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[RGM79]

Stupid question (sorry getting back in to pc gaming after years of not) but these days is additional cooling needed on the higher end cards if not over clocking?

You're talking about overclocking graphics cards? No, not really unless you want to spend extra money on a replacement water cooler or something?

 

[JoeyJungle]

Sounds like it's unstable. Try a lower overclock. Even if it seemed stable, it's not actually stable until it's totally stable. Simply because it's stable doing one thing doesn't mean it will be stable doing other things, sometimes certain games or programs can stress the graphics card in unexpected ways that will expose how seemingly stable OC settings aren't totally stable.

Oh, I realized when it crashed that it was unstable. But that artifacting when stretching windows is happening at a stock clock, which is why I'm a little worried that I messed something up.

 

[RayStorm]

No, this is a first time build, so everything's fresh. I've read about going into the motherboard bios to tweak settings, but is that not required? Will the OS disk do something similar once I install it?

I'm not quite clear what you mean by the OS disk doing somethign similar once you installed it (it = the OS?).

What you want to do: Insert Windows 10 DVD into DVD drive, start pc and install Windows 10. If that does not work you might have to set the boot order to include the DVD drive first.

After you have installed Windows 10 you will be good to go and it will boot straight to Windows (though if you had to switch up the boot order you might want to set it back to boot from your HDD/SSD first).

 

[RGM79]

Oh, I realized when it crashed that it was unstable. But that artifacting when stretching windows is happening at a stock clock, which is why I'm a little worried that I messed something up.

Oh, you didn't say that you went back to stock clocks. I don't know why you'd have artifacting now.. a bad overclock doesn't really result in damage.

Rebooted the PC? Reinstalled graphics drivers? Maybe even try underclocking the graphics card?

 

[RumblingRosco]

Maybe this isn't the perfect thread for this question, but I think it's still on-topic.

Are there any good guides or recent reviews for PC microphones? I'm looking for a USB microphone to use for recording my narration while I play games (to eventually be uploaded to YouTube... basically, Let's Play-style). I'm looking to spend $50-$100, which maybe isn't a great budget to work with, but I'm hoping I can find something that beats my $10 Logitech microphone. I'm looking for a microphone that'll stand on my desk, not a headset.

Any suggestions or advice?

I think the Blue Yeti is prety much what you want. Maybe a little too expensive (around $130 on Amazon.com), but Blue is a really good brand and the stand is integrated. I know lot of youtube guys that got this mic.

http://www.bluemic.com/yeti/

(I personnaly got a Blue Spark, but he is really more expensive -need a mixer, etc...-)

Thanks for this. I wanted to post a quick update: Amazon.com has a 2 hour lightning deal for the Blue Yeti at $100 brand new right now. Basically, this deal bumped the microphone down to my $100 price range, so it's an easy pick-up now for me. Wanted to pass the deal along to others in case they were seeking a microphone also.

 

[hitgirl]

Anyone know if those small 750TI or or 960mini or 950 can run games at 60fps @ 2516 x 1080p. Just racing games or so. Was going to get a skylake NUC for a work PC but was thinking on putting together a small mini ITX PC that could play some games if I wanted to. (I will have a beastly gaming PC out in the living room)

 

[Primethius]

How can I see what a good benchmark for my 980 Ti is? I'm using 3d Mark but I don't know if the scores are good or bad. I have a graphics score of 17566 and a physics 7520 and they appear to be less then other similar scores.

I just kind of want to determine if everything is good with the card.

 

[SleazyC]

Stupid question (sorry getting back in to pc gaming after years of not) but these days is additional cooling needed on the higher end cards if not over clocking?

Shouldn't need anything extra unless you are living somewhere with crazy high ambient temperature. Even then if you can control the room temperature you shouldn't need anything fancy.

Even overclocking most graphics cards now a days the stock coolers are ok.

How can I see what a good benchmark for my 980 Ti is? I'm using 3d Mark but I don't know if the scores are good or bad. I have a graphics score of 17566 and a physics 7520 and they appear to be less then other similar scores.

I just kind of want to determine if everything is good with the card.

