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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Fucking PCpartpicker trolled me. It showed the 6700k as in stock on amazon for $350. I clicked on link and it was reseller for $500. Fuck the resellers by the way. Burn in hell!

Edit: Heads up. 850 Pro 1TB is $70 off on NewEgg with promo code 0915TXTBK32. That makes it $40 less than Amazon.
 

Mudron

Member
I'm an ancient console-only dork looking to invest in my first gaming PC ever in time for Fallout 4 in November.

This is a pretty broad as hell question to ask, but what would folks suggest I grab if I wanted something pre-built that I could just hook up to my TV and use as a makeshift console?

Ideally, the Steam machines would've been the answer to my prayers here, but everyone seems to agree that they're all way overpriced.

Any help?
 

RGM79

Member
I know OP recommend i5 4440, but the split to 4590 just 20 buck

worth it?

It's a minor performance difference, on the order of ~5% due to the i5 4590's slightly higher possible clock speed. What country are you in and how much do they cost?

I'm an ancient console-only dork looking to invest in my first gaming PC ever in time for Fallout 4 in November.

This is a pretty broad as hell question to ask, but what would folks suggest I grab if I wanted something pre-built that I could just hook up to my TV and use as a makeshift console?

Ideally, the Steam machines would've been the answer to my prayers here, but everyone seems to agree that they're all way overpriced.

Any help?

There aren't any prebuilt PC retailers or brands that I know of that are always "well priced", it varies. Best thing you can do is maybe keep an eye out for bargains, like from websites like slickdeals.
 

Walpurgis

Banned
Here's two new and up to date parts list suggestions, one for the cheaper Haswell and Z97 stuff and one for the newer Skylake parts.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($298.50 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($59.95 @ NCIX)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card ($419.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $976.41
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-09 21:59 EDT-0400

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.95 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4S ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($134.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($82.13 @ DirectCanada)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB Superclocked Video Card ($288.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $978.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-09 22:05 EDT-0400

The Skylake/Z170 build is newer and will be more compatible with future upgrades, but is overall a bit weaker for gaming than the Haswell/Z97 build which is able to fit a stronger graphics card into the same budget.

I'm sorry for wasting your time but there have been some unexpected developments in my house. My dad just pulled out of buying the PC - no coherent reason given. Our house is without a PC so my mother is scrambling to get one for us. She wants to get one from Costco but I had a look and their graphics cards look pathetic on benchmark sites. She was this close to going there to buy a PC today. I was at a loss until I discovered that NCIX and Memory Express both offer a PC building service (and it's only $50!). Could you build me one last PC on NCIX or Memory Express? I believe NCIX has 1 year warranty which is a huge boon. I'm unsure on Memory Express.

I will repost my questionnaire with some edits.
Walpurgis said:
[Basic Desktop Questions]
Your Current Specs: Not worth talking about. It's scam HP Pavilion from 2008. I remember running two instances of Crysis at max graphics once with a good frame rate. Now, it can hardly run Guild Wars 2 at the lowest settings more than 25 FPS.
Budget: ~$900 (taxes and shipping included)
Main Use: Heavy Gaming - 5. General Usage - 2.
Monitor Resolution: I still have the 1920x1200 monitor from 2008 in good condition. I don't know if it's outdated but I think it still looks good.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: The Witcher 3 and Fallout 4. Early access titles like DayZ, Rust, H1Z1, The Forest and ARK. ARMA 3. I would like 60 FPS. I have nothing worth reusing except the monitor. My case is just filthy.
When will you build?: This week.
Will you be overclocking?: No.
 

Credo

Member
Is it worth getting the 1 TB Samsung Pro SSD over the EVO SSD if you only have to pay $30 more? That $70 promo brings the Pro down to $400, and the EVO is sitting at $370.

Also, thanks, CreepingFear, for the post about the promo code!
 

RGM79

Member
I'm sorry for wasting your time but there have been some unexpected developments in my house. My dad just pulled out of buying the PC - no coherent reason given. Our house is without a PC so my mother is scrambling to get one for us. She wants to get one from Costco but I had a look and their graphics cards look pathetic on benchmark sites. She was this close to going there to buy a PC today. I was at a loss until I discovered that NCIX and Memory Express both offer a PC building service (and it's only $50!). Could you build me one last PC on NCIX or Memory Express? I believe NCIX has 1 year warranty which is a huge boon. I'm unsure on Memory Express.

I will repost my questionnaire with some edits.

I don't think I asked you before, but if you don't mind telling me, what city are you in? If you're in Vancouver, I could build your PC for you on the weekend, or even sell you some parts I have lying around to help your lower budget.

