Novum_Veritas
Member
okay that sucks, good luck with the exchange.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
okay that sucks, good luck with the exchange.
socksfelloff
Member
What temp is the card running at? Perhaps it's being throttled
Yautja_Warrior
Member
My GTX 1070 arrived today, so my PC is pretty much done now.
Few more pics of the beast. The 1070 Armor goes great with the white colour scheme.
I just need to get a few cable combs to make the cables look a little more tidy and I'm waiting for my Hue+ LED lights and White GPU backplate to arrive but apart from that, its all done and working.
Few more pics of the beast. The 1070 Armor goes great with the white colour scheme.
I just need to get a few cable combs to make the cables look a little more tidy and I'm waiting for my Hue+ LED lights and White GPU backplate to arrive but apart from that, its all done and working.
Thanks!
I have and i5 6600K and it's crazy fast. I think you'll be more than happy with the step up. Only go for an i7 if you're doing work that requires a high core CPU, like rendering video for example. If you're just strictly gaming the i5 gives you 20% performance per dollar vs the i7 with only a 5% drop in performance. You can always hold out with an i5 Skylake until Kabylake and jump on an i7 then if you find yourself wanting.
Here's some comparisons:
http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-vs-Intel-Core-i5-6600K/3502vs3503
http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-vs-Intel-Core-i5-6600K
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhaB1dqYv_I
Dusktildawn48
Member
Thanks, hopefully this fixes it.
Dont remember the exact temp, but definitely wasnt over 75c
I went with the i7, doing some audio batch rendering work later this fall. Thanks for the tips, though. Just placed the order, with the sexy white cab!
Good deal. I know you'll be more than happy with that rig! Post some pics when it's all done!
super-famicom
Member
Another GAFfer going with the white S340? Excellent choice. I originally wanted the black/blue model, but my wife convinced me to get the white model. She obviously has superior taste.
I have the back/blue! I love it. My friend has the white, convinced me originally to get it. Looks fantastic with the HUE+ module.
I'd like some advice for Skylake overclocking. I've got my i5-6600k at a stable 4.5ghz, but the voltage and clock speed always stay locked at their maximums. I've read through several guides, but none of them really detail how to get around this. One guide recommended to use offset voltage mode, but claimed it was risky and provided no instructions about how to do it. C states and the other relevant settings I'm aware of are active...
What's the best way to keep a Skylake overclock active without using so much power in idle? Right now I'm just using it stock since I don't have a pressing need for more CPU power, with my overclock profile sitting aside until I need it (using an ASUS Z170-E mb), but it would be nice to have both power and idle efficiency at once.
What's the best way to keep a Skylake overclock active without using so much power in idle? Right now I'm just using it stock since I don't have a pressing need for more CPU power, with my overclock profile sitting aside until I need it (using an ASUS Z170-E mb), but it would be nice to have both power and idle efficiency at once.
Yautja_Warrior
Member
I have my voltage on Adaptive Mode, C state on and then in Windows go to the power setting options and change it to Balanced mode, which then should let the CPU downclock when its not being pushed. Hope that helps.
From what I have gathered, you should use manual mode for stress testing to find suitable stable voltage (and verify that with a longer stress test). Then change the mode to adaptive.
I searched multiple Skylake overclocking videos, but LinusTechTips probably was the best: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjIweExETlI
So I'm noticing my CPU fan isn't being recognized properly by my motherboard in my new PC build. It did before, I know that, but today I noticed the fan speed was suddenly mysteriously absent when looking in HWMonitor, and indeed BIOS is saying "0 RPM". I don't know exactly when this started.
The fan works, and I can even toggle the fan control setting in BIOS on and off and it adjusts itself accordingly, but I can't see the speed. So the issue is not really that serious, but I don't particularly like not being able to monitor my CPU fan and don't want it to be the start of more serious problems. I updated BIOS, but it didn't fix the problem, and I've also tried reconnecting the 4-pin connector but to no avail.
Anyone had this issue? The motherboard is a MSI H110M PRO-VH, and the CPU fan is a stock Intel cooler for the i5-6500.
The fan works, and I can even toggle the fan control setting in BIOS on and off and it adjusts itself accordingly, but I can't see the speed. So the issue is not really that serious, but I don't particularly like not being able to monitor my CPU fan and don't want it to be the start of more serious problems. I updated BIOS, but it didn't fix the problem, and I've also tried reconnecting the 4-pin connector but to no avail.
