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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Mystic654

Member
Bought a new Case for my x99 Build: Case-Labs Merlin SM8. I was tired of fighting with my old Case-Labs case S8S(Had hard time fitting everything in).

4JA0Tr8.jpg


Now question is should I keep my MSI Godlike Motherboard or Go with Asus Rampage V 10 Edition(Sell my MSI Board).
 
Got one more small RAM related question, my new RAM sticks will slightly touch my CPU coolers fan, as in the little metal fins at the top of the RAM not the actual stick itself will the touch the outer shroud of the fan not the blades, it's not enough to really have me worried but I was just wondering if perhaps vibration or something could cause a problem down the line? Any insight is appreciated.

You should be able to scoot the fan up a bit so it clears the ram. Even if not, it's probably fine.
 
God damn. My first PC build, which I just completed 2 weeks ago, is no longer turning on. Really hope I haven't fucked any of the parts.

Probably just a loose/dislodged cable, or something equally simple. Go through the normal troubleshooting steps (IIRC there are some in the OP) and then post if you run into issues figuring it out.
 
Probably just a loose/dislodged cable, or something equally simple. Go through the normal troubleshooting steps (IIRC there are some in the OP) and then post if you run into issues figuring it out.

Wasn't able to find the troubleshooting steps. Would someone mind providing me some? I did the paperclip test on my PSU, which showed it wasn't the problem. May just be my wires, but I have a worrying feeling it's more sinister. Terrified it's my CPU or mobo, though may be my case. Trying to isolate the issue now.
 
Wasn't able to find the troubleshooting steps. Would someone mind providing me some? I did the paperclip test on my PSU, which showed it wasn't the problem. May just be my wires, but I have a worrying feeling it's more sinister. Terrified it's my CPU or mobo, though may be my case. Trying to isolate the issue now.

Hm, could have sworn there were some.

Anyway, so does the system not power on at all? No fans spin, mobo doesn't light up or anything?

First thing I would do is check the important cables... 24 pin ATX and 8 pin ATX from PSU to motherboard. Unplug unnecessary stuff.

Could be the switch on your case is gone. Should be able to power on the system directly from the motherboard (check your mobo manual if needed).
 
Hm, could have sworn there were some.

Anyway, so does the system not power on at all? No fans spin, mobo doesn't light up or anything?

First thing I would do is check the important cables... 24 pin ATX and 8 pin ATX from PSU to motherboard. Unplug unnecessary stuff.

Could be the switch on your case is gone. Should be able to power on the system directly from the motherboard (check your mobo manual if needed).

Just tried to short my motherboard, and didn't turn on. Guessing my mobo's at fault? Hopefully warranty will cover it - was working the past 2 weeks, then suddenly won't turn on.


Edit: we have life!! But it immediately turns off. :( Removed the cmos battery for a few minute and now it seems to be working, and after putting it back in we have life. Any idea what that means?
 
Truly irresponsible amounts of power :p
I'd love to see some 4K/5K benchmarks with these babies :eek:

Nice, can't wait to see numbers.

These are preliminary findings :

Never thought the time would come for me to say this but that 4K 144Hz monitor needs to come fast.

Two TXPs consistently run above the 4K60 G-Sync monitor I have and once the framerate jumps outside of the 60fps refresh rate, tearing will occur back again. Setting V-Sync back to on, reintroduced input lag that comes with that turned on, so now I'm stuck with punishing the games as hard as I can so that the framerate falls below 60fps to avoid tearing. Or Adaptive Sync perhaps? I absolutely hate input lags with the traditional V-Sync methods.

Yesterdays benchmark runs include GTAV and Dying Light. GTAV at 4K everything max except AA at FXAA, spits out 120-180fps that causes massive tearing during the in-game benchmark run, especially apparent in the transition where the jet plane leaves the city and the camera pans down to the driving portion. Pushing it to the absolute maximum with AA as well, draw distance, city populations, and "Ignore Suggested Limit" ON, brings it down to 55-70fps, that falls within that 60fps ceiling of the monitor to prevent tearing. I should try using frame limiter or DSR in the NV Control Panel next.

