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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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An1malhouse365

Neo Member
Are you ordering all of your parts from Amazon? I could rework the parts list for best cost from there.

Yeah I do most of my shopping through Amazon due to prime and my buying/selling/trading lets me access kindle gift cards fairly easily. An amazon list would be great! But if the price difference in substantial enough then I'd be willing to shop elsewhere.
 
Sooo I have a 970 arriving tomorrow (upgrading from my 750 Ti, so excited!)

Is there anything I need to do apart from swapping them out? Should I swap in the 970, then uninstall Nvidia drivers and reinstall? :)
 
Sooo I have a 970 arriving tomorrow (upgrading from my 750 Ti, so excited!)

Is there anything I need to do apart from swapping them out? Should I swap in the 970, then uninstall Nvidia drivers and reinstall? :)
Call me paranoid, but I'd go with:

1. Uninstall NVIDIA drivers
2. Run Display Driver Uninstaller
3. Turn off PC
4. Switch GPUs
5. Install new drivers fresh.

That's how I always do it, be it AMD<->NVIDIA or within AMD/NVIDIA GPUs.
 

Kezen

Banned
Call me paranoid, but I'd go with:

1. Uninstall NVIDIA drivers
2. Run Display Driver Uninstaller
3. Turn off PC
4. Switch GPUs
5. Install new drivers fresh.

That's how I always do it, be it AMD<->NVIDIA or within AMD/NVIDIA GPUs.

That's the safest way indeed. Always uninstall your drivers prior to swapping GPUs.
 
Anyone have experience with streaming games from your PC to TV with Nvidia Shield? I'd like to pick up something to play my PC games on my TV. I know Steam Link is coming out soon for $50 as well, so that's another potential option.

I've got a 980 Ti and would be streaming over ethernet.
 

j-wood

Member
Need some PC help:

I had to update my bios today because it fixed a bug in windows 10 where task manager showed my CPU always at 100%.

Bios update went fine, but it reset my bios settings, including the SATA controller type. I did have it on RAID, but now windows only boots if the controller type is set to AHCI, which makes my RAID inaccessible. If i set the controller type to RAID, windows won't boot with "inaccessible boot device". The OS is actually on an SSD that's not in the RAID. I just have steam and all my games installed on the RAID.

I had this issue in windows 7 when i first setup my RAID. I found this article where I had to change a couple of keys in the registry and that fixed it. But these keys are in these locations in windows 10 and I couldn't find them doing a "Find".

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/922976

Halp?
 

fuzzyset

Member
Anyone have experience with streaming games from your PC to TV with Nvidia Shield? I'd like to pick up something to play my PC games on my TV. I know Steam Link is coming out soon for $50 as well, so that's another potential option.

I've got a 980 Ti and would be streaming over ethernet.

If you're close enough to wire via ethernet, could you get a long HDMI cable and run it to the TV?

I've used Steam streaming to a Macbook and it seemed fine (toyed around in Borderlands and MGS). Just make sure to put your TV into "game mode" to reduce the input lag if it doesn't automatically. This was PC ---> wired ---> router ---> wireless ---> Macbook.
 
If you're close enough to wire via ethernet, could you get a long HDMI cable and run it to the TV?

I've used Steam streaming to a Macbook and it seemed fine (toyed around in Borderlands and MGS). Just make sure to put your TV into "game mode" to reduce the input lag if it doesn't automatically. This was PC ---> wired ---> router ---> wireless ---> Macbook.

I'm not close enough. The whole house is wired with cat 5e. I have a switch behind my TV (on the first floor) that runs into the wall, that runs into the router in the basement which would connect back up to my PC (on the second floor).
 

kennah

Member
Listed my 5930k for sale. Likely putting my case and watercooling stuff up too.

Can only sit on parts for so many years without using them :p

No time for gaming with three kids and if I do end up getting a good job (unemployed right now) can just buy stuff I'll actually use.

Will change out my i3 for a 3770 if I can find one and I think that'd do me for a few more years.
 

RGM79

Member
Well my motherboard died... So what are some good 1155 motherboards?

