?
 

Megabat

Member
Great, thanks for the link! Seems like there isn't a whole lot reason to get a 6700K, then. Any input on cases? Thanks again.

Oh, heck yeah. How much are you okay with spending? Also, I forgot that you may be going for a smaller system. If so, there is a slightly cheaper mATX version of that motherboard.

edit: And and identical board with USB Type-C (the -HD3P) for $5 more. If that matters to you.
 
I'm on mobile, so some things might look awkward.

Lastest modifications in my build... I will order the parts this weekend.

Any suggestions / recommendations are welcome.

* Prices in Brasilian's Real.

PCPartPicker part list

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor (R$643.00)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (R$999.00)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (R$589.00)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (R$400.00)
Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case (R$390.00)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (R$520.00)
Total: R$3541.00
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-26 12:07 EDT-0400

I see no video card. What is the intent of this build?

Not a fan of Gigabyte firmware, either, more of an Asus/MSI guy, go with them if price difference not too big for equivalent board.

You probably don't need the 850 EVO's performance as a boot drive, see if cheaper but modern SSDs at similar capacity exist.

Made a few tweeks to the final list. Tax return deposit came through this morning so ordered everything.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($215.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus H170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($102.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($50.40 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.45 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: *MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($304.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.25 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1103.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-26 12:39 EDT-0400

Gonna be just in time for Overwatch. The video cards come with a copy of th Division and not terribly interested so may end up selling those for a little extra money back.

Looks like an extremely nice set of parts to build with, though I believe you should slightly up-spend to the 6600K and MSI Z170 (Dem recycled names) Gaming 3 so you get to OC your CPU with that cooler of yours - it would have been overkill for a non-OC rig otherwise.

I can get a prebuilt with

GTX 980ti
i7-6700k
Z170 Chipset with overclock up to 4.4Ghz
32GB DDR4 2133 MHz RAM
WD 3TB SATA 7200rpm hard drive
240GB Solid State Drive
MSI Dragon Watercooling system
Windows 10 pre-installed

for £1650. Worth it?

You can probably build a very similar, MSI Gaming-themed rig with equivalent parts and a windowed case for less if you DIY. I'll try right now, expect a part list later.
 

ACE 1991

Member
Oh, heck yeah. How much are you okay with spending? Also, I forgot that you may be going for a smaller system. If so, there is a slightly cheaper mATX version of that motherboard.

edit: And and identical board with USB Type-C (the -HD3P) for $5 more. If that matters to you.

I'd like to spend a hundred or less on a case the same size of the HAF 912 or smaller. not really interested in micro ATX. aesthetics (I like cases that are clean and not ostentatious) and sound dampening are the big things for me.
 
Yeah, thought about doing this. Would I need to take any extra precautions? I'd be building it on a wood table, but do I need to place anything under the motherboard? Cardboard maybe?

I'm not an expert on this, but people usually do this on top of the motherboard box, so yeah I'd use cardboard. Main concern is static electricity.

I'd like to spend a hundred or less on a case the same size of the HAF 912 or smaller. not really interested in micro ATX. aesthetics (I like cases that are clean and not ostentatious) and sound dampening are the big things for me.
You probably want to take a look at the Fractal Design cases. They have a range of different sizes.
 

Megabat

Member
Yeah, thought about doing this. Would I need to take any extra precautions? I'd be building it on a wood table, but do I need to place anything under the motherboard? Cardboard maybe?

You should usually put something down under the board - to protect the bottom of the board as well as the table. More importantly, PCI cards (GPU) have little tabs on their I/O shields that hang below the board.

Conveniently, the absolute best thing for this is the box the motherboard came in!
 

Faiz

Member
Looks like an extremely nice set of parts to build with, though I believe you should slightly up-spend to the 6600K and MSI Z170 (Dem recycled names) Gaming 3 so you get to OC your CPU with that cooler of yours - it would have been overkill for a non-OC rig otherwise.


Don't you want the K version of the 6600? The one you have won't overclock, which I assume you want to do since you are buying a cooler that will allow you to OC a decent amount.

Nope. I talked about it last couple times I posted projected builds (not that I expected everyone to see it haha). I've bought OCable processors in the past and never end up doing it. Buying the cooler mainly for quieter operation than a stock one.
 

Megabat

Member
I'm not an expert on this, but people usually do this on top of the motherboard box, so yeah I'd use cardboard. Main concern is static electricity.


You probably want to take a look at the Fractal Design cases. They have a range of different sizes.