Anyone had this issue? The motherboard is a MSI H110M PRO-VH, and the CPU fan is a stock Intel cooler for the i5-6500.
opticalmace
Member
Plugged into the wall or on battery? How old is it, still under warranty? Overclocking at all?
lostsupper
Banned
Tested both wall and battery, same response.
Purchased it with school funds last June.
No overclocking. 100% stock.
opticalmace
Member
Try booting to Ubuntu through a USB stick... If it works then it's something about windows maybe. Doubt it though.
Probably have to RMA, I would guess.
Around a year ago I was asking around in this thread for gpu upgrade advice and MrNoisy very generously offered to just give me his 7950 since he was upgrading.
I have now also upgraded and feel the only appropriate thing is to pass it along to someone else in this thread. It's still a great 1080p card, the only reason I upgraded was because AMD doesn't work well for in-home streaming so I had to go over to nvidia.
So PM me if you want it and are confident you'll use it, I'll ship it out to you (NA 48 states) sometime this week!
I have now also upgraded and feel the only appropriate thing is to pass it along to someone else in this thread. It's still a great 1080p card, the only reason I upgraded was because AMD doesn't work well for in-home streaming so I had to go over to nvidia.
So PM me if you want it and are confident you'll use it, I'll ship it out to you (NA 48 states) sometime this week!
I've been looking into acquiring a desk for my pc since my current setup has me sitting on my bed with my rig on the floor and monitor on a nightstand. Sitting on my comfy bed has has started hurting my productivity so I need a change.
I have limited space so I've been looking into these desks that also double as cases:
http://www.lian-li.com/en/products-computer-desk/#all/1/grid
They seem like exactly what I need, but I know very little about them.
I have limited space so I've been looking into these desks that also double as cases:
http://www.lian-li.com/en/products-computer-desk/#all/1/grid
They seem like exactly what I need, but I know very little about them.
Hi PCGAF. I'd some advice on a new PC gaming build. All prices in CAD
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($338.98 @ NCIX)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($45.18 @ NCIX)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($203.38 @ NCIX)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($127.67 @ NCIX)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($71.17 @ NCIX)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($135.58 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($163.82 @ NCIX)
Total: $1085.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-14 20:41 EDT-0400
Reasoning for some of the choices:
CPU: I'm only gaming with this PC so I figure I don't need the i7 and can save the extra $130
GPU: Bringing my 970 over from older build
Are there any parts I can optimize here?
- Memory: I have no idea if this particular module is good or overpriced. I looked for 16GB (8GB x2) of DDR4 3000 RAM & the reviews seem good.
- Power Supply: I also have no idea if this particular PSU is decent. It seems expensive. I'm not ever planning on doing any SLI. I've had bad experience in the past with PSU failures so I opted for a higher quality one - is this more than I need?
- Motherboard: Seems like a decent Gigabyte board. ASUS's mATX boards in the same price range don't seem to do anything special over Gigabyte
- Case: I'm struggling the most with this. I currently have a Fractal Design R5 that I love: it's super quiet, nice mounting options & had lots of room to build in. I'm having trouble finding a microATX equivalent. This PC is going to be sitting beside my TV so I'd like something low-key and that doesn't scream "I AM FOR GAMERZ". Anyone have any recommendations? It doesn't necessarily need to be microATX (I'd just make sure to get a ATX mobo as well)
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, especially on case selection.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($338.98 @ NCIX)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($45.18 @ NCIX)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($203.38 @ NCIX)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($127.67 @ NCIX)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($71.17 @ NCIX)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($135.58 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($163.82 @ NCIX)
Total: $1085.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-14 20:41 EDT-0400
Reasoning for some of the choices:
CPU: I'm only gaming with this PC so I figure I don't need the i7 and can save the extra $130
GPU: Bringing my 970 over from older build
Are there any parts I can optimize here?
- Memory: I have no idea if this particular module is good or overpriced. I looked for 16GB (8GB x2) of DDR4 3000 RAM & the reviews seem good.
- Power Supply: I also have no idea if this particular PSU is decent. It seems expensive. I'm not ever planning on doing any SLI. I've had bad experience in the past with PSU failures so I opted for a higher quality one - is this more than I need?
- Motherboard: Seems like a decent Gigabyte board. ASUS's mATX boards in the same price range don't seem to do anything special over Gigabyte
- Case: I'm struggling the most with this. I currently have a Fractal Design R5 that I love: it's super quiet, nice mounting options & had lots of room to build in. I'm having trouble finding a microATX equivalent. This PC is going to be sitting beside my TV so I'd like something low-key and that doesn't scream "I AM FOR GAMERZ". Anyone have any recommendations? It doesn't necessarily need to be microATX (I'd just make sure to get a ATX mobo as well)
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, especially on case selection.
dreamer3kx
Member
Should I go with a 32 inch IPS 60hz or 24 inch 144hz Freesync TN, both 1080, have a 480 8 gig. Im worried about TN colors, I dont play competitive mp at all, I will play say battlefield singleplayer, usually play the new AAA games, upcoming Deus Ex etc..