The same goes with Dying Light in 4K. Massive tearing when outside of 60fps. Framerates consistently go triple digits with everything maximum.

Sometimes, having too much power is also problematic. Never thought the day would come where I had to LIMIT the irresponsible amount of power coming from the TXP. :p Or maybe I should invest in two more 4K monitors for surround gaming, although I absolutely hate bezels in between.

Yesterday's test-bench: i7 5960X, 16GB DDR4-2400 running XMP profile, Samsung 950 Pro 256GB NVME M2 (3 seconds boot time, so fast you cant even go into BIOS!), ROG RAMPAGE EDITION 10 motherboard, two Titan X Pascals in SLI with HB SLI Bridge, Acer XB280HK 4K G-Sync 60Hz monitor. Both TXPs running stock. No OCs were attempted.
 
Just tried to short my motherboard, and didn't turn on. Guessing my mobo's at fault? Hopefully warranty will cover it - was working the past 2 weeks, then suddenly won't turn on.


Edit: we have life!! But it immediately turns off. :( Removed the cmos battery for a few minute and now it seems to be working, and after putting it back in we have life. Any idea what that means?

Hmm. Did you make any hardware changes before it stopped turning on? Not really sure why. Or some extreme overclocking?

I would just keep an eye on it. If you have issues, don't hesitate to RMA it if need be. What are the complete system specs and where did you buy the parts from?

Good luck!
 
Just tried to short my motherboard, and didn't turn on. Guessing my mobo's at fault? Hopefully warranty will cover it - was working the past 2 weeks, then suddenly won't turn on.


Edit: we have life!! But it immediately turns off. :( Removed the cmos battery for a few minute and now it seems to be working, and after putting it back in we have life. Any idea what that means?

Do a memtest with memtest86 on your ram, if the voltages or something are unstable you might need to tweak them or replace a stick if it's tossing errors.

This is a bigger issue with ddr4 since stock speed is only 2133 which means the often cheaper 2666-3200 speed ram is all overclocked, sometimes you need to tweak vccio/vccsa and ram voltages beyond the xmp profile just to get them to post.
 

Vintage

Member
Hi guys,
not exactly about new pc, but about upgrading RAM:

I have Corsair Vengeance 8gb (2x4gb) DDR3 1333 mhz sticks right now, and want to add another 8gb. However, there's no 1333mhz sticks to buy anymore, the lowest ones I can find are 1600mhz. Will these work fine and will the performance suffer? Or I just should throw the old ones away and buy new 16gb RAM of the same model, high frequency?

edit: I can find Corsair 1333mhz sticks, but these are not of 'Vengeance' brand. Would that make a difference?
edit2: I just realised there's no such thing as Corsair Vengeance 1333mhz. Mine is 1600mhz, only due to some reason it runs on 1333mhz on my machine. Will try to tweak something in bios. Thanks for help! :)
 
Hello,

Having recently upgraded my PC and now using Windows 10, I'm considering a new games controller and would be interested to hear recommendations.

I currently have a wired 360 pad which has served me well but the sticks are kind of worn and the d-pad is less than ideal.

I also have a Wii U pro controller and Mayflash adapter. I like this, but my only gripe is the surface button layout (ABXY) is positioned a little differently from what DXInput games expect.

Thanks in advance for your feedback. :)
 

Moa

Member
Planning on purchasing a GTX 1070 soon, just wondering if I should be getting it directly from NVIDIA or elsewhere? Really only looking to run games at 60FPS (monitors aren't any better than that).

I'm jumping up from a GTX 770 2GB (which can hardly keep 50 FPS on Witcher 3) and I'm trying to get more into PC gaming.
 

Bloodember

Member
have been reading that intel sockets 11xx share the same mounting holes, that true? i finally decided to upgrade my 2500k and have a 6600k coming in on saturday and would like to reuse my cooler.

Yes they use the same mounting holes. You can reuse your cooler.
 

