CreepingFear
Member
If the 6700k and DDR 4 memory does not become available soon, I guess I might be able to afford a 1TB SSD. I wonder if I should spend an extra $90 on the Pro vs the EVO Samsung 850.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
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I just had a Samsung 840 Evo die on me yesterday, had it for about year and a half.
Is that sort of thing common with SSDs, do they just completely die on you? I've had dozens or so HDDs fail over the years, but there were always some warning signs. This thing is totally dead though, not even recognized in BIOS. Luckily I had a backup...
Is that sort of thing common with SSDs, do they just completely die on you? I've had dozens or so HDDs fail over the years, but there were always some warning signs. This thing is totally dead though, not even recognized in BIOS. Luckily I had a backup...
I can't believe that Microsoft STILL haven't sorted Windows out as far as upgrading machines goes. Unbelievable. This is 2015 ffs, I should be able to buy/build a new machine and just slap my OS hard drive from one to the other without having to install TWO operating systems (Windows 7 to get my free upgrade and then Windows 10 afterwards). Microsoft are bloomin useless
(I have to do this in two parts unfortunately because if I don't spend the money on PC parts when I have it the cash won't last until I get my next chunk of cash 6 months later. I'm very bad at saving money lol
Yup, I'll be using my PSU from my old PC. Like someone above I went REALLY overboard with my PSU on my last build. I think it's something daft like 850W lmfao. I know I'll need at least 750W for whatever GPU I end up getting.
I'm starting to toy with the idea of getting a Radeon R9 Fury X instead of a 390X. Am getting the PC built in November then will get the GPU in May I reckon. Then I can sell my current rig to a mate of mine. All he'll need to do is get a hard drive and power supply.
Thanks for your help and advice!
)If you're going for the 1TB+ model, then not worth it to get the Pro. The bigger 850 EVO drives share a lot in common with the Pro.
There isn't a noticeable difference in performance as they both saturate the SATA 6Gbps speed limits.
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1398?vs=1252
I'm upgrading my PC, I've got plans for the RAM (adding 16 GB to my build, going from 8 GB to 24 GB). Also planning to upgrade with the graphics card, a friend of mine did a build last year with the Gigabyte GTX 970. Not a top of the line card anymore, but in terms of price-to-performance, does anyone have a strong opinion on it/ much better suggestion?
For reference, this is replacing an EVGA GTX 570 that has worked very well for me, but is not quite keeping up with the gaming curve these days.
For reference, this is replacing an EVGA GTX 570 that has worked very well for me, but is not quite keeping up with the gaming curve these days.
CreepingFear
Member
Hey Man! You find the Smokey level lonely, huh? I'll join you then. Fuck it! Pro it is.
theSlacker
Member
This seems the best place to ask. Can anyone recommend a set of computer speakers? I'm getting them for someone else who has no need for anything expensive and I just have no experience with the low end of speakers. Personally I would get them an amp with some small bookshelf speakers but it really isn't what they are interested in. They have headphones for normal use/gaming and just want something that can stay on their desk for when they don't want to put them on.
I got some Polaroid 2.1 speakers from Asda a while back and they're great. A good bass response and you can get a good bit of volume from them without distortion.
Tech-gaf, could I please request some help?
I'm getting poor reception (stable, but slow) with my wifi. I'm wondering how to extend or boost the signal. Having done a little research, it seems there are several options available to me:
- Purchase a wifi booster/extender. This appears to be the least effective option in terms of speed (double the range for half the power).
- Purchase a second router. Connect the second router to the modem by ethernet cable to create a second hotspot. Configure this router to be on a different channel (not sure what this means) to avoid interference (of wireless signal?).
- Purchase a ethernet-over-powerline device. I understand this option the least. It appears to connect the router to the device by the electrical wires that run across the house. As a result, you are essentially creating a second wifi hotspot.
Any suggestions? I can barely stream YouTube at 240p as it currently stands.