Look here and see if you can find computers that are close in specs to yours.

I thought that at the end of 3DMark it showed you a chart of where your performance fell in comparison to some other stock systems. Maybe I'm thinking of something else?

 

[RGM79]

Anyone know if those small 750TI or or 960mini or 950 can run games at 60fps @ 2516 x 1080p. Just racing games or so. Was going to get a skylake NUC for a work PC but was thinking on putting together a small mini ITX PC that could play some games if I wanted to. (I will have a beastly gaming PC out in the living room)

At lower graphics settings, probably. They also make mITX-size GTX 970 cards as well if you need better performance. Asus and Gigabyte offer small GTX 970 cards like that.

 

[Shining Sunshine]

So when Intel puts a launch date on processors, they actually mean it comes out 2 months later.

WHERE THE HELL IS MY CPU!?

 

[Wag]

Do you really need three 980 Ti's though? SLI with 2 cards is the sweet spot. I've got two 980 Ti's myself and I find them plenty enough. I also have an ASUS Xonar Essence STX sound card which I just managed to squeeze in under my second card.
If sound is important to you, a good sound card and/or DAC/AMP rather than another 980 Ti is probably more worthwhile IMO.

For 4k gaming you still need 3 980Tis. Two cards are still under powered for the newest games like Witcher 3.

As for DAC, I'll get one eventually. I fooled around with the software settings/equalizer and find it mostly adequate. I game almost exclusively using a pair of Audio-Technica AD700s. Nice cans.

I have an old Soundblaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio PCI-e pulled from an MSI motherboard. It's got to be better than the Realtek chip. I'm tempted to try it out.

Are there any DACs that support Dolby Headphone (or Atmos)?

Oh, BTW, I think I got my 19200 memory stable @ 3200 at stock voltage. Crazy stuff.

 

[SpeedySwaf]

So one step forward, maybe two steps back...

I was able to install Windows 10 on my computer, so my computer is booting up just fine now. I next put in the CD that came with the Gigabyte motherboard, and chose to install the apps/drivers (except for the Norton program) but had to leave the pc for a bit for an errand. When I came back the window was gone, so I assumed it was done. I took out the Gigabyte disk, put in the EVGA disk...and got a message saying the CD reader couldn't be used/found. I checked my program files and it was no longer an option.

In addition, it's not detecting my ethernet cord from the modem, which is brand new. I went into command prompt and typed in "ipconfig", and all that came back was a message saying "Windows IP configuration" before starting a new line. Should I do a system restore, or could something else be causing this? It sounds like it's related to whatever I downloaded off the Gigabyte CD, but I can't be sure.

As an aside, when I was rotating the case to get the ethernet in, the pc restarted itself. I'm not sure if this means there's a loose cable, or something else.

 

[knitoe]

So one step forward, maybe two steps back...

I was able to install Windows 10 on my computer, so my computer is booting up just fine now. I next put in the CD that came with the Gigabyte motherboard, and chose to install the apps/drivers (except for the Norton program) but had to leave the pc for a bit for an errand. When I came back the window was gone, so I assumed it was done. I took out the Gigabyte disk, put in the EVGA disk...and got a message saying the CD reader couldn't be used/found. I checked my program files and it was no longer an option.

In addition, it's not detecting my ethernet cord from the modem, which is brand new. I went into command prompt and typed in "ipconfig", and all that came back was a message saying "Windows IP configuration" before starting a new line. Should I do a system restore, or could something else be causing this? It sounds like it's related to whatever I downloaded off the Gigabyte CD, but I can't be sure.

As an aside, when I was rotating the case to get the ethernet in, the pc restarted itself. I'm not sure if this means there's a loose cable, or something else.

Yeah, do a system restore. Next time, download the latest drivers from the manufacturer website and install them instead.

 

[SpeedySwaf]

Yeah, do a system restore. Next time, download the latest drivers from the manufacturer website and install them instead.

Just tried it, and it went back to when the drivers were being installed. Still no better off; PC is still not seeing the modem, and the CD reader is still not being seen. Could something have gone unplugged somehow, or would I need to go into safe mode or the motherboard bios at this point?