What are your system specs?

Yeah I do most of my shopping through Amazon due to prime and my buying/selling/trading lets me access kindle gift cards fairly easily. An amazon list would be great! But if the price difference in substantial enough then I'd be willing to shop elsewhere.

Here's how it looks from Amazon.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-GAMING 3 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($50.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Silverstone ML04B HTPC Case ($85.01 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 400W ATX Power Supply ($28.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $329.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-22 12:59 EDT-0400

The price is higher, but that's mainly due to the case costing $85 from Amazon. It's not that big a difference over the other build when taking the cost of the case into account.
 
Sorry, forgot to ask a few more questions. How much do you intend to spend on a replacement?

Will you be doing any overclocking? If you are you should avoid ASRock Z77 models, they don't report voltage properly.

Probably at most £150 for the right board. I would probably overclock yes. I had a Gigabyte Z68XP UD4 before, I only worry that maybe I should stick to a similar chipset so there is a smaller chance I have to reinstall windows.

I've been looking at this one for £150, seems to be the best I can find. I thought 1155 boards would be a bit more common still...
 

RGM79

Member
Probably at most £150 for the right board. I would probably overclock yes. I had a Gigabyte Z68XP UD4 before, I only worry that maybe I should stick to a similar chipset so there is a smaller chance I have to reinstall windows.

I've been looking at this one for £150, seems to be the best I can find. I thought 1155 boards would be a bit more common still...

Yeah, socket 1155 is already two generations old and hasn't been in production for a long time, what you're seeing is what stock left over that retailers still have on hand. Here are all your available choices if you want to buy brand new. Otherwise, consider buying a used motherboard if you only need your current PC to last a bit longer, or maybe even think of selling your 2700K and buying a new CPU and motherboard.

I don't see any Gigabyte Z68 motherboards listed, unfortunately. You are most likely going to have to do a reinstallation of Windows.
 
Yeah, socket 1155 is already two generations old and hasn't been in production for a long time, what you're seeing is what stock left over that retailers still have on hand. Here are all your available choices if you want to buy brand new. Otherwise, consider buying a used motherboard if you only need your current PC to last a bit longer, or maybe even think of selling your 2700K and buying a new CPU and motherboard.

I don't see any Gigabyte Z68 motherboards listed, unfortunately. You are most likely going to have to do a reinstallation of Windows.

I forgot to add my link in my other post. I found a MSI Z77A-GD65 GAMING Z77 brand new for £150 so I think ill scoop that up, certainly slim pickings.
 

LilJoka

Member
Probably at most £150 for the right board. I would probably overclock yes. I had a Gigabyte Z68XP UD4 before, I only worry that maybe I should stick to a similar chipset so there is a smaller chance I have to reinstall windows.

I've been looking at this one for £150, seems to be the best I can find. I thought 1155 boards would be a bit more common still...

I used the same install of win 7 for H61, Z68, Z77, X58. Find a Z77 board it should be easier.
 

RGM79

Member
EVGA P2 650W 80+ PLATINUM Certified Modular Power Supply on sale for $70 after promo code and $20 MIR.

Good deal?

EVGA make good PSUs, or they chose the right design.

More knowledgeable people than me on the subject will probably shime in but I'd say this is a very good deal.

Good deal if you're looking for quality and reliability. The PSU is made by Super Flower which has a rock solid record and reputation for good power supplies, and it's hard to beat a 10 year warranty. It's still fairly new so no professional reviews yet apparently, but I'd trust them to not screw it up.

I forgot to add my link in my other post. I found a MSI Z77A-GD65 GAMING Z77 brand new for £150 so I think ill scoop that up, certainly slim pickings.

Reviews seem good.
 

sfried

Member
While I did say you'd need a better CPU to do what you want to do, I still wouldn't recommend a better CPU in your situation.

According to your motherboard's supported CPU list, it doesn't list the FX-8350. It may still work anyway, but the issue is that the motherboard is cleared for use with processors that produce 95 watts of thermal design power while the FX-8350 produces a 125 watt TDP. Read here for more information, but basically speaking, heat/airflow/cooling will be a issue for certain AMD motherboards and you should take care with that.