V1LÆM

Gold Member
Hi guys,
not exactly about new pc, but about upgrading RAM:

I have Corsair Vengeance 8gb (2x4gb) DDR3 1333 mhz sticks right now, and want to add another 8gb. However, there's no 1333mhz sticks to buy anymore, the lowest ones I can find are 1600mhz. Will these work fine and will the performance suffer? Or I just should throw the old ones away and buy new 16gb RAM of the same model, high frequency?

edit: I can find Corsair 1333mhz sticks, but these are not of 'Vengeance' brand. Would that make a difference?
edit2: I just realised there's no such thing as Corsair Vengeance 1333mhz. Mine is 1600mhz, only due to some reason it runs on 1333mhz on my machine. Will try to tweak something in bios. Thanks for help! :)

i think ideally all sticks should be the same. same brand/model/capacity/speeds.

ddr3 sticks default to 1333mhz. you need to manually set them to whatever speed you want them to do. my 1600 sticks were 1333 so i just set it to 1600. my ddr4 ones defaults to 2133 and i set them to 2400 in the bios. of course if you did buy sticks advertised as 2133 then that's the fastest they'll go.

Planning on purchasing a GTX 1070 soon, just wondering if I should be getting it directly from NVIDIA or elsewhere? Really only looking to run games at 60FPS (monitors aren't any better than that).

I'm jumping up from a GTX 770 2GB (which can hardly keep 50 FPS on Witcher 3) and I'm trying to get more into PC gaming.

don't get a founders edition. get one by evga/msi/gigabyte/asus etc. much better cooling and overclocking. i have the MSI gaming X 1070 which is fantastic.
 

Bloodember

Member
Planning on purchasing a GTX 1070 soon, just wondering if I should be getting it directly from NVIDIA or elsewhere? Really only looking to run games at 60FPS (monitors aren't any better than that).

I'm jumping up from a GTX 770 2GB (which can hardly keep 50 FPS on Witcher 3) and I'm trying to get more into PC gaming.

Buy one from a third party vendor like Asus or Gigabyte to name a few, with custom coolers on it. You will be much happier with the temps.
 

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
i think ideally all sticks should be the same. same brand/model/capacity/speeds.

It's not necessary, though, just to be clear. Upon detecting a mixed configuration, the motherboard will downclock the RAM to either the default as defined by the processor's memory controller or the lowest speed detected.
 
Need some advice. I was playing Fallout 4 for about 20 mins, then during an fight with some rebels, everything went slow and stuttering.

Closed the game and 'system interrupts' was showing in task manager. This also happened during Doom.

Could it be a bug? Apparently the CPU usage goes high.


Actually, when this happened the first time I was playing doom and I was downloading the doom update ( that larger one that just came out) and during the installation of it my game went to a crawl. I have steam downloads enabled while in game. Maybe I should disable it.

I'm not sure if anything was downloading when I was playing Fallout 4 just now.
 

Goon

Member
Hey guys I was wondering if my PC was ready to be upgraded to a 1060GTX/480 or do i need upgrade something else

Current specs:

MOBO - P8Z77-VLK
RAM - 8 gb (4x2) 1600 mhz
GPU - 660 TI
CPU - 3750K
PSU - Coolmaster GX bronze 650 W
 
Hey guys I was wondering if my PC was ready to be upgraded to a 1060GTX/480 or do i need upgrade something else

Current specs:

MOBO - P8Z77-VLK
RAM - 8 gb (4x2) 1600 mhz
GPU - 660 TI
CPU - 3750K
PSU - Coolmaster GX bronze 650 W

You're good to go I'd say, but you could always get some more RAM. More and more games are requiring 16Gb.
 

Cindres

Vied for a tag related to cocks, so here it is.
Hey guys I was wondering if my PC was ready to be upgraded to a 1060GTX/480 or do i need upgrade something else

Current specs:

MOBO - P8Z77-VLK
RAM - 8 gb (4x2) 1600 mhz
GPU - 660 TI
CPU - 3750K
PSU - Coolmaster GX bronze 650 W

Quite similar to mine and I just upgraded to a 1060, you'll be fine but yeah an extra 8gb of memory wouldn't exactly hurt if you want it.
 