Or should I download the latest drivers from a different computer onto a USB drive, and use that to install the latest drivers?

 

[CreepingFear]

So when Intel puts a launch date on processors, they actually mean it comes out 2 months later.

WHERE THE HELL IS MY CPU!?

I'm with you. I think I'll manage to save up for a 1TB SSD though by the time the 6700k is available.

 

[knitoe]

Just tried it, and it went back to when the drivers were being installed. Still no better off; PC is still not seeing the modem, and the CD reader is still not being seen. Could something have gone unplugged somehow, or would I need to go into safe mode or the motherboard bios at this point?

Or should I download the latest drivers from a different computer onto a USB drive, and use that to install the latest drivers?

Yes. Download the latest drivers from website and install them. Most likely the drivers from the CD are old and incompatible. Thus, causing issues after install.

 

[Tabasco]

How much of a difference can one expect when jumping from a 1080p monitor to a 1440p one?

Also, is it wise to stick to 60 Hz? My purpose would be for gaming. A single 980Ti is a good card for the resolution, right?

 

[SpeedySwaf]

Yes. Download the latest drivers from website and install them. Most likely the drivers from the CD are old and incompatible. Thus, causing issues after install.

I've tried downloading a few of the drivers, but when installing the LAN drivers it says, "Realtek Network Controller was not found. If deep sleep mode enabled please plug the cable."

 

[opticalmace]

How much of a difference can one expect when jumping from a 1080p monitor to a 1440p one?

Also, is it wise to stick to 60 Hz? My purpose would be for gaming. A single 980Ti is a good card for the resolution, right?

I would go 1440p 144Hz gsync.

 

[Sequincer]

How much of a difference can one expect when jumping from a 1080p monitor to a 1440p one?

Also, is it wise to stick to 60 Hz? My purpose would be for gaming. A single 980Ti is a good card for the resolution, right?

Depends what your budget is; if you have a 980 Ti, then 1440p would be a good resolution for gaming and having G-Sync would give you the most noticeable difference. I recently bought the Acer XB270HU (27 inch IPS 144Hz G-Sync display) and I love it. 1440p for 27" is great as you can't see any pixelation and I can play most games at max settings whilst maintaining 60fps with a single titan x.

I highly recomend you buy it from a local retailer because Acer has really bad quality control when it comes to this monitor and you may need to send it for replacement like I did until you get a good one.

As for 60Hz, it depends on what games you play. If you are into FPS games like CS:GO where motion and pixel-perfect actions are important, then go for 120/144hz.

 

[hockeypuck]

This being my second PC build ever, the putting-hardware-together part was the easiest and funnest part of the whole thing. Getting the thing to properly POST and into BIOS was the worst.

Always wanted to do the boxes shot. The plain small box contains the Samsung M.2 SSD, no fancy box.

I find checklists helpful, lest my excitement makes me overlook a step.

Look ma, no SATA cables! Samsung doesn't give you the necessary bolt and screw to install this thing. Asus provides them with the motherboard. A smaller Phillips screwdriver is recommended.

Fractal's Define S case was overall very easy to build in. Love the direct airflow path of my intake fans. The I/O shield gave me fits, as usual. Screw that thing. Cable management was a breeze and I didn't need to re-organize my cables. Lack of SATA cables helped.

Only required a single zip tie, the rest was managed with the four velcro straps supplied by Fractal. Seasonic for some reason provides you with three Velcro straps, too.

Lessons learned:
1. Use the OP when you're stuck. I couldn't POST, then remembered the troubleshooting checklist by Hazaro, and I discovered a bad RAM stick. Crucial, why you do this to me.
2. The NH-D15 front fan will still need to be raised a little bit to accommodate the RAM, even if they don't have raised heatsinks. I had to raise mine by a couple millimeters.
3. The Asus Z170-A motherboard doesn't include a jumper to clear out your CMOS. I had to use my screwdriver to short-circuit the two pins. You need a microscope to understand Asus' diagram of which two pins to short.

Thanks for all the help, PC-GAF!