In your specific case I don't think I'd recommend the FX-8350. To put it simply, too hot for your motherboard especially if you value reliability. I don't know how long you intend to keep your current system for, but you might be better served by saving up and replacing both CPU and motherboard rather than just getting a stopgap CPU for now. AMD's AM3+ platform is already pretty much dead and any future upgrades you want to do will require replacing the motherboard and processor anyway.

It's somewhat hard to recommend buying an FX-6XXX or FX-8XXX processor because at this point, Intel has outstripped AMD in terms of performance. Their i3 processors (dual core with hyperthreading) can even beat AMD FX-6XXX or FX-8XXX processors in some games. There are still a few games that can take advantage of the 6 or 8 cores of the higher end AMD FX processors and still compete favorably with Intel processors, but it's not a good enough reason to recommend sticking with or buying into AMD FX at this point or in the future.

If you're still interested in keeping the motherboard and upgrading to a better AMD FX processor, there are some 95 watt processors you can upgrade to that are supported: The FX-6300 for $97 or the FX-8320E for $125. If you need any more performance than that, then you're out of luck, you're going to have to go with a new processor and motherboard.

So yeah, in the end I still recommend either saving up for a new PC or going with that Sapphire R9 380 graphics card.
It's odd though: My current processor, the FX-4350, isn't listed there, and is considered 125w TDP, so wouldn't the FX-8350 be within the same range?
 

RGM79

Member
It's odd though: My current processor, the FX-4350, isn't listed there, and is considered 125w TDP, so wouldn't the FX-8350 be within the same range?

I did say it might work anyway, just that the FX-8350 isn't recommended.

While the FX-4350 is officially rated at 125W TDP and the FX-4300 is officially rated at 95W TDP, it only draws about 5~10 watts more in wattage than the FX-4300 (scroll down to power consumption chart). There is definitely not an extra 30 watts of heat there.

On the same chart you can see the FX-8350, it draws 60~70 watts more than the FX-4300/4350 and should produce quite a lot more heat.

TDP rating is usually not exact, a lot of times you'll see a range of processors with different cores or speeds be rated in the same TDP. I mean obviously the FX-4350 in your motherboard works fine, but it's only four cores. The FX8350 has eight cores and probably wouldn't produce the exact same amount of heat when doing the same thing.

TDP rating is more of a guideline for consumers to see how hot a processor might run at, it's never an exact measurement. Not every processor marked as 95W TDP produces exactly 95 watts of heat. It's hopefully close to that, though..
 

Salsa

Member
checked im on the right PCIe slot

changed the BIOS setting to run a 4x and disable the other slot

still getting this on GPU-Z

OBWb2I6.png


and yeah even during stress test

any ideas? :/
 
checked im on the right PCIe slot

changed the BIOS setting to run a 4x and disable the other slot

still getting this on GPU-Z

OBWb2I6.png


and yeah even during stress test

any ideas? :/

Click on the question mark beside where you underlined, start the test, and see if it stays the same.
 

Salsa

Member
What mobo?

P8P67 LE

cant think of anything else.. I have a mild OC on the card, and my CPU OCd and C-states disabled (the voltage changes were causing an annoying coil whine)

other than that I dont think I have anything that could be affecting this.. like some power saving on the card or something
 
P8P67 LE

cant think of anything else.. I have a mild OC on the card, and my CPU OCd and C-states disabled (the voltage changes were causing an annoying coil whine)

other than that I dont think I have anything that could be affecting this.. like some power saving on the card or something

You have the card in the blue PCIE slot? Do you have anything in the other PCI slots (x1 or x16)? What mobo BIOS do you have?
 

