Wow, great catch. Will revert back to my other option here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGTRNXQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'll take a look at ebay as well.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Wow, great catch. Will revert back to my other option here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGTRNXQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'll take a look at ebay as well.
Try ebay, as that board is not much better really, considering its a much older chipset, and still H series meaning it cane be overclocked. Although if you dont care about overclocking then both options are ok. The H61 has only SATA 2 if that matters (ie if you have an SSD you want SATA 3). The B75 board does have a SATA 3 port since it was the newer of the 2 chipsets.
Possibly something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-P8Z77-V-PRO-Socket-1155-Mainboard-w-VGA-DVI-HDMI-Refurbished-/221880118493?hash=item33a915ecdd
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-P8Z77-M-Pro-Socket-1155-Mainboard-w-VGA-DVI-and-HDMI-DDR3-24-Refurbished-/311441839281?hash=item48836154b1
You turn on aero. Usually if themes and desktop composition is disabled it disables animations, and general responsiveness is lowered.
Yoshichan
And they made him a Lord of Cinder. Not for virtue, but for might. Such is a lord, I suppose. But here I ask. Do we have a sodding chance?
Got it! THANK YOU!
Have now updated my build plan for November:
Intel Core i7 i7-4790K CPU (Quad Core 4GHz, Socket H3 LGA-1150)
Noctua NH-D15 CPU Cooler
Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 3 Socket 1150 VGA DVI HDMI 8 Channel Audio ATX Motherboard
HyperX FURY Series 16GB (2x 8GB) DDR3 1866MHz CL10 DIMM Memory Module Kit - Black
Cooler Master SGC-5000W-KWN1 Stryker "USB 3.0, Side Window Panel, Full Tower Case" White with White LED
Corsair RM1000 1000W PSU
Kingston Technology 120GB Solid State Drive 2.5-inch V300 SATA 3
Decided to go for the white Storm Stryker instead of the black Storm Trooper, I guess they couldn't name them the other way around due to legal issues lol. It's cheaper and has the same amount of fans and excellent airflow.
Changed the motherboard because the Gaming 3 motherboard above has better Crossfire performance for if/when I get a second GPU.
Changed the RAM from 1600MHz to 1833MHz because the Gaming 3 motherboard supports it.
And changed the power supply from 850W to 1000W because I'm not sure about the power requirements of the next generation of GPUs from Nvidia and AMD will be.
Altogether, assuming that I get a minimum of a 10% discount from Bespoke/Flubit, it should set me back around £688...although RAM has started to go up again which is a bit of a bugger.
Decided (as things stand right now, may change my mind before May next year) to go for an Asus Radeon R9 Fury X. If I bought that today I could get it for £452.69, again, assuming I get a 10% discount from Bespoke or Flubit.
New GPUs from both Nvidia and AMD will be announced soon so I may change the GPU between now and May next year depending on what's available and whether I can afford to get a newer and more powerful card.
Intel Core i7 i7-4790K CPU (Quad Core 4GHz, Socket H3 LGA-1150)
Noctua NH-D15 CPU Cooler
Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 3 Socket 1150 VGA DVI HDMI 8 Channel Audio ATX Motherboard
HyperX FURY Series 16GB (2x 8GB) DDR3 1866MHz CL10 DIMM Memory Module Kit - Black
Cooler Master SGC-5000W-KWN1 Stryker "USB 3.0, Side Window Panel, Full Tower Case" White with White LED
Corsair RM1000 1000W PSU
Kingston Technology 120GB Solid State Drive 2.5-inch V300 SATA 3
Decided to go for the white Storm Stryker instead of the black Storm Trooper, I guess they couldn't name them the other way around due to legal issues lol. It's cheaper and has the same amount of fans and excellent airflow.
Changed the motherboard because the Gaming 3 motherboard above has better Crossfire performance for if/when I get a second GPU.
Changed the RAM from 1600MHz to 1833MHz because the Gaming 3 motherboard supports it.
And changed the power supply from 850W to 1000W because I'm not sure about the power requirements of the next generation of GPUs from Nvidia and AMD will be.
Altogether, assuming that I get a minimum of a 10% discount from Bespoke/Flubit, it should set me back around £688...although RAM has started to go up again which is a bit of a bugger.
Decided (as things stand right now, may change my mind before May next year) to go for an Asus Radeon R9 Fury X. If I bought that today I could get it for £452.69, again, assuming I get a 10% discount from Bespoke or Flubit.
New GPUs from both Nvidia and AMD will be announced soon so I may change the GPU between now and May next year depending on what's available and whether I can afford to get a newer and more powerful card.