 

[kennah]

Looks awesome. Beautifully done.

 

[Sequincer]

This being my second PC build ever, the putting-hardware-together part was the easiest and funnest part of the whole thing. Getting the thing to properly POST and into BIOS was the worst.

Always wanted to do the boxes shot. The plain small box contains the Samsung M.2 SSD, no fancy box.



I find checklists helpful, lest my excitement makes me overlook a step.


Look ma, no SATA cables! Samsung didn't give you the necessary bolt and screw necessary to install this thing. Asus provided them with the motherboard. A smaller Phillips screwdriver is recommended.



Fractal's Define S case was overall very easy to build in. Love the direct airflow path of my intake fans. The I/O shield gave me fits, as usual. Screw that thing. Cable management was a breeze and I didn't need to re-organize my cables. Lack of SATA cables helped.



Only required a single zip tie, the rest was managed with the velcro straps supplied by Fractal.


Thanks for all the help, PC-GAF!

I have the same case and I love it. Looking at the parts you picked, it seems you have done your homework since MSI is what I would go for if air cooling a 980 Ti (Silent and no coil whine!). As for the RAM, I have Corsair's low profile RAM and I still had to raise the fan slightly so that is normal.

 

[hockeypuck]

As for the RAM, I have Corsair's low profile RAM and I still had to raise the fan slightly so that is normal.

Corsair's LPX RAM still adds about 2 mm height. The Crucial Ballistix RAM I chose intentionally because they only stuck a few metallic plates to the sides of the RAM without adding any height whatsoever. The front NH-D15 fan still didn't lower to the intended level. I agree that it won't make a lick of difference to temps so it's mainly a style/OCD thing.

 

[Wag]

The NH-D15 is huge. I added a 2nd fan to my True Spirit 140 BW Rev .A (and that's a pretty big heatsink by itself) and it's nowhere near close to that. I ended up paying like $70 for mine after the 2nd fan, I bet it performs almost as well as the DH-15.

 

[RGM79]

This being my second PC build ever, the putting-hardware-together part was the easiest and funnest part of the whole thing. Getting the thing to properly POST and into BIOS was the worst.

Always wanted to do the boxes shot. The plain small box contains the Samsung M.2 SSD, no fancy box.

I find checklists helpful, lest my excitement makes me overlook a step.

Look ma, no SATA cables! Samsung doesn't give you the necessary bolt and screw to install this thing. Asus provides them with the motherboard. A smaller Phillips screwdriver is recommended.

Fractal's Define S case was overall very easy to build in. Love the direct airflow path of my intake fans. The I/O shield gave me fits, as usual. Screw that thing. Cable management was a breeze and I didn't need to re-organize my cables. Lack of SATA cables helped.

Only required a single zip tie, the rest was managed with the four velcro straps supplied by Fractal. Seasonic for some reason provides you with three Velcro straps, too.

Lessons learned:
1. Use the OP when you're stuck. I couldn't POST, then remembered the troubleshooting checklist by Hazaro, and I discovered a bad RAM stick. Crucial, why you do this to me.
2. The NH-D15 front fan will still need to be raised a little bit to accommodate the RAM, even if they don't have raised heatsinks. I had to raise mine by a couple millimeters.
3. The Asus Z170-A motherboard doesn't include a jumper to clear out your CMOS. I had to use my screwdriver to short-circuit the two pins. You need a microscope to understand Asus' diagram of which two pins to short.

Thanks for all the help, PC-GAF!

Looks amazing. I have more or less the same sort of parts that you have on hand just waiting to be put together, it's almost like seeing a preview of what's to come.

 

[Red]

Looking for a decent cheap wireless headset for chat, any suggestions?

 

[Dartastic]

Hey, so I've got a question. My PC that I built a few months ago has been acting a bit weird lately. Every once in a while the screens will just start to flicker black for a few seconds and seemingly stutter, then come back on like nothing has happened. Nothing else is acting up. It almost seems like the cables are failing but it's happening on my 2nd monitor as well. It only happens for a few seconds as well. Really not sure what's going on.