RobotsAnger
Member
Anyone know how much an old computer will bottleneck a good graphics card?
Back in 2012, I got a computer with an i5 2500 3.3GHZ Sandy Bridge CPU, 8GB DDR3 1600MHz of RAM, AMD 7850
I want to pick up a GTX 1070 but I'm wondering whether I need to replace everything or can I just swap the cards. If the perfomance gain for replacing everything is not significant, I'd rather save my money and wait till the next gen of graphics cards before rebuilding my comp from scratch.
Back in 2012, I got a computer with an i5 2500 3.3GHZ Sandy Bridge CPU, 8GB DDR3 1600MHz of RAM, AMD 7850
I want to pick up a GTX 1070 but I'm wondering whether I need to replace everything or can I just swap the cards. If the perfomance gain for replacing everything is not significant, I'd rather save my money and wait till the next gen of graphics cards before rebuilding my comp from scratch.
demosthenes
Member
Not exactly a pc question but would appreciate any answers. I'm buying a house, I close in 2 weeks and I'm looking for something either a laptop or a tablet for web browsing in the family room, and the kitchen, while being able to look up recipes, stream twitch/Netflix, etc. Any thoughts? I'm hoping to not break the bank and I've been out of the laptop/tablet scene forever. I use a galaxy phone so I suppose I'd be used to an android tablet?
Greatest Ever
Member
You are me when it came to needs about a week ago.
Get a Surface 3, the 4 GB RAM 128 GB storage model. Off eBay I got mine with the detachable keyboard and stylus like new for $350.
Seriously, the fact it runs full Windows makes it so versatile. You get a better browsing experience while also getting a decent keyboard, all while having a kickstand to watch Netflix on a table without having to prop it up against something.
Edit: yeah if you're looking to cook and look, the kickstand is invaluable for letting you get both hands dirty without propping it up.
i put together 4 cheap office pcs for my employer
AMD A4 7300
Gigabyte GA-F2A68HM-HD2
PNY Anarchy 8GB Kit (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz (PC3-17000)
so ram is 2133 and the mobo supports it. when i get into bios i see ram running at 1600. i enable xmp and set it to 2133 but i cant get it to boot. bios says OC failure. even trying at 1866 i get a failure. only thing i did was enable xmp and left everything else on auto. i know the people at work wont care or even notice, but im just curious and its bothering me. is it the mobo or rams fault? or pebkac?
AMD A4 7300
Gigabyte GA-F2A68HM-HD2
PNY Anarchy 8GB Kit (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz (PC3-17000)
so ram is 2133 and the mobo supports it. when i get into bios i see ram running at 1600. i enable xmp and set it to 2133 but i cant get it to boot. bios says OC failure. even trying at 1866 i get a failure. only thing i did was enable xmp and left everything else on auto. i know the people at work wont care or even notice, but im just curious and its bothering me. is it the mobo or rams fault? or pebkac?
joecanada
Member
I'm wondering this as well but with mine I'll put the pc to sleep and then look over an hour later and it's on and running, fans, lights . When I turn on monitor to check I don't see it doing anything.
Also I tried to change my stereo mix as I wanted to run sound to pc speakers and av receiver... Now it's frozen and if I even open the sound menu it crashes " windows shell has stopped".
Any way to repair or reset the sound settings?
I isolated the problem of my pc. It turns on from off for 30 seconds, however, if I pull off my video card and use the igfx it turns on immediately. New mobo, do I have to reinstall OS? Unfortunately, I sold my extra gpu so i cant test it. My previous mobo never had the problem booting with this new card.
When in windows though, never had problems with performance or heat. Or resetting. Only when turning on the pc from off.
When in windows though, never had problems with performance or heat. Or resetting. Only when turning on the pc from off.
Poetic.Injustice
Member
Not sure if its the right place to ask.
Two of my case fans stopped working. I opened up my pc to replace the gpus fans which were both dead or dying. I didn't notice but two case fans stopped working today. The buttons for the high low fan speed had an led light on then which is now off.
What should I do?
Two of my case fans stopped working. I opened up my pc to replace the gpus fans which were both dead or dying. I didn't notice but two case fans stopped working today. The buttons for the high low fan speed had an led light on then which is now off.