LilJoka

Member
Oh man, I don't know if I'm doing it right. I tried overclocking my i5-6600k to 4.0Ghz and slighly changed the voltage (added 0.002, from 1.168 to 1.170). Anyway, I'm now running AIDA64 overnight to see if its all stable (according to linustechtips, Prime95 is not recommended as it may overwhelm the system).

Its fine to use Prime95 on Skylake. It wasnt on Haswell since the adaptive Vcore would boost Vcore massively on AVX workloads.
If temps do rise too high on Prime95, use the blend test with custom setting of a min fft size 128k. Test lots of RAM too.

And use this instead of linustechtips...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1570313/skylake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics

Marathon-Man:
OCCT S
Linpack (Max) (From Intel's website, not from OCCT or any other place or XTU.)
P95 28.7 S

Tough:
P95 27.9
IBT (Max)

Medium:
x264 16T
ROG Realbench

Easy:
Stockfish (Chess, BMI2 version)
XTU
Aida64 (Full Suite)

Walk in the Park:
Cinebench
Firestrike
Booting into Windows

'Prime95 is not Certified for Haswell/Skylake/Insert Nonsense Here'
This was a myth that was perpetuated by some Youtubers. For Skylake it seems this has died down. But know that Prime95 will not eat your CPU and spit out the remains.
 

Moa

Member
Another question re: GTX 1070 from my current GTX 770

Will I need to upgrade anything else in my PC?

Current specs and stuff are:

Motherboard: ASUS® Z97-A: ATX, USB3.0, SATA 6GB/S, SLi, XFIRE
RAM: 16GB
GPU: GTX 770
CPU: i7 4790k 4.00GHz
PSU: CORSAIR 650W RM SERIES

Copied and pasted a ton of stuff there so apologies if there's info you don't need/do need.
 

LordAlu

Member
Another question re: GTX 1070 from my current GTX 770

Will I need to upgrade anything else in my PC?

Current specs and stuff are:

Motherboard: ASUS® Z97-A: ATX, USB3.0, SATA 6GB/S, SLi, XFIRE
RAM: 16GB
GPU: GTX 770
CPU: i7 4790k 4.00GHz
PSU: CORSAIR 650W RM SERIES

Copied and pasted a ton of stuff there so apologies if there's info you don't need/do need.
Nope, you're good to go :)
 

V1LÆM

Gold Member
Another question re: GTX 1070 from my current GTX 770

Will I need to upgrade anything else in my PC?

Current specs and stuff are:

Motherboard: ASUS® Z97-A: ATX, USB3.0, SATA 6GB/S, SLi, XFIRE
RAM: 16GB
GPU: GTX 770
CPU: i7 4790k 4.00GHz
PSU: CORSAIR 650W RM SERIES

Copied and pasted a ton of stuff there so apologies if there's info you don't need/do need.

that looks fine. most important things are your CPU and RAM which are OK. 16GB RAM is a good amount. 8GB is quickly becoming too little. CPU is by no means outdated or slow. it will work well with the 1070.
 

jfoul

Member
Any rumors floating around about the Kaby Lake release? If we're looking at CES2017, I'm just going to get a 6700K, and give my 4770K@4.4 to my wife.

Edit: Did some digging, looks like we might get a November release.
 

Smokey

Member
My computer keeps rebooting on its own. At least once a day. Event Log shows the following:

The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was: 0x0000001a (0x0000000000041793, 0xfffff6bffe6198e8, 0x0000000000000005, 0x0000000000000004

The bugcheck was: 0x0000001a (0x0000000000041792, 0xfffff6bffdbcb8e8, 0x0200000000000000, 0x0000000000000000)

The bugcheck was: 0x0000001a (0x0000000000041792, 0xfffff6801d2898e8, 0x0200000000000000, 0x0000000000000000

These are each over the last 3 days. It's been doing this for a while. I recently moved and it's still doing it, so it's not anything from my living area. Any ideas? What's the appropriate tool to diagnose these?
 
can I do better than this on a 1070 in Europe?

https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B01GXZ7Q3Y/

Yes.

And yes.

