Try a USB 2 port.
Check the boot config in bios is not forced to boot UEFI, rather both UEFI or Legacy or Auto.
This is normal. Moving/sliding is fine but lifting it is not.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Try a USB 2 port.
Check the boot config in bios is not forced to boot UEFI, rather both UEFI or Legacy or Auto.
This is normal. Moving/sliding is fine but lifting it is not.
Shining Sunshine
Banned
I just realized there were some USB ports I hadn't noticed. They were the boot USB ports lol. Thanks
insane0hflex
Member
Anyone with an SLI 970 + an i5 4690k or i7 4790k? What PSU do you have? I have a 550w Gold Cert. PSU and was wondering whether to buy another 970 to SLI for 4k. According to the CoolerMaster PSU calculator - I should be good to go with an i5 4690k with 2x 970 SLI'd together
And/Or -
GTX 960 2GB or R9 380 4GB? For a 1080p monitor. Really on the fence with this one.
Most of the information I get is that the 4GB of VRAM isn't really necessary for 1080p gaming at med-high (NOT ultra) settings for most AAA titles. Therefore, I'm thinking of the nVidia 2GB card option, since nVidia is pretty damn good at drivers/optimizations for the games I/my roomates play.
The rig I'm building is like a home center, aiming to play Fallout 4 and Just Cause 3 and other new-ish releases on relatively high settings.
And/Or -
GTX 960 2GB or R9 380 4GB? For a 1080p monitor. Really on the fence with this one.
Most of the information I get is that the 4GB of VRAM isn't really necessary for 1080p gaming at med-high (NOT ultra) settings for most AAA titles. Therefore, I'm thinking of the nVidia 2GB card option, since nVidia is pretty damn good at drivers/optimizations for the games I/my roomates play.
The rig I'm building is like a home center, aiming to play Fallout 4 and Just Cause 3 and other new-ish releases on relatively high settings.
What power supply model do you have? Yes.. a 550 watt PSU might just be enough to run it (~100 watts for the CPU, ~50 watts for the motherboard, ~180 watts for each GTX 970, ~10 watts for each hard drive, ~2.5 watts for each fan and SSD), but it's not recommended at all.
If you want to run two GTX 970s, you'll want a stronger power supply of around 750 watts. It's not because it'll actually consume that much wattage, but because you don't want to be running your power supply right at the limit of what it is rated for and stressing it. A cheap 550 watt power supply might not actually put out 550 watts on the 12V rail. Yes, there are such things as cheap gold-rated power supplies, like this Corsair 550 watt gold model which only outputs 516 watts of 12V power or this Antec 550 watt gold model which only does 504 watts at 12V. The 12V rail is the important one that powers most of your PC. Besides, most 550 watt power supplies I've seen only have two 6+2 PCI-E power cables maximum and nearly every GTX 970 requires two of those, meaning you'd need to use cable adaptors to get a second set of 6+2 power cables. That's not really a good practice we recommend either.
Besides, power supplies run best when they're not at their upper limit, when considering efficiency and heat. Any power supply efficiency chart will tell you it runs best near 50% load more than anything else. The harder a power supply works, the more heat and stress placed on the unit, and the more wear over time. Over time, a power supply will output less and less due to stress and weardown on components.
With two GTX 970s on a 550W PSU, you definitely wouldn't want to try overclocking either. Parts will draw more wattage when overclocked. The PSU might shut down or the PC won't be running well if the PSU can't supply enough wattage. Worst case scenario, the PSU shorts out or blows up and damages or kills other parts connected to it.
As for graphics card recommendations, it's hard to recommend only 2GB VRAM even for 1080p if you're looking for higher end performance. Maybe for now you might not be playing games that will use that much VRAM, or it might not even currently prove a bottleneck to performance in some situations (at medium/high settings like you said), but there's always the future to think about. Driver and game code optimizations won't completely prevent a lack of VRAM from being a problem in the future. If you really are aiming for "new-ish releases on relatively high settings", just go with 4GB and save yourself from being potentially bottlenecked or having to upgrade the graphics card prematurely in the future.
What's your budget for a new graphics card?
Song of the Turtle
Member
My PC suddely won't turn on. It worked fine yesterday and now shows no sign of life at all. I press the power switch and literally nothing happens. No LED light, no sound.
Whats the best way to find out what part died? Case (Fractal Define R4) and Mobo (ASRock Z97) are like 2 Months old and worked like a charm until today. The rest (Seasonic 760W Bronze, 4670k, GTX760) is one and a half years old. Nothing is OCed.
I reaaaaly hope its just the power switch
Whats the best way to find out what part died? Case (Fractal Define R4) and Mobo (ASRock Z97) are like 2 Months old and worked like a charm until today. The rest (Seasonic 760W Bronze, 4670k, GTX760) is one and a half years old. Nothing is OCed.