Salsa

Member
You have the card in the blue PCIE slot? Do you have anything in the other PCI slots (x1 or x16)? What mobo BIOS do you have?

nothing on the other PCIe slots. card on the top blue slot. i'll take a pic of the BIOS ver now. I did update it once and I very much doubt there was another update or what I updated didnt support it..
 

knitoe

Member
P8P67 LE

cant think of anything else.. I have a mild OC on the card, and my CPU OCd and C-states disabled (the voltage changes were causing an annoying coil whine)

other than that I dont think I have anything that could be affecting this.. like some power saving on the card or something

The video card is in the top slot x16_1, right below the cpu? Accordingly to the manual, the 4x / 2x setting a only applies to the x16_2 slot so that shouldnt do anything unless you doing 2 cards.
 

Salsa

Member
The video card is in the top slot x16_1, right below the cpu? Accordingly to the manual, the 4x / 2x setting a only applies to the x16_2 slot so that shouldnt do anything unless you doing 2 cards.

yeah, I figured since it mentions "(black)" and im on a blue slot

:/

here's some BIOS pics:

wmcSxeO.jpg


LuXtJug.jpg


FB9TnAG.jpg
 
So um need some GSync help.

Got my ROG Swift in today, hooked up DisplayPort, and the monitor itself works fine. But when I go into the NVidia control panel to turn GSync on, it won't let me past Step 1, and GSync isn't an option in the VSync options under mANAGE 3D Settings. Anyone know what I'm supposed to do?
 
Before I go ahead and pick up an R9 390, does anybody that have it here have any views on the card? Also especially views from people that jumped from Nvidia to AMD. I have had cards from AMD before and wasn't impressed with the whole driver malarkey but it seems from a look at my brothers one they have stepped up their game a bit.

Which model are you looking at? I bought the MSI 390 on Saturday and have been using it since then. I have never owned an AMD GPU, just tested a few in the past. So far the card runs pretty nice, around 61-62 degrees on load. I have done some slight OC with the card, but don't want to push it since I am on a Silverstone 550W Gold rated PSU. The card is not loud either which I wasn't expecting since I have tested some 7970, 7950, 270, and 280's in the past.

The MSI 390 is great too, they cover the VRM's and the heat sink is really well built. It also includes a back plate at $329.
 
friend asked me to help him pick out parts for a new build for $1500 or less. What do you guys think?

cmHYOom.png



Is it worth switching over to a 390?

He realistically wants the best bang for the buck performance at 1920x1080 while being able to stream on a single pc setup
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Looks like for $200 you could drop in a GTX 960 or R9 380 in there and it should be a decent upgrade. The existing power supply should handle it and it'll be compatible with everything. You should be able to equal a PS4 if nothing else. For specific part recommendations, this Sapphire R9 380 ($199 after $15 rebate) or Gigabyte GTX 960 ($203 after $20 rebate) should suit your purposes just fine.

You've been incredibly helpful, thank you!

So after considering your post and doing some further research on my own, I've come to the conclusion that the most inexpensive upgrade to my current PC would be to get the GTX 960. I currently rock an i3-2100 and Corsair CX430W PSU, and it's a surprisingly common combo with the GTX 960. Seems people can run nearly every game out there today at 1080p with max settings.

Opting for the R9 280 or 380 means I would need to buy a new PSU, and I just can't spend that money right now.

Again, here are my parts:

Does the GTX 960 fit in a Rosewill Challenger case? Is it compatible with my motherboard? And is this the best RAM around $45 that I can get for my motherboard? And is it compatible with my current RAM? And finally, should I opt for the EVGA 960s since they come with MGSV?

Thanks everyone!
 
friend asked me to help him pick out parts for a new build for $1500 or less. What do you guys think?

cmHYOom.png



Is it worth switching over to a 390?

He realistically wants the best bang for the buck performance at 1920x1080 while being able to stream on a single pc setup

A i5 6600K should be enough for gaming, if he wants to take money somewhere and invest it instead on a better GPU than the 970.
 
yeah, I figured since it mentions "(black)" and im on a blue slot

:/

here's some BIOS pics:

wmcSxeO.jpg


LuXtJug.jpg


FB9TnAG.jpg

That BIOS line says it changes the bandwidth for the 16_2 slot, implying your card is in the 16_2 slot. Alternatively it could be to force a certain setting, try changing that to Auto since there's no reason for you to set it to something specific. If that doesn't work try using the "wrong" slots.
 
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