Extremely rare for the CPU to fail in 2 weeks, but CPU led lit is usually always board or CPU failure.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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Extremely rare for the CPU to fail in 2 weeks, but CPU led lit is usually always board or CPU failure.
XShadows69
Member
A lil off topic rn but anyone used the Daedalus prime with a fingertip grip? How did you guys find it.
Send me to the mice thread if there is on (on mobile rn)
Send me to the mice thread if there is on (on mobile rn)
RumblingRosco
Member
Thanks for the suggestion. Looks a bit out of my price range, but maybe I can just hold off for a while and save up a bit more. Alternatively, I'll look around for a used one for sale, maybe.
Wag
Member
That's in AIDA64 stability test. 90C is peak. I'm using the supplied thermal paste. It must be dried since I opened the packet. I'll probably need to buy some more. I hate having to remove the fan/mounting plate, etc. It's a real PITA. Right now it's stable tho. It's not throttling down according to AIDA64 so it's within limits when I run the stability test. Seems to be OK. Before I added the 2nd fan it was throttling down.
Yeah. it's too hot. I ran Prime95 and it's over 95C. Maybe it's not seated properly or something. That shouldn't be the case, the True Spirit 140 is a good heatsink. Maybe I'm putting too much/too little paste on it? Hmm....
Professor Lich
Member
Hey all, just wondering about something here.
Just built my first rig on my own, was a bit more stressful than I had anticipated but so far everything works. To be safe I installed Speccy to keep an eye on my Temps incase I did something wrong and I think I might of. Looking at Speccy my Motherboard seems to ping pong between 30-60 degrees and my CPU is between 30-50 degrees.
Maybe that's normal it's just on my older rig it seemed like they were more stable. I don't have any programs installed yet to really test out stuff but I'd thought I'd double check here if I could. Any help and information is appreciated!
The parts in question:
-i7 6700k (reads as 6xxx @ 4 in Speccy)
-ASUS Z170 LGA 1151
-Corsair H100i CFM Liquid
Full build list here. Should be newbuild_2015.
Just built my first rig on my own, was a bit more stressful than I had anticipated but so far everything works. To be safe I installed Speccy to keep an eye on my Temps incase I did something wrong and I think I might of. Looking at Speccy my Motherboard seems to ping pong between 30-60 degrees and my CPU is between 30-50 degrees.
Maybe that's normal it's just on my older rig it seemed like they were more stable. I don't have any programs installed yet to really test out stuff but I'd thought I'd double check here if I could. Any help and information is appreciated!
The parts in question:
-i7 6700k (reads as 6xxx @ 4 in Speccy)
-ASUS Z170 LGA 1151
-Corsair H100i CFM Liquid
Full build list here. Should be newbuild_2015.
Wag
Member
Oops. I just noticed I applied the thermal paste wrong. Instead of applying just a grain of rice on the CPU, I put a grain of rice on it and spread it out. I'm supposed to use the pressure of the Heatsink to spread it. It's been a long time since I built my own machine. Whoops. Time to buy more paste.
It's not that big a deal, there are some who prefer to spread it themselves.
I never understood how spreading it yourself is much better when it comes to air bubbles and pockets, though. If you want to use the heatsink to spread it for you, then take a look at this article.
Both are roughly equal in most situations, it'll depend on what games you play (check benchmarks to see which graphics card comes out on top) or if you prefer certain features like Nvidia ShadowPlay.
Wag
Member
I did use that article. But what I did was use the X and then spread that. Obviously it was plenty on the heatsink but wasn't enough on the CPU. I need to reapply. 95C+ in Prime95 is no good.
WhiskeyDiver
Member
It looks perfect and well within my $2000 budget. And you left more than enough room for a quality 1440p monitor. Many thanks for your help.
Wag
Member
OK. Right now @ 4.3GHz (down from 4.4GHz) I'm idling @ 46C. I'll try playing Witcher 3 a bit and see how that goes before I decide to reapply the paste.
CreepingFear
Member
I've heard some of you say Prime 95 is no longer good for testing an overclock. Can you recommend me any good free programs to test temperature and stability for when I get my 6700k?
