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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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knitoe

Member
I bought and installed Corsair 16GB (2x8GB) Vengeance DDR3 2133MHz CL10 (CMZ16GX3M2A2133C10)

From here

http://www.centrecom.com.au/corsair-16gb-2x8gb-vengeance-ddr3-2133mhz-cl10-cmz16gx3m2a2133c10

My motherboard is asus Maximus gen V

https://www.asus.com/au/ROG-Republic-Of-Gamers/MAXIMUS_V_GENE/

The ram defaults to 1333mhz. I was told to enable XMP profile, but when I do the screen stays black and I have to reset my bios manually.

How can I get this memory running at 2133MHz?

Update to the latest bios. Usually, they improve ram compatibility. If you are already on the latest, try manually entering your ram spec instead of using XMP.
 

Nerrel

Member
I have my voltage on Adaptive Mode, C state on and then in Windows go to the power setting options and change it to Balanced mode, which then should let the CPU downclock when its not being pushed. Hope that helps.

From what I have gathered, you should use manual mode for stress testing to find suitable stable voltage (and verify that with a longer stress test). Then change the mode to adaptive.

I searched multiple Skylake overclocking videos, but LinusTechTips probably was the best: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjIweExETlI


Thank you for the responses, but I'm still not seeing clear instructions about configuring power options. It's pretty much all about the overclock alone. I've got C states and adaptive voltage enabled and the balanced power setting in Windows, but the clock rate and voltage never drop. Oddly enough, when I switch to "manual" then I do see the voltage drop in coretemp at idle, which doesn't happen with adaptive on. Clock rate never changes no matter what.

I wish this were as easy to do as it had been on my i5-2500k. I was able to get a great OC with low idle clocks and voltage easily. Better efficiency is one of the reasons I upgraded to Skylake, so it kind of sucks to be wasting power in idle, which is what the computer will be at the 90% of the time I'm not playing a game.
 
So I'm fairly certain my HDD is failing. I've been experiences massive slowdowns and program crashes with items on my HDD. SSD's seem fine.

Edit: Turns out it was the Sata port.
 
Welp, barring me finding an AMAZING deal on a z77 ITX board, I think I'll be looking into a totally new ITX build come December. 2500k, its been a good run <3

Wonder if I should keep the 390...
 
Going to a new owner hopefully soon.

FR9XFUXl.jpg

hNyXVwel.jpg
 
Update to the latest bios. Usually, they improve ram compatibility. If you are already on the latest, try manually entering your ram spec instead of using XMP.

Turns out my motherboard isn't compatible with the ram at 2133mhz, only worked at 1600mhz. Took it to a computer store but that's what they said.
 

knitoe

Member
Turns out my motherboard isn't compatible with the ram at 2133mhz, only worked at 1600mhz. Took it to a computer store but that's what they said.

According to the user manual, your MB supports up to 2600mhz DDR3. As to why it does not work, it probably has to do with issues compatibility which normally requires a new bios update will fix. If there are no new bios update that does it, you will need to manually enter the ram timings based on it's spec. Of course, since ram are backward compatible, you can run them at slower speeds.
 
According to the user manual, your MB supports up to 2600mhz DDR3. As to why it does not work, it probably has to do with issues compatibility which normally requires a new bios update will fix. If there are no new bios update that does it, you will need to manually enter the ram timings based on it's spec. Of course, since ram are backward compatible, you can run them at slower speeds.

Bios is the latest and they tried entering it manually but it would only accept 1600mhz.

Oh well. He said it's probably not on the compatibility list.
 

Nerrel

Member
So I'm fairly certain my HDD is failing. I've been experiences massive slowdowns and program crashes with items on my HDD. SSD's seem fine.

So here's my problem, it's a 2TB 7200rpm Seagate HDD I've been using for about four years. I need to replace it efficiently but I can't afford a large SSD. I'd prefer another 2TB drive (I typically only use about 1TB of it, but occasionally do a project that requires I have extra space.) What I'd like to know is, what's the best free program to test and make sure it's my HDD and second, is a Hybrid SSHD like this worth it in comparison to a say 7,200 RPM Seagate Barracuda?