Otherwise for a build consisting entirely of new parts.. take a look at this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: MSI H81M-E34 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($69.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($54.98 @ NCIX)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series:DT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB Superclocked Video Card ($274.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Corsair 100R ATX Mid Tower Case ($52.98 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($42.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $795.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-16 02:49 EDT-0400

Edit: changed the build so all parts come from NCIX. If you look at each part's individual price (or set the filter to "all retailers") you can see the lowest price for each part from other retailers, get NCIX to pricematch them to save a couple more dollars.

Compared to the other builds it is lesser performing, but should come in at just about $950 or so after assembly and taxes. Unfortunately it won't be possible to get you an equally performing Skylake build unless you don't mind sacrificing some part of the build due to Skylake's higher cost.

As I said earlier , I have some spare parts I could sell you if you don't mind. I have DDR3 RAM, some hard drives, and an R9 270X 4GB I'm not using.

Indonesia, and the price is like 2500k for 4400 and 2800k for 4590 (at my currency)

It can make a bit of a difference but not by a lot. It's up to you if you want to. If you can put the 300k difference towards a better graphics card or something, I think that would make a stronger difference than opting for the i5 4590.

Is it worth getting the 1 TB Samsung Pro SSD over the EVO SSD if you only have to pay $30 more? That $70 promo brings the Pro down to $400, and the EVO is sitting at $370.

Also, thanks, CreepingFear, for the post about the promo code!

It can't be just a $30 difference. According to PCPartPicker at their lowest available prices, the 850 Evo 1TB is $343 while the 850 Pro 1TB is $400. If you don't mind going for the Crucial BX100 1TB, it's only $320 and offers the best ratio of performance to cost.

Performance-wise the Pro doesn't offer too much over the Evo
, I don't think it's enough to justify the $57 difference.
 
I need some help with fitting my new CPU cooler into my case. I've got...

- Gigabyte Z97mx Gaming 5 motherboard
- Corsair Obsidian 350D case
- Corsair H105 Liquid Cooler

All of these things should be compatible but the fans on the radiator are pushing up against this thing:
0wzZWmr.jpg


I am not 100% sure what this thing is (heatsink?) but it is stopping the radiator and fans from fitting by only 3-4mm or so. What can I do to make this fit?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I need some help with fitting my new CPU cooler into my case. I've got...

- Gigabyte Z97mx Gaming 5 motherboard
- Corsair Obsidian 350D case
- Corsair H105 Liquid Cooler

All of these things should be compatible but the fans on the radiator are pushing up against this thing:
0wzZWmr.jpg


I am not 100% sure what this thing is (heatsink?) but it is stopping the radiator and fans from fitting by only 3-4mm or so. What can I do to make this fit?
Sand it off or buy smaller fans. I had trouble getting my fans for my AIO in for the same reason, but just shoved it in.
 

JambiBum

Member
I've never upgraded my mobo before (never had a reason to until I recently bought a new cpu that doesn't fit my old one) and am wondering if there's anything I really need to worry about when I install it. I'm mostly worried about my windows 10 install and if I'll need to reinstall it when I boot up with the new hardware for the first time.
 

kennah

Member
I've never upgraded my mobo before (never had a reason to until I recently bought a new cpu that doesn't fit my old one) and am wondering if there's anything I really need to worry about when I install it. I'm mostly worried about my windows 10 install and if I'll need to reinstall it when I boot up with the new hardware for the first time.
You might have to install. You might not. It's a crap shoot when you change a motherboard
 
Guys inside my Asus z170-a I found a device for installing the CPU, since is my first time doing something like this is better if I use it or not?
 

knitoe

Member
I've never upgraded my mobo before (never had a reason to until I recently bought a new cpu that doesn't fit my old one) and am wondering if there's anything I really need to worry about when I install it. I'm mostly worried about my windows 10 install and if I'll need to reinstall it when I boot up with the new hardware for the first time.
Since Win 7 then 8, I have had success with installing a new MBs without needing to reinstall Windows. I would assume Win 10 would be even better. At worst, you get BSOD and will need to reinstall Windows.
Guys inside my Asus z170-a I found a device for installing the CPU, since is my first time doing something like this is better if I use it or not?
Can you take a pic? Installing the cpu is just lifting the lever, lift the metal cover, insert the cpu in the right orientation, lower the cover and push the lever back in it's place. There shouldn't be any tool needed.
 