My computer keeps rebooting on its own. At least once a day. Event Log shows the following:

The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was: 0x0000001a (0x0000000000041793, 0xfffff6bffe6198e8, 0x0000000000000005, 0x0000000000000004

The bugcheck was: 0x0000001a (0x0000000000041792, 0xfffff6bffdbcb8e8, 0x0200000000000000, 0x0000000000000000)

The bugcheck was: 0x0000001a (0x0000000000041792, 0xfffff6801d2898e8, 0x0200000000000000, 0x0000000000000000

These are each over the last 3 days. It's been doing this for a while. I recently moved and it's still doing it, so it's not anything from my living area. Any ideas? What's the appropriate tool to diagnose these?

WhoCrashed, maybe?
 

shanafan

Member
Under Device Manager, my Corsair H100i v2 has the caution symbol next to it. I tried to find drivers for it, but to no avail. Does the cooler need a driver installed?

Edit: Nevermind, installed the Corsair Link program.

This is a followup question to the Corsair Link program. I tried to find information on this, but haven't been able to yet.

There are 3 modes for my fans speed in the Corsair Link program - Performance, Balanced and Quiet. What are the advantages to each? I am thinking if I am gaming, I could choose performance. If I am just web surfing, balanced. And, if I leave the computer idle, quiet is fine. Am I right with thinking that?

Thanks
 
Need some advice. I was playing Fallout 4 for about 20 mins, then during an fight with some rebels, everything went slow and stuttering.

Closed the game and 'system interrupts' was showing in task manager. This also happened during Doom.

Could it be a bug? Apparently the CPU usage goes high.


Actually, when this happened the first time I was playing doom and I was downloading the doom update ( that larger one that just came out) and during the installation of it my game went to a crawl. I have steam downloads enabled while in game. Maybe I should disable it.

I'm not sure if anything was downloading when I was playing Fallout 4 just now.

Something similar happened to me once, it turned out it was a malware program, pretending to have something to do with Steam, I think it was some kind of bitcoin farming program and it was using all my GPU, so my games would suddenly drop down to very low framerates.

Not sure if yours is the same kind of thing but might be worth running an Antivirus and Malware scan just to check for anything unusual.
 
This is a followup question to the Corsair Link program. I tried to find information on this, but haven't been able to yet.

There are 3 modes for my fans speed in the Corsair Link program - Performance, Balanced and Quiet. What are the advantages to each? I am thinking if I am gaming, I could choose performance. If I am just web surfing, balanced. And, if I leave the computer idle, quiet is fine. Am I right with thinking that?

Thanks

Performance will keep your CPU cooler but the fans will be loud as hell, Quite will be a little warmer but the fans will be less loud and Balanced will be somewhere in the middle.

You can also make a custom tab too and set the fan curve to how you want, to try and get a good balance between cool and fan noise or you could just swap the fans for something more silent because the Corsair fans can get pretty loud.
 

shanafan

Member
Performance will keep your CPU cooler but the fans will be loud as hell, Quite will be a little warmer but the fans will be less loud and Balanced will be somewhere in the middle.

You can also make a custom tab too and set the fan curve to how you want, to try and get a good balance between cool and fan noise or you could just swap the fans for something more silent because the Corsair fans can get pretty loud.

Thanks. If I could have a cooler computer (which would help my room a little cooler) then I could deal with a loud noise. Fair tradeoff ;)
 

Mareg

Member
My Mobo supports DDR3 RAM 2400(OC), is it safe to assume that most 240 pin DDR3 ram will work on it?

Yes, however, the sweet spot is 1600 for DDR3. You'll pay too much for 2400 without that much of a benefit. + you have more chance of having stability issue pushing for 2400. I would buy some good brand DDR3.

You should be able to find 2x8gig for cheap.
 

jonno394

Member
Yes, however, the sweet spot is 1600 for DDR3. You'll pay too much for 2400 without that much of a benefit. + you have more chance of having stability issue pushing for 2400. I would buy some good brand DDR3.

You should be able to find 2x8gig for cheap.

