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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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For 4k gaming you still need 3 980Tis. Two cards are still under powered for the newest games like Witcher 3.

As for DAC, I'll get one eventually. I fooled around with the software settings/equalizer and find it mostly adequate. I game almost exclusively using a pair of Audio-Technica AD700s. Nice cans.

I have an old Soundblaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio PCI-e pulled from an MSI motherboard. It's got to be better than the Realtek chip. I'm tempted to try it out.

Are there any DACs that support Dolby Headphone (or Atmos)?

Oh, BTW, I think I got my 19200 memory stable @ 3200 at stock voltage. Crazy stuff.


I'm sorry but this is bs. I'm running witcher 3 at 4k on dual 970s at max graphics with 50-60fps. You do not need 3 980s by any stretch of the imagination.
 

RGM79

Member
I finally decided to build a new pc but have some questions beforehand I hope someone can answer.

First of all, from my old build I can keep my HDD, cd burner and psu I think. Budget is around 600€ for the rest. I actually only play CSGO and occasionally Fifa and Dota 2 so a cheaper pc would also suffice I guess but I don't want to buy a pc solely for CSGO that willl be completely useless in a year or two for everything else. Also I want to keep the option open of playing newer games. Doesn't have to be ultra settings tho medium is enough.

Also I'm sick of buying cheap pc's where I have to upgrade the whole system in just a couple years.
So my plan is to buy this pc, if necessary upgrade only the graphic card in 2 years and then upgrade the whole system in 4-5 years. So do you think these components will be still good even in ~4 years to play the newest games in at least medium settings?

Intel i5-4460
Crucial 8GB DDR3-1600
ASRock H97M Pro4

As for the graphic card, I was thinking about the Radeon 270x. I know it's more than enough for CSGO, Fifa and Dota but would I be able to play newer games with at least 30 fps for the next 2 years? Also will my current psu Be Quiet Pure Power L7 430w be enough for said components?
And what case would you recommend till ca. 50€?

Thanks

For that build, 430 watts is a bit low but should be ok. If you do go up to a higher end overclockable i5 processor, it is highly recommended to get a stronger power supply to be able to handle the extra wattage needed for overclocking and future upgrades. That may bring up the cost, though. If you want something that lasts longer, unfortunately that will come with added costs.

Ugh wish these Skylake mini itx boards would get released.

What's the best way to do storage on a PC now adays? Get a fast 150 SSD for windows and programs. Then a big slower 500-1TB SSD?

The way SSDs are currently designed, generally speaking >240GB SSDs are somewhat faster than the <128GB models. Here's an example.
 

Firebrand

Member
Heads up for people jumping onto the Skylake train: Motherboards have shipped with an "FLCK" setting of 800Mhz in the UEFI settings, but should run at 1000MHz for slightly better discrete graphics performance. Wait for UEFI updates from the motherboard vendor, or change the value manually. (Anandtech)

The default value of the FCLK is at 800 MHz for both mobile and desktop Skylake processors, and it is this value that all the motherboard manufacturers have validated their systems on &#8211; such as overclocking and margins due to external environmental factors. However, the Intel recommended value for desktops, as dictated in their &#8216;tuning guide&#8217; for motherboard manufacturers was 1000 MHz, or the 10x ratio setting. The recommended value for laptops is still the 8x ratio setting.
 
Woo! I am now posting from my new PC!

I had to reinstall Windows 10 fresh, and then download the drivers onto a USB drive (in a dumb move, I was using the wrong drivers in the first place). After that it was just a matter of getting everything else installed. There is a weird issue where the graphics freak out on the log in screen, though after I type in my password I get to the desktop easily enough.

Now to download Steam and see what else this thing can do!
 
I'm stuck.

I've considered getting the 980Ti for months now but there are things that keep running through my mind.

1. How much longer will we have to wait for Pascal?
2. Will the 1080(or whatever they call it)be better or on par with the 980Ti?
3. The jump to 1440p doesn't seem significant enough to justify losing performance compared to 1080p
4. Deciding on a monitor is also causing a problem because of the 980Ti and the wait for Pascal.
5. I stream on Twitch and want a completely new monitor setup. I want to play my console games on one and PC games on the other. I've seen a couple of really nice Dell IPS monitors at 24" that would be perfect for both needs, but I keep struggling with "should I finally make a jump to 1440p or 144hz"
6. Colors mean a lot to me and so does performance. I know many will say "just wait for some of the 1440p 144hz IPS monitors coming out in the next year." The 980Ti is a nice card, but it's not going to play games at max settings for 2-3yrs(which is usually how long I wait for a GPU upgrade)at 90FPS, either. If I get the 980Ti, sticking with 1080p is more a safe bet to keep games running at least 60-70FPS high settings for a few years.
7. It seems a decent chunk of the monitor companies are moving away from 1080p. It makes me feel if I wait, I'll only be waiting for companies to bring out more 1440p-4K monitors.