So after a little while with the Antec Kuhler 650 I can definitely say it isn't worth it. I reseated it three time and my temps are consistently higher than when I had my 121 EVO. That wouldn't really bother me except that as far as I can tell there's no fan control so it jumps to full speed as soon as in nears 60c. This casts a bright red light, jet turbine fan noise, and loud as hell full speed pump. In short, it's loud as hell and annoying. So, to anyone considering getting one, I'd suggest against it.



Also, not sure if this is allowed, but this thread/news story is something I think everyone in here might be interested in reading. Kid was arrested for having a homemade clock. (PCB, wires, and LED = bomb apparently)

Not trying to derail this thread, so please discuss the topic in the thread linked if you feel the need to.

If it's not allowed, please let me know and I'll edit.
 
You can't just move the cooler to the front of the case?

I would have to move the drive bays and even then I'm not sure the radiator would fit. Either way, the bit sanded down easily and cleanly and everything is up and running. I'm very pleased with the temps and amount of noise it makes, and the drastically reduced size compared to my old cooler (Noctua NH-D14) is nice as well.
 

Haribi

Why isn't there a Star Wars RPG? And wouldn't James Bond make for a pretty good FPS?
I have this PSU and want to buy this Motherboard.

But is it even compatible with the MB? As far as I can tell it says that the PSU has one 1x 4-Pin connector but the MB needs 1x 8 Pin. Does it work or do I need a new PSU?
 

Credo

Member
It can't be just a $30 difference. According to PCPartPicker at their lowest available prices, the 850 Evo 1TB is $343 while the 850 Pro 1TB is $400. If you don't mind going for the Crucial BX100 1TB, it's only $320 and offers the best ratio of performance to cost.

Performance-wise the Pro doesn't offer too much over the Evo
, I don't think it's enough to justify the $57 difference.

Ha, you're right! I was just comparing it to Newegg's listing for the 850 EVO, which is $370. It pays to PartPick.
 

DPB

Member
I have this PSU and want to buy this Motherboard.

But is it even compatible with the MB? As far as I can tell it says that the PSU has one 1x 4-Pin connector but the MB needs 1x 8 Pin. Does it work or do I need a new PSU?

They're compatible with each other, you can just plug in the 4 pin connector into the 8 pin slot. The 8 pin option is only there to provide extra power for overclocking.
 

Knurek

Member
Anyone can help me? Google failed to deliver any relevant answers.

I have a Dell U2414H monitor connected to Gigabyte GTX970 with a HDMI cable with Win7 x64 system.
I have no problems with Desktop and windowed games (including borderless fullscreen), but for games that use standard fullscreen the monitor fails to pick up resolution change from time to time. Not always, mind you, just sporadically. I get the audio, game is running fine, just black screen.

Turning the monitor off and on again fixes the issue, but due to crappy 'butons' my Dell has this is a major PITA to do. Does anyone know if there is some option in NVIDIA control panel or anywhere else that would fix this? I looked through every option the monitor's OSD menu has, didn't find anything that could cause this. Is it worth trying to switch to a DisplayPort cable?

Or is that just something one has to learn to live with when it comes to new monitors?
 

Walpurgis

Banned
I don't think I asked you before, but if you don't mind telling me, what city are you in? If you're in Vancouver, I could build your PC for you on the weekend, or even sell you some parts I have lying around to help your lower budget.

Otherwise for a build consisting entirely of new parts.. take a look at this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: MSI H81M-E34 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($69.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($54.98 @ NCIX)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series:DT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB Superclocked Video Card ($274.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Corsair 100R ATX Mid Tower Case ($52.98 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($42.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $795.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-16 02:49 EDT-0400

Edit: changed the build so all parts come from NCIX. If you look at each part's individual price (or set the filter to "all retailers") you can see the lowest price for each part from other retailers, get NCIX to pricematch them to save a couple more dollars.

Compared to the other builds it is lesser performing, but should come in at just about $950 or so after assembly and taxes. Unfortunately it won't be possible to get you an equally performing Skylake build unless you don't mind sacrificing some part of the build due to Skylake's higher cost.

As I said earlier , I have some spare parts I could sell you if you don't mind. I have DDR3 RAM, some hard drives, and an R9 270X 4GB I'm not using.
I just ordered it. Now this saga is finally over! I live in Winnipeg so I didn't have to pay PST (thanks for that offer, btw). With free shipping, $13 shipping insurance and $50 assembly, it came down to $933. Thank you so much!
 

kennah

Member
I just ordered it. Now this saga is finally over! I live in Winnipeg so I didn't have to pay PST (thanks for that offer, btw). With free shipping, $13 shipping insurance and $50 assembly, it came down to $933. Thank you so much!
If you need help let me know. I'm local to you.
 

commissar

Member
Hey PCGAF,

I built my machine a couple of weeks ago but there's been a noticeable high pitched whine at the edge of hearing when the PC is plugged in (both off and on). Seems like a bung capacitor (?) so I did these tests:

PSU plugged in at wall, not plugged into anything else. No whine.