I'm getting poor reception (stable, but slow) with my wifi. I'm wondering how to extend or boost the signal. Having done a little research, it seems there are several options available to me:
- Purchase a wifi booster/extender. This appears to be the least effective option in terms of speed (double the range for half the power).
- Purchase a second router. Connect the second router to the modem by ethernet cable to create a second hotspot. Configure this router to be on a different channel (not sure what this means) to avoid interference (of wireless signal?).
- Purchase a ethernet-over-powerline device. I understand this option the least. It appears to connect the router to the device by the electrical wires that run across the house. As a result, you are essentially creating a second wifi hotspot.
Any suggestions? I can barely stream YouTube at 240p as it currently stands.
Hi, tried googling this, but I found contradictory answers.
I'm slowly building a new PC, and I'm buying the memory tomorrow. I can buy 2x4GB RAM or 1x8GB and the second option is cheaper by a decent amount of money.
I know having 2x4GB RAM is better because of the dual channel, but will this difference be noticeable in gaming? (framerate) to justify the extra price? (I read some people saying you wouldn't notice it in games).
I'm slowly building a new PC, and I'm buying the memory tomorrow. I can buy 2x4GB RAM or 1x8GB and the second option is cheaper by a decent amount of money.
I know having 2x4GB RAM is better because of the dual channel, but will this difference be noticeable in gaming? (framerate) to justify the extra price? (I read some people saying you wouldn't notice it in games).
Goldenmoney
Member
How much difference in money exactly? I'm not seeing much of a difference on pcpartpicker. Seems like most is 40 usd.
Yeah, it's real lonely up on the mountaintop.
I welcome more people to come and enjoy the gorgeous view
rendered in 4K. lol
I'm not an american and hardware prices are weird on my country. It's not really a BIG difference (I'd say around $60 2x4GB (1300 MHz) vs $50 1x8GB (1800 MHz)), but it is enough buy a better mouse or PSU, if the difference is really negligible in gaming like some people say, maybe I should buy the cheaper RAM and improve something else since I'm on a really low budget.
But if it helps with the framerate, I can buy the 2x4GB RAM.
Powerline is the simplest and best way. They come with two adapters. One, you plug into the wall socket near your router and run a lan cable to it. Second, plug it into the wall socket near your PC and run a cable to your PC. The only issue is possible electrical interference. If you have it, speeds and latency could be terrible.
Second option, if your router allows it, the next option is changing to larger antennas. This should offer better signal strength.
Third, wifi extender.
As for getting a second router, I don't see the point. If it sits close to the modem, your range and signal strength won't change much. If you run a long cable to get the router closer to your PC, more simple to just do wifi extender.
Hey, everyone! I wonder if you could help me here.
I live in Brazil, which means that every item here is way more expensive than other places. I have been planning to upgrade for a while now but, considering this, the best chance I have is to buy parts as people I know go to another country and can buy for me.
Someone I know is going to Canada next month. Two other people I know will be coming back here to spend the holidays from Canada and the US. So I thought about asking them for parts.
My current PC is:
i7 2600k (was overclocked, but I disabled it, since I didn't really need it for now)
Noctua Cooler NH-D14
16 GB of DDR3 RAM
AMD 7970
Motherboard Asus P8Z68-M Pro GEN3
I was thinking about replacing everything but the RAM (or is DDR4 that worth it already?), but with the GPU being the last one, since I can wait for Pascal. As for the cooler, it would be because of socket compatibility.
So what I planned was to ask for either the motherboard or the CPU in October and the other one in December. As for the cooler, I'm not sure if anyone could bring it, but I could find another way (these are a bit more affordable here).
My question is: which do I go first? Mobo or CPU? Is there any interesting model coming that it would be important to wait until December? Also, which model should I go for in October? I've been saving for a while and I want the best I can at 60 fps with games like The Witcher 3, future Frostbite games (from BioWare, Mirror's Edge...) and currently demanding games that, even if I don't play them, at least could help make it a bit more future-proof.