 

[SpeedySwaf]

I've tried downloading a few of the drivers, but when installing the LAN drivers it says, "Realtek Network Controller was not found. If deep sleep mode enabled please plug the cable."

Expanding on this, when I get to the device manager it doesn't list a network card or anything. Under "other devices" it has two instances of "ethernet controller" with exclamation marks. Checking the properties doesn't tell me anything more about them, either.

 

[hockeypuck]

Asus' BIOS is supposed to be the best but right now I'm struggling with it. First time I'm using an Asus board, the Z170-A seen above. I'm pretty much following HardOCP's screenshots almost to the exact numbers, but the PC just dies and can't even POST.

This is with the i5-6600K and a single stick of 4 GB DDR4-2400 since my other stick is DOA.

I initially tried a ratio of 46 with adaptive voltage 1.20V +/- 0.15V, which I thought was reasonable. Couldn't POST without reset.

Then I tried ratio of 42 with the same voltage. Even that failed. Then I noticed that the BIOS was reporting my DDR4 RAM at 6000 MHz. I have no idea how that happened, I just chose the XMP option. So I disabled XMP and still couldn't reach 4.2 OC. I tried 4.2 with manual static voltage 1.35V. Failed.

So I gave in and chose the auto-OC option. It gave me 4.3 GHz with a ratio of 42, BLCK 103, and voltage of 1.40V! Really!?? Temps remained 26-29 C across all four cores.

I'm hoping I'm just doing something really wrong in the BIOS settings or I just got the worst 6600K chip of all time. Maybe someone can school me on BLCK overclocking that doesn't mess up my RAM.

 

[JoeyJungle]

Asus' BIOS is supposed to be the best but right now I'm struggling with it. First time I'm using an Asus board, the Z170-A seen above. I'm pretty much following HardOCP's screenshots almost to the exact numbers, but the PC just dies and can't even POST.

This is with the i5-6600K and a single stick of 4 GB DDR4-2400 since my other stick is DOA.

I initially tried a ratio of 46 with adaptive voltage 1.20V +/- 0.15V, which I thought was reasonable. Couldn't POST without reset.

Then I tried ratio of 42 with the same voltage. Even that failed. Then I noticed that the BIOS was reporting my DDR4 RAM at 6000 MHz. I have no idea how that happened, I just chose the XMP option. So I disabled XMP and still couldn't reach 4.2 OC. I tried 4.2 with manual static voltage 1.35V. Failed.

So I gave in and chose the auto-OC option. It gave me 4.3 GHz with a ratio of 42, BLCK 103, and voltage of 1.40V! Really!?? Temps remained 26-29 C across all four cores.

I'm hoping I'm just doing something really wrong in the BIOS settings or I just got the worst 6600K chip of all time. Maybe someone can school me on BLCK overclocking that doesn't mess up my RAM.

I think you were changing the base clock and not the ratio. Pretty sure base clock is tied to RAM speed, which would explain how your RAM got clocked so high.

Oh, you didn't say that you went back to stock clocks. I don't know why you'd have artifacting now.. a bad overclock doesn't really result in damage.

Rebooted the PC? Reinstalled graphics drivers? Maybe even try underclocking the graphics card?

Did all those things, still have the problem. I found out the reason I couldn't install the drivers earlier was because I was accidentally trying to install the win7/8 drivers instead of win 10, so that's a load off my mind. I thought that I had burned out whatever identifies the GPU or something.

I'm starting to think it's maybe a problem with Windows, some registry got changed somehow and now the way it handles windows is weird? Sounds like a stretch, but this install is only about a week old so reformatting wouldn't be a huge deal at this point.

 

[hockeypuck]

I think you were changing the base clock and not the ratio. Pretty sure base clock is tied to RAM speed, which would explain how your RAM got clocked so high.

After updating the BIOS and I went back for a second shot. You were right, I did mess up my memory overclock. When I switch to XMP, the BIOS asks if I wanted to apply changes to CPU cores as well. I should have picked "no." Now sitting happy at 4.6 OC. Thanks.

 

[kennah]

Looks amazing. I have more or less the same sort of parts that you have on hand just waiting to be put together, it's almost like seeing a preview of what's to come.