What should I do?
Dusktildawn48
Member
Just fyi, new card solved My problem
demosthenes
Member
Greatest Ever
Member
Here's a link to a review
As for purchasing it, that can be a bit frustrating. The tablet itself is the bulk of the price, but the keyboard is nearly a must for full functionality. If you find a good deal like eBay (mine was from a random seller), then you're golden. If you're intent on buying new you may rack up quite a cost.
Greatest Ever
Member
Started from the bottom
Now we're here
Thanks to the GAFfers who helped me. PC building is deceptively simply, and I had a blast doing it. That feeling when everything works is a fucking blast.
Now we're here
Thanks to the GAFfers who helped me. PC building is deceptively simply, and I had a blast doing it. That feeling when everything works is a fucking blast.
WetPotatoBread
Banned
Guys I plan on building my first rig and I wanted to know your recommendations/ suggestions?
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG R1 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($101.69 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($132.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($73.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($157.95 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($439.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case ($194.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: CRYORIG XF140 76.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($16.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: CRYORIG XF140 76.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($16.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Dell S2716DG 27.0" 144Hz Monitor ($499.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2012.53
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-14 23:57 EDT-0400
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG R1 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($101.69 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($132.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($73.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($157.95 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($439.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case ($194.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: CRYORIG XF140 76.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($16.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: CRYORIG XF140 76.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($16.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Dell S2716DG 27.0" 144Hz Monitor ($499.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2012.53
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-14 23:57 EDT-0400
Clint Beastwood
Banned
I'd like to build a 4K gaming rig when I do my next build but for stuff like Quake Champions/CSGO, I can still keep my 144hz monitor right?
Probably a dumb question but my current dual monitor setup is two of the same monitors, and most setups I see of people having multi-monitor setups all basically have the same monitors as well.
Probably a dumb question but my current dual monitor setup is two of the same monitors, and most setups I see of people having multi-monitor setups all basically have the same monitors as well.
I noticed a number of you guys proposing rigs with slow DDR4. That doesn't seem like that great of idea as DDR4 performs about the same as DDR3 in real world performance if you get 2133 or so. Might as well go for DDR4-3000 to see an actual boost.
Also, always get at least a 500 GB SSD nowadays. You'll regret going smaller when you find yourself installing most of your games to the SSD for performance reasons. My two 3 TB drives aren't seeing much use other than movie blu-ray rips. And games are getting larger, most of the big AAA releases are 30-60 GB in size.
Also, always get at least a 500 GB SSD nowadays. You'll regret going smaller when you find yourself installing most of your games to the SSD for performance reasons. My two 3 TB drives aren't seeing much use other than movie blu-ray rips. And games are getting larger, most of the big AAA releases are 30-60 GB in size.
Strafebogey
Member
Just arrived ready to be installed today.
32GB worth of DDR4 at 3200Mhz, and 512GB worth of NVME M2 running at 2.5GB/s read rate.
32GB worth of DDR4 at 3200Mhz, and 512GB worth of NVME M2 running at 2.5GB/s read rate.
Melhisedek
Member
Guys my specs are:
3570k @ 4.4
8GB cas9 1600MHz DDR3
GTX 770 2GB
so the other day I started getting random reboots and whatnot and after I checked the RAM it gave me a lot of errors. Checked with the store and they didn't have the actual RAM I've bought but will give me credit towards other stuff. So I thought about going with 16 GB for starters and buying faster RAM. Now I know it won't help averages but I've heard it will help with MIN framerates. Is that true and if yes what should I go with? Fastest MHz or CAS? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
tl;dr does faster RAM help with min FPS and what should I get in that case?
3570k @ 4.4
8GB cas9 1600MHz DDR3
GTX 770 2GB
so the other day I started getting random reboots and whatnot and after I checked the RAM it gave me a lot of errors. Checked with the store and they didn't have the actual RAM I've bought but will give me credit towards other stuff. So I thought about going with 16 GB for starters and buying faster RAM. Now I know it won't help averages but I've heard it will help with MIN framerates. Is that true and if yes what should I go with? Fastest MHz or CAS? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
tl;dr does faster RAM help with min FPS and what should I get in that case?
Yeah, happens to my laptop an average of once every 2 or 3 weeks. Seems to be no rhyme or reason to it. Occasionally happens on my wife's laptop, too. I'm not stressing until Windows throws an error at me for it.