As for resolution, at first it will be 1080p. I could do downsampling. And later, considering monitor prices here in Brazil, maybe I could go up, so please consider that as well.
What do you think?
I live in Brazil, which means that every item here is way more expensive than other places. I have been planning to upgrade for a while now but, considering this, the best chance I have is to buy parts as people I know go to another country and can buy for me.
Someone I know is going to Canada next month. Two other people I know will be coming back here to spend the holidays from Canada and the US. So I thought about asking them for parts.
My current PC is:
i7 2600k (was overclocked, but I disabled it, since I didn't really need it for now)
Noctua Cooler NH-D14
16 GB of DDR3 RAM
AMD 7970
Motherboard Asus P8Z68-M Pro GEN3
I was thinking about replacing everything but the RAM (or is DDR4 that worth it already?), but with the GPU being the last one, since I can wait for Pascal. As for the cooler, it would be because of socket compatibility.
So what I planned was to ask for either the motherboard or the CPU in October and the other one in December. As for the cooler, I'm not sure if anyone could bring it, but I could find another way (these are a bit more affordable here).
My question is: which do I go first? Mobo or CPU? Is there any interesting model coming that it would be important to wait until December? Also, which model should I go for in October? I've been saving for a while and I want the best I can at 60 fps with games like The Witcher 3, future Frostbite games (from BioWare, Mirror's Edge...) and currently demanding games that, even if I don't play them, at least could help make it a bit more future-proof.
As for resolution, at first it will be 1080p. I could do downsampling. And later, considering monitor prices here in Brazil, maybe I could go up, so please consider that as well.
What do you think?
I can't believe that Microsoft STILL haven't sorted Windows out as far as upgrading machines goes. Unbelievable. This is 2015 ffs, I should be able to buy/build a new machine and just slap my OS hard drive from one to the other without having to install TWO operating systems (Windows 7 to get my free upgrade and then Windows 10 afterwards). Microsoft are bloomin useless
I have to do this in two parts unfortunately because if I don't spend the money on PC parts when I have it the cash won't last until I get my next chunk of cash 6 months later. I'm very bad at saving money lol
Yup, I'll be using my PSU from my old PC. Like someone above I went REALLY overboard with my PSU on my last build. I think it's something daft like 850W lmfao. I know I'll need at least 750W for whatever GPU I end up getting.
I'm starting to toy with the idea of getting a Radeon R9 Fury X instead of a 390X. Am getting the PC built in November then will get the GPU in May I reckon. Then I can sell my current rig to a mate of mine. All he'll need to do is get a hard drive and power supply.
Thanks for your help and advice!
It's not that they're useless, they want you to buy a new Windows license for a new computer. Once you've done the upgrade, you never have to do it again, you can just do a clean install of Windows 10 which will activate automatically on the same hardware. I hope I'm reading what you want to do correctly.
No problem, I hope your PC planning works out. Maybe put the money into a short term deposit for 6 months or something if you have trouble saving up?
What are your system specs and what are you using the PC for? Not to question you or anything, but I wonder what sort of work you do that requires 24GB of RAM?
The GTX 970 was and is still a middle-high range card. It's a bit hard to compare them directly, I can show you a rough comparison, though. The GTX 570 is roughly equal to the GTX 660, and here's how the GTX 970 compares to the GTX 660. A very potent upgrade.
If you're looking for alternative suggestions, then what sort of games do you play and what sort of performance are you looking for? Just 30FPS or 60FPS? Are you playing at 1080p? Are you looking to max out games, or are high-ish settings acceptable? The GTX 970 is pretty decent for price to performance, it won't max out the latest games but it will do 60FPS or close to that at reasonably high settings, depending on the game.
Performance-wise there's little to no difference as few games are bottlenecked by system RAM speed or bandwidth. According to these tests by Gamersnexus and a reddit user it's unlikely that the framerate would change if at all . If going with single channel RAM gets you a better mouse or power supply, that will definitely be worth the difference.