I reaaaaly hope its just the power switch
Did your R4 front bezel come off recently? I accidently disconnected the power connector cable when I pulled the front off. It was a pain to reconnect the cable though because it's tiny.My PC suddely won't turn on. It worked fine yesterday and now shows no sign of life at all. I press the power switch and literally nothing happens. No LED light, no sound.
Whats the best way to find out what part died? Case (Fractal Define R4) and Mobo (ASRock Z97) are like 2 Months old and worked like a charm until today. The rest (Seasonic 760W Bronze, 4670k, GTX760) is one and a half years old. Nothing is OCed.
I reaaaaly hope its just the power switch
But if you don't have a lit led on your mobo it's probably dead. Or the PSU.
Song of the Turtle
Member
I just checked the power connector and it is still connected. Is there an easier way to check the mobo than just replacing it? I still have an old one lying around but I really do not want to change it unless I have to.
You'll have to unplug most of your hardware except RAM, or you won't be able to troubleshoot. You don't have a spare PSU somewhere to check that out first? Or plug your current PSU into that old motherboard?
Jag
Member
No idea, but here is a pretty active G Sync thread you can follow as well.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=939724
j0hnny_385
Member
So the other day I bought an 64GB mini SDHX card for my 3DS. I knew I had to format the card to FAT32 and used SDFormatter for this, just to be greeted with the insane amount of 1MB on the card. I thought the card is defect and exchanged it for a new one. Same thing happened again. At that point, I was so confused I tried to format the 64GB card I had in my phone, of which I knew it was working correctly. At least it did up to that point. Now it's just another 1MB card.
I made the conclusion that the problem is probably on my end. Currently I'm thinking it may be possible the card reader I'm using is not fully compatible with SDHX. Before I go out and buy a new one I wanted to ask if anyone has another idea what might cause this?
I made the conclusion that the problem is probably on my end. Currently I'm thinking it may be possible the card reader I'm using is not fully compatible with SDHX. Before I go out and buy a new one I wanted to ask if anyone has another idea what might cause this?
Well, this begs the question: What SD card reader are you using? Does it say SDXC on it?
Headsteyker
Member
SP guys i built the PC, it turned on end I saw new CPU ram and the USB devices than press F1 to enter the setup and now it want boot not a single led is on
th4tguy
Member
OK, Gaf. I'm in the market for a new monitor. My budget is anything less than $100. I also need an hdmi port and ideally an audio out port (so I can hook up the PS4).
Ideally something with low response time although for $100 or less, I'm not expecting the best. As for size, anything around 21" is fine. Can anyone help with suggestions?
late edit: require 1080p resolution.
Ideally something with low response time although for $100 or less, I'm not expecting the best. As for size, anything around 21" is fine. Can anyone help with suggestions?
late edit: require 1080p resolution.
th4tguy
Member
Make sure there are no loose cables to your power supply. Then check the cable connections to your MOBO. Finally check your fan connections and make sure the ram and cpu are firmly in place.
Headsteyker
Member
Also when I press the power button I heard like a click from the PSU
My PC suddely won't turn on. It worked fine yesterday and now shows no sign of life at all. I press the power switch and literally nothing happens. No LED light, no sound.
Whats the best way to find out what part died? Case (Fractal Define R4) and Mobo (ASRock Z97) are like 2 Months old and worked like a charm until today. The rest (Seasonic 760W Bronze, 4670k, GTX760) is one and a half years old. Nothing is OCed.
I reaaaaly hope its just the power switch
Have you tried taking the CMOS battery out for a while and then plugging it back in?
I'm almost positive now it's the card reader. I use this one http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000IH1W20/ though on my version of it it doesn't say anything about SDXC on it.
Even if it looks similar, it probably isn't the same model if it doesn't have the same markings. Try another card reader.
Here's all the monitors that meet your requirements. What do you mean by "audio out port"?
Headsteyker
Member
Now it booted I simply took the power cord out :/, but I have a new problem I
A friend gave me an ssd and it has win 10 installed so how can I install my new copy which is on a USB drive an OEM version?
A friend gave me an ssd and it has win 10 installed so how can I install my new copy which is on a USB drive an OEM version?
th4tguy
Member
Head phone jack. Something that would allow me to take the audio being output by the hdmi and output it to speakers. Edited the original post. Looking for 1080p.