This Hard Drive will mainly be used for games, video files, pictures etc. I can't fit on my SSD's (They are reserved for specific games)

fe465971df.png


I'd think this would mean there's a problem right? Seems rather unusual.

Do you by any chance use a registry optimizer or similar program? I had a problem after installing Windows 10 where my HDD usage would suddenly spike to 100% out of nowhere and my system slowed to a crawl. The problem repeated after clean installing again. I had been using WinASO registry optimizer and it turned out to be unsafe with with Windows 10, causing catastrophic failure. I reinstalled without using the optimizer and it's worked perfectly fine since. Those kinds of programs are useless garbage anyway, so if you're using one I'd say that's your problem.

I don't know about testing the drive other than to use Windows. I use cmd and chkdsk /scan when testing. If you constantly have errors, even after successfully repairing, there's a problem with the drive. Wish I could tell you more...
 
Do you by any chance use a registry optimizer or similar program? I had a problem after installing Windows 10 where my HDD usage would suddenly spike to 100% out of nowhere and my system slowed to a crawl. The problem repeated after clean installing again. I had been using WinASO registry optimizer and it turned out to be unsafe with with Windows 10, causing catastrophic failure. I reinstalled without using the optimizer and it's worked perfectly fine since. Those kinds of programs are useless garbage anyway, so if you're using one I'd say that's your problem.

I don't know about testing the drive other than to use Windows. I use cmd and chkdsk /scan when testing. If you constantly have errors, even after successfully repairing, there's a problem with the drive. Wish I could tell you more...

I just defragged the other day and ran CCcleaner. I have been on 10 for a while and it hasn't caused any issues though.

No Registry optimizer though.

As far as checking, I've done that and a Smart scan, no issue. Just ran an HDDtune test to check for failed sectors and they all came up green.
 

LilJoka

Member
I bought and installed Corsair 16GB (2x8GB) Vengeance DDR3 2133MHz CL10 (CMZ16GX3M2A2133C10)

From here

http://www.centrecom.com.au/corsair-16gb-2x8gb-vengeance-ddr3-2133mhz-cl10-cmz16gx3m2a2133c10

My motherboard is asus Maximus gen V

https://www.asus.com/au/ROG-Republic-Of-Gamers/MAXIMUS_V_GENE/

The ram defaults to 1333mhz. I was told to enable XMP profile, but when I do the screen stays black and I have to reset my bios manually.

How can I get this memory running at 2133MHz?

XMP speeds are not garunteed, it depends how good the CPU integrated memory controller is. That may need VTT voltage tweaking for suck high speeds too.
 

Pixieking

Banned
I just defragged the other day and ran CCcleaner. I have been on 10 for a while and it hasn't caused any issues though.

No Registry optimizer though.

As far as checking, I've done that and a Smart scan, no issue. Just ran an HDDtune test to check for failed sectors and they all came up green.

Have you replaced the SATA cable and tried a different SATA port on the motherboard?
 
At least it's kind-of solved. But, yeah, it may be the mobo is on the way out.

I just got it less than 6 months ago and already had some memory issues. Had to replace them because of an issue, they too were 6 months old, seemed it might have been the memory controller at first too. Had to check all my pins etc.

Going to check to see if a new cable changes anything in that slot. Fingers crossed.

Just ran a read test and the speed was pretty atrocious. 27mbs Average.
 
Have you replaced the SATA cable and tried a different SATA port on the motherboard?

Spoke to soon, I was tracing the wrong cable, I just moved my main SSD to different slot. It just started working again more efficiently, but slow. Changed cable on the HDD to see if that changes anything.
 

Pixieking

Banned
Spoke to soon, I was tracing the wrong cable, I just moved my main SSD to different slot. It just started working again more efficiently, but slow. Changed cable on the HDD to see if that changes anything.

Edit: Success! Seems it was just a faulty cable. Reading back at 120-160 MB/s!