Decisions man...dem decisions...So difficult. I have enough money to get most of this stuff now, but something in the back of my mind is telling me I need to wait a bit longer.
 

RGM79

Member
I'm stuck.

I've considered getting the 980Ti for months now but there are things that keep running through my mind.

1. How much longer will we have to wait for Pascal?
2. Will the 1080(or whatever they call it)be better or on par with the 980Ti?
3. The jump to 1440p doesn't seem significant enough to justify losing performance compared to 1080p
4. Deciding on a monitor is also causing a problem because of the 980Ti and the wait for Pascal.
5. I stream on Twitch and want a completely new monitor setup. I want to play my console games on one and PC games on the other. I've seen a couple of really nice Dell IPS monitors at 24" that would be perfect for both needs, but I keep struggling with "should I finally make a jump to 1440p or 144hz"
6. Colors mean a lot to me and so does performance. I know many will say "just wait for some of the 1440p 144hz IPS monitors coming out in the next year." The 980Ti is a nice card, but it's not going to play games at max settings for 2-3yrs(which is usually how long I wait for a GPU upgrade)at 90FPS, either. If I get the 980Ti, sticking with 1080p is more a safe bet to keep games running at least 60-70FPS high settings for a few years.
7. It seems a decent chunk of the monitor companies are moving away from 1080p. It makes me feel if I wait, I'll only be waiting for companies to bring out more 1440p-4K monitors.

Decisions man...dem decisions...So difficult. I have enough money to get most of this stuff now, but something in the back of my mind is telling me I need to wait a bit longer.

1. Around a year.
2. No one knows.
3. That's up to you. Personally I don't see a need to go beyond 1080p, but then again I have a cheapo 1080p 60Hz TN monitor and no plans to upgrade monitors anytime soon.
5. It's my understanding that 1440p nor 144Hz will make any difference for consoles. However if your PC can make use of it, it would matter for PC gaming. Would getting a cheaper 1080p/60Hz monitor for the console and 1440p/144Hz monitor for PC gaming be an option?
6. Yeah, that's more or less what I think about it as well.
 

low-G

Member
Looks like the CPU was the thing that went bad! Put in a new i5-6600k and the computer is working (so far).

So there's that info. Very far from testing stability or anything, but I'm posting from Windows on that PC right now. Any tips for testing stability? I plan on doing some AIDA64 & games.
 

Walpurgis

Banned
It's happening! Since my dad broke our old PC, he's buying the family a new one and since I'm the only one who knows about PCs, I get to decide what we buy - the perfect opportunity for my first gaming PC!

I posted this in the old PC thread a few months ago.
Walpurgis said:
[Basic Desktop Questions]
Your Current Specs: Not worth talking about. It's scam HP Pavilion from 2008. I remember running two instances of Crysis at max graphics once with a good frame rate. Now, it can hardly run Guild Wars 2 at the lowest settings more than 25 FPS.
Budget: ~$1000
Main Use: Heavy Gaming - 5. General Usage - 2.
Monitor Resolution: I still have the 1920x1200 monitor from 2008 in good condition. I don't know if it's outdated but I think it still looks good.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: The Witcher 3 and Fallout 4. Early access titles like DayZ, Rust, H1Z1, The Forest and ARK. ARMA 3. I would like 60 FPS. I'm sorry I'm not familiar with PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA. I have nothing worth reusing except the monitor. My case is just filthy.
When will you build?: Deadline is Fallout 4 (Nov. 10).
Will you be overclocking?: I'm not sure what this means but it sounds dangerous.

If someone could please help me find a strong PC that would be great!
Since my siblings have been pushing for a new desktop, I don't have as much time as I thought so I will be buying now.
RGM79 said:
You'll be reusing the hard drive from the HP PC at least, right? Here's a starting build to work from, without a new hard drive.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($284.75 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($62.99 @ NCIX)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card ($407.09 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $949.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-08 13:25 EDT-0400

Normally I'd also recommend an aftermarket CPU cooler go to with the overclockable CPU, but that can be bought and installed later to keep costs down now. As it is, after taxes it might already be over your budget. You may want to consider looking at the cheaper R9 290 graphics card as well, that should be able to get you 60FPS in most games, albeit at still high-ish settings, but not as high as the GTX 970.