OCCT, Aida64(Paid) but has a 30 day trial.
I just put a PC together for about 1000€, I just want to know from the experts if it's a good configuration for someone who likely doesn't need to get the witcher at ultra with 1080@60fps (maybe someone knows enough to guess what my max settings would befor that game)
All parts from Mindfactory so I get it in one swoop (hopefully):
CPU: Intel Core i5 4690K 4x 3.50GHz
CPU Cooler: Thermalright HR-02 Macho Rev.A (BW) (I plan to Overclock, hopefully that one's enough)
Motherboard: Gigabyte G1.Sniper Z97 Intel Z97
Memory: 8GB Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3-1600
Storage: 250GB Samsung 850 Evo 2.5" (6.4cm) SATA ((I have a 1TB SATA already)
Video Card: 4096MB MSI GeForce GTX 970 Gaming 4G Aktiv PCIe 3.0 x16
Case: BitFenix Shinobi USB 3.0 Midi Tower
Power Supply: 530 Watt be quiet! Pure Power L8 CM
Operating System: Win7, will likely upgrade to 10.
All parts from Mindfactory so I get it in one swoop (hopefully):
CPU: Intel Core i5 4690K 4x 3.50GHz
CPU Cooler: Thermalright HR-02 Macho Rev.A (BW) (I plan to Overclock, hopefully that one's enough)
Motherboard: Gigabyte G1.Sniper Z97 Intel Z97
Memory: 8GB Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3-1600
Storage: 250GB Samsung 850 Evo 2.5" (6.4cm) SATA ((I have a 1TB SATA already)
Video Card: 4096MB MSI GeForce GTX 970 Gaming 4G Aktiv PCIe 3.0 x16
Case: BitFenix Shinobi USB 3.0 Midi Tower
Power Supply: 530 Watt be quiet! Pure Power L8 CM
Operating System: Win7, will likely upgrade to 10.
Help GAF. Trying to find the best value for money laptop for my mum here in the UK. Main use would be typical use like browsing web with the odd dabble in maybe image editing/game playing. Budget of roughly £300.
Everything I've seen has roughly the same specs ideally I want an i3, 8gb of ram and 1TB HDD. These are the best I've found so far, which should we get?
http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/comput...81d5-a25372d2e3d7&istItemId=qqpxmxaq&istBid=t - Intel® Pentium® Processor N3540, 8GB Ram, 1TB HDD - £249
http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/comput...5-af067sa-15-6-laptop-white-10132644-pdt.html - AMD A8-7410 APU, 8GB Ram, 1TB Ram - £349.99
http://www.tesco.com/direct/asus-x5...Xeqwdwc1OHC7d7GA5yXaPygXq2ZAkVThamBoCwk7w_wcB - Intel Core i3 (4030U), 4GB Ram, 1TB HDD - £299
http://www.johnlewis.com/lenovo-g50...88-4130-8d89-9396-00004fee32a9&kpid=234178354 - Intel Pentium N3540, 8GB Ram, 1TB HDD - £269.95
Everything I've seen has roughly the same specs ideally I want an i3, 8gb of ram and 1TB HDD. These are the best I've found so far, which should we get?
http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/comput...81d5-a25372d2e3d7&istItemId=qqpxmxaq&istBid=t - Intel® Pentium® Processor N3540, 8GB Ram, 1TB HDD - £249
http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/comput...5-af067sa-15-6-laptop-white-10132644-pdt.html - AMD A8-7410 APU, 8GB Ram, 1TB Ram - £349.99
http://www.tesco.com/direct/asus-x5...Xeqwdwc1OHC7d7GA5yXaPygXq2ZAkVThamBoCwk7w_wcB - Intel Core i3 (4030U), 4GB Ram, 1TB HDD - £299
http://www.johnlewis.com/lenovo-g50...88-4130-8d89-9396-00004fee32a9&kpid=234178354 - Intel Pentium N3540, 8GB Ram, 1TB HDD - £269.95
GalacticAE
Member
Cool thanks. It says i live about 20 minutes from one so ill try to check it out. I wasnt planning on OCing the cpu but an aftermarket cooler would give me the option so thats good.