Are you sure you want to go with Haswell? Skylake is out.
Also we highly recommend against the Kingston V300 SSD. It's a poor performer and Kingston acknowledges they did wrong but won't do anything about it, of course.
As for graphics cards, AMD just announced the Fury X not that long ago, I highly doubt they'll announce another flagship graphics card to replace it between now and May. Nvidia won't be topping their GTX 980 Ti or Titan X anytime soon either as those were also announced just a few months ago. Nvidia's Pascal is still in development and won't be ready until sometime in 2016.
Big Baybee
Member
Is there an issue with Windows 10 where your pc stops recognizing USB devices like a mouse or keyboard? If so, how can I fix this because it's fucking annoying holy shit
As far as I know, no. It's probably your hardware, unfortunately.
Big Baybee
Member
Ugh.
CreepingFear
Member
I want Intel to
but still no 6700k.
but still no 6700k.
Going for that particular Haswell because at £244.17 (or £219.76 once I get at least 10% off) it's got great bang for buck and it's easy to overclock. Should have no problems running VR games with decent quality eye candy for a few years alongside the Radeon R9 Fury X. And once games start coming out that really push the two together I can always get another Fury X to lighten the load.
Thanks for letting me know about that SSD. Is the next one up from that, the 240GB one, in the same boat..? It's only 12 quid more expensive I think. Will start reading the article as soon as I post this to get the full SP.
Ally1987
Member
its maybe because your cpu fan rpm isnt running to its requirement when it boot up
Well, it happened to me two or three times I think. My pc didn't recognize my logitech g600 mouse and g13 and I had to reboot. It happened only while playing FFXIV and using DS4, so I thought it was related only to that game.
Or maybe he plugged the heatsink's fan into a fan header that wasn't the CPU fan header.
Probably, though I have no clue why the motherboard would start freaking out over it only yesterday since I've had the heatsink/fan for months now. Forgot my can of compressed air at a friend's place so I can't even open the case up to give it a blow out. My motherboard (Asus M4A77TD) BIOS sucks so there's no way to set it ignore certain RPM values so I've just disabled CPU monitoring for the time being.
Nah b.
Nostremitus
Member
He says it's in the right header and hasn't had any issues until now. Considering the age of his CPU it seems to have been working correctly for some years now. Fan motor could be slowing down of the header could be going bad. That AM3 board could be showing it's age, too.
CreepingFear
Member
How it feels to kill your CPU by improperly deliding, your PSU dying and your motherboard dying all within 2 days...
(mobo and PSU are luckily under warranty)
Damn man, sorry to hear that. Delidding scares the crap out of me.
It should. That being said, there is still a super small chance I did not kill it. I won't know for certain until I get more liquid metal thermal compound. Here's hoping.
Some things I learned:
- There is really only one way to delid (clamp the PCB, heat gun the chip around the edges to weaken the glue, careful taps on the IHS with a piece of wood between a hammer)
- Your work environment must be SPOTLESS
- Use anti ESD gloves just to be sure
- A q-tip is too course to polish a die. Soft cloth/microfier cloth wet with IPA is better
- Liquid metal is LIQUID, is a bitch to work with and needs to be treated with extreme care
- You should remove all the glue from the PCB and then reapply fresh glue
- If you don't do this the IHS may scratch the die.
Finally, the ONLY scenario you should delid is if you are doing it on an old or extra chip. Even with that, you should only do it if that chip is a stinker and you want to normalize its performance.
You live and your learn.
Crimsonlink
Member
Alright guys I'm building my first PC ever. Here is what I got so far.
Intel Core i5-4460 LGA 1150 CPU - BX80646I54460
Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB Kit (4GBx2) DDR3 1600 (PC3-12800) 240-Pin UDIMM Memory BLS2KIT4G3D1609DS1S00/BLS2CP4G3D1609DS1S00
Sapphire Radeon R9 270 2GB GDDR5 DVI-I/DVI-D/HDMI/DP Dual-X with Boost and OC Version PCI-Express Graphics Cards 11220-00-20G
EVGA 500 W1 80+, 500W Continuous Power, 3 Year Warranty Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR
Asus 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM Optical Drive DRW-24B1ST (Black)
WD Blue 1TB Desktop 3.5 Inch SATA 6Gb/s 7200rpm Internal Hard Drive
Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-01 RED LED Black ATX Mid Tower Gaming Computer Case
ASRock H97M Pro4 LGA 1150 Intel H97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Please help this noob out and explain if anything doesn't mesh well together. I tried following Hazaro's guide as much as I can and got it around to my $650 budget.