Wooooo! Sweet! Good news. :D
 

Pixieking

Banned
:/ Yeah, that seems like it's a HD issue, though it's weird that it's so erratic. Are you running HDDTune with Task Manager open? Maybe it's another process that's competing for HD usage? I've had that every now-and-again, and when I've looked at Task Manager it's been a Windows process relating to updates and clean-up that's just automatically run and taken over disk usage.
 
:/ Yeah, that seems like it's a HD issue, though it's weird that it's so erratic. Are you running HDDTune with Task Manager open? Maybe it's another process that's competing for HD usage? I've had that every now-and-again, and when I've looked at Task Manager it's been a Windows process relating to updates and clean-up that's just automatically run and taken over disk usage.

Yea I was. I've just been trying to play some Arma III and Witcher 3 lately and they were both on my main HDD. Arma 3 started having massive frame hitching when zooming, switched it over to my SSD worked great. So I'm assuming it was having to do with LOD and asset loading. Witcher 3 is also experience incredibly long load times and issues with some assets loading. I think it's probably safe to say it's the HDD but I just wanted to cover all my bases.
 
Regarding the videocard, which is the best between the Zotac GeForce GTX 1060 6GB and the MSI GTX970 Gaming 4G? I found the latter on sales for 299&#8364;.

If you're in Europe (as it seems you are), I'm selling my "old" GTX 980 (still a bit faster than the 1060 although it has less VRAM, bought it in March of this year so it's still under warranty for a while) for 250&#8364;.

If you'd rather go new, definitely 1060.
 
Hi guys, I am thinking of upgrading my PC, and need some help. These are the bits that I will be keeping:

BitFenix Prodigy M Case
Corsair CX500 PSU
Kingston SSDNow 240GB
Seagate Barracuda 1TB

And the new bits are:

Intel Core i7 6700k
Corsair H80i GT Liquid Cooler
Gigabyte GTX 1070 Mini ITX OC (ETA?)
Corsair Vengeance 16gb (8gb x 2) 3200Mhz RAM
Asus Z170M-PLUS Motherboard

I would appreciate any comments regarding about any incompatibilities, bottlenecks, etc.

A couple of questions:

1. Will the current PSU be enough in terms of wattage?
2. My current SSD is quite old, will it present a bottleneck or it is not worth replacing?
3. The GeForce GTX 1070 Mini is marked as an "ITX" videocard, will it still be compatible with the Asus Z170M-Plus (which is a micro ATX board) and my PSU?
 

danthefan

Member
My Sapphire Nitro+ RX480 finally arrived today. I'm working so I can't really test it out but I'm so happy. Ordered it like a month ago so took forever to arrive. Finally replaced my 5 year old GTX580, wuhoo!
 

asa

Member
Finally about to order a new computer. If someone could check if I made any terrible mistakes with the parts, thank you :)

GPU:
MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Gaming X 8G NVIDIA 8GB 784,80 €

CPU and Cooler:
Intel Core I7-6700k 4,0ghz Lga1151 Tray 363,00 €
Thermaltake Contac 21 Cpu Cooler 25,30 €

Motherboard:
Asus Z170 Pro Gaming Lga1151 Atx Ddr4 Mb 166,40 €

Memory:
KINGSTON 32GB 2400MHZ DDR4 CL15 DIMM 154€

SSD/HD
Intel 535 Ssd 240gb Sata 2,5inch 16nm    108,50 €
Western Digital Wd Desktop Blue 1tb Sata 6gb/s 64mb    58,10 €

Power and case:
Fractal Design Psu Edison M 750w, Black 131,60 €
Fractal Design Define R5 Black 121,40 €

OS:
Microsoft Ms 1x Win 10 Home 64bit Dvd Oem (en) 116,80 €
Total:   2 030,30 €
 
D

Deleted member 325805

Unconfirmed Member
I got that Xonar DG 5.1 sound card today that a couple of you suggested and I'm really happy with it, a nice bump over my onboard for sure, it's considerably louder for a start, and just very clear. It took 2 minutes to download and install the ASUS Windows 10 driver and I was up and running, a much easier process than on my old Creative sound card which just doesn't work properly on Windows 10. And to top it off it was brand new, still all sealed up so I basically got it for £10 off, sometimes 0 feedback sellers are legit on eBay apparently.