Are Asus and Asrock motherboards reliable? Also, is 500 watts enough for this build? What is a way to get windows 10 for cheap? I remember someone saying you can get cheap keys off reddit.
I did a new build for The Phantom Pain and am having nothing but crashes and blue screens, I assumed it was the game but when I have just tried to launch another game to test it also came up as not responding after the titles screen, what tests can I do to identify any software/hardware issues?
So I was talking to a buddy from school the other day, and he's looking to jump into the game. I told him I'd help and that I know some good people who helped me with mine *cough*. So! Here's the OT list.
Current Specs: N/A
Budget: $1000
Main Use: He wants it for both making music with his band and gaming. More the music than the gaming. I'm sure it'll get some general usage as well.
Monitor resolution: 1080p
Programs: I'm not really sure. I'm not very informed in the music creation area.
Deadline: No specific one, just soon.
Overclocking: Yes.
Area: Outside STL, MO
He told me this budget is specifically for the tower, so to not worry about peripherals, monitor, etc.
Current Specs: N/A
Budget: $1000
Main Use: He wants it for both making music with his band and gaming. More the music than the gaming. I'm sure it'll get some general usage as well.
Monitor resolution: 1080p
Programs: I'm not really sure. I'm not very informed in the music creation area.
Deadline: No specific one, just soon.
Overclocking: Yes.
Area: Outside STL, MO
He told me this budget is specifically for the tower, so to not worry about peripherals, monitor, etc.
Correct, Prime is no longer the go-to for benchmarking.
RealBench is pretty good from ASUS - http://rog.asus.com/downloads/
What Nvidia drivers are you using? 355.82?
An aftermarket cooler would also help with temperatures and noise levels, even if you aren't overclocking. Of course, you can save yourself the $25 if you want.
Well, every brand has their share of defects and failure rates, but generally speaking (in no certain terms) Asus seems to be regarded for quality and ASRock is seen as a cheaper brand that offers more value for their products. I've been recommending the Asus Z97-E for a while and while reviews are few, it appears to be of decent quality and no one seems to have complained so far. The Z97 Pro4 seems to be just fine, going by the proportion of good reviews to negative reviews. The Z97 Extreme6 might be a bit iffy. Newegg's user reviews average only 3/5 stars for various issues, a full 1/3rd of reviews are 2 stars or lower. User reviews are not the only indicator of quality, but if reviews are poor then it might indicate something wrong with production or some kind of design flaw. There seem to be a fair number of users reporting dead motherboards or subsystems, sometimes on arrival and sometimes after weeks or months.
Yes, 500 watts should be enough. At stock speed the processor and motherboard probably only use around 150 watts maximum, whereas the graphics card uses 175 watts or so. The rest of the parts like SSDs and fans are fairly negligible, only using a few watts each. PCPartPicker seems to agree, it calculates wattage consumption as being 327 watts. These are just general figures, though. Actual power consumption will vary somewhat depending on what you're doing, of course.
It is a bit low if you were thinking about overclocking or future upgrades, though. I mainly chose it because you already had a 500 watt PSU selected and because it was a bit cheaper while not being worse in terms of quality.
Let me give you the usual info and disclaimer on cheap Windows licenses from reddit:
Cheap Windows licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for cheap, around $20 USD or less. Windows 10 licenses are also available for $30~40. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or MSDNAA/Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months. These keys should be upgradeable to Windows 10, but confirm with the seller to be sure, of course.
What are your system specs? Have you done any overclocking? Plugged in all the 'extra' power cables like CPU 4/8 pin power and graphics card power?
Try using BlueScreenView, post a screenshot or upload a log.
Does he need any specific hardware for making music like a sound card or audio recording interface? We can recommend something specific if we can figure out what special hardware he needs or what sort of games he wants to play and at what settings (30FPS? 60FPS? medium settings? higher settings?).
Shining Sunshine
Banned
I was originally but I'm now on 353.62 and having the same issues.