Depends on how much you think you want to spend. It'd be cheaper to go with a Haswell processor and Z97 motherboard, you would also be able to reuse your existing RAM with it. If you wanted to spend more on the latest parts, then a Skylake processor and Z170 motherboard would be what you want. Either would be just a small to moderate improvement over your current i7 2600K processor, though. Especially when overclocked your i7 2600K is still very close to Haswell i7 4770K in performance. Skylake would be a bit more reasonable to upgrade to, I guess.
You do not have to replace the cooler. Your Noctua cooler is still very top-notch when it comes to cooling, and will still be compatible with the latest motherboards. The mounting system for the newer 1150 and 1151 socket hasn't changed.
Wag
Member
So I'm pretty happy with my new setup. It seems to be stable /5820k@4.3Ghz. A few things irk me tho- Motherboard sound chip is crap. Realtek ALC892, worse than the one I had in my Z77 motherboard. Unfortunately since I'm buying a 3rd 980Ti I won't have room on the motherboard for a dedicated soundcard. I installed Razer Surround software for headphones and it helps but it's still not enough.
This motherboard's SATA controller doesn't support port multipliers so it can only see 1 drive my Mediasonic 4-bay external HD bay. I needed to buy a PCI-e SATA controller card that supported port multiplier. This build is costing me more than I expected.
This motherboard's SATA controller doesn't support port multipliers so it can only see 1 drive my Mediasonic 4-bay external HD bay. I needed to buy a PCI-e SATA controller card that supported port multiplier. This build is costing me more than I expected.
Since I've been saving for a while, I want the best parts currently available, also considering that I'd like to be as future-proof as possible, since I don't have many opportunities to upgrade.
Also, I would have to replace my cooler. My Noctua is amazing, but is not compatible with 1150 and 1151 socket. Only 1366, 1156, 1155, and 775.
So, the questions that remain:
- Is there any upcoming mobo or CPU model between October and December that I should wait?
- Which should I go for in October (CPU or mobo)? If a CPU, Skylake? Maybe 6700k? If a mobo, Z170?
- Would I have to change my RAM?
sssstententen
Member
If you were really desperate for great sound you could always go for a DAC/AMP stack. Basic ones like the Schiict stack go for around $200 or you could but a combo dac/amp like the Fio e10 for a little under $100. It would sit outside your computer so there's no worries about internal space.
No, you don't understand, sockets 1150/1151/1155/1156 all have the same heatsink mounting holes and dimensions. Your Noctua heatsink is most definitely compatible.
1. For processors, nothing new is coming out. If you want to go with Skylake, then you should know that for now, only the i5 6600K seems to be available. The i7 6700K still isn't widely available. That may change by October. As for motherboards.. what features are you looking for?
2. How much do you intend to spend? It is easier to recommend parts according to a budget rather than the other way around.
3. If you buy new Skylake parts, then yes, you will need newer DDR4 as well. If you decide to go with Haswell parts, then you can reuse your existing RAM.
Have you considered a USB sound card?
Shining Sunshine
Banned
Hmmm I have a 560ti currently in my old PC. I'm still waiting for skylake to hit stores.
Is there any issue just swapping in my Fury Tri-X temporarily? I'm switching Nvidia to AMD, so driver issues?
I'm pretty sure my PSU will be able to handle it.
Is there any issue just swapping in my Fury Tri-X temporarily? I'm switching Nvidia to AMD, so driver issues?
I'm pretty sure my PSU will be able to handle it.
If it fits in your case and the PSU supports it, why not if you want to? Just remove your existing drivers with Display Driver Uninstaller.
I'm sitting on a GTX 980 Ti that I haven't opened yet, I'm going to continue resisting the urge to put it in the Pentium G3258-based PC I'm using right now.