I used this guys guide to set it up and it sounds really good now: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbLgqOKAPIg
 

enewtabie

Member
This thread has been super helpful. Second guessing the cpu cooler. Got an Hyper 212 Evo for my 6700K/1070 GTX. Thinking I might need to go with a Corsair H100i GTX or H80iGT. Like the idea of the Corsair Link. I'm in a S340 case btw.
Yay or Nay?
 
This thread has been super helpful. Second guessing the cpu cooler. Got an Hyper 212 Evo for my 6700K/1070 GTX. Thinking I might need to go with a Corsair H100i GTX or H80iGT. Like the idea of the Corsair Link. I'm in a S340 case btw.
Yay or Nay?

The closed loop liquid coolers are fantastic, I'd definitely recommend it if you feel like putting a little more money down.
 

Arkanius

Member
Guys, I have the opportunity to upgrade my Mobo+CPU+RAM since my girlfriend needs a new PC and I can give her my system (i5 3570k+8GB DDR3 RAM) and buy the upgrade for me.

Now... I'm completely undecided. I've seen everyone sing praise of the X99 platform, but it seems so overkill for a gaming system. This time I wanted to go with an i7 so I can use Hyperthreading and GPU passthrough (So I can do my Linux + Windows VM system) but not sure I can justify the cost on Haswell-E (1000€ + 500 for Mobo? Ouch)

If I go with a 6700K, which mobo should I pick? I wanted something that had Bluetooth + a decent BIOS for overclocking. Everything else (colors, RGB and shit) I don't care at all for how it looks. Reinforced PCI-E would be a nice bonus though.
 

ncslamm

Member
Guys I've got a 1080 and the Predator XB271HU. Should I have vsync on, off, fast, or adaptive? I really don't know what's the best choice.
 

Arkanius

Member
Guys I've got a 1080 and the Predator XB271HU. Should I have vsync on, off, fast, or adaptive? I really don't know what's the best choice.

It has Gsync right?
Set it to Gsync ON and Vsync On in the Global settings.

Ingames, set Vsync to OFF

EDIT:

How Vsync On and OFF works with Gsync ON:

When Vsync On is set + Gsync On, when you reach the limit of your monitor (144hz), Gsync will deactivate and normal Vsync will activate, which might add some input lag when you are the silky smooth 144hz.

When Vsync off is set + Gsync On, when you reach the limit of your monitor (144hz), Gsync will deactivate and no Vsync will kick in, so you can reach whatever framerate you can pump up (200fps for example) and no input lag will be present. Tearing will show however above 144hz.

Hope it helped.
 

vector824

Member
Hi guys, I am thinking of upgrading my PC, and need some help. These are the bits that I will be keeping:

BitFenix Prodigy M Case
Corsair CX500 PSU
Kingston SSDNow 240GB
Seagate Barracuda 1TB

And the new bits are:

Intel Core i7 6700k
Corsair H80i GT Liquid Cooler
Gigabyte GTX 1070 Mini ITX OC (ETA?)
Corsair Vengeance 16gb (8gb x 2) 3200Mhz RAM
Asus Z170M-PLUS Motherboard

I would appreciate any comments regarding about any incompatibilities, bottlenecks, etc.

A couple of questions:

1. Will the current PSU be enough in terms of wattage?
2. My current SSD is quite old, will it present a bottleneck or it is not worth replacing?
3. The GeForce GTX 1070 Mini is marked as an "ITX" videocard, will it still be compatible with the Asus Z170M-Plus (which is a micro ATX board) and my PSU?

You don't need 3200mhz RAM, save a few bucks and go for 3000mhz. The gains are only 1-2fps, if any at all.