Where are you finding the m2 drive in Canada?

 

[Cute Dragon Here]

I just realized that I haven't asked this yet, so I probably will ask it now.

Right now, my 100R has the top front intake and its sole rear exhaust taken up by Corsair AF120 Performance Edition fans, and the rear top mount is now home to the stock case fan it has. The top fan is behind the CPU cooler tower instead of in front of the CPU fan intake.

Is this as good as it gets for my case for three fans? Or should I try moving the top fan somewhere else?

 

[UrgentPS]

Guys, what's a good alternative for a Cooler Master V750S? They are out of stock at the place where I ordered my new build and they said that they don't expect a restock anytime soon. They also don't have the suggested EVGA from the OP.

It needs to power a 5820K and 980ti. Preferably something in the same price range, but I'm willing to pay more if necessary. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

 

[SleazyC]

Are there any DACs that support Dolby Headphone (or Atmos)?

Most of the DAC's I have experience with wouldn't support any software-based modification of the sound. As it stands most DACs or amps will color the sound somewhat but if you saw drastic changes it might not be viewed as good thing. I haven't really looked for this though so maybe it exists out there.

 

[low-G]

Ok, my advance RMA CPU is out for delivery, so today I get to see if I go insane or not.

I've eliminated all cases. This has to be it, right?

I'm gonna need all of GAF to pray for me, use dark magic, whatever.

 

[Jag]

Asus' BIOS is supposed to be the best but right now I'm struggling with it. First time I'm using an Asus board, the Z170-A seen above. I'm pretty much following HardOCP's screenshots almost to the exact numbers, but the PC just dies and can't even POST.

I have a similar setup except I used the Fractal R5. I don't know how you got your cables so clean, my PS cables are all over the place. My biggest issue so far is getting Windows installed again. Stupidly I bought a Windows 8 key instead of an 8.1 and it is much harder to install this way since the 8 and 8.1 keys are different.

Also can you link/PM the HardOCP guide you used. Thanks.

 

[RGM79]

Guys, what's a good alternative for a Cooler Master V750S? They are out of stock at the place where I ordered my new build and they said that they don't expect a restock anytime soon. They also don't have the suggested EVGA from the OP.

It needs to power a 5820K and 980ti. Preferably something in the same price range, but I'm willing to pay more if necessary. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

What store are you looking at? Any links to their website?

Where are you finding the m2 drive in Canada?

Well, actually I don't have a M.2 drive. I do have the same case, nearly the same motherboard, and the same cooler, though.

 

[kennah]

Dammit.

 

[hitgirl]

I forgot how windows works.. I'm selling my computer and building a skylake. Anyway I can transfer my windows to that computer? Or is it still hardware based pretty much?

 

[LiK]

installed the Asus GTX 970 STRIX last week and it's been working fine. haven't really tested it out much cuz I've been busy. it's basically a more powerful version of the Asus GTX 570, imo. same ports and design overall so it wasn't like a completely different card for me. I was able to use the same connectors and didn't even need to really worry about the Nvidia settings.

but I gotta say that blowing out the dust in my machine before the upgrade was super satisfying. the amount of dust in the fans was insane. didn't really dust it since it was built a few years ago. only vacuumed the vents from time to time. the innards weren't that bad tho. Fractal cases are awesome against dust.

 

[RGM79]

I forgot how windows works.. I'm selling my computer and building a skylake. Anyway I can transfer my windows to that computer? Or is it still hardware based pretty much?

It will always be tied to the hardware.

 

[garath]

This being my second PC build ever, the putting-hardware-together part was the easiest and funnest part of the whole thing. Getting the thing to properly POST and into BIOS was the worst.


Lessons learned:
1. Use the OP when you're stuck. I couldn't POST, then remembered the troubleshooting checklist by Hazaro, and I discovered a bad RAM stick. Crucial, why you do this to me.
2. The NH-D15 front fan will still need to be raised a little bit to accommodate the RAM, even if they don't have raised heatsinks. I had to raise mine by a couple millimeters.
3. The Asus Z170-A motherboard doesn't include a jumper to clear out your CMOS. I had to use my screwdriver to short-circuit the two pins. You need a microscope to understand Asus' diagram of which two pins to short.