My system specs are:
i5 4690 (non unlocked version so no overclocking)
Gigabyte GTX 970
8GB (2X4GB) RAM
Corsair 500W CMX PSU
ASUS H97M-E Motherboard (Replaced an ASrock MB which I originally thought was causing the problem)
120GB Sandisk SSD for OS / 1TB WD Blue for Steam/games
On Windows 10 pro upgraded from 8 Pro
Here's my BlueScreenViewer log
If clean install of the video drivers didn't help, I would download MSI Afterburner or EVGA Precision, downclock the core and memory speeds to the normal stock speed of a 970, and then, test in games you are experiencing issues. Could be another unstable factory overclock.
How long did you run memtest? Sometimes I've had to run memtest for 48+ hours to see an error pop-up.
My LGA775 system is really now on its way out and so I thought now would be the time to upgrade. I want to build a DDR3 system that uses Ivy Bridge/Haswell CPUs and a decent GPU supported by a PSU that is relatively futureproof. My budget is about £200-300 (GBP).
CPU - Intel Pentium G3258 seems like a good choice, its cheap and has an onboard GPU.
GPU - Not too fussed right now
RAM - I only need 8gb, what brands and models should I get?
PSU - It needs to be good enough to support a mid-range GPU sometime in the future but more importantly it has to be stable.
MOBO - Again nothing fancy, can do with just one PCI-E slot. However this needs to be good. Im looking at the ASRock Z97 Anni, there are new Pro 3/4 models, are they worth getting instead?
Advice would be very helpful!
CPU - Intel Pentium G3258 seems like a good choice, its cheap and has an onboard GPU.
GPU - Not too fussed right now
RAM - I only need 8gb, what brands and models should I get?
PSU - It needs to be good enough to support a mid-range GPU sometime in the future but more importantly it has to be stable.
MOBO - Again nothing fancy, can do with just one PCI-E slot. However this needs to be good. Im looking at the ASRock Z97 Anni, there are new Pro 3/4 models, are they worth getting instead?
Advice would be very helpful!
Boombox On
Member
My PC has been booting itself up automatically sometime around 3AM every day. Any one have ideas as to what may cause this?
Cute Dragon Here
Member
OK, I have installed the Cooler Master TX3 EVO (along with their IC Essential E2 thermal paste, bought separately and applied) on my desktop. Shame about the Cryorig H7 and its non-availability.
How do I know if the cooler is installed correctly? The computer appears to be able to start, and stress testing in OCCT appears to give me a 10 degree Celsius reduction in temperatures overall compared to stock, topping out at around 65 degrees Celsius, and Intel XTU's stress test appear to never let the CPU go beyond 60 degrees Celsius, either. Both tests were being run at 100% fan speed for both stock and this cooler.
For what's its worth, the CPU cooler feels secure, and all four push-pins appear to have all three parts at equal level. Also applied the paste as a pea-sized amount on the centre of the CPU IHS. I just need to know if this is normal for an i5-4590 running at stock without any MCE.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
Check BIOS for auto-startup?
anyone?
We would need more info to even guess. Your full specs would be a good start. Or a screenshot.
full specs are
Asus P8-Z77-V-LK
i5 3570k@4.4k (EVO212 CPU cooler)
2x MSI GTX 970
2x 8GB DDR3 1600
250GB SSD
Cooler Master G750M Power adapter
R5 Define Case with one inhale on front and one exhale on the back
He mentioned wanting a good sound card, nothing on recording interfaces. For games, 60FPS with as good as he can go on this budget.
I just ordered parts for a new computer! It's been well over 8 years since I've built anything, so I'm really pumped.
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Seagate 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
I had to preorder the CPU from B&H, so I'll have to wait on that.
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Seagate 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
I had to preorder the CPU from B&H, so I'll have to wait on that.
Change of plan. As I said, my MOBO has a LGA 775 socket so my choices are limited. Ive decided instead to get more RAM and am looking at getting a CPU.
I currently have an E2180 and a Q6600/6700 would be a big benefit. How safe is it to buy used CPUs? Also out of the two, which is the safer choice since the Q6600 seems to be much more popular.