PSU-> Mobo + CPU. Whine.

I can only assume the motherboard is at fault, but I'm concerned it may still be the PSU as the test I had it wasn't actually powering anything. Any thoughts on this test? It's the motherboard right?

FWIW when plugged in but off, my motherboard leaves a few LEDs on (which is annoying tbh).
For reference: PSU: Silverstone SX600G, Mobo: Asus Maximus VII Impact

Thanks for any help :D!
 

RGM79

Member
Anyone have any experience with this case?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I44EUAK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I am thinking of upgrading to it. My current case has fans that keep dying and are hard to replace / wierd sizes I can only order from thermaltake. Will be air cooled with a stock CPU fan. Pre sandy bridge i7

Actually I just realized this has no space for optical drives at all. :/ crap

What kind of case are you looking for and what's your budget and system specs?

I just ordered it. Now this saga is finally over! I live in Winnipeg so I didn't have to pay PST (thanks for that offer, btw). With free shipping, $13 shipping insurance and $50 assembly, it came down to $933. Thank you so much!

No problem. It'll be much better and more balanced for gaming than any PC you can find for the same price at Costco, I'm sure.

Hey PCGAF,

I built my machine a couple of weeks ago but there's been a noticeable high pitched whine at the edge of hearing when the PC is plugged in (both off and on). Seems like a bung capacitor (?) so I did these tests:

PSU plugged in at wall, not plugged into anything else. No whine.

PSU-> Mobo + CPU. Whine.

I can only assume the motherboard is at fault, but I'm concerned it may still be the PSU as the test I had it wasn't actually powering anything. Any thoughts on this test? It's the motherboard right?

FWIW when plugged in but off, my motherboard leaves a few LEDs on (which is annoying tbh).
For reference: PSU: Silverstone SX600G, Mobo: Asus Maximus VII Impact

Thanks for any help :D!

The PSU plugged into the wall and nothing else will not actually be running. Here, do the paper clip test to turn on just the PSU by itself to see if it makes any noise. Keep in mind that it might also be that your power supply only makes the whining noise when under a certain level of stress or load.
 

commissar

Member
The PSU plugged into the wall and nothing else will not actually be running. Here, do the paper clip test to turn on just the PSU by itself to see if it makes any noise. Keep in mind that it might also be that your power supply only makes the whining noise when under a certain level of stress or load.
That's really useful thanks!
 
I saw that I shouldn't use too much thermal paste because if it spreads too far, it'll spread even more when it heats up and could spill.

I'll probably just do the rice grain/pea method.

And just got my i7-6700k. Gonna start building that shits.
 

RGM79

Member
I saw that I shouldn't use too much thermal paste because if it spreads too far, it'll spread even more when it heats up and could spill.

I'll probably just do the rice grain/pea method.

And just got my i7-6700k. Gonna start building that shits.

Also, too much thermal paste will actually prevent optimal heat transfer. It's not so much that it conducts heat away, but that it's meant to fill in tiny gaps when you have a flat metal surface in contact with another flat metal surface.

Good luck with your build.
 
What kind of case are you looking for and what's your budget and system specs?



No problem. It'll be much better and more balanced for gaming than any PC you can find for the same price at Costco, I'm sure.



The PSU plugged into the wall and nothing else will not actually be running. Here, do the paper clip test to turn on just the PSU by itself to see if it makes any noise. Keep in mind that it might also be that your power supply only makes the whining noise when under a certain level of stress or load.

I'm planning to transplant my current pc to a new case because my current case is a hassle and all the fans are dying more often than I want to replace them at 20-30$ a fan.

Currently use a Thermaltake v9 black, (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133074) but the fan sizes are weird and difficult to replace (screws in weird places etc).

Budget is 150-200 tops. I'm actually really liking the look and cooling of the NXTZ one I linked but am not thrilled at the prospect of no optical drive space. I can always get an external though. I shouldn't have any issues booting from an external dvd-rw if necessary right? I like to have the option at least for emergencies and ultimate boot cd.
 
Stupid question about RAM - did a bit of googling but want some clarification:

In a new build I'm making - the motherboard has a max of 1600 mhz for the RAM memory clock rate. However, I have some old RAM - GSKILL Sniper which is default clocked? to 1866mhz.