Thanks for all the help, PC-GAF!

Great looking build! Quick tip, you can also reset the bios by pulling the battery out. Just in case you are nervous about shorting something with a screwdriver

 

[UrgentPS]

What store are you looking at? Any links to their website?

Alternate.nl, but I already had them replace the CM with the EVGA from the OP. Apparently they do have the EVGA, it just didn't show up on their website before.

 

[hitgirl]

Ugh wish these Skylake mini itx boards would get released.

What's the best way to do storage on a PC now adays? Get a fast 150 SSD for windows and programs. Then a big slower 500-1TB SSD?

 

[KurtFehl]

Ugh wish these Skylake mini itx boards would get released.

What's the best way to do storage on a PC now adays? Get a fast 150 SSD for windows and programs. Then a big slower 500-1TB SSD?

One SSD for the O/S and programs and how ever many HDDs you want/need. I have a 120gb SSD and two 2TB HDDs.

 

[Haribi]

I finally decided to build a new pc but have some questions beforehand I hope someone can answer.

First of all, from my old build I can keep my HDD, cd burner and psu I think. Budget is around 600€ for the rest. I actually only play CSGO and occasionally Fifa and Dota 2 so a cheaper pc would also suffice I guess but I don't want to buy a pc solely for CSGO that willl be completely useless in a year or two for everything else. Also I want to keep the option open of playing newer games. Doesn't have to be ultra settings tho medium is enough.

Also I'm sick of buying cheap pc's where I have to upgrade the whole system in just a couple years.
So my plan is to buy this pc, if necessary upgrade only the graphic card in 2 years and then upgrade the whole system in 4-5 years. So do you think these components will be still good even in ~4 years to play the newest games in at least medium settings?

Intel i5-4460
Crucial 8GB DDR3-1600
ASRock H97M Pro4

As for the graphic card, I was thinking about the Radeon 270x. I know it's more than enough for CSGO, Fifa and Dota but would I be able to play newer games with at least 30 fps for the next 2 years? Also will my current psu Be Quiet Pure Power L7 430w be enough for said components?
And what case would you recommend till ca. 50€?

Thanks

 

[hockeypuck]

Also can you link/PM the HardOCP guide you used. Thanks.

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2015/08/24/asus_z170a_lga_1151_skylake_motherboard_review/3

The overclocking screens are the set of 11 screenshots one page down.

Great looking build! Quick tip, you can also reset the bios by pulling the battery out. Just in case you are nervous about shorting something with a screwdriver

That was my back-up option. In order to access the battery I would have to uninstall the massive heatsink. That's the nice thing about ROG and other high-end boards, dedicated clear CMOS button lol.

 

[ACE 1991]

I finally decided to build a new pc but have some questions beforehand I hope someone can answer.

First of all, from my old build I can keep my HDD, cd burner and psu I think. Budget is around 600€ for the rest. I actually only play CSGO and occasionally Fifa and Dota 2 so a cheaper pc would also suffice I guess but I don't want to buy a pc solely for CSGO that willl be completely useless in a year or two for everything else. Also I want to keep the option open of playing newer games. Doesn't have to be ultra settings tho medium is enough.

Also I'm sick of buying cheap pc's where I have to upgrade the whole system in just a couple years.
So my plan is to buy this pc, if necessary upgrade only the graphic card in 2 years and then upgrade the whole system in 4-5 years. So do you think these components will be still good even in ~4 years to play the newest games in at least medium settings?

Intel i5-4460
Crucial 8GB DDR3-1600
ASRock H97M Pro4

As for the graphic card, I was thinking about the Radeon 270x. I know it's more than enough for CSGO, Fifa and Dota but would I be able to play newer games with at least 30 fps for the next 2 years? Also will my current psu Be Quiet Pure Power L7 430w be enough for said components?
And what case would you recommend till ca. 50€?

Thanks

If you're looking for longevity, consider getting the K model intel i5 so you can overclock it.