You may want to wait for Intel to launch their Skylake processors and new Z170 motherboards, rumored for release next month. Performance-wise I'm not expecting them to be a huge game changer, but it'd be a little more futureproof in terms of upgradeability and future support. It's up to you though, and it seems likely that Skylake/Z170 parts will come with a bit of a price premium over existing Z97 parts.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=171298634&postcount=17986 (the original post contains all of the links)

It has been a few months since that build and I know that technology moves fast, so if someone could tell me if it is still good, I would really appreciate it.
 
Looks like the CPU was the thing that went bad! Put in a new i5-6600k and the computer is working (so far).

So there's that info. Very far from testing stability or anything, but I'm posting from Windows on that PC right now. Any tips for testing stability? I plan on doing some AIDA64 & games.

That's weird. Everything I heard is that CPU's are usually one of the last parts that are bad unless you fry it or break pins(on AMD CPUS).

P.S. I have my first Technician service call on Friday. I got into IT last year and work on a Help Desk full time. I got a second job as a PC Technician.
 

comrade

Member
I'm stuck.

I've considered getting the 980Ti for months now but there are things that keep running through my mind.

1. How much longer will we have to wait for Pascal?
2. Will the 1080(or whatever they call it)be better or on par with the 980Ti?
3. The jump to 1440p doesn't seem significant enough to justify losing performance compared to 1080p
4. Deciding on a monitor is also causing a problem because of the 980Ti and the wait for Pascal.
5. I stream on Twitch and want a completely new monitor setup. I want to play my console games on one and PC games on the other. I've seen a couple of really nice Dell IPS monitors at 24" that would be perfect for both needs, but I keep struggling with "should I finally make a jump to 1440p or 144hz"
6. Colors mean a lot to me and so does performance. I know many will say "just wait for some of the 1440p 144hz IPS monitors coming out in the next year." The 980Ti is a nice card, but it's not going to play games at max settings for 2-3yrs(which is usually how long I wait for a GPU upgrade)at 90FPS, either. If I get the 980Ti, sticking with 1080p is more a safe bet to keep games running at least 60-70FPS high settings for a few years.
7. It seems a decent chunk of the monitor companies are moving away from 1080p. It makes me feel if I wait, I'll only be waiting for companies to bring out more 1440p-4K monitors.

Decisions man...dem decisions...So difficult. I have enough money to get most of this stuff now, but something in the back of my mind is telling me I need to wait a bit longer.

I went from a 144hz/1080p monitor to a 144hz/1440p monitor. Upgrade was pretty glorious. Definitely would not go back to 1080p.
 

KurtFehl

Member
Hey guys. I've got my own PC. Sometimes it just so happens that I'll leave for a few days or so to my dad's house. I have to move around my huge, heavy, PC between houses each time I do this and I would rather not. When I'm at my dad's, I don't usually play games. It's mostly used for light tasks. So, what I'm asking is for a relatively small, form factor, cheap build. I'm not sure if it's possible to build something for $250/$300 is it? The only thing that I have that I could use for the PC is a Pentium G3258. Can we make this happen? the only requirements I need for it are,
1: Needs to be Windows 8.1/10
2: Small form factor (would be nice but if price doesn't allow for it, it can be sacrificed)
3: 1080p resolution, HDMI
4: A video card of sorts would be nice. It won't be used for gaming at all. I'll throw at it whatever it can handle, if I get the gaming itch, but gaming shouldn't be a concern.
$300 is the most I am willing to spend, if at all possible... So I don't want to take into consideration mail in rebates.

Keyboard, mouse, monitor, and O/S are excluded in the build. I'll get those separately.
 

low-G

Member
That's weird. Everything I heard is that CPU's are usually one of the last parts that are bad unless you fry it or break pins(on AMD CPUS).

P.S. I have my first Technician service call on Friday. I got into IT last year and work on a Help Desk full time. I got a second job as a PC Technician.

Yep, and that's the advice I was following. I never changed the voltage, and my temps never even touched 60c ever, so I have no idea... It broke after 2 weeks of stable use, didn't alter the PC at all between it working & not.
 

fred

Member
That's weird. Everything I heard is that CPU's are usually one of the last parts that are bad unless you fry it or break pins(on AMD CPUS).