On the "anyone else experience" front:
Anyone else experience troubles with an Intel WiFi card? Dual Band Wireless AC-7265 was working fine a few days ago (after the Win 10 Anniversary Update), but now Windows gives me WiFi AutoConfig and DNS errors every 40 minutes or so. Turned the Power Saving options off and updated drivers, but it's still happening, and have had to resort to USB WiFi stick.
flipswitch
Member
Does this look right?
I have Cortona disabled, but it's still eating my CPU apparently.
I have Cortona disabled, but it's still eating my CPU apparently.
It's actually SearchUI that's snacking on your processor. I don't think you can disable it without disabling Windows' search function altogether.
Hello everyone,
Back in June, I posted here (PC specs included) mentioning that I wanted to upgrade my PC in August. Well, it is time.
Regarding the budget, I can go up to 600€. Maybe 700€, but I don't want to go higher.
So, I am planning to change my Mothercard, my CPU and, maybe, my GPU. Also need advices for the eventual cooler. I may need to change the RAM though, if the one I use is not compatible with the new motherboard (how to check that?).
Regarding the components:
Thank you very much for your advices in advance!
Back in June, I posted here (PC specs included) mentioning that I wanted to upgrade my PC in August. Well, it is time.
Regarding the budget, I can go up to 600€. Maybe 700€, but I don't want to go higher.
So, I am planning to change my Mothercard, my CPU and, maybe, my GPU. Also need advices for the eventual cooler. I may need to change the RAM though, if the one I use is not compatible with the new motherboard (how to check that?).
Regarding the components:
- CPU: I plan to buy an i7 (or an i5... I didn't expect i7s to be so expensive).
- Motherboard: I have really no idea what to take, so I hope you will be able to direct me to a good one.
- GPU: A friend talk about lending me his MSI 560 GTX, though it is not certain (he may need to move, and he is not taking his PC with him). I am still considering buying a better card, since the 560 is a little old and he is not sure to move. I want a NVIDIA, as AMD seems to be lagging behind. More importantly: which brand should I buy when it comes to a NVIDIA card? There are quite a few of them, and I really have no idea which to pick.
Thank you very much for your advices in advance!
- I'd go with the 6600K in your case given your budget doesn't allow you to move up to the 6700K without adversely impacting what you can spend on the GPU and you listed gaming as your highest priority. Additionally, I'd definitely overclock. The Hyper 212 Evo is a solid budget cooler.
- ASRock motherboards are cheap but not nasty. The Z170 Extreme4 would be fine.
- Personally, I only become concerned with brand name if I'm importing a GPU as international warranty policies are quite rare. I'd say ASUS, EVGA, Gigabyte and MSI are the four most popular choices, but if you're buying locally and need to opt for a different brand so as to not encroach beyond your budget, I wouldn't bother hemming and hawing over the choices. I'm not familiar with European hardware prices, but I assume you can accommodate a 1060.
Well you have to decide it.
Do you want bit better colors and viewing angles but laggy movement.
Or do you want bit worse colors and viewing angles but butter smooth movement.
Ban Puncher
Member
You don't need that cooler, go with a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) or be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($63.38 @ Amazon)
Get your ram to at least 2400mhz up to 3000. Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($103.99 @ SuperBiiz)
If you dont want to spend $200 on a case this one is $70ish. They come in all white, all black, black/blue and black/red. Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ SuperBiiz)
All else is good.
Good call on the i5. That PSU is great, I have one. Gigabyte is a good brand, so stick with it. Memory is solid.
As for a case I'm not real versed on what you'll need specifically. A great mid ATX case is the NZXT S340 (Black) is low profile, but it's big.
Skyfireblaze
Member
So I'm facing a very weird CPU Overclocking problem, it seems that my multiplier is suddenly locked to 41 o.o
I'm running a i5 3570k on a ASRock Z77 Pro3 so far on 4.1ghz with a voltage offset of -0.035v stable and now that I have a GTX 1070 I wanted to see how far I can push it, however even if I set the multiplier to 42 or 43 CPU-Z reports the multiplier being 41 at 4100mhz:
Can someone tell me what's going on?
I'm running a i5 3570k on a ASRock Z77 Pro3 so far on 4.1ghz with a voltage offset of -0.035v stable and now that I have a GTX 1070 I wanted to see how far I can push it, however even if I set the multiplier to 42 or 43 CPU-Z reports the multiplier being 41 at 4100mhz:
Can someone tell me what's going on?
Huh. This never happened when I was using an AMD build. Wondering if it's something with the motherboard or some drivers. I've already updated/reset BIOS settings. Seems to happen more often if I finish gaming within a few minutes of trying to turn off the PC.
- Status