Does the motherboard just use the ram at 1600mhz (downclocks) without issue? Or will it be a problem and I have to buy 1600mhz RAM?

GSKILL Sniper RAM link:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...0&cm_re=g_skill_sniper-_-20-231-460-_-Product
 

RGM79

Member
I'm planning to transplant my current pc to a new case because my current case is a hassle and all the fans are dying more often than I want to replace them at 20-30$ a fan.

Currently use a Thermaltake v9 black, but the fan sizes are weird and difficult to replace (screws in weird places etc).

Budget is 150-200 tops. I'm actually really liking the look and cooling of the NXTZ one I linked but am not thrilled at the prospect of no optical drive space. I can always get an external though. I shouldn't have any issues booting from an external dvd-rw if necessary right? I like to have the option at least for emergencies and ultimate boot cd.

The H440 is a nice case. If you want optical drive bays, look at NZXT's Phantom line, they have those included. Have you considered using a USB drive for booting Windows and ultimate boot CD?

Stupid question about RAM - did a bit of googling but want some clarification:

In a new build I'm making - the motherboard has a max of 1600 mhz for the RAM memory clock rate. However, I have some old RAM - GSKILL Sniper which is default clocked? to 1866mhz.

Does the motherboard just use the ram at 1600mhz (downclocks) without issue? Or will it be a problem and I have to buy 1600mhz RAM?

GSKILL Sniper RAM link:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...0&cm_re=g_skill_sniper-_-20-231-460-_-Product

Your RAM will automatically run at the lower compatible speed of 1600MHz. It's all automatic and compatible.

What motherboard and CPU are you using in this build? Technically only 1333/1600MHz may be officially supported, but it may be able to run at 1866MHz anyway given XMP support.
 
The H440 is a nice case. If you want optical drive bays, look at NZXT's Phantom line, they have those included. Have you considered using a USB drive for booting Windows and ultimate boot CD?



Your RAM will automatically run at the lower compatible speed of 1600MHz. It's all automatic and compatible.

What motherboard and CPU are you using in this build? Technically only 1333/1600MHz may be officially supported, but it may be able to run at 1866MHz anyway given XMP support.

I have, but I have not yet completed the process of making a UBCD flash drive.
Do you have any experience booting from an external optical drive? I am going to need some optical input anyway so I'll have to get one, question is just if it works hassle free or not.

The phantom line doesn't really fit with my aesthetic sensibilities. I definitely want something flat on top for storage reasons (place to put my charging phone etc).
 

RGM79

Member
I have, but I have not yet completed the process of making a UBCD flash drive.
Do you have any experience booting from an external optical drive? I am going to need some optical input anyway so I'll have to get one, question is just if it works hassle free or not.

The phantom line doesn't really fit with my aesthetic sensibilities. I definitely want something flat on top for storage reasons (place to put my charging phone etc).
Unfortunately, no. I've heard from friends that booting from an external disc drive is kind of hit and miss. If you do go with an external disc drive, look for a popular model with reviews so you can see if anyone has mentioned any problems with trying to boot.

If you're looking for something with sorta similar aesthetics.. how about the Fractal Define R4 or R5? Subdued design with flat tops and optical drive bays, and come in a few different finishes with the option of a window.
 
Unfortunately, no. I've heard from friends that booting from an external disc drive is kind of hit and miss. If you do go with an external disc drive, look for a popular model with reviews so you can see if anyone has mentioned any problems with trying to boot.

If you're looking for something with sorta similar aesthetics.. how about the Fractal Define R4 or R5? Subdued design with flat tops and optical drive bays, and come in a few different finishes with the option of a window.

Oh the R5 is pretty snazzy.
 
I think everything is successful.

I'm on the bios screen and it looks good. Making a Windows 8 image to install via USB.

How dangerous got hit by eletric blackout on split second you turning on your computer?
Fml in this super shitty country

I don't think it's that bad since PCs are pretty much built with that in mind.
What would be bad is a electric surge if you didn't have a surge protector.
 

knitoe

Member
How dangerous got hit by eletric blackout on split second you turning on your computer?
Fml in this super shitty country

Lost of power shouldn't be an issue. But, to proctect your PC, I would highly recommend everyone get a sinewave backup battery, especially if you live in a place that power fluctuates often. Simple surge protectors aren't enough.
 
Anyone know what might be wrong?

I made a Windows 8.1 boot USB drive with the Windows Media Creeation Tool.
In the BIOS settings, I made USB the first priority boot (even tried making it the only boot).

The PC doesn't seem to detect the USB drive.

Anyone know what might be the problem?
 
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