P.S. I have my first Technician service call on Friday. I got into IT last year and work on a Help Desk full time. I got a second job as a PC Technician.

Around 3 or 4 PCs ago I had an AMD CPU with a bent pin on it. Must have come out of the factory that way. Luckily I managed to bend it back to where it should have been but I was crapping myself when I first switched the thing on lol.

Have gone with an Intel CPU ever since lol.

It's been 7 years since I put my current machine together and whilst it's great fun putting everything together but I always dread turning the thing on for the first time. Mind you, the feeling of relief you get after that first POST makes it all worth it lmfao
 
Yep, and that's the advice I was following. I never changed the voltage, and my temps never even touched 60c ever, so I have no idea... It broke after 2 weeks of stable use, didn't alter the PC at all between it working & not.
What other parts did you replace? If you replaced the PSU and motherboard, I wonder if those previous parts had a part in killing your cpu? Some spike of voltage or something like that.

Around 3 or 4 PCs ago I had an AMD CPU with a bent pin on it. Must have come out of the factory that way. Luckily I managed to bend it back to where it should have been but I was crapping myself when I first switched the thing on lol.

Have gone with an Intel CPU ever since lol.

It's been 7 years since I put my current machine together and whilst it's great fun putting everything together but I always dread turning the thing on for the first time. Mind you, the feeling of relief you get after that first POST makes it all worth it lmfao

The first time I built a PC, I was shitting bricks installing the CPU. Then you push the lever down to secure the CPU in the socket and you hear this weird sound and feel resistance. The key is to take your time. No need to rush. Line up the notches and triangle on the corner of cpu. Boom. You're done.
 

Oxn

Member
Hey guys. I've got my own PC. Sometimes it just so happens that I'll leave for a few days or so to my dad's house. I have to move around my huge, heavy, PC between houses each time I do this and I would rather not. When I'm at my dad's, I don't usually play games. It's mostly used for light tasks. So, what I'm asking is for a relatively small, form factor, cheap build. I'm not sure if it's possible to build something for $250/$300 is it? The only thing that I have that I could use for the PC is a Pentium G3258. Can we make this happen? the only requirements I need for it are,
1: Needs to be Windows 8.1/10
2: Small form factor (would be nice but if price doesn't allow for it, it can be sacrificed)
3: 1080p resolution, HDMI
4: A video card of sorts would be nice. It won't be used for gaming at all. I'll throw at it whatever it can handle, if I get the gaming itch, but gaming shouldn't be a concern.
$300 is the most I am willing to spend, if at all possible... So I don't want to take into consideration mail in rebates.

Keyboard, mouse, monitor, and O/S are excluded in the build. I'll get those separately.

My god. Why not just get an affordable laptop.
 

fred

Member
What other parts did you replace? If you replaced the PSU and motherboard, I wonder if those previous parts had a part in killing your cpu? Some spike of voltage or something like that.



The first time I built a PC, I was shitting bricks installing the CPU. Then you push the lever down to secure the CPU in the socket and you hear this weird sound and feel resistance. The key is to take your time. No need to rush. Line up the notches and triangle on the corner of cpu. Boom. You're done.

Yup. It wasn't my first build or anything but the pin wasn't just bent it was BENT lol. Bending it back again REALLY slowly and in increments got the job done thankfully. Good job I hadn't recently cut my fingernails lmfao
 
Hi TechGAF, I'm looking to build (or have someone build for me) a new PC closer to the holiday and was hoping to get some advice/help with parts. The charts in the OP are very helpful but upon doing some searches on newegg, microcenter, and other sites I end up with multiple results for some parts and it's hard to distinguish them and I don't want a mess compatibility wise. I'm just not good at this at all haha. Leaving off the current specs because I have no plan of reusing them.

---

Budget: Price Range + Country: $1500ish, $1700 tops. United States

Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming - 5, Gaming - 5, Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 5, Video Editing - 2, Streaming games in HD - 2, 3D/Model work (and what program) - 1, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 5.

Monitor Resolution: 1080p. I already own a monitor that I will keep using as an upgrade can come later.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I'd like to be able to play modern games with at least somewhat decent settings without them running horribly for a few years. Otherwise I'll probably just use it for general use (games, web browsing, music, dvd/blu-ray playback.) 60 fps in games is nice but not the end of the world.