Shining Sunshine
Banned
It was almost a sad story that it wouldn't fit my case, but it will fit if it sticks into a hole in the HDD bay, and new video card design put the connectors on the side.
I guess I'll try. I was worried I might damage it or something.
Edit: I don't have a disc drive anymore, so should I download the video card driver first when windows detects it?
Edit: Well fuck me. It didn't fit after all. This video card is hella big.
As for the Noctua, this is the one I got. Think I won't need to change, then?
1- I'd need something similar to the current one I have:
-DVI and HDMI;
- At least 5 USB slots in the back, while a couple in the front would be enough;
- USB 3.1 and USB Type-C would be interesting, considering I want to be future-proof? If so, that's a plus;
- Wi-Fi support;
- Bluetooth not really necessary. I don't even use it now. But if the model I need has it, it's OK;
- I have one SSD and one HDD, so SATA 3 and 2 support, of course. Not sure if I would like to add more drives in the future, but I'd like to keep that possible;
- I'd like to go for Skylake, so obviously support for that and DDR4;
2- It's a bit hard to say that because I'll buy in "stages", so I can keep saving for the rest if I buy just one in October, for example. With that in mind, no need for anything overly expensive that I won't be using, of course. I sometimes use Adobe software, so of course 16 GB of DDR4 RAM and an i7 CPU would be important.
3- Which model would you recommend for RAM? I know I didn't provide a budget, but again, I'd probably get it in December, so I can save a bit more.
Do you really need three 980 Ti's though? SLI with 2 cards is the sweet spot. I've got two 980 Ti's myself and I find them plenty enough. I also have an ASUS Xonar Essence STX sound card which I just managed to squeeze in under my second card.
If sound is important to you, a good sound card and/or DAC/AMP rather than another 980 Ti is probably more worthwhile IMO.
SpeedySwaf
Member
Posting an update on my progress: I originally reported I couldn't get anything to show on my display. I talked to my coworkers and apparently the issue was that I had plugged the HDMI into my motherboard when it should've gone to the graphics card. Sure enough, this time I got the Gigabyte logo.
Now what came on next was a message saying "reboot and select a proper boot device or insert boot media and press any key." In some of the guides I followed, I don't know if I ever heard of this screen. Should I be seeing this, or is this the part where I start inserting the Disks that came with my parts? (Windows 10, Gigabyte motherboard disk, EVGA graphics card disk.)
Now what came on next was a message saying "reboot and select a proper boot device or insert boot media and press any key." In some of the guides I followed, I don't know if I ever heard of this screen. Should I be seeing this, or is this the part where I start inserting the Disks that came with my parts? (Windows 10, Gigabyte motherboard disk, EVGA graphics card disk.)
Are you powering speakers or headphones? In either case you can get a USB DAC + Amp and get much better sound quality than just about any PC sound card will give you.
Have you installed an OS by chance? This is probably what it is indicating (put in the Windows 10 DVD). The motherboard DVD and graphics card DVD come once you've installed WIndows.
Have a Nice Day
Member
Can anyone recommend me a good PCIe capture card for streaming?
Have you though about using an external capture unit? A lot of the internal cards have can have some pretty heavy system requirements depending on how you want to capture.
I also had luck using Intel Quick Sync to really lessen the burden on streaming on the same PC I played on when I was experimenting with streaming.
Have a Nice Day
Member
I don't have problems streaming PC games with my current setup (OC'd 1090t + OC'd gtx 680), I just want one to capture form consoles. And I want an internal one for convenience reasons, I'll probably make a form factor dedicated streaming machine in the future and I want to be able to have that when I do build the machine later. My experience with external cards wasn't that great since most of the ones I used tend to have stupid problems that I can do nothing about like overheating, not to mention the inconvenience of having too many cables to route and manage.
Do you want to stream/capture in 1080p/60fps and the such? Most internal capture cards have some heavy storage requirements if you want to do something like capture at 1080p/60fps uncompressed and such -- though I haven't looked into this in about a year so maybe things have changed.