Thanks for the tip, I'm already on 1600mhz but only 8GB worth, the only reason I was asking was I got this response in the Deus Ex Thread

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=213353694&postcount=217
 

Effect

Member
Does anyone have this computer case? Rosewill CHALLENGER - Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147153&ignorebbr=1

The one I have now I've had for years and I really need something with better air flow to keep things cool during the summer months. This looks like a decent upgraded especailly if I had two more 120mm fan which I'm also picking up.

Here is the case I have now and looking at my order histor I got back in 2008. Wow. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147063
 

Iced

Member
Anyone here ever had to install a fan pointing at the VRM on their motherboard? I'm on liquid cooling and my CPU is throttling when stress testing after a while (mostly during the afternoon), even though it hovers around 65 degrees. It's super hot here this week so probably not the best time to stress test, but I want to make sure my system is stable and never throttling. I've read liquid cooling is great for CPUs but certain areas of your case can suffer from a lack of traditional air cooling fans, in particular the VRM.

Just wondering if there's a way to install one without it looking ugly, since my rig right now looks gorgeous.

Specs:
- i7 6700k (oc'd to 4.5) with a Kraken x61 AIO cooler
- Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI motherboard
- 16GB G Skill DDR4 ram (not overclocked)
- Gigabyte GTX 1070 Windforce
- NZXT S340 case

I have the two 140mm fans the Kraken came with at the front of my case pulling air in. Rear and top 120mm fans are exhaust.
 

kromeo

Member
My computer keeps rebooting on its own. At least once a day. Event Log shows the following:

The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was: 0x0000001a (0x0000000000041793, 0xfffff6bffe6198e8, 0x0000000000000005, 0x0000000000000004

The bugcheck was: 0x0000001a (0x0000000000041792, 0xfffff6bffdbcb8e8, 0x0200000000000000, 0x0000000000000000)

The bugcheck was: 0x0000001a (0x0000000000041792, 0xfffff6801d2898e8, 0x0200000000000000, 0x0000000000000000

These are each over the last 3 days. It's been doing this for a while. I recently moved and it's still doing it, so it's not anything from my living area. Any ideas? What's the appropriate tool to diagnose these?

I mentioned this exact problem the other day, it was the xbox one wireless receiver causing it my case
 

LordAlu

Member
Thanks for the tip, I'm already on 1600mhz but only 8GB worth, the only reason I was asking was I got this response in the Deus Ex Thread

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=213353694&postcount=217
It can make a difference in some applications (although more so with lower latency than increased frequency) but for gaming, the higher speed is going to make so small a difference that it would be pretty much un-noticeable. A good 8GB 1600MHz kit is definitely the way to go for your upgrade :)
 
Got my extra RAM in this morning, had a bit of a scare, had to reset CMOS to get my PC to boot, all is well now. I take it resetting CMOS also reset my CPU's overclock? That seems to be the only thing different.
 

LilJoka

Member
Anyone here ever had to install a fan pointing at the VRM on their motherboard? I'm on liquid cooling and my CPU is throttling when stress testing after a while (mostly during the afternoon), even though it hovers around 65 degrees. It's super hot here this week so probably not the best time to stress test, but I want to make sure my system is stable and never throttling. I've read liquid cooling is great for CPUs but certain areas of your case can suffer from a lack of traditional air cooling fans, in particular the VRM.

Just wondering if there's a way to install one without it looking ugly, since my rig right now looks gorgeous.

Specs:
- i7 6700k (oc'd to 4.5) with a Kraken x61 AIO cooler
- Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI motherboard
- 16GB G Skill DDR4 ram (not overclocked)
- Gigabyte GTX 1070 Windforce
- NZXT S340 case

I have the two 140mm fans the Kraken came with at the front of my case pulling air in. Rear and top 120mm fans are exhaust.

Hang the fan in any way possible, then after stress testing is done, remove the fan. This is very normal with water cooling. Had the same issue on my 3960X at 4.8Ghz with the EK L120.

Got my extra RAM in this morning, had a bit of a scare, had to reset CMOS to get my PC to boot, all is well now. I take it resetting CMOS also reset my CPU's overclock? That seems to be the only thing different.

It resets all BIOS settings.
 
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