Looking to reuse any parts?: No

When will you build?: November-January

Will you be overclocking?: Maybe, I don't have experience with it or really know what it is truly/how to do it. I don't see why I wouldn't if I knew though.

Others: Only dealbreakers I have as far as parts go are a blu-ray drive/reader and a lot of storage (2 TB probs)
 

low-G

Member
What other parts did you replace? If you replaced the PSU and motherboard, I wonder if those previous parts had a part in killing your cpu? Some spike of voltage or something like that.

I replaced the motherboard (Asus 170-Z) and I tried a different PSU but didn't replace it (back on the old one), it's an EVGA SuperNova 850W and I tried a 650W...

Think I should switch to the 650W in case the PSU is doing something weird? That does make me concerned.
 
I replaced the motherboard (Asus 170-Z) and I tried a different PSU but didn't replace it (back on the old one), it's an EVGA SuperNova 850W and I tried a 650W...

Think I should switch to the 650W in case the PSU is doing something weird? That does make me concerned.

It's something to watch out for. If your 2nd CPU dies, then I think it could be the culprit.
 

kennah

Member
Hey guys. I've got my own PC. Sometimes it just so happens that I'll leave for a few days or so to my dad's house. I have to move around my huge, heavy, PC between houses each time I do this and I would rather not. When I'm at my dad's, I don't usually play games. It's mostly used for light tasks. So, what I'm asking is for a relatively small, form factor, cheap build. I'm not sure if it's possible to build something for $250/$300 is it? The only thing that I have that I could use for the PC is a Pentium G3258. Can we make this happen? the only requirements I need for it are,
1: Needs to be Windows 8.1/10
2: Small form factor (would be nice but if price doesn't allow for it, it can be sacrificed)
3: 1080p resolution, HDMI
4: A video card of sorts would be nice. It won't be used for gaming at all. I'll throw at it whatever it can handle, if I get the gaming itch, but gaming shouldn't be a concern.
$300 is the most I am willing to spend, if at all possible... So I don't want to take into consideration mail in rebates.

Keyboard, mouse, monitor, and O/S are excluded in the build. I'll get those separately.

This case.http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=11-108-428

À B85 itx board that strikes your fancy (I like the gigabyte Phoenix) and the cheapest ram and ssd you can find. Use the onboard gpu from the Pentium until you see a good deal on some low profile gpu like a 940 or radeon
 
I was wondering if anyone here can help.

I am trying to build my computer and the LED on the front of the case is on but the computer won't boot. No fans spinning or anything I don't have the heat sink on the CPU yet which might be why it won't boot.

I have all my color coded connectors in right going by the manual.

Any ideas?
 

Kudo

Member
Just had spooky issue with my new computer..
I turn it on and its all normal until Windows should appear - both monitors start flickering from black to black&white squares. Shut down the computer from power button and new try - all goes smooth and works.

Checking Event Viewer there's lots of "Display driver nvlddmkm stopped responding and has successfully recovered." and the time is same so I'd assume nVidias Windows 10 drivers were having a seizure? Just few days ago I had problem where the drivers didn't recognize my monitors native resolution:
Just had weird problem that after booting computer Windows/Nvidia didn't detect monitors native resolution (2560x1440), installing newest Nvidia drivers fixed it for now.
Any idea what could have caused that?

Monitor is hooked up with DP-MiniDP.

When I updated the drivers after that, I just installed them over the old ones, should I do some sort of cleaning or should it not matter?
Also is it safe to just downgrade back to earlier driver by just overwriting the new ones?

If anyone has tips I could try, everything is appreciated.
Thanks.
 

Darknight

Member
Need some advice.

I've always wanted to buy the 970 G1 and then my interests moved into the 980ti G1. Recently I saw locally in CL for sale a EVGA 980 Ti SC with the hybrid kit installed.

My question is, would this card be worth it over the G1 with the closed loop system? Maybe match or surpass the G1 with it OC or does it have a TDP limit or something that makes it not as good? Price is roughly the same as a stock 980ti G1.

Heard people say get the Hybrid 980ti card but this card is just the regular card + hybrid kit. Not sure if there is any difference.