RRP is supposed to be around the £285-£295 mark, but they're so hard to get hold of that they've got a bit of a premium on them right now. It will probably be late October before prices start to level again, but if you want one at the moment you're looking nearer £315.
th4tguy
Member
Between the two following moniitors, which would GAF go with?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BZNDOO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
(104 after rebate but 5ms response time)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZSUWFG/?tag=neogaf0e-20
(25$ more but 2ms response time. Not sure how the other settings stack up compared)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BZNDOO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
(104 after rebate but 5ms response time)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZSUWFG/?tag=neogaf0e-20
(25$ more but 2ms response time. Not sure how the other settings stack up compared)
CreepingFear
Member
1TB 850 Pro came today, along with my Define R5. 6700k is the only thing holding me back from purchasing the rest of the parts.
So far I have the 980 Ti Classified in my current rig, 860 Watt Modular Platinum Seasonic PSU, 1TB 850 Pro SSD, and the Define R5.
So far I have the 980 Ti Classified in my current rig, 860 Watt Modular Platinum Seasonic PSU, 1TB 850 Pro SSD, and the Define R5.
Thanks. It looks like it dropped to £280 on Ebuyer today, but by the time I got there is was back up to £309!
Haloid1177
Banned
My 6700k just shipped from Amazon! Should be here tomorrow.
Don't forget that you can always use the Bespoke or Flubit websites to get a little more off, although Flubit is restricted to items from the Amazon.co.uk website only.
CreepingFear
Member
Congrats and I hate you.
insane0hflex
Member
Yeah I agree with your points about the PSU after some more research. Seems like a 750W PSU would be a safe bet. I was entertaining the idea for a new GTX 970 so that I can just remove it from this home-center build when I want to. I think I'll just deal with that later.
My budget for a new card is about $200 give or take 20 bucks or so.
I think for now I'm trying to decide whether to go with a EVGA 960 2GB model, a 960 4GB model, or the r9 380 4GB model. The 960 4GB was looking really promising, buuut it only has a 128bit bus and the 960 solves that small bus by doing some neat compression algorithms and stuff.
The research between the r9 380 and GTX 960 seems to be that they are pretty similar, mainly depending on who optimized the game's drivers gets an edge in performance.
At the end of the day, I'm just aiming to get 1080p 60fps at medium-high settings, as this is just a budget build.
Shining Sunshine
Banned
Yeah you always want slightly more than enough watt for a PC.
Have to account for the PC drawing more than advertised power. An underpowered PC will start destroying components if it's not getting clean power.
Have to account for the PC drawing more than advertised power. An underpowered PC will start destroying components if it's not getting clean power.
Barajas_201
Member
Alright guys, I've asked here before about this but I wasn't convinced from the replies so I'm gonna try again with more info (and pics) and hopefully better wording.
So I have the HP 6005 small for factor PC and it has a non replaceable proprietary PSU of 240W so I can't upgrade to any GPU, it has to be a low profile small factor variation because the case is also small (exactly: 3.95 x 13.30 x 14.90 in). I've searched the web already about this and all I've found was 3 year old threads with obviously 3 year old GPU recommendations, I want recommendations on the best and/or cheapest low profile GPU out in the market today and since I live in Mexico the only place I can purchase GPUs from is amazon. The latest GPU I've found that could run on my system is the EVGA GeForce GT 610 but I think that one is old but I'm no expert on PC gaming since I've always been on consoles. I mainly want to play games like Kotor, Battlefront 2, Fallouts, and the most demanding game I have Battlefield 3.
Here are pics of the case and the PSU information about amps and volts:
Case (its dirty I know)
PSU
If someone can help me out with this particular case I would be greatly indebted.
So I have the HP 6005 small for factor PC and it has a non replaceable proprietary PSU of 240W so I can't upgrade to any GPU, it has to be a low profile small factor variation because the case is also small (exactly: 3.95 x 13.30 x 14.90 in). I've searched the web already about this and all I've found was 3 year old threads with obviously 3 year old GPU recommendations, I want recommendations on the best and/or cheapest low profile GPU out in the market today and since I live in Mexico the only place I can purchase GPUs from is amazon. The latest GPU I've found that could run on my system is the EVGA GeForce GT 610 but I think that one is old but I'm no expert on PC gaming since I've always been on consoles. I mainly want to play games like Kotor, Battlefront 2, Fallouts, and the most demanding game I have Battlefield 3.
Here are pics of the case and the PSU information about amps and volts:
Case (its dirty I know)
PSU
If someone can help me out with this particular case I would be greatly indebted.
Shining Sunshine
Banned
Is there any issue using an Displayport to DVI adapter into a DVI to VGA adapter?
I'm missing a DVI cable and my monitor doesn't support Displayport (it's 10 years old).
I'm missing a DVI cable and my monitor doesn't support Displayport (it's 10 years old).