I would get a new PSU that is at least 550w. A 650w will give you plenty of headroom. From what I have heard the CX series aren't good for high load systems, but the RMx PSUs are great. I have an RMx650w.

SSD should be fine, there are newer faster ones but if you don't want to spend the money you wont notice much of a difference.

As for the GPU the ITX means it will fit inside a small case, the length of the card is what it's referring too. You could *probably* fit a full sized GPU in the case you have. I would just verify the inside length with whatever card you order.

Finally about to order a new computer. If someone could check if I made any terrible mistakes with the parts, thank you :)

GPU:
MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Gaming X 8G NVIDIA 8GB 784,80 &#8364;

CPU and Cooler:
Intel Core I7-6700k 4,0ghz Lga1151 Tray 363,00 &#8364;
Thermaltake Contac 21 Cpu Cooler 25,30 &#8364;

Motherboard:
Asus Z170 Pro Gaming Lga1151 Atx Ddr4 Mb 166,40 &#8364;

Memory:
KINGSTON 32GB 2400MHZ DDR4 CL15 DIMM 154&#8364;

SSD/HD
Intel 535 Ssd 240gb Sata 2,5inch 16nm    108,50 &#8364;
Western Digital Wd Desktop Blue 1tb Sata 6gb/s 64mb    58,10 &#8364;

Power and case:
Fractal Design Psu Edison M 750w, Black 131,60 &#8364;
Fractal Design Define R5 Black 121,40 &#8364;

OS:
Microsoft Ms 1x Win 10 Home 64bit Dvd Oem (en) 116,80 &#8364;
Total:   2 030,30 &#8364;

Are you doing some sort of 3D/Video/CAD rendering? An i7 and 32gb of RAM is excessive unless that's your main use. You might want to spring for a M.2 Card for your SSD if you're going to be moving big files around. At least get a 2tb WD Black also if that's the case.
 

LordAlu

Member
Guys, I have the opportunity to upgrade my Mobo+CPU+RAM since my girlfriend needs a new PC and I can give her my system (i5 3570k+8GB DDR3 RAM) and buy the upgrade for me.

Now... I'm completely undecided. I've seen everyone sing praise of the X99 platform, but it seems so overkill for a gaming system. This time I wanted to go with an i7 so I can use Hyperthreading and GPU passthrough (So I can do my Linux + Windows VM system) but not sure I can justify the cost on Haswell-E (1000€ + 500 for Mobo? Ouch)

If I go with a 6700K, which mobo should I pick? I wanted something that had Bluetooth + a decent BIOS for overclocking. Everything else (colors, RGB and shit) I don't care at all for how it looks. Reinforced PCI-E would be a nice bonus though.
Motherboards with built-in Bluetooth aren't really common, so you only tend to find it on very expensive boards such as the ASUS Z170-DELUXE. It's much better to just get the board you like/need and then purchase a decent Bluetooth adapter, or even a wireless card with Bluetooth like the Gigabyte WB867D-I.
 

Arkanius

Member
Motherboards with built-in Bluetooth aren't really common, so you only tend to find it on very expensive boards such as the ASUS Z170-DELUXE. It's much better to just get the board you like/need and then purchase a decent Bluetooth adapter, or even a wireless card with Bluetooth like the Gigabyte WB867D-I.

I guess I can skip the Bluetooth requirement.
I'll settle with the cheapest that can OC well and has reinforced PCI slots. (And allows me for VT-D)

Any recommendations?
 

ncslamm

Member
It has Gsync right?
Set it to Gsync ON and Vsync On in the Global settings.

Ingames, set Vsync to OFF

EDIT:

How Vsync On and OFF works with Gsync ON:

When Vsync On is set + Gsync On, when you reach the limit of your monitor (144hz), Gsync will deactivate and normal Vsync will activate, which might add some input lag when you are the silky smooth 144hz.

When Vsync off is set + Gsync On, when you reach the limit of your monitor (144hz), Gsync will deactivate and no Vsync will kick in, so you can reach whatever framerate you can pump up (200fps for example) and no input lag will be present. Tearing will show however above 144hz.