I also need to buy a monitor but that can wait until next month.
Intel Core i5-4460 LGA 1150 CPU - BX80646I54460
Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB Kit (4GBx2) DDR3 1600 (PC3-12800) 240-Pin UDIMM Memory BLS2KIT4G3D1609DS1S00/BLS2CP4G3D1609DS1S00
Sapphire Radeon R9 270 2GB GDDR5 DVI-I/DVI-D/HDMI/DP Dual-X with Boost and OC Version PCI-Express Graphics Cards 11220-00-20G
EVGA 500 W1 80+, 500W Continuous Power, 3 Year Warranty Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR
Asus 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM Optical Drive DRW-24B1ST (Black)
WD Blue 1TB Desktop 3.5 Inch SATA 6Gb/s 7200rpm Internal Hard Drive
Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-01 RED LED Black ATX Mid Tower Gaming Computer Case
ASRock H97M Pro4 LGA 1150 Intel H97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Please help this noob out and explain if anything doesn't mesh well together. I tried following Hazaro's guide as much as I can and got it around to my $650 budget.
I also need to buy a monitor but that can wait until next month.
MR ARCADE FOREVER
Member
When are the direct x 12 games coming out??
A couple years after people start programming them.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Some of us are still hoping the PC version of Gears of War UE comes out this year
Did not mess with timings much, but I did double check the voltages... Oh well, there's no extra inefficiency to running at DDR4-2900 vs DDR4-3000 besides 50MHz on the RAM, right?
Some peripherals like a flight stick can cause it. Unplug everything that isn't M+KB and see if it happens.
Even if I delidded (I have one) I wouldn't use liquid metal. NOPE.
Parts are good, if you can toss another $30 into GPU to get a 280 or 280X it'll go a long long way for value.
Yeah pretty much whatever.
Crimsonlink
Member
Thank you and while I thought about it, this is just a stepping stone to my next PC which will have pascal possibly unless AMD goes ham and brings the goods. Not Smokey level but above decent where I can hit 4k.
Would the 280 or 280X make a huge difference in fps or image quality? Is it the VRAM?
Yes, yes.
Small bump in total computer cost for large returns (see: minimum FPS). 280X is a decent bump too, but not as much. That's why only the 265 and 280 are in the OP builds.
The R9 380, rebadged 285 if I'm correct (not to be confused with R9 280 which is a rebadged 7950).
Async compute will be an important feature for the future in DX12 games.
The 4gb 960 is not a terrible choice but its legs are probably not as long as the AMD card.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
I think I might want to start with asking this:
Diablos, what's your current CPU and power supply? The R9 380 does seem to have better legs if async compute actually becomes a big thing, but driver overhead in DX11 games is still a very real concern. Or the power consumption and requirements for PEG plugs.
FX6300 (95W). PSU is 500W.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Oh dear.
Things might swing in favour of NVIDIA's side in terms of driver overhead in DirectX 11-based games, then.
The PSU should be fine with either card, but if only I knew what exact model it is...
It's a Seasonic 500W PSU. High quality but I've had it for 8 years -- amazing it still works as good as it did when I bought it.
Pretty sure this is the model: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151029
Pretty sure this is the model: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151029
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Looks plenty solid of a PSU, but remember that PSUs degrade over time. You might want to consider also getting a better PSU, since your current PSU is likely three years out of warranty. No knowing how well it'd handle under heavy (but not as high as labelled) load at this point.
What's your current video card, by the way? If it seems to have a similar TDP to the 380 or 960, or lower, you probably can get away with not replacing the PSU at the same time, at least for the next year or so.
Personally, I think I'll just ask you: do you prefer average performance for the dollar, or much better performance consistency?
Much better performance consistency.
I have a GTX 660, non-Ti. I think it's ~150W.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127699
I have a GTX 660, non-Ti. I think it's ~150W.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127699
I've been really lucky with my last two power supplies, I always run my machines 24/7 and my current PSU has lasted me 7 years of pretty much constant use. Mind you, I sold my last PC to a mate of mine and it died pretty quickly soon afterwards lol.
Fable Legends this year, possibly Gears as well.
2016 : Deus Ex, Hitman and others.
Nakkilokki
Banned
Ok, I just flashed my ancient HD6950 with the HD6970 BIOS (common trick at the time) and I'm pretty happy with the performance gains, but I ran into curious problems with this setup. Firstly, my monitor will only get a video signal once Windows 10 is loaded (so even if I go to UEFI, the graphics card won't send any signal). Secondly, when I'm running the 6970 BIOS, I can't put the computer to sleep mode, picture related:
Only Shut Down (Sammuta) and Restart Computer (Käynnistä uudelleen) are available.