In this vein, also remember never to put any components on top of an anti-static bag. They are Faraday cages - the charge collects on the outside. It's not like they purposely charge the bag at the factory, but it's more potentially harmful than something like a tabletop.

This is a really good way to weed out bad used hardware. If the seller pictures the item on top of an anti-static bag (or - shudder- carpet) you know not to buy from them.
 

Megabat

Member
I'm not an expert on this, but people usually do this on top of the motherboard box, so yeah I'd use cardboard. Main concern is static electricity.


You probably want to take a look at the Fractal Design cases. They have a range of different sizes.

Yup, easiest answer ever: Fractal Design Define R5.
 

Cdammen

Member
People keep asking this. The answer is, there is no official discounts. Cards go out of production a few months before the new cards hit and retailers are free to lose money on remaining stock as they see fit.
It varies. When the 970 came out with performance comparable to the 780/780Ti, those cards dropped a bit, but mostly sold out somewhere between $330 (USD) and $550.

Nobody knows how this generation will go down, but I bet the best option will be to pick up used/refurbished cards from people upgrading. I don't know if EVGA B-stock ships to Sweden, but that is a great option - along with any other manufacturer refurbish/reselling programs.
Thanks! I'm one of those people that buy a card an stick with it several years so I don't follow along the PC hardware scene that much even though I'm a PC gamer. I just see the prices fluctuate wildly for some lower-end cards and thought that it might be the same for the higher ends as well.
 

Seronei

Member
So I've been thinking of upgrading my GPU when Polaris is released, but I'm still rocking a PCI-E 2 Motherboard(MSI P67A-GD55) with a 2500k and I see very little reason to upgrade my CPU at this point.

How will a PCI-E 2 Motherboard impact me if I upgrade to Polaris? (presumably the same as if I got a 390? But how would that impact me?)
 
Appreciate it, cheers

Here we go! Including the ODD, it's a bit more expensive, but barely so. Change the case and/or cooler to your tastes - I have pretty much set it so that everything is top in quality. Do you know the exact specs of said pre-build? Links?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£288.29 @ More Computers)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£74.99 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£141.66 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: G.Skill Value Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£94.50 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£70.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£114.71 @ CCL Computers)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (£563.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: NZXT Phantom 530 (White) ATX Full Tower Case (£94.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£100.91 @ CCL Computers)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer (£29.59 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full (32/64-bit) (£85.88 @ More Computers)
Total: £1660.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-26 18:43 BST+0100

Nope. I talked about it last couple times I posted projected builds (not that I expected everyone to see it haha). I've bought OCable processors in the past and never end up doing it. Buying the cooler mainly for quieter operation than a stock one.

Well, remember that overclocking is very easy to do! Just make sure to do the OCing only after you have installed Windows, drivers, and all necessary software. Lots of guides put there. That extra $30 of so might just end up getting you a lot more CPU!

Oh and the Z170 boards tend to give you more features, as well as also letting you play with high speed RAM, including pre-rated XMP kits.
 
I'm not an expert on this, but people usually do this on top of the motherboard box, so yeah I'd use cardboard. Main concern is static electricity.

You should usually put something down under the board - to protect the bottom of the board as well as the table. More importantly, PCI cards (GPU) have little tabs on their I/O shields that hang below the board.

Conveniently, the absolute best thing for this is the box the motherboard came in!

Awesome, thank you! I know what I'm doing once I'm off work now!
 

ACE 1991

Member
Oh, heck yeah. How much are you okay with spending? Also, I forgot that you may be going for a smaller system. If so, there is a slightly cheaper mATX version of that motherboard.

edit: And and identical board with USB Type-C (the -HD3P) for $5 more. If that matters to you.

Awesome, thank you!

I wasn't planning on upgrading, but my buddy just got a job at Intel and get me a 6600K for like $120. The 2500K is still great, but newer titles are having some frame pacing issues so I'd rather just drop the cash now and be totally updated for the next few years.
 

Faiz

Member
Well, remember that overclocking is very easy to do! Just make sure to do the OCing only after you have installed Windows, drivers, and all necessary software. Lots of guides put there. That extra $30 of so might just end up getting you a lot more CPU!

Oh and the Z170 boards tend to give you more features, as well as also letting you play with high speed RAM, including pre-rated XMP kits.

Well thanks for the input but, well, it's kinda late lol. I've posted the build for comments before this was just the final post-purchase report. :)

Honestly feel like I'm pushing the budget here as it is. I was budgeted at 1250, but that had to come down a little. After shipping on the cases (building 2 one for me and one for my wife) it pushed us right up against the new budget of 1150.
 
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