Edit: Item got sold...fuck I am sad. You failed me GAF.
 

byropoint

Member
Quick question about the CPU power connector -- looking to finally build an ITX pc and I've just noticed that the z170 ITX motherboards which are available to me all have a 4pin CPU power connector instead of the usual 8pin, would that suffice for a 6700k? I do plan on overclocking it later on.
 

kennah

Member
Quick question about the CPU power connector -- looking to finally build an ITX pc and I've just noticed that the z170 ITX motherboards which are available to me all have a 4pin CPU power connector instead of the usual 8pin, would that suffice for a 6700k? I do plan on overclocking it later on.
It's fine. You only need the 8 pin for super extreme overclocks;benchmarks
 

RGM79

Member
It's happening! Since my dad broke our old PC, he's buying the family a new one and since I'm the only one who knows about PCs, I get to decide what we buy - the perfect opportunity for my first gaming PC!

I posted this in the old PC thread a few months ago.

Since my siblings have been pushing for a new desktop, I don't have as much time as I thought so I will be buying now.

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=171298634&postcount=17986 (the original post contains all of the links)

It has been a few months since that build and I know that technology moves fast, so if someone could tell me if it is still good, I would really appreciate it.

Here's two new and up to date parts list suggestions, one for the cheaper Haswell and Z97 stuff and one for the newer Skylake parts.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($298.50 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($59.95 @ NCIX)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card ($419.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $976.41
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-09 21:59 EDT-0400

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.95 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4S ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($134.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($82.13 @ DirectCanada)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB Superclocked Video Card ($288.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $978.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-09 22:05 EDT-0400

The Skylake/Z170 build is newer and will be more compatible with future upgrades, but is overall a bit weaker for gaming than the Haswell/Z97 build which is able to fit a stronger graphics card into the same budget.

Hey guys. I've got my own PC. Sometimes it just so happens that I'll leave for a few days or so to my dad's house. I have to move around my huge, heavy, PC between houses each time I do this and I would rather not. When I'm at my dad's, I don't usually play games. It's mostly used for light tasks. So, what I'm asking is for a relatively small, form factor, cheap build. I'm not sure if it's possible to build something for $250/$300 is it? The only thing that I have that I could use for the PC is a Pentium G3258. Can we make this happen? the only requirements I need for it are,
1: Needs to be Windows 8.1/10
2: Small form factor (would be nice but if price doesn't allow for it, it can be sacrificed)
3: 1080p resolution, HDMI
4: A video card of sorts would be nice. It won't be used for gaming at all. I'll throw at it whatever it can handle, if I get the gaming itch, but gaming shouldn't be a concern.
$300 is the most I am willing to spend, if at all possible... So I don't want to take into consideration mail in rebates.

Keyboard, mouse, monitor, and O/S are excluded in the build. I'll get those separately.

This is the best that I can do, I think.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($49.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Dark 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($37.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.56 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R7 250X 2GB Core Edition Video Card ($73.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cougar Spike MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($33.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $273.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-09 22:23 EDT-0400
 

Wag

Member
Hey guys. I've got my own PC. Sometimes it just so happens that I'll leave for a few days or so to my dad's house. I have to move around my huge, heavy, PC between houses each time I do this and I would rather not. When I'm at my dad's, I don't usually play games. It's mostly used for light tasks. So, what I'm asking is for a relatively small, form factor, cheap build. I'm not sure if it's possible to build something for $250/$300 is it? The only thing that I have that I could use for the PC is a Pentium G3258. Can we make this happen? the only requirements I need for it are,
1: Needs to be Windows 8.1/10
2: Small form factor (would be nice but if price doesn't allow for it, it can be sacrificed)
3: 1080p resolution, HDMI
4: A video card of sorts would be nice. It won't be used for gaming at all. I'll throw at it whatever it can handle, if I get the gaming itch, but gaming shouldn't be a concern.
$300 is the most I am willing to spend, if at all possible... So I don't want to take into consideration mail in rebates.

Keyboard, mouse, monitor, and O/S are excluded in the build. I'll get those separately.

Why don't you get one of those Zotac things?
 

knitoe

Member
I'm sorry but this is bs. I'm running witcher 3 at 4k on dual 970s at max graphics with 50-60fps. You do not need 3 980s by any stretch of the imagination.
There's no way you are getting those fps on SLI 970. I am running SLI Titan X and some times can drop in the 40s. You are probably running without hairworks. If yes, you aren't running "max" settings anymore. So, yes, 3x 980ti would be needed to run Witcher 3 at max settings @ 60fps.
 