Thanks for the response. I use my system for gaming and programming; the RAM is for the large data sets that I work with. Recently hit a couple of data sets that fill up the 8 GB with little effort, and cause a lot of swapping. Napkin calcs figure it ending about a year from now. So, I figured I'd boost the RA, and see if I can keep the data sets in memory, or otherwise minimize the swapping.
I'm liking the upgrade, pretty pimp. Thanks for the weigh in!
Thanks!
I suppose if you really wanted to change the NH-D14 for another cooler, you could. There's not a lot that's significantly better for the money, you could get the NH-D15 or NH-D15S for around $100 CAD.
1. An Asus or Gigabyte motherboard around the $200 CAD mark should cover nearly all of your points. I'd recommend any of the following as a minimum:
Gigabyte Z170X Gaming 3
Gigabyte Z170X-UD3
Asus Z170-A
I tried to look for some MSI suggestions, but it seems that none of their motherboards up to the $230 CAD mark include USB type C. As for wifi, usually wifi connectivity isn't a built-in option at that price range , so I'd also recommend a wifi adaptor PCI-E card. Wifi adaptors are available and shouldn't run more than.. $20 or 30?
2. You should opt for buying the i7 6700K if it's available in October. If if still isn't available, then post back here a week or two before your friend comes to Canada to buy parts, so we can recommend something available and in stock for him to buy.
3. I would recommend DDR4 RAM rated at 2666MHz or higher, depending on the cost. The higher speed may benefit certain applications, and won't cost too much more than 2133/2400MHz RAM, hopefully. Again, which set to get specifically will depend on cost and availability. I ordered 2x8GB of 3000MHz RAM three weeks ago and it still hasn't shipped..
Have a Nice Day
Member
I would love to be able to stream at 60fps, resolution doesn't matter as long as it's not smaller than 720p and can accept a wide variety of outputs (480p, 576p, 576i, etc.). Storage won't be a problem.
Edit: The only two card that I know of are AverMedia Live Gamer HD C985 and Blackmagic Intensity Pro 4K. I'm hearing all kind of bad stuff about the blackmagic one from almost everyone.
I looked pretty closly into the Blackmagic. The biggest knocks against it back when I was looking at it (I was not looking at the Pro 4K) were the heavy system requirements. It needed something ridiculous like RAID0'd SSD's to capture uncompressed 1080p/60. Since you aren't interested in that I'm guessing you might be able to get away without those requirements but I'd still be slightly worried about it impacting performance while I played games.
I did not see the Avermedia card when I was doing my research; I ended up going with an external capture card which was definitely annoying in the sense it required quite a bit of cabling (especially since I needed to strip HDCP from the PS3 to stream properly) but it worked fine for 720p streaming.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
After a bunch of messing around with my desktop - replacing the CPU cooler with a Cooler Master Hyper TX3 EVO, adding in an additional intake fan, and replacing the rear exhaust fan with a better one and relocating the old exhaust as a top exhaust after the CPU cooler's exhaust, using Corsair AF120 Performance Edition for both new fans (yay, twin packs!) - the desktop appears to run much cooler.
The right side of the case no longer gets warm during CPU stress testing. The video card now gets to idle below 40C instead of 45 and is now getting much needed intake airflow. And I finally figured out why the system was rattling at startup - turns out the video card's PEG power cable was touching the fan (shroud) and causing a racket there instead of the CPU. (The fans run when the system starts and when playing a heavy video game - stress testing with Unigine Valley let the cat out of the bag, and I finally got to resolve it after finding the real cause.)
Now to see if MGSV stops making the entire case act like a sauna, warming up the entire system. Hopefully with the needed fan upgrades, that won't be the case. Or be less problematic.
Speaking of which, from this point, I wonder what else can I add to the desktop to make it more complete? Modifying a system feels so... fun. For some reason.