I have a weird question
I never bothered much lookin at PCI stuff bus interface yadda yadda when I put together this PC on this mobo
recently launched gpu-z and realized this
supports 16x, running at 8x
do I have something on a wrong slot or somethin?
im on an asus P8P67 LE
this is all I see under BIOS, not sure where I should have it set;
I never bothered much lookin at PCI stuff bus interface yadda yadda when I put together this PC on this mobo
recently launched gpu-z and realized this
supports 16x, running at 8x
do I have something on a wrong slot or somethin?
im on an asus P8P67 LE
this is all I see under BIOS, not sure where I should have it set;
MisterNoisy
Member
I have a weird question
I never bothered much lookin at PCI stuff bus interface yadda yadda when I put together this PC on this mobo
recently launched gpu-z and realized this
supports 16x, running at 8x
do I have something on a wrong slot or somethin?
im on an asus P8P67 LE
this is all I see under BIOS, not sure where I should have it set;
EDIT: Assuming your video card is in the blue slot 1, do you have anything in slot 2? What options are you given for slot 1 in the BIOS?
I only have 1 680
it was preset to x2 tho
if I run x4 on BIOS will it show proper 16x rather than 8x in GPU-Z?
MisterNoisy
Member
It shouldn't matter, actually. Assuming you don't get similar options for slot 1 (x16/x8), I'm not 100% sure.
Shining Sunshine
Banned
Posting from my new PC ooooooooooh baby
relegated to 1 monitor since I don't have the proper cables...
relegated to 1 monitor since I don't have the proper cables...
My PC suddely won't turn on. It worked fine yesterday and now shows no sign of life at all. I press the power switch and literally nothing happens. No LED light, no sound.
Whats the best way to find out what part died? Case (Fractal Define R4) and Mobo (ASRock Z97) are like 2 Months old and worked like a charm until today. The rest (Seasonic 760W Bronze, 4670k, GTX760) is one and a half years old. Nothing is OCed.
I reaaaaly hope its just the power switch
If you get no fans spinning at all, check the power switch. You can short out the 2 pins on the front panel connector on the board with something metal to remove the case switch from the equation.
Are there any leds on the board lit up?
Yeah, you've come to the same conclusions that I usually tell people about deciding between the GTX 960 or the R9 380. Check and see which does slightly better in the games you care about, and go for best value. A short while back there was the MGSV:TPP free redeemable code promotion for Nvidia cards so I was recommending the GTX 960 more often, but since that's over there's not as much incentive to go for Nvidia unless you want something like the Shadowplay program for game recording. Yes, the GTX 960's small bus doesn't seem to be as bad as it first looked. Looking at the list of GTX 960 and R9 380 prices (after rebate) it seems that for 2GB cards, this EVGA GTX 960 ($175 after $20 rebate) is alright value compared to the others, it's clocked rather high and has a twin fan cooler with silent fan mode. The 4GB cards are more or less at the $200 mark and I think it's worth spending the $25 premium over that 2GB GTX 960 as it's a little more futureproof and won't represent as much of a bottleneck.
I've dealt with those small form factor PCs at work. As I recall, the strongest low profile graphics card you can get is a GTX 750 Ti. Gigabyte offers one in the GV-N75TOC-2GL (link goes to Amazon search). MSI also has their N750ti-2GD5TLP (link goes to Amazon product listing). There's also this Zotac ZT-70702-10M model (Amazon product listing).
There are other solutions like certain low profile AMD R7 250 cards, but I'd be wary about the power consumption. The GTX 750 Ti is almost guaranteed to work with your power supply, I'd say. This PCPer article proves that the power consumption is low enough for your PC's proprietary power supply to handle the GTX 750 Ti. Each PC ended up drawing well under 200 watts total.
I could be wrong, but I do not think that is possible. You will likely need some kind of active or powered signal converter to make VGA work from a displayport connection, as DP doesn't exactly output an analog signal (which is what VGA carries). Using a DVI cable should work, though.
NegativeCero
Banned
I'm extremely new to doing research on PC's (it'll be my first build). I would need to save up some money for a few weeks to have the budget I'd like to use for it. So I want to know is is it worth going for it as soon as I can or is there a certain time when new stuff is out probably next year? And if so, would it be comparably priced. Basically is it better to wait or jump in?
Edit: Oh, my goal is to be able to play games at pretty high settings (excited for Fallout 4 and finally getting Witcher 3) but I would also use it to do multimedia work (editing video and photos). So looking at the quick chart in the OP, looks like I would fall into the Enthusiast category.
Edit: Oh, my goal is to be able to play games at pretty high settings (excited for Fallout 4 and finally getting Witcher 3) but I would also use it to do multimedia work (editing video and photos). So looking at the quick chart in the OP, looks like I would fall into the Enthusiast category.
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