Walpurgis

Banned
Here's two new and up to date parts list suggestions, one for the cheaper Haswell and Z97 stuff and one for the newer Skylake parts.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($298.50 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($59.95 @ NCIX)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card ($419.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $976.41
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-09 21:59 EDT-0400

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.95 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4S ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($134.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($82.13 @ DirectCanada)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB Superclocked Video Card ($288.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $978.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-09 22:05 EDT-0400

The Skylake/Z170 build is newer and will be more compatible with future upgrades, but is overall a bit weaker for gaming than the Haswell/Z97 build which is able to fit a stronger graphics card into the same budget.

Thank you for the new builds! I would like the weaker one since you said that it is better for the long term. I am just curious on the power difference. Will I still be able to run things like The Witcher 3 (1200p, 60 FPS) on high settings?
 

Bebpo

Banned
So I got a new 1000W EVGA Supersonic G2 PSU to replace my 750W Coolermaster that was smelling like burning and powering out during heavy scenes in MGSV with my 980 SLIs.

I switch it out which is a huuuuge pain in the ass because the Coolermaster is only very partly modular and so nothing is simply plug out and plug in. Have to redo all the power plugs in the entire computer.

Turn it on and everything seems to be working EXCEPT for some weird reason all 4 GPU fans (2 on each 980) are not turning on, even when playing MGSV at 4k and pushing it. So I would think I missed plugging in some part on the cards, right? But then if I use EVGA's Precision X tool and set the fans to auto they spin up and work perfectly. In fact, I know the power supply must've been a problem because running MGSV with the fans on auto (which keeps them pretty quiet) my temps are only going up to about 55-60C on my GPU1 and 45C on my CPU/Motherboard, whereas I was getting 80C on GPU1 and 70C on my CPU/Motherboard before.

But I don't get this. If the GPU fans work and the cards work, then everything is plugged in correctly. So why would the default system drivers not turn the fans on?

I mean it works now if I just make EVGA Precision X always start with windows so it's always running and keeping the fans on auto, but I don't really like that because what if one time it doesn't open and then I'm running my 2 GPUs with no GPU fans for hours and kill the expensive cards.

What the heck could be happening?
 

Bebpo

Banned
Nm, the fans weren't turning on because now that I had a good PSU the temps weren't getting above 60C where the fans turn on for a while. Yay, glad it's all working.
 
I don't know what that is, actually. But to answer your question, I want to show my dad how to build it and build it with him. I told him I would do it one day.

Ah I see.

Well those Zotac mini-PCs seem pretty good. It's like a wallet size PC that seem to be pretty powerful for its form factor.
 

RGM79

Member
Thank you for the new builds! I would like the weaker one since you said that it is better for the long term. I am just curious on the power difference. Will I still be able to run things like The Witcher 3 (1200p, 60 FPS) on high settings?

For the GTX 960 It'd be closer to medium level settings. This excellent article goes into detail about the GTX 960's ability to hit 1080p60 for the Witcher 3. The same article says that the GTX 970 can hit high-ultra level settings and nearly achieve a solid 60FPS. Hairworks turned off for both, of course.

If you're just looking for performance, then the Haswell build is perfectly fine. The processor will remain strong for the next three years, especially with some overclocking. Given how Intel seems to want to introduce a new processor and motherboard chipset family every two years or so, the Haswell build could probably hold you over until Intel comes up with socket 1151's replacement.

Skylake/Z170 offers some of the latest tech you can get at the moment, and adopts new stuff like DDR4. It's said to be more upgradeable and "futureproof" because it accepts the latest tech and Intel will develop one or two more lines of processors for it in the future. Not really a big deal if all you're after is framerate. While Haswell is still on older hardware, it's not like Skylake's new tech makes it obsolete, it's still perfectly capable of running games at 60FPS.
 

Wag

Member
There's no way you are getting those fps on SLI 970. I am running SLI Titan X and some times can drop in the 40s. You are probably running without hairworks. If yes, you aren't running "max" settings anymore. So, yes, 3x 980ti would be needed to run Witcher 3 at max settings @ 60fps.

Even without hairworks I can't see him getting 60FPS @ 4k in SLI on 970s. Something doesn't sound right. Maybe he's running @ 1080p on his 4k monitor?
 

jevity

Member
Ok. I need some advice. or maybe what I need is more like a confirmation.

I'm really close to getting my first real gamer pc built, and I went with 2 980 ti Zotac AMP extreme edition cards, and a i76700k cpu. On this other forum I frequent, everybody keep telling me that the built is crazy overkill and I'm basically throwing my money out the window.