The right side of the case no longer gets warm during CPU stress testing. The video card now gets to idle below 40C instead of 45 and is now getting much needed intake airflow. And I finally figured out why the system was rattling at startup - turns out the video card's PEG power cable was touching the fan (shroud) and causing a racket there instead of the CPU. (The fans run when the system starts and when playing a heavy video game - stress testing with Unigine Valley let the cat out of the bag, and I finally got to resolve it after finding the real cause.)
Now to see if MGSV stops making the entire case act like a sauna, warming up the entire system. Hopefully with the needed fan upgrades, that won't be the case. Or be less problematic.
Speaking of which, from this point, I wonder what else can I add to the desktop to make it more complete? Modifying a system feels so... fun. For some reason.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Related to the cooler, I'd only change it if it isn't compatible with the socket. From what you are saying, my model is?
1- Correct me if I'm wrong, but none of these motherboards make it possible to have a USB 3.1/Type C in the front panel, right? At least one would be nice. Not a deal breaker, though, so only if you know one and it's not MUCH more expensive.
2- From what you are saying, the best idea would be to buy a motherboard in October. A 6700k will surely be more available in December, right?
3- Any recommended brands?
Sorry if old, but those needing SSD should hop on this today: http://slickdeals.net/f/8091950-san...usb-drives-ssds-more-up-to-60-off#commentsBox
480GB SanDisk Ultra II 2.5" SSD Drive (SDSSDHII-480G-G25) $127.99
480GB SanDisk Ultra II 2.5" SSD Drive (SDSSDHII-480G-G25) $127.99
Yes, I am telling you that the cooler is compatible with the socket. Noctua says so on their website.
1. There are no computer cases with frontal USB 3.1 or type C ports yet, such a thing will not be available until late 2015 or even 2016. Until then your best option for that would be a 5.25" front panel adaptor like these ASRock or Asus accessories [1][2][3].
2. Yes, that would seem to be the case.
3. There aren't any brands that you can really go wrong with. As far as I know, all RAM manufacturers offer lifetime warranty and none are poorly performing.
OK, thank you for your help! It's really appreciated!
JoeyJungle
Banned
So I tried overclocking my 980ti yesterday, and my PC froze while playing MGS V (a bunch of artifacts appeared during a loading screen, and then my PC was completely unresponsive). I tried doing a hard restart, and my PC was having trouble booting. I let it sit for a while, and everything seems to work fine, except now when I stretch windows really fast I get this weird artifacting.
I was keeping an eye on the temps, and they never went above 80C. I tried uninstalling/reinstalling my graphics drivers, but when I tried to reinstall it said no compatible graphics hardware was detected. I did a system restore to a few days ago, and now everything seems to be OK except for that weird artifacting while stretching windows. Also, I think I'm getting a lot more texture pop-in in MGS, but that also might be my imagination.
Did I screw something up? Can I fix it? I didn't have a super extreme overclock, it was +220mhz core clock and +590mhz memory clock, and seemed stable until everything crashed.
I was keeping an eye on the temps, and they never went above 80C. I tried uninstalling/reinstalling my graphics drivers, but when I tried to reinstall it said no compatible graphics hardware was detected. I did a system restore to a few days ago, and now everything seems to be OK except for that weird artifacting while stretching windows. Also, I think I'm getting a lot more texture pop-in in MGS, but that also might be my imagination.
Did I screw something up? Can I fix it? I didn't have a super extreme overclock, it was +220mhz core clock and +590mhz memory clock, and seemed stable until everything crashed.
Sounds like it's unstable. Try a lower overclock. Even if it seemed stable, it's not actually stable until it's totally stable. Simply because it's stable doing one thing doesn't mean it will be stable doing other things, sometimes certain games or programs can stress the graphics card in unexpected ways that will expose how seemingly stable OC settings aren't totally stable.
SpeedySwaf
Member
No, this is a first time build, so everything's fresh. I've read about going into the motherboard bios to tweak settings, but is that not required? Will the OS disk do something similar once I install it?
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