Whenever I switch back to the 6950 BIOS, everything is normal. Sleep mode works, I can see the UEFI normally. Could anyone help me with this problem?
I'm this close to just buying a new card, but I'd just want to wait until new stuff! I wouldn't want to buy a year old card at the moment...
Edit. I've possibly narrowed down the problem:
There's a new goddamn monitor 1 when running the 6970 BIOS. What the heck is that thing? Monitor 3 is my desktop monitor which I normally use. I'm pretty sure that on start-up, the UEFI is sent to monitor 1 and I have no idea what it is even. How do I get rid of it?
Only Shut Down (Sammuta) and Restart Computer (Käynnistä uudelleen) are available.
Whenever I switch back to the 6950 BIOS, everything is normal. Sleep mode works, I can see the UEFI normally. Could anyone help me with this problem?
I'm this close to just buying a new card, but I'd just want to wait until new stuff! I wouldn't want to buy a year old card at the moment...
Edit. I've possibly narrowed down the problem:
There's a new goddamn monitor 1 when running the 6970 BIOS. What the heck is that thing? Monitor 3 is my desktop monitor which I normally use. I'm pretty sure that on start-up, the UEFI is sent to monitor 1 and I have no idea what it is even. How do I get rid of it?
Ok, I just flashed my ancient HD6950 with the HD6970 BIOS (common trick at the time) and I'm pretty happy with the performance gains, but I ran into curious problems with this setup. Firstly, my monitor will only get a video signal once Windows 10 is loaded (so even if I go to UEFI, the graphics card won't send any signal). Secondly, when I'm running the 6970 BIOS, I can't put the computer to sleep mode, picture related:
Only Shut Down (Sammuta) and Restart Computer (Käynnistä uudelleen) are available.
Whenever I switch back to the 6950 BIOS, everything is normal. Sleep mode works, I can see the UEFI normally. Could anyone help me with this problem?
I'm this close to just buying a new card, but I'd just want to wait until new stuff! I wouldn't want to buy a year old card at the moment...
Edit. I've possibly narrowed down the problem:
There's a new goddamn monitor 1 when running the 6970 BIOS. What the heck is that thing? Monitor 3 is my desktop monitor which I normally use. I'm pretty sure that on start-up, the UEFI is sent to monitor 1 and I have no idea what it is even. How do I get rid of it?
I don't know anything about graphics card BIOS modding, but have you tried a graphics driver reinstallation? Use Display Driver Uninstaller.
It isn't too bad applying... it is the removal that is dangerous. First, when you wipe it up, it does not absorb into the cloth, merely kinda floats on the surface and can easily spill out. Then if it gets on ANY surface, expect an uphill battle to completely remove it. Some got on my table surface and it took like 5 minutes to completely remove 1 salt granule size drop.
Hey guys, I've not been paying a lot of attention to newer processor updates. Has Intel made any improvements to the multi-core usage / turbo mode? It used to be that they could drop clock speeds pretty drastically when using multiple cores on the first generation cores. Is that still the case?
Intel has pretty much been focussing on power management each generation over pure performance. The new chips clock up and down extremely well with respect to load and therefore are very efficient.
I thought they didn't so much drop clock speed when using multiple cores, more like their turbo boost mode would clock up but use fewer cores. That's always been the case, it helps keep heat in check. Only one or two cores running at a higher clock speed wouldn't produce as much heat as all cores running at a higher clock speed.
If you want performance, you could always do some manual settings for overclocking. Having all cores run at 4.0GHz or higher is possible, for example. All you need is a cheap aftermarket CPU cooler.
Yeah I guess my wording is a bit off. From what I've read it seems to just reduce the highest possible clockspeed when multiple cores just to keep power usage/heat in check like you've said.
I'm thinking of upgrading, but I need multiprocessing for some non-gaming stuff that I do so wasn't sure if the newer chips have gotten improvements in this area or not. I'll definitely grab an aftermarket cooler, but I also want something as quiet as possible most of the time.
Thanks guys!
Sorry, I didn't mean to nitpick your wording. What sort of multi-threaded work are you doing? If silence is what you want, then there are specific heatsinks that we can recommend that are well-regarded for low noise and effectiveness.
As far as I know, the i5 6600K isn't in extremely short supply or anything, so it's not like you can likely get more than what you paid (at least not easily). I think selling either at cost or slightly below cost would be best..
Right, was thinking like 240 or so, does that sound fair or is that too high?
Shining Sunshine
Banned
Awww shieettt... my i7-6700k has called in.
- Status