I reply that the pc will be used for not only 1080p gaming, but 21:9 1440p gaming
as well as HTC vive/ oculus rift CV1 later on. When I look at benchmarks for 1440p gaming I dont think 2x 980 ti is exactly overkill. Especially not if you want to maybe use DSR or just want to play GTA V with everything on ultra + texturemods + enb. Also if I want to change to native 4k gaming later on, I believe I can still resell the cards for a reasonable amount of money.

So...am I delusional, or I am just a discerning consumer, who wants to experience some of the best pc gaming has to offer ?
 
Ok. I need some advice. or maybe what I need is more like a confirmation.

I'm really close to getting my first real gamer pc built, and I went with 2 980 ti Zotac AMP extreme edition cards, and a i76700k cpu. On this other forum I frequent, everybody keep telling me that the built is crazy overkill and I'm basically throwing my money out the window.

I reply that the pc will be used for not only 1080p gaming, but 21:9 1440p gaming
as well as HTC vive/ oculus rift CV1 later on. When I look at benchmarks for 1440p gaming I dont think 2x 980 ti is exactly overkill. Especially not if you want to maybe use DSR or just want to play GTA V with everything on ultra + texturemods + enb. Also if I want to change to native 4k gaming later on, I believe I can still resell the cards for a reasonable amount of money.

So...am I delusional, or I am just a discerning consumer, who wants to experience some of the best pc gaming has to offer ?

You are exactly this "who wants to experience some of the best pc gaming has to offer".
 

Haribi

Why isn't there a Star Wars RPG? And wouldn't James Bond make for a pretty good FPS?
I think I decided to buy the i5-6500 instead of the 4460, especially because it's better in the long term and I want a system that I don't need to upgrade in the next 4 years or so (except for the video card). I have gone slightly over my budget tho so I wonder if I can save up some money to upgrade the ssd from 64 gb to 250 gb

So 2 Questions
1) Is a dedicated cpu cooler nessecary if you don't plan on overclocking it or is the i5-6500's own cooler enough? I don't plan on doing any rendering stuff or something like that and mostly just play CSGO, Fifa and Dota.
2) Can you guys recommend me a good and affordable case around 40$ max?
 

fred

Member
Ok. I need some advice. or maybe what I need is more like a confirmation.

I'm really close to getting my first real gamer pc built, and I went with 2 980 ti Zotac AMP extreme edition cards, and a i76700k cpu. On this other forum I frequent, everybody keep telling me that the built is crazy overkill and I'm basically throwing my money out the window.

I reply that the pc will be used for not only 1080p gaming, but 21:9 1440p gaming
as well as HTC vive/ oculus rift CV1 later on. When I look at benchmarks for 1440p gaming I dont think 2x 980 ti is exactly overkill. Especially not if you want to maybe use DSR or just want to play GTA V with everything on ultra + texturemods + enb. Also if I want to change to native 4k gaming later on, I believe I can still resell the cards for a reasonable amount of money.

So...am I delusional, or I am just a discerning consumer, who wants to experience some of the best pc gaming has to offer ?

There is no such thing as overkill on a gaming PC, particularly with VR being just around the corner. Yes, the recommended specs are a good deal lower but in 2 or 3 years time you'll be playing games at high level settings still.

That's why I've decided to get a Radeon 9 Fury X over a Radeon 9 390X for my next build.
 

ruttyboy

Member
I think I decided to buy the i5-6500 instead of the 4460, especially because it's better in the long term and I want a system that I don't need to upgrade in the next 4 years or so (except for the video card). I have gone slightly over my budget tho so I wonder if I can save up some money to upgrade the ssd from 64 gb to 250 gb

So 2 Questions
1) Is a dedicated cpu cooler nessecary if you don't plan on overclocking it or is the i5-6500's own cooler enough? I don't plan on doing any rendering stuff or something like that and mostly just play CSGO, Fifa and Dota.
2) Can you guys recommend me a good and affordable case around 40$ max?

The 6600 (assuming you meant that rather than 6500) doesn't come with a stock cooler so you will need to buy an aftermarket one.
 

Najaf

Member
Is there an existing or upcoming best solution for a gsync 2k/4k monitor that would also work well with a console? I use a common monitor for both pc gaming and console. All of the new gsync hotness only seems to have single displayport in and lacks hdmi secondary.

I know gsync requires displayport but I can't be alone in wanting to hook up a console without messing with questionable splitters.
 
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