Hope it helped.

Ok thanks. One other question about my monitor. It has overclocking to 165hz which I did. I heard some rumor that this disables gsync? Is that true?
 
What do people do to maximize WiFi coverage in their house? Are the 3 pack WiFi extenders on amazon a good buy? Can you do the same router with same WiFi names / password?
 

enewtabie

Member
What do people do to maximize WiFi coverage in their house? Are the 3 pack WiFi extenders on amazon a good buy? Can you do the same router with same WiFi names / password?

I bought the Netgear range extender. It goes with my N300 modem. My office is on the other side of the house from my router. 35 bucks or so and I have full signal now. Uses the same password/name just has ext on the end.
 
I bought the Netgear range extender. It goes with my N300 modem. My office is on the other side of the house from my router. 35 bucks or so and I have full signal now. Uses the same password/name just has ext on the end.

I didn't know own I was ignorant of these. These should work with any netgear correct?

Would your device like a phone or tablet switch between the stronger signal?
 

theRizzle

Member
Hi guys, I am thinking of upgrading my PC, and need some help. These are the bits that I will be keeping:

BitFenix Prodigy M Case
Corsair CX500 PSU
Kingston SSDNow 240GB
Seagate Barracuda 1TB

And the new bits are:

Intel Core i7 6700k
Corsair H80i GT Liquid Cooler
Gigabyte GTX 1070 Mini ITX OC (ETA?)
Corsair Vengeance 16gb (8gb x 2) 3200Mhz RAM
Asus Z170M-PLUS Motherboard

I would appreciate any comments regarding about any incompatibilities, bottlenecks, etc.

A couple of questions:

1. Will the current PSU be enough in terms of wattage?
2. My current SSD is quite old, will it present a bottleneck or it is not worth replacing?
3. The GeForce GTX 1070 Mini is marked as an "ITX" videocard, will it still be compatible with the Asus Z170M-Plus (which is a micro ATX board) and my PSU?

I'll echo what vector824 said about your PSU... you should probably upgrade that. 500w is right at the low end of what you would want, and the CX series aren't that great. SSD is probably fine for now.

I have a regular Bitfenix Prodigy and I have an ITX sized 970 in it right now. I could fit a full sized GPU if I took out one of the HD cages, so I'm almost certain you could fit one in your Prodigy M. That would probably be a better option since you will probably be paying a premium on the 1070 Mini just because it's small.
 
What do people do to maximize WiFi coverage in their house? Are the 3 pack WiFi extenders on amazon a good buy? Can you do the same router with same WiFi names / password?

People just run some cables along the walls.

Really, with flat wires it's just too easy today running cables around (and you won't notice them).

That way you can have the best of both worlds: cabled where you need it (gaming, streaming, etc.) and wireless for other things (phones, tablets, etc.).
 
Around 1.45v, way past what most cooling can even withstand. You'll hit cooling problems before Vcore limits. 1.2v should be good for 4.4-4.5Ghz.

Thanks for all the help! :) Hmm well since I got pretty unsure about vCore readings I settled for 4.4ghz at +0.035v offset now which seems to work stable. Temps are mostly around 65°C apart from some short single bursts to 80°C for a few seconds during some Prime segments.

4.5ghz was unstable at even +0.070 and going even higher didn't seem to be worth the trouble until I understand how to properly read vCore readings.

During my 4.4ghz test-run @ +0.035 I saw the following:

CPU-Z 1.136v
HWInfo64 CPU Status ViD: 1.1859

Now these are both not even 1.2v yet so I could likely hit 4.5ghz although these numbers really confuse me, how do I properly read my vCore? o.o
 
People just run some cables along the walls.

Really, with flat wires it's just too easy today running cables around (and you won't notice them).

That way you can have the best of both worlds: cabled where you need it (gaming, streaming, etc.) and wireless for other things (phones, tablets, etc.).

I will run cables for dedicated devices. This is for phones and tablets.
 
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