I currently have an E2180 and a Q6600/6700 would be a big benefit. How safe is it to buy used CPUs? Also out of the two, which is the safer choice since the Q6600 seems to be much more popular.
Perfectly safe to buy used CPUs. Q6600 is better from memory since it has a higher maximum multiplier when overclocking (x9 vs x8) hence it being most popular.
But see if your board supports the higher end chips like Q9450.
I am running an P35-DS3L which was a really popular board at the time. Im seeing some QX6700s and Core 2 Quad Q9450s for decent prices, should I go for them instead?
Either of those will be fine.
HarryDemeanor
Member
Well I just had a scare. Turned on my PC after coming home from work to find a white screen blinking on my monitor. Looked like GPU failure. Same thing when I tried turning it on again. Third time everything worked just fine. Don't know if that's a sign of things to come. I don't feel like dropping hundreds of dollars right now on new PC parts. Trying to save money. I hope it's just the GPU so I can RMA it.
Alright, nightmare is still going strong.
Back story: computer worked great for 2 weeks, temps great, no issues. Then wouldn't turn on. Red CPU LED on mobo.
So, new PSU made zero difference. For the record I've RMAed the mobo already.
So next, I'll RMA the CPU. Everyone said it was rare, but maybe that's the culprit.
I have an important question, and it's a 2 parter: I'm thinking if there's any way to eliminate my RAM so as to narrow the CPU as the only remaining factor (besides voodoo curses).
1). Can I test my mobo by having 1 or 0 sticks of RAM just to see if the CPU LED doesn't turn on? (It's G.skill Ripjaw V 3000Mhz DDR4)
2). How long is it perfectly safe to run a CPU without ANY HSF? Just that my heat sink is huge & blocks RAM, so I'm thinking of pulling the HSF & RAM and turning it on maybe 30 seconds and see what happens.
Thanks!
Side note of interest: newegg accepted my RMA & issued me a refund within 3 hours (perhaps much less) of them RECIEVING the mobo RMA.
Back story: computer worked great for 2 weeks, temps great, no issues. Then wouldn't turn on. Red CPU LED on mobo.
So, new PSU made zero difference. For the record I've RMAed the mobo already.
So next, I'll RMA the CPU. Everyone said it was rare, but maybe that's the culprit.
I have an important question, and it's a 2 parter: I'm thinking if there's any way to eliminate my RAM so as to narrow the CPU as the only remaining factor (besides voodoo curses).
1). Can I test my mobo by having 1 or 0 sticks of RAM just to see if the CPU LED doesn't turn on? (It's G.skill Ripjaw V 3000Mhz DDR4)
2). How long is it perfectly safe to run a CPU without ANY HSF? Just that my heat sink is huge & blocks RAM, so I'm thinking of pulling the HSF & RAM and turning it on maybe 30 seconds and see what happens.
Thanks!
Side note of interest: newegg accepted my RMA & issued me a refund within 3 hours (perhaps much less) of them RECIEVING the mobo RMA.
You cannot test a mobo or CPU without really having a spare mobo/CPU. The CPU initialises first, if that fails it doesn't matter if ram is installed or not. As I said your problem is definitely failed CPU or Board.
A few seconds at most is what I would run a CPU without a HSF for abuse. So basically if your care about it, don't do it. I've not killed a CPU but I have broken it's thermal sensors by doing this. So not advised ever!
Why not use the stock HSF while you play with things? Also no harm in trying different RAM configurations/slots to rule ram out.
I figured RAM was not the thing but some people on other forums (& personal IT friend) were suggesting it. Testing the RAM is not a priority, so I won't even bother then.
Also my CPU is an i5-6600k, so it doesn't come with a stock HSF.
Why not just place the heatsink+fan on the cpu (with thermal paste) without screwing it in for a few seconds. I wouldn't try without a heatsink.
Are they any risks to buying a Used card from a manufacturer? I saw that EVGA is selling 970s for $260, and I'm really close to pulling the trigger http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=04G-P4-2978-RX
Yeah this is a fair way to do it. Usually a bit of pressure on the HSF does wonders too, I usually stack an old HDD on top of it.
That is a hell of a deal. Jump on it. Wish I could.
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